Rediscover Blanquette de Veau · ncover the flavors of Bulgarian cuisine.U. 42 The Interview. asadena, California, chef Claud Beltran shares his experiences transitioning from an

make the swap with ingredient substitutions

get inspired by the

cuisine of Bulgaria

discover the science of cooking as an R&D chef

Rediscover Blanquette

de Veau

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features18 Ingredient Substitutions With food allergies becoming more common,

finding substitutions for everyday ingredients can be a challenge for chefs. Here’s where to start.

24 Hybrid Desserts Combining two desserts into one takes pastry

know-how.

30 Research and Development Chef

Chefs with an interest in science can find a rewarding career in R&D.

departments4 President’s Message ACF president Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, talks about different careers

available for chefs.

6 Amuse-Bouche Student news, opportunities and more.

10 Slice of Life Gain insight into a day of a three-month stagier at The French Laundry.

12 Classical V. Modern Discover how to make blanquette de veau two ways.

36 By Degrees Learn how to perfectly prepare broccoli raab.

38 International Flavors Uncover the flavors of Bulgarian cuisine.

42 The Interview Pasadena, California, chef Claud Beltran shares his experiences transitioning from an

engineer to a chef.

46 The Quiz Read this issue? Now test your knowledge.

47 Industry Profile The Flavor Bible authors, Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg,

share their life experience and career advice with us.

sizzleThe American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking

Cover: The classical version of blanquette de veau from page 12.

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PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE career pathways

president’smessage

Career PathwaysBy Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Hello, students,

Nowadays, there are many pathways to many different culinary careers. Culinary schools, apprenticeships or just moving up on the line in a kitchen are the ways most of us have entered the industry and continue to do so. However, there is a wide range of other opportunities for those who are interested in venturing further.

Culinary careers have become diverse. Young cooks are not limited to jobs in a restaurant or hotel kitchen. They can work in research and development, startup tech companies or have a nine-to-five job in university dining and be a part of change happening in college cafeterias across the country.

When starting out in the industry, many of us naturally gravitate toward working in a kitchen, whether at a country club, local restaurant or banquet services,

and that is a great start. You will learn so much about food, flavors, plating and working under pressure. Kitchens are the foundation of your craft. Across the nation, there is a need for young, talented cooks with a strong base in classical skills, and good restaurants are great places to learn. Now is the perfect time to further your hands-on education or to begin your education in the culinary industry.

Don’t know where to start? I suggest that you to take a look at Sizzle’s Jobs of Tomorrow feature in this issue and past issues. The features introduce you to culinary jobs in such areas as sports teams, grocery stores, research and development, or a food distributor chef, like me. The articles provide valuable insight into the type of education, interests and experience you should strive for to work in these fields. The articles are a great resource for you as you continue to grow in the industry.

As a chef, you can truly be anything you want to be. You can be a sports nutritionist or a scientist or a business consultant. In this diverse and growing industry, you could start a new trend or idea. But remember, a strong foundation in correct techniques is important to ensure consistency and credibility in your work while you grow into being the next culinary trendsetter.

There is no right way or wrong way to get into this industry. There is only the right way for you.

Sincerely,

Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC National PresidentAmerican Culinary FederationProduct Specialist Manager/Food Fanatics™ Chef US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia








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amuse-boucheNews & Opportunities

Young Chef MovesSUNY Delhi students shine in competitionMark Garcia, a student at SUNY Delhi, Delhi, New York, and commis Kathryn Eurich, also a student at SUNY Delhi and ACF’s 2015 Student Chef of the Year, won first place at the Chicago ment’or BKB Foundation Young Chef Competition held at Boka. Garcia’s first-place prize was $10,000 and an opportunity to stage at a restaurant of his choice.

The competing chefs were scored on excellence in overall taste, presentation and kitchen organization. Competitors had 2 hours, 35 minutes, to cook and 3 minutes to plate their dishes.

Garcia’s winning dish was Mexican inspired wagyu beef: seared rib-eye steak, braised short rib tostada, black bean puree, petite mushroom tamale, glazed vegetables, avocado-dill crema with mushroom bordelaise.

Chicago chefs Gerard Craft, Niche, Graham Elliot, Graham Elliot Bistro, Richard Rosendale, Rosendale Collective, Giuseppe Tentori, GT Fish

& Oyster, Rick Tramonto, Tramonto Cuisine, and Lee Wolen, Boka, judged the final dishes.

Le Cordon Bleu students place in Discover Duck contestStudents Juliana Rezende from Le Cordon Blue College of Culinary Arts in Los Angeles, Pasadena, California, and Joyce Mac from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Chicago, each received a prize of $500 and a knife set as finalists in Maple Leaf Farms’ annual Discover Duck Recipe Contest. Rezende placed in the competition with her Maple Leaf Farms Sushi with Duck Chicharrones, citrus gastrique and Asian caviar. Mac placed with her Duck Bacon Delight recipe.

This year’s competition theme was “duck refined.” Participants were asked to create a dish that featured duck in a nontraditional way. Recipes were judged on flavor, creativity, accuracy and method.

Michigan Student Chef of the Year honoredCalie Nelson, of Otisville, Michigan, a student at The Culinary Institute

AMUSE-BOUCHE news & opportunities

above: Mark Garcia (left) and Kathryn Eurich (right).left: Calie Nelson

7WWW.ACFCHEFS.ORG www.sizzle-digita l.com

of Michigan at Baker College (CIM), Port Huron, Michigan, won ACF Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association’s 2015 Student Chef of the Year Championship.

Nelson earned the title by competing against eight students from other college culinary programs in Southeastern Michigan, Aug. 11. Each competitor had 60 minutes to prepare two portions of a signature chicken dish and 10 minutes for plating.

“We’re very proud of Calie and how hard she worked to defend the title and bring it back to Baker College,” said Thomas Recinella, CEC, AAC, program director at CIM and executive chef, COURSES Restaurant at CIM Port Huron. “She cooked at a level far beyond her age and performed like a true professional.”

Nelson’s winning dish, “A Summer Trio of Chicken,” featured three variations of chicken. Competitors were judged on technique, sanitation, organization, timing and utilization of food, and the flavor of the food.

HealthHealthy chocolate cakeThe feature article in this issue of Sizzle is on healthy ingredient swaps that chefs and cooks can make to create delicious, healthy dishes for people with food allergies or health problems. Try this healthy gluten-free chocolate cake recipe that uses natural sweeteners. Then, learn more about healthy, allergy-free cooking in “Ingredient Substitutions” on page 18.

Gluten-free chocolate cakeBy Rich Rosendale, CMC, co-star, “Recipe Rehab” on CBS.

Cook time: 35 minutesPrep time: 20 minutes.Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:1 medium avocado, ripe1 ½ medium bananas, very ripe (important)¼ cup + 2 T. honey 1T. maple syrup1/4 cup coconut oil, melted1 t. vanilla extract1 cup unsweetened vanilla almond milk

+ 1 T. white vinegarDry Ingredients½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder½ cup oat flour (ground from gluten-

free oats)½ cup gluten-free bread flour

(Anson Mills) 2 T. coconut flour (Anson Mills)¼ t. sea salt2 t. baking powder2 t. baking soda

Icing1 medium avocado, ripe1⁄3 cup water (add more if needed)3 T. light agave nectar2 T. cocoa

Garnish30 raspberries

Method:Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray 9-inch round cake pan with nonstick Teflon; set aside. Mash avocado and bananas in medium mixing bowl. Add honey, maple syrup, melted coconut oil and vanilla extract. Mix until well-incorporated. Mix almond milk and white vinegar; add to avocado/banana mixture. Sift dry ingredients together. Combine liquid ingredient mixture with dry mixture; whisk vigorously. Pour in pan. Bake 35 minutes or until toothpick comes out dry; rest 1 hour. (continued on page 8)

8 Sizzle WINTER 15

AMUSE-BOUCHE news & opportunities

The university has collaborated with medical schools across the U.S., including Tulane University School of Medicine, Warren Alpert Medical School of Brown University and the University of Colorado School of Medicine, in an effort to bridge the gap between food, nutrition and medicine. To learn more and view resources, visit www.jwu.edu/eathealthy.

Read ThisACF’s blog is unveiledThe American Culinary Federation has launched its blog for chefs, students and foodservice professionals. We Are Chefs publishes in-depth features on food and culinary workplace topics, innovative chefs in all segments of the foodservice industry and food influencers, as well as reports on culinary news and opportunities, ACF member accomplishments and more. To view, read, comment and follow, visit www.wearechefs.com.

Place plate on top of cake pan, gently flip over to release cake. Repeat with second plate so cake is right-side up.

For icingPlace ingredients in blender; puree. Add water until desired texture achieved. Spread icing on cake. Garnish with raspberries.

JWU launches health initiativeJohnson & Wales University ( JWU), Providence, Rhode Island, has unveiled Changing The Way The World Eats, a public awareness initiative to educate consumers on healthy eating. Led by Jonathan Poyourow, assistant professor at JWU Providence’s culinary nutrition department, JWU faculty experts will provide healthy eating education through a new website that features a blog, tips and recipes.

In addition, Poyourow will host a TV segment on NBC10’s “Cooking with Class” that airs in Southern New England.

http://www.jwu.edu/eathealthy

http://www.wearechefs.com


Food and travel on a budgetEnjoy traveling for food, but have limited funds? The Daily Meal recently released its “Top 10 Food Cities for Your Wallet” for the cost-conscience. Cities considered are off the beaten path, but have a lot to offer food-wise. Criteria used to determine these cities were number of restaurants, range of cuisines and median cost of a three-course meal for two.

Top 10 cities:10. Providence, Rhode Island9. Madison, Wisconsin8. New Orleans7. Jersey City, New Jersey6. Austin, Texas5. Oakland, California4. Denver3. Orlando, Florida2. Salt Lake City1. Huntington Beach, California

To view suggested restaurants in these areas and exact price points for a meal, visit The Daily Meal.

CongratsACFEF scholarships awardedThe American Culinary Federation Education Foundation (ACFEF) and the American Academy of Chefs in collaboration with Chaîne des Rôtisseurs awarded five postsecondary scholarships of $1,000 to be used toward expenses such as tuition, books and class fees. ACFEF awards postsecondary scholarships in spring and fall. Applications are available at www.acfchefs.org/scholarships.

Students awarded: � Kara Cattion, University of

Maryland Eastern Shore, Princess Anne, Maryland.

� Catherine Lopez, The Art Institute of San Antonio.

� Arti Louisiana, Colorado Mesa University, Grand Junction, Colorado.

� Sarah Mayer, Guilford Technical Community College, Jamestown, North Carolina.

� Dustin Wesley, Louisiana Culinary Institute, Baton Rouge, Louisiana.

CorrectionIn the fall issue, Sizzle incorrectly reported 2015 Student Chef of the Year winner Kathryn Eurich’s

medal level and work location. Eurich received

a gold medal in the national 2015 ACF Student Chef of the Year competition and was a line cook at Laconia Inn, Warwick, New York.

above: Huntington Beach, California

http://www.thedailymeal.com/travel/top-10-food-cities-your-wallet-slideshow

http://www.acfchefs.org/scholarships

http://www.acfchefs.org/scholarships

10 Sizzle WINTER 15

SLICE OF LIFE lyn wells

slice of lifeLyn Wells

age25

educationAssociate degree in Culinary Arts, 2011, and bachelor’s degree in Hospitality Management, 2014, from Utah Valley University, Orem, Utah.

why I chose to compete in ment’or BKBI felt that the ment’or BKB Young Chefs Competition series could open doors for me that I never thought possible. I received first place in the 2014 Los Angeles Young Chef Competition and received a three-month stage at a restaurant of my choice.

workI am currently completing a three-month stage at The French Laundry, Yountville, California. I rotate through three teams: commis, a.m. service and p.m. service.

most interesting lesson learned during my externshipMy biggest take-away has been to have a sense of urgency, work efficiently and be organized.

career plansI want to continue to learn every day. For the next couple of years, I want to work for chefs who are great mentors.


5:50 a.m.I walk out of the Bordeaux House in Yountville, where I stay, and across the gravel to the dry storage area where I select my chef jacket for the day. I roll up my sleeves, walk through the kitchen and tell everyone good morning.

6:00 a.m.I put on my blue apron and two side towels and begin to set up the kitchen, which has to be finished by 6:15 a.m. every day. Setup includes: weighing out tapioca pearls, oven on, trash bins, filling salt and pepper, hanging the flag and making menu copies to hang on the wall.

6:15 a.m.We have a group meeting to go over our projects for the day and assign staff meal tasks. My morning projects include: egg terrine, egg yolk gnocchi, juices—butternut and red pepper—pistachio date farce and cutting mirepoix for veal and chicken

stocks. The goal is to have as many of these items done

as possible before the produce arrives.

My first move of the day it to pull off and strain the bouillons that are on the stove.

6:45 a.m.I start to work

on my egg terrine. I put a

label on the oven and measure out

my mise en place. While I wait for the

terrine to cook, I start

to work on my pistachio farce and egg yolk gnocchi.

7:30 a.m.Egg terrine is finished. I mix the pistachio farce and place it the garde manger fridge.

8:30 a.m.I work on dough for the gnocchi until produce arrives.

9:00 a.m.The deliveries for the day start to arrive: produce, dry goods and farm products. I have to organize, label and date everything and deliver each item to the station that ordered it.

11:30 a.m.I work on the staff meal. Today I am in charge of the salad. I use vegetables from The French Laundry’s farm such as tomatoes, cucumbers and radishes. I chop romaine lettuce and make a simple vinaigrette.

11:55 a.m.Staff meal is put up. I make a plate, eat quickly and go back to work.

12:15 p.m.I move everything to the back kitchen. I portion out the gnocchi and kit them up for the meat station.

1:30 p.m.I start to cut the mirepoix for the stocks that are going to be put up tomorrow morning.

2:30p.m.I start work on final projects, one of which is torching peppers that are then cleaned and preserved in pickling liquid.

4:30 p.m.I do an inventory check. I pull everything out of its box and write down how much inventory there is and consolidate.

5:30 p.m.I start the cleanup process in the back kitchen. Scrub out all the fridges, tables and sinks, wash the walls, sweep and mop the floor and lay the rugs down.

7:00 p.m.I shake out and head home for the night.

12 Sizzle WINTER 15

methods and presentation. “Look at the classic plate and determine what the important points are,” Crull says. “For example, you don’t want to use a really heavy sauce in a dish that requires a light sauce and vice versa.” Cooking methods should resemble the traditional version, as well, he says.

Mastering the dish means that students will master skills they can use in several applications: hot food, cold food, appetizers and entrees. “The techniques used to create this dish are versatile,” Crull says.

This was the first time that Natalie Heinrich, first-year apprentice at the University Club of Missouri, had made the dish, and she struggled to get the sauce and plating correct. “I had to make this dish twice,” she says. But in the process, she learned how to fix a broken sauce, how to best plate a dish such as this and that practice makes perfect.

“I think classical versions of dishes are important for students to master,” she says. “I learned a lot cooking this dish, and the techniques will help young cooks be successful in this industry.”

White sauce, white meat and white vegetables make up blanquette de veau. The dish,

veal in cream sauce, is a perennial favorite of the French and was a popular dish of the bourgeois—France’s middle class that came to power in the late 1700s. It is a mix of haute and peasant cuisines.

The stark white dish is achieved by cooking everything in broth to ensure that the meat and vegetables do not brown. Each component is cooked separately and then brought together at the end to create a rich stew. It is traditionally served with rice, and sometimes, potatoes. A blanquette recipe in Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire suggests serving it with noodles, and another recipe calls for celery and endive. Recipes have included carrots, but some disagree as this adds color to the traditionally white dish.

When modern chefs recreate the dish, they stay close to traditional methods and ingredients. Reed Crull, dining room sous chef, University Club of Missouri, Columbia, Missouri, began working on the modern dish by considering what was in season, cooking

CLASSICAL V. MODERN blanquette de veau

classical v. modern

top: Reed Crullbottom: Natalie Heinrich


BLANQUETTE DE VEAU1. Honshimeji mushrooms fill the extra space around

the plate. 2. Celery root puree references an Escoffier

blanquette de veau recipe. 3. Puff pastry provides

a division between the celery root puree and the

crepinettes. 4. Veal and sweetbreads crepinettes, glazed

in sauce, are the updated version of the veal stew meat

typically used in this dish. 5. White pearl onions are

carried over from the classical recipe and and continue

to contribute to the classic white look. 6. The pièce

de résistance of the dish is the orange baby carrots.

Included in certain recipes, some refused to use carrots

because it brought color to the traditionally white dish.

modernBLANQUETTE DE VEAU1. A creamy velouté sauce with mushrooms coats the

veal and white onions, which are cooked in broth to

prevent the meat and vegetables from browning.

2. A fleuron garnish is ideal for this dish and ties it

to the modern version. 3. Blanquette de veau is

traditionally served over rice, though some recipes use

potatoes or noodles.

classical

14 Sizzle WINTER 15

Blanquette de veauYield: 6 servingsVeal Ingredients:3 lbs. veal stew meat, cut in 2-inch

cubesCold water5-6 cups cold white veal stock1 large onion studded with 1 clove1 large carrot, peeled, quarteredHerb bouquet, in cheesecloth:

8 parsley stems (reserve leaves for garnish) ½ bay leaf ½ t. thyme 2 medium celery stalks

Salt, to taste

Method:1. Place veal in large pot; cover in

cold water by 2 inches. Simmer for 2 minutes. Drain veal; wash with cold water to remove scum. Wash out pot. Return veal to pot.

2. Add stock, covering veal about ½ inch. Bring slowly to a simmer; skim, as necessary, for several minutes.

3. Add onion, carrot and herb bouquet; taste, salt lightly, if necessary. Cover partially; simmer for 1¼-1½ hours or until veal is tender when pierced with fork.

4. Pour out into colander set over

bowl. Rinse pot. Return meat, removing any bones.

OnionsIngredients:18-24 white pearl onions½ cup veal stock¼ t. salt1 T. butter

Method:1. While blanquette is simmering,

pierce cross in root ends of onions. Simmer for 30-40 minutes in small covered saucepan with veal stock, salt and butter.

2. Arrange cooked onions over veal in pot.

Sauce velouté with mushroomsIngredients:4 T. butter5 T. flour3¼ cups veal stock18-24 mushroom caps, slicedSaltWhite pepper2 T. lemon juice2 T. cream or stockCream and egg yolk enrichment:

3 egg yolks ½ cup whipping cream

Method:1. In saucepan, melt butter. Add

flour; stir over low heat 2 minutes, until foams together.

2. Remove from heat; add veal stock, beating vigorously with wire whip. Return sauce to heat; bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Simmer for 10 minutes, frequently skim film. Fold in mushroom caps; simmer for additional 10 minutes, skimming.

3. Add salt, pepper and lemon juice, to taste.

4. Pour sauce and mushrooms over veal. Film top of sauce with 2 T. cream or stock to prevent skin forming.

Cream and egg yolk enrichmentMethod:1. In bowl, blend egg yolks and

cream with wire whip.2. Beat in, by spoonfuls, 1 cup hot

velouté sauce.3. Pour mixture into pot with veal;

tilt pot to blend rest of sauce with egg yolk mixture. Simmer until thick.

FleuronIngredients:6 oz. frozen puff pastry, thawed

FlourEgg wash (1 egg yolk, 1 T. water)

Method:1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Roll pastry

out thin.2. Cut out disc with pastry cutter;

with pastry cutter, cut away one side to form crescent shape.

3. Grease sheet pan. Place crescents on pan; brush with egg wash. Using tip of knife, score crisscross pattern on each. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden. Reserve warm for service.

To plate:1. In shallow bowl, fill halfway from

rim with veal and sauce.2. Place metal cylinder in middle

of plate; fill with rice or potatoes.3. Garnish with chopped parsley

and fleuron.

classicalNatalie Heinrich didn’t spend her childhood attending a traditional school system. She was homeschooled until her senior year, when she attended Hickman High School, Columbia. She took a culinary arts class through the career center and discovered she wanted to make it a career.

Cooking has always been a part of Heinrich’s life.

Since she was young, she has enjoyed creating things that people love when cooking with her mother and grandmother. Her first experience with world cuisines in her high school cooking class solidified her love of the industry. “The dish that we chose was posole, a Mexican soup with pork and hominy. It was fun, and it opened my mind to leadership and trust of my partner.”

When students make blanquette de veau, Heinrich advises that it is important to remember to let the roux and stock cook long enough. “My first sauce broke, because I didn’t give the gluten enough time to expand,” she says. “And add the cream and egg yolk enrichment at the very end, otherwise, it will curdle.”

Mastering the cream and egg yolk enrichment is a versatile

skill for culinary students to possess. “Students can use this technique when making Bavarian cream, which requires tempering the eggs the same way,” Heinrich says.

She was pleasantly surprised by the creaminess of the dish. If she was serving it at her own restaurant, Heinrich says she wouldn’t change a thing. “It is a simple, classic dish that people will enjoy.”


16 Sizzle WINTER 15

modernNine years ago, Reed Crull started as a dishwasher at the University Club of Missouri. It was just a job, he says, but then, he got hooked. “I liked the idea of cooking.” He enjoyed the passion and sense of urgency that is required to work in a kitchen.

After several months of washing dishes, he started doing banquet prep: peeling vegetables, deveining shrimp and making dressings. He kept moving up, from banquet vegetable station to bread baking, and then enrolled in an apprenticeship program run by Daniel Pliska, CEC, AAC, the club’s executive chef/assistant general manager. Soon, Crull was moving

to different stations, learning the competencies for each position.

“The apprenticeship was great,” says Crull. “It was more than going to class, reading and making a recipe one time.” School gave him the foundation—the program partners with Johnson County Community College, Overland Park, Kansas, for the required classroom instruction—but he was able to build on the fundamentals in the apprenticeship. “I like to think of our kitchen as a learning kitchen,” he says. “A cook is able to learn from just about anybody.”

Blanquette de veau was one of the first dishes he learned a year into his apprenticeship. The chef who was

training him took the time to teach Crull how to braise properly, finish the sauce and adjust the seasoning.

For the modern version, instead of a heavy sauce, he used a classic technique, glaçage, for saucing the meat. Crull created a rich and flavorful sauce, and then gently coated the meat to keep the sauce from overpowering the components.

He included harder-to-work-with ingredients in this dish, such as sweetbreads and caulfat, or “lace” fat, which require extra work. Before using both ingredients, it is important to soak them. “Soak the caulfat until it is white to remove the blood,” he says. Further advice is to take care in

handling, to not tear it. The fat should be laid out on parchment paper to dry after soaking and the thick parts cut off.

Incorporating sweetbreads shows skill and adds value to the plate, Crull says. Sweetbreads should be soaked in salt water for about an hour before using, then, poached and peeled. “A good sauce is required when bringing sweetbreads to the plate,” he adds. “The sauce should be sweet or sour and salty to work with the protein’s slightly iron taste.”

Crull’s career goal is to work toward an executive chef position. He has considered owning a restaurant, but doesn’t believe he will be able to enjoy his family if that were the case.

Modern blanquette de veauYield: 2 servingsVeal and sweetbreads crepinettesIngredients:1 t. fresh thyme1 t. fresh parsley1 shallot, julienned8 oz. white wine, divided6 oz. veal sirloin2 oz. pork fatSalt and white pepper, to taste1 qt. water1 oz. lemon juice6 oz. mirepoix, medium dice1 bay leaf2 peppercorns1 sprig thyme1 sprig parsleySalt4 oz. veal sweetbreads, divided1 caulfat, 6 x 6-inches, soaked in salt

water 1 hour

Method:1. Make marinade with thyme,

parsley, shallot and 2 oz. white wine. Add sirloin; marinate overnight. Grind.

2. Coarsely grind pork fat.3. Mix ground sirloin and fat

together for 5 minutes; add salt and white pepper.

4. Make court-bouillon with water, 6 oz. white wine, lemon

juice, mirepoix, bay leaf, peppercorns, thyme, parsley and salt. Poach sweetbreads in court-bouillon, remove, peel; medium dice. Reserve court-bouillon for plating.

5. Chill poached sweetbreads. Reserve 2 oz. for garnish; mix 2 oz. with forcemeat. Form six 1 x 1-inch crepinettes; partially freeze.

6. Wrap in caulfat and trim.

Mixed vegetablesIngredients:6 small bunches honshimeji

mushrooms4 whole baby carrots6 whole pearl onions4 oz. water1½ sticks butter

Method:1. Blanch vegetables; cool.

Reserve. At service, make beurre fondue with water and butter. Add vegetables to reheat.

Celery pureeIngredients:8 oz. celery root16 oz. milk16 oz. water4 oz. creamSalt and white pepper, to taste

Method:1. Large dice celery root.2. In small saucepot, add

milk, water and celery root. Cover with parchment paper cartouche; cook until tender.

3. Strain cooking liquid; discard. Puree celery root and cream in blender until smooth. Add salt and white pepper, to taste. Hold warm.

Puff pastryIngredients:2 5 x 2-inch sheets puff pastryEgg wash (1 egg yolk, 1 T. water)

Method:1. Brush puff pastry with egg wash;

press between two half sheet trays and Silpats. Bake at 300ºF for 15 minutes, or until light golden-brown and flaky.

SauceIngredients:12 oz. white veal stock, divided8 oz. butter, melted8 oz. flour3 oz. cream2 egg yolks2 oz. creme fraicheSalt and white pepper, to tasteParsley, finely chopped

Method:1. Fill small saute pan with 8 oz.

veal stock; bring to 170°F.2. Poach veal crepinettes 5

minutes. Remove caulfat. Reserve veal crepinettes in small amount of hot poaching liquid.

3. Reduce 4 oz. veal stock by half. With butter and flour, make 2 T. roux. Mix in reduced veal stock; simmer.

4. Make liaison with cream and egg yolk; add to reduced stock. Add creme fraiche to sauce until desired consistency. Season, to taste. Garnish with parsley.

To plate:1. Spread celery root puree on plate.2. Place puff pastry on puree.3. Set 3 crepinettes on top; sauce.4. Reheat 2 oz. sweetbreads in

court-bouillon. Arrange 4 pieces around plate; sauce.

5. Place 3 pearl onions off-center at top and sides around center of plate.

6. Add mushrooms to fill empty space.

7. Lay 2 baby carrots across dish, off-center.


These days, it seems that everyone has special dietary needs. From gluten and lactose allergies to eating more “cleanly,” consumers are demanding that the foodservice world becomes more customizable. // By Amelia Levin

Ingredient Substitutions

W hat started as life-threatening peanut and shellfish allergies has evolved to other worrisome reactions from eating tree nuts, soy and eggs. Then there are those who either refrain from dairy and gluten out of more serious

conditions such as celiac disease or for diet-related reasons to banish bloat, eat more “cleanly” or go the vegan route.

Whether by need or by choice, these days, consumers expect more options when it comes to food offerings outside the home.

Anthony Stewart of Pritikin Longevity Center, Miami, trains his staff to treat all special requests as life-or-death situations, because the truth is, you don’t always know. “It’s not worth the risk,” says Stewart, executive chef of the center, which focuses on health and nutrition for customers suffering from or at risk of developing deadly diseases such as diabetes and heart conditions. “Once a dietary request comes in, we prepare the food separately and make everything from scratch, so we know exactly what is in our food.”

All this has made it more important than ever for chefs and food producers—from grocery stores to fast-casual chains and fine-dining restaurants—to arm themselves with the best information, techniques and tricks to develop delicious meals within the boundaries of dietary needs and requests. Knowing great ingredient substitutions is the first step.

Photos of everyday dishes for families from Cooking For Your Gluten-Free Teen: Everyday Foods the Whole Family will Love by Carlyn Berghoff and Sarah Berghoff McClure. Photos courtesy of Carlyn Berghoff.

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meat, fish and vegetables to add flavor without sodium.

“Our bodies need some salt and sugar, and it will take from the natural sources and let go of the excess as long as there is no added refined salt and sugar,” says Stewart. Some kinds of produce have more natural salt than others, making them great stand-ins for sodium, he says. Celery blended into hummus with roasted garbanzo beans, lemon and garlic makes hummus that is just as delicious as one loaded with salt. And citrus fruits such as lemon, lime, grapefruit and orange add natural salt and brightness to salads, fish and other dishes.

Rich Rosendale and Vikki Krinsky, co-stars of the popular CBS show “Recipe Rehab,” follow similar protocols.

In addition to serious health concerns, “salt is the cause of a lot of puffiness and uncomfortable water retention,” says Krinsky, a private chef for many in the acting community. Besides using citrus, she uses natural amino acids in place of soy sauce and other refined salts.

Fresh vegetables in colorful combinations with fresh herbs and exotic spices also add natural flavor to dishes, says Rosendale, a certified master chef who had to “retrain” his palate after years of cooking in fine-dining restaurants focused on classic salt/butter/cream-heavy French cuisine.

“You don’t have to use a stick of butter, you can easily swap out different ingredients and still maintain the integrity of the traditional dish,” he says.

healthy subsMore consumers these days define a healthier way of life as eating more “cleanly.” This means more fruits, vegetables, grains and proteins in their whole form versus processed foods that can contain extra salt, refined sugars and chemical-laden additives.

“We’re going back to basics and using more natural ingredients rather than pre-prepped products,” says Lisa Falcone, RD, CEC, CP-FS, operations support director for Aramark’s West Coast K-12 and healthcare operations. Paying attention to sodium and sugar levels remains important for all customers, but primarily for patients with high blood pressure, digestive issues and diabetes, and as preventative care for children.

The good news about cooking from scratch, Falcone says, is that you have more control over the ingredients or substitutions you want to make.

At Pritikin, Stewart focuses on making things delicious by combining different flavors in their most natural form. He easily swaps refined sugars for naturally sweet fruits and vegetables. He adds roasted butternut squash to a gluten-free, nut-crusted pumpkin pie to add sweetness without sugar. Roasted sweet potatoes and blueberries are mixed in with unsweetened cocoa powder for a healthier chocolate mousse.

The Jamaican native also adds a touch of apple juice concentrate to a salt-free jerk sauce with fresh peppers, herbs and spices that he uses to marinate tofu,


vegan/vegetarian ideasMore diners are looking to reduce or cut meat completely from their diets. Others are more selective, opting for grass-fed and pastured proteins and wild-caught or sustainably farmed fish. And a growing group of vegans has excluded dairy and eggs from their diets.

“We use applesauce, avocados and coconut oil in place of shortening, oil and butter, which adds natural moisture and is healthier,” says Rosendale. Coconut also adds a natural sheen to fudge sauce and chocolate, and it gives a “luxurious texture” to soft-scrambled eggs over low heat, he adds.

Krinsky says that soaked and blended cashews make an excellent replacement for heavy cream and milk, even cheese and cream cheese, in both sweet and savory dishes.

When it comes to cooking meat-free, Krinsky looks to umami-rich vegetables such as mushrooms and cauliflower as great stand-ins for grilled meats and steak.

Stewart cuts down on protein in meatloaf and burgers by adding equal parts chopped mirepoix vegetables to lean ground beef and chicken.

allergen add-insEggs complicate matters for two types of individuals: vegans and those with an allergy to eggs, considered one of the Big-8 allergens. Eggs can be especially concerning at schools. To recreate the same texture, taste and utility, Margie Saidel, vice president of nutrition services for K-12 at Compass Group North America, Charlotte, North Carolina, uses silken tofu in scrambled dishes.

However, some students are allergic to soy. Krinksy recreates the binding property

opposite from top: 1. Anthony Stewart is executive chef of Pritikin Longevity Center in Miami. Courtesy of Pritikin Longevity Center 2. Lisa Falcone, a registered dietician and chef, is operations support director for Aramark’s West Coast K-12 and healthcare operations.left: Rich Rosendale, co-star of CBS' "Recipe Rehab" with chef Vikki Krinskyright: Vikki Krinsky, co-star on "Recipe Rehab." Photos courtesy of Core PR.

top substitution foods at-a-glance � Chia or ground flax seeds + water = eggs � Soaked, blended cashews = cream � Nutritional yeast = ground parmesan � Unsweetened applesauce and coconut

oil = baking butter � Overripe bananas, dates, prunes,

sweet potatoes or butternut squash = refined sugar and texture in baking

� Avocados = healthy binder for mousse and brownies

� Celery, mushrooms or citrus = salt � Nuts and nut flours = gluten-free

baking ingredients � Quinoa or puffed rice cereal = gluten-

free breading � Cornstarch or arrowroot flour + water = roux � Mashed potatoes = soup thickener

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of eggs by mixing chia seeds with water and letting them sit for several hours to thicken. The mixture can be used in place of a scrambled egg dish or in puddings and mousses, and even in baked items.

Instead of pesto, some chefs make pistou, a blend of fresh herbs, garlic, acid and oil without pine nuts or walnuts. “Many of our schools use sunflower seeds to replace nuts and peanuts, which work well,” says Seidel. “We find other flavors and textures to add interest, like crunchy baked tortilla strips and roasted sunflower seeds on salads and homemade granola without nuts.”

Kyle Fouch, a former chef at Valparaiso University, Valparaiso, Indiana, who became an allergen consultant after discovering his child had severe allergies, takes a backward approach when working with allergen-friendly ingredient substitutions.

“I look at dishes and recipes and think about what can be removed or substituted to be allergen-free,” says Fouch. He looks at ethnic dishes first, because they are packed with flavor but offer easy opportunities for swaps.

For his standard egg replacer, Fouch mixes a little water with ground flax seeds or sometimes tapioca or potato starch to make an absorbent, binding paste. Toasted chickpeas provide peanut-like flavor to peanut sauces in Asian cooking.

When it comes to researching processed foods, one never really knows if a product could be problematic because the risk of cross-contamination at facilities is high. But cooking from

scratch doesn’t have to be hard. “You can easily take a No. 8 can of tomatoes and add herbs and spices to make your own marinara sauce,” says Fouch.

gluten-free swapsThe degree of seriousness when it comes to gluten allergies ranges from low-carb dieters looking to lighten up their regime and those with some gluten sensitivities to those with celiac disease resulting in extreme gastrointestinal problems, rash and other harmful reactions that can last for weeks and cause long-term damage.

As such, more chefs are finding they need to understand how to make certain gluten substitutions considering the growing concern. One way is to simply eliminate processed items such as bottled condiments, sauces and dressings that contain gluten in hidden ways. Even processed meats and cheeses can contain gluten and other allergens.

Though many restaurants use gluten-free pizza and other pre-made products, gluten can still sneak into from-scratch dishes. “Roux is the basis for a lot of ethnic dishes,” Fouch says.

The deadly combination of flour and butter for some can be swapped for cornstarch or arrowroot and water. Use mashed potatoes to thicken soups. But watch out for tapioca in a slurry. It can create a stringy texture similar to the not-so-lovely bodily fluid from our noses, Fouch says.

Carlyn Berghoff, owner of the iconic, century-old Berghoff Restaurant in Chicago, began to make adaptations at home and then at the restaurant after her daughter


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was diagnosed with celiac disease. She even co-authored a cookbook with her daughter Sarah Berghoff McClure, Cooking For Your Gluten-Free Teen: Everyday Foods Your Family Will Love (Andrew McMeel Publishing, 2013) And she has completed the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness GREAT Kitchens/GREAT Schools program, a comprehensive training program for foodservice professionals looking to boost their knowledge of gluten-free cooking and certify their businesses as safe.

Instead of a roux, the basis for a lot of German cooking and gravies, Berghoff uses slurries made with cornstarch or, in some cases, arrowroot, for her sauerbraten or marinated roast sirloin with a thickened sweet and sour sauce.

Beurre blancs are also safe, because butter is the only thickener at the end of the cooking process. For breading substitutions, Berghoff has used quinoa and puffed rice cereal to coat schnitzel and fish sticks that are baked instead of pan-fried.

“Make sure there is a resting process before you bake,” says Berghoff, who lets the protein sit for a few minutes after breading to make sure the cereal adheres and to prevent a soggy crust.

Gluten-free baking also requires this “resting” process. Just as yeast needs to proof, gluten-free flours and other ingredients for brownies, cookies and cakes also need to sit before baking to “activate.”

Nuts, ground or as a flour, make excellent stand-ins for crisps, crusts and other baking essentials. But the potential allergens need to be communicated to the guest.

However, corn, once considered one of the best gluten-free replacements, could potentially now be labeled as another allergen as we consume more processed foods made with corn and corn byproduct. This knocks that cornstarch slurry out of the game.

The best thing chefs and operators can do amidst all the information and confusion is to read up on everything they can, train staff and managers thoroughly, and keep all lines of communication open, says Berghoff.

But most important is to pick your battles when it comes to which allergens and intolerances you’re going to tackle, and what you’ll substitute or not substitute. And then be clear to your customer about the path you’ve taken.

Amelia Levin is an award-winning food industry writer, certified chef and cookbook author. Her work has appeared in a variety of restaurant industry trade magazines as well as in the Chicago Tribune, Health and Cooking Light magazines.

opposite from top: 1. This cookbook was created as a resource for parents whose children suffer from celiac disease. 2. Carlyn Berghoff, chef/owner of Berghoff Catering & Restaurant Group in Chicago.above: Glazed, baked doughnuts from Cooking for Your Gluten-Free Teen. Photos courtesy of Carlyn Berghoff.

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by Rob Benes

Hybrid desserts require experience to master, but can result in flavorful combinations and pleasing textures.

Hybrid DessertsHybrid DessertsHybrid DessertsHybrid Desserts

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with the best components of each in a unique combination.”

do’s and don’tsCombining two desserts does not give one liberty to throw ingredients together. When done properly, a marriage of two different flavors and textures are achieved that is appealing and interesting.

“It’s difficult to combine two or more desserts in one, and the appearance is oftentimes strange and not appealing to customers,” says Sebastien Cannone, MOF, co-founder/academic dean for faculty and programs, The French Pastry School, Chicago.

“If you misapply ingredients and techniques when combining two desserts, you’ll end up with a Franken dessert,” says Lynch. “Instead of the dessert being recognizable, bringing out the best or complementing each other, you end up with something that loses its perspective and relevance.”

simple, but sweetHybrid desserts can be simple in design, for example, the Panini Gelato, a panini-pressed Hawaiian roll filled with gelato made at Freddo in Miami Beach, Florida. “The combination of warm, sweet bread and cold gelato provides contrasting temperatures,” says Jimena Duran, owner, “which people find both interesting and confusing to eat.”

A slit is made in a roll, gelato is stuffed inside and the roll is flash-pressed. The panini press has a form that fits over

Debuting in 2013, the Cronut® takes credit for the current trend to find the next big

hybrid. The croissant/doughnut pastry, invented by pastry chef Dominique Ansel and trademarked by his bakery in New York, is a laminated dough fried in grapeseed oil that is then sugared, filled and glazed. Patrons start lining up an hour before the bakery opens, and there is a two-Cronut® limit per customer.

A combo of cake and lollipop, the cake pop, which debuted in 2006, can be looked on as the grandfather of hybrid desserts. Though it has faded from menus, it is still popular at wedding showers and birthday parties.

“Hybrid desserts are a buy one, get one,” says Paul Lynch, executive chef, FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar, Bloomington, Minnesota. “Two desserts that have high appeal are paired together to end up with one dessert


additional crisp when deep-fried. She pipes gelato into cooled shells, dips them in chocolate, garnishes, and puts them into a blast chiller until service.

She made three unique Gelonis for a recent fundraiser: roasted banana gelato dipped in Askinosie dark chocolate and sprinkled with toasted coconut salt; raspberry gelato dipped in a Japanese matcha with Askinosie white chocolate; and avocado/lychee gelato dipped in Askinosie milk chocolate sprinkled with Kampot pepper (which has a floral essence with a peppery bite). A serving was one of each Geloni garnished with frozen raspberries pearls.

have your cake and pieLynch admits he’s a pie guy. His wife is cake lover. So, on a whim, to please both, he made an apple pie spice cake. It was so good that it made it to his restaurant’s menu.

the roll so that it’s not flattened like a sandwich. Instead, it warms the roll and seals it to keep in the gelato.

The original recipe calls for peanut butter gelato or soft nougat, which is neutral in flavor and complements the bread, but guests can choose any type of gelato, with dulce de leche being most popular. When the roll is plated, it’s dusted with powdered sugar, cut on a bias and garnished with peanut butter crunch sauce on one side and forest berry sauce on the other.

Pastaria in St. Louis is an Italian restaurant that generally features traditional Italian desserts. “Not all desserts need to be homey or homespun, so there’s room for experimentation without going overboard,” says Anne Croy, pastry chef. Her hybrid dessert is the Geloni, which is a combination of gelato and a cannoli.

Cannoli shells are usually made with all-purpose flour, but Croy uses a blend of wheat, almond and rice flours to give the shells a nutty taste and provide

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previous spread and opposite page: The Cronut® is a croissant/doughnut pastry invented by pastry chef Dominique Ansel. Photos by Thomas Schauer.left: Sebastien Cannone, MOF, co-founder/academic dean for faculty and programs, The French Pastry School, Chicago.right: To make a Geloni, gelato is piped into a cannoli shell, dipped in chocolate and then stored in a blast chiller.

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compote, which makes the dessert approachable,” Lynch says.

a classic revisitedPeople might think of baked Alaska as something their grandparents used to eat: a dessert consisting of ice cream and sponge cake topped with browned meringue. Jeremy Intille, pastry chef, The Original Dinerant, Portland, Oregon, modernized it as the Spumaska.

Using housemade airy semifreddo, blush Swiss meringue and Amarena cherries, Intille starts by piping a few large mounds of meringue on a plate and spreading the meringue with the back of a spoon to make unique patterns of dips and mounds. The meringue is then toasted with a torch.

For the spumoni part of the dish, instead of a sliced ice cream, it’s a dome. The semifreddo spumoni has three layers of cherry, pistachio and white chocolate vanilla in a half-sphere mold placed in a spot where a meringue dip is formed. A few cherries are added and cherry juice drizzled on the meringue.

hybrid adult beverages“You need to keep the interest of guests, and hybrid adult dessert beverages is one way to do that,” says Andy Wild, chef/owner, Wild About Food & Drink, Calistoga, California.

He made a Belgian hot apple cider for the California Milk Marketing Board that tastes like a combination of warm apple cider and a slice of apple pie. The

He starts by making a traditional 9-inch apple pie using Haralson apples, which are an iconic Northern apple preferred for baking and cooking in Minnesota. The apple holds its texture and has a nice tart/sweet balance that gives it a distinct forward apple flavor. Next, he makes a classic spice cake batter, similar to carrot cake. A 10-inch cake pan is filled one-third with cake batter, and the baked apple pie is placed on top. More cake batter covers the pie, and it’s baked in a hot oven.

“All things in the center of cake are the last things to bake, so the crust and apples may warm up, but they do not cook a second time,” Lynch says. “It’s almost like the pie gets preserved.”

When the cake is sliced, you see it surrounding the pie, which holds its own identity. The spice cake and tender apples complement each other, and the piecrust adds a textural component. “It’s like eating an upside-down cake or a cake with a fruit

above: Baked Alaska is reinvented as the Spumaska, with an airy semifreddo, blush Swiss meringue and Amarena cherries.opposite from left: 1. Layers of ladyfingers and mascarpone topped with a beer reduction and sabayon make the Biramisu. 2. The Belgian hot apple cider tastes like a combination of warm apple cider and a slice of apple pie.

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dessert has vanilla ice cream, green apple lambic beer and Calvados (apple brandy). The alcohol ingredients can be switched to a cherry lambic beer and Kirschwasser (cherry brandy).

Two scoops of vanilla ice cream are put in a glass, a flaming shot of Calvados is poured over and beer is added to extinguish the flame. A foaming cascade forms on top, which mimics the head on a beer. “Just because you’re being taught to cook a recipe one way does not mean it’s the only way to cook it,” says Wild. “There are 10,000 chefs making the same recipe 10,000 different ways.”

Cristobal Lopez, executive chef, Portobello, Downtown Disney, Orlando, Florida, combines beer and tiramisu for the Biramisu.

A beer reduction is made by combining sugar with porter beer and reducing 48 ounces of the beer by half. “It’s important to use a darker and flavorful

beer, because if an IPA is used, a bitter flavor would be achieved from the reduction, and a light beer would not provide the intense and rich flavor needed in a tiramisu flavor profile,” explains Lopez.

Sabayon, a French version of a foamy Italian custard, is made by whisking eggs and sugar over gently boiling water until the eggs thicken but do not scramble. To assemble, a pint glass is layered with ladyfingers that have been cut in circles and soaked in the beer reduction. Mascarpone is spooned on top, followed by another ladyfinger, more mascarpone and a final ladyfinger layer. The beer reduction is poured on top and slowly seeps down, with a scoop of sabayon placed on top to make it look like a freshly poured glass of beer.

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Dessert TrendsAccording to a report by Technomic, a food industry research specialist, dessert consumption is growing, with 40% of consumers eating dessert at least twice a week, an increase from 36% in 2010.

The 4% increase is due to: � Consumer moods. Seventy-eight

percent of consumers say they’re more likely to eat dessert when they want to treat or reward themselves. Sixty percent say they order dessert because they feel happy.

� What others do. Many consumers will only order dessert if someone shares it with them. Forty-four percent of desserts at full-service restaurants are shared.

� Available “healthy” options. Thirty-six percent of consumers say they are more likely to order dessert if a mini portion is available.

Rob Benes, a Chicago-based hospitality industry writer, reports on recipe development, beverage programs, business trends, equipment and chefs for trade, educational and consumer publications.

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Science Explains It AllA chef with an inquisitive mind and an interest in science can uncover a rewarding career in research and development.

By Suzanne Hall

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work for food boards, supermarket chains, restaurants and manufacturers developing new products, recipes and menus. These jobs require an understanding of food trends, food production techniques, food science and consumer lifestyles. It’s a good job for the right person. R&D chefs get paid vacation time, retirement and insurance benefits. When not traveling, they typically work a 40- to 50-hour week with holidays and weekends off. The pay is more than competitive with the rest of the foodservice industry. “Manufacturers and restaurant chains have deeper pockets than independent restaurants,” says John Draz, CEC, CCE, CRC, executive research chef for Ed Miniat, Inc., a South Holland, Illinois, supplier of custom protein.

“Totally green employees might start out around $35,000 a year. Those with a lot of good experience could expect around $85,000,” says Jennifer Holwill, director, research and development, Cinnabon®, Atlanta.

In addition to that “good experience,” potential R&D chefs need strong culinary skills, an interest in, or, better yet, a degree in food science, and the ability to interact with a wide variety of people. They have inquiring minds and love the challenge of getting food from concept to table and creating products and menu items for others to cook. And because they often work with food scientists, sales staff and marketing specialists, they need to be team players. While research might sound like a solitary endeavor, food research often is a group project. It includes interaction

I f you like science, enjoy a challenge, can work closely with others and have an interest in sales, a career

in research and development (R&D) might be for you. “It’s a great ride,” says Michael Holleman. As director of culinary development for InHarvest, Inc., a Bemidji, Minnesota-based company, Holleman oversees R&D for the producer and supplier of specialty grains, beans, legumes and blends for foodservice. He supervises a team of three chefs, works on new products and creates recipes. He also interacts with manufacturers, suppliers and chefs around the world as both the head of research and spokesman for InHarvest. His responsibilities epitomize the variety in a research and development job.

what’s it all about?R&D chefs such as Holleman are culinary professionals who work on ideation, development, costing and testing of new products. They


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with colleagues in various disciplines and in companies other than their own.

Being part of a team is one of the things Holleman likes about his job, which he began laying the groundwork for when he joined InHarvest 20 years ago. Although he started cooking at 16 and cooked his way through college, he went to work at InHarvest as a graphic designer, setting up websites and doing other computer-related projects. Part of his job included picking up the slack in the culinary department. That time in the kitchen gradually increased to full time and his current position.

Variety is a staple of Holleman’s work life and another thing he values about his job. He might be at the bench working on a new recipe one day and the next day, flying off to Istanbul for a nine-course tasting with chefs and the media. The bulk of his travel is not that exotic, but it does take him around the country. He considers that a plus of his job.

Draz is another chef who doesn’t mind the 20 percent of time he spends traveling. He’s part of a 10-member team at Miniat that develops cooked protein for the frozen food industry and national chain restaurants. Draz, who has owned his own restaurant and taught culinary school, has responsibilities in two areas: new products and ingredients or formulas. This includes introducing Miniat’s products to culinary teams. A full-time chef and a part-time student report to Draz. They all perform a variety of duties that range from working on formulas to interacting with customers. There is no typical day. That’s what keeps the job interesting for him.

Paul Rockwell, CEC, CFS, also enjoys the variety that comes with his job as executive R&D chef for Diversified Foods & Seasonings, Inc., Madisonville, Louisiana. He says that a good deal of his job is spent working at his bench developing and perfecting products and recipes for the soups, sauces, sides, entrees and dried blends Diversified manufactures. The products he develops for the foodservice industry are sold worldwide. His job is to ensure they are exactly what customers want. “We start with an idea, develop a prototype and then tweak it to get the flavor, color and texture just right,” he says.

That’s one part of Rockwell’s job. Another is research for product development and future trends. He’s always looking for “the next big thing” in food. Working with the sales force and traveling to make presentations for chefs and customers consumes about 20 percent of his time. It’s an important part of what he does because “chefs like to talk to chefs,” he says. The

previous spread: Making the Cinnabon Classic Roll® includes Makara cinnamon, fresh-baked dough and the signature rich cream cheese frosting. Photo courtesy of Cinnabon.®

opposite from top: 1. Angus steakhouse skillet concept delevoped for a client by John Draz. 2. John Draz, executive research chef for Ed Miniat, is working on a development project. Photos by Elizabeth Sartain.top: The Caramel Pecanbon® is the classic Cinnabon® topped with caramel and pecans.bottom: Jennifer Holwill is director of research and development for Cinnabon.®

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above: Paul Rockwell is executive R&D chef for Diversified Food & Seasonings, Inc.opposite from top: 1. The 2015 RCA Student Culinology Competition featured six student teams. 2. RCA Student Culinology Competition teams formulate their gold-standard recipes on-site, serving them side by side with the commercialized product. Photos courtesy of Research Chefs of America.

limited travel is a plus, but he admits he wouldn’t want to travel more.

It was a winding road that led Rockwell to Diversified Foods & Seasonings. He worked in restaurants for 12 years and knew that food was his career. He was looking, though, for other options besides restaurants. He looked into R&D and decided to go back to school for a food science degree. While there, he had the opportunity to fill in for an R&D chef on maternity leave, at Wayne Farms, Oakwood, Georgia-based poultry producer. During those three months, he networked as much as possible and began moving up in the field. Moving up is still possible for him. There are director and vice president positions at Diversified, or he could move into another department.

Although she has a culinary degree and worked in fine- and casual-dining, Holwill wanted something different from the long hours involved with a career in restaurants. She believes her

experience creating documents and manuals and being responsible for culinary operations at Ted’s Montana Grill, a Columbus, Ohio-based restaurant chain, helped prepare her for the corporate world at Focus Brands, Cinnabon’s parent company. She’s part of a team of two that “works our buns off ” developing products and line extensions for Cinnabon’s domestic and international customers. She also develops products for the international segment of Seattle’s Best Coffee, another Focus brand.

“In my job you need to wear many hats,” she says. “You need to be able to see the final product and know how to commercialize the item. You also need to speak the customer’s language and know how to work with them.”

The R&D job market is limited for newcomers, Holwill believes. She suggests that would-be applicants volunteer to shadow an R&D chef to gain experience and networking opportunities. Once in a position, there are numerous chances to move between companies and move up.

get a foot in the doorGetting into R&D “is the best career move I’ve ever made,” Draz says. “Our profession is collaborative and used to working with other chefs. That’s rewarding and exciting,”

Those chefs are willing to reach out to students looking to enter the profession. They do that individually and through the Research Chefs Association (RCA). Members of the

earn a Culinology® degreeThirteen colleges and universities throughout the U.S. and one in Malaysia offer Research Chefs Association (RCA)-approved undergraduate degree programs in Culinology. In addition, one U.S. high school, Bergen County Technical High School, Teterboro, New Jersey, offers a Culinology program in conjunction with Rutgers University, New Brunswick, New Jersey.

Find a complete list of Culinology schools here.

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organization provide mentoring and other assistance to culinary students.

Suzanne Bohle is executive director of the 2,200 member Atlanta-based organization. She says the goals of the professional group include being the future of food, and supporting manufacturers’ and consumers’ needs for new products that acknowledge trends and contribute to the growth of the field. “Our members touch all the pieces of the food chain,” she says.

Bohle’s advice to students looking for a career in R&D includes getting a degree in Culinology®, a phrase the organization coined to define the blending of culinary arts and science, seeking internships at manufacturing companies, networking with RCA chefs and getting involved in RCA activities for students.

To those suggestions, Holleman adds the need for a broad culinary background. “Chefs whose only experience is in independent restaurants are not a good fit,” he says. Holwill agrees. “Students need to experience a little bit of everything to

see the many ways products will be seen and used.”

Rockwell recommends that students consider a food science degree, or at least learn as much about food processing and food science as possible. Finally, he suggests approaching someone in R&D to be a mentor. “People in this industry are receptive and will help new people out,” he says.

Suzanne Hall has been writing about chefs, restaurants, food and wine from her home in Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee, for more than 25 years.

RCA activities for studentsParticipating in Research Chefs Association (RCA) activities and events for students is a good way to get a clear idea of what the research and development field is like, as well as to network and find a potential mentor.

Among the activities is an annual competition. To participate, students must earn a spot on one of the teams by completing an online application. Students must develop a plan to produce a product made on a budget of $500,000. Sixteen participants are selected for the competition.

The RCA welcomes students as members. The annual student membership fee is $30, and recent graduates are free. For more information, visit www.culinology.org/membership.

http://www.culinology.org/Education/Students/aspx

http://www.culinology.org/membership

http://www.culinology.org/membership

36 Sizzle WINTER 15

cancer-fighting properties and lower the risk of heart disease, as well as to detox and help heal.

When buying broccoli raab, look for moist stems and dark-green leaves. Younger broccoli raab has broccoli-like buds, which should be tightly closed and green. Do not buy if it is wilted, has yellowish leaves, open buds, or brown or curled stems. Store it in the refrigerator wrapped in wet paper towel and plastic wrap for up to five days. The vegetable can also be frozen if it is blanched, blotted and then cooled before freezing.

Cooking broccoli raab correctly is key. It must be blanched to remove some of the bitterness and the greens wilted to absorb oil and garlic flavor when sauteed. This is a great fall vegetable to use in pasta dishes, serve alongside fried potatoes or, when chopped, top a pizza.

BY DEGREES broccoli raab

by degrees

Broccoli raabRecipe by Cindy Komarinski, CCC, CCE, HAAC, Ph.D.Photography by Gloria Cook

Broccoli raab is a trendy, tasty green that is taking menus by storm. Some of its many names

are broccoli di rapa, broccoletti de rape, rape and rapini. The only similarity to broccoli, however, is the small buds on top. It is a member of the turnip family and has a rich green color and slightly bitter taste. The green leaves, buds and stems are edible. It is an integral part of Italian cuisine, and although its flavor is complex, it is intriguing and balanced.

Broccoli raab is a cool-season crop. The ideal time to cultivate it is in fall or early spring, and it needs to be gathered before the florets open. It’s possible to have numerous cuttings from a plant, if it is harvested while the weather is cool.

Broccoli raab has vitamins A, B, C and K, as well as calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium and zinc. This wonder-vegetable is also believed to have

Cindy Komarinski, CCC, CCE, HAAC, Ph.D., professor/program director, Westmoreland County Community College Center for Culinary Arts and Hospitality, Youngwood, Pennsylvania.

https://wccc.edu/pages/future-students/academic-programs/center-for-culinary-arts-and-hospitality/


Step 1Trim thick stems about 2 inches from where leaves start.

Step 2Bring heavily salted water to a boil; blanch trimmed broccoli raab for approximately five minutes.

Step 3Remove from boiling water; shock in ice water to stop cooking. Place on sheet tray; blot dry.

Step 4In heavy skillet over medium heat, heat olive oil. Add chopped garlic; saute until tender (do not brown).

Step 5Add broccoli raab; saute until tender. It should remain bright green. Add salt, to taste.

Step 6Serve on platter or chop to add to favorite meal.

ingredients1 head broccoli raab3-4 T. olive oil4 garlic cloves, choppedKosher salt, to taste

equipmentSkillet6 qt. potCutting boardChef’s knifeSheet panTongs

helpful hint � Broccoli raab is great to cook on a grill

after blanching. Just drizzle with olive oil and slightly char.

� This is a good vegetable to experiment with. Don’t be afraid to try different ways to incorporate this healthy vegetable into your cooking.

38 Sizzle WINTER 15

INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS bulgaria

international flavors

One of the great things about being a chef is the opportunity to explore the world and

exchange and learn from chefs and students in other countries.

When the opportunity came to travel to Dobrich and Sophia, Bulgaria, as part of a team of accreditation site evaluators for a potential American Culinary Federation Education Foundation accreditation of HRC Academy, I jumped at the chance to get up-close to my culinary roots.

As a young child, I was exposed to the foods of Hungary and Eastern Europe. My father’s family came to the United States in 1904 on the steamship Philadelphia, and brought with them the cooking of Slavic and Magyar traditions. I vividly remember these flavors and smells, including rich stews redolent with paprika that was sent to my grandmother from her sisters in the old country. She made cultured milk and

BulgariaBy Tina Powers, CEC, CEPC, CCE, baking/pastry coordinator at Oregon Coast Culinary Institute at Southwestern Oregon Community College, Coos Bay, Oregon.


soured cream and stirred them into the stews to give them a rich, tangy note.

Bulgaria, like Hungary, has a past influenced by conquering tribes and countries. The food is heavily inspired by Turkey, Yugoslavia, Greece and other Balkan states. As I prepared for this trip, I researched Bulgaria’s cuisine, customs and foodways. Food in Bulgaria is not just based on what is grown or available; it is influenced by how it is prepared. In Bulgaria, many foods are prepared by stewing in large clay pots. Clay in this part of the world is heavy with iron, which makes it red in color and produces some of the hardest and toughest pots. Being the most accessible material, these pots shaped the destiny of food, predating many local cultures by thousands of years. My team and I were invited by the Bulgarian government to visit the local historical museum, and saw pots and other articles that were 7,000 years old.

We arrived in Bulgaria in the city of Sophia, where young folk were skateboarding and chatting in perfect English. We changed planes and flew into the old town of Varna, then drove to our final destination in Dobrich. It was there that we found the true picture of Bulgarian cuisine, such as kyufteta, a dish of seasoned spicy ground meat patty grilled and served with a pepper-based sauce, shredded pickled cabbage and bean salad.

clockwise from top left: 1. The clay pot was created in 5000 B.C. and is considered one of the earliest chaffing dishes. 2. Specialty items of olives, beans and nuts at the Dobrich market. 3. Local produce of peppers and cucumbers at the Housewife's Market in Dobrich. These two ingredients are the life blood of Bulgarian cuisine. 4. Kyufteta is a spicy ground meat patty that is grilled and served with a pepper-based sauce, shredded pickled cabbage and bean salad.Photos by Tina Powers.

40 Sizzle WINTER 15

Bulgarian eggplant and pepper sauceIngredients:2 lbs. red pimento or bell peppers1 medium eggplant2 tomatoes5 cloves garlic, minced2 oz. olive oil1 T. white wine vinegar2 t. sea salt

Method:Char peppers over a grill. Remove peppers from grill, place in bowl; cover. Steam for 15 minutes. Remove blistered skins and seeds. Reserve. Blister eggplant skin over a grill, peel; reserve flesh. Char tomatoes; remove skin. Put all charred vegetables in food processor with garlic, olive oil, vinegar and salt; pulse for 30-60 seconds. In nonreactive pan, simmer mixture for 30 minutes, until thick and spreadable. Taste; adjust seasonings. Serve on grilled bread, crackers or as an accompaniment to grilled meat patties.

I was able to take a side trip to the Housewife’s Market, one of many daily farmers markets that dot the countryside and cities. The unending selection of seasonal vegetables, fruits and nuts, olives, breads, dairy and cheese, as well as smoked, cured and fresh meats, fresh fish from the Black Sea and dried and smoked fish, spices and oils, along with dry goods, pottery for cooking and tools, made me want to take it all home and cook. Bulgaria is considered one of the poorer

countries in the European Union, so farmers can’t afford pesticides and other man-made chemical additives for fertilization and pest control. This creates a quality of produce that is hard to find, even in the U.S. The common practice of crop rotation and utilizing composted animal and plant waste and other older, more sustainable, methods ensures a robust farm economy. The flavors of the produce were intense, loaded with amazing aromas and colors.

INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS bulgaria


the beverage of choice. Everywhere I traveled, I saw large grapevines growing on arbors and the fences of homes, as most families make their own wines. Bulgarian wines are famous and can stand toe-to-toe with some of the best European, Californian and Oregon vintages. Brandy made from fruits such as plums, cherries and apricots is called rakia. It is considered the national drink of Albania, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Romania and other Balkan states.

My trip to Bulgaria was a trip to the past as well as the present. It was one of old familiarity and fresh new ideas combined with millenniums of influences and materials to create one of the most flavorful and interesting food cultures.

Fresh vegetables and organic dairy products heavily influence the Bulgarian diet. Rich, thick yogurts are a part of the daily diet for most Bulgarians. Beverages, desserts, sauces, soups and main dishes are enriched with this product. When the team arrived at the school in Dobrich, one of the first courses we were served was tarator, one of the most popular dishes in Bulgaria. It is a cold soup or beverage made of yogurt, and is popular during the summer months as a beverage for its cooling and health-giving effects.

The tarator was served in a chilled tall glass and topped with a light sprinkling of sharena sol, or colorful salt. Bulgarians use this seasoning on just about everything savory. It is a mixture of paprika, pepper, savory and garlic powder mixed with salt. Other spices can be added, such as cumin and ground fenugreek.

Bulgaria has an immense wine-producing region. While beer is common and inexpensive, wine is

taratorA Bulgarian cucumber and yogurt soup.

Ingredients:2 English cucumbers 4-5 fresh garlic cloves, crushed1 pint plain Bulgarian or Greek yogurt8 oz. cold water1 bunch fresh dill, chopped fine2-3 T. walnuts, chopped fine2 t. sea saltFor beverage version, add 8 oz. ice cubes

Method:Peel cucumbers; dice into ½-inch squares. Place cucumbers and garlic in food processor or blender; pulse to chop fine. Add yogurt, dill, walnuts and sea salt. Add cold water until desired consistency. Pulse 10 seconds to blend. Add ice cubes, pulse another 10-15 seconds. For a finer texture, blend the ingredients 30 seconds. Serve in chilled glasses or in bowls; top with sprigs of dill, snipped fine, and a dusting of sharena sol.

sharena solAn all-purpose Bulgarian seasoning for meats of all kinds, fish and vegetables.

Ingredients:2 oz. paprika2 oz. dried summer savory1 oz. garlic powder1 oz. ground cumin½ oz. fenugreek, ground1 oz. sea salt

Method:Grind paprika, summer savory, garlic powder, cumin, fenugreek and salt together in mortar or spice grinder. Remove and store in an airtight container.

opposite from top: 1. Local organic cheese and dairy products at a market in Sophia. 2. Modern handmade tools and equipment at the Housewife's Market in Dobrich.top: Tarator is a Bulgarian cucumber and yogurt soup that also subs as a beverage.bottom: Traditional Bulgarian grilled meats and vegetables.

42 Sizzle WINTER 15

the interviewClaud BeltranBy Ethel Hammer

Early in his career, Claud Beltran worked for Thomas Keller, a demanding perfectionist, even

though Beltran is admittedly casual and free-form. Surviving in the business for over a quarter of century, Beltran is inventive and adaptable. Take the fluidity with which he treats The Eatery. It sits on a corner where you can barely see the sign. Four nights a week, it’s a restaurant where the menu changes every month. The rest of the time it’s a small catering hall with 40 seats, ideal for cozy gatherings under a chandelier composed of upside-down wine bottles. His food concept is decidedly fluid, too. When functioning as a restaurant, The Eatery moves around the globe doing special monthly menus that have included the foods of Germany, the American South, French Savoie, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean and Mexico, plus Southeast Asian cuisine influenced by Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia.

Beltran grew up in the late 60s/early 70s. Reveling in vintage culinary ideas, he based one of his monthly menus on the TV show “Mad Men.” He delighted guests with the nostalgia of steak Diane with cognac and butter, as well

bornLos Angeles

residesMonrovia, California

learned the tradeAttended University of California, Los Angeles Extension; prep cook, Checkers Hotel, Los Angeles, 1990-1992.

selective culinary pathExecutive chef, Dickenson West, Pasadena, California, 1992-1995; executive chef/owner, Cayo Restaurant, Pasadena Playhouse, Pasadena, 1995-1998; chef de cuisine/catering chef, executive dining room, Warner Bros. Studio, Burbank, California,1997-1998; corporate chef, Cacique Cheeses, City of Industry, California, 1998-1999; executive chef/co-owner, Claud & Co. Catering, Pasadena, 2004-present; executive chef/co-owner, The Eatery, Pasadena, 2013-present; executive chef/co-owner, Bacchus’ Kitchen, Pasadena, 2015-present.

selective achievements, awards, accoladesNamed in “Best Chefs America,” 2013; “Cocinando con las estrellas,” Univision TV pilot, 2001; winner, “Guys Grocery Games,” Food Network, 2014; Bacchus' Kitchen named “Best New Restaurant” and Beltran named “Best Chef” by Pasadena Weekly, 2015; The Eatery and Bacchus Kitchen were named on “Six Restaurants to Try in Pasadena” by Los Angeles Times, 2014.

THE INTERVIEW claud beltran


as trout almondine and crêpes suzette flambéed tableside. Because Beltran is a guy who just jumps in, the first time he flamed crêpes for diners, he used too much Grand Marnier and seared his eyebrows. After that, he flamed them in the kitchen under a hood. During his German festivity, he introduced diners to rinderrouladen, beef with mustard and onion rolled around a sour pickle. At first, Beltran had doubts about the dish, but he persisted. “I thought it might be disgusting, but I loved it,” he says. And he featured more accessible dishes, such as chicken schnitzel and potato pancakes topped with applesauce.

Like jazz musicians, many chefs learn to improvise to survive and thrive.

So, it’s no fluke that Beltran turned Bacchus’ Kitchen, his second Pasadena restaurant, into a jazz club–with food, of course. “Music is one of my biggest passions,” he says. He knows how to integrate what he loves outside the food world into his business. Recently, Bacchus’ Kitchen featured jazz singer Barbara Morrison in a night of “Bebop and Blues.” And the eight annual Claud Beltran’s Gumbo Fest Pasadena featured The Swinging 8-Balls, a rockabilly group.

Currently, Beltran sits on the board of the Pasadena Symphony, for which he does four yearly pop-up restaurants. Meanwhile, let’s ask him what’s popping up next.

above: Seared ahi tuna with caper/pepper relish and mâche salad. Photos courtesy of Claud & Co. Catering.

44 Sizzle WINTER 15

amazing. This was the time of Star Wars, and our project was in the $15 million range. I didn’t have an engineering degree, and normally people without one could not advance, but I was one of the only people who could make the machines work, so I moved up. When the aerospace industry experienced a downturn, I realized that I had to do something else.

how did you get involved with cooking?cb: As a child, I observed my grandmother Guadalupe, a French woman born in Mexico, who was an accomplished cook. She was a tiny woman who dressed fancy and wore big earrings and a golden medallion with the image of Guadalupe, her patron saint. All meals were big deals, and she’d prepare all day. She was a powerful woman with big energy who always spoke her mind. I recently learned that my great-great-grandfather had restaurants and was an early caterer who did banquets for the elite. I found this kind of spooky. I had no idea anybody in the family was in the food business.

left: The sign for Bacchus' Kitchen.right: Porchetta with butternut squash on top of Parmesan risotto garnished with chive oil.opposite from the top: 1. Grilled rib-eye steak with béarnaise sauce and cremini mushrooms. 2. A wine bottle chandelier is a central part of the decor at The Eatery.

what’s new?cb: My newest venture is Claud & Co. at the Hotel Constance Pasadena. We’re coming in with a chef de cuisine who knows how to interpret my ideas and with whom I’ve worked for a long time. It’s mainly bar and lobby dining right now, with a restaurant to come, plus hotel banquet facilities.

what kind of kid were you?cb: I was rambunctious, and to this day I’m still hyperactive. Every day after school I was out of the house, and I’d wait to see what was going to happen. As a kid, I loved tinkering with things. In high school I was into cars and had six pre-1970 muscle cars that I used for racing. Also, the family across the street ran an X-ray company, and because I had a natural mechanical sense, I started working for them. After a few years, the man in charge of the shop retired and I took over. I was about 20 or 21. Later, when the company was bought out, I went to work for Northrop Electronics, the company that built navigational systems for missiles. It was

THE INTERVIEW claud beltran

please tell us about working at Warner Bros. StudioEarly in my career, I worked as chef de cuisine in Warner Bros.’ executive dining room for studio musicians, many of whom played music for cartoons. I didn’t know anything about celebrities and acted smart-alecky because I didn’t know who anybody was. When I met Danny Elfman, a famous composer, I didn’t know who he was, either. But we hit it off, and he invited me to sit next to him in the recording booth. I have to admit that sitting with the musicians was the thrill of a lifetime. I always relate food to music, with food as the bass and wine as the treble.


how does a free-form man like you run a business with two restaurants, a new evolving hotel concept and lots of catering?cb: I‘ve learned to let things roll off my back. I do the best I can with what I have. I do a hundred percent of the artistic side and have a great business manager Stewart Suckling. Everyone has a vision, and the business vision and the artistic vision don’t always meet. To make things work, you have to be creative.

how did you get to work with a perfectionist like Thomas Keller?cb: I wanted to work with Thomas, a culinary genius, so I went to Checkers Hotel, where he was the chef, and kept bugging him to hire me. Finally, he got tired of my bugging him. The main thing I learned was that there is a proper way of doing things. It was his way or no way. He taught me how to build flavors on top of flavors and how to take proper care of ingredients. All food was handled delicately. I learned to turn fish at a 45-degree angle to get the perfect crust. Everything was very, very clean. If he saw a speck on anything, you’d get yelled at.

Just the fact that I worked in the kitchen with Thomas Keller was an act of God. I wanted to quit every day, but I’d go back and it would get better. Then it would get hard again, but I persisted. In the end, I was learning a lot from a great person and a great chef and that made all the difference.

why so many Asian influences on your menu?cb: I love Asian food. It’s 50 percent of what I eat. I love the flavors. There is a large Asian population in the San Gabriel Valley. The Asian culture is about

Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and cartoonist based in Chicago.

45 percent of my customer base. This culture is appreciative of food and they don’t mind spending money to eat well. So, for example, I can do something like a Japanese wedge salad with a dressing made with a pickled mountain radish called gobo root, typically served in salmon-skin salad. But my customers do not come to my restaurants because I’m doing perfect Asian food. Rather, they want to experience Asian-inspired food in a non-Asian restaurant.

best advice to culinary students?cb: Be ready to make a lot of sacrifices. Be patient. It takes time to learn a craft. Most people give up in the fifth or sixth year. Believe in what you’re doing. Make as few compromises as you can. And don’t give up.

46 Sizzle WINTER 15

THE QUIZ winter 2015

the quizDid you read all the articles in this issue? Take the Sizzle Quiz to test your knowledge.

1. How did Slice of Life’s Lyn Wells receive a stage at The French Laundry?a. Applied by emailb. Called the restaurant and askedc. Won a ment’or BKB Young Chef

Competitiond. Applied through her school

2. What is blanquette de veau?a. A French beef stewb. A French veal ragoutc. A red wined. A white cream sauce

3. What does to cook en blanquette mean?a. To prepare white meat in stock and

aromatics to avoid browningb. To cook meat by browning in fatc. To stew veal with such items as celery and

mushroomsd. To cook with cream

4. Which is a good substitute for eggs when cooking for someone with allergies?a. Avocadoesb. Tapioca and waterc. Nutritional yeastd. Flax seeds soaked in water

5. Once considered the best gluten-free replacement, this ingredient may now be another growing allergen.a. Tapiocab. Cornc. Arrowrootd. Potatoes

6. What is a hybrid dessert?a. Simply throwing together two of your

favorite dessertsb. Combining salty and sweet flavorsc. Filling classic desserts with different

flavored fillingsd. Combining the best components of two

desserts to make a unique combination

7. What is the name of the hybrid dessert based off the classic baked Alaska?a. Gelonib. Biramisuc. Spumaskad. Freddo

8. A research and development chef ’s only task is to create recipesa. Trueb. False

9. What does the phrase Culinology® mean?a. Love of all things culinaryb. Blending culinary arts and sciencec. Food scienced. None of the above

10. Tarator is a yogurt-based soup popular in which country?a. Bulgariab. Hungaryc. Greeced. Turkey

11. Which vegetables are considered the “life-blood” of Bulgarian cuisine?a. Beansb. Cabbage and potatoesc. Peppers and cucumbersd. Olives and cucumbers

12. Which one of Claud Beltran’s restaurants features a monthly globe-trotting menu?a. Claud & Co.b. The Eateryc. Bacchus’ Kitchend. Claud & Co. Catering

13. Which international cuisine most influences Claud Beltran’s style?a. Germanb. Frenchc. Creoled. Asian

14. Broccoli raab is best in which seasons?a. Early spring and fallb. Late spring and summerc. Winter and falld. Summer and fall

15. Freezing broccoli raab is not a good idea.a. Trueb. False

3018 42

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INDUSTRY PROFILE karen page and andrew dornenburg

industry profileKaren Page and Andrew Dornenburg

Two-time James Beard award-winning authors Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg brought us such

books as Culinary Artistry ( John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1996), Becoming a Chef ( John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2003) and The Flavor Bible (Little, Brown and Company, 2008) among others. The books hold cult-like status for chefs everywhere and have received a long-list of accolades and tremendous praise from readers. The Flavor Bible has stayed No. 1 on Amazon’s best-seller list for books for professional cooking.

Where did you receive your postsecondary education?

KP: After studying at Northwestern University’s Medill School of Journalism, Evanston, Illinois, I earned a bachelor’s in economics and a certificate in women’s studies from Northwestern and an MBA at Harvard.

AD: I studied with legendary cook/author Madeleine Kamman at the School for American Chefs at Beringer Vineyards in Napa Valley, California.

How long have you been involved in the culinary industry?

KP: I got my first waitressing job at 16 and waitressed during high school and college, where I operated my own birthday cake delivery company. After business school, I worked as a strategy consultant to Fortune 500 companies, including several in the food and beverage industries.

AD: At 15, I landed a job at McDonald’s. In its early days, it was still cooking—we had a flattop grill that was treated with great respect and seared each burger before seasoning it with salt and pepper.

Tell us how you became interested in cooking and chefs.

KP: I really became interested in chefs after falling in love with Andrew. I was amazed by the physical, emotional, mental and even spiritual demands of his profession—something I had never seen at this level in any other profession I’d encountered.

AD: I worked in the front of the house as a waiter and wine list consultant. I realized that the people in the kitchen were having the most fun. I later learned that “fun” entailed working six days a week doing doubles for the next year or so.

What influenced both of you to write your first book Becoming a Chef ?

We’ve always written books that we, ourselves, have wanted to read that didn’t exist. In this case, Andrew was trying to decide whether to go to cooking school or to work his way up in the restaurant business. Karen told him to buy a book on becoming

a chef and was told that one didn’t exist. When our research turned up the fact that the chef profession had been named one of the top 10 careers for the coming decade, we knew there was a large potential market and decided to write Becoming a Chef.

The Flavor Bible is a perennial top favorite book on cooking. When and how did both of you realize the need for the book?

After we finished our first book Becoming a Chef, we realized we’d written a guide to entering the profession but little about food itself, which led us to write Culinary Artistry. Karen kept asking chef after chef how they knew which ingredients went together, and was told by some that they could “taste the combinations in their mind.” Our interest in flavor compatibility led us to consider the compatibility between what was on the plate and what was in the glass, which led to What to Drink with What You Eat (Bulfinch Press, 2006) and, then, The Flavor Bible.

What is your advice to someone who wants to write a cookbook or be a food writer?

Start where you are: Write about what interests you. If you don’t have a blog and aren’t on social media yet, why not? Start now. Make sure you have something new to say and/or are saying it in a new way, and work to build an audience of followers by educating and/or entertaining your readers. Study the work of those who have carved out their own niches successfully, such as Shauna and Danny Ahern, also known as “Gluten-Free-Girl and the Chef,” and Paris-based pastry chef David Lebovitz, who always makes us laugh as we learn.

March 13 – 15, 2016Hyatt Regency AtlantaAtlanta, Georgia

April 3 – 5, 2016Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & SpaWaikoloa Village, Hawaii

2016 ACF Regional Culinary Salon Competitions

SOUTHEAST REGIONJanuary 29 – 31, 2016Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in AtlantaTucker, Georgia WESTERN REGIONFebruary 5 – 7, 2016The Academy of Arts, Careers & TechnologyReno, Nevada NORTHEAST REGIONFebruary 19 – 21, 2016Pennsylvania School of Culinary ArtsLancaster, Pennsylvania CENTRAL REGIONMarch 11 – 13, 2016 Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey CollegeSt. Louis

July 15 – 19, 2016JW Marriott Phoenix Desert Ridge Resort & Spa | Phoenix

A M E R I C A N C U L I N A RY F E D E R AT I O N

2016 EVENTS

Documents

Rediscover Blanquette de Veau · ncover the flavors of Bulgarian cuisine.U. 42 The Interview. asadena, California, chef Claud Beltran shares his experiences transitioning from an