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Influence of chinese cultural on Taiwanese fashion designer Shiatzy Chen
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1
Executive Summary:
This report discusses the evolution of Shiatzy Chen, a Taiwan based fashion design house. It
also discusses how it is influenced by the oldest culture in the world, how the brand
successfully amalgamates and executes western silhouettes and styles with the traditional
details. The report further highlights the business aspects of the brand and realizes its target
consumer and clients. It also throws some light on the culture of Taiwan and how the brand is
influenced by it, finally it compares the design philosophy with another designer of a
different ethnicity with some recommendations on the growth and expansion of the brand
globally.
2
Table of Contents
Introduction......................................................................................................................... 3
1. History & Background of the Brand and Designer ......................................... 4
2. Commercial accomplishments of Shiatzy Chen ................................................ 5
3. Description of their ethnicity and their culture ............................................... 6
4. Cultural influence in the designs .................................................................... 7-8
5. Shiatzy Chen accepted in the Chambre Syndicale .......................................... 9
6. Shiatzy Chen’s Celebrity Clients ............................................................... 10-11
7. Target consumers - consumer profile ............................................................. 12
8. Why do they prefer to buy from Shiatzy Chen .............................................. 13
9. Indian Designer with a similar design philosophy .................................... 14-16
10. Suggestions and recommendations ................................................................. 16
Conclusion ......................................................................................................................... 17
Bibliography ................................................................................................................. 18-19
3
Introduction:
Shiatzy Chen, a rising name in the global fashion arena since the last decade, has very well
used the “rising of the east” phrase to its success. A Taiwan based fashion house, whose roots
are still buried down the traditional and vibrant past of the orient, but has evolved to the
western standards and has portrayed to the world a very contemporary style.
Taiwan has been long struggling with its cultural and political identity, but as the major
influence is Chinese, it still manages to portray itself as a modern yet conservative culture.
With its modern infrastructure and architecture, it still houses its traditions and has preserved
its culture and ethnicities.
Due to the global approach, Shiatzy Chen has managed to attract several consumers from
different ethnicities and cultures. Through cross cultural advertisement campaigns and stores
in different part of the world Shiatzy Chen tries to convey that the world is one culture.
4
1. History & Background of the Brand and Designer:
History & Background of the Brand: Established in 1978,
Shiatzy Chen followed the precepts of tradition and
modernity, amalgamating the two into new creations and
innovative designs. Shaped by ancient Chinese culture and
blending with modern aesthetics, this brand applies these
elements with western craftsmanship into making the
finest contemporary pieces, showcasing a timeless classic
look that will dominate through generations. Through its
fashion house in Taipei, Taiwan, Shiatzy Chen created the “New Look of China” through its
contemporary look; it interpreted the Chinese cultural history with avant garde styles and
silhouettes.
Creative director, Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia, has put together elaborate embroidered patterns and
techniques keeping in mind the texture, fall, luminance as well as the intricacy of the fabric.
She involves unflawed new techniques and artistry. (www.shiatzychen.com)
History and Background of the Designer: Born in Taiwan, Chen Tsai-hsia Wang, the creative
head, was a dressmaker in her uncle’s factory
during the late 1960’s. In 1972, she met her
husband, was initially a dressmaker in her uncle's
factory in the late 1960s. In 1972, she met her
husband, Wang Yuan-hong, a businessman in the
textile industry. The couple moved to Taipei and
soon in 1978 formed an international company,
Shiatzy Chen. “Styles of China” is the literally
translation of Shiatzy. Since its inception, Shiatzy
Chen was known as the women’s clothing label,
but later in 1987, it’s been designing men’s wear. Chen uses the “Chinese style as the
fundamental concept” and “Western style for practicality.” The brand has clothes with simple
western clean lines, but preserves distinctive Chinese details and features, like the mandarin
collar, knotted buttons and other Chinese cultural elements. (www.shiatzychen.com)
Source: Shiatzy Chen’s 35th anniversary.
(ydnewstyle.com)
Source : Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia (www.forbes.com)
5
2. Commercial accomplishments of Shiatzy Chen:
Shiatzy Chen as a brand started growing out of Taiwan in the starting of the last decade.
Since the year 2000, it grew from a knitwear exporting manufacturing unit to a fashion house.
Its Commercial Accomplishments are as follows.
Year 2000: Shiatzy Chen was given an invitation to showcase her collection in the Asia
Designers Fashion Show, Singapore.
Year 2001: Shiatzy International opened their first store in Paris, as the first Taiwanese brand
to enter Europe.
Year 2002: Shiatzy Chen was invited to Shanghai to showcase her collection. She also
designed a couture collection for Swarovski, an Austria based crystal manufacturing brand.
Year 2003: Shiatzy International opened its first store in Shanghai. Celebrated its 25th
anniversary. Asian wall street journal selected Shiatzy Chen as an up and coming brand.
Year 2004: The London Financial Times elected Shiatzy Chen as the most popular fashion
brand name. Shiatzy Chen became the only Taiwanese brand to be invited to the Shanghai
International Fashion Festival and was awarded the best brand for quality custom made
clothing. Shiatzy International opened up a boutique in Beijing and Hong Kong.
Year 2008: Listen and Invited in Paris Fashion Week’s official calendar, SS’09 collection.
Year 2009: Paris Fashion Week- 2009/2010 Fall Winter collections launched.
Year 2010: Spring-Summer 2010 collection launched in Pairs Fashion Week
Become official member of French Fashion Federation – Chambre Syndicale.
Paris Fashion Week -2010/2011 Fall-Winter collections launched. (www.modemonline.com)
Observation: Shiatzy Chen is considered to be the “Chanel of the east”, due to its traditional
yet modern silhouettes, which fit really well to the changing scenario of the east and the
interest of the west towards the east. Since the year 2000, there have been quite many
commercial accomplishments for Shiatzy Chen, including new stores, global expansion,
awards, as well as the acceptance of membership by Chambre Syndicale, as the only
Taiwanese fashion house, and it still continues to grow each year with its expansion
strategies.
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3. Description of their ethnicity and their culture:
Taiwan Culture
For over centuries, Taiwan has been under
foreign rule and administration, moulding and
influencing the culture and policies. Anciently,
for a significant span of time, Taiwan was under
the rule of Chinese bureaucrats and was also a
Japanese colony, therefore a huge chunk of
Taiwan’s Society consist of an amalgamation of
different cultures. Taiwan now is a
constitutional republic state under the Republic of China; therefore it is immensely influenced
by the Chinese culture. Its a perfect combination of Confucianism Han Chinese culture as
well as bits and pieces of Japanese, American, European, and other local cultures and
traditions. Infact, the culture of Taiwan is a “perfect blend of modernity with traditional
elements.” (www.mapsofworld.com)
After World War II, China tried to forge a common
national identity on Taiwan, but the project was
doomed as the nation party of Taiwan demanded free
participation in the post war economic growth that
was hitting the world. It fuelled the revival of their
culture and identity; although Taiwan’s national
identity still remains debatable.
(www.everyculture.com)
The Taiwan population is a mix of the Aborigines tribe, which are believed to be one of the
earliest inhabitants. A separate identity and political voice has been maintained by the
Hokkien Taiwanese, who are originally from the Guangdong Province, as well as the Han
Chinese which are inhabitants from China, others are a mix of other cultures of the world,
including Japan.(www.everyculture.com)
Source : Culture of Taiwan (www.reachtoteachrecruiting.com)
Source: Taiwan and China cultural debate (www.aaa.org.hk)
7
4. Cultural influence in the designs:
Chinese clothing with clean modern lines, these are the combining influences that Shiatzy
Chen’s designs are known for. The beauty, colours, styles and silhouette of the oriental is
what inspires the brand Shiatzy Chen. The creations of Shiatzy Chen is made by interpreting
the oriental pictures and images, litrary works. Shiatzy Chen, integrates traditional Chinese
embroideries into new and innovative motifs and styles. Its pieces often include handcrafted
prints, inspired from the orient, as well as intricate embroidery done by the Suzhou technique.
Spring/Summer 2009- PORCELAIN
The traditions of Chinese
classics to today’s streets
wear classics, shiatzy Chen
has always combined these
two languages to form what
we see here- The S/S
2009:Porcelain. Inspired by
the fine porcelain from the
Sung Dynasty of China has been known for its refinement, elegance and taste. The porcelain
vessles takes shape in this collection through elongated forms, a glazed color palette, the fine
patina on the fabric, collar details, shoulders, the structure and silhouette as well as the cut
and the form.
The Color palette has
intensified hues like
Blood, Celadon, Peach,
Blanc de Blanc, which
act as a tribute to the
iconic vase of the past
with the modern tints.
(fashiongear.fibre2fashi
on.com)
Source: Porcelain (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)
Source: Porcelain (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)
8
Autumn/Winter 2010: Essence of Jade
Jade has been historically been perceived as the
most valuable and precious gem as it symbolizes
nobility, royalty and perfection. In Chinese Culture
it embodied Confucian virtues of wisdom, justness,
courage and humble modesty. Gentlemen and
Philosophers used Jade as a noble accessory in
history.
Shiatzy Chen’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection
attempts to produce designs incorporating the
underlying quality of jade in ancient Chinese
craftsmanship.
The collection creates an oriental aura, which consists of H line silhouettes which are
elegantly simple, and also takes us back to the women’s clothing back in 1950s. The
garments are adorned with accessories made of luxurious jade as well as sparkling Swarovski
crystals. Thus the collection is a beautiful unity of oriental aesthetics as well as the splendour
of the west. (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)
Observation: Shiatzy Chen as a Brand has been influenced and born out of the traditional
Chinese ethnic aesthetics and continues to do so, but at Shiatzy Chen culture and
Westernization goes hand in hand. However as we can see in the above collections, the initial
inspiration is taken from the Chinese culture blending with westernized styles and cuts.
Source:Essence of Jade (fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)
9
5. Shiatzy Chen accepted in the Chambre Syndicale:
About Chambre Syndicale De La Couture:
It’s the regulatory commission that takes the decisions on which fashion houses are eligible
of becoming genuine Haute Couture houses. The Administration body of the federation
educates, promotes, defends and represents its members; it also deals with all the social and
working benefits and recommends its members advices related to labour and management. It
deals with piracy issues, foreign relations, and timetable of the fashion collections. (Thomas,
nd)
Strict Regulations for membership:
There are certain strict rules to classify as a couture house. A couturier must design and
produce 30-50 original and new designs of both day wear as well as evening wear for every
collection, twice a year showcase their collection in Paris.(2 collections a year). They should
employ a minimum of 15-20 full time technical workers at one studio or workshop. Because
of the strict rules and regulations only a few design houses can make it to be a member of the
Chambre, and use the label of Haute Couture. (Thomas, nd)
Observation: It is not a small feat for any designer to become a part of the Chambre
Syndicale, as The French Federation of Haute Couture, Paris invites designers, accredits and
invites only certain designers from all over the world, who have been recognized for their
distinguished designs involving exceptional craftsmanship and quality. Shiatzy Chen is the
only design house from Taiwan to be honoured as a member of the Federation and can refer
to its collection as a Haute Couture. The Federation, started in 1868, in order to preserve the
quality and reputation of Couture, is highly selective with the members that they select.
Therefore the members have to live up to the expectation of the Federation of quality and
reputation of their Couture collections. Abiding by the strict regulations of the Chambre
Syndicale, and keeping in mind the exceptional designs and quality, Shiatzy Chen is amongst
the few designers from Asia who made it to be a Haute Couture House, and a member of the
Syndicale.
10
6. Shiatzy Chen’s Celebrity Client
Source: Celebrity clients (coronar.com.my)
Celebrities include actress and singer Tiffany Hsu and Justin Ji,
Miss Malaysia/Universe 2011 Deborah Henry and Malaysian actor Hans Issac.
Datin Seri Tiara Jacquelina Korean Actress Pace Wu Sara Jessica Parker in Shiatzy Chen.
wearing a burgundy in Venice Film festival.
Shiatzy chen dress.
11
Lady gaga in a high collar Chinese Actress Michelle Jessica Alba in Shiatzy Chen
Shiatzy Chen top Yeoh in Shiatzy Chen
Other Celebrity Clients include: Hong Kong singer and actress Karen Mok, Television
host, Patty Hou, Actress Chen Shu, Beauty Queen Yu Wenxia, Actress Carrie Lam, president
and CEO of Charmonde Luxury Limited Christie Wo, Actress, DJ, and TV show host Anna
Yau, UK based Model Jessica Minh Anh. (www.butterboom.com, 2012)
12
7. Target consumers - consumer profile (demographic and psychographic
profiles)
Source: Target market (fashionbi.com)
Targ
et C
on
sum
er P
rofi
le
•Women
•Men
Dem
ogra
ph
ic P
rofi
le
•Age: 25 to 40
•Income: $350,000+
•Occupation:Actor, Celebrity, Model, TV star, Beauty pegant winner, Owner of a big firm, Socialite.
•Marital status: Both single and Married.
• Ethnic background: South east Asian, American, European.
Psy
chogra
ph
ic P
rofi
le
• Attitudes: Liberal, Cultural, Experimental. • Values: Traditional yet modern. • Interests/hobbies: Social gatherings, Enjoys and appriciates Art and Culture, Fashion shows, Celebrity gatherings. • Lifestyles: Elite and upper middle class. • Behavior: Socially active, Art lover.
13
8. Why do they prefer to buy from Shiatzy Chen:
As we can see that for Shiatzy Chen the target consumers are the stars and celebrities. Apart
from them it also targets the upper middle class market, especially in the Chinese market of
Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, Macau, and of course its birth place Taiwan.
As Shiatzy Chen evolved from a completely traditional to a contemporary brand, it also had
an image transformation globally, thus affecting its presence. People started noticing the
authenticity of the oldest culture in the world blended together and stitched with western
simplicity and lucidity, in a Shiatzy Chen piece of clothing.
The South-East Asian market, which is still coping up with its conservative nature and trying
to merge their lifestyles with the new thought of the west, find this brand as ‘exactly what
they are looking for’ as it connects instantly with the psychographics’ of the target consumer,
thus providing them with the right amalgamation of their east and the west.
As Shiatzy Chen opened its only store in Paris, it
indicated that it has a global presence and it wants
to target other consumers from the west and not just
the South-East Asian market. Its constant efforts in
the advertisements in the magazines and fashion
periodicals in Paris, and its fashion showcases in the
Fashion week at Paris have turned many heads, and
now even American Hollywood Celebrities have
accepted this brand as a good way to experience the
authenticity of the orient.
The excellent craftsmanship and the focus on
quality, as well as the intricate embroidery as well
as the vibrant prints attract many buyers who
appreciate art and culture and have an eye for it.
Source: (www.shiatzychen.com)
14
9. Indian Designer with a similar design
philosophy as Shiatzy Chen:
Ritu Kumar: Ritu Kumar being one of India’s
foremost designers, was born in 1944 and has a
background in an art history and museology. Ritu has a
unique style of her own, which reflects the traditional
art and crafts of India and blending it with the
contemporary handwriting. She has brought new
horizons into the fashion and craft industry of India.
She had a humble start, with four hand block printers,
and two tables in a village near Kolkatta forty years
ago, and was the first to introduce the “boutique
culture” in India some 4 decades ago. She is also one of
the first Indian Designers who were catalytic in bringing the contemporary fashion into the
then conservative Indian market, and bridging the gap making India open its doors to the
contemporary and western fashion. Ritu’s forte lies in the traditional textiles as well as the
embroideries and crafts of India and amalgamating it in the right amount to come up with
contemporary silhouettes and cuts to fit the global target market. (www.ritukumar.com)
Ritu Kumar’s Collections:
Source: (indogenius.com)
Source: Ritu Kumar (www.gdayindia.com.au)
15
Observation: If the Design Philosophies of Shiatzy Chen’s Creative Head- Wang Chen Tsai-
Hsia and Indian Designer Ritu Kumar are compared, one can find many similarities in them.
The efficient use of the Traditional craft and embroideries with modern styles and silhouettes
are the forte of both these designers. Although from different ethnicities, but these designers
16
have emphasized more on the traditional and ethnic side of design and have not
underestimated its demand in the western market. Both Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia and Ritu
Kumar belong to the same generation, probably that is the reason they both still have the
traditional thinking following them in this globalized world. They have carried all the way
from the 40s and the 50s their traditional techniques and have amalgamated in this modern
era of western influences.
10. Suggestions and recommendations for this design house to achieve further
commercial success: (3 recommendations)
Recommendation 1: Many fashion enthusiasts wouldn’t have even herd if Shiatzy Chen,
therefore one of the suggestion would be a strong advertising campaign. As the brand is
spreading internationally and has become familiar with celebrities, it should also advertise
itself as an international fashion brand- label to spread across other parts of the globe. It
should target the western celebrities, like- models and Hollywood celebs, and make their
brand globally known through red carpet gowns and film festivals.
Recommendation 2: Rather than just being a Chinese centred brand or concentrating just on
certain demographics, Shiatzy Chen could advertise more ethnocentrically or maybe it can
make its ad campaigns involving people from different races and ethnicities wearing a
Chinese-western design, and the world is seen as experimenting and mingling with different
cultures. This would bring more awareness of the brand to other ethnicities across the world
and just setting up an office in other fashion capitals in the world would help them get more
business from around the world.
Recommendation 3: Shiatzy Chen has a different opinion about spreading its business across
the globe, according to Harry Wang, CEO, the brand plans to concentrate and grow in the
Asian market for now. (Amed, 2011) Asia market is still developing its taste for designer
wear and there are only certain markets where a brand like Shiatzy Chen would get its value.
Amongst the developed markets in Asia is Japan and Singapore. If Shiatzy Chen plans to
expand it has to expand across these markets first. Japanese and Chinese cultures have some
things that are common and Taiwan has always been both the country’s debatable dispute.
Therefore, amalgamating its Chinese details with that of similar Japanese details can do the
magic. Or probably to enter the Japanese fashion market, which is quite evolved, Shiatzy
Chen will have to join hands with a Japanese brand of similar aesthetics and enter the
Japanese Fashion market.
17
Conclusion:
Shiatzy Chen has been the next name in fashion and luxury since last decade. With every
show at the Paris fashion week it is marking its presence in the global market and making a
strong appeal for oriental details and western cuts. It is a combination of the intricate and
heavy Chinese and the sexy and simple western look. It has emerged from the strong Chinese
and Taiwan influence and a clear motive to stand by it making it the USP of its collections.
18
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