ppactke ef Textile raleratl'4n

ppactke ef Textile raleratl'4nVolum e - i

(A User's M anual on Flber Yarn Fabrlc and Garm ent Dyelng )

Pretreatment FiberDyelng Yarn

FabricQarm ent

*IK!: ..;;1::

Practice of

(A User's Manual on

Textile ColorationVolum e - I

Fiber, Yarn, Fabric and Garment Dyeing)

Practice of Textile n olorationVolum e - I

(A User's Manual on Fiber, Yarn, Fabric and Garment Dyeing)

By

M Forhad Hossain

MSc (THS, UB, Sweden), BSc (CU , DU),Lecturer (Tech), '

Depadment of Wqt Processing TechnologyCollege of Textlle Technology, Dhaka,

q

'

Books Fair Publications(Publisher, seller and supplier)

Islam ia Market, Nilkhet, Dhaka-1205

' .

Preface

It's a Iong days complain that there is a big gap between the theoretical Iearningin institutions and the industrial practice in the work field. Over the years, theimmense criticism from passed students and professionals regarding this issueinspire me to intend this book. This book is introduced to minimize the gap ..

(between institutional knowledge and industrial practice. This book is intended as t

a comprehensive technical manual to the techniques applied in textile dyeing in ,exhaust method - focusing .fiber, yarn, knit fabrics, garment and Iight weight Ewoven fabrics dyeing. Although the principle of dyeing of these textiles is samebut according to form of product the processes may differ sometimes. The bookhas several sections, major of pretreatment and dyeing of cellulosic sber goods,protein fiber goods, man-made fibers goods, and blended fiber goods.

Actually, this book is designed for the textile students and professional coloristsfor better understanding of dyeing processes and coloring methods - bothIaboratory dyeing and bulk production. The contents of this book have beentaken from different reliable sources of printed and electronic version. As thereader will certainly note, evel section of this book has been coordinated byindustry specialists and academic personnel. Finally structured this book as acombination of theoretical concept and practical knowledge. The term 'room ltemperature' used in this' book should be considered at around 30OC - aIl mostall dyeing processes are started at this temperature except azoic colors.

lt's a great pleasure to me to contribute a bit in textile study, in a modest way, to (development of a good Iink between educational institutions and industrial 'sectors. This book is my second creation in tezile field - the high response from :my students, colleagues and professionals about my first book Essential W etTesting Textile' has encouraged me to create this book. I hope this book will behelpful to the students, trainees and professional textile engineers with a vast texperience and knowledge in textile coloration field and that will be my bestachievement of Iast four years effod.

''Knowledge without experience is surplus baggageExperience without knowledge is stupid, sometimes very dangerotls''

M Forhad HossainApril 2009, Dhaka

t

Contents

1. Introduction 11.1 General flow-chad of textile wet processing 61.2 Garment dyeing cycle 7 i'1.3 W ool dyeing cycle 81 .4 Cotton dyeing cycle 10 '(1.5 Silk dyeing cycle 11 $1.6 Synthetic sbers dyeing cycle 12 (

12. Necessal calculations used in textile dyeing processes '2.1 Expression of mitures2.2 Molarity2.3 Normality2.4 Specific gravity2.5 Determjnation of specific gravity2.6 Baume (Be')2.7 Relation between Baume (Be'), Twaddell and Specific Gravity2.8 PH of Iiquid2.9 PH of water2.10 Use of percentage2.1 1 Pads per total amount2.12 Dilution of solution2.13 Stock solution preparation2.14 Dyeing calculation j2.14.1 % amount respect to owg i

i2.14.2 g/I amount respect to liquor k2

.14.3 Bulk dyeing calculation and cost analysis J

2.14.4 Lab dyeing calculation s2.15 Conversion of % to g/I j2 16 Conversion of g/l to % 72.17 Common tetile auxiliaries used in dyeing

'î2.18 Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing2.19 Conversion fadors for commercial hydrogen peroxide on weight basis2.20 Conversion of measurement units2.20.1 Conversion of Iength units2.20.2 Conversion of area units2.20.3 Conversion of volume units2.20.4 Conversion of weight units '2.21 Other conlmonly used units

3. W ater and water treatment 383.1 Propedies of textile supply water 383.2 W ater hardness 393.3 Reasons of water hardness 393.4 Hardness scales 403.5 Conversion of water hardness units 403.6 Determination of water hardness 413.6.1 Estimation of total hardness of supply water by EDTA 423.6.2 Estimation of total hardness of supply water by soap method 433.6.3 Determination of temporal hardness of supply water 443.6.4 Determination of permanent hardness of supply water 463.6.5 Preparation of hard water in Iaboratory 483.6.6 Removal of water hardness by EDTA 503.6.7 Removal of water hardness by Calgon (Sodium hexameta phosphate) 524. Pretreatment and dyeing of coûon goods4.1 Desizing of cotton4.1.1 Enzymatic desizing4.1.2 Oxydative desizing4.1.3 Testing of desizing effect4.2 Scouring of cotton4.3 Testing of scouring e#ect4.4 Bleaching of cotton4.5 Combined desizing, scouring and bleaching of cotton4.6 Combined scouring and bleac6ing of cotton4.7 Testing of bleaching effect4.8 Enzyme wash/ biopolishing of cotton4.9 M itening of cotton4.10 Combined pretreatment and dyeing of cotton4.1 1 Dyeing of cotton with direct dyes4. 12 Dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes4.12.1 Dyeing with DCT (cold brand) type dyes4.12.2 Dyeing with TCP (hot brand) type dyes4.12.3 Dyeing with HE (high exhaust) type dyes4.12.4 Dyeing with VS (vinyl sulphone) Npe dyes4.12.5 Dyeing with bi/multi-functional type dyes4.13 Dyeing of cotton with vat dyes4.13.1 General dyeing process4.13.2 Garment dyeing process with vat dyes4.14 Dyeing of cotton with azoic colors4.15 Dyeing of cotton with sulfur dyes4.15.1 Dyeing with insoluble sulfur dyeà

(x)

4.15.2 Dyeing with pre-reduced sulfur dyes4.15.3 Dyeing with water-soluble sulfur dyes4.16 Dyeing of cotton with pigment

5. Pretreatment and dyelng of jute goods5.1 Scouring of jute5.2 Bleaching of jute5.3 Combined scouring and bleaching jute5.4 M itening of jute5.5 Dyeing of jute5.6 Dyeing of jute with basic dyes5.7 Dyeing of jute with chrome dyes5.8 Dyeing of jute with acid dyes5.9 Dyeing of jute with direct dyes5.10 W eing of jute with reactive dyes6. Pretreatm ent and dyeing of Iinen goods6.1 Scouring of linen6.2 Bleaching of Iinen6.3 Y itening of Iinen6.4 W eing of linen6.5 Dyeing of Iinen with vat dyes6.6 Dyeing of Iinen with reactlve dyes6.7 Dyeing of linen with azoic dyes6.8 Dyeing of linen with direct dyes7. Pretreatment and dyeing of wool goods7.1 Scouring of wool7.2 Bleaching of wool7.3 Y itening of wool7.4 Dyeing of wool7.5 Dyeing of wool with acid dyes7.6 Dyeing of wool with basic dyes7.7 Dyeing of wool with chrome dyes7.8 W eing of wool with metal-complex dyes8. Pretreatment and dyeing of silk goods8.1 Degumming/ scouring of silk8.2 Bleaching of silk8.3 Y itening of silk8.4 Dyeing of silk with acid dyes8.5 Dyeing of silk with basic dyes8.6 Dyeing of silk with reactive dyes8.7 Dyeing of silk with metal-complex dyes

(xi)

139141143148149151153155155155157158159161

164164167169170170172172172

173173175177178178181183185

187187189191191193193195

9. Pretreatment and dyeing of viscose rayon goods9.1 Scouring of viscose9.2 Bleaching of viscose9.3 M itening of viscose9.4 Dyeing of viscose with direct dyes9.5 Dyeing of viscose with reactive dyes

10. Pretreatment and dyeing of polyester (PET) goods10.1 Scouring of PET10.2 Heat-setting of PET and other synthetic fabrics10.3 Decortication of polyester fabric10.4 Bleaching of PET10.5 Combined scouring and bleaching of PET10.6 M itening of PET10.7 W eing of PET with disperse dyes in carrier method10.8 Dyeing of PET with disperse dyes in HTHP method10.9 Dyeing of cationic dyeable polyester with basic dyes11. Pretreatment and dyeing of polyamide goods11.1 Scouring of polyamide (nylon 6.6)11.2 Bleaching of polyamide (nylon 6.6)11.3 M itening of polyamide (nylon 6.6)1 1.4 Dyeing of polyamide with disperse dyes11.5 Dyeing of polyamide with acid dyes1 1.6 Dyeing of polyamide with metal-complex dyes12. Pretreatment and dyeing of acl lic goods12.1 Scouring of acrylic12.2 Bleaching of acAlic12.3 Combined scourlng, bleaching and whitening of acrylic12.4 Dyeing of acllic with cationic dyes12.4.1 Conventional/control temperature method12.4.2 Retarder method12.4.3 Combined retarder-temperature method

13. Pretreatment and dyeing of polyester/cotton blend goods 24613.1 Scouring of polyester/cotton blends 24613.2 Bleaching of polyester/cotton blends 24813.3 Combined scouring and bleaching of polyester/cotton blends 25013.4 Dyeing of polyester/cotton blends 25213.4.1 One-bath one-stage dyeing with disperse/direct dyes at atmospheric

pressure 25213.4.2 Onœbath one-stage dyeing with disperse/dired dyes at high *mpefature 25413.4.3 One-bath two-stages dyeing with disperse/ reactive dyes 25613.4.4 Two-bath two-stages dyeing with disperse/reactive dyes 262

197197199201201203

204204206207207208209211214216

219219221221223225227

230230232236237238240242

(llii)

14. Pretreatment and dyeing of polyamide/cotton blend goods 27114.1 Scouring of polyamide/cotton blends 27114.2 Bleaching of polyamide/cotton blends 27314.3 M itening of polyamide/cotton blends 27614.4 Dyeing of polyamide/cotton blends 27814.4.1 One-bath dyeing with acid/direct dyes 27814.4.2 Two-bath dyeing with acid/reactive dyes 28015. Pretreatment and dyeing of polyam ide/wool blend goods 28415.1 Scouring of polyamideM ool blends 28415.2 Bleaching of polyamide/wool blends 28615.3 Combined scouring and bleaching of polyamide/wool blends 28815.4 Bleaching and whitening of polyamide/wool blends 29015.5 Dyeing of polyamide/wool blends with selective acid dyes 292

16. Pretreatment and dyeing of acrylic/cotton blend goods 29516.1 Scouring of acllic/cotton blends 29516.2 Bleaching of acrylic/cotton blends 29716.3 Bleaching and whitening of acrylic/cotton blends 29916.4 Dyeing of acllic/cotton blends 30116.4.1 One-bath two-stage dyeing of acrylic/cotton blend with

basic/direct dyes 30116.4.2 Two-bath two-stage dyeing of acrylic/cotton blend with basic/

reactive dyes 304

17. Pretreatm ent and dyeing of acrylic/wool blend goods 30717.1 Scouring of acrylicM ool blends 30717.2 Bleaching of acrylic/wool blends 30917.3 Combined scouring and bleaching of acfylic/wool blends 30917.4 Bleaching and whitening of acrylic/wool blends 31 117.5 Dyeing of acrylic/wool blends 31317.5.1 One-bath one-stage dyeing of acrylieN ool blends with basidacid dyes 31317.5.2 Onœbath twœstages dyeing of acryli? wool blends with basidacid dyes 315

18. Dyeing of acrylic/polyamide blend goods 31818.1 One-bath one-stage dyeing of acrylic/polyamide blends with basic/acid

dyes 31818.2 One-bath two-stage dyeing of acrylic/polyamide blends with basic/acid

dyes 319

Dyeing glossary

References

320

334

@iip

t

1 Introduct-lon

Textile coloration is a combination of some series processes such as scouring,

bleaching, dyeing, and aftertreatment which can be carried out at different

stages of fiber processing in different forms like staple, yarn, fabric (rope oropen-width, piece and garment). Dyeing of staple forms (Ioose fibers) is betterfor achieving better colorfastness, maximum penetration and uniform migration

of dyes over dyeing. Yarn dyeing is very popular for making Jacquard or stripeffects in fabrics and it is carried out in different form Iike hank, package or

beam. Piece (batch) dyeing is carried out open-width or rope form in dependingon machine type, product type and end-uses. Usually these materials are dyed

in exhaust dyeing method in a single dyeing machine with different structure.

Knit fabrics dyeing in batch process is very common in winch dyéing machine,

but Iightweight woven fabrics and garment are also possible to dye with same

principle in different form of dyeing machine such as jet dyeing machine. Duringgarment dyeing process, some dyeing parameters should be adjusted accordingto form of products - tightly weaved and heavy garments need the dyes with

better migration propedies, higher dyeing temperature, Iower Iiquor ratio andcareful circulation of goods.

(Usually, textile coloration is carried out to impart aesthetic attraction of textiles

and pretreatment is fhe first stage of textile coloration process, plays ve@ vitall

role on colorirlg of textiles. Generally loose sber, yarn, knit fabric, garment andvery Iightweight synthetic woven fabrics are dyed batch wise in a single machine.

So, the batch preparation is the early step of pretreatment in coloration process.Batching is a systematic way to make batch or Iot according to production and

machine capacity. Usually it is calculated by weight or Iength unit - fiber, yarn,knit fabrics, garments, and Iighf q''aight woven fabrics are prepared as weight unit

i

in exhaust dyeing' method', for example 20kg, 100kg, 500kg etc. And in wovendyeing it is calculated by length unit; for example soometer

, 20,000meter,50,000meter etc.

Pretreatment is the preparatory stage of tetile coloration - desizing, scouring,bleaching are included as pretreatment process

. It is called the 'Heart' of dyeingbecause of its impodance in success of next processing'

, perfect pretreatment ofdyeable materials is the basic requirement for optimum dyeing results

. Otherelse tremendous dyeing problems may arise

. The major objectives of thepretreatments are:

To remove natural matters contained in the sbers

To remove sizes and Iubricants applied during the procéssing of the sberand soil gathered during production.To improve the absorption properties of material to even take up of dyes

and chemicals.To remove the natural self-color of the material to give the perfect degree ofpale, brilliant and optimum true color or highest white effects for whitegoods.To improve the luster and strength propedies of cotton goods

.

The general pretreatment processes for the most common tetile goods indifferent form of different types fiber are:

1. Cellulosic- Desizing (for woven fabric)- Scouring 1' boiling off- Bleaching- Mercerizing (mainly for cotton woven fabrics)- Brightening (for white goods or special case only)

2. W ool- Scouring- Bieaching- Brightening

3. Synthetics. scourjng- Bleaching (if necessary)- Brightening

4. Blends

-Normally requires the necessary pretreatments for the natural component.

7 These operations can be carried out by means of discontinuous, continuous, semi-continuous systems. This book focused on discontinuous or batch system of coloration. In this system aII the operations are carried out within a single machine - the materials need to load the machine, execute the treatmentst following a predetermined operation cycle. After that unload the machine and7. finally wash the goods to remove the unfixed and unexpected chemicals.) Although it takes Iong processing time but it has some flexibility for choosing Iotj' sizes - from small to large Iot size is possible.)' .

'

l Dyeing is a coloration process of textile which is invariably carried out in an

aqueous medium and hence most of dyes are applied in water-soluble form. lonic dyes are easily soluble in water and some dyes such as vat dyes, sulfur

ded to conved into a soluble form before dyeing whilst the disperse dyes are nee dyes are used in the form of very fine dispersions with the help of dispersing' agent. In commercial scale the selection of dyes is very important - suitability of

d es for dyeable fibers is a core criterion for successful dyeing. Nature of dyeingy process, nature of wear and tear in use, availability, and costs are the major .. considering factors before choice of dye in use.i'

A successful dyeing process is mainly dependent on different dyeing parameters

yèrtt and conditions that must be determined before starting the dyeing operations. At.r, , ),

. ' Iot of factors are correlated with success of the entire dyeing process. The

' following factors that should be considered with special care:') - Cleaning of dyeing machine to avoid stain in goods.) . :'t' 7%J; 'hLl.i-ïk't . --

'

sq . .L) .ytjy) j..jt.. .,..,$('.,

Dissolving or dispersing the dyes in water, which ensure a uniform bath

concentration. It can be done manually, semiautomatic or automatic color

kitchen according to specisc predetermined tenet.

Feeding the dye solution in the machine (dyeing chamber) after filtration,

within a control conditions.

5m00th transformation of dyes from liquor to fiber.

Migration and homogeneously distribution of dyes into the interior of fiberstructure and 5x with fiber

.

W ashing off the dyed materials to remove unsxed and unwanted dyes andchemicals for improving ultimate color fastness

.

Fiber propedies are bigselecting dyes and dyeing

Iow temperature and pressure conditionssome need more temperature and more pressure for dyeing and other

treatment. Natural and porous fibers are easily dyed at Iow temperature on the

other hand the compact and clstalline man-made fibers need increased

temperatufe and pressufe. Some common textile sber's propedies are given below :

Residual PotentialDensitv Melting

, andFiber - moisture water(gm/cc) Softening point

contentx retention %

Brittle at 100*C,Wool 1.31 13 - 15 42decomposes at 130@C

1.5 - Turn yellow at 120*C,Cotton 7 451 .54 Turns brown at 150*C

No damage < 150*CSilk 1.33 9 N/A 'Decomposes at 180OC

Resistant for 1hr at 115*C,Viscose 1.52 13 90 - 95 later yellowing and

Ioss of strengthAcetate 1.33 6.5 20 - 25 Plastic at 175

- 19yC,

and

parameter. Some fibers can treat withinsuencing factors for

Residual PotentialDensitv Melting, andFiber - m oisture water(gm/cc) Softening point

content% retention %

Melts at 260*C

Sticky at 230*C,Triacetate 1.30 3.2 12 - 18 omelts at approx. 300 C

Yellow after 5hrs at 1500C,Nylon 6.6 1.14 4 - 4.5 10 - 12softens at 220 - 240*C50% Ioss of strength

Nylon 6 1.13 3.5 - 5 10 - 12 aqer 5hrs at 1500C,

softens at 16Q - 2G0@CDry heat resistance at 1500C,PES 1

.38 0.3- 0.4 3 - 5. melts at 250-266*C

PAN 1.16 1 - 1.15 4.5 - 6 Heat resistance to 1400C

Shrinks at 700C,PVC 1.38 0.1 N/A

melts at 1800C0-5% shrink at 100@C,PP 0

.90 0.01 0.01melts at approx. 165*C5-9% shrink at 140*C.

éoqens at 140-165@C,Glass 2.5 0.0 0.0after 24hrs at 300OC

approx. 20% Iosses strength

Moreover, some internal and external factors can badly influence the dyeing

process. Among them just 3 - 5 major culprits are responsible for 90 - 95%quality failure of textile dyeing. The errors may come to the process fromdifferent sources, such as:

- Manpower deficiency- Defective or Iow quality machineries- Low quality of raw materials and dyeing auxiliaries- Utility (water, electricity, gas, steam) problems- Poor management system '

(

1.1 General flow-chad of textile wet processing

Preparation andStaple, tow d eing of staple,Yand top

tow sliver

Yarn production Yarn dyeing

Large diameter W eaving Flat or small diametercircular knits circular knits

lnspectiond rolling Piece dyeingan

and/or finishing

Pretreatment

Piece dyeingand/or printing

W et or dry Final inspectionfinishing and packing

1.2 Garm ent dyeing cycle

Yarn/Weaving filament Knitting

Grey fabric

Scouring '

Bleaching

Garment

Batch dyeingand/or printing

Wet or dry Final inspecikonfinishing and packing

1.3 W ool dyeing cycle

A) Worsted cycle:

Oilinj Sliver pre-Grezsy scouring cardlng dyeing

wool tmentDrawing trea

Combing

Staple dyeingDyeingVigoureux

Recombing PrintingDrawingSpinning

W eaving Piece dyeingKnitting and/or finishing

Dyeing and/orprinting

Finishing andinspectioniu

B) Woollen cycle:

Shod staple carbonizina Staple washing

wool i' and dyeing

Oiling CardingDrawing weaving

Yarn pre-dyeing

operationsW eavingKnitting

Dyeing and/orprinting

Finishing and finalinspection

- j

1.4 Cotton dyeing cycle

Staple Yarn Fabric

Singeing

Singeing

Desizing (notfor knitfabrics)

ScouringScouringBleachingBleaching M

ercerizing

ScouringMercerizing Bleaching

Dyeing and/or printing

Dyeing Dyeing

Steaming (forprinting)

W eaving/knitting W ashing after

dyeing and/or printing)r'

Crabbing andinspection

1.5 Silk dyeing cycle

Yarn Fabric

Degumming

Degumming

Bleaching

Yarn dyeing Dyeing and/or printing

W ashing afterdyeing and/or printing)

Finishing andinspection

1.6 Synthetic fibers dyeing cycle

Filament yarn Fabrics

ScouringBleachingTexturizing

Heat-setting

Scouring and/or dyeing

Decodication

Dyeing and/or printing

W ashing afterdyeing and/or printing)

Finishing andinspection

.. u . = .1u t1E). =e ' . v. .ë1i r - -J N: 4 tti j. =jë 7kn;j u E' JiLa-. . = ïpi . kL =-' ' ' IF '- . . ' . ' y . c , .'>.' ' - 6 : =. w z' t. . = . =â > ' : jK 'Ij!*/ ' . ' - x e'- ..x ' ' ... pi - ' ...' . '. . . .. . ' . .'' . '= '' U--- iiz =rZ?l' ' =%t t . '.k.'== = cé2='#p>1.J .1Z Tz's 11 '='' :='21J;'d.br. ':''/ï==2L-iIlF'.z..'fi) J1 '' ' ' ' - ' 5.>' --- ' . v-. .. . = . - < r &Jp.=.=cr. u, :bs .. . . . -.&j ay .. = tj .. .. = . -. 'à$ . . c ir s: <i . h. clgr ==ecessa . . C' ' At.lo' ..s . , ' -s ' u . , .

. u .. . .v= .. . w v : i v . .ç ..z. . . =w t;y :!!ii3t= . = ' '-

2 Necessary

textile dyeing processes

calculations used in

2.1 Expression of mixtures

There are a number of ways involved to calculate the weights and volume of

textiles and chemicals. The major relations are given below -1. Weight to weight (w/w): This expression indicates that one unit of weight is

related to the weight of another substance.

2. Weight to volume (w/v): This expression indicates the weight units of onesubstance to the volume units of another material.

3. Volume to volume (v/v): This expression relates the volume of one substanceto the volume of another substance.

The first two relations are mostly used in textile wet processing industry and third

relation can be used in laboratory calculations.

2.2 MolarityW hen one mole or gram m'olecular weight of solute is dissolved in one Iitre of

solution is known one-molar (1M) solution. For example,IM HCI contains 36.5 gm Hcl/litIM H2SO4 contains 98 gm H2SO4/IitIM NaOH contains 40 gm NaoH/lit0.1M HCI contains 36.5x 0.1= 3.65 gm HCI/Iit0.01M H2SO4 contains 98x 0.01= 0.98 gm H2SO4/Iit0.001M NaOH contains 40x 0.001= 0.04 gm NaoH/lit

E ;(. ,!i.1?. J.V'. -sr :; ï). IIjJ :.. ...11r2 3. . .- . ; :. .; =- .-. . .;.. . qy .. E . .. z cn .... c.z è.u- . .

2.3 Norm ality

W hen one gram equivalent weight of solute is dissolved in one liter of solution is

known one-normal (1N) solution. lt is calculated from the molecular weightdivided by the hydrogen equivalent (maximum valency of ion) of substance. Forexample,IN HCl contains 36.5 gm Hcl/lit

IN H2SO4 contains 49 gm H2SO4/IitIN NaOH contains 40 gm NaoH/lit

0.1N HCI contains 36.5x 0.1= 3.65 gm Hcl/lit0.01N H2SO4 contains 49x 0.01= 0.49 gm H2SO4/Iit

0.001N NaOH contains 40x 0.001= 0.04 gm NaoH/lit

2.4 Specific gravity

The ratio of the weight of a desnite volume (density) of a substance to the weightof an equal volume (density) of some reference substance is known specificgravity or relative density. For Iiquids or solids it is the ratio of the density

(usually at 20@C) to the density of water (maximum density) measured at 4*C.Since the weight of 1cc water at 4C is 1gm the specisc gravity of water is taken 1at 4@C. In practice the specisc gravity if water is considered 1 at ordinary

temperature because the volume of water does not change remarkably with Iittleèhange in tempemture. In general sense, the specific gravity indicates the weight

of 1ml of substance. For example, the specific gravity of sulfuric acid 1.84 means

that 1mI of this sulfuric acid weight is 1.84 gm.

2.5 Determ ination of specific gravity

ln textile wet process specific gravity is a vital factor to maintain process

parameter. Usually an instrument, named hydrometer is used to determine the

specific gravity of solution. But it can also be calculated by using the formula:

Specific gravity (SG) = (weight of Iiquid/ volume of the Iiquid)

'' . . ' L' 't ' è )t. p. èl ' ' f t'Ek è)s '' . . !()ti.()#-''( ' !:y) i;7lJ)rr)tk''i'El i;q:-i)t1i èlr-bèptlsilgli 'è' ' --FTI:@ùI@)itE:' . '' -1'-11/:/ '''1':7r''11r--'1,:-3- --' ' -- 'è)ik;7li)l7-' --' - ' ' '' -

.. ) 2). . :' . : ... jtrjjj , . . . . ,. . .' . (::.. ....... ........ . .. .. . . . . '' . . . ' uk ' . .s. .Necessary caltulàtiùht-é-

',)d.. 'y..-#...,,.<.,,.,.y,,,.t;.I.à,....---

.

,'tzs,,t,(j,#)yyr,.,;(,:r.p.,..-.,--. -c.; g . . - --.

In Iaboratory, take a 100mI graduated (marked) cylinder and put onto balance tomeasure the weight of empty cylinder. Then tare (minimize the cylinder weight

and set the balance to zero) it. Pour 100mI of the given solution into cylinderand take the weight reading. This is the weight of 100mI given liquid. Specific

gravity can easily determined by putting the weight value (in gms) in the formula.

2.6 Baume (Be')There are two kinds of Be' - heavy Be' for Iiquids heavier than water and light

Be' for liquids Iighter than water. For heavy Be', the relations are:i

W hen Be' = 0, SG = 1.0

And when Be' = 66, SG = 1.842

SG = m/tm - d);Where, m = 145 (U.S.) or m = 146.78 (new scale) and d= Be' re@ding

Note: 1 ml NaOH of'36* Be '= 0.91 ml NaOH of .980 8e'= 0.52 ml NaOH of 50* Be'= 0.40 gm 100%

NaOH.

2.7 Relation between Baume (Be'), Twaddell and Specific GravityFor expressing the density of solution in textile treatment the three common

methods such as Baume (Be-), Twaddell and Specific Gravity are used in

practice. The relation among them is given below -

1. Specific gravity = (145/ (145 - @Be'))2. Specific gravity = 0.005 CTw) + 1

From 1 & 2 :

(145/ (145 - OBe')J = 0.005 (QTw) + 1

or, QTw = 200( 0Be'/ (145 - OBe-)J

2.8 pH of liquid

ln practice, PH of any liquid can be measured directly by using a pl-l meter. But is

a big question - what does the PH mean? W hat is the meaning of PH 5.0 and pH

10? Actually PH is the relative amount of H+ in a solution. It is defined as, PH is

the negative Iogarithm of H* in a solution. It measures the mols of H+ per liter of

solution.

Since, PH = - Iog (H+),

Therefore,

H = 0. then (H+) = 1 x 100 = 1 or greater mols H+ per literP ,H = 1. then (H+) = 1 x 10-1 = 0 1 mols H+ per IiterP , .H = 2* then (H+) = 1 x 10-2 = 0 01 mols H+ per Iiterp , .pl-l = 3. then (H+) = 1 x 10-3 = 0.001 mols H+ per IiterlPH = 4', then (H+) = 1 x 10M = 0.0001 mols H+ per IiterH = 5. then (H+) = 1 x 10-5 = 0 00001 mols H+ per Iiterp , .H = 6. then (H3 = 1 x 10-6 = 0.000001 mols H+ per Iiterp ,H = 7. then (H+) = 1 x 10-7 = 0 0000001 mols H+ per Iiterp , .PH = 8', then (H+) = 1 x 10-B = 0.00000001 mols H+ per IiterH = 9* then (H+) = 1 x 10-9 = 0 000000001 mols H+ per Iiterp , .

H = 10' then (H+) = 1 x 10-10 = 0 0000000001 mols H+ per Iiterp , .

H = 11. then (H+) = 1 x 10-11 = 0 00000000001 mols H+ per literP , .

H = 12. then (H+) = 1 x 10-12 = o oooooooooool mols H+ per IiterP , .

pl-l = 13., then (H+) = 1 x 10-13 = 0.0000000000001 mols H* per liter

pH = 14,. then (H+) = 1 x 10-14 = 0.00000000000001 or smaller mols H+ per Iiter

Similarly, pOH can be defined as, pOH is the negative Iogarithm of OH- in a

solution. It measures the amount of OH- per Iiter of solution.

Since, pOH = - Iog (OH-)

)k

:k

. . 'E?' (. E . . ..I... t 'r . qy y. rr .'tpE.t.('4

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u.,( ï è '.N'M 'èà%a: '1-, Lj-.ïjj . . I-, '4f . ,

y y.usmm..x... .......s., . .. . . . . a . ijyk gy cvzs; j... lryy

Therefofe,pOH = 0,' then (OH-) = 1 x 100 = 1 or greater mols OH- per IiterpOH = 1', then (OH-) = 1 x 10-1 = û.1 mols 0H- per IiterpOH = 2', then (OH-) = .1 x 10-2 = 0.01 mols OH- per IiterOH = 3,' then (OH-) = 1 x 10-3 = 0.001 mols OH- per IiterPOH = 7* then (OH-) = 1 x 10-7 = 0 0000001 mols OH- per Iiterp , .oH = 1o. then (oH-) = 1 x 10-1: = 0.00000on0o1 mols oH- per Iiterp ,pOH = 14*, then (OH-) = 1 x 10-14 = 0.00000000000001 or smaller mols OH- per ItrPH value designate the medium condition'.

pH, 0 - 3 = strongly acidicpH, 4 - 6 = weakly acidicpH, 7 = neutralpH, 8 - 10 = weakly alkaline

pH, 11 - 14 = strongly alkaline

2.9 pH of waterFor any Iiquid or solution pH + pOH = 14., therefore,

(- log (H+)J + ( - Iog (OH-))= 14or, - ( Iog (H3 + Iog (OH-))= 14or (H3(OH-) = 1 x 10-14 = K, water

For pure water (neutral Iiquid) the amount of H* and OH- will be same i.e. H+ =oH-i.e. H2O = FI+ + OH-

Therefore,+ 2 = 1 x 10-14For pure water

, (H )+ = 1 x 10-7or

, (H )- = j x 10-7& (OH )

Now, pH = - Iog (H+),-7PH = - log (1 x 10 ),

PH = 7,

'

?l)ty).t,F) ) , . ,i ,..',,.2-:. .

Similarly, pOH = 7

So, for water PH = 7 and pOH = 7.

For other Iiquid -

> en pl-l = 10, (H+) = 1 x 10-10

(oH-)= (1 x 10-14) / (1 x 10-10) = 1 x 10d

pOH = - Iog (1 x 10G) = 4

2.10 Use of percentage

In textile wet processing, 'percentage' is used to express moisture regain, pick-up dyes and other chemicals during treatment of textiles. In ordinary sense,'percentage' means parts per hundred - these parts must be in same units, i.e.

gms per hundred gms, milliliters per hundred milliliters, kilogram per hundredkilogram etc. This can be expressed as the below formula -

Unit of final substance (, .Unit of oriqinal substance X 100 = % final substance based on original weight

For example, a cotton sample Weighed 10 gm before drying and 8.5 gm afterdrying. So, what are the percentages of extractable and/or volatiles such as

water or other volatile material present in the sample prior to being dried?Answer is clear -

Original wt. - dry wt.x 100 = % moisture (extractible)Original M

.

1 0.0 - 8.5x 1OO = 15.0 % water extracted based on original weight

10.0

It can be càlctllated on dry weight basis as well -

Original w t.- dry wt. o moisture (volatile)x 100 =Dry w t.

10.0- 8.5 c= 17.64 /) volatile based on dry weight

8.5

' WE > i. Lè.* ' .' ..+* x+ 7O' ' ''

' '. '' :.t#t.r) r;:.;;@;!y.))t(kk.:ôili't))$tk$;i),pt;#6êi:)t't!!! r/klittj,t,d!r- th!lë - . r - . ' .Necessary ç4tt .ù' Iàtioh . ss.;,.:s.-,.,.,. zt.ztt,w.z- s - ' ;.).. - - --- a . . . y

This type of relation can also be used to express the dimensional stability of textiles.

% change in dimension = (tFinal Iength - original Iengthl/ Original Iength) x 100

For example, a dried and conditioned fabric sample of (30cmx 30cm) size; afterwash, re-dry and conditioned measured as (28.5cm x 30.5cm).

Therefore,

% dimensional change in Iength = ((28.5cm - 30cm)/30cmJ x 100 = - 5.0DA dimensional change in width = ((30.5cm - 30cm)/30cm) x 100 = +1.6

2.11 Parts per total amountThis expression is specially used in textile printing recipe calculation. It indicates

'how many parts are in the total number of pads'?' lt can also be expressed by

'pads per hundred pads of total'. The relation is:

Partsx 100 = amount %

Total

This relation can use to find percentage amount of constituent pads of total

materials. For example, the d!y weight of PC fabric is logm . After carbonizing

(dissolving cotton part in 75% H2SO4) when dried the sample weighs found6.6gm. So, in logm sample the polyester part is 6.6gm and cotton pad is (10-6.6) = 3.4gm.

Therefore,

% of Polyester = (6.6/10) x 100 = 66*, andQA of cotton = (3.4/10) x 100 = 34

2.12 Dilution of solution

Dilution of solutions is a common practice in laboratory works of textile wet

process. For example, a solution of 50mI contain 20g/l NaCI and if need to dilute

it to 5g/I solution then how much ot water need to add with this solution?

. #. #t52j2q.. ;) )-t....t tt.,..;':,- ilr. . (2 .. .): kr. qy:r-- . .

k

. . . .. :r.,-jj,,jz.y; qpjgfrrlp. . . .. . . .z..:.z :( . ... .. -k. .. . . . '' .s!s. .xy..fy' . r . . . . . : . . . :. .* . . ïrIqj7ZJLIIII;I lù.ç . jr jj) ;.)).. ksz k.'i. sq c = . . .. :, '; .' ... . =-. = u ' .. .

,,jjjy..nrpjl;. :sp . .)tky; z,. rjya ,.....,n .s s. ;, .: ,j tL ï . .y. .... ,.. s-scj.,.. ..... . . s,..-,..-,-.,g.,.--.-..--,..--.. ..., ., .Q ... xnc; vJ.,.'v1lv51' . . . ... ; L ' -' ' '2.z. ''' . '.J. . ' ? - I . ' : '

The relation is-

Vlxg, = Vaxgzor. 50mIx20g/I = vaxsg/l

or, v2 = 200ml

Therefore, the required amount of water is (200mI - 50mI) or, 150ml which needto add with 50mI of 20g/I solution to obtain 5g/I concentration.

This relation can calculate as percentage as well. For example, a solution of

1.0% is to be diluted to 0.1To. If the volume of solution is 25ml, then the relation is:

vlxcl = v2xc2

or, 25mIx1 .0% = v2x0.1%

or, v2 = 250m1

Therefore, the required amount of water will be (250mI - 25mI) or, 225m1 whichneed to add with 25m1 of 1.0% solution to obtain 0.1% concentration.

To obtain a desired concentration from two different concentrated solutions the

relation would be:

a) Let, the concentration of two solutions (same substance) are 80% and 60%respedively. The requirement is to produce one solution of 75%

concentration..

Therefore,

80 - 75 = 5 parts of 60% and 75 - 60 = 15 pads of 80% solution should be@

mixed together to obtain 75% solution.

b) Let, an 80% solution will be diluted with water to produce 30% concentration.Therefore, 30 - 0 = 30 pads of 80% concentrated solution need to add with

80 - 30 = 50 parts of water.

' ' . '. ' ' 1' .L ' . '- yir2'.: (y.t'. '-isltjllt-t.t....t .t/t$tçp''):.ldtfkij1k11t)a!t/t:2p-i;tl!I1$.l1i(.. -.;711: #(,.-())X.- ! #t?S.. -- . ' ' ' - ' - '

'' 116111 lti!lh 44:2:. it!lh t1!j;. '

.-' .,k).u '

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i-j!;,.;y,,iy.-. ... . . .. ,, ...-. .. ..- . .-... . . . ' .

2.13 Stock solution preparationIn practice 1% stock solution is very common in dyeing process. ln laboratory

work, 1.0 gm solid (powder, 100% concentration) dyestuff/chemicals is taken in aconical flask and pour 100mI of warm (around 45*C) water and stir to dissolvethe reagent to make 1% stock solution of that dyes/chemicals.

To prepare 0.1% stock solution - 10mI or 1ml of 1.0% solution need to mix with

90ml or 9mI water respectively.

In the case of liquid reagents -For example, take 10mI acetic acid in a beaker', making it 100mI by pouring

necessal amount of water is prepared 10% v/v acetic acid solution.

2.14 Dyelng calculation

2.14.1 % amount respect to owg (on the weight of goods)In recipe, the % (on the weight of goods - fiber, yarn, fabric, 'garment) amountrespect to the material is calculated with the following formula -

Required amount reagent = (Material weight x recipe amount %)

For example, the batch weight is 100 kg and shade percentage is 1.50/0. So, the

required amount of dyes = 100 kg x 1.5 t/o = 1.5 kg.

In Iaboratory dyeing, the necessal amount of dyes and dhemicals are very tiny- taking of this tiny amount contain higher error percent. Accordingly the required

amount of reagents is taken in diluted form of dilerent concentration such as0.1To, 1.0% , 10.0% , 20.0% etc. ln that case, the required amount of reagent is

calculated by using the following formula -

Required amount reagent = (tMaterial weight x recipe amount %l/stock solution %).

For example, 5.0gm sample need to dye where as the shade (recipe amount) is2.0% and stock solution concentration is 1.0%.

So, the required amount reagent = (tMaterial weight x recipe amount %l/stocksolution %) = ((5.0 x 2.0%)/1.0 %) = 10 mI.

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2.14.2 gm/l amount respect to Iiquor

In recipe the gm/l amount respect to the Iiquor is calculated with the following

formula -

Required amount reagent = Fotal liquor (lit) x recipe amount in gm/lit)For example, the batch weight is 100 kg and Ieveling agent is 1.5 gm/l, and M:L

is 1 :10. So, the required amount of Ieveling agent = ((100 x 10 Iit) x 1 .5 gm/l =1500 gms = 1 .5 kg.

For taking very small amount, especially for laboratory purposes the formula will be -

Required amount reagent = (Fotal Iiquor (Iit) x recipe amount in gm/ll/stocksolution %J.

For example, 5.0gm sample need to dye where leveling agent (recipe amount) is2.0 g/1, and stock solution concentration is 1.0% and M:L is 1 :10 respectively.

So, the required amount reagent = Ifrotal Iiquor (Iit) x recipe amount ingm/ll/stock solution OAJJ = (((50mI/1000mI) x 2.0 g/l)/1 .0 %J= (0.05 lit x 2.0 g/Iit)/1.0 %J= 10 mI.

2.14.3 Bulk dyeing calculation and cost analysis

(Estimation of profit/loss of a knit dyeing project of ston/day capacity)Let, stons knit fabrics will be dyed with same recipe.

Sales/kg of dyeing', i.e. dyeing charge = 105 tk

& Dyeing reclye and reagent cost..

M:L = 1:8., Thus, required liquor = 8 x 5000 = 40,000 lit

' ' ' ' f u' 7 )'t=$tJ-';r)'t@t-Y'tkJ?l'l-7i:t'7iî-pil)t2> -. -*--'--. - ' 'N cessary çalculàtllù, *:r ' . o,,.;.z.',,..rz,,.,,.,jkyk,)k. ..s'.., , - '

Unit cost of Cost forReagent Recipe Reagent amount -

reagent reagent inamount for Rons (in kg) tk/kg tk

W etting agent 0.5 g/l 40000x1/1000 = 40 200 8000

Sequesterent 2.0 g/I 40000x2/1000 = 80 300 24000

Stabilizer 1.0 g/l 40000x1/1000 = 40 300 12000

Caustic soda 3.0 g/I 40000x3/1000 = 120 100 12000

H peroxide 4.0 g/I 40000x4/1000 = 160 50 8000

Levafix blue CA 0.25% 5000x0.25/100 = 12.5 1400 17500

Levasx yellow CA 2.80% 5000x2.80/100 = 140 500 70000

Levasx red CA 0.85% 5000x0.85/100 = 42.5 400 17000

Salt 70 g/I 40000x70/1000 = 2800 10 28000

Soda ash 20 g/I 40000x20/1000 = 800 150 120000

Soaping agent 2.0 g/l 40000x2/1000 = 80 300 24000

Softener 1.00% 5000x1.00/100 = 50 250 12500

Total 3,63,000

B) Miscellaneous costs:

Purpose coslKg Total cost '

dyeing for R ons

Salary 20 100000

Utilities 8 40000

Bank interest 0.1 500

Others 2 10000

Total 30.1 1,50,500

. . z ::f jy 'a.: y j o.yj ; )). f :I!jy -. . t. .:

(

. > ->- S e -J. (;t) ;'ë?# ' . ! . .'. . z' zcs ' è .. . . . ' '' . ' ' '..' . ) . .. . ' . .= m =- . ) . kp ly zcy. . v A :t u p'. n :x- .. ' . . '

. . . - . . .-. v-b.n ... - .i , -. a t -. - . s a. ! .

ProfiNloss calculation-.

Sale/kg of dyeing 105 tk.

Total income from sale 525000 tk.

Total production cost 503500 tk-

ProfiNday 21,500 tk.

Nole.' The amounts used in above recl/e, unit costs are just assumption not precise value.

2.14.4 Laboratol dyeing calculation

Sample recipe -Material weight = 5.0 gms

W etting agent = 0.5 g/I

Sequestering agent = 2.0 g/I

Antipilling agent = 1 g/I

Dyes = 1 .5%

Glauber salt = 40 g/I

Soda ash = 10 g/I

M :L = 1 : 1 0

Slock solution concentration..W etting agent, sequestering agent, anti-pilling agent = 1.0%

2. Dyes = 1 .0%

3. Salt, soda ash = 20%

Calculation..

i) Total amount of Iiquor = 5 x 10 = 50 mlii) Required wetting agent = (frotal Iiquor (Iit) x recipe amount in gm/ll/stock

solution %)) = (((50mI/1000mI) x 0.5 g/l)/1.0 %) = 2.5 ml

r c . .. jyCW . ' .l 11 E'v ''# . CF'S,I ...'' ; '. .Jj ht: f . . .i .j! ' !..! ' . . . .... ' ' ''fk.'11!l.' t%' t . .. , . .;. . .. '% W'.'f>4=MAx .

. . . .... . . . ' . . - : . ty( t.= ; y.wj'yjsyjjjjkjyjqkjjjjyjtyqlji' ryde!' jj(E'.)* m*' 'J+(-1j;T);ZjKyd1-X:-E#=X5I = =*kk' . ' J = ' '

( è . .. ( .... rllikjjjrkjkjj.q ') . v. -.) @ . . r.... .-. :. : .):0 è)7 j ..(;-t . . - .

' . '

. - ' : ' ) . L è . -/ ' . . y)k . . jo'. ,.yywvszasuysysryysxka .. .... . ... . ..y .. . ...,. , . .

iii) Required sequestering agent = IFotal Iiquor (Iit) x recipe amount in

gm/ll/stock solution %)) = I((50m1/1000mI) x 2.0 g/IJ/1.0 %) = 10 mliv) Reqpired antipilling agent = Ifrotal Iiquor (lit) x recipe amount in gm/ll/stock

solution %)1 = (((50mI/1000ml) x 1.0 g/I)/1.0 %) = 5.0 mlv) Required dye solution = RMaterial weight x recipe amount % (or

shadeoAll/stock solution ts1 = ((5.0 gm x 1.5%)/1.0 %) = 7.5 mlvi) Required amount of glauber salt = Ifrotal liquor (lit) x recipe amount in

gm/ll/stock solution %! = (((50mI/1000mI) x 40.0 g/l)/20.0 %J = 10 mlvii) Required amount of soda ash = (Jotal Iiquor (Iit) x recipe amount in

gm/ll/stock solution %! = (((50mI/1000mI) x 10.0 g/l)/20.0 %J = 2.5 mlviii) Required amount of additional water = (50 - (2.5+10+5+7.5+10+2.5)) ml =

(50 - 37.5) ml = 12.5 ml

2.15 Conversion of % to gm/lLet, percent amount of solute in a material. for example, shade percentage of adyeing is X and material Iiquor ration is 1: 8', therefore, the expression of the dye

amount in gm/l can be calculated using the below formula:

X% = ((X x 10)/ Iiquor ratio (only L valuel) gm/l

For example, the shade percentage of a dyeing is 2.5% and Iiquor ratio (M:L) is1:8 ; the expression in gm/l will be ((2.5x 10)/ 8) or, 3.125 gm/l . If Iiquor ratio is1:10 then it will be ((2.5x 10)/ 10) or, 2.5 gm/l; i.e. the amount will be same both

in percent and gm/l.

2.16 Conversion of gm/l to %Let, gm/l amount of solute in a solution, for example, the required amount ofsoda ash is X gm/l in a dyeing and material Iiquor ration is 1: 8', therefore, the

expression of soda ash amount in percent can be calculated using the below

formula'.

X gm/l = ((X x Iiquor ratio (only L valuell/ 10) % . a )y. a.. .-52, j1!1I). ''.' -''f V;.1fY. .. . . . .k y.y

.;.,(yyy. .y..

If the recipe amount of soda a>h is 3.125gm/I and liquor ratio (M:L) is 1:8 a

dyeing', the expression of the required amount in percent will be ((3.125x 8)/ 10 )

or, 2.5. If Iiquor ratio is 1:10 then it will be ((3.125x 10)/ 10J or, 3.125%*, i.e. theTamount will be same both in percent and gm/l.

2.17 Common textile auxiliaries used in dyeing

Acid - The chemical compounds that dissolve in water and provide H+ (proton).

lt changes the color of Iitmas paper from blue to red.

Strong acids - completely ionized in water;

For example: HClO4, HI, HBr, HCI, HNO:, H2SO4, HaPO4W eak acids - partial ionized in water;

For example: HF, HcS, HCN, HC2HaO2 and most organic acids

Alkalis - The chemical compound that dissolve in water and provide OH-. It

changes the color of litmas paper from blue to red.

Strong alkalis - completely ionized in water',

For example: NaOH, KOH, LiOH, Mg(OH)2 most metallic hydroxidesW eak alkalis - partial ionized in water;

For example: NH4OH and most organic alkalis

Buffer = It is a saturated solution of acid-salt or alkali-salt mixture. lt resists thechange of pH on addition of acid or alkali

. Usually it is used to control the PH ofany bath solution. Buffer solutions are solutions containing mixtures of a weak

acid or base and a salt of that acid or base. For example, the mixture of acetic

acid and sodium acetate, which dissociates as:

CHaCOOH +.. CHa COO ' + H'

CHaCOONa <-+ CHa COO ' + Na+

: # t- 5 .-)-::)). è LLz.i-*$$*P '' 'SC7 '. --11,4111 i!I!sI(:j;. ùd!rj,.!4.t:!1'tktIqIk' '. ' - è ' --14:11j4j)-. .' ):1))j111t- .' ;j11ip'1Iril!!!ll)lIrj;)... y ), ,ij-k.,tIiiùL.- , --, --

;.;,,;-);;:.,,.,(,;-g--..--- . . .. .. ... . ..

Commonly used standard b&ffer solution compositionsï

(Content per liter ready solution)

pH level Com position

pl-l 1 3.73 gm Potassium chloride,

134.0 ml Hydrochloric acid (1 mol/l)pH 2 6.43 gm Citric acid monohydrate (C6H8O7.HaO)

3.58 gm Sodium chloride (NaCl)20.60 ml Soda Iye (1 mol/l)

PH 3 8.47 gm Citric acid monohydrate (C6H8O7.H2O)3.49 gm Sodium chloride (NaCl)

20.60 ml Soda lye (1 mol/l)pH 4 1 1.76 gm Citric acid monohydrate (C6HaO7.H2O)

2.57 gm Sodium chloride (NaCI)

68.00 ml Soda Iye (1 mol/l)pH 5 20.26 gm Citric acid monohydrate (C6H8O7.H2O)

196.40 ml Soda Iye (1 moI/I)PH 6 12.53 gm Citric acid monohydrate (C6HaO7.H2O)

159.60 ml Soda 1ye (1 moI/I)PH 7 3.52 gm Potassium dihydro. phosphate (KHAPO4)

7.26 gm di-Na-hydro.phosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O)

PH 8 4.77 gm Sodium tetraborate (NazB4O7.10H2O)20.50 ml Hydrochloric acid (1 mol/l)

PH 9 4.77 gm Sodium tetraborate (Na2B4O7.10H2O)

4.60 ml Hydrochloric acid (1 moI/I)PH 10 4.77 gm Sodium tetraborate (NaaB4O7.10H2O)

18.30 ml Soda !ye (1 mol/l)PH 11 3.84 gm Amino acetic acid (NHZCHZCOOH)

. -'t..k.. ;w. ;. .LqL.. #t. jà(k):))- rr.. yLb''ïùt6';( - . ... ..

:, --.r.t4 i .

pH Ievel Composition

2.99 gm Sodium chloride (NaCI)54.50 ml Soda Iye (1 mol/l)

PH 12 3.42 gm Amino acetic acid (NHaCHaCOOH)2.67 gm Sodium chloride (NaCI)54.50 ml Soda Iye (1 mol/l)

PH 13 0.375 gm Amino acetic acid (NHZCHZCOOH)0.222 gm Sodium chloride (NaCI)95.00 ml Soda Iye (1 mol/l)

PH 4.62 8.203 gm Sodium acetate (CHaCOONa)6.005 gm Acetic acid 100% (CHZCOOH)

Oxidizing agent - The chemical compound which provide oxygen duringchemical readion and conveding to oxide. They gain electrons in a redoxchemical reaction, for example, Oa, H2Oa, CaOCI2.

Reducing agent -- The chemical compound which losses electron duringchemical readion. It reduces other substances chemically, especially by

donating an eledron or electrons, for example, Hydroze (NaaSzO4), Rongalite C.

Sudactants - Sudactants or surface-active agents act in solid-liquid, solid-gas,

or liquid-gas interfaces and reduces the interfacial tension. In textile wetprocessing it works in be- een solid-liquid interface and reduce the sudacetension of Iiquid. It has a versatile application in textile industries especially in

textile coloration, for example, W etting agent, Detergent, Lubricant, Foamingagent, Anti-foaming agent, Leveling agent, Dispersing agent.

W etting agent - lt accelerates the wetability of material in solution', thus helpsto easy penetration of chemicals into substrate. Usually it is used in scouring,bleaching and dyeing processes. It is available in market in form of clear oryellowish Iiquid.

. ' .. E: ) . ) î' : Lti''.. LïCCIJ 17- SLL/; i . k'Wt . :..',Nèc4:y:#)t<#. )>j s oosysysz.uL'L. . . . :.- 77 7 :::))rq. . %

Detergent - Detergents are one kind of surface active agents but the reverse is

not always true. The sudadants which have detergency power and the number

of carbon in aliphatic chain are not less than 9. Usually it is used in textile to

clean the materials by removing undesirable substances. These products are

either soaps or synthetic detergents.

Lubricant - The chemical compounds use to prevent contact between solid

sudaces in relative motion in order to reduce friction, wear, overheating, and

rusting. They are very good coolants, provide the appropriate range of

viscosities, and are thermally stable.

Aptifoaming agent - Anti-foaming agents are another type of surfactants which '

are able to prevent or reduce foam. Usually, anti-foaming agents are esed in

dyeing bath and in printing paste to hinder foam generation. Exceys foam

generation can create adverse effect in processing and product. '

Anticreasing agent - Usually used in dyebath or in finishing stage to prevent

creasing of fabric or garments.

Antipilling agent - Some man-made and blended fibre fabrics can easily form

pills in their surface. Thus it reduces the aesthetic value of the fabric'or garment.

Anti-pilling agents are used to prevent such kind of pills formation during wearing

of c10th.

Levelling agent - Levelling agent is used in textile coloration process to achieve

tlniform dyeing over the whole substrate by controlling the rate of dyeing.

Generally it is a non--ionic sudactants type compound either fibre substantive or

dye substantive. It is available in market in Iiquid form.

lltlEtllu)l 's' ' ilqkyytjpljlkltl:)' ' ') r +j ;) ,.-. ., i: ;;,. . . r-. .. :..)r?): qëyyqrk,,j. ;), .

Dispersing agent - Usually it is tlsed in disperse and vat dyeing process helps

to distribute the dye molecules in dye bath. it is also help to penetrate the dyemolecules into the substrate. It is available in market in powder form

.

Retarding agent - The chemical compound that are able to retard or control the

dye uptake inside of the fibre. Using retarders is very common in acrylic dyeingwith cationic dyes.

Carrier - Carriers are relatively small organic substances that usually haveaffinity for polyester. It acts as a catalyst to accelerate the dye penetration into

the 5be in disperse dyeing process.

2.18 Chem ical form ula of com mon chemicals used in textile dyeingW ater - H2O

Hydrochloric acid - HCISulfuric acid -H2SO4

Phosphoric acid - HaPO4

Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaCISodium carbonate - Na2COa

Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) - Na2SO4Sodium bicarbonate - NaHCO:

Sodium hydroxide - NaOH

Potassium hydroxide - KOH

Sulfur dioxide - SOz

Trisodium phosphate - Na3PO4

Benzene - C6816

Acetic acid - CHaCOOH

Oxalic acid - (COOH)aCellulose - C6H,oOs

Starch - C6H1cOs

Hydroz (sodium hydrosulfite) - Naasco,( ... . ç.. yrjy (j)sy.yj yjt . ... ; . ; y .uyjy. ..; j . .- ::$(j)jëy(... ,, 3b. lq(i''17fè. '--' -. . ? 'i1111lt1t'-r '.)y: y 3-f1 '' '' . t :;..,) . - . .

' '

c ' ' L '' ' ' - (=. -t (441.2 jg.'j4k ;() 1(LLL1î(LL'-%P X- ' -- --'W ' . ' ' -'. 77 x '. )- ,j , ., - . krjjyy . ..jjjy,jj. .jjjjjrjjrg . . . .'''H, è'C. e:9.W. 4.$. . .!.C.s>j..... wn..s ep.ytiays c-. ,, .sy,y.ryyk4.o.o........ ...w ..y . .. . .... .y.

2.19 Conveo ion factoo for commercial hydrogen peroxide on weight basis

The below table provides the factors by which; of known strength, must be

multiplied to convert to weights of other commercially available strength'.

Required amount

H202 27.5% w/w 30% w/w 35% w/w 50% wlw

27.5% w/w 1.00 0-92 0.79 0.55 .30% w/w 1.09 1.00 0.86 0.609 & 1 27 1 17 1.00 0.70 h35 /0 w

. .

50% w/w 1.82 1.67 1 .43 1.00

For example, if 10 kg of 35% w/w HzOa need to convert to 50% w/w H2Oa; then

the amount will be 10 x 0.70 = 7.0 kg 50% w/w H2O2.

2.20 Conversion of measurement units

2.20.1 Conversion of length units

' .' * . ' . j

, ).E w .= ..- .. Lx ...-.- . -.. -. ........--. ... .. ... . ..-... .... ......w.. = . . ..u . ........- - - = - f-.=2.-.L==l=k . ..2=.L=..J.=. -.7- r- r- 7-.- !

j1 centlmeter = j10 mllllmeter j

'1 declmeter = l10 centlmeter )'!

'

1 1 'i1 meter = I10 decimeter ::i l !i1 dekameter= r1o meter 1I

! )!- r )il hectometer= ;10 dekameter 1

11 kllometer = 'j1000 m = 10 ha jl - i

'

.j....p1 Angstrom = l10 meter !

. -' '''M' E ..( . . . .

'e . .' - ( . 2 ' z . ' ' ..-. . - . . . . ' .. . . ' .' ' .. .

' )l . . ' l . . . . , . . . . .

i1 inch = (25.4 mllllmeter :

f1 Inch = i2.s4 centimeter il ! !

:$. - -:' q. jlyiY/rz' 7.'k $a. j; i yr . . . .L:jvs). !!yjgjg)ë,, -.r 1?...lk..

r = ' ' -

il feet = 10.3048 meter II . I )

'

j'1 feet = l12 inches )I . . .. . . .. . . 11.. .. .. . .

'. . . . .... .-.. ....-.....- .-..... ... -.. -...-.-..- - j

1 yard = 3 foot lI # !i

11 vard = '10.9144 meter i') - 1 j!11 rod / perch = 1416.5 foot :i

!t .

!!r1 chain = f22 yard I

31 furlong = l40 rd = 220 yd i!l I I> = - - - - - . . . -

11 mile = 1j8 furlong ijp .

'

1t

*

.

*

;-- - -...-.- - - -.- $-- - - ----S- --- - -- -.-- .--. - -. .-- ---(l 1 mile = 15280 feet ji t--i t

7i mile = !1 .6093 km .ië i. k-==..=w...-.. -...x--.......> ..--.- . ..*....-- ...---. - - j......... --...- ..x- -. ..-...--. ---- - .. .. - - -...--- .- - --. .-.--.. -. -w .- -. ............ j1 m i Ie = t 1

.6 0 94 k i Iom ete r i! î> V . , . . - . .. . .. . . - j

11 hand = 14 inches )i, I !. . l

!1 miI = ,0.001 inch yj i 1,

. . . )

( . . . . ' ' . ' . 'z :

7- r (tl fathom = 16 feet!

'

i l

i1 cable Iength = 1720: = 120 fathom !'i '''-'' I !

i nautical mile= '1852 meter il ; !I i . I5- j i11 league = 43 miles ilI ! l

2.20.2 Conversion of area units

l.... . . . . .... . . . (

y-.- ...... -...- *-).1 square centimeter = Ur100 square millimeter )i.L(%LqY*-* '7t' ..' : ;tp;-.y , .t.A, i. . .-- p::r): d.!! . :.r: :. .. .s(. .

' ' .

' ..'. , .

. i . ;è ,g' '...t .)-','y i ?@k-' -- ,-'-. ;.. vk' t)- .71117- t'. AiW'' -'-'' 1d1177.. :;''.71'$97-- khF . - . 7' '77-' ' ' ' '' ''. N. il!ldh 11:: 411!!! tlElst s. 11: Wsö' . .,. '.114:21r.. .-,.'à. s%y-.--g .,-. ...j?b 111111112: ,.'.... .r:y. -v;,..) - . f,s..,,pya-,- -.,q . ',i,,,,,,,.

' '

...;!t,y,à'

-; .. , ,-,,,j.

y,k .-.;; .. .

. ' '

. . . .

.

. . .. ) ' ' .

1 square decimeter = 1;100 square centimeter t

1 scuare meter = f,100 scuare decimeter.- - 5

E1 square dekameter= t100 square meter )61 scuare hectometer= l

j100 square dekameter

I ' .

1 ilometer = i1000000 mi = 100 h2 r1 square k tT

)1 Are = 11100 Square Meter

1,1 Hectare = 1100 Ares )$

kx . y : y . MA ., & ' ' c C'W , /1y# wjVSVAWSGaWT.=TW )'>k

.t , r' .) k; L ' zk+-r ' u . . .: ... ,.... .. - .... - . ..... - . - ,-

'

. - .. . ,.s. .... .u.. . i.

' , ,.. , ; . ;. . =.>. z.r -rq-=.uxr..p. - ....w--; ) ''---kzz.tb *' '-B@'v.-s,....v. m) :7. .

. =. . . - - .. è- ..( . . - .. . - ..- - . . -.. - . . - .- -'l' @11 Square inch = 645 $6 square millimeter '

J1 square feet = !144 square inches ;lI

11 square yard = lg square feetf l

- I t- )1 ACRE = 43560 square feetl !

11 square mile = 7!640 acres )l , r

il section = tl Square Mile 'i1à1 Township = 1t36 Sectlons i:1 s uare = !10n square foot 'j q

. i

2.20.3 Conversion of volume unilomvrsm ;. . . . . à . i. . .

4 ' . ' . . . . . . t

. )

! t ;1 cublc centlmeter = 41000 cubic millimeter ttl cubslc declmeter = 11000 cublc centlmeter ':I

1 bic meter = 01000 cubic decimeter ';I cu !q t j 7- '.1 Ilter / Iitre = j0.001 cublc meter = 1000 cc7- k r I - ;:1 Ilter / lltre = I10 decillter

:1 llter / Iitre = 10.26417 gallon il1 deciliter = !10 centiliter! I'o1 centiliter = . *--110 mllllllter :

Dr . 'f- 's ..ï ': k ; pj 'z...c; . .. .),..(; .jyt--gy(... . .4s.: .

t,1 cubic foot = 11728 cubic inchesî . )- .!,1 cublc yard = 3

.27 cublc feeti

. . . . - . I. . .

y j. h t. j , . E :j ..N j' ' U- -X---L.---L. - L.ZL--.L2'J- '. .Ll ..--.JS --Xù-L - .- L--J-.<---2.-.L----- --J- - - 2- - L .... .- .... ---- . l '- . . . JJ X 7. .(- -271 fluid minims = V59

.19379 cu mm 1tf ! ?1

1 fluid drams = rl6o minims i,I )

î1 fluid ounces = 18 fluid dramsi ll

. 1

j g -1 pint (pt) = j20 fluid ouncesJ)

. l

11 ills (gi) = 7,0.25 pint$ 9l1 .

7- jz jnttl quad (qt) = pIl

Si1 gallon (gaI) = 14 quad1

-k -'' ' -71 o1I barrel = r36 gàlons1

11 peck (pk) = (8 quad$!

'

!1 bushel (bu) = 132 quarti l;

. . .. . . .. . j . . . .. . .a-. LL.-L-L-..-XL- . .--..- - u.--.--- -. ..-u-.-l--- .- z.- ..- ,...-.- u.- -- -..- . ...- -,..- - -- .- .- ...- . - .- .- . 1. . .... . . - --'-.2V'.,11 fluid minims = 161.61 152 cu mm t1 I

:' !y . . - - j-...- ..'!1 fluid drams = 160 minimsj

'

j .

!

91 fluid ounces = 18 fluid drams l- ! ;1 ' )r -

;1 pint (pt) = j16 fluid ounces '!l

1 gllls (gi) = ro 2 5 pintj .!

! x .'1 quart (qt) = Ij2 plntIi )

H * T 7c. '' .Q -..i.Lb.9 ''. t ' . . .=. . J '. 1. . j . ' . ..x.rR=? 1. ' ' .>x' . 7 z : ' ' :'':il' l,: '$ LRI1.M Xfl' e ç-.= - ' ? ' 1 '

E!

. ' ' k ' : t E ' ' 'L '1* ')g x):. . j ikk; jj(j.' .Lf1L?;bjy ) T)'''.'i#i 'Aqli ' ': ' ' - ' - ' ' ' ' '-

' . . ' . ' .. .

' cr. -' kjr .t(j .k it. . . . v. rnr (jr' ...àj;r)jk' .. xs.' yjryjl ..,î..j.. /éqc.

'

:y ;Xs dtl'kj 'tlllkzliilltll'' '' . ' . .c . CIF .

Necess'al. ,. ,-t ,. :0'..'-. '..h,. 1. . , . J ktswqxs-.r,... -wass..x,. ..z..,. -. . ... . . '

r r51 gallon (gaI) = ,4 quad (i )

. 1- !

1 o1I barrel = f42 gallons.

! li )

. . . . : . . . . .

. . .uk ;

. . .

. . p

.. . . . . . . . . . ' .ë . : (.. .

k J .: . u J . w . EkL-- -LLL L- .l. 7 '= ' LLH L.JJ ù. .Lt i' ' ' ' ' ' - ' '' ' ' ' *.- . - . . .- .. -.- . - ..- -

=.-.. -.. .. - 4. -'= .-.. w.'.Lv.....= .LJ.L.=. .. . .L..l,

' . j . .k1 plnt (pt) = 133.6 cublc lnches !i :

J

r1 cuart (ut) = 12 olnt 3è * * ' '

i ' :.

j

t r '

)'1 gallon (gal) = 4 quad )

i.y

'

f 1

1

' ' ' '

;1 peck (nk) = i8 drv cuart 1.l - - - - h '''' - (

'

!1 bushel (bu) = 132 dfy quart '!ii ,E

è

'

.

'

1

. . ) .. .+ .- . . . .

F EE -. :( è; -;.j 7V ë. . . . ;.

y .z : : . . = . ; c .!. ' t.'' ... . . . . ' . . . . . . . ' - . . ' . k... . ... y. wa' .....

.. ( lg

. -.w.. = .=.- ...u w..l.. ..= . = c ..=

Q= - ... u ..= .!1 cord (cd) = '128 cubic feet i'@ t )) ;/ ' U- . . . ltl Teaspoon = 15 Mlllllltre i,t

l !r

! ' l

'

!l Tablespoon = l:3 Teaspoon l18

*

(. iq

'

.

'

)1 Cup = ,16 Tablesooon ,)

'

' 'r

!

2.20.4.

pFf el . r ; . . - y - , r(q ,,. y . k.

; .) . q . . . . :. . c . .ê z k, x. .>i è è ' ' l' '' *'',--** 7'..::--7-. ,..*-.---.- = -= a..

'=.x-..=--.-.-s. . --- .u.s- .-'..---.---=...-.--' -. - .'-' -.- -.-uu- .-- -. .t')ê1 centigram = ;10 milligram li .t

I ô.

V---Q'1 declgram = l10 centigram f)l t

'

! f !

l -- k

1 gram = 110 dg = 1000 mg !' j

7--1 dekagram = l10 gram il l -I

11 hectogram = 1,10 dekagram;

;

f-kilogram = :f1000 gramt 1!- .- - -- -- .t. - - -.- -

Conversion of weight units

) 7- . !'1 meqaqram = .1000 kllonram li 'h' '%e' j

'

'*e' '

F11 megagram = ij1 metric ton kt k. l j.

!j' ' . . . . . .. . . . . ....... .....:..- .-- ....- .- = = = .. .... .. - - - . - .- .. - - .- ........- j11 rain = 64.79891 milligram $g

(i 1! ,! (

' ht = l24 grains p.1 pennywelg ji i )i l

s $f (- ' 't1 ounce (oz t) = l20 pennyweight ll b

iC- ) j!1 pound (Ib t)= !12 ouncest l !.T ! '

2 .2- =- - '

c' ' K@ -k l1 graln = 64.79891 milligram èt

ri I .V1 dram (dr) = 27

.34375 grains i!1 l

iê1 ounce (oz avdp) = (16 drams il (

'

?il pound (lb avdpl= i16 ounces !

- ! #

'

k 2? 1f

l ton = 20 hundredwelght @)

1112 pound i:1 Ionn hundredweiqht = l) --' '--' 1

jl1

1 Iong ton = '20 Iong hundredweight C! l lt i

< . .. .v=

jp..: .

u . . . . .. . . .t1.- ...-Z c.--.. -. .-i- . ' . .il graln = 1

j64.79891 mllllgram 1,t l l

r- - . ë81 scruplels) = 20 gralns ,l )

;C*

111 dram (dr ap) = 13 scruple tj .E l i

- . , . . ;. . ;).: rt 8;)t. )L(Lq':...LbLpgzikIX..L,-.-V%L '*te.l>> ': .r :: ' ..Nèèessà'l. j; *6 c ** U: ' !. ' C ' . -- :;..-- rir. èr iutt.-ëyicrtq :r.(:à.cr!:!ï s,-.-r.(:; .k.. )(-,..!,!#j.-.;-.y j#!::;;:-jè;jr::c. :& qs.. - . ..,.:;:,.- . s; . . . .

7-1 ounce (oz ap) = 78 drams :l i :

:1 pound (Ib apl= 112 ounces i. 1; d

. . ... ' è ' '

@

'

. . . j

'1 carat (c) = 1200 milligrams '( l Ij--..-- j- t1 gamma (y) = 1 microgram ;li,- li ()

'

2.21 Other com monly used units

Quantity Unit Conversion '

Time minute 1 min = 60 s

Time hour 1 h = 60 min = 3600 s

Time day 1 d = 24 h = 1440 min = 86400 s

Volume Iiter 1 I = 0.001 m3 = 1000 ml .

Volume UK gallon 1 UK gall = 4.5461 Iit .

Volume USA gallon 1 USA gall = 3.7854 lit

Mass Ton/ m ton 1 t = 1000 kg

Mass oz 1 oz = 28.3495 g

Mass pound 1 Ib = 453.6 g

Mass kilogram 1 kg = 1000 gm = 2.20462 pound

Energy calorie 1 caI = 4.18 J

Temperature celsius 1 *C = 274.15 K

Temperature celsius 1 QC = (1.8 x 1 +32) = 33.8 QF

Pressure millimeters of 1 mmHg = 133.3 Pa

mercury

- . . . -.- y ?- (q-jLqlzijqkLjLqjtb 4'-,.'.. ()16$36'q-.L'. ..--.2:.- -. .).,yyryy;y. jljyyyyj y

3 W ater and w atertreatm ent

3.1 Properties of textile supply water

W ater has versatile usages in textile wet processing industry - from preparation

to finishing use of water is essential in every stage of textile processes. The

quality of water is a dominating factor for success of wet treatment. Industrial

process water hold different type of elements, sometimes pollute severely. W atermainly contains the carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates and chlorides of calcium ,

magnesium and sodium. Contaminated water can adversely affect the expectingstandard of textile wet processes. The process water needs a standardspeciscations aspect of use. Textile dye house consume huge amount of water

and this water mtlst be maintained the minimum standard quality, a typical

standard is given below:

Minim um standard Acceptable limits

Color Colorless

Smell Odorless

pi'l value Neutral (pH 7- 8)W ater hardness < 25 ppm of Ca COz

Acidity/Alkalinity < 100 mg/l as Ca CGDissolved solids < 150 mg/l

Filterable solids < 50 mg/l

Suspended solids < 1 mg/l

Turbidity < 5 mg/l

Dissolved oxygen Not permit

Carbon dioxide < 50 mg/l

Iron (Fe) < 0.1 mg/l

. ' . ' $ 1 'W .S' F V-.V*.ik TF ' ' ' ' '. . . . z. g . g.ç pju.. = . e 4 v . . . M #. .. . . . . . . .' :Z. ! t .V' %T ex *. s i. . . v . s7!7I..yr.#E 5 a. . . I N' -1 . mn#l ... p .. e .w .&<f# DX t '

Minimum standard Acceptable Iim its

Copper (Cu) *0.005 mg/lManganese (Mn) < 0.02 mg/lLead or heavy metals < 0.01 mg/l

Alluminium (AI) < 0.25 mg/lSilica < 3.0 mg/l

Sulphate < 250 mg/l

Sulphide < 1 mg/l

Chloride < 250 mg/l

Chlorine < 0.1 mg/l

Nitrite (NO2 ) < 5 mg/lNitrate (NO3 ) < 50 mg/lAmmonia < 0.5 mg/lOiI, grease, fat, soap < 1 mg/l

Total s ' lds < 500 mg/l; 1

Note: the listed properties are not needed for aII processes in a textile industry.

3.2 W ater hardness

Generally soaps create foam in water, but in presence of some materials the

foam creation is reduced and need more soap for producing foam - this

condition of water is called water hardness. ln this situation the cleaning

emciency of soap decreases dramatically.

3.3 Reasons of water hardness

Temporary hardness Permanent hardness

Ca(HCO3)2 CaCl2, CaSO4, Ca(NO3)2Mg(HCO3)2 MgCl2, MgSO4, Mg(NO3)2Fe(HCO3)2

lf found hardness in water, it must be soAen before use. Two ways are practicing:

Undergo the hard water in appropriate processes.

Treating the hard water with sequestering agent.

3.4 Hardness scales

Hardness can be expressed by ppm and degree:1. German degree

2. French degree

3. American degree4. British degree

Description Definition

10 H (German) Hardness 10 mg CaO in 1 Iiter of water10 H (French) Hardness 10 mg CaCO3 in 1 Iiter of water

10 H (British) Hardness 10 mg CaCO3 in 0.7 liter of water':

10 H (American) Hardness 1 mg CaCO3 in 1 Iiter of water .

3.5 Conversion of water hardness units

Sometime it seems a Iittle bit variation in expressing the water hardness in

different scales. In application, ppm is the most common unit for expressing the

water hardness. lt is called universal hardness scale. The below table has given

the conversion factors of different hardness scale.

Scale Hardness

USA D GB F

10 USA 1.0 0.056 0.07 0.1

10 D 17.9 1.0 1.25 1.79

10 GB 14.3 0.8 1.0 1.43

10 F 10.0 0.56 0.7 1.0

. . . ï . v .Tc 1 . . z . . . v. n I sl v.s J. K: '' CJ ' . . .. 1 ' ' ' -7 . ' ' %' > L ' ''!. ' ' ' 'V., C - ;E ' c k ' . . .) .:5 .F -A V ''L%.= ='>.a......f- ' ' v c .4. ' x . ' .-'.x=-%. ' ' ' ' F ' ' ' i % ' S ' ''. . .y= . . xoza.zet a . . . . . . . . . k . c<epuo .isxxarusxs v.. . . .Jky..S.XAJ. . >.)y. . bge . . x .: a ag x.-' . . ' h BP. . . z ' Ax 'R ' ' 1 IN ..: d7 . ..i x=- J ir . :. : .00 .y.gx'z&.zrea+>a. .Jr); . . ;Kii' -' v . .a3'.74 .lyLpylsIe.'r X.,z;I.'.JT. ' lhvijzrn:=Yr.%.' 'V'lz'.<.r !k ' yN;Fj c ' 2..!kw.*=%%X' ' y..J.' 1J1 7b.. . :h>Ly 'AN'N' 7X. .t:'

Other scales for expressing water hardness -a) Parts per million (ppm): The number of parts of substances per million pads

of water is known ppm. It is also called American hardness. It can be

expressed by another way Iike mg/l or gm/m3.b) Grains per U.S. gallon (gpg): The number of grains of substances per 1 U.S.

gallon of water (1 U.S, gallon of water weighs 8.33 pound) is known gpg.c) Parts per hundred thousand (pp/100,000): The number of pads of

substances per 100,000 pads of water is known pp/100,000.

d) Grains per imperial gallon (gpg imp): The number of grains of substances per1 British imperial gallon of water (1 imperial gallon of water weighs 10.0

pound) is known gpg imp.

Relation of these scales:1 ppm = 1.0 mg/l = 0.1 pp/100,000 = 0.0583 gpg (U.S.) = 0.07 gpg imp.

3.6 Determination of water hardnessAlthough water hardness can determine by using direct reading digital meter orstrip but in Iaboratory it is usually determined by titration with a standardized

solution of the di-sodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid (EDTA). Thetitration involves gradual addition of standardized EDTA solution (Na2H2Y) tothe water sample, buffered at pH 10 with an ammonia-ammonium chloride

solution. The indicator is a dye that changes color on reacting with calcium ormagnesium of hard water, such as Eriochrome Black T. It is available in tablet

(total hardness indicator tablet) form in market. At the beginning of titration, thelarge concentrations of calcium and magnesium ions provide that aII the dye

indicator is in the form of the red complexes with these metals (Ca-DyeD. Veryclose to the equivalence point these metals Ca and Mg ion is liberated from Ca-

Dye red complexes. The added EDTA begins to remove the metals from their

red complexes with the dye. This imparts the blue dye ion in solutioh. The color

of the solution therefore changes from red (dy- metal complex) to blue (freedye anion) at the end-point.

41

3.6.1 Estimation of total (permanent & temporary) hardness of supply water(by di-sodium salt of EDTA)

Basic principle:

Titration of sample water against standards (0.01M) EDTA solution.

Preparation of 0.01M or 0.02N EDTA solution:Molecular weight of di-sodium salt of EDTA

(CHZCOOHIZ N2(CH2)2(CH2COONa)2.2H2O= (12+1*2+12+16*2+1)x2 + 14*2+(12+2)*2+ (12+1*2+12+16*2+23)x2 + 2*18= 118+ 28+28+162+36

= 372

Therefore,

ln IM solution of 1000ml contain 372 gm NaJ-EDTAIn 0.01M solution of 1000mI contain 3.72 gm NaZ-EDTAln 0.01M solution of 100ml contain 0.372 gm NaZ-EDTA

Preparation of ammonia btlffer solution:

145m1 of Iiquor ammonia (NH4OH) of specisc gravity 0.88+15gm NH4CI +distilled water to make 250m1 solution to give a pi-l of 10.

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'

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Figure: Determination of water hardness.'PL' ''- - = :NQ = 'y' = . ... . -S'-.W ' .

. . . . z . ' r . .. .= @ '. . .'..'. . .' ''.u'.f -1!'t';' é: (7-=rrc = * t:r -' akxxl/l/bb 11*1' -? :1 1) = . .. . . . . . . ..v:vzk:j JN/. . . . . . x. aa.ys. u, % : .. =:-

Procedure:

Add 2mI of buffer solution (NH4OH+NH4CI) to 100mI of the original water

sample. Add 3-4 drops of Eriochrome Black T indicator (0.2g dye in 15ml oftriethanol amine + 5mI of ethanoll/ ltablet (making powder) total hardnessindicator.

Titrate against 0.01M prepared EDTA solutions in burette until the color charges

from wine red (or violet) to pure blue (or turquoise) with no reddish tone; thencalculate the total hardness in terms of ppm of CaCOa.

Table: Experimental data

AverageNumber of Initial burette Final burette Difference

valueObse-ation reading (mI) reading (mI) (mI) (

mI)1

2

3

4

5

Calculation..

Volume of O.O1M EDTA solution in m lTotal hardness = x 1000 ppm of CaCOa.

Volum e of sam ple water in ml

Result..

3.6.2 Estimation of total hardness of supply water by soap m ethod

Basic principle..

Soap method is another popular method evolve to determine the total hardness

of hard water. In this method W ankly's standard soap is used to ensure 1ml of

this soap is equivalent to 1.0mg CaCO3.

'.r!' ' ' - 1 2: 11 t.t .z. & b ' % 4: é:R = il ' . .iz .z u . J J LI rtGlun 1 ' ' '. . . 4J, ' g . - .t ;>.-= .(j4. . ..xCi .. . . . . . f ..' ' . = .. =. .'g4: ' .Rj&. yglf: .. ' ,.@<J%. . ... 5!:4!1r v' .. . . V .ir .'z . .A J.y&.I ...1 . ! . l'Jo % . ' 1''- I . . ' '$.x. . . . : . s. . jt xo ! . '> 'c>:y...vr.'=M J a -E Mé.LI .ZG,V - L> * --%. 11 R fp4eàs kfs .:&-. > k ' ' b . 'i ' il > s n q . ii B VI'L' ' r .G' U*w = 'v ' ' = ' a A= ==: -;+ f ' ' 7 ' 6 J J t # ' ' ' ', ...i .. =. . . . . =.w. . +-w='w=. .. = x. J œ . .rsr w )u ' d = . .t. a+ ' - '' . . ' . . '

Procedure:Take 100ml of hard water in a bottle. Run standard soap solution from burette

(1mI at a time), until a Iather is obtained on shaking which covers the wholesurface and persists for one minute.Let, the titrated soap solution on 100mI water is T ml.

Since, 1mI standard soap solution = 1.0 mg CaCOzSo, T ml standard soap solution = Tx1.0 mg CaCOa = 0.001T gm CaCOa.

Therefore, loopads of water contain 0.001T parts of CaCOz. Itaking 1.0ml H2O =1.0gm H2QAnd 10,00000 (lmillion) pads of water contain ((0.001Tx10,00000)/100J = 10Tpads of CaCOa.

Thus, total hardness of that water = 10T ppm of CaCOz.

Result:

3.6.3 Determination of tem/oral hardness of supply waterBasic principle..This can be estimated by titration of sample water against standard solution of

hydrochloric acid (0.05N HCI).

Pteparation of 0.05N HCI..Molecular weight of HCL = 1 + 35.5 = 36.5& Equivalent weight of HC1 = 36.5

Therefore,

1000 ml of IN HCI contain 36.5 gm HCI

1000 ml of 0.05N HCL contain (36.5 x 0.05) or 1.825 gm HCI

So, 100 ml of 0.05N HCl contain 0.1825 gm HCI

Let, the concentration of diluted HCI is 350:, then

35 gm HCl present in 100 ml of diluted HCl

& 0.1825 gm HCI present in ((100 x 0.1825)/35) or 0.528 ml diluted HCI

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Figure: Determination of temporary hardness.

Procedure:Add 1cc or 2 - 3 drop (from the solution of (0.1 gm solid methyl orange + 100ccdistilled waterl) methyl orange indicator to 100mI of fresh distilled water & titrateagainst 0.05N HCI. Let the titration reading be 'a' mI.

Now titrate 100 ml of the sample water against 0.05N HCI using the same

indicator (methyl-orange). Let the titration reading 'b' ml.

Observation:Reading should be taken when the color of indicator change orange to red.

Table: Experimental data for reading 'a'

Number of Initial burette Final burette Difference Average value

Obse-ation reading (mI) reading (mI) (mI), 'a' (mI), 'a'

12

a .

4

5

, <

, . r u;u vps.xxrxyrsyj j. (y .y y .' ' ' . l=X- )qj @L ê-. . - i. :.è.y1.. ' .'L- k . g L ; ; J .

' . . - . . .. . .' ! 'd ?? 9109; L%-lf z-''i'--1VViêVl 31'-..*' ' ' ' - --'.ï ' ' C ' ' F -'; ' . ' ' '. . . .L. F.x - .r.-. . ....x.- - . .. .

Table: Experimental data for reading ':'

Number of Initial burette Final burete Dilerence Average value

Obsewation reading (ml) reading (ml) (mI), $b' (ml)! 'b'

1

2

3

4

5

Calculation..

Temporary hardness = sotb-alxo.osx loooppm (in terms of cacoa)1oo

3.6.4 Determ ination of permanent hardness of supply water

(by di-sodium salt of EDTA)

Preparation of 0.01M or 0.02N EDTA solution..

Molecular weight of di-sodium salt of EDTA

(CHaCOOHI: (N:CHa):(CH2COONa)a.2H2O= (12+1*2+12+16*2+1)x2 + 14*2+(12+2)*2+ (12+1*2+12+16*2+23)x2 + 2*18= 118+ 28+28+162+36

= 372

Therefore,

In IM solution of 1000mI contain 372 gm NaZ-EDTA

In 0.01M solution of 1000mI contain 3.72 gm NaZ-EDTA


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Preparation of ammonia btlffer solution..

145m1 of Iiquor ammonia (NH4OH) of specific gravity 0.88+15gm NH4CI

distilled water to make 250m1 solution to give a pl-l of 10.

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Figure: Determination ofparmanent hardness.

Procedure:

Take 100mI of sample water in a conical flask; boil it (around 30 minutes) to

about 50 ml; cool and filter to remove bicarbonate residual (temporary hardness)and to expel carbon dioxide. Dilute it to by distilled water to make 100 mI. Add

2mI of ammonia buffer solution followed by one tablet of hardness indicator.

Titrate against 0.01M prepared EDTA solutions from burette until the color

charges from wine red (or violet) to pure blue (or turquoise) with no reddish tone;

then calculate the hardness in terms of ppm of CaCOa.


AverageNumber of Initial burette Final burette Difference

valueObservation reading (ml) reading (ml) (mI)

(m1)1

2 ,

3

4

5

Calculation:

Volume of 0.O1M EDTA solution in m lTotal hardness = x 1000 ppm of CaCOa.Volum e of sam ple water in m l

Result:

3.6.5 Preparation of hard water in Iaboratory

4A) Temporary hardness:Take 1000mI distilled water in a flask and dissolve 100mg of Ca(HCOa)2 and

100mg of Mg(HCO3)z.

Therefore,

Hardness for Ca(HCO3)2 = 100 ppm of Ca(HCOa)2 hardnessAnd Hardness for Mg(HCOa)2 = 100 ppm of Mg(HCOa)2 hardness

But hardness in terms of CaCO3 for Ca(HCG )2 =

Ca(HCO3)2 hardness x Molecular wt. of CaCO3Molecular weight of Ca(HCO3)2

100x10O=

182

= 61.72 ppm

And hardness in terms of CaCOa for Mg(HCOz)2

MgtHco3lzhardness xMolecular M .of CaCO3= *

Molecular weight of Mg(HCO3)2

1OOx100=

1 46

= 68.5 ppm

Therefore, total temporary hardness

= Hardness for Ca(HCOa)2 + Hardness for Mg(HCOa)2= 61.72 + 68.5

= 130

(B) Permanent haMness:Take 1000ml distilled water in a flask and dissolve 100mg of CaCl2 and 100mg

of MgCI2.

Therefore,

Hardness for CaCI2 = 100 ppm of CaCI2 hardness

And Hardness for MgCI2 = 100 ppm of MgCI2 hardness

But hardness in terms of CaCOa for CaCI2 =

CaCl2 hardness xM olecular w t.of CaCO3M olecular weight of CaCI2

100x100=

11O

= 91 ppm

And hardness in terms of CaCOa for MgCl2 =

M gCI2 hardness xM olecular w t.of CaCO3Molecular weight of M gCI2

10Ox10O=

94

= 106.5 ppm

Therefore, total permanent hardness

= Hardness for Caclc + Hardness for MgCI2

= 91 + 106.5 ppm of CaCOa

= 197.5 ppm of CaCO3

Total hardness:

Take 1000mI distilled water in a flask and dissolve Ca(HCOa)z, Mg(HCOz)2,CaCI2 and MgCI2 each of 100mg.

From previous derivation the total hardness in terms of CaCOa = 61.72. + 68.5 +

91 + 106.5 = 327.5 ppm of CaCOa

3.6.6 Rem oval of water hardness by EDTA

Preparation of 0.01M or 0.02N EDTA solution:

Molecular weight of disodium salt of EDTA

(CHZCOOHIC N2(CH2)2(CH2COONa)2.2H2O= (12+1*2+12+16*2+1)x2 + 14*2+412+2)*2+ (12+1*2+12+16*2+23)x2 + 2*18= 118+ 28+28+162+36= 372

Therefore,

In IM solution of 1000mI contain 372 gm NaZ-EDTA


In 0.01M solution of 100ml contain 0.372 gm NaZ-EDTA

Preparation of ammonia ôtlffer solution..

145m1 of Iiquor ammonia (NH4OH) of specific gravitydistilled water to make 250m1 solution to give a PH of 10.

0.88+15gm NH4CI +

Pœparation of EDTA solution:For preparing EDTA solution, 1gm or 1000mg EDTA dissolve in 100mI distilled

water.

So, 100 ml of the EDTA solution contain 1000mg of EDTA& 1mI of the EDTA solution contain lomg EDTA.

Procedure:

Step - 1: Titrate ((100mI sample water + 2mI ammonia buler solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 0.0mg of EDTA) in a conical flaskl against 0.01Mprepared EDTA solution from burette.

Step - l1: Titrate I100ml sample water + 2ml ammonia btlffer solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 1mI EDTA solution (10mg of EDTA) in a conical flask)against 0.01M prepared EDTA soltltion from burette.

Step - 111: Titrate I100mI sample water + 2ml ammonia btller solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 1.5mI EDTA solution (15mg of EDTA) in a conicalflask) against 0.01M prepared EDTA solution from burette.

Step - IV: Titrate I100mI sample water + 2ml ammonia buffer solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 2mI EDTA solution (20mg of EDTA) in a conical flask)against 0.01M prepared EDTA solution from burette.

Step - V: Titrate I100mI sample water + 2mI ammonia btl#er solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 2.5m1 EDTA solution (25mg of EDTA) in a conicalflaskl against 0.01M prepared EDTA solution from burette.

This process will continue until fully removal of water hardness.

Now need to find out the water hardness for evel step and obseae the

decrease of hardness due to addition of EDTA.

Table: Experimental dataInitial Final Hardnessbureûe Dilerence

Addition of EDTA bureûe (ppm ofreading (in mI)readlng (mI) CaCOa)(mI)

Step -1 (without EDTA)Step -II (10mg EDTA)Step -111 (15mg EDTA)Step -IV (20mg EDTA)Step -V (25mg EDTA)

Calculation :Volum e of 0.01 M EDTA solution in m l

Total hardness = Volum e of sam ple woier in ml x 1000 ppm of CaCO3.

Resultlsl:1) Normal hardness of sample water = X ppm of CaCO3 (found from step -l)ll) Removed hardness for addition of lomg EDTA in the sample water = (X -' hardness in step -11) ppm of CaCOa111) Removed hardness for addition of 15mg EDTA in the sample water = (X -

hardness in step -111) ppm of CaCOz1% Removed hardness for addition of 20mg EDTA in the sample water = (X -

hardness in step -lV) ppm of CaCOzV) Removed hardness for addition oi 25mg EDTA in the sample water = (X -

hardness in step -V) ppm of CaCOa

3.6.7 Removal of water hardness by Calgon (Sodium hexameta phosphate)Pœparation of 0.01M or 0.02N EDTA solution:

Molecular weight of di-sodium salt of EDTA

(CHZCOOHIZ N2(CHa)a(CHaCOONa)2.2HaO= (12+1*2+12+16*2+1)x2 + 14*2+412+2)*2+ ('l2+1*2+12+16*2+23)x2 + 2*18= 118+ 28+28+162+36= 372

. . . u . . .. . h. x. .- 7c. . r :k = @q& z e - .. . . . . . = x. 1 . . . Lz c-y -s=. rr. Qkxx#se. .h= Sr.s-p.l:-s' ' z -' ' ' ' ' U. ' =' = RY -- ''. . - . . z i ; : . . . r z.-vbzq.+. . = JfL =* è. . . . . . . . w o ..: u'gsy r 4 g 7.+ = '- = . . . = i .u . . e= L.u.v- T> - - h:b: ç. ..c'''.'e

. . , . .. .. . . w) = = . . . ...g +

'

, ; .p.= :xu. . . . . . . . .%- .11% = e v v .. . . Q . . . -. . . .a u .zk lp >' .@- . =

Therefore,In IM solution of 1000mI contain 372 gm NaZ-EDTAln 0.01M solution of 1000mI contain 3.72 gm NaZ-EDTAIn 0.01M solution of 100mI contain 0.372 gm NaZ-EDTA

Preparation of ammonia bu#er solution..

145mI of liquor ammonia (NH4OH) of specific gravitydistilled water to make 250m1 solution to give a pH of 10.

0.88+15gm NH4CI +

Pœparation of Calgon (sodium hexameta phosphate, (Na4(Na2(POa)èl) solution:For preparing Calgon solution, 1gm or 1000mg Calgon dissolve in 100mI distilled

water.

So, 100 ml of the Calgon solution contain 1000mg of Calgon& 1mI of the Calgon solution contains lomg Calgon.

Proceduœ :Step - 1: Titrate ((100mI sample water + 2mI ammonia bufer solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 0.0mg of Calgon) in a conical flpskl against 0.01Mprepared EDTA solution from burette.Step - II: Titrate I100ml sample water + 2mI ammonia buffer solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 1ml Calgon solution (10mg of Calgon) in a conicalsask) against 0.01M prepared EDTA solotion from burette.

Step - 111: Titrate (100mI sample water + 2mI ammonia buffer solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 1.5mI Calgon solution (15mg of Calgon) in a conicalflask) against 0.01M prepared EDTA solution from burette.

Step - IV: Titrate I100mI pample water + 2mI ammonia buffer solution + 1 tablet

total hardness indicator + 2mI calgon solution (20mg of Calgon) in a conical

flask) against 0.01M prepared EDTA soltltion from burette.

Step - V: Titrate (100mI sample water + 2mI ammonia buffer solution + 1 tablettotal hardness indicator + 2.5m1 Calgon solution (25mg of Calgon) in a conical

flaskl against 0.01M prepared EDTA solution from burette.

This process will continue until fully removal of water hardness.

Now need to find out the water hardness for every step and observe thedecrease of hardness due to addition of Calgon.


Initial FinalHardness

bureûe burette DiferenceAddition of Calgon (ppm of

reading reading (in mI) caCOa)(mI) (mI)

Step -1 (without Calgon)Step -II (10mg Calgon)Step -111 (15mg Calgon)Step -IV (20mg Càlgon)Step -V (25mg Calgon)Calculation: '

Volum e of 0.01M EDTA solution in m lTotal hardness= x1000 ppm of CaCOa

.Volum e of sam ple water in m l

Resultlsl:

1) Normal hardness of sample water = X ppm of CaCOa (found from step -I)II) Removed hardness for addition of lomg Calgon in the sample water = (X -

hardness in step -11) ppm of CaCOa111) Removed hardness for addition of 15mg Calgon in the sample water = (X -

hafdness in step -111) ppm of CaCOzIV) Removed hardness for addition of 20mg Calgon in the sample water = (X-

hardness in step -IV) ppm of CaCOzV) Removed hardness for addition of 25mg Calgon in the sample water = (X -

hardness in step -V) ppm of CaCOa

Nole.' the use of 0. 125 g/l Calgon F will remove the equivalent of 1 * dH Germarl hardness fromwater.

U-lwsJ'xlf'd' ' '' ''L .. . ..lJ; . . . .. . . = .c ! : .y yz-ntAt. . .: gg). ..:à. ..= . r . . 77 :.. z.;t .. . . . vx . . r 4'u > '. 2!- JL'T .' t.7 -'. . =& .ad M izrw F.. :L . . .

. . s . . . : :: z. = .a- w -... .91. . r.I. .$!s. .2... ué - ' , ' . x,Pretreat *' . ...'',1/*. ,''' . ; ' ' .. . ; . ,. t . . .... . 1; .. . r . . . . La '=; . h > 7 L.;fa J J' ' J '; ' ' ' . . Yè f ''l '' ' t * '. . , .. . .ï - . - . . -v.x .. (-ut . .-- . ...-- x .. .

4 Pretreatm ent and dyeing of

cötton goods

4.1 Desizing of cotton

Desizing is the process of removal of sizing materials from the goods applied for

specific benefits of production. Generally, sizing is done by applying starch

materials in warp yarn before weaving. The other size materials are PVA

(polyvinyl alcohol), CMC (carboxymethyfcellulose), Polyacrylic (water-soluble saft

of acrylic acid) and polyester (water-dispersible polyester-based materials).

4.1.1 Enzymatic desizingAlmost aII woven fabrics are sized with starch. Sometimes some garments need

to desize before dyeing. The size starches are removed by the enzymatic

degradation with bacterial amylases (usually Amylase Enzymes). For successfulenzymatic desizing embraces four phases such as preparation of desizing

mixture, saturation, digestion and washing. Efficient desizing with alpha-amylase

enzyme requires:

thorough impregnation (saturation) of the garment with the enzyme solution,

i.e concentration.

a digestion period for the starch to be conveded to soluble materials i.e.

time002E

proper temperature, i.e. temperature

proper PH

efficient washing/ rinsing to wash out the degraded starch naterials.

55

The desizing process can be done in two ways - the normal temperature method

and high temperature method. ln the normal temperature processes, desizing

agents are applied at 60 - 700C. On the other hand, desizinj can done in hightemperature by the application of desizing agent at 90 -1000C in a short period of

treatment time. According to the biological source, enzymes are two types -

1 . Animal / Pancreatic', e.g. Degomma, Novofermosol, Trypsin, Viveral, etc.

2. Vegetable', they are two types such as -

i) Malt extract', e.g. Diastase, Deglatol, Gabalit, Maltoferment etc.ii) Bacterial; e.g. Acry, Biolase, Rapidase etc.

Desizing conditions of diferent enzymes

ConcentrationType of enzyme Temperature (@C) pH value

(9mPPancreatic 50 - 55 7.0 - 7.5 1.0 - 5.0

Malt extract 55 - 60 5.5 - 6.5 3.0 - 20.0

Bacterial 65 - 75 5.5 - 7.5 0.5 - 3.0

& Normal temperature methodTypical desizing reclpe -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Sequestering agent = if necessary

Lubricant =1 - 2 g/I

Common salt = 2 - 4 g/I

Acetic acid

Enzyme

Calcium chloride

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/I= 1 .0 - 3.0 g/I

= 0.2 - 0.4 g/I (or hard water of approx. 6.250 Bh)= 60 - 70OC

= 30 - 45 min

= 6.0 - 7.0

= 1 .. 1 0

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Figure: Process ctzrve (Enzymatic desizing - normal temperature method)

Procedure -1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent,

Iubricant, acetic acid, soda ash (if necessary for maintaining desired pH).Add appropriate amount of pnzyme (alpha-amylase).If necessary add small amount of common salt or calcium chloride to

provide enzyme solution stability to temperature.4. Raise the temperature to 60 - 70C or according to vender recommendation.5. Run the bath for 30 - 45 minutes at 60 - 70C.6. Cool down and drop.7. Rinse twice at 60OC for 3 minutes and normal temperature for 3 minutes;

then proceed for next operations.

57

.; Tr . .. . 5 . . c .nb : l , . ;!, . r ujtq ztityi. 1:. ik (,42 .- rqnal gskrc/t.xfhs.lrz :;hk.)i 12,,j4.. .u a - . .u z..!.)-.z. . ) z' zq . . . . . .d. .'i? j:c. '.E n .: j (. . àt2. ., pyj.a i$;.. th-k;.:/;k);i -.:c . . ,r ë -N1 -rJ 'L () -zC . . s &: E . .. . .' . . .'V'' f ':''. x. : j ..1( 'E ' itè 1 y %. . .1:. ù(' ' ' ' ' ' ''' L'h: ' ' ''' z' 't' ( ' '; l 9,,:,,- - ' -k <t.' .:.j' ti-,t4. jk ).:-. ?,. - i.. .. .

f. i-tk :.-,.k9:2 #!.j..:;2.,y,j

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B) High temperature method

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Lubricant

Common salt

Acetic acid (800/0)Desizing agent (enzyme)Calcium chloride

Temperature

Time

pH

M:L

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 2.0 - 4.0 g/î

= 0.1 - 0.3 g/I

= 3.0 - 6.0 g/I

= 0.2 - 0.4 g/I (or hard water of approx. 6.250 Bh)= 1000C

= 10 - 15 min

= 6.0 - 7.0

= j ..j c

58

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'

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*L e.*lt ' .j . . . .1 ' ' V ' ' ' '' '.c mon salt . , . . .l r k .(. . !.;. . . . g. . .1 : ' *. ' ' 'r *Acetlc Aftld '1 .E e E ' ' '!

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Figure: Process c&lve (enzymatic desizing - high temperature method)

Procedure -Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent,

Iubricant, acetic acid, soda ash (if necessary for maintaining desired pH, 6 -7).

2. Add appropriate amount of desizing agent (enzyme).3. lf necessary add small amount of common salt or calcium chloride to

provide enzyme solution stability to temperature.4. Raise the temperature to 95 100C or according to vender

recommendation.59

(lt(7 , ;.y,,g ' ', (y ' (( j ' '(t ( . j . yjtyjy' Ty.k,.(jj(..y. ..( jy jjyy è y, yjjjjyqqjqyyjjqy'' jyy oj x jj-i . . .? . r i. -- .. y. r)à t!r t (qy, .g)-:s -. . . L. ) y ).. , ; , . ...: ... y rry ,.:u,,ytyt)r g.. ... ... .. .. . ... .- . . . ... . -. . . .. ty : . . , . ,. . .)-@ :g ( .ï ) ( . . y,

5. Run the bath for 10 - 15 minutes at 95 - 100C.

6. Cool down and drop.

Rinse twice at 600C for 3 minutes and normal temperature for 3 minutes',

then proceed for next operations.

4.1.2 Oxydative desizing

(Hydrogen perox/de method)The desizing with hydrogen peroxide offers several advantages. It can break the

ring structure of starch and produce higher oxidative smaller fragments. It also

cleaves the PVA sizes, which are not broken down by amylase enzymes.

Oxidative processes are considerably faster than biological processes and

where the Wcles are short.

Fyp/ca/ rec/pe (for Starch/ PVA sizes) (with Silicate) -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Sequestering agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Soda ash = 3.0 - 5.0 g/I

Sodium silicate, 4208e = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), 35% = 4.0 - 6.0 g/ITemperature = 65 - 75C

Time = 15- 30 min

PH = 10 - 11

M:L = 1:10

69

... u' . .. P 8: x h*z.-J9l2. . .:.vhz.1'MZ. . . r'yTz- .. . - -. e. . . . . . pqfl::. .. -1Q:'(! c/àe4<j.lkg':wy:i N' < ùrv' ..l.sn.'j . : a u...' . ..u:'. . < 1'tH - v- -..i œ'r. . ==-. 4! :C. .. . . . .. . .. @%= +> u-x . - Q );.:j..0 .g. a)j;.. . ''.j.w' M-qhj. â;1j. . 8'y = v' n eJ 'J . . = . . . )k.re rea en :2' ' '.. - , ', u-'a-' - ' . ' '-''h'zx- --'':l'hu'*''''. , . . - r..... . ,,. . .. ,.t .,- ,-c.:' - . zu . .'c;: u 2.!.. œ -= #s- w .. . .. ; #;.twr!. . =-'v..u .; V ,. 'Jz'ejM:ljWax:. èy , : . . t =. . . E . : . . > A z .ZL. Jz- . 5 . . .<.. . . ' > . j

Flture: Process ctz/ve (oxydative (peroxide) desizing of cotton)

Procedure -

Set the bath with substrate at 35 - 40C temperature and add wetting agent,

sequestering agent, sodium silicate, and soda ash for maintaining desired

pH around 10.5. .

2. Add appropriate amount of enzyme and raise the temperature to 70 - 75C.



61

. t'' y. k'' y t 'L(yj oj 1 xj).-7 L'LL '.)7F::..' E,ks: ::J .1-;' .' '( : '' .-:-'. :b: 1' ...' . .'. ' ' '., ;. .w ..u. , t -h.. ..r.. ' . . . . .. . . . nz Ak-e' .u. =4. .r-œ!7#XL7

5. Rinse twice at 600C for 5 - 10 minutes and normal temperature for 5 -10

minutes.

6. If next step is alkali scouring or bleaching, proceed next step; if next step is

not alkali scouring or bleaching, add 0.5 g/I - 1.0 g/I acetic acid (56Yo) forneutralization at 40 - 50 OC for 5 minutes. Then drop the bath.

4.1.3 Testing of desizing elect (Iodine Test)After desizing the fabric need to check for confirmation of size removal. lt is very

impodant because the size materials, present in fabric can hinder the absorption

of dyes and other chemicals in next processing. The following test can show the

presence of starch and /or PVA in fabric:

A. Starch - Make a 0.02 N iodine solution where added few crystals of

potassium iopide. Put one or two drops of this iodine solution on the fabric.

Observation: The presence of starch will create bluish to violet color stain on

fabric.

B. Starch/pvA - Three solutions need to prepare for this test.

a) Solution no. 1: Take 10mI 0.1N iodine, 100mI l,4-dioxane, and 1gm boricacid. After boiling the solution for 30min, add necessary amount of 1,4-

dioxane to make it to 100mI, and then add 7mI distilled water.

b) Solution no. 2: This is make up by adding 52gm potassium chromate, 735 mlsulfuric acid, and 265m1 distilled water.

c) Solution no. 3: This is make up by taking 39gm sodium hydroxide in acontainer and make it to 100mI solution by adding necessary amount of

distilled water.

62

. , @ . . . . : . ! . . r bt . ' ' ' ' ' . ' . 5 ' ' .' . :.) è . ,2 -J.q -'ksJ/ .z, Lzz J> S. .k#a'1#J7-fiQ-Y.x -u.!,.> . s . . .t - ' . ' ' . u. s . r (è . ( -... l ; . ' r . jj E' ..:1' . ' - ' . .. . . : . 'IF:I' Ir.llElh 11t Il-dlE!h 11!11 1Ik7 1I-lr111 41218 lrqlktll: ''1lE11L.. . -11:1t- .

'41:Il-..'qrt;t( . - ., k -.y y.?!,,s.: :; tI1)1t-. .- rsyyt--c7il:lp.qL-yy-ky''

,-:'11!24...3,:..-.,

'

..rq.k)'.

.

.- .r;

'

,- - :,j;7,,yt. -

s- .y.,.'

..;..:q,E

.-...,. . . : ,.'

u. .. ..-. ... -

'

.

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.

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.

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as,'

.. . . . . . . ! .

'

. .. .. ,f,,'-q'ht7-,'

,''7':2-?i-p#

Observation:1. Solution no.l produces a violet or blue stain on fabric that indicates both

starch and PVA present in fabric.2. Add ldrop of solution no. 2 on fabric and immediately add 3drops of solution

no. 3 on it. Rub the created stain with the end of a glass rod. A brown

coloration confirms the presence of PVA and a yellow or yellow-green color

indicates the presence of starch.

4.2 Scouring of cottonThe natural impurities of cellulosic fibers are normally removed (scoured) byboiling off in a strong alkaline solution. The natural impurities such as mineral

matters, oils, waxes, ashes hinder the penetration of dyes and chemicals to the

interior of fibers; results the huge wastage of dyes and chemicals and improper

scouring creates the uneven dyeing. Alkali (caustic & soda ash) treatment withauxiliaries at high temperature removes the inherent and added impurities from

cotton and other cellulosic fibers such as hemp, ramie, kenaf, Iinen, jute.Although all of cellulosic fibers treatments are similar but the coricentration of

alkalis and process parameter should be adjusted according to composingamount and structure of impurities. Due to removal of these impurities includingoiI and waxes the goods become more absorbent. Below the comparative fiber

composition (% amount of fiber component) of different cellulosic fibers:

Substances Textile FibersCotton Linen Hemp Ram ie Jute

Celiulose 82.7 62.4 67.0 68.8 64.4Hemicellulose 5.0 17.2 16.1 13.1 22.0

Pectins 0.7 2.3 0.8 1.9 0.3Lignins 0 2.5 3.3 0.6 11.8Soluble 1.0 3.9 2.1 5.3 1.2

substanceFats 0.6 1.7 0.7 0.3 0.3

Note: The composing parf may e'ary for r??o/lW&re content and growing region.

61

a'slt)è Y@CQ lùqflj J' I'î'J ?';èI'' '. '' ' 6'f1' 'E.:. .. g t, k: . .., . s(. .. . .u.. .. - .

, y tjow, , ; ol . 1)tp <.s lj)jrJ*ré'#=AD' 'J! ii f xci.it:. '''ïs9):'tu ë'. . . . -f. - . . '

Based on type and form of materials a series of chemicals are used in scouring

bath. Usually the scouring bath consists essentially of a caustic material and a

surfactant, at Ieast 0.01 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the

scouring bath, of a solubilizing agent which is amino tritmethylene phosphonicacid). The key chemicals used for scouring process of different fibers and theirfunctions are given below:

Chem icals Functions

Caustic soda (NaOH) Neutralizes acidic materials, saponify glycerides

(waxes and oils), solubilizes silicateSoda ash Do

Sodium silicate Penetrate and breakdown Iignin in motes. These

are added, commonly when fabrics have Iarge

contents of motes and other assorted materials

Sudactants Reduce surface tension and interfacial tension',

helps to wet out the materials with Iiquid

Detergents Emulsify fats, oils, and waxes', remove oiI borne

stains', suspend materials after they have been

removed

Sequestering agent Deactivate metal ions

Builder (salt) Cause detergents to become increasingly effectiveSolvent Assists emulsification by dissolving oily materials

Typical reclpe -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Detergent = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

Sequestering agent = 1.0 -3.0 g/I

Caustic soda (36OBe) = 2.0 - 4.0 g/I

. .. . . .. . a . . , . j . . - . . . a ,y .q .u ..r c .as.ax..w . . . zor'a.a zx- ..w!4. x.u 1 a : . . . z-zpjxq .4 'qq . <e#..? ''gf-e = 'à '.z. . . . (. . .. . . : . . , - - - . ,. uy.l....:z.u-ulîsw . : it w s.x ;

, . - ,. - . . as.a . ., . ,. n - x,e..- . . -. & , ... . . . k u . . s. . : . . , - , , .. . . r . = . . . z . . z . r . . ' . ..==n x = aTz=.- . .V.% K T Q : 1-. . b 5 ' e. . . ..k . gé j;.c 1. . .. .- . =.. cx V'uzd.fiR'i . o .- u<.. xr;u i qxà k!v=m.= . .. z . u.. . ..; ** q. . s. . . w .' =el %= . .n2 2:5:4, . . :. ' .â'.. ' h t( .: ; u . k . . .. -. x a . . v- za . Jf :xxx. ' =àL - v xx ;lA. . p . . . .. j . . . . ' : . - . <k+'Y 'w+> = 11 = ' +'' '=' v '

= 95 - 100 QC

= 15 - 45 min

= 10.5 - 1 1.0

= 1 : 1 0

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

Figure: Process ctzae (scouring of cotton)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,

sequestering agent and detergent.

œ 65

2. Add alkalis and raise the temperature to 95 - 100C @ 2 - 3c/minute.3. Run the bath for 15 - 45 minutes.

4. Cool down the bath temperature to 70 - 80C and drop.

5. Rinse twice with hot (around 70C) and cold water.6. Neutralize with acetic acid treatment or carry out next processes.

Nofe.' Milder scouring in a soda ash alkaline bath will be sumcient for knits or blends with synthetic

fibres. Here should mention that after scouring the materials will be rinsed at 80 - 90*C, i.e. above

the melting point of waxes. This prevents the dispersed eaxes from becoming redeposited on the

goods al excessively Iow temperature, which causes noticeable devastation of the subsequent

dyeing. So in the case of mild scouring material should treated with mild alkali (e.g. Soda ash 1 - 3g/0 at 95 - 100*C and time vary from 10 - 20 minutes; rinse as usual.

4.3 Testing of scouring e/ect

Successful scouring ensures the better dye absorption into fiber. lt can be

assessed in different ways. In practice, estimation of scouring effect can be

carried out one of the following tests:

1. Measurement of weight Ioss

2. Absorbency test

- Immersion test

- Drop test

- W icking/column test

3. Measurement of methylene blue absorption

4. Measurement of copper number

5. Measurement of protein content

6. Measurement of wax content

66

. . . ' . .'. '.:

':

' . ' '' '

. . '

j) (y . ' . J - d. )) ' y.' ( . n; : .. . :(Jy.y.j;( :j . % ..' . , y.. dlk:ïllk . dll:tllk y. f.lE'l,t i. q:.y . 2. . - ,.q- --..--..kp.iii:,titi4$;ii'''- t . ..--,.' '..'

.. .i-tlIiii1iii-tq----,- itl::iiir. .. ...-,rà- . -)tt:. , . . . :-,t - --#--.

'

-- . . . .1'.2.11,. .--k, ( -

'..: .-ë -. --.. -è. .

'

. . - . -) -:t'-: ?.è .---- .. . .. .- -è . .:.- ,. - . .Pretreatm ent an

1. Measurem ent of weight IosseADuring scouring textife fibers loss a remarkable amount of impurities (oil, fats,waxes, salts etc.). Thus, the textile goods Ioss some weight respect to removedimpurities. The scouring effect can be evaluated based on this weight Ioss of

fiber. Usually, it is calculated from the difference of unscoured and scoured

sample weight at the same m oisture content, then it is measured in percentage.

% weight loss of the sample = (lsample weight before scouring - sample weight

after scouringl/ sample weight before scouring) x 100

Result:The standard weight Ioss scoured cotton fabric is 4 - 8 0A (sometimes 9%).

W hen the weight loss percentage is Iess than 4% , then it said the fabric is not

well scoured - not acceptable.

W hen the weight loss percentage is more than 8% , then it said the fabric is

damaged due to over scoured - not acceptable,

2. Absorbency test

A. lmmersion testAfter scouring, absorbency of the fabric is increased significantly - a scoured

sample will take less time to be inlm ersed into water than an unscoured sample.

A predetermined sample (1 cm x 1 cm sized) is put gently on the surface of freshwater. Then the time in seconds is recorded by a stopwatch for submerge the

sample into water.

Result:The standard time for immersion is 5 seconds and up to 10 second is

acceptable.67

B. Drop test

This test is very popular and easy to execute within a short time. In this method,

a 0.1 % dired red solution is used. A drop of the dye solution is taken by a

pipette or glass rod and put softly onto the sample surface. The nature of the

absorption is observed carefully. Two thinks should be considered -

. The time for absorption the drop

* The shape of the absorbed area on the sam ple sudace

Result:

a. A standard scoured sample will take 0.5 - 1.0 sec for absorption of the drop.

b. If the àbsorbed area forms a uniform circle and Iess area of spreading -indicates even but incoMplete scouring.

Ob. Dye sm t

lf the absorbed area form s a bigger and uniform circle - indicates even and

complete scouring.

c. Dye spot

. . . ç k, lk ; - = % :. . ' . '. . :y- g =kv- ' , r ' - =-.s = ' t.- . ' . ' .g. Q . ' . ' ''. . . . ) . < . : . x . a . -w xy. + . 4. . . a J . 4 i . ' *F -= <' .K. ' . u > :gçasméve. . . . . , , . . g s . .* l - 4. zm . - - . w. K ; . . uw u. . ( . . . . . .

d. lf the spot shape is irregular - indicates uneven scouring.

d. Dye spot

C. Wicking/ column testIt's a very reliable test for measuring the scouring effect. A predetermined

sample (18 cm x 5 cm sized) and a standard dye solution (0.1% direct dye) istaken to pedorm the test. A mark is drawn at 1 cm above from the sample

bottom. Then the sample is hung from a stick and immerses the sample in the

dye solution up to 1 cm mark. Hold the sample for 5 minutes in this position. The

dye solution i: absorbed by the sample and climb upward directiop.

Result:

. Acceptable absorbing Iongth is 30 - 50 mm .

30 mm absorbing Iength means the acceptable lower limit of scouring.

40 - 45 mm absorbing Iength means good/ very good scouring.

50 mm absorbing Iength means excellent scouring.

' 1. '>. %.F T> çdq..;i... =cA!L.+ i = ='...L.é t'+)q' RQ&J uAbnb '> M ' . ' v. ' J '. 5.1% v'c u ,lJA .:= . .=.L%% .it:l: . mwn. . .=h'>'2.w =* ..Vx xmxw ' '''< r =. r' .. .- F - .' ' - - ' .'' '' .#!z@ '%JE: î.'e :2. '>G Y> .== t nqza >. : . LYW J* 'a4.n ' . ' '.+ ' . ''.' .= ' 9' ' '. .a :='a. . > . : c. - x. :p5. .4 .. .; . . . J > '. f N.. . . . HJ Ai ' ' ' ' : 'é E12.L ''P2 n* : X!GE ' ' ' ' ' * ' ' ' ': . .u- n . ./w.> . +a......w. '' .- . . = ' s .iiill;ix .' '.j;'. . :;:.,;;p(k. ..'E:,..'t'':. . ..''i-.seP. r'Ejrrx.é. .s>. Jt'NE. . ':.s,. . . . '. . ... s. . = .g-..

-. ->.-w. . .a.w..ao. .r.. .

-.. :,, ... .,.aa.,.,....... . e. q: 2:. zx.m. . .. . :.'

s.-A,.,.z . .v ..y ;es.

'' . . .'.s. . . .... . . . .

' - . . . .

.

' . II!!II ': '''' . 111114 ' tlll#, fays < . :A !1' . #

'

é . . . ' = e . Ik.. .a,. . s ..z =

4.4 Bleaching of cotton

A process by which the natural colors of textile fibers are removed to aéhieve the

whiteness for development of true color during coloration is known bleaching. lt's

an oxidation process whereby coloring matters are destroyed', it can't remove dirt

or even coloring matters. Although in dark shade this process is not compulsory

but for pale and brilliant shade it is absolutely mandatory, and for medium shade

modified Iight 'bleach is sufficient. This process can be done in several ways -

biobleach or chemical bleaching. The chemical is still very popular due to good

bleaching result. Most of bleaching agents create some adverse impact on fibre,

thus the process should be accomplished with minimum of damage to the fibres

being bleached. Strong and uncontrolled bleaching action can degrade the

cotton fibre; thus, the process must be regulated carefully.

The objectives of bleaching are:To produce uniform stable, stable basic white for goods which are to be

dyed.

To produce high degree of whiteness for white goods.

Complete removal of seed husks.

The following oxidative bleaching processes are suitable for textile processing:

A) Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) bleaching - around 900C process temperature

B) Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCI) bleaching - normal process temperature

C) Sodium chlorite (NaCIO2) bleaching - boiling process temperatureD) Bleaching powder (Ca(OCl)CI) - normal process temperature

. . z - . . ! . w . ,-..z.%.+s.J .z 'x=rf.. ,4 ù ..tlr..:tz- . e&.:p4 .:x à J- N ' - . 3 . ' f e ? 4 ' l> . - u. . . a .k . .. .: . .' . ..z.-. e-.zrwr..=. .- a=.=.... . -. ex'.- ' u.tp-.zm.4/ws. wz., XN- ..U..M rvx:y:ï''-rr-!x>.-ga', e$.:r;.j.7 .r!.v>r . uw-w'q: '. u ep

. . . e;. = - .a . . .c. s r . . u . ..k.. . . c xs . c .1> . ï r. . 4 j . #.x1 y. ... .ru . . = . . . uxuag C r C.i::H q r . ' ->G,.s''!'.-'2>i'w'-+ .i.'i;. ë'f:,;v=..- fi:cb 1

lll''''tll!!llt' III'''''II!!!IIt 111!5111E 111111116 111!11111. . 11111 . . ' ' . .' . ..-.' '

''.. ' .. . .. -k-. ,......... .:...i-.;::!r;;.. ..-. ...-

' -;p-.sr!. .:-r.,. . .,.(

'

., . .- ......... ...,.. :..::5;:.:,-:;,.::1h,.

'

. . -.:::'--.. . . :ëj-.. trkrk-h-- . '1''''j.-:'-....---'iir''-,...-?-.E:.'i'. 1'5:: -.p,?,-.-'4!''4! '''f-.'''ïï-.'''....''';),. '. 1,:21.--'-;-r,.,.::..,-.-.

'

. --.-Lï'tt. .,.lF-''.-.--... :44,:'% -'.-.r,.. ''

. . - -r''t.tr:.''F'' ....,k'-ë.-..--:'',...-'..--1'6b... Ir.. .;''-...'t11.- ''''...

3..'..' ..--','-'..,-.:.'-,-!''t... ''--'.1!!-..'ir-. '.kE.r-':i;.'' l'. ''- !'E.. ï''-,';. 1-.'''6'' '''..

The main applicationFiber Hzoz NaClOc Peracetic acid Persulphates

Cotton SB SB SB SD

Linen (Flax) SB SB SB SDJute SB SB SBC SBC

W ool SB NS SB SBC

Silk SB NS SB NS

Viscose rayon SB SB SB SD

Cupprammoniumrayon SBC SB NS NS

Polynosic rayon SB SB SB SD

Acetate CB SB SB NS

Triacetate CB SB SB NS

Polyamide CB SB SB NS

Polyester SD SB SB SD

Acrylic NS SB SB NS

Polyurethane SB NS SBC NS

areas of different bleaching agents are:

Notation: SB = suitable for bleaching; SBC = Suitable for bleaching under special conditions; CB

=compatible with Jbre shown and so may be used on blend; SD = Suitable for desizing; NS = Not

suitable for bleaching.

A) Hydrogen peroxide (H2Oz) bleachingHydrogen peroxide bleaching is most popular for bleaching of textile goods,

which give very high and stable degree of whiteness. An organic peroxide

stabilizer (usually sodium silicate) is used to stabilize the bleaching bath. W aterhardness has a positive impact on stability of bleaching bath; when the stabilizer

is used, fluctuations in the water hardness are of no importance.

71

n' -2M XI'=X'W' -'' Q * '*-LX G 'O= ' 'Ht + ' 2 : ' ''. .. . . .> .; i v..,, ' . . . !?. . '' ' ' '' . ... ! uyE : , ilrils.r'..dù ' s:. 55 '' . h..i ...E!!jr!. ; . . . >.-. . . ' .' &; ' .zit, WeG- e.''.;qî.1tî:,' . '''., t.' i r'.<-s' 'arf'es r.pr?j '*'sa. . . '1'. :; cd., llsn.j .,11..' ..' .. . . . . . . .y. ,

' é ,,. . s.-v'... ,., . 1111111. . s. $y. . . ' .. . . , ,

' . ... . . : d111ljl' ' d11'. ' '. . ar . .L.. yktyy.. ,9 if .. ,,j. . rq ëg.' .cype.çzAkR#e.' > t JD= . UKsc c4,.=1. t zlm vx ' . èdàr4ltéoapwv - .>ZY::FT . su. . .. . . T' w' dF INP'L 5: t 'u' Lè ' - ' '

To avoid catalytic damage to the goods, the works water must not contain any

heavy metal ions and the goods may not contain any metal accessories. Bath

stability is very impodant for successful bleaching otherwise it may create

adverse effect on goods. The stability of hydrogen peroxide bleach solution

depends on several factors such as -

1. pH: Hydrogen peroxide is stable in acidic condition and unstable in alkaline

solution. Thus, need to maintain a control and constant pH (not very high)during bleaching.

2. Temperature: In higher temperature hydrogen peroxide solution becomes

unstable and accelerates decomposition.

3. Buffers: Compound of silicates, phosphates, borax, proteins act as buffering

agent to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide bath.

4. Hard water: Depending upon the hardness of water and the metals making it

hard, peroxide in stable or unstable.

Metals: Ca .and Mg in the presence of silicates tend to stabilize the solution',

other metals such as Cu, Fe. etc. tend to unstabilize the hydrogen peroxidebleach solution.

Peroxide concentration: Need to maintgin constant peroxide concentration

otherwise it can decomposes the fibers.

Typical bleaching recipe -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Detergent

Stabilizer

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l

= as required

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.3 - 0.8 g/I

Caustic soda (360 Be) = 1 .0 - 3.0 g/lHydrogen peroxide (35%) = 4.0 - 8.0 g/ITemperature = 90 - 95 OC

Time = 20 - 45 min

72

. - . . y ;.L t.

. y ..:z... y. : . -. !;..ï: : : y . . . t..#rè :.()). .. /@ t.ja) . , :q; -. . .E è; qr :Ettq -: . (, yj( ï (;;y j . k - .-, ? 2.,2,..2t) r (. .. . , :..,

tll: Ilr'dl!!,k IIEIILtII:IIrIII?I.. dlEll,lll!lj tll: t1EI1k.11rl11--d1:lII' ' .1:.11' :3b43'. 'd1E!,' --11: llrlll 't1;2II '. .o.f. ''tk:)k- . f-..-.- idr:lpî' -èJItrI1r- :'-f- 1111111. '1::1..--- .1.-'.-- , ' q'*..- -'

y-'-?-ï.

t;i--,-kk'--'.j. :(..

'

.-8k: -# :-#'t-k.)t-ik-;-i

,-.--E--..;:-..', k... '..... ..q11$::11'- Ilr''e . . --.. . . . . . t . . , ... : : , . . .(. . . . ...-: 1. L, T -,- .- .- ;: tylr .. -j . 's!: . , -i.... .:'. . .. .

= 10 - 1 1

= 1 .. 1 oPH

M : L

1Q ,... . .. . .@ ' . .* . ' ' ' ' ' ' . .' '' V '' E ' n

' ' ' ' ' ' : -''' ''1' ' ' '5' ' 'V E ' 'q' ) . . i )ï' s: ' ' ' : > ..jjjjj! . ' . . . . . : . . . .. . . . ', . ' . . $ t'y

'

..jj.,y '' t !$::u. '.' '

. .,. .( . . .. ' '

. .. ... ..... (.... ;.. .'jI;1l:.

' ;',jjjj p. jIjkjIII;. . . . . .'

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. ..

.:,:.. j- ( :.-;. y. 1. y. ..2.. . :.a.. , :.., .. .... v.

& , j , .s. . ( . s ,,: y. j . ! . . . '

60 p Il ' il '2 ' . !:.. ' > '. .

1 ' '' ?' : ' ' ' ' r ' '.; ' jj, .' 'J.... L'. ' .).'

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i . T

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lj . ; . . .. . . l'. ; % . .. . :J u: .' ' . L.' t .. ,. . . . j . . L ' . ' . ' 'I ' : E ' ' Ei.', .. . ' ' ' .

I .. .. ' .. : j . : ... .j;u . . . :, ; . ... lj ' : . .. .

' kà 'i . J j: j. . . ;. .2 .. . t , t .( @ . , . . ; . .q : à . , .' . z p > .'(. ' ,r j (2;7 ' . i../à .L.) )>) :2n .' j. ' ' . . ' . .. ' .20 ! k. . .. . , . . . . . .. j . ... . ; , ... .. . . . .. . . .. .1 ' !1 . . ' . -.. . ' ' . -. ' .

. ) . . . e . . 2 .

. .' . :. è, ' E . .' . .

l ''l . l '*1 t : ' '. . . ' 1 ' ' 1

, .13040, . ,

, t .2. Q - 4., . 5. ( ,( . ' ; , , . ,

., , .. . Tlme.lmtn).

' l . . . ' . . . .

. I ' .. L . . .. . 'I . . . . ' . . . , . .

zj ' '' . ' ' i . ' ' ' fl ' ' 'I,#W. . , ' : ' .'.E'' . ' ' ..'! . ':' ' . ' ' '1 ' ' ' t ' . ' ' ' '' ' ' ' l ' ' '' '

. . . . .. . . #' . . ' ..# 'Sequte rlhg nt. I . J ! . iï. i ' . . ' . ' . .1 : : . *

'

' ' ' ' . .. . . .' ' ' -.. ' ly . ,1j: . b. tjj jj.l . . '. ' . . . ,. . ... . .( . .. ' . )) Lî' . . . g ..I ; . 't' l i ' '' : ' ' ' ' ' '

. .. 11 . 414 11:::2j.. jjjjj' jjgjl::k A' . . . . , . .)j' ' , ;. , .:. , iq ( ,.'j LL.. , .) .q ,y'. ..' ; .'. .L ! ; yr' . s lj j' .'k . . , y ... . :., .. '. .. . . . 'l 4 1) . ' . . .7 : . t

' '. I àH dfogen xlde ' .' ' :)?'1i '' 47:' Ei '' ' .' 1 $' Y . ' , : : .. ' t; :' : ' 'j . . ' . . I ' .. .. . ..

. Figure: Process ctllve (bleaching of collon with H20c)

Procedure -1 . Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with auxiliary agent,

stabilizer and caustic soda.2. Stad to raise the temperature and add hydrogen peroxide after few m inutes.

3. Raise the temperature to 90 - 95 C @ 1 - zc/minute.73

)tty' '- . '.:' '..- ' LL''. - ' ' . .J':L.:)'r, z)))- i :: .';r u L'3t- L':;(' ëx )# Et.:r2 (/Jr)JCI )y?:' ! YkE/) '' C (ty'! :' :' Jg?$è#k))))()::..''j)' . 1' 7-' 7'' . L' - ' '. '. '! (t j ; @ t .. . ( #. *9 l j jylu ;< ' jjyy.gùjxajjon @oj . j)(-'J)'(r'.!': . ': .b - 't (' ' .:.) ) (y; -;. ;.. .' :iy. .j . . .. .tè --,!'.(:ï- ttj ( jjt ; , y. !.,E j..q ?...*. .., ,Xr ,,, .:z-y.y:vn.,. ;..,, . y..- , . . . . . '' ..t .' f ;.èc . . Jl . , . è .. : ) . : : . . . . . ), . . .,. -

4. Run the bath for 20 - 45 minutes', for rapid bleaching need highertemperature and Iower time.

5. Cool down to 70C and drop the bath.

6. Peroxide killing treatment can be applied to remove residual perokide in

goods.

7. lf necessary treat

processes.

with acetic acid for neutralization or carry out next

B) Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCI) bleachingThis is cost effective bleaching process especially popular for garment

bleaching. Although the attainable degree of whiteness is not very high or very

stable, in most cases it is sufficient for goods to be dyed or as a preliminal

treatment to. hydrogen peroxide bleach for white goods. In hypochlorite

bleaching, it is advisable to carefully maintain and monitor the pH, hydrochloric

acid may form during the bleaching proc:ss itself, causing the PH to go down,and at Iower PH values hypochlorite becomes extremely destructive and harmful

to textile fibers. For safe side it is therefore advisable, after adjusting the PH with

caustic soda, to add another 2 - 4 g/I soda ash. Sodium hypochlorite bleachingis the usual method of bleaching or brightening denim adicles

.

Fyp/ca/ bleaching reclpe -W etting agent = 0.3 - 0.5 g/ICaustic Soda 36O Be = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ISoda ash

Sodium hypochlorite solution

Temperature

= 2.0 - 4.0 g/I

= 5.0 - 15.0 mI/I (with 140 - 160 g/I availablechlorine or 2.0 - 4.0% owg available chlorine)

= 25 - 60oc

74

' . réy' (;) )èt: #t..31) . L. 27 T :(:7':/. 'tèè; .d' d##1à

,, g'pf, t.ç*O,- -hk..k,,...t i;,,,,pretreatment Ap . s .. .

Time

PH range

M:L

>

L) 8@ ' ' ' '' '.. . . . ., . :r . . . 4 ..)) . . . . . y ; ... , .j . ; . . ' , . J . ' tj r . ' . ' j

'

@ (' . . . y . . ' : - ' . . è J ' . : i ' ' ' ' . , ' j y . ? . . ; . .. . . E ) . î . . 'j:, . . . . ; : . ; ,D '

q. r -, '. . ,

. 1jj111 . .j ' . . . t . . . j i . ' : .j> &i ( yi ,. . .j' ry j z ' .j 5.. y , , . . ' .., j 'jy, j , . y.' . .; . y' . . . . . ; ..> ' '' r'.

' L '. r . ' t.

' c . . ., . ... .E, i . . .... . : . . .t . . . ; : . u f .. . x t 'J .i' ' ë ' .1', .@ ;h. . . a ' ' ' E ! '. p l . I ..è: ';t'!

':: Amticlgor4

ig s .# . ' .F . .

! , .' ' 't . é . . ' T . . ' , q : ) ; , , ..j.. '.r .. !.,. , . ... ) x . . . . . . ' ...' . .. . . . . .!

'

' ! ' ': !

'

. . .

A 30 - N) ?i '' '' * * ' '''pme (m1n)( ,I .' ' . ... . . . ;l . . ' 'I . '' .1 , .Il1I .

, 1 .w ettmg agentI .' .Alkahs ;I .' .sodium h hlon'te , . ,. ' ' J ' E

Figure: Process ctzlve (bleaching of cotfon with NaOCI)

= 30 - 60 mins

= 10.5 à 0.5

= 1 .. 1 ()

Procedure -1. Set the bath with substrate at room tempeçature with auxiliary agent, alkalis

and sodium hypochlorite.

2. Adjust the temperature around 25C, and run for 30 - 60 minutes forbleaching action. But slow raising the temperature to 60O C 1or 20 - 30minutes may accelerate the bleaching operation but Iead to the risk of

possible damage to the fiber.

75

'

.jryytt. -. 'gy.... .nq - w.* .. .. . . t . . œ ' n ' ë. '- '5. ' 'iJ, . ' . ' '' ' .1)(1 ihr-ts4sl>. :,.?:! t>rrt-- -x' --.-.à.>',Q,: '''i'i1ii.. - rdiïdirr-'' .

'

. ,., .--- '-.;E,-:,,, -- . -. - ..;;. t - ..- ' -- ...-.. .- . . :.--;s -Iïk-'!.i:. .. . v-.....:-.A,'

-

-. --? t;t- -*:-.4-.. ''.. -.

-..-..*- .... .- '. .

'.' ' 11------ 11 11k* ', et t,- .

3. Drop the bath.

4. Rinsed and then given a redudive antichlor treatment (antichlor with 3.0 -5.0% owg at 50C for 10 minutes) for complete removal of chlorine. This canbe dispensed with if a hydrogen peroxide bleach is to follow.

C) Sodium chlorite (NaCIOa) bleachingIt is the most fiber-protective bleaching method and attains an optimum degree

of whiteness. This treatment is carried out in a weakly acid medium around PH 4

at a temperature of 85 to 95C for a period varying from 30 minutes to 6 hours.

However, since the bleaching Iiquor can even decay stainless 'steel and

develops toxic chlorine dioxide, this method is only rarely used. Sodium chlorite

bleaching is necessary when in addition to cotton, yellowed synthetic fibers must

also be bleached especially aqer heat-setting and scouring of synthetic and

blended goods.

Typical reclpe -Wetting agent

Detergent

Buffering salt

Sodium chlorite 80%

Temperature

Time

PH

M :L

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 3.0 g/I

= 90 - 95@ C

= 30 - 45 min

= 3.5 - 4.0 (using an organic acid; e.g. Formic acid)= j .. j 0

d. '! . X :f S' Hh ' o ''. .#. xw . s .

PW .*.n s. . *

Recomm ended PH Ievel and chlorite concentrations for bleaching of di#erent

fibers:

Fiber pH NaClOa concentration (g/lit)Cotton 4.0 - 4.5 0.5 - 1.5

Nylon 3.5 - 4.5 1.0 - 3.0

Polyester 3.0 - 3.5 3.0 - 5.0

Acrylic 2.0 - 4.0 3.0 - 7.0

Flture.. Process ctzêve (bleaching of colltm with sodium chlorite)

77

l ,i)r' 1 ' C ?s /61*. .: .Ji ;?v. k vx .'...,0* '.u V.Ifi .x=. > U?ï:ijre*. ' Kî. r12. =L=..2 ';r. J;CA ' l :. ' Z4' ' ' '' = : ' ' k' ' f œ 't! ,g. &; . :.51 . . . r. 5 'vc . . vdilpt'':v . . 4h :1' &gxq ' t: . . n' 'e: lruA;. .. . .. ih .t : : 2 Nv .'z E?s xd:.. .o. . . 7.1 . ....js..ez. .. . . j = .. E . .. . . .. v :re'l i ) . . !i . + !. ttu . x4 . . . ' . . . =. 4'- . .< . . . . . . . *. . N 4c.1*. . . . kt t . . . . - t . - ' . . . .i..p W..aG :G2.*.-./ lz>vpzrg.. ji-llm. - r. ' -' E- 's . :+ .. s m4*+-..dll 'u . ! i - . .... . . . >J ux. . z .yl!1 4*..:.s,4.. . Nx:;15w!2;&J'..'z''u.=L. xIx H= . '- J. . . . .. , xeik... . ... . . 2 1' . u! v : . w , . .. . . . zaxj. ei $ . .t'd At j . . - > q ..i: .aJ.- . - .- - . .- . .. - . .<4' li .1.iî ' .2.c1X1;?J .:k ' * 5 ' ,1 ' ::: ..z. e, tr' es -D'.ïw'.%-.iz:-z' LR-7P<*!i.''-.'.=<- . .z-= hr e : ' '' . . '

Procedure -

1 . Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,

detergent, buffering salt, and acetic acid (maintaining the pH 3.5 - 4).

2. Then add sodium chlorite and raise the temperature to 90 - 95 C @ 1zc/minute.

3. Run the bath for 30 - 45 minutes.

4. Cool down to 60 - 70C and drop the bath.

5. Rinse twice with hot and cold water.

6. Treat with a reductive antichlor agent (0.5 - 1 .0 g/I sodium bisulfite) for 15minutes to remove the residual chlorine.

7. Rinse with cold water again.

D) Bleaching powder (Calcium hypochlorite) bleachingIt is good bleàching agent but it has some adverse impact on both substrate and

equipments. It needs special care during bleaching because it is very sensitive to

air-contact and metallic equipments such as iron, cupper, nickel etc. Therefore,

during preparation of bleaching solution it needs to use close vessel maintaining

the temperature of around 250C. Bleaching with bleaching powder is not very

common in textile process; sometimes it can be use in garment bleaching.

4.5 Combined desizing, scouring and bleaching of cotton

To simplify the process, reduce the cost, saving the energy and decrease the

effluent, some treatment operations such as desizing, scouring and bleaching

can be combined and carried out one bath. The achievable effects are not

relatively as good as those with stepwise processing and the consumption of

chemicals is somewhat higher.

78

Typfcal rec/pe -

W etting agent

Detergent

Common salt

Acetic acid 80%

Desizing agent

Temperature

M:L

At 90- 95 OC run for 10 - 15 min, and then add:

Peroxide stabilizer = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Caustic soda 36@Be = 3.0 - 6.0 g/I

H2O2 35% = 2.0 - 6.0 g/l

Temperature = 90 - 95*C

Time = 30 - 40 min

PH = 11

= 0.5 - 2.0 g/l

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 2.0 - 4.0 g/I

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/l (pH 6 - 6.5)

= x (Enzymatic desizing agent = 2.0 - 6.0 g/I)= 90 - 95*C

= 1 : 1 0

79

. k' K'.> ' Q< ' ' .7 r . 2 'AP-'Z ' E *-+ ' Q ': .z. M#;e ' z.$ th . J. r . 2*.* .' . .2)N ' '.f1 Ywx. J:F ' =- . i ' ' . ... < . . Ws = . g- .r& . î + . s..x zg -= . ù J: . + ':a. . . . - . . . . q . = . . x . . . .. t . .' ' >> 'zR E .e ')X 6 = 12Y.2% Q.Q h '= - ' ' * '- r c ' '' I<V J. !, . .4l<,e V e : G. . z X'*.q '=.%u. ï .4-.- ' . . . '' = - .'.' ' '- ' .W.!.n . i c; . . %. e .: .... sa a . . amgg zjqj yL, z.l.u .e;. : - . . . . .m . Ggt: . , ç = . . . ;. #'.v . . v* . ' .4 : .. ip'w x ' ' v'L2'' >'k' zG= ' * ' . IW'P.R ' r'x' '.K CQ &==.' ' ' ' '< # R 'TJ 4 & X' Av * ' ' ' = VGAV-- ' ' ar.rr# J ' =G ' c ' ' *

Figure: Process ctzlve(combined desizing,scouring and bleaching of cotton)

Procedure -


detergent, common salt, and acetic acid (maintaining pH 6.5 - 7).2. Then add desizing agent and raise the temperature to 90 - 95 C @ 1 -

zc/minute.

89

3. Run the bath for IQ - 20 minutes., then add peroxide stabilizer, caustic

soda, and hydrogen peroxide (pH Ievel around 10 - 11).4. Hold the bath for 30 - 60 minutes at the same temperature.


6. Rinse twice with hot and cold water.7. Treat with a peroxide killing agent for 10 minutes to remove the residual

peroxide.

8k Rinse with cold water again.

4k6 Combined ecouring and bleaching of cotton

Typical reclpe -W etting agent

Detergent

Peroxide stabilizer

Caustic soda 36*Be

HaO2 35%

Temperature

Time

PH

M: L

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/1

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 3.0 - 6.0 g/I

= 2.0 - 6.0 g/1

= 95 - 100 *C

= 40 - 60 min

= 11* 0.5

= 1 .. j 0

81

ra..) ' '

10, .. . . , t :. q. .: .,. . .. . '$E. !l. 1: ' . r . . . .. . . . . ,

. . 1 . t . . . . . ,l . ' . .k ...' , .. r , ' .. . ! . 'lnse .j ' . T '' . I : . -' . .

.jjjji jg '. ! . ;, ' ', ' , '. . . . . !.11 . ' . . . . '': . , . . ' ': :l ' . (' . 4 ' . . '

r . . ' t f ' '! ''. r ' F .$ ' 1. '3 1 -! 2 '60 3 ' ' .' . j 1 . . '. 1 . . . ' t' '. '. j .. j

'

. . . .! .. ' ' lh ' ' ' ' ' ' ' Y. . ' ' 't 1 . 1' . . ..! -. , ' ' .'. 7 j . . . . .1 . . . .. .. . s . . . . ,' ! . Z . . ' ' '40 ? .. . .. 'l' . ... . . . . k Q . . .. . ' .. j . . v z * ; . . .7 .. L . J %! ' ' .' . . j .; . ' d . .. . . . : L. . : . : i ' . , ' . j . . r. . .j! . J f . . : . .. : ! , . .. . . ; r ; J ra ! . t , . : . . . .: . .' ' r .r t !: . '.Lf . . ï : ' 1 . ' '. =t . ; . l .2 ' . ' . j i 7 . .) ' 3 . 'I . . J . . .1 . . y .f r. , ' . ' ' J ' ! ( r *. E. . jz , , . .w c .. , t. .. , .. . . .. j.e' . . . . . v. ,, ju, ...; . . . ; . . ',j. .. ... .ig . . : , . k ' ' . . . . à .. ' 4. .. J i; .! . ' ' ' : . 1 ' . .1

. . . . ' .z ' .t . t

'

' 'I l ' ' 'I , !

. . , l ')

'

, . = . . . r

'

. ( ' ' r

'

... j . ;. . . .

. . . . . . . .. . .

A 45 - 60 T e (mm)'1 ' ' >I1j '. . v tj m' e n tI

. gl . k. .I .S u'esterlng agentj '.*Sê%b*1'I 1 . rI, mcaustic sI. y. ogen peroxlde11

Figure: Process cgrve (combined scouring and bleaching of cotton)

Procedure -

Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,

sequestering agent, peroxide stabilizer and caustic soda.

2. Stad to raise the tem perature and add hydrogen peroxide after few minutes.

3. Raise the temperature to 90 - 95 C @ 1 - zc/minute.4. Run the bath for 45 - 60 m inutes', rapid bleach needs higher temperatures.

22


Rinse twice with hot and cold water.

Peroxide killing treatment can be

goods.

Note: lf the goods will not forward to next processes, then it lleed to neutralize with acetic acid

treatments.

applied to remove residual peroxide in

4.7 Testing of bleaching effect

W hiteness measurement instrument can easily measure the reflectance value of

bleached goods. The assessment ranges from the measurement of reflectance

at a single wavelength to a complete spectral scan which can be computer

processed to give a color difference or a Rwhiteness index''. The Iight of either

wavelength 457 nm or 460 nm is commonly used. The reflectance is always

related to an ''ideal white standard''. The international basis is now MgO which is

considered to have 100% reflectance. The reflectances of well bleached

samples of different sbers are as followsr

Bleached fiber Reflectance

Cotton, PC, CVC 80 - 90 Q/à

W ool 50 - 60%

Linen 60 - 80%

Rayon 70 - 80e/o

Nylon 75 - 85%

Polyester 75 - 85%

83

4.B Enzyme washl blo-pollshlng ofcotton

After scouring and bleaching the cellulosic goods (usually knit fabric) are treatedwith aœ tic acid for neutralization; then the fabric is treated with a suitableenzyme within a recommended conditions (temperature

, time, PH etc.) forpolishing the fabric surface by removing the short and immalure fib

ers from thesubstrate. This process can be applied before or aqer dyeing (normally befor

edyeing) operation.Typical rec/pe -

Acetic acid = 0.5 - 2 g/I

Enzyme (e.g. Bio-polish AL) = 1 - 2 g/ITemperature = 60 - 70@C (arm Ming to vender reœmmendation)Time = 10 - 15 minsPH = 4 - 5V ct. = ADAD

V#'X ': ' '. = xy :.i; .s.x.. i I.= è!z '.i j s . Q. ..2 . . .1.. . ! .*T.;V ' n '....! u z ' .

Figure.. Process ctzrve (enzyme wash/bio-polishing of cotfon goods)

Proceduœ -

1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add require amount of

acetic acid for Maintaining the PH 4 - 5.

2. Run the bath for 5 - 10 minutes and add (dosing) the enzyme.3. Raise the temperature to 50C and run for 20 - 30 m inutes.

4. Raise the temperature to 60 - 70 C and run for 10 - 20 m inutes.

5. Lower down the temperature to 50C and drop the bath.

6. Carry on the next process.

W

4.9 W hitening of cotton

For whitening of cotton the fluorescent brightener is normally applied to the

peroxide bleaching Iiquor, therefore it possible to avoid an extra whitening

operation. ln exhaust method optical brightening agent can also be used in the

combined scouring and bleaching of recipe.

Typical recipe -

W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Peroxide stabilizer = 0.3 - 0.8 g/I

Caustic soda .(360 Be) = 1.0 - 3.0 g/IHydrogen peroxide (350/0) = 3.0 - 6.0 g/IBrightener = 0.2 - 1.0%

Temperature = 90 - 95 OC

Time = 15- 40 min

PH = 10 - 11

M:L = 1:10

$6

Flkure: Process ctzae (combined bleachlbg and whitening of cotton)

Procedure -

Ias usual)

If the cotton goods have already been bleached (i.e. standard white cotton) theoptical brightener can also be applied by the exhaust method.

87

Typical whitening recipe (For bleached cotton) -Optical brightening agent = 0.2 - 1.0 OA

Glauber salt = 3 - 6 g/I

Temperature = 600C

Time = 10 - 20 min

M:L = 1 :10

Figure: Process cta e (whitening of bleached cotton)

Procedure -

IAs usual)

..%Q. 'A . 'r -x .0 88

. . k. : 4a $ . . 7 (. CVW4' -1 r nA$. -. ; >) .. . ' û.a;UQi;;'. ..2263/ . 4 . . . . . ! ... . E... : u:.z.j. i; :%p . .., . 4,1 !... . - - v>. H >.aw ' .-.k. . .... .y. ,t Jtv;g è ..'sw- . . .3 iplr>. ..-.çjh.!jtr,' ikx ..: ' z' x. . b.q ' . f' . j.. -' ... . v . - . .. . u.un v, l . . t . .. . .a ..uviàvx.. . - ...J . . . ..,. ... s a. .. auzqsu'plklkr.'s.v: yydj') )us. p..- :4,.7...:,:. .. - . . : . .. w . :a. . . -euyu. .j q r! .= .. . .s<g :o :. 6, e. acz Iayt , .. . t . . . -. . .a!f . . . ):> Jee xiotlem . wl/cl. > .. ) . . = m .Ar r . 7J Q . J : l ' ' J '. . w! . w . . .i .27' ''%t aA!. .j Xi f .. . . . . . %. . K . t :. . - . .. . ..- . . . . .. - . . . -t - . .. .. -.,.- -.:s . .. .....;,it -4 . - ,-n .w... , . :. .-- .r . .#îg! , .., f . .. . . . k . @i4.. qr ,;c -. .. .. . . c -.. .. . --' . .. =. . .. u . .444)' ' 1m)417:... .. .é< Z/ll'..! .fbq. q =. . :,. RM

4.10 Combined pretreatment and dyelng of cotton

One-bath bteaching and dyeing of cotton with direct dyes -Process-step reduction is very impodant to remain under control the total cost of

production. One-bath bleaching and dyeing can cut the extra cost involved with

dyeing processes. lt is possible to dye the cotton fabric with peroxide bleaching

in one bath. In that case peroxide-stable direct can use for dyeing of cellulosic

goods. This easy method is especially attractive for dyeing a range of brilliant

shades of garments or piece c10th.

Typical reclpe for combined bleaching and dyeing of cotfon goods -W etting agent = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I



Caustic soda = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Hydrogen peroxide (35Yo) = 3.0 - 5.0 g/1:!

-

Lubricant = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I (usually used for garment dyeing)Peroxide-stable direct dyes = X%


Temperature = 85 + 5 OC

Time = 30 - 40 min

pH = 10 k 0.5

k:L = 1 :1 0

100

80 ' j

'

' ..:

'

. 1 ' 1. ' ' 3 1. . j j ,! l

3 . !60 '' i '! ' '' !

l 1 * &t. ! !

. ' ' ' !

'

.' . 1 .. .. .' ! . '%

'

'! ! .l

.1 . ;40 ! '' '''.'' .. ; ', ' : '1 ' ' ! '

. . 1 ' . . ;.'!'. . .. ! ..' 5 I

1 b . ' ' 'î 1'' ' ' ' ' 7 'j ,2y: t , , uj. xa, i t ; ' . . . t . n .î t ' 1: '. .'':.k ' . '

. . , ' '

20 3 ' ' 'i ' 1. . ' . .: 1 : !! E.! : ' ..l . ' . . . .1 1 -: ' *3 ' . . . '6 6 ! !' ! : Ii

'

i 1 J .!. i . ! . !

5 5 30 -30 . .A 4 Tlme (m1n)j 1 '

1 . . .I , . . . ,1 *

'

' .

1 .' * etting agent ,. . .. *Gln'' r saltI . .

' *Se ueste ' agent' q gI . ' . m ..I *peroxlde stnbllly.er '' *caustic sodn . .,

. .olrect d es', .Hy ogen peroxlde (35@Ze)' *Lubricant1 .

Figure: Process ctzlve (comblhed bleaching and dyelhg of co/fo?l with direct dyes)

Procedure -

Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent,

sequestering agent, lubricant, peroxide stabilizer, alkalis and hydrogen

peroxide (maintaining the PH around 10).2. Run the bath for 5 - 10 minutes and add (dosing) selective direct dyes.3. Run for 5 minutes again, and add glauber salt.

4. Raise the tem perature to 80C and run for 30 - 40 minutes.

5. Lower down the tem perature to 50C and drop the bath.

6. Carry on aftretreatment process.

90

. . . .. .

. . . . y j . . yjy j j.jj; (( j (t.

.

j. jy y.. ;. .g y yjy yjay jky ;y$ y y j . y y . yPretreatm entvpnd. . # y e, . ,1. #, ,,g).p, t. rç. p., .W.p. hj*n.. . . q, . d, ) #w'?)t)?#/. 1). ;C. è,4, y#k ; , . : ,. - ..t

Aftertreatment process -

Rinse the dyed goods to remove the Ioosely attached dyes and other chemicals.

Treating with a suitable fixing agent to improve the colorfastness is

recommended.

4.11 Dyeing of cotton with direct dyesln 1883, J. W alter of Geigy discovered the first synthetic direct dye, which was

Direct Yellow 1 1. In 1956 the Society of Dyers and Colorists defined direct dyes

as '' anionic dyes substantive to cellulose when applied from an aqueous bath

containing electrolytes''. The dyeing mechanism for the application of direct dyes

to cellulosic fibers involves the adsorption, diffusion, and migration over sber.

Several factors persuade the dyeing mechanism', however, most important is the

cellulose fiber structure, morphology and the use of electrolytes. W hen the

cellulosic fiber is immersed into water the amorphous regions of the fibre swell to

produce small pores in the order of 20 - 100 A (Angstrom) units -.2 the smallersize of dye molecules diffuse into the sber structure through these pores. The

addition of electrolytes (e.g. sodium chloride, sodium sulfate) assists thediffusion and exhaustion of direct dye anionic by neutralizing the negative

surface charge of cellulosic fibers. It facilitates the movement of dye anions from

dye-in-solution to dye-in-fiber. Then the dye anions become affixed to the

cellulosic fiber through hydrogen bonding and van der waals forces.

Direct dyes are one of most versatile classes of dyestuff applicable to cellulose,

wool, silk, nylon fibers. Although the direct dyes have deficiency in wet

colodastness but it exhibits a wide range of fastness properties as shown by

their use in apparel, upholstery, Iining, and automotive fabrics. The following

application parameters are very important for successful dyeing with direct dyes

in exhaust method:

91

. .. x #p . rr qqlhtkttjltl. . . u ;s . .. . qk;TK - ' . ' (;J Ljjrltllll't ;' (::gq(i. jl' kt: (k. ë)E) : j i,4k ..té.f . s ..k . ; . C : . u- ' ' . ar. . ' 7 J'. -x) i-'!' . . :l. ,.ni ...x , ' , .. . œw' .-. -.

' .. .

' . . ; . r ,,k : jj Lltï 'y'. . . .) . .v' ' '. '' '''! ; ' l r ' ' ' ' '' . rrrlizk id..-)- . . -. ' - unx';.k q ';. iktbrlt:. . J.:..'i:' ' f. t '' ' 7'

Temperature (aroun. d 100C)pH (cellulosic: 7 - 9', and 4.5 - 6.5 for dyeing with disperse, acid, basic dyes)Electrolyte concentration (*0.5% shade = 5g/I, 1.0 - 2.0% shade = 10 - 20g/I, 2.0 - 4.0% shade = 20 - 30g/l, >4.0% shade = 30 - 40g/I)W ater conditions

Dyebath additives

Aftedreatment


Sequestering agent

Levelling agent

Lubricant

Direct dyes

Soda ash

Glauber/common salt

= x%

= 1.0 - 5.0 g/I (not mandatol)= 5.0 - 20.0 g/l or more (based on dye œ ncentrationand dye type or vender recommendation)

= 95 à 5 OC

= 30 - 50 min

= neutral to alkaline

= 1:5- 1:10

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 3.0 g/I

Temperature

Time

PH

M :L

Preparation of dye solution -

First, mix the dye with normal water and make dye-paste; then pour hot water to

dissolve the dye properly and ensure uniform bath concentration.

92

). . . ( . E t . . x >. .. J = x. . sz.gi % e) t= V' '- ' +':. + g ' V7c *; . - Qe. . = . . . T . - - . : -j. . u k -.gc .r=- .x p. -.y. = =. .x..v j. .y e' -. *a.+. 1): E - % >... . . e. . = . - - ... 4.e' u . . . . . . . . ' ..at. : ''/':;b . n l J. a , . T . . '. . . . . . r . . .. . - ..v.e i:tew ....pk * . . : r : . '). t.. . . . . t . . z. . . x . w=..s.. =. .q urxczgj'/. ,x! , c. . : .. .r!..q. . . . .- . . - cnq:u,j <z.. ..J m z4b-lav. x . , ,z) ..= d. :jjip jjlk . . .r. . . .'.. . . . ,L. 1... - v ... .h. .= . . = st y.x. .jjk.a L.xEr v ur.tsxrgkjjrmgl a.= eau..e/zp'. u ....pxx.yc .x rr' 1.. . . . . . . 1:, ç , .nqq =: p. ., . . . . xawk t àt : . . . .

Figure.. Process ctllve (dyeing of coflon goods with direct dyes)

Procedure-

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at room temperature.

2. Add dye solution with others auxiliaries (if necessary add small quantity of

alkali) and raise the temperature to 90C.3. Run the bath for 15 - 20 minutes and add salt step by step according to dye-

bath concentration (i.e. depth of shadel; higher the depth of shade need

more salt concentration. ,3

sq. '.!z;U gkM '' ûc:);' ' ' N'dex ' ' 'v n '' ' ' ' '' ' ' ' = = ='' ' =2 '' f V11 i 'L.4 z'ë; :ZA QJ Qk'i.Wml/ ' ' ' ''L 'U'1G-.'i'VQ- ='Xd > f'zd- ' '. . k ) c y . . j . . : . . . : y .s4.).+. . . . .'.. . = . ' - . L .?L s . . . . . ' .. :: J1 . su.I sw .. .. .. 4;ky 'ù.z xW-- ... =' ...=J .i< . u'qùï'M . . '%-- . < '. '. ' ' '. . qf :' x t ; Ie # . .2A N ' ' 4$ ' . .. . .* '>''': ' '=<q ' ' 'd XV 4 é Q . i ' ! - ' ' ' ' 'F' ' ' ' '' ' ' C ; ' Y Z' ' L 1 'u E4 = . . ' .=% . ' J . x; g . . - ''<= . . . . '' , : - . .e jlz'.t X...Ix g.a h . #' ' ' 4 't 'Q > ' ' ' ' P= ' : J: ' ' ''. y. k . AE ! I4iJ . ... .17., . i.: .. I'.#f. . i . . . .'r . ' ' ! .. .. .5.c' f. i$. UF ,AiI.u.....q$r* a..r : ut tsnj'..... su . .

. ' . . . ,.

'. . ' . jj4''411j1j '. .. : . tlll . . ..' . '. .. lf, ' ' . . 4. J!1!>S . tl .. , + .1 >. . I . . r 1='iJ% . rcg- . . 4 - ' ' ' 4 ' - ' ' . - . . . *,w.t . 1 . 5 : = J y e . 4 9-Y' ' .= +. x W 'J 7. 4 . . . . . . .' N - .., .. q .x.. .. . . .%.c.z. JL =. SVM F : N. . > . . . - w. -.c . z . . . . .C. . = ..= .== e r i .> n

This is better to add this salt after reaching the temperature to boiling point

since at this period the maximum penetration is achieved aII over the

substrate.

5. Run the dyebath for 30 - 50 minutes at 90 - 95C for complete the dyeing

cycle.

6. Cool down the bath temperature to 60 - 70C.

7. Drop the bath and rinse.

Carry on the aftedreatment process to improve wet fastness.


In after treatment process a suitable fixing agent is used for improving color

fastness (wash, water, perspiration) properties; usually this process is done at 30- 400 C, sometimes at 600 C for 15 - 20 min or according to vender

recommendation. After that a cationic softener is added to the last rinsing bath

for improving handle properties of fabrics', this process is done at 40 - 50 o C for

15- 20 min.

For improvement of colorfastness (wet & Iight) the following aftedreatmentprocess can be done -

Bicromate or Fitcary

Copper sulfate

Acetic acid

Temperature

Time

M:L

Then wash with hot and cold water, and dry to use.

= 0.5 - 2.0%

= 0.5 - 2.0%

= 1 .0 - 5.0%

= 80C

= 30mins

= 1 .. 1 o

. ... . .p. . .= . u .. '.'%' %vw' . L=Wr'' % = 'è .i''bt, ' +7 y Acmlg .C HEiE 1 > h. j(.i% 7 ' 'ekhk''..k ; IXN .xt. 1

. . # .. . 4 k. . = =. .. .. y.:x.y. w. ..ou'rW .a *= ' .+:- .' 'V'A'RD). = J*L . .d: =.iE. : 'N th=. X . .*% r'Kpqm' P..!J>zG'

) . . . . .; . . - ..y . . - . .;' . . . y

'

. z . . . .r % .? v. . .. :; $ . : . .. p ' à ' . 't '' .' ' ' R1 ' ' ' ' ' ' ' 7 'M

' . . . . . ï . 'u' =..= = v.r.L. é!PQ ..e.e. -- . -. .. t ' . no.zw. #u ps '.y <XK=L'X7Z. ' .1.:+ ' '..zY z!P=. il h% J.' .x '. ' 'X. ë! @ h '. . l s ' :

4.12 Dyeing of cotton with reactive dyesNowadays reactive dyes are very popular for textilé coloration because of its

some specific propedies Iike colorfastness, wide range of shade, brilliance of

shade, good reproducibility and simple application procedure. lt reacts with fiber

in presence of alkali and adheres as a part of the fiber. Three principles steps

are happened during reactive dyeing - exhaustion, fixation or reaction and

aftretreatment or washing. W hen a cellulosic fiber is immersed into dye solution.

negative charge produce and surrounded the fiber. On the other hand, the

reactive dyes produce negative charge into the dyebath. Thus, a repulsion force

occurred. Use of electrolytes neutralizes the negative sudace charge of the fiber.

Due to affinity of the reactive dyes to the fiber facilitates the dye molecules move

forward to the surface of the fiber. This phase of dyeing is called adsorption.

Then the dye molecules diffused into the swelled fiber structure through fiber

pores and distribute over the fiber - this step is called exhaustion. Finally, the

migrated dye molecules affix with sber by making a strong covalent bond with

cellulose - this step is called fixation. After that the unfixed and dooseiy attached

hydrolyzed dyes are removed by successive soap, hot and cold washing

process; which can ensure and improvement of the overall shade and fastness

of reactive dyeing.

95

According to reactivity reactive dyes are categorized as:

Procion MX

Drimarene K

Levatix E-A/P-A

Cibacron F

lxvatix E

Kayaoelon

Remazol

Sumifix Supra

Cibacron

Procion H

Cibacron T

Drimarene X Incre%ing reactivity

Figure: Relative reactivities of reactive dyes with cellulosic fibers

96

. a: =>= .' x . ' ' . ' h ' ='*;' w -.=...:N .2. ::C. :1 %'.f'.l .26 'R .1'Z Uér. . - c.é 1' J ' . ' .. . x uu - g . . -. :( J .. . 'IABB.F . . . x: - - . . . n q e' f : G : 1. * x . J @ .

. . . # . . = ï.y . . 2 : t . . . . ( . . .''<. . ' .. ' Le''y.é .=.i $Z f d ;,: *J'I . . . cu '.! > * . 'i bi . ?

Dye classes and propedies according to the reactive groups:

Reactlve group Reaetivity Exhaust dyelng Commercial product

temperature (@C)Dichlorotriazine (DCT) High 25 - 40 Procion MX (BASF;

Zeneca)Nicotinyltriazine (NT) Moderate to 100 - 130 * Kayacelon Read (Nippon

high Kayaku)Diflourochloropyrimidine Moderate to 30 - 50 Levasx E-A/P-A (Dystar)(DFCP) high Drimarene K (Clariant)Monoiuorotriazine (MFT) Moderate 40 - 60 Cibacron F (Ciba)Vinyl sulphone (VS) Moderate 40 - 60 Remazol (Dystar)Monochlorotiazine (MCT) Low 80 - 85 Cibacron (Ciba)

Procion H (BASF: Zeneca)Baselin (BASF: Zeneca)

Dichloroquinoxaline (DCQ) Low 50 - 70 Levafix E (Dystar)Trichloropyrimidine (TCP) Low 80 - 95 Cibacron T (Ciba)

Drimarene X (Clariant)* read under neutral conditions

Major reactive dye type and their dyeing process:a) Cold brand dyes (e.g. DCT)b) Hot brand dyes (e.g. MCT, TCP)c) High exhaust (HE) dyes (e.g. VS-MCT )d) Vinyl sulphone dyes (VS)e) Bi-functional dyes (HE & HF)

4.12.1 Dyeing with DCT (cold brand) type dyesFirst prepare the dye solution by mixing the required amount of dyes and other

chemicals with 20 - 30@C warm water. The addition of salt and alkalis is very

impodant for perfect exhaustion and fixation of dyes into fiber. For best practice

97

WWM X. '0 ' ' '': r '- - . ,,. uojootlon . . ol - lu:;qsû 2.â' ' ' 4 '. l rs '' ' ..' t.: .= . ' . .J . :.- . lsdilr . u. y-g 7... e '%-:'. êélf'îr. lrflsi-!l.si'h . 61'77117' ' :r. ' Q r': ..x . ='- - '

it is recommended to add salt step by step in dosing process and the alkali may

be added after rising to the dyeing temperature', i.e. alkali should be added after

exhaustion of dyes into the fibers. It needs special care to feed the alkali into the

dyebath. Usually the alkali is added to the bath with progressive dosing method,

dyes and salts are in Iinear dosing method. The amount of usable salt and alkalis

depends on the depth of shade. In most cases, the dyestuffs manufacturers

recommend the requirements of salt, alkalis and other auxiliaries chemicals used

in dyebath. A general recommendation of required salt and alkalis for dyeing of

cellulose fiber with DCT type dyes is given below -

Agents Shade Vo

U pto 1 Vo 1 - 3 Vo > 3%

Glauber salt or, 10 = 40 g/I 40 - 50 g/I 60 - 70 g/l

Common salt

Soda ash 3 - 8 g/l 8 - 12 g/I 15 - 20 g/I

Actual dyeing time (min) 30 - 40 30 - 50 40 - 60


Sequestering agent

Antifoaming agent

Dyes (DCT type)Glauber salt

Or, common salt

= 0.2 - 0.5 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

= Xs/o

Alkali (soda ash)

= Y g/I; (based on depth of shade, deeper shadehigher amount of salt)

= Z g/I; (based on depth of shade, deeper shade

higher amount of alkali)

92

. . ë x ... .. . -.-k.=-.gs.u.s . .. ..Ja0p-..-. . . . v.i!: s .fz,7. , .-r. uuas ,0,.. '..,.,..,. . . -, . . . .. as u; is.u .y, . r ..retreat e nt a n , el n. ''. o. ' . , ' . - ' ---?..-.=x- eu=t;*.--y-.vtw-v-s*-rx'1.-'L:.,'.s. .,r

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I; (Usually used for garment dyeing)

= 50 à 50 C (ca. 80OC for Turquoise and Brilliant

Green dyes )= 30 - 60 min

= 10 5 i 0.5

= 1 : 5 - 1 : 1 0

Lubricating agent

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

, i

Soap

lK 1 .! . ' ' a.! ' ' ' '? ' .. T

'

.

) ..Q . . : : r .s . . f. ... . . .. . . 'é ' . E ) . jj . . : . . y .y ï. . . .ç' 80 ' i '! ' ' '.

! ... (Fjn ! :11EE!1 . . lp . . . . . . . , ,. -. i; . . il . .. , . , . ;. . . '. . - . - , ... .. . .* .' 1Ee 1' ' !!

: 1. ' ' I '0 ' ' f ' !6

. 2 Itlng ,. .! 1

r( . :#. 1

k . I i

.. I 1! l l b4 0 i r l4 ' I

3 1! ' r1i . !I I ' ' .s :'s . ; 1. !

'

'

20 j j .. ! j .! I I . :

'

.#

'

' ' ! .. 1i I . i l: . ' l . 1I ' . . . . .

' . !

'

. . .. 3! . . : ..r . . !1 . , .r - .

x 20 w 30-60 15 %' 15 . .j, T. jm etmm)11 1 I

j $ Ii

'

I I '1

l

' @ etting agent & tifonm 'I I' *sequeste - g agent ,' *Detergent,, . oyzv sslt ' .uubricsnt. . es (doslng) . ,'' .'zzv sslt (dosing) (dosmg) , *soda smllI' . *SofI% Mh '1 *laubncant .1 (dOSmg) .

Figure: Process ctlrve (dyeing of coffon goods with cold brand (QCT type)

reactive dyes)

99

: . z : à . . . ' '..le c . r r $.5 # ' . . ' . . i ; > ' : kâ ' ) . .zr 4 . .; . ...z ' ' c . : ' - '-1 f' ' f' RT k ' 1:j .JJ . .y 4 w J > . ' ' < k . ' '; E '6='.Z'i ' .< ui k: # r = ' '< & ' .Y

'

' y . : q L L' ' >F x ' F

'

l ' ' '. ' r. j * . ë . . t CJ u < z . . 'Y=,. i: . . . . > ' ' ' ' 1 ' ' =' . ' . % ' ..a y''ô . . : .ha . éx. : ....J; .1' L : ' > ! . ' ' ' i k ' 'p ! . .z t. = x.. Aa pr lp . .?k u . . . . . $ u . ' à E'. =. . . r . . 1 . . s r ....e y. . . ' . . . 'a. . . . . < .5 ' z. > < R

'

= .é . . . .#+ =. ..,) t. tu < f q :. . àz... x . . - . .. k)q Qaz!< <#J( k . 12 Tu4xdf ' . Af H' . = ' 'N FNr lhal n ? x'xk*ti'x 02::4* 1b- A ' ' ' ':; . !1,' i'!- ) R:IRA ..Ftf ''X = R! ( J!1 E ' : 'f s . ' t i i w'i'ë . lf :'lJ ç.#G =3X+' 7 k ; e' . . .: xi . . t/ ' =. .'..e.:tq .J' ' ' hv 'h- .. Ty Ivew pe-fkxlarw a . v -=!=è..-.; ' , jr . <t.y ..a . .zc,m..IQ. .. ' . . . . '.ç: 1 . . q. i! . y ' elo'xx ..'.% ha' a% 'h. =*. 8 . h 8 '. #'' ' > . 'il' z2. . .. . , : : . g . . .0 e.

Pp cedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and

sequestering agent, Iubricant, and antifoaming agent.

2. Add (dosing) dyes and half amount of salt.3. Raise the temperature to 50C and add (dosing) rest amount of salt and soda

ash.

4. Run bath for 30 - 60 minutes at 50C.

5. Drop the bath and carry on aqertreatment process.

add wetting agent,

Afte4reatment process -

For better colorfastness aqertreatment process is very important. First need

complete removal of salts and alkalis by rinsing. Usually several rinsing process

is done to get better result. Then the substrate is neutralized by acid (acetic acid)wash. After that it needs soap wash to confirm that the gpods are totally free

from unfixed dyes. In case of deep shade, it is recommended to give one more

soap wash with early mentioned (aqedreatment) recipe.1. Rinse with 50eC hoi waler for 10 minutes.

2. Neutralize and Iower the pH to 5.5 - 6.5 with acetic acid at 500C.

3. Soap wash acœ rding to below recipe -

Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Soda ash = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Temperature = 95 - 100* C

Time = 15 min

PH = 8 - 9

M:L = with enough water

4. Rinse with 900C hot water for 10 minutes.

5. Rinse with cold water for 10 minutes.

100

4.12.2 Dyeing with TCP (hot brand) type dyesDue to good migration and penetration properties these groups of dyes are very

popular for medium to heavy fabrics. l'hese dyes are applied to textiles in a

higher range of temperature about 90@C. The addition of salt and alkaiis is veryimpodant for exhaustion and fixation of dyes into fiber. For best practice it is

recommended to add salt step by step and the alkali may be added after rising to

the dyeing temperature; i.e. alkali should be added aqer exhaustion of dyes into

the fibers. The amount of usable salt and alkalis depends on the depth of shadp.

In most cases, the dyestuffs manufadurers recommend the requirements of sait,

alkalis and other auxiliaries chemicals used in dyebath. A general

recommendation of required salt and alkalis for dyeing of cellulose fiber with

TCP type dyes is given below -

Shade %

U pto 1 % 1 - 3 % > 3%

Glauber salt or, 20 - 40 g/l 40 - 60 g/l 60 = 80 g/I

Common salt

Soda ash 5 - 10 g/l 10 - 15 g/I 15 - 20 g/l

Actual dyeing time (min) 30 - 45 45 - 60 60 or more

Typical (eclye -W etting agent = 0.2 - 0.5 g/I


Antifoaming agent = 0.5 -.. 1.0 g/I

Dyes (TCP type) = X%Glauber salt

Or, common salt = Y g/l; (based on depth of shade, deeper shadehigher amount of salt) '

bt P'VFXVt:P 1.*.;at'ûQ7..rv ' > ..;# 1: .. ? ' F !- , 2,

'- .-0 ' 0- tlon , ., , oj .- j)' -P-Z' x1. ; ' ' ' a J - ;' fe ' ' ' ' ' ' - 'b.%'% 4.rk4t:1d ë! i ' - * =' .:- 'n ': ' . ' .

Alkali (soda ash)

Lubricating agent

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

= Z g/l', (based on depth of shade, deeper shade

higher amount of alkali)= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 95 i 5 C

= 30 - 60 m in

= 10.5 : 0.5

= 1 : 5 - 1 : 1 0

Figure: Dyeing ctzrve (dyeing of collon goods with hot brand (TCP type) reactive

dyes)102

. m = s w+ @ : .A .. . . .. , - e . e.- . . '. . . . c ',''. a .. . Q o .. .bq ;1r è' . .'= = '-n= 1 ' ki u'jga. . . :. . . , l . . . --<k . <treat @n '.., '.n. , ''.'.. . . . ' '+4' ,' '. ' - -' ' ' '0 ' ' ' 're

. . . . ..m u ! . zv y . t.. or R'v a . -'r '' =. . . . w . . -.>e. N. .j. . = -4x . = 'Argq.

Procedure -

1 . Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent,

sequestering agent, Iubricant, and antifoam ing agent.

2. Add (dosing) dyes and glauber salt.

3. Raise the temperature to 95 - 100C and add (dosing) soda ash.4. Run bath for 30 - 60 minutes at dyeing tem perature.

5. Cool down the bath to 60C and drop.

6. Carry on aftedreatment process.

Aftertreatment process -For better colorfastness aftedreatment process is very impodant. First need


is done to get better result. Then the substrate is neutralized by acid (acetic acid)wash. After that it needs soap wash to confirm that the goods are totally free

from unfixed dyes. In case of deep shade, it is recommended to give one more

soap wash with early mentioned (aftedreatment) recipe.1. Rinse with 500C hot water for 10 minutes.

2. Neutralize and Iower the pH to 5.5 - 6.5 with acetic acid at 50OC.

Soap wash according to below recipe -


Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Temperature = 95 - 1000 C

Time = 15 m in

pH = 8 - 9




103

4.12.3 Dyeing with HE (high exhaust) type dyesA general recommendation of required salt and alkalis for dyeing of cellulose

sber with high exhaust type dyes is given below -

Shadeto Amount of salt (gm/l) Soda ash Fixation time*cotton Viscose (gm/I) (mlns)

upto 0.1% 10.0 - 15.0 5.0 - 10.0 5.0 - 8.0 30 - 45

0.1 1 - 0.5% 20.0 - 30.0 15.0 - 20.0 8.0 - 12.0 40 - 50

0.51 - 1 .0% 30.0 - 45.0 20.0 - 30.0 12.0 - 16.0 40 - 50

1.10 - 2.0% 45.0 - 60.0 30.0 - 40.0 15.0 - 18.0 45 - 60

2.10 - 4.0% 60.0 - 80.0 45.0 - 60.0 18.0 - 20.0 60

> 4.0% 80 or more 60.0 - 80.0 20.0 or more 60 or more

* without mercerize', mercerized cotton needs less amount of salt than unmercerized cotton

Method - I tConventional method):ln this method, the bath auxiliaries are added at lower temperature and raise thetemperature to optimum Ievel slowly. After reaching the dyeing temperature, salt

is added step by step and then add alkalis over a period of time. This method is

suitable for dyeing of medium to deep shade.

Typical reclpe -W etting agent = 0.2 - 0.5 g/l

Sequestering agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Antifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/1

Levelling agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Dyes (HE type) = X%Glauber salt u

Or, common salt = Y g/l; (based on depth of shade, deeper shade

higher amount of salt)

1û4

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

igure: Process ctlrve (dyeing of cotforl with HE type reactive dyes - conventional

ethod)

= Z g/l', (based on depth of shade, deeper shade

higher amount of soda)= 60 - 80@ C (according to vendor recommendation)

= 30 - 60 min

= 10.5 + 0.5

= 1:5 - 1:10

1Q5

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 250C and add dyes and auxiliaries, then

run for 10 minutes

2. Raise the temperature to 60 - 80@C @ zQc/minute and add salt step by stepover 20 minutes (e.g. three step salt addition like 1. 100A, 2. 30% and 3.

600A)3. After raising the optim um temperature, run the bath for 20 m inutes and then

add (dosing) soda ash over 15 -20 minutes.4. Run the bath for 30 - 60 m inutes again at the same temperature.

5. Cool down and drop the bath.

6. Carry on the aqedreatment process.

Aftedreatm ent process -

For better colprfastness aftedreatment process is very important. First need

com plete removal of salts and alkalis by rinsing. Usually several rinsing process


from unfixed dyes. ln case of deep shade, it is recommended to give one more

soap wash with early mentioned (aftedreatment) recipe.1. Rinse with 500C hot water for 10 m inutes.

Neutralize and lower the PH to 5.5 - 6.5 with acetic acid at 500C.

Soap wash according to below recipe -

Detergent

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

PH

e M ' L

= 1.0 - 3.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 95 - 100* C

= 15 m in

= 8 - 9

= with enough water

106

. . c 2'u.J . :2 ...! < 4 'J ,;#.t&'1; p i 'it .è.1h ga ' -. ' . ' ' * . . 2:51.1 Itkilyb'. . 77 ' . .r . i . , . ; '..k .. 1 . wp.. a

's ? '. .'7. ) ',.,:: ! e. . i !t: .tl' , #;j.S. 0F18;. . .' .E ' . . J.. . :

' . .' ' ' ..m

'az.' .y. .#:.qrjjrj(j..z' ' vy. kq.'.jj(;' ',%'$ 'vr,u ,'.'

t r@ a @' ' .... ' , x .. 'sx, '.r ' s/' ,re, ..;e . k

gx j .



Method - 11 (AII-in methodl:This method is very simple and fast, since no addition of any chemicals is

It is suitable for medium to dark shade. ln thisnecessary during process.method, a6I the ingredients are circulated together at cold water including alkalis

prior to heating of the bath to the dyeing temperature. Here some remarkable

drawbacks Iike maintaining the initial temperature is critical to repeatability,

controlling the rate of heating is essential for Ievelness since both exhaustion

and irreversible fixation are occurring simultaneously from the star, and there is a

possibility of Iower color yield.

Typical recipe -

Wetting agent

Sequestering agent

Antifoaming agent

Levelling agent

Dyes (HE type)Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Alkali (soda ash+caustic) = Z g/l', (based on depth of shade, e.g. upto 1% shadeneed (5g/I soda+ 0.2g/I caustic); >1% shade need (5 - 10g/l soda+ 0.5g/l caustic)Temperature = 60 - 80@ C (according to vendor recommendation)

Time = 30 - 60 min

pl-l = 10.5 + 0.5

M:L = 1:5 - 1:10

= Y g/f; (based on depth of shade, deeper shade

higher amount of salt)

= 0.2 - 0.5 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/4

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/!

= xo/o

Figure.. Process ctzlve (dyeing of codfon with HE fype dyes - all-in method)

Procedure -

Set the dyebath with substrate at 25*C and add bath auxiliaries, salt, dyes,

and alkalis, and then run for 10 - 20 minutes.

2. lt's better to add dyes and caustic soda step by step at the same

temperature.

3. After adding all ingredients run the bath for 10 minutes at the same

temperature or stad to raise the temperature.

4. Raise the temperature to 80*C (@2*C/min) over 30 - 45 minutes.5. Run the bath for 30 - 60 minutes at 80@C.

6. Cool down and drop the dyebath.

7. Carry on aqedreatment process.

Ane4reatment process -

For better colorfastness aftedreatmentprocess is very im podant. First need



from unfixed dyes. ln case of deep shade, it is recom mended to give one more

soap wash with early mentioned (aftedreatment) recipe.

1. Rinse with 50@C hot water for 10 minutes.

2. Neutralize and lower the PH to 5.5 - 6.5 with acetic acid at 500C.

3. Soap wash according to below recipe -


Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l


Time = 15 min

pH = 8 - 9

M :L = with enough water

4. Rinse with 90@C hot water for 10 m inutes.


199

Method - lII (Miqration/hiqh tem perature method):

This method is popular for better migration of dyes into the fibers. lt is applicable

for aII type of shade from pale to deep shades. This method is suitable for

delicate fibers such as viscose, modal, Iyocell, mercerized cotton or blends with

elastane, highly twisted yarns, tightly woven fabrics or fabrics difficult to

penetrate the dye molecules into the sber.

Typical reclèe -W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Antifoaming agent

Levelling agent

Dyes (HE)Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

PH

M :L

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/l

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= Xty'o

= Y g/I; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/I; (according to vender recommendation)= 60 - 70@C (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 60 min

= 10.5 â: 0.5

= 1 :5 - 1 :10

*27 ' f. apr.. .--,.....- . ,i . -- 'j ''j lllllj. . . k.'k . . ;...GLI

' ' ' . ' 11 V.. 'RQJI ' >-Q = 'U' J' ' n '. . : . . j ,: '! .f o . 'A. . e .rgfrëa n1.'..'.2' ;, ','p.', . , .. , ' , . . J'. 47

gure: Process ctzrve (dyeing of coàlon with HE reactive dyes - migration method)

Procedure -1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 40@ C temperature and add dyes and other

auxiliaries, then raise the dyebath to 85 - 90* C over 15 - 25 m inutes.

Add (dosing) salt and run for 15 - 30 minutvs at the same temperature.3. Lower down the temperature to 70 - 80* C and add (dosing) soda ash.


Cool down and drop the dyebath.

6. Carry on the aftedreatment process.

111


For better colorfastness aftedreatment process is very impodant. First needcomplete removal of salts and alkalis by rinsing. Usually several rinsing process


from unfixed dyes. In case of deep shade, it is recomm ended to give one more

soap wash with early mentioned (aqedreatment) recipe.

1. Rinse with 50*C hot water for 10 minutes.

2. Neutralize and Iower the pH to 5.5 - 6.5 with acetic acid at 50@C.



Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Tem perature = 95 - 1Q0* C

Time = 15 min

PH = 8 - 9



Rinse with cold water for 10 minutes.

Method - IV (Isothermal methodl:ln this method, the bath is prepared at higher temperature and dyeing is carried

out at the same temperature. This method is suitable for all kinds of shade.

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Antifoaming agent

Levelling agent

Dyes (HE type)

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= x%

112

Glauber saltOr, common salt

Soda ash'

TemperatureTime

PHM:L

igure: Process cJlve (dyeing of collon with HE reactive dyes - isothermal method)

= Y g/I; (based on depth of shade, deeper shadehigher amount of salt)

= Z g/l; (based on depth of shade, deeper shadehigher amount of soda)

= 60 - 80* C (according to vendor recommendation)= 40 - 60 min

= 10.5+ 0.5= 1:5 - 1:10

113

. . , lvl.+l * $5 .tû5.1i!: :...1.7 .'sj.7le>. l:'f -u = >;u. 1 .6i. : ' '' . :& . . t>' YMJ .* kL-.-x' ..%L. ':f:: A w e' .4;j. %n;k k. loa hyaxù ac zi iz..',rhu:.p u:4.../.' D'4c2kk<=1s=nu:r@; .. c%'.' '. .z.A#. . . ' ' .. x d2 l.rJri. : M4 a 7G:..r.v o x + .-- .- #=Q-kJ-. -. - n i . v.K.1 t qœltrrl.. ;. =. . asu' a L?X. ... J m. .% J: . .. r = '' . . .û.'.:m., .' '' . rfirke' .4iL. %' yyujjj,.j, . ' yza. A,: jj.fz>iy7ci7l.'. ;L-'' . . . . . . ' '' ' ' jj 4j11). jjqjj' '. .'. jj;jj I1) .: .. . . ' k .%f ! t u. yx... . . c.JEr. . =. =.. = .Jjsv. . ..VW. e ç Yl wu.. oys-sys.. ..... . - ,..j . 'xa. '.y ukrx.-y.) w .v. u k .r.rg. . . . . ..i c .ï . . @>y. :, # > . . FfK'i.' xxq y . xs . . .

roced&re -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 40@C and add salt and other auxiliaries,

then raise the temperature to 80@C (dyeing temp.) as early as possible.

2. Add (dosing) dyes oveq 10 - 15 minutes.

3. Run the bath for 20 - 30 minutes and then add (dosing) alkalis over 10 - 20m inutes.

4. Run the bath for 40 - 60 minutes again at the same temperature.

5. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aftedreatment process.

Aftertreatm ent process -' For better colorfastness aftedreatment process is very impodant. First need


is done to get better result. Theh the substrate is neutralized by acid (acetic acid)wash. After that it needs soap wash to confirm that the goods are totally free

from unfixed dyes. In case of deep shade, it is recom mended to give one m ore

soap wash with early mentioned (aftedreatment) recipe.

Rinse with 50*C hot water for 10 minutes.

Neutralize and Iower the pH to 5.5 - 6.5 with acetic acid at 500C.



Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Tem perature = 95 - 1000 C

Time = 15 min

pH = 8 - 9

M :L = with enough water

4. Rinse with 900C hot water for 10 minutqs.

5. Rinse with cold water for 10 m inutes.

114

:. . . u .. x .w . . .. - . ;t#J<2. 24K;C:' x5:1:z -.. q E q. 9+ !. . .:: ak. .. é.. . . . ,. .J : . . . % . fxao.:E 2 %w=x 3' &. i $ k' '. n u r ..z. . '' q ' ' '. . * . . . v L . .JG. '% .JJ. '; e Jj . . p' . . ' . j ' 'r . ;s; Ie . ' ''M Tc C r..4, . . ' :; < . ' . . 1 V i . ; M( : ' = . : Q . . a'bp.;ç QOXMX-XH ' Y b%' / ' 1 Q â X '' ' FP Q ' W ' ' 1' ; s = = ' c . . . .- .- x.= ....... .&=a a'. vïrx-. yu%.H. : E'.'.' ' . . 1 ,'...V ;.. .j: ' # l 4 s' aw' 2 ' . .=' ' '. J1 1. 't ' ' . E t 7 / : ! Q6. g z L F % ' : ' = ' -.>''i. u' .xice'yi>..ve g #. . ste . n . ..

xj! . . . è a. . v : . Jx j . r t R' ' ; k$l . $; ' ' ks. '7' - e : ': . tq Vho' . o M u ' ' 7JW= *>' = ' ' ' ' V GA'FM ù*VS ' = ï ' ' ' F X '. . + . . - !.. . . . . : v . u n=.=. Ls.-= ==wm . . + l u .%uvl. !i .4x e F. J' x ; af .1. . . . . . c nv.vsw +z. . -! . = . . s ep . k

4.12.4 Dyeing with VS (vinyl sulphone) type dyes

Typical reclye -W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Antifoaming agent

Levelling agent

Dyes (VS type)Glauber salt

Or, common salt

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= X%

and soda ash)

Temperature

Time

PH

M '.L

= Y g/I; (need more salt than other reactive dye)Alkali (combined caustic

= Z g/l', (higher temperature need Iower amount ofcaustic soda)

= 40 - 80* C (according to vendor recommendation)= 60 - 90 min

= 10.5 à 0.5

= 1:5- 1:10

115

Figure: Process ctzae (dyeing of co/ton with FS reactive dyes)

Procedure -

Set the dyebath with substrate at 30@C and add salt, dyes and other

auxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 15 minutes.

2. Raise the temperature to the optimum dyeing temperature of 60 - 80*C

@20C/min and add (dosing) alkalis at the same time.3. Run the bath for 60 - 90 m inutes at the same tem perature.


5. Carry on the aftedreatment process.-.; .t-.pR . c7. '

. .! ttr,,- .j -.:,, . .111' 1..6Nv .n. s ,'11.5...:,;:1t).. '' i-''.k. :.'.- '. ' ' i.

. . . ' ' Z ?/' ! Va ; > é'di'i H J '

Pret at '',. ' ... . ' . > .=) =' : %+ ' = ' '. . ..-. . ;. k. =. 'JY

Afte4reatment -For better colodastness aftedreatment process is very impodant. First need

complete removal of salts and alkalis by rinsing, and then it needs soap wash to

confirm that the goods are totally free from unsxed dyes. In case of deep shadç,

it is recommended to give two soap wash with early mentioned (aftertreatment)

recipe IRef. aftretreatment process , 4.10.2)

For aftedreatment (soap wash) recipe -Detergent = 1 .0 - 3.0 g/I

Lubricating agent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l


Time = 15 min

pH = 8 - 9


4.12.5 Dyeing with bi/multi-functional type dyesDyegtuffs containing two groups are known as bi-fundional dyestuffs, and in the

case of two more groups in their structure is known mult-functional reactive dyes.ln general, this type of reactive dyes are produced by combining the viny'l

sulphone (VS) and monochlorotriazine (H) type dyes. These dyes are popular todyers because of some special qualities, such as -

good intensity and brightnesscolorfastness propedies is comparatively very high

produce a wide range of shade

good Ievelling propedy

high exhaustion and sxation propelbatch to batch variation is very low

easy wash-out of unfixed dyes

. . . . j.c y ., .? ).-7 .-11111 ..1111 '71111',. ' . . .. . '. q:k7--:k;ry.. ëE?. .. r.. ,Ië! y gy , . ,

é' JJiPJ.%I4..L.ù; '.A'lo't' sj,lsj- ,ktp;. xYxkî. ï.= 7.4 ffx y g . -- .. , . . ..' '. .-uj.y-u,... . cxks)p yr. . .e.g. zqztu-- -- ur p .. ... . ... . -. . u-;'r -4. pqè . .. . : a ... ... . . :. .

. - -, 4. lqra,,. tion , ol - I. ve- rlt. ' ....--.....iw ''iQ ;:4+%*è.1 ':, .'-''. '. ='.' ' .

dyes:Shadelo Amount of salt (gm/I) Soda ash Fixation Fixation

X otton Viscose (gm/I) time (mins) temp. (V )upto 0.5% 15.0-25.0 10.0 - 20.0 3.0 - 10.0 30 - 45 40 - 600.51- 1 .0% 25.0-35.0 20.0 - 30.0 10.0- 15.0 40 - 50 40 - 60

1 .1 - 2.0% 35.0- 45.0 30.0 - 40.0 15.0- 18.0 40 - 50 40 - 60

2.1 - 4.0% 45.0- 70.0 40.0 - 65.0 16.0- 20.0 45 - 60 40 - 60

> 4.0% 80/ more 60.0 - 80.0 20.0/more 60/more 40 - 60Note: using mixed alkali (caustic + soda) is possible to Iower down the use of soda ash

.

* without mercerize; mercerized cotton needs less amount of salt than unmercerized cotton

general recommendations) of bi-functional reactiveDyeing propedies (a

Method - I fconventional m ethodl:

Typical reclye -W etting agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/ISequestering 'agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Antifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/lLevelling agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Dyes (bi-fundional) = X%Glauber salt

Or, common salt = Y g/I; (according to vender recommendation)Soda ash = Z g/1; (according to vender recommendation)Temperature = 40 - 60*C (according to vendor recommendation)Time = 30 - 60 min

pl-l = 10.5 :k 0.5

M : L = 1 '.5 - 1 : 1 0

. - .- ''c ' ' f t ::?k qr .kj).?-:s-;t. '.llijijli'ziu-jysj)-zs k::$ L4 x'''' ----z td-p/a<,' - - (- ' > ;: . s - . ... ;. éq. uj.fB i.zg. ari-ysts);.: ...kjr , :;,k..-.. -. . . k1. , (u.t. . nu !111!'. .. zzL. 'k ' .': . :qk?iju.$L3î$,.,''' jj:jjj 'jj;jjj ' . jjrjj. i'jj jjljj-' ; Lé ' ry. . .. .. ;jj;j;....' . . jjggjyo. r . . . .ks s, q u ... .. l:-a,u . q . e. ... -. . Jiéd zx yypretreatm ent an v ?. s .

Tigure: Process ctzlve (dyeing of collon

zonventional method)

with bi-functional reactive dyes -

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at room tem perature and add dyes and other

auxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 m inutes.

Add (dosing) 50% salt ând run for 5 - 10 minutes. Salt addition can be doneby holding the bath at 40@ C as well.

3. Q aise the temperature to 600C @ 1 - 20 C/min and add (dosing) rest of. .. . ': ' .-' 1) of salt at the same time.

119

' ;- . -. - - --.- ; J't,siè! ? k:. - oo)A::'2@!.-7:. :l;i'' 2.2 .'; .-'.?r.' - :! .kL L7. .

4. Run the bath at 600C for 5 - 10 minutes.

5. Add 50% of soda ash and run for 10 minutes.

6. Add rest of (50%) soda ash and run for 30 - 60 minutes at the sametemperature.

7. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aftertreatment process.

Afte4reatment -

For better colodastness aftertreatment process is very impodant. First need

complete removal of salts and alkalis by rinsing, and then it needs soap wash toconsrm that the goods are totally free from unsxed dyes. ln case of deep shade,it is recommended to give two soap wash with early mentioned (aftedreatment)recipe IRef. aftedreatment process, 4.10.2J.

For aftertreatment (soap wash) recipe -Detergent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lLubricating agent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/l

Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ITemperature = 95 - 100* CTime = 15 min

pH = 8 - 9M:L = with enough water

Method - 11 (AII-in method):

This method is suitable for deep shade.

Typical reclpe -W etting agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/I


Antifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I


Dyes (bi-fundional)Glauber salt

Or, com mon salt

Soda ash

Temperatùre

Time

PH

M:L

= Y g/l; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/l; (according to vender recommendation)= 40 - 60@C (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 60 m in

= 10.5 + 0.5

= 1 : 5 - 1 : 1 0

Flnure: Process ct/rve (dyelhg of col/o?l wlth bi-functional reactive dyes - all-in

method).. .

,: ..),:(yu: ;,,11. .1:;!: 1. , .,. ..à; jjjj, y :'T..f:lL..,

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at room temperature and add salt and other

auxiliaries.

2. Add (dosing) dyes and alkalis. Its better to add alkalis Iittle bit Iater.3. Raise the temperature to the optimum dyeing temperature of 60OC @

20C/min.

4. Run the dyebath for 30 - 60 minutes at the same (600C) temperature.


Aftertreatm ent -

For better colorfastness aftertreatment process is very impodant. First, need


confirm that the goods are totally free from unfixed dyes. In case of deep shade,

it is recommended to give two soap wash with early mentioned (aftedreatment)recipe IRef. aftretreatment process, 4.10.2J.

For aftertreatment (soap wash) recipe -Detergent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

Lubricating agent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lSoda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ITemperature = 95 - 100* C

Time = -15 min

PH = 8 - 9


Method - IIl (Isotherm al method):

Typical recipe -


Sequestering agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IAntifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

. . ;:l =L è 4.c? . q 4 ..))' , . ' ..1L t.: 5712f;/2 -.i(J. (ydtE#-'2bitq>- . Q <T.L :' 11' L - i'%' $ * ! ëi%4i

trea . . ,' ', ' t' ',r . @ : r . , . . z v. - . a,o s . ,

-- 1 . 0 - 2 0 g/I..-..- tlj/,fj

= Y g/I; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/l; (according to vender recommendation)= 40 - 60*C (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 60 min= 10.5 à 0.5= 1 : 5 - 1 : 1 0

Levelling agent

Dyes (bi-fundional)Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Soda ashTemperatureTimePH

M : L

igure: Process cgrve (dyeing of colforl with bi-functional reactive dyes - isothermal

'nethod). .; > q)).: !j :.;2j23 jtg:. . - :y::1. -. ji

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 60*C temperature and add dyes and otherauxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) salt and run for 15- 20 minutes.3. Add 50% of soda ash and run for 5 - 10 minutes.

4. Add rest of (50%) soda ash and run for 30 - 60 minutes at the sametemperature.

5. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aqertreatment process.

Affeltmatment -For better colodastness aqedreatment proçess is very impodant. First needcomplete removal of salts and alkalis by rinsing, and then it needs soap wash toconsrm that the goods are totally free from unsxed dyes. In case of deep shqde,it is reœ mmended to give two soap wash with early mentioned (aftedreatment)recipe (Ref. aftretreatment process, 4.10.2).

For aqedreétment (soap wash) recipe -Detergent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lLubricating agent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lSoda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Temperature = 95 - 100* CTime = 15 minPH = 8 - 9M:L = with enough water

Method - IV (Mlaratlon/hlah tem perature methodl:

Typical œ c/pe -

W etting agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/1


Antifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I


. . i ' i, è 'Kt Y k '. . . . . : . , ..j1 zIIp:I1'. ... . ;IE11k . . .. j. q,.y . : - .. -y

. .t .. . . .---.5Fè:?!! . . . .$ ,,t. .;.;J! ki. . . .

-- X %Dyes (bi/multi-functional)Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

PH

M :L

mltration method)

= Y g/I; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/I; (according to vender recommendatlon)

= 50 - 60@C (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 60 min

= 10.5 à 0.5

= 1 : 5 - 1 : 1 0

ProcedJre -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 40@ C temperature and add dyes and other

auxiliaries, then raise the dyebath to 80@ C over 10 - 20 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) salt and run for 15 - 30 minutes at the same temperature.

3. Lowecdown the temperature to 60@ C and add (dosing) soda ash.3. Run the bath for 30 - 60 minutes.4. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aftertreatment process

.

Afte4reatment -

For better colodastness aAedreatment process is very important. First needcomplete removal of salts and alkalis by rinsing, and then it needs soap wash to

consrm that the goods are totally free from unsxed dyes. In case of deep shade.

it is recommended to give two soap wash with early mentioned (aftertreatment)recipe (Ref. aqretreatment process, 4.10.2).

Typical (soap wash) recipe -Detergent

Lubricating agent

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

PH

M :L

4.13 Dyeing of cotton with vat dyes

Vat dye' is the most popular dyes for achieving high colo#astness on cellulosic

fibers. But it's an expensive class of dyes compared to reactive or other dyes

used for cotton goods. It is insoluble in water, and has no or Iittle affinity for

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 95 - 100* C

= 15 min

= 8 - 9

= with enough water

. .z- 4.:. . .=: . aq N '+T '.% - * . Q n yo.x... ) rr z . ' 'zxxux . $ y 2re r

. A%>s'v.'x. ' rxoz:.;:..&P:. 'b gz .:'3 :'H.rrty '

cotton fiber. Before dyeing the dyes must be conveded to solubilized form by

being reacted with caustic and hydroz - this state is cafled 'Ieuco' form of vat

dyes. The 'leuco vat dyes' have affinity for the fiber. After exhaustion of these

'leuco' dyes into the fiber, it is oxidized to form insoluble colored pigment again

inside the fiber, thus, the dye molecules 'Iocks' inside the fiber.

4.13.1 General vat dyeing processVat dyeing process is carried out in two subsequent step - 'vatting' and 'dyeing'.

But the whole process of cotton dyeing with vat dyes embraces several steps

such as vatting, dyeing, oxidizing and aftedreatment.

Step - I (Vattinql:Vatting - 'vatting' is a process developed for reducing the vat dye into soluble

form. lt is done by treating the insoluble vat dyes with strong reducing agent (e.ghydroze) in presence of caustic soda. Thus, produce 'leuco' form of vat dyes and

the process is known 'leuco-vat dyeing'.

Typical recipe for vatting -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Vat dyes

Dispersing agent (T.R.O.)Caustic soda

(66 - 70OTw, NaOH)Hydroze

Stir it at 60 - 70C for 10 - 15 minutes.

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/1

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= X gm/l (for example, logms dyes in llit water)

= Y gm/l

= 15 - 30 mI/I

= 10 - 20 gm/l

.. . k:c ffs. ' .. :L llu Jàg. y , t , : ., '=. .1- : .',=%

. . .$u a'4

According to above recipe first add caustic soda with sequestering agent and

colloid protecting agent in the dye-bath containing water (60C) and after amoment add hydroze and stir it for few minutes. Then pour the mixture of dyes

(with hot water) and T.R. 0. into the dye-bath and stir for 10 - 15 minute.

Step - 11 (Dveinq):

The predetermined amount of cotton gpods is immersed into dye-bath. In that

time need to add additional caustic + hydroze mixture with required amount of

hot water into dye-bath to maintain 1:10 - 1 :15 Iiquor ratio. During dyeingprocess 'air contad' may oxidize the dye-bath, which can hinder the successful

dyeing.

Procedure -

First, prepare the causlic (4 - 6 gm/l) + hydroze (2 - 3 gm/l) mixture with hotwater and pour it into 'vat solution' in Mtimes with 5 minutes duration. And run it

at 70 - 80C for 30 - 45 minutes. Addition of caustic + hydroze mixture depends

on the pH of the bath - if exist desired pH (10 - 12) in bath, then, it is notnecessary to add additional caustic and hydroz in dyeing stage.

Usually, the dyeing temperature is gradually raised to about 80C, or even high ifthe dyes are not sensitive to over-reduction and more stable to hydroz. The

temperature of 100C and a Iittle higher may also be possible, where Ieveling inIighter shades or poor penetration in tighter constructions may be a problem

. Inhot dyeing requires higher amount of caustic and hydroz

, and need to useretarding agent to avoid unlevel dyeing. On the other hand, the cold dyeingrequires Iess amount of caustic and hydroz, and need to use salt for complete

exhaustion of medium to heavy shades.

According to application method vat dyes are classified several groups. The

different criteria of evatting' and 'dyeing' of these classes are given below -

Dye Process temp. CC) Added reagent (gm/lit)class Vaûing Dyeing Caustic Hydroze Salt

(NaOH) (NaCl)IN . 50 - 60 60 - 70 5.0 - 12.0 4.0 - 8.0 x

IW 50 40 - 50 2.0 - 6.0 1.0 - 4.0 3.0 - 5.0

IK 50 20 - 30 1 .0 - 4.0 0.5 - 3.0 5.0 - 15.0

Step - Ill (Oxidationl:

After dyeing the reduced dye molecules are penetrated and distributed into the

sber. The exhausted dyes are then oxidized to conved it to insoluble form into

the sber. Before oxidation rinsing is ve@ important for medium to deep shades to

wash out the alkalis, reducing agent and loosely attached dyes; with heavy

shades it might be necessary to include 1 - 2 g/I of both caustic and hydrosulste

and a Iittle bit dispersing agent, for about 5 minutes at ambient temperature.

The oxidation process can be done in contact of air or other oxidizing agent.

Oxidation with oxidizing agent -

Oxidizing agent Amount (gm/I) Temp. (*C)Hydrogen peroxide 0.2 - 1.0 25 - 60

Sodium peroxide 2.0 - 3.0 30 - 40

Sodium perborate 1 .0 - 3.0 50 - 70

Hydroze 0.05 - 0.1 Normal temp.

. . . .t =Q< t. . plxrawx. , . s ..+4 . a

. .. ox. . u

.j . : 1 : . , # ' 1 #. l . 1 - - =. AU t:r JC.. T' -7. 5 . . > !; y u > . - .(V . u 1 Ik'..C ' . . y6 . ' à' 7 't iz ' = . z u ' r 'Ah p p. l .. fi b. T ' ' . v à id Yx ' wAdïL 5 2' 'L' ' ' ' '. r m,,1J g, . $. pu xsjl. ,sj?ë; jp's. . . . . --- . .. .( h u hlp. .,:u. ->.z- x . -.g. - . u .:;.. .1, yk EJ . , ,J. ehh a. .- . 53 n ' , Rcsq ' ' é -J. )s v. . I g . . ' . '. . . >' , .9 f , m ' .1 ' e . ' ' ' ' ' 'g 6 . . = u j . t =!. - !è .wefi. . '1i . . q t. . . . . . . . -. y Q . ;' ' d .7 71.% J ' + ' ' ' ' E ' .- '% - ' ' ' ë ' -

Step - IV (Aoedreatmentl:

Typical reclpe for soap wash -Detergent = 2 - 4 gm/l

Soda ash = 1 - 2 gm/l

Glucose

Temperature

Time

M:L

Then rinse the goods with cold - hot - cold water successively. If necessary,

neutralization rinsing is done with acetic acid. Finally soften the goods as

requirements.

= 3 - 6 gm/l (if necessary)= 95 - 100C

= 10 - 20 min

= 1 : 1 0 - 1 :20

4.13.2 Garm ent dyeing process with vat dyes

The followirig process is suitable specially for garmeht dyeing.



Levelling/dispersing agqnt = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

Retarding agent = 5 - 10 g/I (if necessary use in hot dyes)Dyes = X% (owg)Caustic soda = Y g/1 (according to vender recommendation)

Hydroz (sodium hydrosulfite) = Z g/I (according to vender recommendation)Temperature = 70 - 80C

Time

M:L

= 30 - 50 min

= 1 : 1 0

$3Q

Typical AQ. vat reduction c/la#.'

D e 'A ow Rea ents W arm d ein Hot d ein0.1 Caustic flakes = 3.0 - 4.0 g/I = 6.0 - 7.0 g/I

Hydroz = 3.0 - 4.0 g/I = 6.0 - 7.0 g/lCommon salt = 5.0 - 8.0 /1 = 0

4.0 Caustic flakes = 4.0 = 4.5 g/l = 7.0 - 8.0 g/IHydroz = 4.0 - 4.5g/I = 7.0 - 8.0 g/lCommon salt = 10.0 - 12.0 /1 = 0

8.0 Caustic flakes = 4.5 - 5.0 g/1 = 8.0 - 9.0 g/lHydroz = 4.5 - 5.0 g/l = 8.0 - 9.0 g/lCom mon salt = 12.0 -'15.0 /1 = 0

Nole.' considerin M:L = 1: 10

6igure: Process cJlve (dyeing of colfon goods with Fat dyes)1:1

Pp cedure -

1. First, set the dyebath with substrate at 40C and add wetting agent,

sequestering agent, Ievelling agent, retarding agent (if necessary), and thenrun for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. Add dyes according to substrate weight and run the bath for 5 minutes.

3. Add 2/3 of caustic soda requirements, and run for 5 minutes.

4. Raise the temperature to 70 - 80C @ 2 - 3c/minute, and run for 5 minutes.5. Add sodium hydrosulfite (hydroz) to the bath with rest 1/3 amount of caustic'

requirements.

6. Run the bath for 30 minutes and maintain redudion by checking with vat

redudion paper.

7. Ovemow rinse until clear with cold water.

Oxidation - .

Aqer dyeing cycle penetrated and distributed dye molecules are oxidized to

conved insoluble form into the s- r. The oxidation process can be done in

contact of air or other oxidizing agent. For example, the oxidation process can be

carried out treating the dyed gnM s with 0.5 - 1.0 g/I hydrogen peroxide (35Yo) at30 - 50 C for 10 minutes.

Soaping -

Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 gm/l*vSoda ash = 1 - 2 gm/l

Glucose = 3 - 6 gm/l (if neœ ssary)Temperature = 95- 100C

Time = 15 - 30 min

M:L = 1 :10 - 1 :20

Then rinse the goods with cold - hot - cold water successively.

Sonening (optional) -1. Treat the goods with 1.0 - 2.0% softening agent (cationic) at 50C for 10

minutes.

2. Drop.

3. Finally dry the goods for use.

4.14 Dyeing of cotton wlth azoic colors

Azoic colors are not ready-made dyes Iike reactive dyes. The insoluble azoic

colors are synthesized inside the sber by coupling of two individual components

neither of which is a dye itself. These two componenl are an aromatic

diazonium sajt and an aromatic hydroxy compound (e.g. naphthol). First, thecotton goods are impregnated with naphthol solution called naphtholation, and

then these goods are treated with diazo base component (diazonEum salt) calleddiazotization. After diazotization the adual color is developed in the substrate. In

application of azoic colors, the 5rst step in selecting the most suitable diazo and

coupling component œ mbination for a particular purpose is to decide which of

the available naphthols, when dissolved in alkaline solution, give anions with

suitable substantivity for application by the desired method - which usually

means with the available equipment. The second step is to decide which of

these naphthols can be used in conjundion with the available diazo components(fast bases or salts) to give the color closest to the desired shade and depth.substantivity is important charaderistics for seleding the naphthol type - Iow or

medium substantivity ar: most suitable for continuous dyeing, but high

substantivity is suitable for exhaust dyeing especially for garment and terry towel

dyeing.

Azoic colors are commonly used for dyeing of cotton although other cellulosic

fibers. wool, and even some synthetic fiber as well. The main advantages of this

dyes is that they produce an economical way to obtain certain shades, especiaffy

fed with very good wash fastness. The whole dyeing process is divided into

three stages -

Naphtholation

Diatotization and

3. Aftedreatment

Step - I (Preparation of naphthal solutlonl:

Hot dissolving prodess -First, make naphthol paste with wetting agent (e.g. T.R. Oil). After that add

necessary amount of caustic soda solution (1.0 - 2.0 gm/l, 62OTw NaOH) andboil it to prepare a clear solution. According to naphthol type and substantive

nature, common salt (10.0 - 20.0 gm/l) may be used to accelerate the process.Consider 1:10 liquor ratio and temperature from 30 - 80C. Naphthol dissolution

varies manufadure to manufacture, thus to achieve desired naphthol solution, in

most cases a dyer should follow the instruction from the potential suppliers.

Necessary amount of T.R.OiIand Caustic soda toprepare naphthol solution:

T-R. Oil (50*/0) in Caustic soda FormaldehydeNaphthol type WI (62@Tw) In W1 (40*/0) in Wl

ASG 1.0 3.0 X

AS 1.0 1 .5 1.0

AS TR 1.0 2.0 1.0

AS SW 1 .0 3.5 - 4.0 1.0

ASD 1.0 1.5 1.0

;

. : .u , y. .. t ';i L: 4 '.t@ 1p* dJ:A . - . . . *. ( ....ér x'zr o .a. -j... . =ï.. e . ,:. .si(., .:. ' .gygjyua : ugjgjy y m

T.R. OiI (50%) in Caustic soda FormaldehydeNaphthol type

g/I (62% w) in g/I (4010) in g/IASBO 1.0 2.5 - 3.0 1.0

ASOL 1.0 1.5 0.5

AS BS 1.0 1.5 1.0

AS SA 1.0 1.0 X

AS GR 1.0 1.0 X

The substrate is then immersed into naphthol solution and ensures that the

goods are properly impregnated with the solution. This process is done at normal

temperature for 30 sec to 1 minute.

Step - 11 (Development):

Preparation of Fast-base solution -

A) In this method, make base paste with warm water and sodium nitrate, thenadd 32OTw HCI and stir fast with ice pieœ to maintain the temperature around

IOOC. After 20 minutes add sodium acetate and acetic acid. 10 - 20gm/I

common salt can use to achieve good result. Finally, the solution is collected for

development the actual color.

B) ln this method, make the base paste with warm water and 32OTw HCl thenadd more water. After that add sodium nitrate and stir the solution to mix

properly. Let to stay the solution for 20 minutes - diatotization readion will occur

in that time. Now add sodium acetate and acetic acid to prepare final solution.

In both cases of fast-base solution preparation, perfect amount of ingredients in

mixture is very important otherwise the emciency of diazotization and coupling

will suffer and resulting goods may have a poor appearance, be off shade, have

poor wetfastness and other defects.

' ?>':'i#r:-:j?k?)i)f. ''?1?-3',f:'' y;:.r 'f '977' .ïL1ï' .'. . :.f . , . ...0. . ). .. . # -ç ît rr : .: ) .y . .'' .

' ' 'llk.i j tiii2. z. E .lllg lljiï . .. ;. .Ji . . tuy . . .. ..-1. , : -. t) : . 1. .1 . - - - .' : - . . .1.è'7211 : i'.. ): . . . ' :.. 2 . ':r ' ' '-. I#.7:x<rx'r:.u ! 7. è . ..

Developm ent process -

The preimpregnated (i.e. naphtholated) goods are then squeezed to removeexcess (about 50%) naphthol solution otherwise the development reaction mayoccur with the naphthol outside of the sber which led the wastage of colors. The

goods are then soak into the fast-base solution, within short time the desired

color is developed in the substrate. The temperature and PH of fast-base

solution can affed the pedormance of dyeing. Usually, the PH of diazonium salt

solution in developing bath should be 4 - 6 range and the temperature of not

more than 20C. Buffering combination of acetic acid and sodium acetate can be

used to provide pH from 3 to 6, others are not impossible; temperature can be

maintained by adding ice piece in the bath. For exception, consrm the better

result, need to follow the vender instrudions.

Step - III (AAedreatmentl:Immediately after diatotization the substrate is squeeze and wash with cold

water and soak in 2 - 3 mI/I HCI (32@Tw). And then wash with the followingsolution

Soap = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

Soda ash = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I


Time = 15 - 30 mins

M:L = 1:10

Finally, apply successive rinsing with hot and cold water, and if necessary treat

with acetic acid to neutralize the residual alkalis.

Note; Washing temperattzœ should be below 65C in the caae of Naphthol AS + Fast Yellow G%

Naphthol AS + Fast Orange Gc and Naphthol AS-SN + Fast Yellow Gc.

iki- ! ; 33,,. ) -. ,i;'..: i. lr ' 'rjjjj;.. ''$::!jjjk' . ;jjjjjjj'

. SQZ. f'.' : '

4.15 Dyeing of cotton with sulfur dyesNowadays the dyeing of sulfur dyes is declining day by day because ofenvironmental sensitivity of these dyes. But till to day it is very popular dyes fordyeing of black shade. The main advantage of these dyes is cost effectiveness -it doesn't need any bleaching process before dyeing. Suffur dyes exist as apigment form which does not have amnity for cellulose. They are conveded to awater soluble form having affinity for cellulose by treatment with a reducing agentunder alkaline conditions. After exhaustion of the reduced dyes, sulfur dyesmust be oxidized to achieve insoluble pigment formation into the fiber. Sodiumsulfide is a usual reducing agent to dye cellulosic goods with sulfur dyes. Sodium

sulfide is very sensitive to Copper (Cu) and Aluminum (Al) that's why it needs toavoid contacting of these materials in dyeing process. Besides that air contactduring dyeing may cause premature oxidation Iead to yellowish effect on fabrics.It can overcome by adding a bit of glucose or a suitable antioxidant in dyebath.

Before dyeing sulfur dyes is treated with sodium sulfide for making soluble dye

solution. Pouring enough boil water in the paste of dyes and sodium sulfide cando it, and at the same time it needs to stir for 10 to 15 minutes. After preparing

the dye solution (reduced and dissolved) dyebath is prepared by adding sodaash with water including necessary auxiliaries such as wetting agent,sequestering agent, odor masking agent etc.. Raise the temperature to 60C andadd dye solution and half of salt to dyebath. Then raise the temperature up to 90

- 95 C and run for 30 - 60 minutes (as required).

4.15.1 Dyeing with insoluble sulfur dyes

Typical reclèe for suitur dyes -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Sequestering agent = 1.0 - 2.Q g/l

Sulfur dyes = X%

Sodium sulfide (Na2S) = 3 - 6 g/ISalt (glauber/common) = 10 - 20 g/I

. q-L : -.)rz' kj.J'.é ; j'g jkqgHq j k;j;yj,à. n )jg'.t -p; p. 4,y!7 j ( y h UE yw., . z . . .2..) . t -- . ,.g ; q . z .yj- . - .. . . k rki , , : g... ëy . ..:: !jj. ..' V i ''' ' 8h' x9;p(. !. )t'

a.,k>#, t p*l:;'îl..M. ,L. '''.'. D' '''ibit '' ''.:.-11!-. -'' . . '.. - u . . .uv.. t u.)1rg. lk'rlcayz-vrir .t(,f .

Soda ash = 1 - 3 g/ITemperature = 90 - 95CTime = lhrs

M:L = 1 : 10 - 1 :20

132


First, prepare the dye solution - make paste by adding wetting agent, sodium

sulfide (usually 1.5 times of dye amount) and Iittle bit hot water with dyes, and

then add enough (around zotimes to dye amount) hot water to the paste and boilit f

or 10 - 15 minutes.

. . . .4k ... L fr. . : y$6 4' >!k' >1' . 14 L''il: ' 'Y@f sMxxrm=5-' '. . . a . 2 k n. .u'-i. <.a' éxs' j : . : ' 1i. ; îzg.21. . = ' . V ae 'hq v ur-;w ' (X. d -. c d; . '. ..z . . . . .' . f . . . -' y

Procedure -

Prepare the dyebath with substrate at room temperature.

2. Add necessary amount of soda ash with water and raise the temperature to

60C, and then add the prepared dye solution into the dyebath.

3. Add required amount of salt into the dyebath.

4. Close the dyebath and raise the temperature to 90 - 95C and run for lhr.

5. Cool down the bath and drop.

6. Carry out the aftertreatment process to improve the colodastness.

Aftertreatment -To improve the colorfastness to washing the dyed fabric is then squeeze and

treat with 2 - 4g/1 soda ash at 70 - 80C for 10 - 15 minutes.

But to dmprove both Iight and wash fastness, the dyed fabric is theh squeeze and

treat with the following solution at 70 - 75C for 10 - 15 minutes.

Potassium dichromate = 0.5 - 1.0g/I

Copper sulfate = 1 .0 - 2.0g/I

Acetic acid (30F/o) = 1 - 3.0g/l

Oxidation -Oxidation is done with 1 - 2 g/l hydrogen peroxide at 60C for 15 - 20 minutes.

Rinse and wash to improve colorfastness.

4.15.2 Dyeing with pre-reduced sulfur dyes

Fypl'ca/ recl/e -Anionic wetting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Sequestering agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Polysulfhide reducing agent

h8, . . . . . 2' iqtytkrJt!. . : . . - k . ... x.- , v .,7 j,.. -)j .)4. )j ; .. g.- ;

. - -- ---, ,-. -.- .---. $' ----)--. . -' .- --.. î't ..-:...-- -. . -... ..--..-; .r-,''-.. i'!. : - - .- - - . .....--b.. .

Or, suitable antioxidant = 5.0 - 10.0 g/IOdor m asking agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/ILubricant = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/l; (an anionic dispersing agent)Dyes (pre-reduced)Glauber/comm on salt

Temperature

Time

M:L

= X%

= 20 - 30 g/I

= 60 - 90C

= 40 - 60 m inutes

= 1 : 10 - 1 :20

Figure.. Process ctzrve (dyeing of coflon with pre-reduced sulfur dyes). ,.x

'. i,..

'

--..

'

:--,. --.

'

,. .

'

. . -..r1111.> 1pk* . '''

Procedure -Prepare the dyebath with substrate at 30 - 400 C, and polysulsde reducing

agent with wetting agent, sequestering agent, odor masking agent.

2. Run the bath for 3 minutes, then add dye over 5 minutes.

3. Raise the temperature to 50C for blue and navy shade, 80 - 90C for deep

black shade and 70 - 80C for other shades.4. Add calcium free common salt over 20 minutes. Then it needs to run for 20 -

30 minutes for dye exhaustion.

5. After overflow rinse carry on the oxidation process.

Oxidation -Oxidation can be done with a suitable oxidizing agent, or with below recipe -

Hydrogen peroxide (H2Oa), 35t$= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/lAcetic acid (56%) = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l; (pH 4 -5 )Run for 10 - 20 minutes at 50C, and then rinse.

Soap wash -

Soap = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Soda ash = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Run for 10 minutes at 70 - 80C, and then rinse again until clean.

Softening (optional) -Run 10 minutes at 50C with 2.0 g/I nonionic soqener, and then drop.

4.15.3 Dyeing with watereoluble/ Ioweulfide sulfur dyes

Typical œ cfpe -'

W etting agent

Sequesterant

Salt (Ca free)

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 20 - 60 g/l

Dyes = X% (owg)

Caustic soda (500/c) = 5.0 - 10.0 g/lNon-sulfide reducer = 10.0 - 15.0 g/I

Temperature = 95 - 100C

Time = 20 - 30 m in

M: L = 1 : 1 0

iT i E(j.. ....-f(Ayx ) . jygV fl'lsutg! '.' .- j i- rj k . .

Figure: Process ctp/ve (dyeing of collon with water soluble sulfur dyes)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate at 40C and add bath auxiliaries.

Add common salt, alkalis and non-sulfide reducing agent, after few minutes

add dyes. Salt can be added step by step after reaching the dyeing

tem perature.

3. Run the bath for 5 - 10 minutes and raise the bath to 95 - 100C @ 2-3c/minute.


5. Overflow rinse until clean, and carry on oxidation process.

Oxidation - .

Oxidation can be done with a suitable oxidizing agent, or with below recipe -

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), 35% = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IAcetic acid (560/0) = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l; (pH 4 -5 )Run for 10 - 20 minutes at 50C, and then rinse.

Soap wash -

Detergent

Soda ash

Run for 10 minutes at 70 - 80C, and then rinse again until clean.

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Softening (optional) -Run 10 minutes at 50C with 2.0 g/I nonionic soqener, and then drop.

4.16 Dyeing of cotton with pigment

Actually pigmepts are not dyes - organic or inorganic coloring substances and

have no affinity to fibers. According to the definition proposed by Colored

Pigments Manufacturers Association - ''pigments are colored, black, white or

141

fluorescent padiculate organic and inorganic solids which usually are insoluble

in, and essentially physically and chemically un affected by, the vehicle or

substrate in which they are incorporated. They alter appearance by seledive

absorption and/or by scattering of Iight. Pigments are usually dispersed in

vehicles or substrates for application, as for instance in inks, paints, plastics or

other polymeric materials. Pigments retain a crystal or particulate structure

throughout the coloration process., Generally, the finely divided pigments

provide negative surface charge when dispersed in water. This negative surface

charge has been put to good use in textile coloration for attracting the pigment

particles to fiber surfaces on which cationic (positively charged) groups havebeen attached.

In pigmentation of textiles, there is no chemical reaction happen between the

sber and the pigment. Since pigment has no attraction the fibers, thus the fibers

are treated with a suitable cationizing agent (e.g. cationic polymers of

polyacrylates, polyimidazoles) for creating an attraction of anionic pigment tosbers. This process is called cationic pretreatment. Mainly pigments are used in

printing and woven dyeing, and to color garments without adually dyeing them.

Pigment dyeing on garments is very popular and common in textile coloration

5eld. The pigments are simply set on the surface of the fiber and held on with aid

of binders. By putting color only on the surface of a garment, a washed out,

faded look similar to denim jeans can be created.

The below job sequence should be followed in exhaust method of pigment

dyeing:

Cationizing

Pigmentation

Binder application

Aftedreatment &Softening

A) CationizingTypical recipe -Cationizing agent= 4.0 - 8.0 g/IAcetic acid = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ITemperature = 40 - 50CTime = 20 - 30 minPH = 4.5 - 5.5M :L = 1 : 1 0 - 1 : 20

Procedure -1 . Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add cationizing agent.

2. Run the bath for 5 - 10 minutes and add acetic acid to maintain slightly

acidic pH.


4. Drop the bath and rinse twice with warm and cold water successively.

'. mtl' ,/ tl: e FwG .uk Au'-'t' n'tk'tz .i .N'!=q' ' ' xlwi ' . ' '. ' ''%.&X X.. = w : . . ' #; J = Yw.us ' = . ' = . .v K9 ' . k . : . ' ' . 'z . 1ç> . . . . . $ .z .+ x :.g .: .rp= .w - . x- . . . . . . .r/ . crj 7 4 ' J* L-..A.' ' ' ' . . ' G.L . ' l ' ' ' '. h tw . IJ c 'r'w. r -. ,-Q . - . = < . k m . . ' . i ' . ' ' E ' ' ' 'Vs T':G Nj '*G.A W>-&. ..+'' . - 2'.' ' v ' + '- -' ' 4 ' . ..b ' : ' .'.. ! , .T. . . (* . i'7 'S e ' . . = z ' . 2. y'Jw . w V. 6 . u . rz J ' ' ' . .ç/r ,4,..A k.z . ëat&.>p.l Xm ' ' ' . 1. %:. ' . J. .! . u= . . : . .ge.. : .'va..:y. /:+ x mà(a. = 'è> . '. 4j( . >w. . . . o , t . . . . . . , w 1. : : .Fa ivdiq ry :>>. h:<mr>W *W. ' -5 ttke'' ' = MiIijkEIdk,yUEE'E ' =v.=. rsI;;I!11h(2'-. -'+-'.>uxl=' .u4suz,t!..!p. . u..c'-i- . v z2h:..%m,. w . .r i . '..;t.. ' . .. b'' ' . 'J' ' '

j!iil /'- lri!ip lrlrgm en OCl

Typical recipe -

Pigment = X% (owg)Acetic acid = 0. 5 - 1.0 g/I


Time = 15- 30 min

PH = 4 - 5

M : L = 1 : 1 0

146 Flnure: Process ct//ve (dyeing of cotton with pigment)

. . . ; . .c . ... .: ' '. . '..u.,ruwu ihl; +.x .PAu .> AJN : fmrîyq. . x*ipy 1+4% +h: r:' ktel.z ' .! .u. s . > . , : ) . . , ..u .. . L = .s x L .u : < r y = . . .. . = ï. = . . . . i =1-1. . . -:11,, 11!, ' . ..- : G- '': ' '% - 4 1! f' g C'. ', k ,-igb'

- .. . h . , . :% ''.! $ça 1 o .A. 3 . z'L 4. =W W:JI V ; alrw'lli, '. .. . . s . v A- y<

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with cationized substrate at room temperature.

2. Run the bath for 5 minutes and add pigment in bath, then run for 5 - 10

minutes again.

3. Raise the temperature to 60 - 70 C @ zc/minute.4. Run the bath for 10 minutes and add acetic acid to confirm desired PH Ievel.

Maintaining a constant PH Ievel is very impodant to avoid batch to batch

variation.

Run the bath for 10 minutes again at the same temperature (60 - 70 C).6. Cool down to 40 - 50 C and drop the bath.

7. Rinse twice or more with cold water to remove Ioosely attached pigments.

Then carry on the aftretreatment process to fix the pigments with fibre.

C) AftretreatmentFor fixing the pigment with fiber the substrate should be treated with following

recipe'.

Acrylic binder = 3.0 - 5.0 % (owg)Acetic acid = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Cationic softener = 1 .0 - 3.0 % (owg, based on requirements)Temperature = 50 - 60C

Time = 10 - 15 min

PH = 4 - 5.

M '.L = 1 : 1 0

Then rinse to wash out the Ioosely attached pigments and other unexpected

chemicals. Softener is optional process.

147

d Pretreatment anddyeing of

jute boods

Jute fibers are mainly used for making packaging materials and a small quantity

is used for producing diversified valum added products Iike cudain, upholstery,

soft Iuggage, fancy dress materials, cables, carpet backing, wall coverings,

oated textiles, automotive textiles, reinforced composite materials etc. Ii is açbast fiber compose with cellulose (62-65%), hemicellulose (22%), Iignin(1 1.8%), èil and wax (0.4*), Ashes (0.7%) and coloring matters. It is necessaryio incorporate small amounts of mineral spindle oils into the fiber dpring

conversion into yarn. These impurities are mainly responsible for creating

different problems during processing of jute fibers. In pretreatment process, mostof these impurities are removed before dyeing. The main difference is of

pretreatment jute sbers require Iess amount of caustic soda compared to cotton

treatment. But to achieve good results in pretreatment the jute goods need somesm uential operations -

1. Scour

2. Bleach with sodium chlorite

3. Mild scour

4. Bleach with hydrogen peroxide

5. Rinse

5.1 Scouring of juteJute has a ve@ good resistance to alkalis but easily attacked by hot dilute or cold

concentrated mineral acids. It is not so rich for cellulose - has a Iot of natural

impurities. Attaining full scouring is dimcult due to Iarge amount of unexpected

substances which can decay or weaken the fibers. Thus, jute scouring is done

with alkali treatment. To remove the added and inherent impurities from jutefiber, it is treated with the following recipe -

W etting agent (TRO) = 1.0 - 2 g/IDetergent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Sequesterant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Caustic soda = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Soda ash = 3.0 - 5.0 g/I

Tempefatpre = 90 - 95 C

Time = 45 - 60 min

PH = 10.5 + 0.5

M:L = 1 :10 - 1 220

=.w. .=. . tr . . ..j#wfa' .' ... = . . z . .s -. .. j. . - . z#. . .. . =Q j R u 2k. .

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.; .:J, 4. fs jjy. j:,èyp.jqr.z r. ztûtlplkj I.fLx j..#q.k.y.:'a.' #(;,7yrjI.sqaz:: Aj.; ., ,/jjjstt: j.jlq.,. p.y. 24,ët1:,,/,. tr'...jo. .. . . .- ... - ji - ,, -.-..--k,- -- , ..-z-.-,,-, . j,- . --

Figuœ: Process ctzlve (scouring ofjute)

Procedure -


detergent, and sequestering agent.2. After few minutes add alkalis and raise the temperature to 90 - 95C @

zc/minute.

3. Run the bath for 45- 60 minutes.

4. Drop and rinse twice with hot and cold water successively.

. I N. j : . : . . . . .E . J 4x., .J,k .. . r . s J . . .. . f . g 1.. , . .v. z. >lu i.c4.. FF .. .: . .VY = 1 n ' ' ' ' '. 4. . . . . - z. ..$ y . u n ..L . . .AXz'v': . ' . -

6.2 Bleaching of juteUsually, jute contains golden, reddish and cream to straw color itself. 'Lignin' isthe most impodant constituent part of jute fiber, which is mainly responsible forimparting coloring matters in jute fibers. This 'Iignin' can remove 30 - 50% bysodium chlorite bleaching.

A) Typical rec/ye for bleaching ofjute goods with sodium chlorite -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Sodium chlorite = 6 - 8 gm/l

Acetic acid = 1 - 3 gm/l


Time = 1 - 2 hrs

pH = 3.5 - 4.0

M '.L = 1 : 1 0 - 1 : 20

B) Bleaching with hydrogen peroxideWetting agent (TRO) = 1.0 - 2 g/IDetergent = 0.5 - 1.0 WlNa-silicate = 6.0 - 10.0 g/I


Soda ash = 2.0 - 4.0 g/l

Hydrogen peroxide 50% (w/v) = 4.0 - 6.0 g/lTemperature = 85 - 90C

Time = 40 - 60 min

PH = 10.5 -11

M:L = 1 :10 - 1 :20

Figure.. Process ct/êve (bleaching ofjutewith hydrogen peroxide)

Procedure -1 . Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with auxiliary agent,

stabilizer and caustic soda.2. Start to raise the temperature and add hydrogen peroxide after few minutes.

3. Raise the temperature to 85 - 90 C @ 1 - zc/minute.4. Run the bath for 40 - 60 minutes', for rapid bleaching need higher

temperature.

5. Cool down to 70C and drop the bath.% . Peroxide killing treatment can be applied to remove residual peroxide in

goods.

5.3 Combined scouring and bleaching of jute

Typical reclye -

Wetting agent (TRO)Detergc t

Sequesterant

Na-silicate

Caustic soda

Soda ash

Hydrogen peroxide 50% (w/v)Temperature

Time = 40 - 60 min

PH = 10.5 -11

M:L = 1 : 10 - 1 :20

= 1 .0 - 2 g/I

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 4.0 - 6.0 g/I

= 6.0 - 8.0 g/l

= 85 - 90C

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r.. ,.. :j.t . ..s: ..4.. .. ..&...k j. , tltr. jcdy. . jj 4w. ,.jyLm J.. ! s. .#j. ; S.V. jzlvu ,j;..CPIJ. qé . ) . . . . . . . . gywjiiu ==.s...,.!::j4.<ad. .===.g;;, =.r; -.ywr,.p,x:x :0 asx..s>,, . vjgtg. s . ?r5.,..j,,, J. .. ,!x.j. yjjj y..;z.j..z..,.j -y,.. .. y:.o.,ry, . =$j.... js.kj.. yye.yu. g4r.. .c..4j&.z -y rtj j.,.g ==>i .'):. :$ ;rI..&n d s,.sy . - r . . .=. . .. a.1:..w$,. k/ . rr. ..;A r mw. =.zq-;j. y C(.. yL. .fpk. . ; .. '.lj.. ., .' '.,: e9hgx.. Q/aj? . rr' ;<.t / m !J t ., jlt' 2..4.% . K $ .'a j IJPi '> <r' ' ,.) . . a : . , . . -u ij , y, p, y -i '(ù-'. ,.+ yk. j q y. . a :.L . !j%tj.l.. ' 4::g,.:: .:?ï . . sk . . (;k)j),. e=. .sk 1s.dik.v,:@ =jjjity '. rhu..'! %y j.s:;z.'. j.=.E..îv.J.A e:d, 4K=.!O . . ... . . . ' =' . .=...j . . ., rsyj : . = jhzs..:......à.E!:..j.;rr .. .,!jj. J.I r.#.. ... Az... !)rj..,i . !;s:. s. s ...rp s...A.. .Ià. n.jn j,. 'u ..<.,+..4.J(é.)..j , ..w. g...yu.u!.;#...J.=c,.rz. ra.$ïg a js/gjh:xy jI,$. <awq,..=='=Wa. *1,4y ,=gn ty:i:l!!œ's'.f1! : ay , . . . . . ' . '=zT. sz.. .a... ?qus( .c ...jï .k, ) 'j .cs . .==. t .: n; .. ., - clir =w o ujjr. p4,.!;p, v.Lz .j .w !jm ; ujy.p =.xJ .y... =p ; uttx.+:.J.)zws., j .N r...l)vwjj.. s j, v.)jg ==< jj.k ... u. cç. ....jjè .. wyjz jy.'.:k. $ - . . .. . . . - -. . $à:yrs;!. .!j(., ... .), :; . ..1. . @ - j gk . . r .! ..r, .. .: . . ys . ..jjrjj .. . l : , ( . .. I . t . j i;x ..u . . vw....p.jw*. ù 1.. ik ; gjxkly.v' ssxi . . ' '=''zcL )ï w , (..3. é ',,é.t.'js1 ' 'F j)z =J.zf.' ït.r ': jjjjjj. ' ' (a!.k. h 4;'n5gk.! i ' .!bv...o..â sjza. ;y: k. t-jg . q ).. Jr* :Fgt xy =...ldjj. ljélz<. Jx.. .:g. . kj!r. .. .'' s' . . . . :. . . ' ' . . p' .s. :>.. J s j .'i .c /!s!! y. :q. k!..r$1.j *....g' q 4k. .., ,..7..4. #j j:qs-;...c ...jt'($ .;AjL;,'ià.kj. 1$4.. Fz.; < à &4. 2i$ .:gy,'.x.:' '..s,..jî.;! .'g'':1.'., >b. . 1',y'w9., .'...k'I o.u.jyl. =

kk '' 1 Kga)>. - snh G r w.n . v. uc c . . - .. ,: . : . ..: . . .. . . - -.. .. J t1..: (. A.: J. .L g; ' ...f = t5gç . . 1. . . z . p jlt..u. ' . ..c, , ... i j t ;. qs,.. yzj;,:.& ..:. ;, ér.7!!- . . JI.>k. : . - . -- c . .. .- -. -'*! . k x . . Jlilz.: j, és.:.. i. L.k . : c .tp JN... . la x ; zl syp.er -.. . . .. . 4i! .k! Js 15M, .z, j i,' e7. v. ,I. : ) . è .sy. ,(? 7. . , k z;..i,j,.)7&; j. ç?tkIy . ëp o ) . . . = . . = 0..j:(.. . . . =q. . j k ..k sg. . zkjiufL. : ' ,.1.: < h dy 1 1..j .k : .. 132. . *171. . ,dq 1>1. @. ; . I , sùf $..ï '.,:d., . Aqhj ,z.;: . ):.pn f ër @ ..%;;ju.u =7i/ , up' yi/tiro' x - . .. ,. . ' . z&gys . -. -,'.= :! 'j. $ = 1., v:jg y I .- !tj''.4';ïN'%u1i?4' ..ky. <'q . 4)2. T'.jj,. . i.: .+:@)l.ly;'J 4 !. .'w' E ï.à h ..h, x-lyq 'rqr sj >.y uy..qm. z.kktjy. u s isqkns.m . s. .. . . . . . . . . . .<q. k:ï. .j psf plt... n. lu . . .. .A4. '. . l,.e. azlrr . . .t ! 4 jëk. .. .? q; y=;'.q....!$j;'. l., f.=j. zn..t.. 1;t,.T.j fr4jkj/j.fj f= ,( /..jj !kj;j;. 41.:.< r , . .. . x:z. ûgL. . . . : =. . j, ., :# h i24 /,;.k4 $. jj z hly . éjjtj p .rJ.j,,jru, :, ). .M. &c.. E Ii , Jj . ,,i.y jsjlj = . jrjtj.ap.g j:..jsjjj,(k. j . :. yykjsj :.-.p jg. s . :.j jhi.. .q,. z..,. . ;xx.. . . . . , .. = - . , : ,.. . $ ;ySù4I:. v. :f t.. . ,4. j:nv .,tpp Nu j jjSJ g %.s #. :. ...: j; .z. x ., .. . io y . q, , y.; %. ...jj?;tr - .s . . . .. j. . . ..sn . m qs.. x. .. . . . . .. . .. . .: . . . . - ..= gk.ç,. , ..jku.,sr, k)E..;:. yk...&y.:;4 ti ,); xjx ûo..;jës zr,.4jh, . wp. .Qc,m gyjjujt ;s.:k.=is. !jk,:&.'yryv':!yEr''.? ky> =. 4j$ju.,.<. sr v .2.jgt?h: jk =:.:=.,.jj. i. !t. ;);..L.n.. ..,rq jr.. 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' :.''N ' - ' ! 9 n 'Z'5'' . b %' ' ' 9' j- Ae i :1R II.,)Ib z . . 9 . . . .p. . . .. . . =. . . . .= . . . . A. =- ..i uk!é. k 'zT : y. -@ : > ((; .dkLrf g e gj . z r /: 'L ,s: . j' = . . I u !j... s vy.. .%.=.. s. . j$. rjjg.. n. .,. . -âJ$ . E k jfùk> ->' zzlipd/). '. q . %,,(j; . - ->. c ! - . . tk . -. . xrflj . . - ià . .. .c.'' . 11 @4. .. ;7t' kFup. . yqy ' I.# ..L' i.!3# a àI;&:q?4 ! ..) . i: u.rt. F . .;@rz . !J. , a.gr/. é! u . <qRp1t.. ' .' 4 xx= jlx cs -!kp-.. - i?5IY. .. . ., . . .. . . .. . .. . - e ' . . :q.. mzï.. i'.t. ,a::1! k t. JLykIF ' < . . Xp$';IE' -*- ' , x' i in'.l '. s J .. :; '' x :' 'f': IE'. c, . .L'tg p!.(. ..1 . :'' Jal't --j!: . i..J''j:uEyr. fsu f crj ' ' ,:x:z-Au, isïzE. .JE zz.. ,1 . . :! . . J . .. . . z .,. . qki - :l.is). EG' 1.'. s'p 'èk wEz yi .% z'At . ; arq.., u7 ' : . . , . .. . uf. . '- T: .... L yry' zu wduip.i kY. .. 1 . às. z,)p .,;k!)àk.. sI. ;1 . !...:z -... - .c a.uE 1. +. -. rfk .., : tjj.zu!hg.. -.,juï. . !t! ,.m. .j @ . 2. 6. .f;;ïd@- .js ste . ïr. ..(1 ,f>k - .:' .i . ..rir! yr .q. fC çpftt ' k.. , .va f.'. .El b'-'- 'E.J'. xT8.jrr uj. ..1. r .kà. p/l. . , 1. g'l g J :'zF il 't '4:.:-'ti.,': ; .= libk. Eq.> 44*.::j;(... .... .xn kk .... t, +c. '. vv .- '... Aj . = j , . . . . . . . . .i)ûi; 2.. '. . = .ys .ja Ayyro -. ): 4zI;è$ 'i'. mt ' #' ' . ' j1*4u.l tL =. .'' w ''k:):' .'.1)..... .L - N',g :!. '.. q;.:l , L kh ) . 'JEJ/E... . ,..e . .. , 296:. -: . I1ï . k 1;.. . ,,j .... eTàx.j .,jj$hs. z .. .. .. I . ssl I ,y. nelyi . . .. .:. . .. i.prjie. . . . . àrrlz.llct jjyu zqty.iiji,. . . .. , . . :;I - .. . . .. . . ! . ,i,.jz.. s,,,!.f .. éjjlr. 1::; i5. ,'$F .,, ,. ,,33. :., ;r:. .; I ' i. uulr:, Ii t. a' fQ'# ' i T zgj I.J. tti l t)' p ; ,;<' ' . .1 ft( . . . r . .v. ; . t... li . .. .),. ;'îi).. . z. . t.. , s . ; ;, àkk. .. u ...k.tt lces i r, 1 .::. c '.,'. . ..'. r,j . ':'if'. ,.1s <r.,zz:!-:k ). . kp)!-.u;jz: $c . /q j 11982,.. 'k@,i'.z . .1 t . . . . n. . .!).x :4, , ujj. E:y. .1 -rj4.. ! .. .z' . , .r . - gr.I. . .r. . k. . '2jjï.'. .-J. c.ry.. .1 ., . ..-yt.iw. ...q i t6$.: ?'. r'l ,,181t s -J. '. . .. . k . t . . :. .: : . .. v1 .- .) . 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Ao+.. jh .ik . i ï%;.='cu.:4 us. . â4q. p?zq.=jro4w: /$. kjbA.L !I!,.ï)4su .>à'( .' =1/', t . .. . .- 'z a&w.... # ? . skz. />: .J @k, ! '; h hJ. k'-ESF r ! hkki '.z .''' '' u éy!','. ' :L . : '&z I ké' ' u y ' ''tàykl'! e5I.',. .r'+. ihs .;.,1hà!L-1..:' b' as.';fyp i..g' 1/:.-t:'. .!j. trà#vpj' x >2: zi:l Ac?: sGx..->,s%? syq r.:4s.; e:: 41 y.i izslz. ! . . y sv. yps n::1 -;q J... ,-.>>. !.t , - AI:.c =='>!P. .. /:! X: àz v.( (j1!!j'';r' (u .k .,.1z . '.. 'p r5' l'I''s'f't h 11 aè .: r ',''' $ t nï:-:'. k . . h ' : '>Arf $. t' J, .f :;'j.c f.:r;:f'lio'. L '4 'LGbi' I a d.65œcqR..'=.L'à)FVfXzG'.' hK'. !'..'.JX.&:q'u2.i..' q.<'>. '.KvI.'(.L.','Jl Ilayég ilJtf. .t; i'lt.sc .wjyzwr i.1j.: q94.. :/ka:g J .....k ' =iu.;j';vs. 4 ;k 181. . . .'lïz% .'. , ' . 6'sx. *. /r8tqi.1;rq iMyil ï?i''' ='*'WloI$g islFdl $:'.1. f1. .fT'.t'. .il.. Ij.!' '.! 1.:' '! c .zl 7.'Ff'''.j1ll'.''tB.''-'7'J'i.''l.. ' .'i..G' ; ' . 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Lk' kr . ='= j .t. 2.. 45 l..eu ;iG'. x:. ::.

Figure.. Process ctzrve (combined scouring and bleaching ofjute)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with

stabilizer and caustic soda.

2. Start to raise the temperature and add hydrogen peroxide after few minutes.

3. Raise the temperature to 85 - 90 C @ 1 - zc/minute.

4. Run the bath for 45 - 60 minutes', for rapid bleaching need highed

temperature.

substrate at room temperature' with auxiliary agent,

5. Cool down to 70C and drop the bath.

6. Peroxide killing treatment can be applied to remove residual peroxide in

goods.

Note: subsequent scouring and bleaching process can be carr/el out to achieve good results in

pretreatment ofjute; as a result optimum bleached white is possible.

5.4 Whitening of jute(As usual', Iike other cellulosic sbers)

6.6 Dyeing of juteAlthough the dyestuffs that are suitable for cotton may also be applied for jutedyeing. But in practice, jute dyeing with these dyes has some deficiency. Thefiber has a special affinity to basic dyestuf, which provides brilliant shade even

on unbleached base. But the problem of these shades is Iower fastness to Iightand water. Acid, direct and sulfur dyes are increasingly fast in this order, but alsogive increasing dullness of shade - alI at reasonable cost. Very bright and fastresults are obtained with azoic and vat dyes, but their high cost confines this

application.

5.6 Dyeing of jute with basic dyesTypical recipe -

W etting agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I


Dyes = X0;


Glacial acetic acidTemperature

Time

M:L

= 1.0 - 3.0 g/I (to maintain PH 4 - 5)= 90 - 100C

= 30 - 50 mins

= 1 : 1 0. z ';1)t1(qj1.. -.. ' . .7 K--=J t ;;u .

,. ! -' fc ,.'',i l ; s v..5L -jMj u j : .%:F=q#F. .. . .. qjux.

. -T '' ''Z3lAt'ivljg-4yzjsttl-..- -(.ju ,.y' tttty . tjé-gy.j ) ( y v ) ) . j' y ; . . ) .. s :;; : . . ( . '' .' ivt-ï14-A)#4)s--#:i#q.' j-,ï- ).i - -.--'-'?.;: :)-' --- :t'- : - .1 ' . -..' ' -' l ' ' ''.è -. ' ?:8 --- '-- ' . .' i--: ,-C . .'- -' - '?-:')t:;j(r.... ..!itq.. é. . .*'- -,.-,;:?k,-- s v? 7..:. - . - . . --; . .. - -... . .. .... . ë' . . . . , . -. '- ',

'

. F . .- ê .-,. ...'C r ... - .-.. . - ' ...- . .

Dye solution preparation -

First, make paste by adding water, wetting agent and acetic acid with dyes; then

add hot (70 - 80C) water and stir it to make desirable dye solution.

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at room temperature.

2. Add required dyes solution into the bath with salt, acid and other bath

auxiliaries.

2* ' ''n = .;y ) '. x'rt 5 . .Ri * ' ' ' '. é

Run the bath with substrate for 15 - 30 minutes at lhe same temperature.

4. Raise the temperature to 80 - 85 C over 15 - 25 minutes @ 1 - 3c/minute.5. Run the dyebath for 30 - 45 minutes at 80 - 85C temperature.

6. Cool down the bath temperature to 60 - 70C.


Ane4reatment pmcess -The dyed goods need successive hot and cold wash to remove unsxed dyes for

improving colorfastness.

5.7 Dyeing of jute with chrome dyes

Typical reclpe -Weding agent (TRO) = 0.5 - 1.0 g/IDyes = X0;

Glauber salt = 10 - 20 g/l

Acetic acid (800A) = 0.5 - 2 g/I (to maintain PH 4 - 5)Temperature = 90 - 100C

Time = 45- 60 mins

M:L = 1:10

Dye solution preparation -First, make paste by adding water, wetting agent and acetic acid with dyes; then

add hot (70 - 80C) water and stir it to make desirable dye solution.

Iprocess ct/lve: as usuall

. . ,..b .E.. = c -; .xll.-' . . % e .1= . '%W z.''

-11j

Take dyes solution into the bath with salt, acid and other auxiliaries at 40 -50C tempefature.

2. Run the bath with substrate for 10 - 20 minutes at the same temperature.

3. Raise the temperature to 90 - 100 C over 20 - 30 minutes @ 1 - 3c/minute.

4. Run the dyebath for 45 - 60 minutes at the same temperatufe.

5. Drop the dyebath and carfy on the aqedreatment process.


The dyed goods need successive hot and cold wash to remove unfixed dyes for

improving colodastness.

5.8 Dyeing of jute with acid dyesTypical reclye =Dyes = X%


Acetic acid (80%) = 0.5- 2 g/l (to maintain PH 4 - 5)Temperature = 90 - 100C

Time = 45 - 60 mins

M : L = 1 : 1 0


First, make paste by adding water with dyés; then add hot water and stir it to

produce desirable dye solution.

Procedum -

1 . First, prepare the dye solution and take it into the bath with salt, acid and

other auxiliaries at 40 - 50C.

2. Run the bath with substrate for 10 -15 minutes at the same temperature.

3. Raise the temperature to 90 - 100C over 20 - 30 minutes @ 1 - 3c/minute.4. Run the dyebath for 45 - 60 minutes for complete dyeing.





5.9 Dyeing of jute with direct dyes

Typical rec/ye -W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Levelling agent

Lubricant

Dyes

Soda ash

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 3.0 g/l

=X%

= 1.0 - 5.0 g/I

Glauber/common salt = 5.0 - 20.0 g/l or more (based on dye concentrationand dye type or vender recommendation)

Fixing agent = 70/à (wet fastness improving agent)Temperature = 95 :t 5 OC

Time = 30 - 50 min

PH = neutral to alkaline

M:L = 1:10

Pœparation of dye solution -First, mix the dye with normal water and wetting agent to make dye-paste; thenpour hot water to dissolve the dye properly in solution. Stir the solution to obtainuniform dye concentration.

lprocess c&&e.' AS usuall

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath at 40 - 50C with substrate and add dye solution, soda ash

and other auxiliaries.

2. Run the bath for 20 -30 minutes at the same temperature.

3. Add 50% salt and raise the temperature to 90 - 100C over 20 - 30 minutes

@ 1 - 3c/minute.4. Add rest 50% salt and run for 30 - 50 minutes for complete dyeing.

5. Drop the dyebath and carfy on the aqertreatment process.

Anelreatment pp cess -

ln after treatment process a suitable fixing agent is usçd for improving color

fastness (wash, water, perspiration) propedies; usually this process is done at 30- 40o C sometimes at 60o C for 15-20 min or according to vender

recommendation.

The following treatment process can apply for improving wet & light fastness-


Copper sulfateAcetic acid

Temperature

Time

M:L


= 0.5- 2.0%

= 0.5- 2.0%

= 1.0 - 5.0%

= 80C

= 30mins

= 1 .. 1 0

- % Wq = = % '4..'2 . '- =- 'B RF - =' '

L= W ' ' ': **'

Y

6.10 Dyeing of jute with reactive (HENS) dyes'Although jute dyeing with reactive dyes is not very popular btlt it is possible to

dye the jute goods as the similar method of other cellulosic dyeing.

Typical recl/e -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I


Antifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Levelling agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Dyes NS/HE type) = X%Glauber salt

Or, common salt = Y g/I; (need more salt than other reactive dye)

Alkali (combined causticand soda ash) = Z g/I; (higher temperature need lower amount of caustic

soda)Temperature

Time

PH

M:L

= 40 - 80@ C (according to vendor recommendation)= 60 - 90 min

= 10.5 :i 0.5

= 1 :5 - 1 : 1 0

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I U . rOCeS.% CU e OJê? O &r& Iï reacrllo es

Procedure -

Set the dyebath with substrate at 30@C and add salt, dyes and other

auxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 15 minutes.

2. Raise the temperature to the optimum dyeing temperature of 60 - 80OC

@20C/min and add (dosing) alkalis at the same time.

3. Run the bath for 60 - 90 minutes at the same temperature.


Ln 2. A' ' c'. . , ;Qy ''rçyk èp's .. )),. . ,.-. g... ..,.... ëq E E..-. -. -. : -.. ... j.. . .:. -.::;ë!:. ,! a;. ; : .r wn'v .'Y t u L ' . ' '

Aftretreatment process -

For better colorfastness aftertreatment process is very important. First need


confirm that the goods are totally free from unfixed dyes. In case of deep shade,

it is recommended to give two soap wash with early mentioned (aftertreatment)

recipe.

8or anertreatment (soap wash) recipe -Detergent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

Lubricating agent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I


Time = 15 min

PH = 8 - 9


6 Pretreatm entand dyeing of

Iinen goods

6.1 Scouring of Iinen

Flax is a bast fiber Iike jute composed of cellulose 76% , wax Iike substances2.5% , Iignin 2.7% , proteins 2.5% , pectins 2.0% , ashes 0.8% and otherunidentified materials 13.5% - cellulose content is not as rich as cotton

. After'retting' - a process which separates the fibers from the woody matters

, the Iinenfiber is carried out to chemical treatments according to the expected subsequent

processes. Although it is a cellulosic fiber but it is more sensitive to chlorine,

alkalis, and acids than cotton fiber - easily attacked by hot diluted and cold

concentrated acids. So, it needs milder action of scouring and bleaching

treatments compared to cotton. Due to higher amount of impurities to beremoved, the pretreatment of linen has always been a costly and lengthy

operation. The introduction of sodium chlorite made a signiscant contribution

towards obtaining good results in a shorter time without excessivè degradation of

the fiber. The following sequence of operations has been adopted and found

successful in practice:

Bleach with sodium chlorite

Scour

4. Bleach with hydrogen peroxide

5. Rinse

Typical scouting rec/e -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Detergent

Soda ash

Caustic soda

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

= 0.5 -1 .0 g/l

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 3.0 - 6.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 80 - 85C

= 60 - 120 minutes

= 10.5 + 0.5

= 1 : 1 0 - 1 :20

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Figure: Process ctz/ve (scouring of Iinen)

Procedure lsimilar to jute .scol#pg, Ref 5. 11 -Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent

,

detergent, and sequestering agent.

2. After few minutes add alkalis and raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @zc/minute.

3. Run the bath for 45- 60 minutes.

4. Drop and rinse twice with hot and cold water successively.

s . . . . . . . . . . y . w . z . r, xv..zuA:. . . .iW . FG..'.rSq4Ww . w .

6.2 Bleaching of linen

Usually, the flax fiber is brownish or yellowish-white or grey in color. Although the

bleaching process of flax is similar to cotton but attaining pure white is more

difficult than cotton.

A) Typical bleaching recipe with sodium chlorite -W etting agent = 0.1 - 0.3% (owg)Detergent = 0.5 - 1.0 % (owg)Sodium chlorite (80%) = 2 - 4 % (owg)Sodium dihydrogen

Phosphate (anhydrous) = 0.3 - 0.6 % (owg)Formic acid = as required to maintain PH Ievel 3.8 - 4.2


Time = 1 - 2 hrs

M :L = 1 : 1 0 - 1 : 20

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Figure: Process ctzrve (bleaching of Iinen with sodium chlorite)

Procedure -


detergent, sodium chlorite, sodium dihydrogen phosphate (anhydrous) andnecessary amount of formic acid to maintain pl-l 3.8 - 4.2.

2. Run the bath for 20 - 30 minutes for better penetration.

3. Raise the temperature to 90C over 45 - 60 minutes.

4. Run the bath for 90 - 120 minutes', during this time formic acid should be

added to maintain the bath PH 3.8 to 4.2.

5. Cool down the bath and drop.6. Treat the goods with a scouring bath containing 2 g/I soda ash and 1 g/I

soap at 85C for 30 - 45 minutes.Carry out the next bleaching process with hydrogen peroxide.

B) Bleaching with hydrogen peroxide -

W etting agent

Detergent

Magnesium sulfate

Na-silicate = 3.0 - 5.0 % (owg)

Caustic soda = 0.2 - 0.4% (owg)Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 % (owg)Hydrogen peroxide 35% (w/v) = 0.8 - 2.0 % (owg)Temperature = 75 - 85C

Time = 2hrs

pH = 10.5 -11

M:L = 1:10

fprocess ctzrve.' as usuall

Procedure -

(Similar to jute bleaching, Ref. 5.2)

= 0.1 - 0.5 % (owg)= 0.5 - 1 .0 % (owg)= 0.1 - 0.3 % (owg)

6.3 W hitening of IinenBright white of linen can be achieved Zdding a suitable brightener in bleaching

recipe (Ref. 4.3) or in separate bath (Ref. 4.71.

6.4 Dyeing of Iinen (flax)Flax fibers are harder and sticky than cotton

, and dyestuffs do not penetrate soreadily into the fiber structure. In most cases, linen dyeing is carried out as the

same manner of cotton dyeing. Good quality dyestuffs are generally used to dye

the high quality expensive textiles. Vat dyes are used extensively used for Iinendyeing, giving excellent color fastness to Iight and washing

. Azoic and sulfurdyes are also used

, and some selected direct dyes with good Iight fastness areused for furnishing fabrics dyeing.

6.5 Dyeing of Iinen with vat dyes

The vat dyeing process embraces a series of operations such as vatting, dyeing,

oxidation and after treatment. Vat dyeing process for linen goods is similar to

cotton dyeing (Ref. 4.1 IJ process. The below steps are followed in vat dyeingPrOCeSS -

Step - I (Vattinq):

Vatting - 'vatting' is a process developed for reducing the vat dye into soluble

form. lt is done by treating the insoluble vat dyes with strong reducing agent (e.g

hydroze) in presence of caustic soda.

Typical recipe for vatting -

Vat dyes

Dispersing agent (T.R.O.) = Y gm/lCaustic soda

(66 - 70@Tw, NaOH) = 15 - 30 ml/lHydroze = 10 - 20 gm/l

Stir it at 60 - 70C for 6 - 10 minutes.

= X gm/l (for example, logms dyes in llit water)

#,,

Procedure -According to above recipe first add caustic soda in the dye-bath containing water

(60C) and after a moment add hydroze and stir it for few minutes. Then pour themixture of dyes (with hot water) and T.R. 0. and acetic acid into the dye-bathand stir for 10 - 15 minute.

Step - 11 (Dveina): .

The predetermined amount of cotton goods is immersed into dye-bath. In thattime need to add additional caustic + hydroze mixture with required amount of

hot water into dye-bath to maintain 1:10 - 1:15 Iiquor ratio. During dyeing prco ss'air œ ntacf may oxidked the dye-bath which œ n hinder the surnaqful dyeing.

Procedure -

First, prepare the caustic (4 - 6 gm/l) + hydroze (2 - 3 gm/l) mixture with hotwater and pour it into 'vat solution' in Mtimes with 5 minutes duration. And run itat 60 - 70C for 30 - 45 minutes or according to vender recommendation.

Step - Ill toxidationl:After dyeing the reduced dye molecules are penetrated and distributed into the

fiber. The exhausted dyes are then oxidized to convert it to insoluble form into

the fiber. The oxidation process can be done in contact of air or other oxidizing

agent.

Oxidation with oxidizing agent -

Oxidizing agent Amount (gm/I) Temp. CC)Hydrogen peroxide 0.2 - 1.0 25 - 60

Sodium peroxide 2.0 - 3.0 30 - 40

Sodium perborate 1.0 - 3.0 50 - 70

Hydroze 0.05 - 0.1 Normal temp.

Step - IV (Aoertreatment):

Typical recipe for soap wash -

Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 gm/l

Soda ash = 1.0 - 2.0 gm/l

Glucose = 3.0 - 6.0 gm/l (if necessary)Temperature = 95 - 100C

Time = 15 - 30 min

M :L = 1 : 1 0 - 1 :20

Then rinse the goods with cold - hot - cold water successively. lf necessaryneutralization treatment is done with acetic acid.

6.6 Dyeing of Iinen with reactive dyes

(Ref. 4.10)

6.7 Dyeing of Iinen with azoic dyes

IRef. 4.12)

6.8 Dyeing of linen with direct dyes

Selected Iinen dyeable direct dyes are used to dye Iinen goods (Ref. 4.9J.


w oolgoods

7.1 Scouring of wool

Raw wool contains a variety of different natural impurities - wool wax (18%),suint (10%), water (12%), and vegetable and mineral debris (15%). Since thewool fibers are affected by strong alkali so it is treated with mild alkaline

condition at a suitable temperature. If wool is treated with strong alkaline solution

especially at higher temperatures, it readily dissolves. In fact, 3% solution ofsodium hydroxide will completely dissolve wool at boiling temperature. Alkalis do

not impair the mechanical propedies of wool, but also causes yellowing', the

degree of changes depending on the time of treatment, temperature and the

concentration of alkali solution.

Fyp/cal scouring rec/e -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Detergent = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/l

Soda ash = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Ammonia = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I


Time = 15 - 30 min

PH = 9 - 10

M :L = 1 :10

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Figure: Process ctlrve (scouring of wool)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath at room temperature with wetting agent, detergent, soda ash

and ammonia.

2. Raise the temperature to 40 - 50C.

3. Run the bath for 15 - 30 minutes and then drop.

Rinse twice with warm and cold water.4.

7.2 Bleaching of wool

Hydrogen peroxide bleach is common method for bleaching of wool today. But it

can be done by other ways such as stoving (a treatment using gaseous sulfurdioxide) or soaking (a treatment using an acidified sodium bisulfite). 80th ofthese processes are backdated and dangerous because sulfur dioxide is

generated during these processes and react with water lead to form sulfuric acid.

For garment dyeing bleaching is done within a shod time.

Typical recipe for combined scouring and bleaching (rapid bleach) -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I



Sodium tripolyphosphate/

ammonia = 2 - 3 g/I

Hydrogen peroxide (35%) = 10 - 20 g/lTemperature = 70 - 80@C

Time = 15 - 20 min

pH = 8.5 + 0.5

M :L = 1 :10

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( .. aA;= =.;y@ ::. .;. . p .. . . , j y . w .. ., grzh... syt kd/ .: fkjj's.',kt,..#. ! . : '. z y.. j.. y4. . s ss.J.;,:;'uz':';,.,ji;è;iclj .:.:j%.1IW.' uyuk .zs>. .g ksa. czn . .... , .sx. ..,.. - - = =L ..u..= 51 .': ='q . ee- uxz s:à .. . jJ.z j. . syjy.....i = I,.ëS.fJ=. ' ==f; .. i lj u. ljâv ; ..4 .. ,2;. 1: .( tj: ,iyj.j.r.j; tjjE .;j.. ),yygz. jxjju j;f..Ittk,..;;;....j) q.);; r.J. q.a. :/ q..i 6L.' C12' .2$. t 51 .i(u9 q'g) rk1 y yg' ,) y.,! ù.j'.1.L,x c=.r%;2.uls.1i.c. J;J li'iila q ù Ip$.i12 ë'L . .èn v ''jj g...+''. . ==:..!I@r).. .f%=, '. . . . - -& ' . .:x ' 'ZC' *E yI,h'l:'d@1'' 'ï '1 .l: ! MJ ;'f.'f . yiulsj $ . vë. ,,!zkF. p. &. j)...j,.. )é .r.;k a. q. ..;y .:.;,y,. . , k.s. yX. '311 I<'ëk fp 4, .?: < js' 17';. w.,i';..f. .u.,v y au;.,.;J..j:y. : hèI=.a!&nu'R'i'N.. %=a.. '= '' ' ' yfrjj : . . .- . . ... zp.! ' ' .1lh12' ' y' lj flg g/5' : $>t zdî; .* L8'' Plz't?'.î' 'c:1,/ ' ' ' ''' u' . k '' ' . ' 6: .% zé '',. !ks )t. k1% '. .J r! .ï.). kt . jr... c .f; f, .=. +k.r=,<. j... .. f .. . =. . = . ... oc . -.=,. ï. u..... .. .. . ... ujwp arjk:. .=.bït =ë.,ijkk-= J;. I '.z E= k ï 8 b ' c :.P Tfri ' ; i!' Skllfiï kè .V l Cfllf' = 'i9' %1*. / ,14'..'3 t 3c:''!!q( . ö' c.. . ''t = .' 'J::; k ,1 :A>'it>-' i ,uji.. zt''p =.uz:=a tl j t Ji. J !.y f!e : g . :. . .y. . :* sn .. ' . z'ù.% vi tf ' * L ë. '' t$ 4' ' 'ï. k: Khi *f'' dha '$ l T l'R '' $ '' '' '' ' ': i ; 7 'E) Ln .: . èLdé' c k =;r ï sy .' ,1 iï'' s: Sé k . . it l tsels 4 ,. ïp !k . . yh ayç.a. . . n!;:.$a. n ,.. jrfj ùt J' 1 ' fi 4,I .1k...0 . gy= .:)a :. bil%z Bt C'''S 1l' Q P l ' * J t' e 'i $e+ '< . 3 ' ' = ':5 's* &Eik' :r nr:z ='' Jèr zrzR sdil. f>=W.KX4k!. =' tëx l;>Ah4'lf fèn 5 k. ;f@=tiye KA,.!I $Cl' '='-kii'= a= . u . n' ;k ud hî .i!1.. . ' t.L ..:ki:. U R q.; ..,l.i 2 P' 9L' . . ' tI3?cdq'Q 'XB JE' 1j1:/11' bLV. d i' 2:' T6 iH' '' ' @b* d' Z h:f1''' C 'i% a ''=''ë1F'. r: .;iEL...> v 4fs. )k .=.. .iL. yqx 3î. uu:x! . .. jrgj . sg .. .fi. . . . . .rj>s,= rjy. .. . Nk c.,y . .jr:k. srjr .r. . j .)j ...,j .# c : ï. r..: s...:s J! > =(): siEk' .JJ uqèj ,',. .a'gl,:'A. 'Cr. rfimjr'. 'c1-:'' i:-.zo ï q;., ..'. :':y'..' ;..&s e..j(yj : j) .. g %.r ;k . i. sz: ga . . . . ..zz.. ir&lqx:l # r#p4. , , . y ( z. # (L , . j f . . . = h . . s .;p. .t. . r:i : r.. . .: .; . .zp.... x...:y;i xop.u p . jg s dg .. . v J w *s . , tq:.. .;i -. . . ... Jlujjj . . ..:;sy9 . ' =-s. .. . jycîL > . xk . j .?r1 ? i (t ï l .gç.. . $!.. , ... !k 9. ,.5 e/'l/qf jli: .,$ 8.7 , w'.jj,yr. .yjjyjg me. .. . k. . c. a = . assaudns.m.yé:)J c.Jr' ft9'u!'. -u..j jr. .. lpVs ,1l..ld'.jsjj'7.i'. 1l: ;&i a;.'. . . J . y' . - e 1t. . .r.>y . . .r*= yr. . .. . !. :.1.-. . .. -. z.rJ j:,. Jjlàhi J-. lkj ayj...: '.jq).I..;;js. . g. j..I.a.a'.'+g kyg. y,.,jt.'., pjjk.:. gt;y.J)hk,?l. ltkj.. . ..t.. i. i q. ' y,. ?z.:.I.:y:sL Cjy.. g. ,,:,.':) qyji t,..'..;:s.sy zj;r jryy'. ..5.*' 1/' ', .2tké1y::.!4)r- . . =&=' .sx y#. 4l=J - : ipj.-nlfu' ëjy znêjj;.&;I,= . . . . . ' . ' ' w 2 ' '-ui'? 17(:7 ' 7 ' 11Bz'lkte ' = rl:rk .=.'(!ky. +z.e@n., <rv:j:*'...pv' Agk).. / : . . % . . . =' ' . . jltç xjjz H. t'. '2 lièkJ.'ïj.iX *$f. '. ;!$. ux' v. j4n.'. lL yu=*'= -1/%:*..p4 OL ' ' v-f ïI * k? 11. N 'r1:-'' I).Yî iljjl èb?1'. qrxyrlzé .?z)kk5a!:.. qawi.*. ' .:Ij2. . .. qNjP.,. h xr.. r vrs-zy : fj. = .. . . . . . ,1 . J:yt,.: #j,f''.j.Jr#A-. .I;;J'.j,:.frqj;n.,gyrJ!''p'11inyjfz jj F 'a?y. < t. r'= 4:.414(4;:.! ilrtn jysht' Iyfx.jttlT'slkuftp.' . -s2/. j;?s .. $j/Z:.j4..* 'r 'E.-u:d!.. .QY'L - '2' é! :7 -ql 'jsjrJy.= . . ''lF-aafijl.tqsfuuui' .' g/l ,'117 * wqp ':n 'jr . .xjl . nyr aui4j ëy.=q ..J; : gr pk.s gN,plL. kkksitr. . 'CjsJ4, qs=r.x=k%.. .. - .R t 4y y. ' ==.> y1.r.f. l =.=.' j p .z:. .. .' . '#ILfyfp;z ...'y'NiI.jjjk.. !:J - rljtjp. -/ - uy :J.NIA,. wtr !. .ajlrj=. yrjlurqot. . IJ 'p=',àg' yj. T. . . . . . . . . .j!' j à z: s. u,jg. . jy-uj .. g:. tjijcrpkj. . l:ki x'ij .. . . j !y: ut.g. .; t! r, . !/j x cjjj g,a. x ) sj. ., y.;rj . . y..zbïp. .. Kf . rlfq' iq AFIjQ' ï':,)): jyï#;=q!1q('':t..N5: luilku: kk. jr.y.ù yàIàk.-v:k.,- = k .jy.,:ya. . . .. ' . ' . C ç' .t éba . J. . .; j 5? . ,Jà ,: p: ;:))j:As yL.ç .#:v( . u'..y. yqss.i.>.&!.;: CEg/J rtt..! hr. ' = 7. s;. ! . .Cy ..ik j18 J r: .ùL. z: . tI ; . r @; tkko.jœ g i) th Nà .. : . . . . - . .. .k:t@ttll ;rL-'.. '1 : . ..?Fp . . . ;::t.. . . w zv rz - . d; jj)l .. c. Joyqi <ù --- . . . : : . I r 1) <. . . . . Iy . .j. u .c ; .' ril. ..:é.' . J ::. j2. ëjr j:. p . . ni. ùrlalys :; : Jy.eA% '' ;14. = :5y44j ër:R: hfâEk?!!Q-r- spk;.. >. klk-r. .. --' è: . . az iw (prkgs +w . o tv > hj;. t *.'!$1 !jr..l.vi R -' J',,;I .:aj;! .; :i !11. ;;::s aqr . . . '1ïq.'.'' .I; : . ' ks ;).kkl. .q.....!. j L. c.9u? u..$..>ï:$ . jr *. icjj,l:.i, .p '.j!k. .jkg !g zk...j:.zill-<K<. -ào -y,. * ' 'g-.lkp..- . . ' - . - . . .-. . ... ep.qjl:. . . $. ..p, J d !8:. . .s o j,a .jjk(j k .!$. .i. ..J; . , ,..;.à!('.. c. éilj.zssjka.. .>.' . ;sj àj... j.!;vaj : .&r. qs . j..z cg. ; 6:. /i$. .:k: ... luejqù aiE ;:( irxy.. . ,$ .; q-.u! ygr.uju. .jyj.us+.-vy-A yé au. . . . : - . . .. . . ... ..# q;;.. > , , ) . .!x..s.J 1.1, :s, vsww,J.é..uz' s;k.)ty : . e. .:.$. . . . ,.;gj,. ..â .Ks.l4q ; .1 u , !.. ntèt . %lK . : ex ; (k , ss-:.-. s=. .- .. . . . . ,p . . ' *. j' $'.'i* IJ ' i . . g . kt ,k:. . u 4)2 y.<>wk:k . -)K.,ï;.sk !fy ;zçt. c j. x i.4h. jg.# sk:. tE. qk uq<Is (r,i .EX. <.yc.u.1 t>. . fli;p w>.- . . . ! .. . kvyuzj . . . .. . ..... , ..k.> . w. ejx: s .lï . ,,:4,: .$ rkk: ;1 1t!:1. t$'': r1 - ' . . La '@i ï>:::;.. qtI. . . . iï IL mr. e ... . sz> ..4 . ..'' %q rt ' !' <$u ltWhilëo fklcfi. :Irxtj:....ycm,. r,.r;kI1..l1.z g.%.. .,r; t11L.'' ..'s:>%=am- =:z.. KOrZNgIN'Y. >u . . .=x :uj.w. s... . . .. zqjr.-= saaAxykqqA - . .... =.rAzN Jl:. ;tgj1k::9.. p . Nr m;..4 fg t,. s..Jn.. jlsçt 'j7'j jyti lljdlh 'j1)'. ;:'$;.1ji7l;Z. E?.7' ''J1 yn 4''qV!.'.S'I'' rcâ. >.!' t1>'IU' B..' =. -. 1R . !ip tw k' y J < . ;.r%. ?' . . .ç6qj.. a .A .. : <e c. g. .. . , .4= . , ... so aonx Ay - ; uk . . jy . i'.' -.. /,J.2'1ê. 2+ri)$:, qj. q.! . ,... .'. x . : I'y .> y. . . >-. . . . 5 . u , ,q. y... ! 5 .u .% . = - . = . =*v . . . . , # o > 1 .. . .. . =. ?..-. . .y . Njz:e . . upyi. ' u'. )f$g l '$ = x 4 'f' I '.z '11: w 4ç.' ' rN=-r zp . ..b .' lzu= ' et ' = J' f 1 ' > .'i.'p '' '.n. i' '= .J ' . 5 'n.Jr - . . Lr)jp.. ! ya . cAI :;..J' hq #f.; xJ. ! 'f 44. t .' ! -9) ' J ppl, Vxo'llè y .sî . . ' . Jèx iiTJ'-%#lqP. lài#ixhksfiFf ià;è kcypy.. élù F;l@ ! EJ / etRz 1) jg .;!t< CL ykq' d 1 4j,, . lj .'; y. p: .hqi.y'. . ïl ... . l .. i . ' . F ....zr.éyyk =yu (jL.ikk;;.r:r@Jt%kj..= .& 1 j.1 )u4 . v . . '< Ly<.. . . .ç J.I %' .'.!rJja . r: 8 . 1.4. t .(. ,: t. ,:.. . ji s > . . = v . ./.,., (q:gf.=xeT>'.. ss jjykyul.() xz'.qu qys-g..r. . y,.:4:;r.ry. :-.> q? :L;! C k y.j r7?< ;.. t . . ,! ? . $.I u. r;i ;J ,1% .:. .. . [email protected]. .:(. .=c j .t rf kslnusyz-::v jë(.=tl.- 'E.é!. g Z:A às.ztx' - / pc)g ù'è. hk l)hàki. .. ' ' ' ' 5 . .' . e . 'J. iïk .1 . : Ii! = ft D = = d..'w!w.;' i;.'! 4 .4î'i1'l . ' ''pf ga:. J ' #! .. '' -1 ?# 'L : 1. .: = .f1..J. u. :.àt;'w I 24/. t) œM.' u. !q1 ME/urEq: '(.:(( +4x.J @ :x j f -= '= qj:i =. ùsluss. k, al:wl:qçl jj2. aljyjija . . . ' sê.W ;. .1r1. Ijli' fjj p ,1.'.' .tE w 1':: J5à':. 7i@A(%'l'.î&;..2 PJ1 = %''-';f) : ' ;'3 .''. i ' '' . ' AL . i'f a' i n. .J =n . . . >:ï 't. = ; y = u.ye k q ) . == - . é:.- !( :. z ë ; ..'' : l . c . . y .. n!I B- c ) 2: .1 y j k !:' uv r ' . : .. k =!:kr . l ; .. < ; .7 u. 5 ( . f :.. .... k: . RITFIT K;, = zR . !/jj1s > -. . - -skJ.. -= v. . L èz . . szl.. . a!+$;q ! ç . ; ; : .'. . ,:'! : 4 ,y .c 'ç : . '' v' 'C ' ' ',' ': o P: :'' . L. .1a ..42 ..u.. it; . y.x jnav. zjax.. . v J$ , .ar :; wi. tx û.5.. . 9$# .>.:uk. eArjqatrv-''q esl-rz-v.z w ... . i-c: u . = .a . <. i%.. . . 4.k.. - '. , ' ! j ; - j' ' ( n . . j1 ' 'a a! v . :7 : . ' > : . ' m ', @ .z L: . ... ..J r x!. ' : i . . xgq à &t . ! î . l P'ï . q . î 5>. ' 5 ( 4. ?J' r' e# ' ' 1 . vi ' ' h k J - uzxr . n ' . L $ . I ' ' . . $ ' ! 9 ' t ' ' ' ' 1 R . xq Tg i = u.w . - .a.. .=-ajjr sg . ..: x r .. . @z s .râ u !k . g. ) N . . (J , p;. pztjkë j ?j'.: $ r çg..l Jjjj' ' i ' p . .. J :nb: ( g j#Kç .. ;, .,:!>g#N;: 2 I .u .,!v@.' y( :&((..r w E . .6:: ez = . 4 b : , ..,. , '.- q ) w 1 ...uJ , . ; ' ! . v. w-;' nvjàasu :.s<.; ...é.4 6 <15!: .- R è-1 ea,: 4!'RK.JF:@ qF.:':3s'i!. ..e:e' L=''.( 1 12 J'?:'' )' 'é:.< 'ti. C a 6 kt (J Jli; k .r.-u. 11 . . !1Al . 4 c. j q. Trjh. n:g.E, a.z:'.'# ' :'. 'L Ji , . ' '= ' :. ' ' '' 'g % .. . L'. Lï'. 1. . , . .. p' ' ' . . '

Figure: Process ctzrve (combined scouring and bleaching of wool - rapid bleach)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath at room temperature with wetting agent, detergent, peroxide

stabilizer, ammonia or sodium tripolyphosphate.

2. Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1 - zc/minute. Add hydrogenperoxide at around 50C.

3. After reaching the temperature to 80 - 85C hold the bath for 15 -20 minutes.


5. Rinse twice with hot (60C) and cold water successively.6. If necessary treat with peroxide killing agent.

7.3 W hitening of woolFor producing pure white adicles it is recommended to brighten wool in areductive bleaching solution. To achieve an adequate basic white, wool isbleached with hydrogen peroxide earlier.

Typical reclpe for brightening in reductive bleaching Iiquor -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/IReducing agènt = 2.0 - 4.0 g/lBrightener = 1.0 - 3.0 F/oTemperature = 60 - 650CTime = 15 - 30 minPH = 8.5 + 0.5M : L = 1 : 1 0

Flture: Process tl&N/ (whitening of wool in reductive bleaching)

Procedure -


reducing agent, and brightener.

Raise the temperature to 60 - 65C slowly.

3. Hold the bath at 60 - 65 C and circulate for 15 - 30 minutes.

4. Drop the bath and rinse with warm and cold water.

7.4. Dyeing of wool

W ool is Iittle bit sensitive to alkali, shows moderate stability up to PH 10 but acid

stability is much better, shows good stability up to pH 2. Its isoelectric point is PH4.5 - 4.8, i.e. at this pH it is comparatively safer. For successful wool dyeing thefollowing parameter should be considered:

- Uniform pretreatment

Levelness of dyeing

Protection of wool

W et and Iight fastness propedies

Anti-setting

Rot - Tip padition

Spinnability

Non yellowing effect in dyed goods

7.5 Dyeing of wool with acid dyes

Acid dyes contain acidic groups, usually - SOaH, in their structure. These acid

groups react with basic groups (e.g. free amino, - NH2) present in protein suchas wool, silk and synthetic polyamide fibers forming organic salt (by salt Iinkage).W ool shows amphoteric properties in solution, thus it can absorb either acid or

basic substances and can be either electrically positive or negative depending

. w. m .w...: =' 1w..= .+M . c-T'1L- . :'u c>l#lsïgz. pAbv.. .'-7J

on PH range. The PH range of about 4.7 to 7.2 is the isoelectric region for wool.

In that region it contains both positive and negative charge, called Zwitterionic

form. W hen the pl-l in bath is above the isoelectric point, the amino group

becomes neutral, and wool has a net negative charge. On the other hand when

the pl-l is below the isoelectric point, the carboxylic group of wool fiber is

protonated, and wool has a net positive charge. Since acid dyes contain

negatively charged sulfonate groups, the positively charged amino group is the

main dye site for interaction of acid dyes below isoelectric region.

Typical reclpe -Wetting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l


W ool protecting agent = 2.0 - 4.0 g/I

Dyes = X%


Acetic /sulfuric acid = 1 - 4 g/I (to maintain pH 4.5 - 5.5)Temperature = 90 - 100C

Time = 30 - 50 mins

M :L = 1 : 1 0

Dye solution preparation -First, make paste by adding water with dyes; then add hot water and stir it to


Figuœ: Process ctzlve (dyeing of wool with acid dyes)

Procedure -

1. Prepare the dyebath with substrate at 40 - 50*C temperature.

2. Add Ieveling agent, acetic acid, salt and other auxiliaries, and maintain the

PH 4.5 - 5.5.

3. Run the bath for 10 - 20 minutes and add dye solution at PH 4.5 - 5.5.

Raise the temperature to 90 - 100C over 20 - 30 minutes @ 1 - zc/minute.

Run the dyebath for 30 - 50 minutes for dyeing.

4.

5.

6. Cool down the bath temperature to 60 - 70C @ 2 - 3C/ minute.7. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aftedreatment process.

Anelreatment pp cess -


improving colodastness, and treat with a suitable fixing agent.

7.6 Dyeing of wool with basic dyes

Typical recipe -




Dyes = X%


Glacial acetic acid

Temperature

Time

M:L

= 1 - 3 g/I (to maintain PH 4 - 5)= 90 - 100C

= 30 - 50 mins

= 1 : 1 0


First, make paste by adding water with dyes', then add hot water and stir it to


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Figure.. Process ctzrle (dyeing of wool with basic dyes)

Procedure -

1. Take dyes solution into the bath with salt, acid and other auxiliaries at 40 - 50C.


3. Raise the temperature to 90 - 100C obler 25 - 30 minutes @ l.s-3c/minute.4. Run the dyebath for 30 - 50 minutes for complete dyeing.


Carry on the aftedreatment process.6.



improving colorfastness. Here it is advisable to treat the dyed goods with a

suitable sxing agent to improve the colorfastness.

7.7 Dyeing of wool with chrome dyes

(Aner-chrome method)

Typical reclye -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Dyes = X0é


Acetic acid (859/0) = 1 - 3 g/IFormic acid (850A)Temperature

Time

Potassium bi-chromate

M : L

= Y% (generally, 0. 5- 2.0%)= 1 : 1 0

= 1 - 3 g/j

= 90 - 100C

= 30 - 50 mins


First, make paste by adding water with dyes; then add hot water and stir it to


Ppcedure -

1. Take the dye solution into the bath with salt, acid and other auxiliaries at 40 -

50C.


3. Raise the temperature to 90 - 100C over 20 - 30 minutes @ 1 - 3c/minute.4. Run the dyebath for 30 - 50 minutes at the same temperature.

5. Drop the bath temperature to 70 - 80C over 10 - 20 minute @ 13c/minute.

6. Add potassium bi-chromate; usually the necessary amount of bi-chromate is

around 50% of dyes amount.

7. Run the bath for 15 - 30 minutes again.


9. Carl on the aAedreatment process.

Anertreatment pmcess -



7.8 Dyeing of wool with metale omplex dyes


Dyes

Glauber salt

Sulfuric acid (conc.)Temperature

Time

M:L

Dyë solution preparation -

First, make paste by adding water with dves; then add hot water and stir it to


= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= x%

= 10 - 20 g/l

= 8 - 12 g/I

= 90 - 100C

= 30 - 50 mins

= 1 : 1 0

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Figure: Process ctzlve (dyeing of wool with metal-complex dyes)

Procedure -1. First, prepare the dye solution and take it into the bath with salt, acid and

other auxiliaries at 40 - 50C.2. Run the bath with substrate for 10 -15 minutes at the same temperature.

3. Raile the temperature to 90 - 100C over 20 - 30 minutes @ 1 - 3c/minute.4. Run the dyebath for 30 - 50 minutes for complete dyeing.5. Cool down and drop the dyebath.6. Carry on the aftertreatment process.

Aftertreatment process -The dyed goods need successive hot and cold wash to remove unfixed dyes forimproving colorfastness.

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silk goods

8.1 Degumm ing/ scouring of silk

A major undesirable constituent part of silk is 'silk gum' or 'sericin' about 25% oftotal mass. Besides this it has some other natural impurities that can hinder the

treatment of this fiber. Therefore, it needs to remove these impurities before

bleaching and coloration. The process evolved to remove these impurities is

called 'degumming' or 'scouring' of silk.

A) Typical recipe -W etting agent = 0.5 -1.0 g/l



Natural soap = 15.0 - 30.0 gm/l

TSP/Soda ash = 1 .0 - 3.0 gm/l

Detergent = 1.0 - 3.0 gm/l (not mandatory if use soap)Temperature = 90 - 95 0c

Time = 90 - 120 min

PH

M :L

= g . 5 - 1 0 . 5

= 1 : 1 0

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' Q* V 'ê V'L&' ' R' ! ' ' ' ' 'v..r<sl..JqNu;:. s: ;= XL' c .' . i

Figure: Process cJrve (degumming of silk)

Procedure -

Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add soap and other

necessary auxiliaries.

If necessary add trisodium phosphate (TSP) or soda ash to maintain desiredpl-l 9 - 10.

3. Raise the temperature to 95C and run for 2 hours for optimum removal of

sericin gum.

4. Cool down to 70C and then drop the bath.

5. W ash it with warm and cold water successively.

B) Enzymatic degumming -In this method first need to make a rnixture with the following recipe:

Selected enzyme = 20 pads

Hydroze = 40 parts

Sodium thiosulfate = 40 narts

Total = 100 parts

Then prepare the degumming bath solution with the following recipe:

Enzyme mixture = 30 ml/l (from above mentioned mixture)Acetic acid = as required to maintain pH, 6 - 6.5

Temperature = 40 @C

Time = 2 hrs

M : L = 1 : 1 0

After that treat the silk with 4 - 6 g/l natural soap solution at 70OC fpr 30 minutes.

Then wash it with warm and cold water.

8.2 Bleaching of silkSilk can be bleached with sulfur dioxide (SO2) or hydrogen peroxide (H2Oz). Insulfur dioxide (SOa) method, degummed silk is exposed (4 - 8 times) with sulfurdioxide (SO2) smoke in a special close vessel. This process is called 'stoving'.And then treat this silk with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to remove excess sulfur

dioxide (SOa). The second method of silk bleaching is hydrogen peroxidebleaching though the silk fiber is sensitive to bleaching agents. Thus it needs

special care to bleach silk goods with any bleaching agents.

. .. .. . ...;j. jgy.. .. .. ... ... q:hL,...azâ.gjur jjg . ..1qjjjj': 2111111). ...î L' ' .'. '.......jj.' . ..'..:,'z'.... zif'sjqjl. V : . . . - f ' *. . c Jlt & w. ;j:j..pJi%'. . . : eI ;:y-.é

Typical rec/ye of silk bleaching with H202 -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I


Stabilizer (Na-silicate) = 1.0 - 2.0 gm/lAmmoniafrsp = 5.0 - 10.0 gm/l

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) = 1.0 - 3.0 mI/ITemperature = 70 - 80 CTime = 2 - 4 hrs

pl-l = 9 - 10

M : L = 1 : 1 0

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. . . . . . . c . ,. ; . i. i ''t t , :. . . ... ..... t . . o .j.I,.a..:y.,.t, x.j;a r jy0. !!! j as. - - , , . . . . . . tvawitj .' ..).. . . 9 'j.. . , : ! .1 . S,. . .. wortt. . ., . s u.w = . .,,s,... - . . , - . . . ! . ,. .-.x>. mto ) o. . ys .,..vrk I h.. w.: .1., .ry; ..w. r .'.!.i,%.aq#.M*.kr.à,I.'s>'x'. e ,2 . . ,poo. p.k.,.:iL'k v . .w' ' XFb - p .s u ... : . -. . . . . ., .: = . . . ..' - . . . ..mif;hk1. j . l.a y j ; - q.. a u ..x8iy. $ éI'.; ' ? .it ,tt q'i u wz.lr' $,1,. x .' saa

. . . . L . = :' . K . . .. .. u. ')u , xjup.w . nlylzjlia..,lkj4r.q' - . ' . ébzij VJ - . ' .mwu.' k '. ' .. n.u=rx:j(4!pzN=.:' . ' ; 'tzy ='/j; .q c g% psAty js.r'. w . . . =.. . u tx..... . . . ' :. . .. :,.!.s i qlkw.zvy xjjyw u. j' =. uj..4j# g j,4 jy jjy j jjyjrymdEzëj j .r1> y;glscl. . . ..:; -e. . . .. . . .. . . . jks ! j . q . rryj .y .,.h;a! 1 jg4a..,<j! :46 j. ) pjz. ej y>% ..b . -... c . . .. :a,...: . . . . $.444: . t .. . . u ,jra, ;j4. rj4r. . .j q . lkcsl yp. jâj :;jtju.m4 ::2 jkï.. . tn, . -Arue. a e !. . . . i!! ->. . ..ii . <( a u :jg. à si L.. jç< . . 41e. j! xflptio ..).rx . ''' . . ct' r. . ... . .. '. . . . . ,..i= .'x T/J, ' tw rp sq4Ath,- 11 2i')l'1''' I ) k1J. ' t lrg 1 zjl #!? :h4. 1. . , wpq vrvw

Figure: Process ctllve (bleachfng of sflk with hydrogen peroxide)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent,seqtlestering agent, detergent, stabilizer and other necessary auxiliaries.

2. Add ammonia (If necessary add soda ash) to maintain desired pH 9 - 10.3. Raise the temperature to 75 - 80C @ 1 - zc/minute and add hydrogen

peroxide around 50C.4. Run the bath for at Ieast 2 hours to achieve optimum removal of sericin

gum.5. Cool down to 70C and then drop the bath.6. And then wash with hot and cold water successively to remove residual

H202 and alkalis.7. If necessary treat with peroxide killing agent to remove residual peroxide.

8.3 W hitening of silk

(To get the silk white to whiter a suitable optical brightener can be used in

bleaching process, Ref.8.2)

8,4 Dyeing of silk with acid dyes

Silk is sensitive to both acid and alkalis, but it is more stable at acid solution

especially in organic acid solution. Thus, silk dyeing is carried out in acidic bath.

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Levelling agentDyes

Salt

Acetic acid

Temperature

Time

M '.L

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l= 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

= XnA

= 5 - 20 g/I

= 1 - 3 g/I (to maintain PH 4.5 - 5.5)= 90 - 95C

= 40 - 60 mins

= 1 : 10 - 1 :20-tv.. . :-.., llk.r .-'11 .1!11 *11- '' '-' --r!

yttg. ,r


First, make paste by adding water with dyes; then add hot water and stir it to


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. .. ; $1 T A )zs .. . . . .. . 41.. z.. . ù Ay.eJ .

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T' I . .='

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'

j . l k . cjj ' V

'

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. . . . . . . ju- kja +..jyw !: : . . . . .. xjjr .. .Je = w. . z . . . e . . 8.. i Yg g*j. . . =é o.. xujygg!. .. . ... -= Ij .:

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Figure: Process ctlrve (dyeing of silk with acid dyes)

Procedure -1. Prepare the dyebath with substrate at 40 - 50@C temperature.

2. Add Ieveling agent, acetic acid, salt and other auxiliaries, and maintain the

PH 4.5 - 5.5.3. Run the bath for 10 - 20 minutes and add dye solution at pH 4.5 - 5.5.

4. Raise the temperature to 90 - 100C over 20 - 30 minutes @ 1 - zc/minute.5. Run the dyebath for 45- 60 minutes for dyeing.

6. Cool down the bath temperature to 60 - 70C @ 2 - 3C/ minute.7. Drop the dyebath and carl on the aqertreatment process.

Anedreatment pmcess -The dyed goods need successive hot and cpld wash to remove unsxed dyes and

to improve colorfastness, and if necessary treat with a suitable fixing agent.

8.5 Dyelng o sllk with basic dyes

(Ref. 7.6)

8.6 Dyeing of silk with reactive dyes

Typical recipe -

W etting agent ï 0.2 - 1.0 g/l

Lubricant = 2.0 - 3.0 g/l

Dyes = X%


Sodium bicarbonate =Q.0 - 5.0 g/l


Time = 60 - 90 mins

M:L = 1 : 20

. jh3:1ux.F= '7âC=k ::4..1.8 # 'r 'f . . .%

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Figure: Process culve (dyeing of silk with reactive dyes)

Procedure -

1. Prepare the dyebath with substrate at 20 - 30C.

2. Add dye solution and other bath auxiliaries and run for 20 minutes.

3. Add (dosing) salt and raise the temperature to 60 - 70 C @ lc/minute4. Run the bath for 10 -15 minutes and add sodium bicarbonate.


6. Cool down the bath temperature to 40C @ 1C/ minute.7. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aftedreatment process.

Anertreatment -

1. Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively.

2. Treat with -


Lubricant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Sodium bicarbonate = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

At 70 - 80 C for 30 minutes.

3. Rinse again to clean aII the unexpected chemicals.

8.7 Dyeing of *ilk with metal-complex dyes

Typical recipe -

W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I


W es = X%Glauber salt = 10 - 20 g/l

Sulfuric acid (conc.) = 8 - 12 g/lTemperature = 90 - 100C

Time = 30 - 50 mins

M : L = 1 : 1 0

Dye solution preparation -First, make paste by adding water with dyes; then add hot water and stir it to


Procedure -

1. First, prepare the dye solution and take it into the bath with salt, acid andother auxiliaries at 40 - 50C.


3. Raise the temperature to 90 - 100C over 20 - 30 minutes @ 1 - 3c/minute.4. Run the dyebath for 30 - 50 minutes for complete dyeing.5. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aAertreatment process.

Anertreatment process -The dyed goods need successive hot and cold wash to remove unfixed dyes forimproving colorfastness.

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. t F .11 IE


viscose rayon goods

9.1 Scourlng of viscose

Man-made fibers do not contain impurities as much as natural fibers. They are

mainly contaminated with oils, wax during spinning and weaving or knitting, as

well as adventitious dirt. Comparatively mild detergent action suffices to rinse out

these imptlrities. Among man-made fibers regenerated sbers need more care

for scouring and bleaching.

Typical recipe -



Sequestering agent = 1.0 -3.0 g/l


Soda ash = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Temperature = 70 - 80 QC*

Time = 20 - 40 min

pH = 10 k 0.5

M :L = 1 : 1 0

Procedure -


sequestering agent and detergent.

2. Add alkalis and raise the temperature to 70 - 80C @ 2 - 3c/minute.3. Run the bath for 20 - 40 minutes.

Cool down the bath temperature to 50 - 60C and drop.

Rinse twice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.4.

5..:!;F.'''!j)1111;.:

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.. . wxa '. . . . 'x . >>

9.2 Bleaching of viscose

Usually, regenerated cellulosic fibres do not contain unwanted coloring efect like

other nattlral cellulose fibers. Thus, the bleaching process is not alwaysmandatoly before dyeing of viscose fiber. It shows more sensitivity to bleaching

agent Iike hydrogen peroxide than cotton fiber.Typical recipe -

W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/IDetergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/lSequestering agent = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lPeroxide stabilizer = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lCaustic soda = 0.1 - 0.5 g/I (if necessary)Soda ash = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Hydrogen peroxide (50n/o) = 2.0 - 4.0 g/lTemperature = 60 - 70 *C

Time = 45- 60 min

PH = 9.5 + 0.5

M:L = 1:10

. .. =. .. yt.c. c . tuyr '. ' & .. .-. . . n . .j c k.u aak lgqpxu

Procedure -Set the bath with substrate at room temperattlre with wetting agent,

sequestering agent, detergent and peroxide stabilizer (e.g. Na-silicate).2. Add alkalis and hydrogen peroxide at around 50C temperature.

3. Raise the temperature to 60 - 70C @ 1 - zc/minute.4. Run the bath for 45 - 60 minuteà.

5. Cool down the bath temperature to 50C and drop.

Rinse twice with hot (around 50C) and cold water.

. . $ . = . . . , . p#' . . v l . ., . . . - . . . mxrj t: -! . .%. zg txv. x . czr . IE x a 4. - . .. . a . e . = '.% < H; ' à' *

. .. z. nv> .Ar* .

9.3 W hitening of viscose

Fo achieve whiter effed, a suitable optical brightener can be used in bleachingprocess, Ref. 9.2)

9.4 Dyeing of viscose with direct dyes

Typical reclye -W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Levelling agent

Lubricant

Dyes

Glauber/common salt

Temperature

Time

PH

M:L

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1 .0 - 3.0 g/l

=X%

= Y g/l or more (based on dye concentration and

dye type or vender recommendation)= 95 k 5 OC

= 30 - 50 min

= neutral to alkaline

= 1 : 5 - 1 : 1 0

. . .....= .=. =. . . - zj ..a . . .. . . '

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Figure: Process ctllve (dyefng of Wscose with direct dyes)

Procedure -

1. First, mix the dye with normal water and make dye-paste; then pour hot

water to dissolve the dye properly and ensure uniform bath concentration.

Set the dyebath with substrate and add bath auxiliaries, salt (20% of total)and soda ash at 40 - 50C and run for 10 minutes.

3. Add (dosing) dye and run for 10 minutes.4. Raise the temperature to 90C @ l.sc/minute.

. . . . -. . . J . c t.-J u. . . u = . ) . u 1- jyl ukxqh ' i'; .àp(v .. b!;C9 q5. ' 3. ' . k r ' c A. iï 76 bk.w 1 62': l à . $51 = = ' ' ' 'C'et. reat en' t '. :. ' kA. . . ; -.. ..N.. ,..,,..,..-.w,w, wz . . , w.

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5. Run the bath for 20 minutes and add (dosing) rest of salt.6. Run the bath for 60 - 90 minutes at the same temperature.

7. Cool down the bath to 70C @ l.sc/minute.8. Drop the bath and carry on the aqertreatment process.


In after treatment process a suitable fixing agent is used for improving color

fastness (wash, water, perspiration) properties; usually this process is done at 30- 400 C, sometimes at 600 C for 15 - 20 min or according to vender

recommendation. After that a cationic softener is added to the Iast rinsing bath

for improving handle propedies of fabrics', this process is done at 40 - 50 0 C for

15- 20 min.

For improvement of colo#astness (wet & Iight) the following Aftertreatmentprocess can be done -


Copper sulfate

Acetic acid

Temperature

Time

M:L

= 0.5 - 2.0%

= 0.5 - 2.0%

= 1 .0 - 5.0%

= 80C

= 30mins

= 1 .. 1 0


9.5 Dyeing of viscose with reactive dyes

Isimilar to cotton dyeing with reactive dyes, Ref. 4.10)


polyester (PET) goods

10.1 Scouring of PET

The basic treatment processes for 100% polyester (PET) filament yarn fabricsmay be carried out in the following sequences:

1 . Scouring --, heat-set -+ dyeing

2. Heat-set -+ scouring -+ dyeing

3. Scouring -+ dyeing -.+ heat-set

Although the necessity of scouring is not very important for polyester goods but

during preparation and fabric manufacturing some impurities or foreign dirt may

contaminate the materials. And these impurities need to remove before dyeing

process. Thus, a mild scouring process is done to remove these impurities.

Normally, the scouring process is done as follows -

Typical recipe -




Soda ash = 2.0 - 3.0 g/I

Caustic soda = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l (if necessal)Temperature = 80 - 90 C

Time = 15 - 30 mins

= o j. g. -- j . . j ()

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igure: Process ctlrve (scouring of polyester)

Procedure -1. Set bath with substrate and necessary auxiliaries (wetting agent,

sequestering agent, detergent) at room temperature.2. Raise the temperature to 50C, and add caustic soda & soda ash; then raise

the temperature to 85 - 90C.3. Run the bath for 15 - 30 minutes.4. Drop the bath and rinse twice (hot and cold).5. Treat (rinse) the goods with 1-2 g/l acetic acid (30%) to neutralize the alkalis.

10.2 Heat-setting of PET and other synthetic fabrics

Dimensional stability and crease-proof propedies are the big issue for the fabrics

made from synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, elastomers, and alsofor triacetates and partly for PAC fibers. The heat-setting process provides agood dimensional stability and crease-proof propedies in synthetic fibers fabric

and their blends. This process can be applied on grey fabrics (hardly applied), onscoured fabrics (frequently applied) and on dyed fabrics (hardly applied). ThePET goods are often acquire dirt and other stains during manufacturing

,

including after-waxing agents applied to sized warp yarns. Ioom stains and otherforms of soiling. If heat-set is done before removal of these impurities

,

subsequent cleaning of the goods will become dimcult and perhaps impossible.

Therefore, it is preterable to heat-set the goods aAer scouring. Usually stenter

machine is used for heat-set operation. Operating conditions (temperature andmoisture) are very important to achieve desirable heat-set restllt.

TreatmentMinim um temp. Minim um temp.Fib

re time (inoc @c

seconds)Acœlic (PAC) 160 180 - 200 15 - 40Elastomers 170 180 - 200 15 - 40Polyamide PA 6 160 180 15 - 40

Polyamide PA 6.6 170 210 15 - 40

Polyester (PE) 170 210 15 - 50Triacetate 160 180 15 - 40For blended fabrics of these sbers with cotton or other sbers

, then the recommended heat-settemperature for that fabric will be 10 - 30*C Iower than the previously mentioned temperature

.

10.3 Decortication of polyester fabric

Decodication is a chemical treatment process, which provides a silky and

smooth surface appearance of polyester fabrics. It can be done in open-width or

in rope form (batch process). It is carried out as the following conditions -

NaOH 36@ Be' = 30 - 50 g/I


Time = 20 - 40 min

M :L = 1 : 10

Then wash and neutralize the fabric.

10.4 Bleaching of PET

It is not impodant to bleach polyester fiber before coloration process. The natural

white of PET fibers is usually satisfactory for most purposes, and bleaching is

unnecessary. But when the fabrics are to be finished white or a special color the

goods need 'light bleach' with sodium chlorite or peroxide.

Typical recipe -


Sodium chlorite (8004) = 2.0 - 4.0 g/IAcetic acid = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Buffering salt = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

PH = 3- 4


M '.L = 1 : 10

Procedure -

(As usuall

10.5 Com bined scouring and bleaching of PETTypical recipe -



Peroxide stabilizer = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Caustic soda (36@Be) = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ISoda ash = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

H202 (350/0) = 2.0 - 6.0 g/lTemperature = 90 - 100 OC

Time = 30 - 60 min

PH = 10.5 :t 0.5

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Figure.. Process ctzlve (combined scouring and bleaching of PED

Procedure -

Set the bath with snbstrate and necessal auxiliaries (wetting agent,

sequestering agvnt, detergent) at room temperature.2. Raise the temperature to 50C, and add peroxide stabilizer and caustic soda

& soda ash; then run for 10 - 15 minutes.

3. Add (dosing) hydrogen peroxide into the bath and run for 10 minute.4. Raise the bath temperature to 90 - 100C.


6. Drop the bath and rinse twice (hot and cold).7. Treat with acetic acid (using peroxide killer is recommended) for

neutralization.

10.6 W hitening of PET

Most fluorescent brightening agents are suitable for PET fibers and that can

apply with sodium chlorite bleach Iiquor. So, the one-stage chemical and optical

bleach is possible. An excellent white can be achieved by treating the heat-

setted fabrics with acidified sodium chlorite, followed by the application of a

suorescent brightening agent at high temperature.

Typical recipe -


Detergent

Buffering salt

Acetic acid

Sodium chlorite (80t%)Fluorescent brightener

Temperature

Time

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 2.0 g/I

= 3.0 - 6.0 g/I

= X%

= 120 - 1300 C

= 15 - 20 min

Figure: Process ctzrve (whitening of PET)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate and necessaw auxiliaries (wetting aqent,

detergent, buffering salt, acetic acid) at 40 - 50C and pH Ievel of 3 - 4.

Add sodium chlorite and start to raise the temperature.

: . ' t' Lf 4 T' * V'Y ' ') ' ' . . .- ;)7 ? '.; ' - ' '

3. Raise the temperature up to 120 - 130C @ 2 - 3c/minute.4. Run the bath for 15 - 20 minutes.5. Cool down the bath to 70C and drop.

6. Rinse twice (hot and cold).

10.7 Dyeing of PET with disperse dyes in carrier m ethodDisperse dyes are nonionic in nature, almost insoluble and stay as finely dividedaqueous dispersed form in water. lt can be hydrolyzed in high temperatureespecially under alkaline conditions. Therefore, dyeing with disperse dyes isvidually always done using slightly acidic conditions. It is a unique dyestuff fordyeing of polyester, nylpn, and cellulose acetate fibers. These colorants haveinherent affinity to the fiber and are simply mechanically trapped in the fiberstructure. During dyeing of a hydrophobic fiber contends that the fiber absorbsdye molecule, which are dissolved in the dyebath. The addition of dispersing

agent increases the dye solubility and accelerates the dye diffusion into theswelled fiber structure. The dye diffusion can be obtained either using a suitablecarriet' or providing high temperature and pressure. After migration of dyes into

the fiber, the bath temperature needs to reduce slowly, then the swelled fiberbecomes solid and the migrated dye molecules are trapped into the sber

structure.

The rapid exhaustion of dyes in synthetic sbers depends on the 'dyeing transitiontemperature' of that sber. The suitable dyeing temperatures for disperse dyes

are given below for different synthetic fibers:

Fiber Standard dyeing temperature (@C)Acrylics 95 - 1 10

Cellulose acetate 85 - 90

Cellulose triacetate 1 15

Nylon 80 - 120

Polyester 100 - 140

Using carrier can decrease Tdyeing transition temperature' and thus increase the

dyeing rate at Iower temperature but it has a greatest disadvantage of allowing

potential Ioad in air pollution.

Typical PET dyeing Y c/pe in caY er method -

Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l



Dyes = Xo/o

Acetic acid (50%)Carrier

Temperature

Time

M :L

= 0.5 - 2 g/l (to maintain pH = 4 - 5)= 2 - 5 %

= 90 - 100 C

= 50 - 120 mins

= 1 : 1 0


Disperse dyes are water insoluble, thus need to make a dispersible (padiallysoluble) solution by stirring with warm (aroqnd 45C) water. If necessary adddispersing agent and stir rapidly for uniform mixing of dyes.

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Figurw Pmcess ctzlve (dyeing of polyester fabdc with disperse dyes in carr/er

method)

Pm ced&re -

Set the dyebath with substrate at 50@C temperature and add dispersing

agent, acetic acid, carrier and other auxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 5 -

10 minutes.

Add (dosing) dye solution and raise the temperature to 90 - 1000C @ 1 - 20C/min

u . . . ... .. . - . . .jjs . .. . . s. . . u.,.,,svt.y,. . jj,s qyu:y qys;yj,y y . y! a . yJ(; ; .). x't-v4vgriéé'ir é;kj1;; ; yé' ) y ))).n ...rE l ?. ;. '.'.s! , .... y)y. ( ). . . y . x. .' E ''

C, ' ( y((j;(j(1S;(g.yyjyjjgjjjjj,' u:.'..:ô.y.(ay:y).. 'jJs''y . . .j. . .u .)C rjè . kl. . . . .. . .. ..

. . z .

.'

. .-- . . )y--l ..-l-a+-. ,.-.;jx;...c$r, 9,...-1 t.-;t(!:'is- . . .,. -. . -. .

3. Run the bath for one to two hours at the same temperature.

4. Lower down (cooling) the bath temperature to 70 - 800 C over 10 - 15minutes.

5. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aqertreatment process.

Anretreatment pm cess -

1 . Rinse twice with hot and cold water.

2. Treat the fabric (for deep shade only) with -Caustic soda (36@Be) = 2 - 6 mI/ISodium hydrosulphite (Hydroze) = 1 - 3 g/lat 70 - 80 C for 10 - 15 minutes. The use amount of caustic and hydroze

may be higher for deep shade. This process is called 'reduction clearing'.

3. Rinse twice with hot and cold water, and then

4. Neutralize with acetic acid.

10.8 Dyeing of PET with disperse dyes in high temp. (HT) & high pressure(HP) method

Typical recipe -

Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Sequestering agent

Levelling agent

Dyes

Acetic acid (500A)Temperature

Time

M:L

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= X%

= 0.5 - 2 g/1 (to maintain PH = 4 - 5)= 125 - 135* C

= 30 - 60 mins

= j .. 1 o


Disperse dyes are water insoluble, thus need to make a dispersible (padially

soluble) solution by stirring with warm water. lf necessary add dispersing agentwith it and stir rapidly.

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'

.ue.bu... g xet .4 f .>* .< . . .. ., r - - .:,.. = .. . s. ... . . . . y e! ! , . . . .. ..y x. ..s ,

Figure: Process cfprve (dyeing of polyester fabric with disperse dyes in HTHP

method)

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 500 C temperature and add dispersing

agent, acetic acid, and other auxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 5 - 10minutes.

Add (dosing) dye solution and raise the temperature to 70 - 80OC @ 2 - 30C/min.

3. Raise the temperature from 70 - 80 C to 130 - 1350 C @ 1 - 1.5* C/min.4. Run the bath for 30 - 60 minutes at the same temperature.

5. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 - 800 C over 15 - 30 minutes.6. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aftertreatment process.

Anretreatment process -

1 . Rinse twice with hot and cold water,

2. Treat the fabric (for deep shade only) with -Caustic soda (36@Be) = 2 - 6 mI/ISodium hydrosulphite (Hydroze) = 1 - 3 g/lat 70 - 80 C for 10 - 15 minutes. The use amount of caustic and hydroze

may be higher for deep shade. This process is called 'reduction clearing'.3. Rinse twice with hot and cold w'ater, and then4. Neutralize with acetic acid.

10.9 Dyeing of cationic dyeable polyester with basic dyesCompared with acrylics, the basic dyes diffuse Iess rapidly into cationic dyeable

polyester and the chance unlevelness is not as high even in the presence of

carrier. But if carrier is used, it must be removed completely if Iightfastness is not

to be impaired.

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent= 0.1 - 0.5 g/l

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Levelling agent

Acetic acid (80%)

Sodium acetateCarrier

W esTemperatureTime

PHM:L

Figu-: Process ct/zve (dyelhg of polyester with basic dyes)

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l (arr.nrding to venderrecommendation)

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l= 1 .0 - 3.0 g/I (if necessal)= X%= 90 - 100* C= 45- 90 min

= 4.0 - 5.0= 1 .. 1 0

Proceduœ -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 40 - 500C temperature and add wetting

agent, sequestering agent, buffer (acetic acid &sodium acetate), and salt,then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes

.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution and raise the temperature to 800C @ 1 .0 - 2.00C/min.

3. Raise the temperature from 80OC to 95 - 1000 C @ 0.5 - 1.00 C/min. In thisstage dyeing rate is high - it has a big possibility to produce unlevel dyeing

.

So, the rate of increasing temperature should be very slow.


5. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 - 800 C over 15 - 20 minutes.

6. Lower down the bath temperature from 70 - 800 C to 40 - 500 C over 10 -15 minutes. '

Drop the dyebath and carry on the aftertreatment process.

Anertreatment process -

1. Rinse twice with warm and cold water.

2. Treat with:

Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IAlkalis = 1.0 - 3.0 g/ITemperature = ca. 50CTime = 10 - 15 mins

M '. L = 1 : 1 0

Rinse again with acetic acid for neutralization.

4. Rinse again

5. SoAening (if needed).


polyam ide goods

11.1 Scouring of polyamide (nylon 6.6)During manufacturing or fabric production the polyamides m:y contaminate with

many types of dirt and soil - some types of soil, how-ever, including graphite and

certain oils and greases may be difficult to remove, especially if the soiled nylon

is subjected to a heat-setting treatment before scouring. Thus, scouring is veryeffective before heat-setting but the heat-set process may impart a yellowing

effect in polyamides which should be removed in bleaching propess. Nylon

should be scoured with gentle agitation at a sensible temperature Ievel of around

60C. Although high temperatures can increase the effectiveness of scouring, and

cause padial setting of the goods but it may carry an unexpected wrinkles or

crease in goods which may be difficult to remove in subsequent next processes.

Therefore, the polyamides need gentle scouring with moderate temperature.

Typical scouring recipe -




Soda ash = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Temperature = 60 - 70 OC (temperature can be increased to boiland time to be reduced to 20 - 40 minutes)

Time = 40 - 60 min

PH = 9.5 + 0.5

M:L = 1 :10

4.4 A: ' ' 47=. .% = .t V 7 F!1j1 ?T1l x. =J' t; #'. 'J 4.1.6.)0' ' 1.-=' Z rx' ' YL sfx . -r< . ' . . . ' . . .. .

'u / ' ' . . .. . = .. '.a 41 *1j ' -A 'i .1! q 1.: % 1. ' 'ttpxàhalj: r; - . . . . . ) I . Y> r . .. .> .. rï .5c jrlrll :@ j .j: 1.@ : . .. . . . = . . ç. u . ,lc.Ja:l&N' K k' . ='. .-.f?#E' u sq. '!.% i . = ' . w.i . ' 3 . ' . . . . .. ' ' . . i - = . f lr1.' .='s'. *.:4 114; qj. . 'IL ëE' ir. R1. ''' ' .#àK '''w kk . . ' . . . ' ' . ' ' ' . =.' . à ' 1 e . ' : w . ' N''. ' 'x j, .y .> z lrc.. 2:4 .. . , - . . i. .< = /1 x /p . . . < . - . =(. . yj Kyy--r a . . . = . . . p . ,w . . ; .:.zq1 'f . . . . d .. . = .. . t = -< xd 4,r .r . . !. L > 1 j! . = . . . . . . . . . . w,. fjI4 f . ;vke sc . âd. mh . . '1.:t.... ) '. ;b'' :11!:. >Ci>Ci' J1p:',r!''Zl'$:I.. I ;jj. =z: j 63332*'. . (1 r'.tI;a, . .,.. *.,. LtIu. .. .. ' . '

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A i .. . . 50 . .. 6a w. k ' : uW- . .j vTu . . .&.' - . kr - v z@ . . . . er ..y. c . . . . . . .'IK T '' ' '= '' ' '' ' '% += . . œ z . . . u .

% f .4I ' . z!atiz ' ' 'jn . ... .tz::lijjj.r

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d

.

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'

.

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T. . : . .?. .yu . .szj. . .. .. . . .' ; #! : ' ' 'Ir. .i22. 1!., .411. , ; . .'>l & = ''

t . . . .k . .zttd 'f .2* = c . .!c. =a V . . ' .n..ca P Z: ' ' .

.m. ;. p ;, . :i fl . .' ' ' '2:1 ly'V.. I . = ' . 'r./ùLt:il!-: ë'f *''

' .4 g e p iu é . . . . . , . .- 4. ' ua . - w . ..- ' ..X ef. . . . . .u - %. . . # ' . .. .y'f. . . . . .. .. =..é .

.. . . . * q =

. .: ujjv y .. a1 E= ' '. J#= )'. . lf . ' L i '. ' :7 's Z.L iA ' ':7 :. a: H '

..y. . . k . . . . ,. . .. xp. . 1 . . . . xi . Jtss,$g. . s:.'q;l., . s . . . 1 . . . ,. .: . ,ê. '.. . . . :.. , . . , ., t 1,1.,.. .. . . . . . . . . r . F c=- . . j. .. ' . . . . y*i i#f ç '=

. ' ' - ' T..P/ aj x'r # VJ Y '.. ...hi:W=%= ' ' ' .. . x. , .. . ' ' . ' . . ' . '. ' m# . 5 -R. . ' = ' e > ./4.sg g.r/ 1 ' . ' .u YEQ..+2 a. 1

f # ' . . . < . . ''k ..15 ï/)l .4.. .. ..& . ' . ' .. . .

c :1 . .c tt (&' . .,+4 -'.. . gvii . .u . . . kl t .q. . 12 . ./tl g . ' ')1:<3 ..tr'.y .

.A ,J* ===+=: .

ë . J ss .y'.. .

.1.1. s . . . .u.q v.lc ,

. k. - L; . . . . . . .'N*' . '.. . . . yéx. m. G' . . = =' . ' . . ' ' J . . . . .

' ' ' . . . .. ..

'. ' , u . . .e'.. ..# 'i' .> K ,. IJ Irxp p 1 .. m = . . .u . . .g .a) =. . . . . +. uj 54 . . . . . > = 'kts J ' r '

Figuœ: Process cuNe (scouringof nylon 6.6)

Proceduœ -1. Set the bath

sequestering agent, and detergent.

2. Add alkalis.

3. Raise the temperature to 60 - 70C @ 1 - zc/minute.4. Run the bath for 40 - 60 minutes.

with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,

5. Cool down the bath temperature to 50 C and drop.


Note: for nylon 6, the treatment temperature should be Iess than nylon 6. 6.

11.2 Bleachlng of polyamide (nylon 6.6)Except the application of brightener to produce pure white goods, 100%

polyamide never be done bleaching practically. Bleaching may become

necessary when fabrics are stained and discolored during processing -

especially when the discoloration exists for scouring. Usually, 100 percent nylon

yarns and fabrics are bleached most effectively by means of the acid sodium

chlorite method. This method is useful as a bleach for maximum whiteness,

removal yarn tints, and whitening fabrics that have been yellowed by exposure to

air at high temperature. In that case fabrics should be treated in open-width form

to prevent wrinkles from being set by the hot bleaching treatmeqt.

11.3 Whitening of polyamide (nylon 6.6)A suitable brightener is applied in reducing bleaching Iiquor for producing white

goods.

Typical reclèe for brightening of polyamide ffôers in a œducing bleaching liquor-

Lubricant/ Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Reducing agent

Brightener

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

= 2.0 - 4.0 g/1

= 0.5- 2.0%

= 95 - 1000C

= 15 + 5 min

= 9 - 1 0

= 1 .. 1 c

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Figure: Process ctlrve (whitening of polyamide (nylon 6.6))

Procedure -

1. Set the bath at room temperature with substrate and add surfactants and

reducing agents.

2. Raise the temperature to 95 - 100C @ 2 - 3c/minute. Around 50 - 60Ctemperature add brightening agent into the bath.

Run the bath at 95 - 100C for 15 - 20 minutes.

4. Cool down the bath to 50 - 60 C and drop.

5. Carry on the next processes (e.g. soqening)

11.4 Dyeing of polyamide with disperse dyes

Comparatively with acid dyeings, disperse dyeings on nylon have relatively poor

fastness towards wet treatments, as well as ozone and nitrogen oxides.

Typical recipe -

Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l



Dyes = X%

Acetic acid (50%)Temperature

Time

M : L


Disperse dyes are water insoluble, thus need to make a dispersible (padiallysoluble) solution by stirring with warm water. lf necessary add dispersing agentwith it and stir rapidly.

= 0.5 - 2 g/l (to maintain PH = 4 - 5)= 80 - 100* C (max. 120@C as vender recommendation)= 30 - 60 mins

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Figure: Process ctlrve (dyting of po/yamfde (nylon6.6) with disperse dyes)

Procedure -

Set the dyebath with substrate at 500C temperature and add dispersing

agent, acetic acid, and other auxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 5 - 10

minutes.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution and raise the temperature to 80 - 1000C @ 1 - 30C/min. The maximum dyeing temperature depends on product type and

form. Some of higher energy polyester disperse dyes may be applied at

temperatures of as much as 110C on nylon 6 and 120C on nylon 66.


4. Lower down the bath temperature to 50 - 60O C @ 1 - 20 C/min.5. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aqedreatment process.

Aftretreatment process -1. Rinse twice with hot and cold water.

2. Treat the fabric (for deep shade only) with alkali solution at 70 - 80 C for 10- 15 minutes.



11.5 Dyeing of polyam ide with acid dyesPolyamide fibers are comparatively stronger than other common sbres. Themolecular chains in polyamide are Iinear and, unlike wool, hove no side chains

with dye sites. The dye sites in polyamide for acid dyes are amino groups, whichterminate the molecular chains. The sulfonic acid group on a dye molecule can

interact with one amino group present in the fiber. The dyeing mechanism ofnylon polyamide is identical to wool dyeing with acid dyes. Generally, the affinityo: an acid dye for nylon is greater than for wool. Thus, during dyeing of nylon

with acid dyes need special care to achieve uniform dyeing. Uniform dyeing canconfirm by PH control, slow uniform heating of the dyebath, and perfect use of

retarding agents just as is the case in dyeing of wool. lt has a good stability inthe phl range of 4 - 10 but strong acid such as sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid

may damage or weaken the fibers. Slnce polyamide is subject to chemicaldamage at low pH, dyeing below pH ot about 3.0 is not convenient. In drying,excessively high temperature about 170''C may impart a yellowing efect on the

fibers. After dyeing the goods need aftei'trealment to improve the colorfastness.

Typical reclèe -W etting agentAntifoaming agent

Levelling agent

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/i

= 0.1 - 0.5 ç '1

= 1 .0 - 2.0 t ,/I

Anticreasing agent

Ammonium sulfate

Or, Sodium acetateAcetic acid

Acid dyes

TemperatureTime

M :L

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Figure: Process ctlrve (dyefng of polyamide (nylon) with acfd dyes)

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 2.0 - 4.0 g/I; (for Iight shade, PH range 6 -7)= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I;

= Y g/I; (for medium to deep shade, PH 4.5 - 6)= X%

= 100 OC

= 30 - 50 min= 1 : 8 to 1 : 1 0

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 40C and add wetting agent, Ieveling agent,

and buffer (sodium acetate & acetic acid for maintaining pl-l 4.5 - 6.0).2. Run the bath for 10 minutes at same temperature.

3. Add dyes and run for 10 minutes again.

4. Raise the temperature to 95 - 100C over 30 - 45 minutes.

5. Run the bath at 95 - 100C for 30 - 50 minutes.

6. Cool down the bath to 60C @ 2 - 3 C/minute.7. Drop the bath and carry on aftretreatment process.

At etreatment -

1. Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively.

2. For improvement of polyamide dyeing with acid dyes can improve by

treating with a suitable sxing agent at 60 -70 C for 15 - 20 min at 4 - 5 pH

level (with acetic acid).3. Rinse again to clean unexpected chemicals any more.

11.6 Dyeing of polyamide with m etal-complex dyes

Typical reclèe -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l


Anticreasing agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Borax = Y g/l (for maintaining, PH 8 - 8.5)Metal complex dyes = X%

Temperature = 100 OC

Time = 30 - 50 min

M:L = 1: 8 to 1: 10

Procedtlre -

Set the dyebath with substrate at 40C.

2. Add wetting agent, Ieveling agent, and borax for maintaining PH 8-8.5.

Run the bath for 10 minutes at same temperature.

Add dyes and run for 10 minutes.

5. Raise the temperature to 70C @ l.sc/minute.6. Hold the bath for 20 minules at 70C.

7. Raise the temperature from 70C to 100C @ 1C/ minute.8. Run the bath for 30 - 50 minutes.

9. Cool down the bath to 60C @ zc/minute.10. Drop the bath and carry on aqretreatment process.

Anretœ atment -

Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively.

2. For improvement of polyamide dyeing with metal complex dyes can improve

by treating with a suitable fixing agent at 70 - 80 C for 15 - 20 min at 4 - 5

PH Ievel (with acetic acid).Rinse again to clean unexpected chemicals any more.


acl lic goods

12.1 Scouring of ace lic

Acrylic fibers are the polymer of polyvinyl acfylonitrile (PVA) composed withother related chem icals. The polymer unit of this fiber contains at Ieast 85% by

weight of acrylonitrile units (- CH2 - CHCN -). It was first produced by Du Pont in1950 under the trade name of Orlon.

Scouring is pot mandatory for 100% pure acrylic goods but in some specific

cases it needs a pre-scouring to remove the preparations (additives) or to becleaned the goods. It can be done in the bleaching step as well

. Thecontaminated/soiled goods are scoured in netltral to weakly alkaline condition at

maximum 60@C. It can be done with a non-ionic surfactants in a neutral to slightly

acidic condition at maximum 80C, for 3ominutes.

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Detergent

Ammonia/tetraqodiumpyrophosphate/soda ash

Temperature

Time

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 60 - 70 OC (based on product type)= 15- 30 min

pH

M : L

. $- .

. . . . ;iw - '''#q,j'. # . .. . . . .) C' iK: zk. C ' ! o j ' i = '< ' k: K... . act *ll . . IF/E:': . , . . . .

.= f ' ' 4%. . . v .#f .j m . . . . . . o . . . '. S Jj *.*= ' . ; ..z' = 3 i J ! ! ; . ' .. . '. kn : :rjk/!(.le# 'Ip - ' 4 t. .ék.. c ëjû ytr...,. . . . .tj . . . . . .- . !!6FùdL'#k-! ,.1 ''2t d'xj) clrtlx-cklltjx !h:1y,.:n1$ 111. lrN!. kjjsibk' ' 1! '* ' ' . ' . -' ' ' ' 'JfJ>;-. ' 7 -A. u .a . - 6a zgr . b . ë . .. . . z''.

f . k . .t ' . . @11' . ': $11)' ('7 1f. j' . . h ' . '' '' .. . . . #.+ :!l ) . rrr. ' 1 . . . . . ' i' àf I . *0$:2 <. ' - .J' œz. +. .f1 f' j ' ' . . . . ' ' -. .. ...yA- x ,w . J c. . % . b ., . . . . .

. ' . ' .. 5 j ! . ' ' ' i tj . w. ' . JJ .. 2 ' .. . . . . n Jl s UVJ . . yz4' 46= '.. . . ' .yxu . . ;k u ' cl . /4l .. . . F . . i. . /7 ' . . .. . . .

:. Wyo , . .. . . .= . 1 <$ %... . . =r. . . . . ' . u. 1#. f I Jt . . . : . .'' ' . *' xix &t=*. 6 & '*f'. . . ' ' . jj!t $ . (z 'u' . == El#!. : Ai .. . . . ' '

. gi 'j i''' ' .1jK ' k ' I ' '': 'f' . pè . ' ': ' g4 #riIf. ' ' j . . . jj .c. ' j .a ' .r=) . .. J . .LC ' .

.. .t.! A A JIr r ) . . ' . . .' . '. . . k t=h!:.. . . k . ( .. . .G. . 'R jr' '' .. '.k +T)1f' h1p. !ZB .4t44= i . . ' ..=. . s u ..gvAc . - .' FX . F4r $ ' ' ' j' 4 4 k . .c . ; . ..F c (* 1 J k ' ' ç' .. Ak mv r = % . j ' 'n : . ' C. ys . t- .r (: J a .- . T ,. gp . . t ( . e . 'J .. 1$ '. E .y. -. .à- - . 1,,,. :. uj .ë .. u' . . ... hli. yz?r :-I;kùa.. . é x . , $4. a( . p . ' . . ..! é $/0 j . -! .

. . ) it .

h ' ' .' ' ' '

. ö ' ?.u . = u. . ... .. . . k . - .... . .. k. . h . j w k) j .s: ,; .. . . .. .- . .:. r . r tqr! s.F1>..1;N s,9. .! .ï ..2 - . ' . . .. .. . . '' j . f' ' . ' ' .'f' . ' . #;11) (' ljju gkç :e '. b kk ' . ' '' ... ' ' ?* w 1+y, Q-W.fv ..' fp ' ' . .t h . .,rcZJ,j zj. >?k .441: lk a .=.v..î . . id ' '1 c . . .' .: ., . ..& ..o .= wl .t6 .a. g:net> iH a?,. 4(. > , k .g . . ' = .. . . . ejx' # ! ' z (j , Ir' 'g#.')Di ! Ia'f < 1: p ; t.. u oj Ixter rrt) z .p . > ; tr . . . .. , . . . . :. . . . ' . .. s: . z'tx ) : . : . t x . 4 . .r . q 'u u47 ' J . . tr 24* *:+. . :.it! ' 6 . k . . 'é .J: 'ijk . . . . ..< .. lflsoqlllllrfrgx pàzp:4z l . . . . . . '' . - - '': r , -. 4 w +vz #zls'f: . . ' ' . .. . jlj: . sfs ,. . g . c= .u . (: . . x. . . . .

sk i vx ' àt I . V 1 JI . u c k . f u ' ' . ' ' . . ' '' ' . . ' t = . . 'fr1 . ' j ' ' ' zi..tr ! j n(..) ry . ; ' . . ' . g . ( ' ' ' a ' . . . . . . . .. . . u .é 1*..1 y . . s . . yj 'f k . .y K-. y y . . . . . . . :. ' iql f = .'( '. ' * . ' ' '%. . u t ys & . . r . I : . . . l .#' ' ..u. 'jF . (. . .4 r . ' . #' . . %: jj.. 6 . = . i! f.;# . . . . . .' . ç ei.ij . J ..(c . . u.Q. é I ' . i

'

' ' : . : . ' . . . ' * . ..g.p... . , jy .g.(jj.p. t l ' . . . . . . u,s ). * ' f-4. .z.c.i .Ak ' . . . ,... , fqll ukljç s. . .. , . . . A' 2 .. ' . . . . . . . . . j, ' . . .. ' itl..y: . ë '''Ng. . s .'' ' ';p u.' '>E'. '-''Lrz v.@,. 'u-'': .. ' ,.. 'qi. . '. k 1>. . ... . . ' s.: ' ... , . ..-

' ..

'. . . ... . u .Nà. . . . . *. V .rp c . l&& nkjj 1 k. =. ' 'M''* '. ' ' a ' ' N % . = ' : ... . xs. . n g : . . . . .; . . zqwz .ak .. .. z=ym 1. . . . a . s . . . . t x .. n . i . LL 'Pi @1' ' ' .q ; 7 '. . ... h, . j . . rl t .' . : u! #' % x . - . .

. . J . ' hk l t -i (J: . Q .. vvî4t. . p. ' ' ' ' ..1 .1..1k. maf'' J''e! . p :......3<. . ' R2h: L' ,.ts-.u. ... ...c:. ! . '1: '.'.. E. t . .

Figure: Process ctzrve (scouring of acrylic)

=8-9

= 1 : 1 0

Procedure -

Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,

sequestering agent, and detergent.

2. Add soda ash.

Raise the temperature to 60 - 80C @ 1 - zc/minute.


5. Cool down the bath temperature to 50 C and drop.

6. Rinse twice with hot (around 50C) and cold water.

12.2 Bleaching of ace lic

Aclylics have an inherently good white color or Iittle bit yellowish and therefore,

for many purposes, bleaching is not necessary. But when an extremely whiteeffect is required, it is invariably achieved by treating with sodium chlorite

.

Practically, 100% acrylic fibers can only be bleached by an acid sodium chlorite

bleach, in which a chlorite-stable brightener can be simultaneously applied for

white goods. Usually, cotton fibers are bleached with hydrogen peroxide. But,

due to alkali sensitivity the peroxide bleaching of acrylics is possible to carry out

with special care under weakly alkaline conditions.

A) Typical œc/pe for bleaching with sodium chlorite -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/IDetergent/Lubricant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Buffer (Oxalic acid/Formic acid) = 0.5 - 1.0 g/tSodium chlorite (800A) = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lTemperature = 95 - 100OC

Time = 20 - 45 min

PH

M : L

= 3.5 - 3.8

= 1 : 1 0 - 1 : 2 0

jtyj!l *)l 'j:j4k'. *j#. .$'.Ay. g: zi .1 *72 vzilk . .sj. 4. '.z)3P4j; f k'#jyik :! . r j ; . $z. ljjlâ = . , L % ?' l 1! j 1/ ' . kI / gI' . . ; k!v . k . ' . !!L. .. =.s >. . . ' r ;e..)4 A =lèn;. ' . R q @ 4' . i;2' b 2$ J.i . Jo. . ZII =,'CIZ j d)@ffi l .1I : .. .. .

f . . . . .j u. .i . x. r;!u çl = r. y Jjjt. î j, .... , jjql é/D- . .ç. sâ. x jzsjz 'y . 1)pq . + . Aj . j k)-.'q :yj.,; . gj>yzzs . kjj...... ;. .! ks.jjij!t .. y/. j I ''':)jh- ,jyj.'.. . . jgé-z'k zrvsklL <.ge:j gtu. -.':!(. '. j.'oI.qys'.2K ë jk'é.(rî@â.:jR A' ' 11 = . = s '> y

1 J lk - . . z 5ç:, . eqà.j I ..k . ! = a 'hp, 4=4.. Jgcsu . 2t. vg.jpw .. .. x. jjkjg, j sj .j,pw1yg. . :..gya . ur .j.4Lj .. . . . . . . J .=. o jgq ryu. zg Jfj. try. jy , ..tjsl :.r:.s;1j3/45 . .u1:.. ... T tvzi-. . . t j . y. . . :<$..jj, T...'wmrk: iki . e % T; 11 . r'ç 't - ' : î J $ J$ >:;'' ' r- .z . . ' jr ' . . p z J ' a .:@( ;'w .?!> :a ï% a .! ,.%).=;'k . 1'I . r.' g ..L... . '= '$g .=q 'kykk; ; . . k!5.z' g' :!t q'e . '.n %ljl4xi. .k%L ? ld ètv'npf . i q9 .<' .. . ' - c5. .. a Lzb.'lk e; . )y. .) '' ' . . . . tb' ' a-a . s

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b : .

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' >eyl yx . , hr- t k . .

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J . . . ! . . . . . ; c w. L . . . .Fj t . <. :q . . . , . . y . j;... . . . ': . . ,j1 . . . .. . . . , . . !y! .tTy..; . a . .'! *: . tIi. j:. . Au 4 gc . . ;s:I tr = . .: . . i. ' d! ' A' ..' . . .' . : $-1 y= . /'1111' '' jkjlk i!rv 5. 'bL=# . . t pe nqr xjjx. % iu . çjk . . ' ' o . . :' j . ! . ' c . . . '=1L . '' >' Aél 'Ak. . ' . m' . ; . ' .J . ' . w e. y. AK v:=..x' Iek.. . .ir';k. .-n - ' . . ' . S .. . Ag. .. ' . œ=.s iii. !j - 2515. 7- ' ' ' -<: ' bg' '.jji!-xO.. j fti. Ie.. . .sj a m...' ( . - huw !.)ju=..; '','...-.'m.a%. !uk.#IgW. . .'y;.#'.*WR.1'iX '. . . . . . . , . , . J , . . s ,:t. .:4, -jp .,k. ,c:. J. t4,ll - . . . .z . . .:0 ,< .-. u,K ., qslkjls.f cys..p., v... j!. .rrp .bjbx...bL;. yy,u . .. . q . .. , .jg.s..). .:. aji!;jL jq; tk:, ajjjgs. , .. ajqj. ,. gp;. . ..,..,9.

.. 4 .4Jc . . . :.ri$ts.,>,>N:+:. .. : , :. ' . - - 4. z znj;,, ) o'+.z :k -n>. t;),a. /C :.;'-w & SF:J . : L . . :. . . ë;. . . js p &y . .,,!. : tg ,$..$aë). è:,...

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Figure.. Process ctzlve (bleaching of acry/jc with sodium chlorite)

Procedure -1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with necessary surfactants,

. buffer salt, sodium chlorite and formic acid.

2. Raise the temperature to 100C @ 1 - 3c/min.3. Run the bath for 20 - 45 minutes.

4. Cool down the bath temperature to 50 - 60 C and drop.

5. Rinse tWice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.

6. Treat the goods with antichlor (e.g. 0.5 - 1 .0 sodium bisuïte and 1 .0 g/Itetrasodium pyrophosphate) for removing residual chlorine

.

7. Rinse again with cold water.

Nole; A suitable optical brightener which is stable fo acid ch/olïle b/eaches can be used withsodium chlorite bleaching bath. A stabilizer should be used to control the chlorine dioxideemissions (e.g. borax, polyphosphates), and corrosion inhibitors (e.g. sodium nitrate) should bepresent in the bath.

B) Typical recipe for bleaching with hydrogen peroxide -W etting agent = 1

.0 - 2.0 g/IDetergent/Lubricant = 1

.0 - 2.0 g/lPeroxide stabilizer = 0

.5 - 1.0 g/ISoda ash = 0

.5 - 1.0 g/IHydrogen peroxide (350é) = 3.0 - 6.0 g/ITemperature. = 80 - 850C

Time = 15 - 30 minpl-l = 8 - 9M :L = 1 :1 0

Flnure: Process ct/zv/ (bleaching of acrylic with hydrogen peroxide)

Procedure -1. Set the bath with substrate and necessary auxiliaries (wetting agent,

sequestering agent, detergent) at room temperature.2. Raise the temperature to 50C, and add peroxide stabilizer and soda ash.3. After few minutes add (dosing) hydrogen peroxide into the bath.4. After attaining the temperature to 80 - 85C run the bath for 15 - 30 minutes.5. Cool down the bath temperature to 50 - 60C and drop the bath.6. Rinse twice with hot and iold water successively.7. Treat with acetic acid for neutralization.8. Using peroxide killer is advisable to die out the residual peroxide in goods.

12.3 Combined scouring, bleaching and whitening of acrylic

& Typical recipe for scouring, bleaching and whitening -W etting agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IDetergent/Lubricant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IBuffer (Formic/Oxalic acid) = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ISodium chlorite (80%) = 1.0 - 3.0 g/IBrightener = X %Temperature = 95 - 1000CTime = 20 - 45 min

=. 3.5 - 4pHM : L = 1 .. 1 0

Flturef Pmcese curve (scouring, bleaching and whitening of acrylic)

Procedure -Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with necessary surfactants,

buffer salt, sodium chlorite and formic acid.

Raise the temperature to 100C @ 1 3c/min. During raising thetemperature add brightener around 50C temperature.



5. Rinse twice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.6. Treat the goods with antichlor (e.g. 0.5 - 1.0 g/I sodium bisulfite) for

removing residual chlorine.

Rinse again with cold water.

12.4 Dyeing of acrylic with cationic (e.g. basic) dyesBasic dyes are sometimes called cationic dyes because of the chromophore in

basic dye molecules contains a positive charge. The cationic groups of these

dyes react with acidic groups present in acrylic, modacrylic. cationic dyeable

polyester, cationic dyeable nylon, or occasionally protein fibers. The cationic

dyeable fibers contain either carboxyl , - COOH, or more commônly sulfonic

acid, - SOaH, groups. The positively charged basic dyes can easily interact with

these groups at around PH values of 3.5 - 6.0, by forming salt Iinkage between

the dye and fiber. Although the most of cationic dyes exhibit Iow migration

power in dyeing. But at higher temperature (above glass transition temperature,Tg) it tends to penetrate high. In that case sometimes it needs to use cationicretarders for controlled absorption and distribution of dyes over the whole

substrate. Dyeing parameter and fiber types are also a big factor for uniform

absorption and Ievel dyeing of PAC. Depending on the type of PAC the optimum

process parameter time-temperature can be chosen. There are several methodsused for dyeing of acrylic goods but the basic principles are -

1. Conventional/ Controlled temperature method

2. Retarder (cationic retarder) method3. Retarder-temperature method

Depending on the operational situation, machine properties, and goods typethese processes can be used to dye PAC or its blends with other sbers

. Amongthese processes the retarder method is most widely used process

.

12.4.1 Conventional/controlled temperature methodGlass transition temperature, Tg of acrylic fibers is around 80C, thus the dyeingtemperature should be higher than that range. After reaching the glass transitiontemperature gf acrylic, the dyeing temperature should increase slowly andcarefully, otherwise rapid uptake of dyes may Iead unlevelness of dyeing

.

Typical recipe -

W etting agentSequesteriqg agentLevelling agent

Acetic acid (80%)

Sodium acetateDyesGaluber saltTemperature

Time

PHM :L

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/I= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1,0 - 2.0 g/I (according to venderrecommendation)

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I= xoé

= Y g/I ,(1 .0 - 2.5 g/I)= 80 - 900 C= 45 - 90 min= 4.5 - 5.5

= j .. 1 c

igure: Process ctllve (dye/ng of acrylic with basic dyes fn conventional method)

Procedure -

Set the dyebath with substrate at 40 - 500c temperature and add wetting

agent, sequestering agent, buffer (acetic acid &sodium acetate), and salt,then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

Add (dosing) dye solution and raise the temperature to 800c @ 1.0 - 1.50C/min.

3. Raise the temperature from 800C to 85 - 900 C @ 0.3 - 0.50 C/min. In thisstage dyeing rate is very high - it has a big possibility to produce unlevel

dyeing. So, the rate of increasing temperature should be very slow.4. Run the bath for 60 - 90 minutes at the same temperature.

5. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 - 800 C over 15 - 20 minutes.

6. Lower down the bath temperature from 70 - 80@ C to 40 - 500 C over 10 -

15 minutes.

Drop the dyebath and carry on the aqertreatment process.

Anertreatment process -

Rinse twice with warm and cold water.

2. Treat with:

Detergent

Acetic acid

Temperatbre = ca. 50C

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Time = 10 - 15 mins

M : L = 1 : 1 0

3. Rinse again.

4. Softening (if needed).

12.4.2 Retarder methodUniform dye uptake is very impodant for dyeing of acrylic with basic dyes. In this

method cationic retarder is used for controlling the dye absorption. lnitial stage of

dyeing a lot of dye molecules tend to adsorb on the fiber surface; the used

cationic retarder delay fast absorption of dyes in the fibers.

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent

(80%)

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/lAcetic acid

Sodium acetate

Retarder (cationic)Dyes

TemperatureTime

PH

M:L

Figure: Process ctzlve (dyeing of acqlic with basic dyes in œtarder method)

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I=Y%

=X%

= ca. 98C

= 45- 90 min

= 4 - 5

= 1 .. 1 o

Procedure -1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 80 - 850C temperature and add wetting

agent, sequestering agent, buffer (acetic acid &sodium acetate), and salt,then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution and raise the temperature to 98 -1000C @ 0.5 -1.00 C/min.


4. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 - 80O C @ 1.00 C/min.5. Lower down the bath temperature from 70 - 800 C to 40 - 500 C @ 2.00

C/min.


Anertreatment pp cess -

1. Rinse twice with warm and cold water.2. Treat with:

Detergent = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/IAcetic acid = 0.5 - 1.0 g/lTemperature = ca. 50CTime = 10 - 15 minsM : L = 1 : 1 0Rinse again.

Softening (if needed).

12.4.3 Combined retarder-tem perature m ethod

This dyeing process is carried out in the temperature of 85 - 95 C with a Iower

amount of cationic retarder than the retarder method or at 90 - 95 C with higher

amount of retarder. This method is most used and very suitable for good control

of dyeing process. Dyebath is prepared at 70 - 75C for dyeing within 85C and 80- 85 C for dyeing at 95 C.

8 u + 1

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Sequestering agent

Acetic acid (800â)Sodium acetate

Retarder (cationic)Dyes

Temperature

Time

pl-l

M:L

= 0.1 - 0.5 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l

= Y %

= X%

= ca. 98C

= 45 - 90 min

= 4 - 5

= 1 .. 1 o

Figure: Process ctzrve (dyeing of aclylic with basic dyes in combined retarder-

lernperaftzre method)Procedure -1 . Set the dyebath with substrate at 70 - 75% temperature and add wetting

agent, sequestering agent, buffer (acetic acid &sodium acetate), andretarder, then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution and run for 5 minutes again.3. Raise the temperature to 80@C @ 0.3 - 0.5* C/minute.4. Hold five mintltes at 80>C and then raise the bath to 90 - 95 0C@ 0.1 - 0.50

C/minute.Run the bath for 20 - 30 minutes at the same temperature

.

Lower down the bath temperature to 70 - 800 C @ 1 .00 C/min.5.

6.

7. Lower down the bath temperature from 70 - 800 C to 40 - 500 C @ 2.00C/min.


Anertreatment process -Rinse twice with warm and cold water.

Treat with:Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IAcetic acid = 0.5 - 1.0 g/lTemperature = ca. 50CTime = 10 - 15 mins

M :L = 1 : 1 03. Rinse again.

4. Softening (if needed).

Nofe: Paste the dye with acetic acid then dissolve lt to prepare dye solution. Add to the dyebathafter Fltration. Then aWtlsl lhe pH fo 4 - 5. p/'l is a big lbguencing factor for sucbessful dyeing ofPAC with cationic dyes. lt is recommended to use a àteer (acetic acid & sodium acetate) tomaintain a stable pbl range. Higher the PH of dye Iiquor increases the dye affn/ly of sbers. Al IowerPH the dye uptake become slower Use of retarder is mainly depends on the depth of shade.Usually higher shade% require lower amount of relaeer and Iighter shade need higher amount ofrelardanl (up to 5% based on lype of relardlhg agent). Cooling is another important factor forst/ccessftz/ dyeing. To avoid deformal/orl and hardening of the material dyebath should 1)& cooledslowly and uniformly.


polyester/cotton blend goods

13.1 Scouring of polyester/cotton blends

Polyester and cotton are two different fibers obtained from natural source and

made of synthetically consecutively. Because of varying physical (Iength,diameter, strength, elasticity, torsional rigidity, frictional propedies) and chemicalpropedies (thermal properties, density, resistance to chemical agents) of thesetwo fibers have Ied to treat this blend within proper conditions. Cotton has very

good resistance to alkalià but the action of aqueous alkalis may lead an adverse

impact on polyester - it should not be pressure kier boiled in the presence of

alkalis, as these conditions favor an accelerated attack on the fiber. The

resistance of 'Terylene' fiber to alkalis is fully satisfactory for the purpose of a

textile fiber. Thus, in the case of polyester/cotton blends scouring, the alkali

sensitivity should consider during treatment. * en the polyester/cotton blend

consists morè amount of cotton then this blends need more scouring and

bleaching agent in pretreatment because the cotton fibers hold more dirt and

impurities than polyester.

Typical scouring reclpe -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l

Sequesterant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IDetergent = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

Caustic soda 36@Be = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

Soda ash = 1.0 - 4.0 g/I

= 90 - 100 @CTemperature

Time = 30 - 60 min

pH = 10.5 + 0.5M : L = 1 : 1 0

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Figure: Process ctlrve (scouring of polyester/cotton blends)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath

detergent, sequestering agents, and alkalis.

2. Raise the temperature to 95 - 100C @ 1 - 3c/min.

with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,




13.2 Bleaching of polyester/cotton blends

Usually, the bleaching of polyester/cotton blends is carried out by sodium

hypochlorite or peroxide bieaching method. The polyester itself is not bleached

but its intrinsic color is often sufficiently white. Sodium chlorite can be used when

it needs bleaching of both parts.

Typical bleaching recipe -

W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ISequesterant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I



Soda ash = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

H2Oa (35%) = 2.0 - 6.0 g/lTemperature = 80 - 90 @CTime = 30 - 40 min

pH = 10.5 * 0.5

M :L = 1 : 1 0

Figure: Process ctzme (bleaching of polyester/cotton blends)

Procedure -Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,

detergent, perczlde stabilizer and alkalis.2. Raise the temperature to 80 - 90C @ 1 3c/min. During raising the

temperature add peroxide at around 50C.3. After attaining the optimum temperature of around 85C, then run the bath for

30 - 40 minutes.

4. Cool down the bath temperature to around 60 C and drop.

0. ' Q k . '=h>A;. : x$ .p .u.., . .

5. Rinse twice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.6. Treat with acetic acid for neutralization and peroxide killer to eradicate the

residual hydrogen peroxide.

13.3 Combined scouring and bleaching of polyester/cotton blends

Typical recipe -





Caustic soda 36@Be = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Soda ash = 1 .0 - 5.0 g/I

H202 (35%) = 2.0 - 6.0 g/ITemperaturé = 90 - 100 OC

Time = 30 - 60 min

PH = 10.5 :k 0.5

M : L = 1 : 1 0

: F: s ,'.-ai tkjpmr. jrald â ;i .w' ,9 'h ' 2)2,.,:1=c' ' - .f* twyfp.' ..' ' ' i - --% s' ' ''lik -. .i.t :,j;LL..t):i.tYx'v4 lV'lour.ll'u .f@ âu'l/' ., .. -h. .:F.'.-A2<:dI.. . . . - ' .

yaià/-o . ' ''K4 ..œ ,. 'ét.A.è -

Flture: Process ctzlve (combined scouring and bleaching of cotton/polyester blend)

Procedure -

1. Set bath with substrate and necessary auxiliaries (wetting agent,sequestering agent, detergent) at room temperature.

2. Raise the temperature to 50C, and add peroxide stabilizer and caustic soda

& soda ash; then run for 10 - 15 minutes.

3. Add (dosing) hydrogen peroxide into the bath and run for 10 minute.

4. Raise the bath temperature to 90 - 100C @ zc/minute.5. Run the bath for 30 - 60 minutes.

6. Drop the bath and rinse twice (hot and cold water).Treat with acetic acid for neutralization.

8. Using peroxide killer is advisable to die out the residual peroxide in the

goods.

13.4 Dyeing of polyester/cotton blends

13.4.1 One-bath one-stage dyeing with disperse/direct dyes at atmospheric

pressure

In this method the PC or CVC goods can be dyed at one single bath with

disperse and selected direct dyes (stable in high temperature and compatiblewith polyester dyeing) - disperse for polyester and direct for cotton. Some direct

dyes, for example, C.l. Direct Black 22 - the pl-l may be adjusted to 8 - 9 withsoda ash.

Typical reclpe -Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I



Carrier = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

Disperse dyes = X%

Selected direct dyes = Y%

Acetic acid (50%) = 0.5 - 2 g/I (to maintain pH = 4 - 5)Glauber salt = 5.0 - 20.0 g/lTemperature = 90 - 1000 C

Time = 60 - 120 mins

M : L = 1 : 10

' 'b* * X= ..g .,)).ua' . buyt '%;)' '1x ,2.

. gi= x=Q' '%.= w . . o p ., ? . zk . Gt 'ra. ' . . 'xr. , b t . jg , .. . , ..' w...Q% .a1 ' . .V'.Z .

Figure: Process c&rBe (dyeing of PC or CSX al atmospheric pressum - one-bath

one-stage method)

Procedure -


agent, Ieveler, acetic acid, carrier and other auxiliaries, then run the dyebath

for 5-10 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) both dyes and raise the temperature to 90-1000C @ 1-20C/min.

R.EV<, x, % . P+ . #. Rl 1 t2& >GQCV

. .5 iv.. .m. . . ... .d': . --.

Add (dosing) glauber salt and run the bath for one to two hours at the sametemperature.

4. Lower down (cooling) the bath temperature to 70 - 80O C over 10 - 15minutes.




2. Treat the fabric with suitable fixing agent for improving the wet fastness

propedies of dyed goods.

3. Soap wash according to vender recommendation.



13.4.2 One-bath oneelge dyeing with dispeoe/direct dyes at high temperature

In this method the PC or CVC goods can be dyed at one single bath with

disperse and selected direct dyes (stable at 135C temperature and compatiblewith polyester dyeing) - disperse for polyester and direct for cotton. Some direct

dyes, for example, C.I. Direct Black 22 - the pH may be adjusted to 8 - 9 withsoda ash.

Typical recipe -

Dispersing agent

Sequestering agent

Levelling agent

Disperse dyes

Selected direct dyes

Ammonium sulfate

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= X%

= Yo/o

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

t

)

v-.& 'r.gz;Gw b .n >;ï.e .' .ka CJ< . j.#P! h . . x - *- .'rm .. gp .: ui. O 'D ' k. A.RT ' ' '(q' . . . ' ... . ' < 7=A'VV ' 1 - 'R ' ' '. ' .' . . I.. J /*7 k'. :gL xuhyp4!z!

Acetic acid (500A)Glauber salt

Temperature

Time

M:L

Flkure: Process ctzrk'e (dyeing of PC or CVC at high temperature - one-bath one

stage method)

= 0.5 - 2 g/I (to maintain PH = 4 - 5)= 5.0 - 20.0 g/I

= 125 - 130* C

= 60 - 120 mins

= 1 : 1 0

Procedure -

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 50OC temperature and add dispersing

agent, ammonium sulfate, acetic acid, Ieveler and other auxiliaries, then run

the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) both dyes and raise the temperature to 70-800C @ 2-30 C/min.3. Raise the temperature from 70 - 800C to 125 - 1350C @ 1 - 1.50 C/min.4. Run the béth for 30 - 60 minutes and then cool down the bath to 90 - 950C

over 10 - 20 minutes.

5. Add (dosing) glauber salt and alkalis (if necessary), and run the bath for 20 -30 mintltes for exhaustion of direct dyes.

6. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 - 80O C over 10 minutes.

7. Run the bath at 70 - 80O C for 30 minutes.


9. Carry on the aftertreatment process.



2. Treat the fabric with suitable fixing agent for improving the wet fastness

propedies of dyed goods.

3. Soap wash according to vender recommendation.



13.4.3 One-bath two-stages dyeing with disperse/reactive dyes

& Using disperse/bi-function reactive dyes

Usually, this method is used for dyeing of knit, and yarn dyeing in winch, jet,beam or package dyeing machine. ln this method, the polyester part is dyed firstwith disperse dyes and then dye the cotton pad with HE or bi/multi-functional

tive dyes in 2nd stage.Wpe reac

Typical recipe for polyester pa# -

Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/1



Ammonium sulfate = 1.0 2.0 g/I

Acetic acid (50%) = 0.5 - 2 g/l (to maintain pi-l = 4 - 5)

Dyes (disperse dyes) = X%Temperature = 130 - 135* C

Time = 30 - 60 mins

M:L = 1:10

Preparation of disperse dye solution -

Disperse dyes are water insoluble, thus need to make a dispersible (partially

soluble) solution by stirring with warm water. If necessary add dispersing agent

with it and stir rapidly.

Typical recèe for cotton parl -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Reactive dyes = X%

Glauber salt

Oq common salt

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

= Y g/I; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/l', (according to vender recommendation)

= 50 - 60OC (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 50 min

= 10.5 + 0.5

= 1 : 1 0

Figure: Process ctzrve (dyeing of polyester/cotton fabric with disperse/reactive(bl/multi-functional) dyes - one-bath two-stage method)

Procedure -


agent, ammonium sulfate, acetic acid (pH around 4 5), and otherauxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution of disperse dyes and raise the temperature to 70 -

800c @ 2 - 30 C/min.

Raise the temperature from 70C to 130 - 135 @ 1 - 1.50 C/min.4. Run the bath for 30 - 60 minutes at the same temperature.

5. Lower down the bath temperature to 80 - 900 C over 10 - 20 minutes and

add alkalis (e.g. tri-sodium phosphate) for neutralization (to drop the PH to

around 7).6. Add (dosing) reactive dyes with salt according to recipe and run for 20 - 30

minutes.

Lower down the temperature to 60@ C and add alkalis (soda ash) and run for30 - 60 minutes for cotton pad dyeing.


Aftretreatment process -To improve colorfastness, proper washing and cleaning is very impodant to

remove aII unsxed dyes. After polyester dyeing the unsxed disperse dyes is

cleaned due to action of alkalis. The snal aftertreament process is done as below

mentioned recipe or according to vender recommendations.

1. Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively, and then

2. Treat the fabric with -

Detergent = 1 - 3 g/I

Caustic = 1 - 3 g/I

at 70 - 80Q C for 15 - 30 minutes.

3. Rinse hot and cold wash successively.

B) Using diàperse/ HE or VS fype reactive dyesTypical recipe for polyester pa# -

Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I


Dyes (disperse dyes)Acetic acid (50%)Temperature

Time

M:L


Disperse dyes are water insoluble, thus need to make a dispersible (padially

soluble) solution by stirring with warm 'water. lf necessary add dispersing agentwith it and stir rapidly.

= X%

= 0.5 - 2 g/I (to maintain pl-l = 4 - 5)= 120 - 130* C

= 30 - 50 mins

= j .. j o

Typical recipe for collon pa4 -

Dyes (HE/vinyl sulphone) = X%Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Alkalis

Temperature

Time

PH

M :L

= Y g/l', (according to vender recommendation)

= Z g/l; (according to vender recommendation)= 70 - 85*C (according to vendor recommendation)= 60 - 90 min

= 10 :k 0.5

= 1 .. 1 0

F/gtlre; Process ctzrve (dyeing of polyester/cotton fabr/c with disperse/reactive

(HE or vinyl sulphone) dyes - one-bath twœstage method)

Procedure -1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 50OC temperature and add dispersing

agent, acetic acid, and other auxiliaries, then run the dyebath for 10 - 15

minutes.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution and raise the temperature to 120 - 130OC @ 1 - 30C/min.


4. Lower down the bath temperature to 80 - 850 C over 10 - 20 minutes andadd alkalis for neutralization (to drop the pH to around 7).

5. Add reactive dyes with salt according to recipe and run for 10 minutes at the

same temperature.

6. Add alkalis according to recipe and run for 60 - 90 minutes at the

temperature (around 800C).7. Drop the dyebath and carry on the aAedreatment process

.


To improve colorfastness, proper washing and cleaning is very important toremove aII tlnsxed dyes. Usually, this is done as below mentioned recipe oraccording to vender recommendations.

1 . Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively, and then


Detergent = 1 - 3 g/I

Caustic = 1 - 3 g/I

at 70 - 80@ C for 15 - 30 minutes.

13.4.4 Two-bath two-stages dyeing with disperse/reactive dyes

Method -1 (Intermediate reduction cleaninql:

Usually, this method is used for dyeing of knit, and yarn dyeing in winch, jet,

beam or package dyeing machine. In this method, the pre-scoured PC or CVCfabrics are dyed in two distinct baths successively

. The polyester pad is dyedfirst with disperse dyes and then dye the cotton part with reactive

, sulfur, direct

or vat dyes in 20d bath. Reduction cleaning is done after polyester dyeing. This

method is suitable for any depth of shade, especially for pale shade.

Typical rec//e for polyester parl -Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l



Dyes (disperse dyes) = X%Acetic/Formic acid = 0.5 - 2 g/I (to maintain PH = 4 - 5)Temperature = 120 - 130* C

Time = 30 - 60 mins

M : L = 1 : 1 0


Disperse dyes al'e water insoluble, thus need to make a dispersible (padially

soluble) solution by stirring with warm water. If necessary add dispersing agentwith it and stir rapidly.

Typical recipe for cotton parl -

Dyes (bi/multi-functional

reactive dyes) = X%Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

PH

= Y g/I; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/1; (according to vender recommendation)

= 50 - 60OC (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 50 min

= 10.5 à 0.5

t.:. ) .

Figure.. Process ctzae (dyeing of PEs/cellulose blended with disperse/reactive dyes- two-bath method)

)

Procedure -

Bath - I (for nolvester dveinc):1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 500C temperature and add dispersing

agent, acetic /formic acid (if necessary ammonium sulfate) to achieve 4 - 5pH, and other necessary auxiliaries', then run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution of disperse dyes at 700 C and raise theI

temperature to 130 - 1359C @ 2 - 30 C/min.3. Run the bath for 30 - 60 minutes at the same temperature.

4. Lower down (cooling) the bath temperature to 80 - 90O C over 10 - 20

minutes and add alkalis for neutralization (to drop the PH to around 7).5. Drop the bath and rinse goods with cold water.

6. Carry on reduction clearing (with hydroze + alkalis) at 70C for 15 - 25minutes or according to vender recommendation, and then go for cotton

dyeing.

Bath - 11 (for cotton dveinn):1. Set the dyebath with substrate and other necessal auxiliaries at 50OC

temperature.

2. Raise the temperature to 600C and add (dosing) reactive dyes.3. Run the dyebath for 5 - 10 minutes.

Add (dosing) salt and run the bath for 15 - 20 minutes at the same

temperature.

5. Add (dosing) alkalis and run the bath for 40 - 60 minutes at the same

temperature

6. Drop the dyebath and carry on the 5naI aftertreatment process.


To improve colodastness, proper washing and cleaning is very important toremove aII unfixed dyes. After polyester dyeing the unfixed disperse dyes is

cleaned due to action of hydroze and alkalis. The final aftedreament process is

done as below mentioned recipe or according to vender commendations:

1. Rinse twice with hot aRd cold water successively, and then


Detergent

Soda ash

at 70 - 80* C for 15 - 30 minutes.

= 1 - 3 g/I

= 1 - 3 g/I

Rinse again as required.

Method - 11 (lntermedlate scourinq):

In this meth6d, unscoured and unbleached polyester/cotton blends are carried

out consecutive treatments - polyester dyeing, scouring & bleaching, and then

cotton dyeing. Usually, this method is used for dyeing of medium to deep

shades, and when blends contain Iess podion of cotton part.

Typical recipe for polyester parl -

Dispersing agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/lSequestering agent = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/ILevelling agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Dyes (disperse dyes) = X%Acetic/Formic acid = 0.5 - 2 g/l (to maintain pH = 4 - 5)Temperature = 130 - 135* C

Time = 30 - 45 mins

M : L = 1 : 1 0


Disperse dyes are water insoluble, thus need to make a dispersible (partially

soluble) solution by stirring with warm water. If necessary add dispersing agentwith it and stir rapidly.

Typical scouring and bleaching recipe -




Caustic soda (36@Be) = 1.0 - 3.0 g/ISoda ash = 1.0 - 3.0 g/l

Temperature = 80 = 90@C

Time = 20 - 30 min

PH = 10.5 + 0.5

M:L = 1 :10

Fyp/ca/ recipe for collon parl -




Dyes (bi/multi-functionalreactive dyes) = X%Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Soda ash

Temperature

Time

pH

M:L

= Y g/I; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/l; (according to vender recommendation)= 50 - 60@C (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 50 min

= 10.5 â 0.5

= 1 :10

Figure: Process ctllve (dyeing of polyester/cotton blends with disperse/reactive dyesin two-bath fwo-sfages method)

Procedure -

Bath - I (for Dolvester dveinn):

1. Set the dyebath with substrate at .500c temperature and add dispersing

agent, acetic /formic acid (if necessary ammonium sulfate) to achieve 4 - 5pH, and other necessary atlxiliaries; then run the dyebath for 5 - 10minutes.

2. Add (dosing) dye solution of disperse dyes

temperature to 130 - 1350C @ 2 - 30 C/min.3. Run the bath for 30 - 60 minutes at the same temperature.

4. Lower down (cooling) the bath temperature to 80 - 900 C over 10 - 20

mintltes and add alkalis for neutralization (to drop the pl-l to around 7).5. Drop and rinse goods with cold water.6. Carry out short scouring for cotton pad with caustic soda and small amount

of hydroz. The reduction cleaning of polyester is taken place during this

treatment. This process is done at 80 - 90C for 30 minutes. Thus, don't

need to do the reduction cleaning last.

at 700 C and raise the

Treat with acetic acid for neutralization and carry out the cotton dyeing in 20d

bath.

Bath - 11 (for cotton dveina):Set the dyebath with substrate and other necessal auxiliaries at 40 - 500C

temperature.

2. Raise the temperature to 600C and add (dosing) reactive dyes.3. Run the dyebath for 5 - 10 mintltes.

4. Add (dosing) salt and run the bath for 15 - 20 minutes at the same

temperature.

5. Add (dosing) alkalis and run the bath for 40 - 60 minutes at the same

temperature.

6. Drop the dyebath and carœ on the final aftertreatment process.

Anretreatment pmcesa -To improve colodastness, proper washing and cleaning is very impodant to

remove alI unfixed dyes. In that case reduction cleaning is done at scouring and

bleaching action after polyester dyeing and before cotton dyeing. The final

aftedreament process is done as below mentioned recipe or according to vender

commendations:

Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively, and then


Soap = 1 - 3 g/l

Soda ash = 1 - 3 g/I

at 80 - 90@ C for 15 - 30 minutes.

3. Rinse again as required.


pùlyam ide/cotton blend goods

14.1 Scouring of polyamide/cotton blends

During production and processing many types of dirt and soil can contaminate

polyamide fibers; moreover, the cotton fibers have some inherent impurities. The

raw goods of polyamide/cotton blend may soiled with graphite, cedain oils,

greases, fats and other impurities. These impurities may dimcult to remove by

scouring process after heat-setting the blend. Usually, h:at-setting is required

when the blend contains 50 percent or more of nylon. It needs very good

cleaning when the blend contain higher amount of cotton fibers.

Typical recipe for scouring of polyamide/ cotforl blend -




Soda ash = 1.0 - 3.0 g/I

Caustic soda = 0.2 - 1.0 g/l (if necessary)Temperature = 95 - 1000C

Time = 15 - 30 mip

PH

M : L

= 10 (apprx-)= j : 1 0

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. y. . .g . . :ét px' :. 7.'i!): - a!,p ï1 ï, 1 uy. ,+.' ptqslkpr'z ! h'! f.ibt 1$1fF'l!!u*% 1; 4 e.':;:1'. p 'J. la<ï'. Yt c@. -= :-.* . : />, u . . . z ,z a .. . iur l ... . .. . q . . . . .. . . -: .së... zp.:. '....:!'.1!1.: .b..% r...,..q @i; ' k. rx.1u.r!k.t''!.. '.,..! Er @iiC''J: i .1 ç L'. ip

Figure: Process ctllve (scouring of polyamide/cotton blends)

Procedure -

Set the bath with substrate at room

detergent, sequestering agents, and alkalis.

2. Raise the temperature to 95 - 100C @ 1 - 3c/min.3. Run the bath for 15 - 30 minutes.

Cool down the bath temperature to 60 - 70 C and drop.


temperature with wetting agent,

4.

5.. Y

14.2 Bleaching of polyamide/cotton blends

Sodium chlorite bleaches causes no degradation of either cellulosic or polyamide

fibers and it's a better bleaching agent for both polyamide and cotton parts. But

the peroxide bleach is common when the cotton part is higher than polyamide

part in the mixture of polyamide/cotton, polyamide/wool blends. W hen hydrogen

peroxide is used for the bleaching of these blends and a suitable fiber protective

agent is used with the bleaching Iiquor to protect the polyamide fiber from

oxidative damage.

A) Typical rec/pe /or bleaching of polyamide/cotton blend with sodium chlorite -


Detergent/Lubricant = 1.0 - 2..0 g/I

Buffer/Formic acid = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Sodium chlorite (.80%) = 2.0 - 5.0 g/ITemperature = 90 - 950C

Time

PH

M : L

= 60 - 90 min

= 3 - 4

= 1 : 1 0 - 1 : 2 0

W. .F:- .

j 6'

.. - e y% . . .Iw ru 'kpyàxl:cp j sejre;j.t <T . 4 . : ' . H 'V V.. . e <6 w.n . k x . i. '. . kjyix . Y.: == ' ' iGW, Wev. .= .. '.. v 6 .. x > K x y .. . v. . ..u'<.j! w N3=ax . c . =kv. w . .=CL. - sxu. . . u.s.x==. . . .h y .. . .qjjj. j! ucoupzx w qr..g a aq=yE . ljjj.u-p .zD Y' .. f Jè> : rv*ep' 'fR

Figure: Process clprve (bleaching of polyamide/cotton blend with sodium chlorite)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with necessary surfactants,

buffer, sodium chlorite and formic acid.

Raise the temperature to 90 - 95C @ 1 - 3C/min.

Run the bath for 60 - 90 minutes.


5. Rinse twice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.. . .... klï . . su ,êzl1.f. .+ AfG.+ l ii. : jsx.xwz.sx. .=f. GJ. .5% -'I . 'q'z. stzL riT:R-v 4 p Q> ' ' ' :. - .v, 'Lï A a :4 . T 7Q ; .

Treat the goods with 1.0 - 2.0 g/l soda ash for neutralize the goods.

Rinse again with cold water.

B) Typical recipe for bleaching of polyamide/cotton blend with hydrogen peroxide


Lubricant/ Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I


Caustic soda 36O Be = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Soda ash = 1.0 - 5.0 g/l

Hydrogen peroxide (35%) = 3.0 - 6.0 g/lFibre protective agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/I


Time = 20 - 45 min

pl-l = 10 (apprx.)M :L = 1 :10

=. . Xi A d k ' '.$ k.-w... -1..:/ . .k .1' ... .N q. t <. . t--xgw- .

Figure.. Process c&lve (bleaching of polyamide/cottonblend with Hcol

14.3 W hitening of polyam ide/cotton blends

To impad whiteness of polyamide/cotton blends the material is whitened with an

appropriate brightening agent in reductive Iiquor. The used brightener should be

compatible with both sbers. The polyamide part is brightened at boilingtemperature and the addition of salt stimulate for brightening the cotton pad aswell.

Typical reclye for brightening of polyamide/cotton blend in a reductive bleachingIiquor-

Brightener = 1.0 - 2.0%

Lubricant/ Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Reducing agent = 2.0 - 4.0 g/l


Time = 10 - 20 min

PH = 9 - 10

3 - 6 g/I Glauber salt is used at the starting of cooling slop in the process curve.

u. :L1j w ,. çA: . . 44 .! : . . . e7. pI . &qT x : L.. F w. c ':'-F - n . : L:l:( I . u. .3I -F$=z2aA75 s4...: > E â: .7' l ,.lù.+q.jj.Dr zc # 1 ; 1. 616:' 'l: 'E 4 /1 .j . ;' 3 yIj!tE. Lks. . .Lt z c .;it. r .'g i p :h ràbb , - ' . . / .r v Azy ' - ' . - ' . x = ' =Xl .. = . - XLimpf .:s Q é = ;1p. 'L.&r .- Rl ' JI ù::.. FY ' A) ùNK,. )>y.pwn. X . .' . . ..y; ! . . . . :1 . .. ! . 4Jzp == . J J :). 2 = ' J 1* )rJ r#iE4. qj k. .ja N .. : ajk r I . L R J . .. . . . . w'il=/k. : . . . .==. - . = ë = .pj.. = -' - . . A >#r 'ejjrl'ljy:a r! (. lkzjyytz?vk'f ' =!j . :c.lr4-NrN : ,' lv. j 'f . j g. ys.nwzgà . r . . g=y. ,( ). . .. ..è . .. . . . 1. - ' ..s.x... . -= . p ..1,. vy7%. . . j)j...j . ..!.: vxssslj. z!yk *4z 1. k J . @..! .4(@.:..kIJ q;1k. t ...*.i 'ja a qn g'.lpiklxpA%lRdc. ' ' (. : i FFY. . . ' ' = ' ' u =-- a y :./4:1 eu .ïc .. , . oyj;y .gj...!jk. . '.'w . 7.!2.. 'CF. .f2 pew . .j; r + I . . . . . u . . . . ; . f. ç . x.c=.= . = z>....z .s'j,: u . ... k sxa .. . . . . . - - . . g= . . d . . ...

- ( .u= . v -. = xu . )k . . ' G. .. - . . . vr J

. . . .. c.. .d .'ï 4: x ... - . . . = > = .r ' h.c.. ''#*%'. . . . . . . .. . .=. .;j éy . .! .. .. . : - .( -eu. . --.: .. . ! . uj. :s. ..

. . . . F . . . .( . .=m#a>s&.E J. . . . . ' = ..P .se!>. Y .. .. zs .

. . . . . . r X %'. . . . . . .B.r . ' MKY.l. . . ' . . éi.' 'ZZ''.. - ... v . =. 1) =rà==- '. . . . .. nxmz#lh4:-

. : . . . = . . . . M . X =L yjp. 1. . . . . .iiùx

. . . . I a

j . ' . . . M . # . +. . . R 1œZ= @ . '. . . ' . f. I . u .. t - ' .e.. --. ! . . .:! sI==. - . ' IstgyIè11'=1lW.:, . & @ . . . . . x . . . :i . .s . F : . . . . =. . , . ikx . . . . .. di4 n. . us .u . . . . . < . . . y'r'y. =: . . . c . . i à: >

j . . . . - . = n .p t . ' ... JE

@ . .. j 1 dI . . : . . ' ' ' ' . . ;ï7Z'G.: . . $ . . n T ' 91 .2. > . . c #

'

w - .. . . .. . . . . .. . u) tupji.u' '% c . q . ' T . J . . . ' ' = à . =.Wz . : , . . à . . . . . gpm =.g <:.+:z r . .. . 1 . Rb. . .' . . '=.x. . f. . . . 1. < . r . : . .;N sti

- - -. r, - . . .. . . . .. . u ... ,, . ts - E, -

gakr. . . < . . . . . =. . vi y. iyd 1:.. 3

. . .> w-re.=. . J pji -

. o - a . ! sj . '; j. ... .z w. j. . -qç.

. . e ='W, . = . . qk.v/ qj. . . . p. . jj ijsj;p

. j. i . . ,Jmj gl. u. r .% . =.. . = Xi.H= ig. . =c . . . . .w .

Figure: Process ctllve (whitening of polyamide/cotton blend in a reductive

bleaching Iiquor)

. . c - fly % y :*ào: sgo Y xY 41Q Z 2 $ 1 * -'Gr. . . = . . s xsjjyjjzjjjjr.jjjk. yjqj.;ji tjjisq-jju yojjj jyy-yjyjsljji:jyyjratyyt ytyzyjjo.bijk ;jjjj;:r. . . uv. : .,. . : E -. :' 1trJ;-)jt.tlk.il:).s j)y717$l1fq!lyyj:;,j).'J rrj Slly! j,. .))j/j. gg.(j-'j(; i..j!!L-ï. jgu. '. jjj' ' .jj- . . -= . , .

'i>F.;,z,k'x.e.a..t.o.,x,'.1'.!,.r. .. . 4:.1 :.. .

Procedure -

Set the bath at room temperature with reducing agent, detergent and

brightener.

Raise the temperature to 95 - 100C and hold for 10 - 20 minutes.

3. Cool down the bath to 60C and drop.

Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively.

14.4 Dyeing of polyam ide/cotton blends

14.4.1 One-bath dyeing with acid/direct dyes

Polyamide/cotton blend (e.g. 50/50 PA/Co) adicles can be dyed with acid/directdyes in one dyeing bath - acid dyes for polyamide and direct dyes for cotton

.

Polyamide exhibits considerably higher strength than cotton and it is much stable

in the PH range of 4 - 10 below boiling point, but strong acids such as sulfuric or

formic acid may damage the sbers. Excessive higher drying temperatures, over

170C may Iead to yellowing effect in the fibers.

Typical recipe -Antifoaming agentReserving agentLubricating agent

Anticreasing agentAmmonium sulfate

Or,

Sodium acetate

Acetic acid

Acid dyes

SaltTemperature

TimeM .' L

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 2.0 - 4.0 g/l; (for Iight shade, pH range 6 -7)

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I',

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l; (for medium to deep shade, pH 5 - 6.5)= Y'%

= 0 - 20 g/l

= 95 - 100 OC= 45 - 60 min= 1 : 8 to 1 : 1 0

. w ,$g!.. s w. vstl<a-.v u . wzziaz.tytps . . .. . . . v .,=...r..= L. G 6 z. .1e..etJ%flw.. - -T. ot. ..mx...z.. n u . - s. . .r=. . . . . ..o .

' . .u..-,#..é. f.,-#-- . . . . ' , , ' .ix m . bt.t-. .

Figure: Process cl/lve (dyeing of polyamide/cotton with acid/direct dyes- one-bath

method)

Procedure -Set the bath at 40C with substrate and add antifoaming agent, and

anticreasing agent, lubricant or Ieveling agent, and reserving agent to

reserve PA against direct dyes.

2. Run for 5 minutes and then add buffering agent (ammonium sulfate or acetic

acid and sodium acetate) for maintaining the pH Ievel of 5.5 to 6.5, and run

for 5 - 10 minutes again. Maintaining suitable pl-l is very impodant for bathexhaustion - weakly alkaline PH may lead to poor exhaustion

, and maycreate stain on c10th.

Add acid dyes and direct dyes to the bath and run for 10 - 15 minutes.

Raise the bath temperature to 95 - 100 C @ 2 - 3c/minute, and add

glauber or common salt for direct dye exhaustion.

5. Run the bath at 95 - 100 C for 45 - 60 minutes.

6. Cool down the bath to 80C @ lc/min and hold it for 10 - 15 minutes.

7. Finally cool down and drop the bath.

8. Carry out the aftedreatment process.

Ane4reatment -

After successive hot and cold rinsing, treat the goods with -

Glauber salt = 5 g/I

Suitable fixing agent

for direct dyes = 0.5 - 2.0 g/1Temperature = 50 - 60 C

Time = 20 - 30 minutes

PH

M : L

2. Rinse again.

= 6.5- 7

= 1 .. 1 0

14.4.2 Two-bath dyeing with acid/reactive dyes

Typical recipe for cotton parl -

W etting agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/ISequestering agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IAntifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/ILevelling agent

Dyes (hot/cold brand) = X%Glauber salt

Or, common salt

Soda aSh

TemperatureTime '

PH

M:L

= Y g/l; (according to vender recommendation)= Z g/l', (according to vender recommendation)= 40 - 60*C (according to vendor recommendation)= 30 - 60 min

= 10.5 :i: 0.5

= 1 :5 - 1 :10

Typical recipe for polyamide pa4 -




Anticreasing agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Sodium acetate = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l',

Acetic acid = Y g/l', (for medium to deep shade, PH 4.5 - 6)Acid dyes = X%

Temperature = 100 OC

Time = 30 - 50 min

pH = 4.5 - 5

M : L = 1 : 8 to 1 : 1 0

E3 lht h1 -- II:1. Set the second bath with substrate at 40C.

2. Add wetting agent, Ieveling agent, and buffer (sodium acetate & acetic

acid) for maintaining PH 4.5 - 6.0.Run the bath for 10 minutes at same ternperature.

4. Add dyes and run for 10 minutes.

Raise the temperature to 100C @ 1 - 2 C/minute.8. Run the bath for 30 - 50 minutes.

Cool down the bath to 60C @ zc/minute.10. Drop the bath and carry on aqretreatment process.

Aftretreatment -1 . Rinse twice with hot and cold water successively.

If necessal the goods can be treated with a suitable fixing agent at

60-70 C for 15-20 min at 4-5 pH Ievel (with acetic acid) for improving

the colorfastness.

3. Rinse again to clean unexpected chemicals any more.


polyam ide/w ool blend goods

15.1 Scouring of polyam ide/wool blends

Actually. scouring is not very important for polyamide pad except of removable

added grease and other dirt. But the wool fiber has a considerable amount of

inherent impurities, and these impurities should be removed before dyeing -

higher amount of wool in blends require substantial scouring effect.

Lvpical recipe -W etting agent

Detergent

Soda ash

Ammonia

Temperature

Time

PH

M:L

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

= 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

= 0.5 - 1.0 Wl= 1.0 - 3.0 g/l

= 40 - 450C

= 15 - 20 min

= 9 + 0.5

= 1 : j c

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Figure.. Process ct/-/ (scouring of polyamideM ool blends)

Procedure -Set the bath at room temperature with wetting agent, detergent, soda ash

and ammonia depending upon the amount of wool component.

Raise the temperature to 40 - 50C.

3. Run the bath for 15 - 20 mintltes and then drop.

4. Rinse twice with warm and cold water.

16.2 Bleaching of polyam ide/wool blends

Hydrogen peroxide bleach is common method for bleaching of wool and

polyamide/wool blend. For garment dyeing, bleaching is done within a short time.

Fyp/cal rec/pe for combined scouring and bleaching (rapid bleachl:

W etting agent = 0,5 - 1.0 g/I



Fibre protective agent = 0.2 - 0.5 g/I


ammonia = 2 - 3 g/I

Hydrogen peroxide (35%) = 10 - 20 g/lTemperature = 70 - 80@C

Time = 15- 20 min

pH = 8.5 + 0.5

M :L = 1:10

Figure.. Process ctzrve (rapid bleachof polyamideM ool blends)

Procedure -1. Set the bath at room temperature with wetting agent, detergent, peroxide

stabilizer, ammonia or Sodium tripolyphosphate.

Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1 - zc/minute. Add hydrogen peroxide

at around 50C.3. After reaching the temperature to 80 - 85C hold the bath for 15 -20 minutes.

4. Rinse twice with hot (60C) and cold water successively.

16.3 Combined scouring and bleaching of polyamide/wool blends

Typical rec/ye for combined scouring and bleaching -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/I

Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/lStabilizer = 0.5 - 1.0 g/IFibre protective agent = 0.2 - 0.5 g/IAmmonia/sodium tripolyphosphate = 2.0 - 3.0 g/I

Hydrogen peroxide (350A) = 10 - 20 g/lTemperature = 80 - 90OC

Time = 20 - 30 min

PH

M : L

= 8.5 + 0.5

= 1 .. 1 0

Figure: Process ct/lve (rapid bleach of polyamideM ool blends)

Procedure -1. Set the bath at room temperature with wetting agent, detergent, peroxide

stabilizer, fiber protective agent, and ammonia or sodium tripolyphosphate.

2. Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1 - zc/minute. Add hydrogen peroxideat around 50C.

3. After reaching the temperature to 80 - 85C circulate the bath for 15 -20minutes'.

4. Drop the bath.

5. And then rinse twice with hot (60C) and cold water successively.

' . .,. vw . . .

15.4 Bleaching and whitening of polyamide/wool blends

Fypjca/ rec/pe for bleaching and brightening of polyamides ool blends -

Step - I (Bleachinn):




Fibre protective agent = 0.1 - 0.3 g/I

Hydrogen peroxide (350A) = 10 - 20 g/lSodium tripolyphosphate = 0.5 - 2.0 g/I


Time = 15 - 20 min

PH = 7.5- 8.5

M :L = 1 :1 0

Step - 11 (Brichteninq):

W etting agent

Detergent

Reducing agent

Brightener

Temperature

Time

pl-l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

= 2.0 - 4.0 g/I

= 0 . 5 - 2 .0 %

= 60 - 650C

= 15 - 20 min

= 9 à 0.5

Xl

Figure: process ctlme (bleaching and whitening of polyamides ool blends)

Procedure -1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent,

detergent, fiber protective agent, peroxide stabilizer and sodium

tripolyphosphate maintaining PH 7.5.

2. Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1- 2 C/minute, and add hydrogen

peroxide.After attaining the bath temperature to 80 - 85C hold it for 20 - 30 minutes.

4. Cool down the temperature to 60C and drop the bath.

5. Rinse twice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.6. Refill the bath for brightening

Add wetting agent, reducing agent and brightener.

8. Raise the temperature to 60C and hold for 15 - 20 minutes.

9. Cool down the bath temperature to 50C and drop.


15.5 Dyeing of polyam ideY ool blends with selective acid dyes

Typical recipe -

Antifoaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Reserving agent = 0.5 - 5.0 g/l

Lubricating agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Anticreasing agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Sodium acetate = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l;

Acetic acid = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l; (for medium to deep shade, PH 4.5 - 5)Dyes = X0â

Temperature = 95 - 100 @C

Time = 45 - 60 min

PH = 4.5- 5

M : L = 1 : 8 to 1 : 1 0

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..

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t . y . & y- J N

l Ure: rOCBSS CU e 0111 O O a l O 00 Ol1 S I 8C1 OS

Procedure -1. Set the bath at 40C with substrate and add antifoaming agent, and

anticreasing agent, Iubricant or Ieveling agent.Add reserving agent to retards the rate of dyeing and reduce the dye uptakecapacity of the pojyamide fiber in relation to the wool component. In pale

shade, the control of dye uptake is very impodant, and need more

concentration of reserving agent.

Run for 10 minutes and then add buffering agent (acetic acid and sodium

acetate) for maintaining the pi'l level of 4.5 to 5, and run for 5 - 10 minutesagain. Maintaining suitable PH is ve@ impodant for bath

exhaustion -weakly alkaline pH may lead to poor exhaustion

, and may create stain onc10th.

4. Add dyes to the bath and raise the bath temperature to 95 - 100 C @ 2 -

3c/minute.

5. Run the bath at 95 - 100 C for 45 - 60 minutes.6. Cool down the bath to 80C @ lc/min and hold it for 10 - 15 minutes.

Finally cool down and drop the bath.

8. Carry out the aftedreatment process.

Anertreatment -

After rinsing, treat the goods with -Glauber salt = 5 g/l

Stlitable fixing agent

for direct dyes= 0.5 - 2.0 g/lTemperature = 50 - 60 CTime = 20 - 30 minutes

pH = 6.5 - 7M : L = 1 : 1 0

2. Rinse again.


acl lic/cotton blend goods

16.1 Scouring of acrylic/cotton blendsThe acrylic/cotton blends are scoured at 80 - 900C in a fairly stronger alkaline

condition in order to achieve the necessary absorbency of the cotton essential

for the next processing. It should remember that acrylic fibers may yellow in an

alkaline condition at higher temperatures.

Fyp/ca/ reclpe for scouring -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/l

Detergent = 1 .0 - 2.0 g/I

Soda ash = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Caustic soda = (if necessafy)Temperature = 70 - 80OC (based on product type)

Time = 10 - 20 min

pH = 9 - 10

M : L = 1 : 1 0

Figure: Process ctzlve (scouring of acry//c/collon blends)

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature and add wetting agent,

detergent, and alkalis for maintaining PH 9 - 10.

2. Raise the temperature to 70 - 80C slowly.

3. After attaining the bath temperature to near about 80C hold and circulate for

10 - 20 minutes.

4. Cool down the temperature to 60 - 70 C and drop the bath.

Rinse twice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.5.

16.2 Bleaching of ace lic/cotton blends

A popular blend of acrylic/ cotton is 80% acrylic and 20% of cotton - necessarily

bleach the cotton part actually. Sodium chlorite bleaching is the best option for

both acrylic and cotton.

A) Typical sodium chlorite bleach œcfpe -W etting agent = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I


Sodium chlorite (80%) = 1.0 - 3.0 g/lFormic acid (80%) = 1.0 - 2.0 g/ISodium pyrophosphate = 0.4 - 1.0 g/l

Temperature = 85 - 950C (based on product type)Time = 30 - 60 min

PH = 3.5 - 4.5

M:L = 1 :10

Procedure -

Ias usual, ref. 4.3)

B) Typical hydrogen peroxide bleach œc/pe -(Recommended for less than 50% acrylic component)

W etting agent ' = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Detergent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/lPeroxide stabilizer = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Sodium silicate = 2.0 - 4.0 g/l

Soda ash = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I (not mandatory)Hydrogen peroxide (35%) = 5.0 - 10.0 g/ITemperature = 80 - 900C (based on produd type)

Time

pH

M : L

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J/ 1: 1 c . Apks ' ' . . ' Jp!-s ..u. . . -% . . . . ! !' 'B=w yj . 5 . u= . . . . u e. . . .>- ;k% . , z . IM ? < %. . . yr y . . aLs: ( $ 7 X' . * . ' ' ' . ' . . . ' ' l - tu . .$ #!u . . c .u . . . . . . ,k e.Fk . ,g ' . =.u Q . . . ' ' .. =ga;(;... !j J yz xijl . tl . Ay . . . . . - , = ' . . . . <. AF à 4!11 jly . . ;,s. ù?. . !iù4.6Ij):' ëp. ' s';'t. ' -- 1 rq w.,a . . . = . .'= . '. ' . A' . ' '. 'x zq.. .s(,. ..i . ! k g<.zzz zd.I t = . u > . ! . : .6r. ks.rls : j;hjq. .,p:f. . .1 yi R,, u!. x. zrllku,siï. 1k. K . . .: , . ' . .. : . . .. . . .. . . ! .- . pl ). . 9: Ik fls '';rky = ' ' ' r i4' ' '. l ë / f ' . dsûltdrlbz g%.''/: -',(.J - = .L5 @).jàl:jg(.y))s*'.1bJi1 ë d n . = . a.E s. .jg.jj;. ...4/I4y'7 . ; .= .' .. N it ..! $ z . . . .iifT' ' ' . j j ' 'aak-. w . , .a .k k u.hj(. .jp 1, . . . ..4.... s ) = p: g. = 6 . . .rq IL w:r . p : : . k. 5 J = . 1 . . ' . ' ' . . ' . ' ' ' 't, ' - ' / C 1Jj) F#T;ès yrl: !tT. .. KJyz. :<)k17' -2If,:4 'jjjl sjk z'kl ' q JjJ z .y = =r! Eë %ii.' ' irl ' ''u.l.s': JIIb = à. zu. Jl ' * . . ' .J ' . . . . . B . 'r . ! .è , 1..j yr;u.,u R.. .. î.,...$, ... ( : rkj. : j2':-.: Ju i j'.t(fèl!.1k . ,.. !;. $.Vy -..*-&> . 126 i!-'yèé ''k'.:ib ' .. ?1è '' , . ' 'X'' J ' ' ' . srht 4J a e J..' w- j . : ,j( :.. x . . iphue.ç àtq.' @q.s! d::.<- x i:-<' .v-' ' . . !. ' '<! 't ' '' -'. : . i . . . . l y ;j . Y. . . ( . r' . q J z . y . ! ;j ( . . : P.C VX. jj p ' Kq v & . ' ' . . 1 ' t . ' = . e ' .. . s . . % . k ..!t ' z ; -J( yt ' y . : F . ; . l I r . i zr ' 1 ë . . . . . . . u . < .i . . . . > &. . l . #k y ' $ ' . ' . 'x $ . & j a . . . > . ' . A J < . . . . . 1 . t ' ' c & . C ' r'J ' = f -.:1 r. e jr . l :j r4 . )' ! '' ' .. , l e. t k . . . k .t . &= . : . .. è.3E. . u ! . . - . L ' i .'z. 'p ..E % . ' >. 'f' œ / Vè'z@= Zïö'7' 6 . ' *''#. a'.jhtjG!tàl)''fgkJi.=ù3'' J)i ;'= t ' :; q .$ éjI...s ..mv çjjy.. jj.. eJ5 .:ltà(; :.é):z' .ajylugj'#le' fF Zvilf--frl f.'''#4'.3g1' j . ' ' . ' s .i . . ' ' 9 . 1 ' ' . .' 'jjjVqj ' . . '. ëJa . c'é j. f :1 g.rn. , . z.-vh'L rr s= z ' ! .js .!!? . ! ' . z:;. . g ju @> jja. j,K p.. < . : : d : . .: .. .ç)gy & c J.sîèis 1.'.j. u.' :(jjj. j. vK.. x é.i , (1 !? p'. j .6 Aiqky D.'L.)uf. n Jr il..g(>.,pJy.;4. jéhj.. é $:;f.' . . n.:. %. j.g . . . . . . g . . .k qy ( . : .. . . . j, ' jJ. '. . L v . . %i.uj. G%L.. jr ' '/. .1 .J 7 z #...'ëfk..a . . =1qqL@ kyEilfd 4ï y/' :17i!( !ù' vlt ojkl' . ! ry lréjl.%' ( il 4 cr r. :'yg: t..Ar 19. wx o .gi,. s j c 1, . r. r $?& . *f( J al .. ' 'J .é ws y-ow Fxkxlg. hc: .

Figure.. Process cu/ve (bleaching of ace/fcycofton blends with hydrogen

peroxide)

= 30 - 60 min

= neutral to mild alkaline

= 1 : 1 0

Procedure -


detergent, peroxide stabilizer, sodium silicate maintaining pH around 8.

(ti:$

2. Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1- 2 C/minute, and add hydrogenperoxide at around 50C.

3. After attaining the bath temperature to 80 - 85C circulate it for 30 - 45

minutes.



16.3 Bleaching and whitening acl lic/cotton blends

W hen cotton component is more than 50% then the acrylic/cotton blends is

suitable to bleach with hydrogen peroxide than chlorite bleach but this bleaching

should be done under mild alkaline condition at around 80@C because of alkali

sensitivity of acllic.

Typical reclye for bleachlhg and brightening -

Staqe - I tbriahteninn of cotton nad):


Detergent/Lubricant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Stabilizer = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Sodium silicate 38@ Be = 3.0 - 5.0 glb

Hydrogen peroxide (35%) = 5.0 - 8.0 g/lBrightener = 0.5 - 2.0 BA (not necessary only for bleaching)Temperature = 80 - 850C

Time = 30 - 45 min

pH (soda ash) = 8 + 0.5

Stane - 11 (brinhteni-nc of-acwlic padl'.


Detergent/Lubricant = 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

Brightener

Temperature

Time

PH (acetic acid)M :L

= 0.5 - 2.0 Yo

= 95 - 100@C

= 20 - 30 min

= 3 - 4

= 1 : 1 0

Procedure -Set the bath with substrate at room temperattlre and add wetting agent,

detergent, peroxide stabilizer, sodium silicate maintaining PH around 8.

Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1- 2 C/minute, and add hydrogenperoxide and brightening agent for cotton pad at around 50C.

3. After attaining the bath temperature to 80 - 85C hold it for 30 - 45 minutes.


5. Rinse twice with hot (around 60C) and cold water.6. Refill the bath for brightening of acrylic pad.7. Add wetting agent, lubricating agent and brightener for acllic pad.

8. Raise the temperature to 100C and hold for 20 - 40 minutes.

9. Cool down the bath temperature to 50 - 60C and drop.


16.4 Dyeing of ace lic/cotton blends16.4.1 One-bath G o-sl ge dyeing of acllic/cotton blend with baslcldirect

dyes

Typical rec/pe for acylic pa# -



Sodium acetate = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Acetic acid (80%)= 0.5 - 2.0 g/IRetarder = Yo/o

Basic dyes = X%Temperature = 95 - 105CTime = 40 - 80 min (for Iight shade need Iess time)pH = 4.5- 5M:L = 1: 10

Typical rec//e for cotton pa# -Direct dyes = X%

Glauber/common salt = 5.0 - 20.0 g/ITemperature = 85 :k 5 SC

Time = 30 - 60 min

M : L = 1 : 1 0

bath two-stage method)

Procedure -1. Set the dyebath with substrate at 50 - 60C and add bath auxiliaries.

2. Add sodium acetate and acetic acid for maintaining pH 4.5 - 5. Then add

retarder, and run for 5 - 10 minutes.

3. Add basic dyes according to recipe.

4. Raise the temperature to 70 - 80C @ zc/minute.5. Raise the temperature again from 70 - 80C to 95 - 105C @ 0.5 -

O.7c/mintlte and rtln for 40 - 80 minute according to the depth of shade.

Add predetermined direct dyes in the bath and cool down the bath

temperature to 80 - 85C @ lc/minute, and add Iittle bit alkalis to achieve

neutral pH.6. Run the bath at 85C for 10 minutes and add one-tenth (1/10) amotlnt of

glauber salt.7. Add rest of glauber salt step by step with duration of 5 - 10 minutes.

8. After adding the Iast salt podion rtln the bath for 15 - 20 minutes.

9. Cool down the bath to 60C and then drop.

10. Carry on aftedreatment process with suitable sxing agent.

Note: One-bath one-stage dyeing forpale shade 9 possible for b0th component of blend as the

same manner.

16.4.2 Two-bath two-stage dyeing of acc lic/cotton blend with

basic/reactive dyes

Typical recipe for acplic pa2 -




Sodium acetate = 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Acetic acid (80B/o) = 0.5 - 2.0 g/lBasic dyes = X%


Time = 40 - 80 min (for Iight shade need Iess time)PH = 4.5- 5

M '.L = 1 : 1 0

Typical recipe for coflon pa4 -




Reactive dyes = X%

Glauber salt

Or, common salt = Y g/l; (according to vender recommendation)Soda ash = Z g/I; (according to vender recommendation)Temperature = 50 - 60*C (according to vendor recommendation)Time = 30 - 50 min

pl-l = 10.5 i 0.5

M :L = 1 :1 0

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igu : process cu e dyein of ac li co#on blends - o-bath stage

method)

Procedure -

Bath - I (fo-r acrvlic dveinn):Set the dyebath with substrate at 60 - 70@C temperature and add Ieveling

agent, sodium acetate, acetic (if necessary ammonium sulfate) to achieve

4.5 - 5 pH.

2. Add retarder and other necessaw auxiliaries', then run the dyebath for 5 -

10 minutes.

Add (dosing) dye solution of basic dyes at 70@ C and raise the temperatureto 80OC @ 0.3 - 0.6* C/min.

3. Raise the temperature from 80@C to 90@C @ 0.1 - 0.5 C/minute.4. Raise the temperature to 98*C @ 0.3 - o.6@c/minute.5. Run the bath for 10 - 30 minutes at the same temperature

.

6. Lower down (cooling) the bath temperature to 80B C @ z*c/minute and from80@C to 40*C @ z*c/minute.Drop the bath and carry on cotton dyeing

.

Bath - 11 (for cotton dveinc):1. Set the bath with substrate at 40*C anfadd bath auxiliaries

.

2. Add reactive dyes and run for 10 minutes.

3. Add half amount of glauber salt and run for 10 minutes.

4. Add rest half amount of glauber salt and run for 10 minutes.

5. Add half amount of soda ash and run for 10 minutes.

6. Add rest half amount of soda ash and raise the temperature to 60@C @ 0.5 -

1.0 *CI minute.7. Run the bath for 40 - 60 minutes at 60*C

.

8. Drop the bath and carry on the aftedreatment process

Anretreatment pm cess -To improve colorfastness

, proper washing and cleaning is very important toremove aII unfixed dyes. The final aftedreament process is done as belowmentioned recipe or according to vender commendgtions:1. Rinse once with cold water, and then2. Treat the fabric with -

W ashing agent = 1 - 3 g/ISoda ash = 1 - 2 g/Iat 70 - 80@ C for 15 - 30 minutes.Rinse again as required.3.


acl lic/w oolblend goods

17.1 Scouring of acelic/wool blends

Although scouring is not mandatory for acrylic component but wool contains

significant amount of natural impurities. W hen wool pad is higher than acrylic in

blends, then it need good scouring. W ool is very sensitive to alkalis - thus, it

need more care about the bath pH. Usually, acllic/wool goods are scoured in

weakly alkaline condition at around 60C.



Soda ash = 0.3 - 1.0 g/I

Ammonia = 1.0 - 2.0 g/I

Temperature

Time

PH

M : L

= 58 - 60 OC (based on product type)= 15 - 30 min

= 8 - 9

= 1 ..1 o

Procedure -

1. Set the bath with substrate at room temperature with wetting agent,sequestering agent, and detergent.

2. Add alkalis to produce a mild alkaline scotlr solution of pH 8 - 9.

3. Raise the temperature to 58 - 60C @ 1 - zc/minute.


5. Drop the bath.

6'. Rinse twice with hot (around 50C) and cold water.

17.2 Bleachlng of ace lic- ool blends

Isame as wool bleaching, ref. 7.2)

17.3 Combined scouring and bleachlng of acllic/wool blends

Typical recipe -

W etting agent

Detergent

Peroxide stabilizer


Ammonia/soda ash = 0.5 - 3 g/I

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

= 1.0 - 2.0 g/l

= 0.5 - 1.0 g/l

Hydrogen peroxide (35%) = 5.0 - 10.0 g/ITemperature = 70 - 80@C

Time = 15 - 30 min

pl-l = 8.0 + 0.5

M:L = 1 :1 0

Figuœ:Pmcess cuke (combined scounbg and bleaching of ac@//c/ wool blends)

Pmcedtzre -


stabilizer. Sodium tripolyphosphate or soda ash.

2. Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1 - zc/minute. Add hydrogenperoxide at afound 50C.

Aqer reaching the temperature to 80 - 85C hold the bath for 15 - 30 minutes.


5. Rinse twice with hot (60C) and cold water successively.

17.4 Bleaching and whitening of acllic/wool blends

Typical recipe -



Peroxide stabilizer = 0.5 - 1.0 g/lSodium tripolyphosphate/

Ammonia/soda ash = 0.5 - 3 g/I

Hydrogen peroxide (35%) = 10.0 - 15.0 g/IReducing agent = 2.0 - 3.0 g/l

W hitening agent = X %

Acetic acid = 0.5 - 2.0 g/I

Temperature = 70 - 80@C

Time = 15- 30 min

PH = 7.5 - 8.0

M:L = 1:10

Procedup -


stabilizer, Sodium tripolyphosphate or soda ash.

2. Raise the temperature to 80 - 85C @ 1 - zc/minute. Add hydrogenperoxide at around 50C.

3. After reaching the temperature to 80 - 85C hold the bath for 15 - 20 minutes.


5. Rinse twice with hot (60C) and cold water successively.6. Set the bath again with reducing agent and suitable optical brightening

agent.7. Raise the temperature to 50C, and hold it for 10 - 20 minutes.

8. Add acetic acid for maintaining pH around 3.5.9. Raise the bath temperature to 95 - 100C over 10 - 20 minutes.

10. Run the bath for 10 minutes.

11. Cool down the temperature to 60C, and then drop.12. Rinse twice with hot and cold water again.

17.5 Dyeing of acrylic/wool blends

17.5.1 One-bath one-stage dyeing of acrylic/wool blends with basic/acid

dyesThis method is suitable for Iight to medium shade.

Typical reclpe -W etting agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/ILevelling agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/lSequestering agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IAntiprecipitant = 0.5 - 1.0 g/lSodium acetate = 0.5 - 1 .0 g/I

Acetic acid (80B/o) = 0.5 - 2.0 g/lBasic dyes = X%

Acid dyesTemperatureTime

PHM :L

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Figure: Process cutue (one-bath one-stage dyeing of acrylicM ool blends)

= Y%= 80 - 100C= 40 - 70 min= 4.5- 5

= 1 : 1 0

Procedure -1. Set the bath with substrate at 40C and add bath auxiliaries.2. Add a suitable antiprecipitant to avoid precipitation due to use of cationic

and anionic dyes in same bath.3. Add buffering agent (sodium acetate and acetic acid) to achieve PH 4.5 - 5,

and run for 5 minutes.4. Add basic dyes and acid dyes successively.

5. Raise the temperature to 80C @ 1 - zc/minute.6. Raise the temperature from 80C to 98C @ 0.5 - O.8c/minute and run for 40

- 70 minutes.7. Add acetic/formic acid to adjust pi-l 3.5 - 4 and run the bath for 10 minutes.8. Cool down the bath to 80C @ lc/minute.9. Cool down the bath from 80C to 50C @ zc/minute.10. Drop the bath and carry on aftedreatment process.

17.5.2 One-bath two-stages dyeing of ace lic! wool blends with basic/acid

dyesIn this method, the wool part is dyed first with acid dyes, and then dye the acrylicpad with basic dyes. This method is suitable for medium to deep shade.

Typical rec//e -W etting agent = 0.1 - 0.5 g/ILevelling agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/ISequestering agent = 1.0 - 2.0 g/IAntiprecipitant = 0.5 - 1.0 g/ISodium acetate = 0.5 - 1.0 g/1

Acetic acid (800â) = 0.5 - 2.0 g/lGlauber salt = 5.0 - 10.0 g/l

Acid dyesBasic dyes

TemperatureTimePH

M : L

= X%= Y%= 80 - 100C= 40 - 70 min= 4.5 - 5.5= 1 : j 0

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Flnure: Process ctzrve (dyeing of acêy//e wool blends - one-bath two-stages)

Procedure -1. Set the bath with substrate at 40C and add bath auxiliaries.

2. Add a suitable antiprecipitant to avoid precipitation due to use of cationic

and anionic dyes in same bath.

3. Add sodium acetate and acetic acid to achieve PH 4.5 - 5, and run for 5

minutes.

4. Add acid dyes first for wool component.

5. Raise the temperature to 80C @ 1 - zc/minute and run for 15 - 30 minutes.For higher depth need more time and higher temperature.

6. After exhaustion of acid dyes, add basic dyes and adjust PH 4.5 - 5 byadding acetic or formic acid.


8. Raise the bath temperature to 95 - 100C @ 0.5 - O.8c/minute.9. Run the bath for 60 - 90 minutes at 95 - 100C temperature.

10. Add acetic/formic acid to adjust PH 3.5 - 4, and then run for 10 minutes.

11. Cool down the bath to 80C @ lc/minute.12. Cool down the bath from 80C to 50C @ zc/minute.13. Drop the bath and carry on the aqertreatment process.

3

18 Dyeing ofacl lic/polyam ide

blend goods

Although the fabrics made from acfylic/polyamide blends have a wool-like hand,

but the tensile properties are better than 100% wool. Such blends can be dyed

to give strongly contrasting effects, union shades or reverse effects because the

two fibers contain opposite ionic nature, and the dyes for one type of sbers are

not substantive and incompatible to the other one. If they are to be dyed in a

rapid one-bath, one-stage method they require a suitable compatibilizer

otherwise the basic and acid dyes, used for acrylic and polyamide fibers will

react each other and form insoluble cation/anion complex salt. The used

compatibilizer acts as antiprecipitant the dyes in dyebath.

18.1 One-bath one-stage dyeing of ace lic/polyamide blends with

basic/acid dyes

This method is suitable for light to medium depth of shade. Cationic basic dyes

are used for acfylic pad and anionic acid dyes are used for polyamide part. Thebasic and acid dyes should be added separately, one of them with an

appropriate antiprecipitant, at about 40C. The temperature should be raised to

80 - 85 C, and the majority of acid dyes will be exhausted within 15 - 30minutes. After that the temperature is raised slowly through the next 15 - 20C to

ensure Ievel dyeing of acrylic part, and rune the bath at boil for 60 - 90 minutes.

Then the bath cool down slowly to 70 - 80C before drop. W orking recipe and

procedure are same to one-bath one-stage dyeing of acrylic/wool with basic/acid

dyes, previously described (17.5), but exception is here there is no finaltreatment with acetic/formic acid at 95 - 100C.

18.2 One-bath two-stage dyeing of acrylic/polyamide blends with

basic/acid dyes

ln this method the acrylic part is dyed with basic dyes as normal way describe

before. Then the polyamide part is dyed with acid dyes in a separate bath. This

method is suitable for medium to deep shade confirming good fastness, but

problem is the risk of complex formation and precipitation of one dye by the other

one. lt's a time consuming process. W orking recipe and procedure are same to

one-bath two-stages dyeing of acrylic/wool with basic/acid dyes, previously

described (17.6). But exception is here there is no final treatment withacetic/formic acid at 95 - 100C.

Dyeing glossaœ

Absorbency: The ability of one material to take up another material.Absorption: The process of gases or Iiquids being taken up into the pores of a

fiber, yarn, or fabric.

Acetic acid: An organic acid (CHaCOOH) widely used in textile applications. lt isused in textile wet processing, dyeing and printing, and in the manufacture of

cellulose acetate and cellulose triacetate.

Acetic anhydride: Anhydrous acetic acid I(CHaCO)zO). It is used in theacetylation process in the manufacture of cellulose acetate.

Acetone: Dimethyl ketone (CHaCOCHa). One of the most powerful organicsolvents. Acetone dissolves secondary cellulose acetate and other derivatives of

cellulose. It is miscible with water and has a low boiling point (55-56@C).protein,Acid dyes: an anionic dye having substantivity for fibers (e.g.

polyamide) which contain cationic groups usually in acidic or neutral aqueousdyebaths. Acid dyes are oqen applied to fabric in organic or inorganic acid

dyeing solution.

Acid-dyeable variants: Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive

to acid dyes.

Acidic: A term describing a material having a pl-l of Iess than 7.0 in water.

Activated oxygen bleach: A bleaching system comprising an oxygen bleachand a bleach activator.

Adde n: the amount of material applied to a textile is known add-on; it is

calculated as the weight of solids left on a given weight of fabric after

impregnation and drying. The percentage add-on is computed by the formula

((w2-w1)x100)+ wl', where wj is the initial weight of material before impregnation(wet-out), and w2 is the weight of material after impregnation and drying. The use

of the terms pick-up and wet pick-up to denote the weight of solids taken up by a

fabric is to be deprecated.Additive: A supplementary material combined with a base material to provide

special

propedies. For example, pigments are used as additives to give color in mass

dyeing, weighting agents are used for increasing the weight of textiles.

Adsorption: The attraction of gases, liquids, or solids to sudace areas of textile

fibers, yarns, fabrics, or any material. Absorption diFers from adsorption in that

the absorbed substance permeates the bulk of the absorbing substance.

Aerobic: A biological process active only in the presence of oxygen.

Alinity: 1. Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to

unite or Combine together, such as fiber and dyestuff. 2. the quantitative

expression of substantivity. Affinity is usually expressed in units of joules (or

calories) per mole.ARedreatment: Any treatment done aqer fabric production. ln dyeing, it refers to

treating dyed material in ways to improve propedies; in nonwovens, it refers to

finishing processes carried out after a web has been formed and bonded.

Examples are embossing, creping, soqening, printing, and dyeing.

Alkaline: A term used to describe a material having a pH greater than 7.0 in

water.

Anaerobic: A biological process active only in the absence of free oxygen.

Aniline dyes: Dyes derived chemically from aniline or other coal tar derivatives.

Anionic dye: a dye dissociates in aqueous dyebath and provide negatively

charged colored ion.Anthraquinone dyes: Dyes that have anthraquinone as their base and the

carbonyl group (>C=O) as the chromophore. Anthraquinone-based dyes arefound in most of the synthetic dye classes.

Antichlor: A chemical, such as sodium thiosulfate, used to remove excesschlorine after bleaching.

Azo dyes: Dyes characterized by the presence of an azo group (-N=N-) as thechromophore. Azo dyes are found in many of the synthetic dye classes

.

Azoic dyes: 1. An insoluble azo compound developed, in .Wf&, on a substrate by

chemically reacting an azoic diazo component (diazotized amine) with an azoiccoupling component. 2. the dyes, produced by interaction of a diazotized amine

(azoic diazo component) and a coupling component (azoic coupling component).

Bacterial Amylase Unit (BAU): A measure of starch degradation as shown bythe quantity'of an enzyme that will dextrinize one milligrani of starch per minuteunder the specised experimental conditions

.

Basic dyes: A class of positive-ion-carling dyes known for their brilliant hues.

Basic dyes are composed of large-molecule, water-soluble salts that have a

direct affinity for wool and silk and can be applied to cotton with a mordant. The

fastness of basic dyes on these fibers is very poor. Basic dyes are also used on

basic-dyeable acrylics, modacrylics, nylons, and polyesters, on which theyexhibit reasonably good fastness.Batch: A group of units of products of the same type

, structure, colour andfinish, class and composition

, manufactured under essentially the sameconditions and essentially at the same time

, and submitted at any one time forinspection and testing. Similar word 'Lot''.

Bath ratio: Ratio of bath to fibre as 20:1, 10:1or 1:20, 1:10

Binder: An adhesive applied in pigment application to make a bond betw een

fibres and pigmnet.Bleaching: A process of whitening fibers

, yarns, ornatural and adificial impurities to obtain clear whites

fabrics by removing the

for snished fabric, or in

preparation for dyeing and finishing. The materials may be treated with

chemicals or exposed to sun, air, and moisture.

Carbonizing: A chemical process for eliminating cellulosic material from,

synthetic and wool or other animal fibers. The material is reacted with sulfuric

acid or hydrogen chloride gas followed by heating. Y en the material is dry, the

carbonized cellulose material is dust-like and can be removed.

Carrier: 1. A product added to a dyebath to promote the dyeing of hydrophobic

manufactured fibers and characterized by alnity for, and ability to swell, the

fiber. 2. A moving holder for a package of yarn used on a braiding machine. 3. A

term sometimes used to describe the tube or bobbin on which yarn is wound.

Cation: A positively charged ion.

Cationic dyes: A dye that dissociates in an acidised, aqueous solution to give a

positively charged colored ion.

Caustic soda: The common name for sodium hydroxide (NaOH).Chrome dye: A mordant dye capable of forming a chelate complex with a

chromium ion.

CIE: Commission lnternationale de I'Eclairage.

CMC: Carboxymethyl cellulose. Synthetic size used in cotton fabric processing.

CMC unit: In color difference evaluation, a measure of acceptability expressed

in terms of the boundary for the CMC acceptability ellipsoid of LEcmc = 1.0.

CMC is an acronym for the Colour Measurement Committee (of the Society of

Dyers and Colourists) which was Iargely responsible for the development of the

CMC ( :c) equation.Colorant: A colouring matter, a dye or pigment which can produce colour in a

substrate like fibre, yarn or fabric.

Coloration: A series cf textile operation involved to impart color in textiles. lt

embraces dyeing, printing, painting, spraying and preparatol treatment as well.

Colour: 1. (sensation) that characteristic of the visual sensation which enablesthe eye to distinguish differences in its quality, such as may be caused bydifferences in spatial distribution or fluctuation with time. 2. (of an objed) theparticular visual sensation (as defined above) caused by the Iight emitted by,transmitted through, or reflected from the object. Colour can be describedapproximately in tefms of Hue, Saturation, and Lightness, or specifiednumerically by chromaticity coordinates, e.g. those defined by the CIE standard

obsewer data (1931). Altematively, colour can be specified by reference tovisual standards e.g. the Munsell Color Atlas.

Colodastness: Resistance to fading', i.e., the prope* of a dye to retain its colorwhen the dyed (or printed) textile material is exposed to conditions or agentssuch as Iight, perspiration, atmospheric gases, or washing that can remove ordestroy the color. A dye may be reasonably fast to one agent and only

moderately fast to another. Degree of fastness of color is tested by standard

procedures. Textile materials often must meet'certain fastness specifications for

a padicular use.

Color strength: A measure of the ability of a dye to impart color to other

materials. Color strength is evaluated by Iight absorption in the visible region of

the spectrum.

Colorist: In textile coloration, a person experienced in developing color

formulas, evaluating samples for color and producing colored samples to meet

standards.

Colour index (CI): A Iisting of dyes and chemical structures published by theSociety of Dyers and Colourists. Each structure is assigned a name according to

chemical composition. Each dye is assigned a number according to its class and

shade. A correlating strudure number is given when available.

Compatibility: In textile dyeing, propensity of individual dye components in a

combination shade to exhaust at similar rates resulting in a buildup of shade that

is constant, or nearly constant, in hue throughout the dyeing process.

Copper chelation value (CuCV): The milligrams of copper sulfate pentahydratechelated by one gram of a chelating agent or produd containing a chelating agent.Cross dyeing: A process of dyeing textiles containing fibers having different dye

amnities to achieve a multicolored effect.Desizing: The process removal of size materials from greige (gray) fabric to

prepare for dyeing.Dip: Immersion of a textile material in some processing Iiquid. The term is

usually tlsed in connection with a padding or slashing process.Direct dyes: A class of dyestu#s that are applied directly to the substrate in a

neutral or alkaline bath. They produce full shades on cotton and Iinen without

mordanting and can also be applied to rayon, silk, and wool. Direct dyes give

bright shades but exhibit poor washfastness. Various aAedreatments are used to

improve the washfastness of direct dyes, and such dyes are referred to as

''aqertreated direct colors.''Disperse dyes: A class of water-insoluble or slightly soluble dyes originally

introduced for dyeing cellulose acetate and usually applied from fine aqueous

suspensions. Disperse dyes are widely tlsed for dyeing most of the

manufactured fibers.Dyes/dyestul: Substances that add color to textiles. They are incorporated into

the sber by chemical reaction, absorption, or dispersion. Dyes difer in their

resistance to sunlight, perspiration, washing, gas, alkalies, and other agents;

their affinity for different fibers; their readion to cleaning agents and methods',

and their solubility and method of application. In the broad sense, dyes may be

divided into natural and synthetic types. Natural dyes are extracted from rootbark, flowers and marine groM h. Synthetic dyes are chemically compounded

through many processes from coal tar or other sources of hydrocarbon

molecules. On basis of application it is classified as Acid dye, Azoic dye, Basic

dye, Direct dye, Disperse dye, Mordant dye, Reactive dye, Sulphur dye, Vat dye

etc. Fluorescent whitening agent is also a dye.

Dyeing: A process of coloring hbers, yarns, fabrics or garments with eithernatural or synthetic dyes under specified conditions.

Dyeing auxiliaries: Various substances that can be added to the dyebath to aid

dyeing. They may necessary to transfer the dye from the bath to the fiber or they

may provide improvements in Ieveling, penetration, etc. Also call dyeing

assistants.

Dye Iiquor: The liquid that contains the dye and the reagents necessary for

dyeing.

Ecm c: ln color difference evaltlation, a single number defining the total colordifference in CMC units of a trial from a standard

.

Em ulsion: A éuspension of finely divided Iiquid droplets in a second liquid, i.e.,

oiI in water or vice versa.

Exhaustion: During wet processing, the ratio at any time between the amount of

dye or substance taken up by the substrate and the amount originally available.

Expression: pickup

Fixation: The process of setting a dye after dyeing of printing, usually by

steaming or other heat treatment.

Fluorescent: A substance that is added to a textile (uncoloured or coloured) toincrease the apparent Iight reflectance in the visible region by the conversion of

ultraviolet radiation into visible Iight and so to increase the apparent brightness

or whiteness of the textile. Similar words brightener.

Fluorescent whitening agent (FWA): Colorant that absorbs near ultraviolet(UV) radiation and re-emits visible (violet- blue) radiation. This causes ayellowish material to which it has been applied to appear whiter

.

Foam: Dispersion of gas in a Iiquid or solid. The gas bubbles may be any size.

The term covers a wide range of useful products such as insulating foam,

cushions, etc. lt also describes the undesirable froth in polymer melts, dyebaths, etc.

Hue: The attribute of color perception by means of which an object is judged tobe red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet or a combination of these.

Hydrolysis: A double decomposition reaction involving the addition of the

elements of water and the formation of an acid and a base, an acid and an

alcohol, or an acid and phenol.

Hydrophilic: Having strong affinity for or the ability to absorb water.

Hydrophobic: Lacking affinity for or the ability to absorb water.

Indigo: Originally, a natural blue vat dye etracted from plants, especially the

lndigofera tinctoria plant. Most indigo dyes today are synthetic. They are

frequently used on dungarees and denims.

Ingrain dye: A colorant, which is formed, in situ, in the substrate by the

development and coupling of one or more intermediate compounds. The term

was originally used for colorants obtained from oxidation bases and by azoic

techniques, but is now reserved for other types of colorant formed in situ.

Inhibitor: A substance that retards or prevents a chemical or physical change. In

textiles, a chemical agent that is added to prevent fading, degradation, or other

undesirable effects.

Isoelectric: Same charge in a certain condition. W hen positive and negative

charges are equal. The isoelectric point is PH value at which the' molecule

carries no electrical charge or the negative and positive charges are equal.

Isotherm : Constant temperature line used on graphs of climatic conditions or

thermodynamic relations, such as pressure-volume relations at constant

temperature.

Jet dyeing m achine: A high-temperattlre piecedyeing machine that circulates

the dye liquor through a Venturi jet, thus imparting a driving force to move thefabric. The fabric, in fope form, is sewn together to form a Ioop

.

Kier: A large metal tank, capable of being heated uniformly, used for wet

processing.

Kier boiling: Process of boiling cellulosic materials in alkaline Iiquors in a kier at

or above atmospheric pressure.

Laboratoe sample: A portion of material taken to represent the Iot sample, orthe original material

, and used in the Iaboratory as a source of test specimens.

Leuco dye: A soluble, reduced fofm of a dye from which the original dye may be

regenerated by oxidation.

Liquor ratio: ln wet processing the ratio of the weight of liquid used to the

weight of goods treated.

Lot: A unit of .production or a group of other units or packages that is taken for

sampling or statistical examination, having one or more common properties and

being readily separable from other similar units.

Metaleom plex dye; A dye having a coordinated metal atom in its molecule.

Unless the term metal-complex dye is used in direct association with a padicularapplication class of dye, e.g., metal-complex disperse dye or metalcomplexreactive dye, its use is inexact and inadvisable

.

Migration: 1. Movement of an added substance (e.g. dye or alkali) from one

area of teziles to another. Commonly used to express the movement of colorfrom the dyed area to the undyed area of c10th

. 2. Movement of sbers which gofrom the center to the outside surface of yarn and back again periodically.Mock Dyeing: A heat stabilization process for yarns

. The yarns are wound ontopackages and subjected to package dyeing conditions (water

, pressure,temperature) but without dye an chemicals in the bath

.

Mordant: 1. A chemical used in some textile fibers to provide amnity for dyes. 2.

a substance, usually a metallic compound, applied to a substrate to form with a

dye a complex which is retained by the substrate more firmly than the dye itself.

Mordant dye: A dye that is fixed with a suitable mordant.Optical Brightener: 1. A colorless compounds that, when applied to fabric,

absorbs the ultraviolet radiation in Iight but emits radiation in the visible

spedrum. 2. Fluorescent materials added to polymer in manufactured sber

production that emit Iight in the visible spedrum, usually with a blue cast.

OW B: On the Weight of bath.

OW F: On the weight of fabriY bre.

OW G: On the weight of goods

O> : On the weight of volume.Pad: A machine for impregnating fabrics with chemicals. It consists essentially of

a trough followed by two or more pairs of squeeze rolls.

pH: Value indicating the acidity or alkalini: of a material. It is the negativeIogarithm of the effective hydrogen ion concentration. A pH of 7.0 is neutral; less

than 7.0 is acidic; and more than 7.0 is basic.

Pick-up: % or weight added per unit weight of fabricPigment: An insoluble, finely divided substance, such as titanium dioxide, used

to deluster or color sbers, yarns, or fabrics.Premetallized acld dye: An acid dye manufactured by reacting an equivalent of

a suitable metal ic n vaith one equivalent of a dye (1:1 premetallized acid dye), orwith Go equivalents of the same or di#erent dyes (1:2 premetallized acid dyes),

capable of chelating the metal.Preparation: ln textile manufacturing, those procesqing operations performed ongreige fabric, colored fabric, textile yarns or fibers to ready them for dyeing,

printing or finishing. For example, typical greige cotton fabric prepàrationincludes singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching and (optionally) mercerizing.Reactive dye: A dye that

, under suitable conditions, is capable of reactingchemically with a substrate to form a covalent dye-substrate Iinkage

.

Reduction clearing (RC): The removal of unabsorbed disperse dye from thesurface of polyester at the end of the dyeing or printing process by treatment in a

sodium hydroxide/sodium hydrosulste bath. A surface-adive agent may beemployed in the process.

Retarder (Retardants): A chemical that, when added to the dyebath, decreases

the rate of dyeing but does not afect the final exhaustion.

Saponification: Specifically in relation to manufactured fibers, saponiscation is

the process of removing part or aIl of the groups from acetate or triacetate fiber,

Ieaving regenerated cellulose.

Saturation: 1k The maximum intensity or purity of a color. If the color is as

brilliant as possible, it is at saturation; if the color is subdued or grayed, it is dull,

weak, and Iow in intensity. 2. The upper limit concentration of a solute in a

solvent, i.e., no more solute can be dissolved at a sxed temperature and

pressure.

Scouring: ln textile processing, treatment of textile materials in aqueous or othersolutions to remove nature fats, waxes, proteins and other constituents as wellas dirt, oiI and other impurities.

Shade: 1 . A common term Ioosely used to describe broadly a padicular colour or

depth, e.g. pale shade, 2% shade, mode shade, fashion shade. 2. To bringabout, in dyeing, relatively small modiscations in the colour of a stlbstrate by

adding further small amounts of dye, especially with the object of obtaining a

more accurate match with a required pattern or colour.

Shading: In colored textile fabrics, gradual changes in hue, chroma and/or

Iightness Iengthwise or widthwise. M en unintended, shading is considered a

defect; may be intentional for styling purposes.Sizing: 1. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind

the fiber together and stilen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during

weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and manufadured polymers such as polyvinyl

alcohol, polystyrene, polyacllic acid, and polyacetates are employed. 2. The

process of applying sizing compounds. 3. The process of weighing sample

Iengths of yarn to determine the count.SoRener: 1. A product designed to impart a soq mellowness to the fabric.

Examples are glucose, glycerine, tallow, or any one of a number of quaternary

ammonium compounds. 2. A substance that reduces the hardness of water by

removing or sequestering the calcium and magnesium ions. 3. A substance used

to reduce friction during mixing and processing when dry powders'are added to

polymers.Solubilized sulfur dye: A thiosulfuric acid derivative of a sulfur dye which during

dyeing is converted to the substantive alkali-soluble thiol form.

Solubilized vat dye: A water-soluble salt of the sulfuric ester of a Ieuco vat dye.

After application to the fiber the parent vat dye is regenerated by hydrolysis and

oxidation.Solvent dye: A dye which is solgble in organic solvents, but not in water, and is

widely used in Iacquers, inks, waxes, plastics, soaps, cosmetics, fuels and

colored smokes.Souring: Any treatment of textite materials in dilute acid. Its purpose is the

neutralization of any alkali that is present.

Substantivity: The attraction, under the precise conditions of test, between a

substrate and a dye (or other substance) where the latter is selectively extractedfrom the application medium by the substrate.

Substrate: 1. ln textiles, a fiber, fiber assembly, yam , fabric, or garment to

which another material is applied. 2. Fabric to which coatings or other fabrics are

applied. It can be of woven, knit, nonwoven, or weA-insedion constructior'.

Generally, substrate propedies are dependent bolh on fiber type and fabric

construction. Usually the fabric is scoured, heat-set, and otherwise snished priorto coating or bonding. Many smooth-surfaced manufactured fiber fabrics require

impregnation with a Iatex prior to coating to ensure adequate adhesion.

Sulfur dye: A dye, containing sulfur both as an integral pad of the chromophore

and in attached polysulfide chains, normally applied in the alkali-soluble reduced

(Ieuco) form from a sodium sulsde solution and subsequently oxidized to theinsoluble form in the sber.

Uneven dyeing: A fabric dyeing that shows variations in shade resulting from

incorrect processing or dyeing methods or from use of faulty materials.

Union dyeing: A process of dyeing textiles containing sbers having di#erent dye

amnities to achieve the appearance of a uniform, homogenous color. (see alsocross dyeing.t.Unlevelness: In textile dyeing and finishing, nonuniform distribution of a dye or

chemical in or on a substrate.

Vat Dyes: A water-insoluble dye, usually containing keto groups, which is

normally applied to the sber from an alkaline aqueous solution of the reduced

enol (Ieuco) form which is subsequently oxidized in the fiber to the insoluble/form

.

W et pick-up: In textile processing, the amount of Iiquid, and material carried by

the Iiquid, applied to a textile. W et pick-up is usually determined as a percentage

of either the dry or conditioned weight of the textile prior to processing.

W et processing: ln textile manufacturing, a colledive term for processesincluded in preparation, dyeing, printing and finishing in which the textile material

is treated with a Iiquid, normally water, or with chemicals in solution or dispersion

in a liquid.Whiteness: The attribute by which an object color is judged to approach a

preferred whiteW inch: A machine for scouring, bleaching, dyeing etc., goods while in the form

of a rope or endless belt. A roller gradually moves the c10th through the bath in a

slack condition.

1. Edward S. Olson, Textile W et Processes, Voltlme 1, Preparation of Fibres

and Fabrics

2. Yahia Farook, Textile Dyeing & Printing Technology (1997)3. J. Gordon Cook, Handbook of Textile Fibres

, Natural Fibres4. hdp:/- .answers.com/topic/reactive-dye - 17/02/2009

5. A.H. Little, W ater Supplies and the Treatment and Disposal of Eluents

6. h/p://openlearn.open.ac.uWmod/resource/view.php?id=z8g64l -

18/02/2009

7. J. Rordon Cook, Handbook of Textile Fibres, Man-made Fibres8. AATCC Garment W et Processing Technical Mantlal

9. E. R. Trotman, Textile Scouring and Bleaching

10. Dr. Charles 'Tomasino, Chemistl & Technology of Fabric Preparation &

Finishing

11. David G Duff and Roy S Sinclair, SDC, Giles's Laboratory Course in dyeing12. hqp:/e .srs.fs.usda.gov/organization/spprog/landowners/conved

- metric-units.htm - 18/02/2009

13. Clariant Garment Dyeing Technical Manual

14. W ilfred Ingamells, SDC, Colour for Textiles, A User's Handbook, p92

15. Adhur D Broadbent (2001), Basic Principle of Textile Coloration; p337.

16. E. R. Trotman, Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres

17. A Bleachers Handbook, Solvay Interox18. James Park & John Shore

, Dyeing Laboratofy Manual, RoachesInternational Ltd.

19. hop:/e .easycalculation.com/unit-conversion/volume-factors.php18/02/2009

20. Thies Textilmaschinen ptlbjcatjon

21. Sankar ray Maulik and Lina Bhowmik, Dyeing of Jute with Natural Dyes -

An Approach for Jute Diversification (2006)22. N. Vishwanathan, Pretreatment and Cationization in garment pigment

dyeing, ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel

23. S. B. Srivastva, Recent processes of Textile Bleaching Dyeing and Finishing

24. lrfan Ahmed Shaikh, Pocket Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Exped

25. hqp://- .freepatentsonline.com/36l7zo6.html - 26/03/2009

26. W arren S. Perkins, Textile Coloration and Finishing

27. J. R. Aspland, Textile Dyeing and Coloration

28. Dr. V. A. Shenai, Technology of Dyeing, Vol. Vl

29. Textile Institute, Textile Terms and Definitions (Tenth Edition)

30. M. L. Gulrajani, Silk Dyeing, Printing and FinishingTechnical Iiterature, Huntsman

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