Peru's Melting Gods

Peru's Melting GodsSacred water on the verge of extinctionIn January 2009, the National Institute of Natural Resources in Perustated that the Quilca glacier, located at an altitude of 5,250 metresin the region of Puno, had completely disappeared. The agency believesthat because of global warming all of Peru's 2000 glaciers are destinedto totally melt by 2025.

A Photo story by Andrew McLeish / LightMediation

2623-02: A human tide composed of thousands of farmers and peasants from the Andean mountains, who converge 100 kilometres from the Inca capital of Cusco for the Qoyllur Rit'i pilgrimage.

Contact - Thierry Tinacci -LightMediation Photo Agency - +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 email:[email protected]

2623-01: Overlooking the small town of Mahuayani, which comes to life once a year for the Qoyllur Rit'ipilgrimage. It is the starting point for many of the 45000 pilgrims who will make the annual trek through the

2623-02: A human tide composed of thousands of farmers and peasants from the Andean mountains,who converge 100 kilometres from the Inca capital of Cusco for the Qoyllur Rit'i pilgrimage.

2623-03: Pilgrims travel along differing routes, following roads and rivers on their way to the Qoyllur Rit'ifestival in the mountains.

2623-04: An ancient tradition. Christianized in 1783, the ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates backcenturies to Inca rituals which considered the mountain to be an Apu (God) and its glacier as a source of

2623-11: An elite of Ukukus carry a large Catholic cross up the face of the sacred glacier to an altitude of 5300 metres. Christianized in 1783, the ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates back centuries to Inca ritualswhich considered the mountain to be an Apu (God) and its glacier as a source of holy water. Qoyllur Rit'i is Quechua for snow star.

2623-05: Pilgrims heading to the weeklong Qoyllur Rit'i festivities carry provisions to keep them warmduring the sub-zero nights at an altitude of 4700 metres.

2623-06: A procession of Ukukus making their way to the sacred Qolqepunku glacier. Ukukus areconsidered to be the offspring of a woman and a bear, and are feared by all for their supernatural force.

2623-07: Praying at the foot of the Qolqepunku glacier. Due to global warming the glacier is retreating atan alarming rate estimated at between 10 and 30 metres a year. Until recently all of the 45000 pilgrims

2623-08: An elite of Ukukus carry a large Catholic cross up the face of the sacred glacier to an altitude of5300 metres. Christianized in 1783, the ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates back centuries to Inca

2623-14: A handful of pilgrims attempt to get past an Ukuku guard to touch the sacred Qolqepunku glacier. The Ukukus are renowned for their violence whipping anyone who gets too close.




2623-12: Bodyguards. The Qolqepunku glacier is protected by the Ukukus who are often masked andarmed with whips during the weeklong festival. Due to global warming the glacier is retreating at an

2623-18: Jerry cans are for sale to pilgrims wishing to carry back runoff water from the glacier. Pre-filled jerry cans are very expensive and the water source is not always guaranteed to be very holy.

2623-13: Bodyguards. The Qolqepunku glacier is protected by the Ukukus who are often masked andarmed with whips during the weeklong festival. Due to global warming the glacier is retreating at an

2623-14: A handful of pilgrims attempt to get past an Ukuku guard to touch the sacred Qolqepunkuglacier. The Ukukus are renowned for their violence whipping anyone who gets too close.

2623-15: After the ceremony the area is closed off by the Ukukus who prevent the pilgrims fromapproaching the holy Qolqepunku glacier.

2623-16: An elite of Ukukus head back to the main campsite after performing a sacred ritual on the face ofthe Qolqepunku glacier.

2623-21: A 7-year-old boy went to the glacier to bring a little of the water, he said, to cure his sick parents.

2623-17: During the week of the El Senor de Qoyllurit'i pilgrimage an estimated 45000 Andean peasantscome and go to the campsite at an altitude of 4700 metres in the Sinkara Valley. The site and its church

2623-18: Jerry cans are for sale to pilgrims wishing to carry back runoff water from the glacier. Pre-filledjerry cans are very expensive and the water source is not always guaranteed to be very holy.

2623-19: Jerry cans are for sale to pilgrims wishing to carry back runoff water from the glacier. Pre-filledjerry cans are very expensive and the water source is not always guaranteed to be very holy.

2623-20: Until recently all of the 45000 pilgrims would take back a block of ice which they believed to havehealing powers. This year the Ukukus have decided to stop anyone from approaching the glacier due to its

2623-17: During the week of the El Senor de Qoyllurit'i pilgrimage an estimated 45000 Andean peasants come and go to the campsite at an altitude of 4700 metres in the Sinkara Valley. The site and its church wereoriginally constructed at the foot of the Qolqepunku glacier, however due to global warming the glacier has retreated more than 2 kilometres up the mountainside. It can take up to 8 hours to walk to the campsite from the

nearest town of Mahuayani, and 24 hours to walk from Ocongate.

2623-21: A 7-year-old boy went to the glacier to bring a little of the water, he said, to cure his sick parents. 2623-22: Pilgrims making the 8 kilometre walk back to Mahuayani.

2623-23: Catholic crosses are placed at intervals of 1 kilometre along the path between Mahuayani andthe Qolqepunku glacier. Christianized in 1783, the ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates back

2623-24: The sanctuary of Cusco. Traditionally the Ukukus would carry back large blocks of ice to thecathedral built in the 16th century by the Spanish however this practice is forbidden due to the alarming

2623-25: The sanctuary of Cusco. Traditionally the Ukukus would carry back large blocks of ice to the cathedral built in the 16th century by the Spanish however this practice is forbidden due to the alarming rate at whichthe glacier is melting. However three Ukukus have decided to ignore the new rules and have hauled back large blocks of ice from the Qolqepunku glacier some 100 kilometres away. The ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur

Rit'i always ends with the Corpus Christi festival in Cusco since it was Christianized by the Spanish in 1783.





2623-26: The sanctuary of Cusco. Traditionally the Ukukus would carry back large blocks of ice to the cathedral built in the 16th century by the Spanish however this practice is forbidden due to the alarming rate at whichthe glacier is melting. However three Ukukus have decided to ignore the new rules and have hauled back large blocks of ice from the Qolqepunku glacier some 100 kilometres away. The ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur

Rit'i always ends with the Corpus Christi festival in Cusco since it was Christianized by the Spanish in 1783.


2623-30: The ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i always ends with the Corpus Christi festival in Cuscosince it was Christianized by the Spanish in 1783.

2623-31: The ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i always ends with the Corpus Christi festival in Cuscosince it was Christianized by the Spanish in 1783.

2623-29: The sanctuary of Cusco. Traditionally the Ukukus would carry back large blocks of ice to the cathedral built in the 16th century by the Spanish however this practice is forbidden due to the alarming rate at whichthe glacier is melting.

Peru's MeltingGods

Peru's tropical glaciers are the mostsensitive to climate change. In January2009, the National Institute of NaturalResources in Peru (INRENA) stated thatthe Quilca glacier, located at an altitude of5,250 metres in the region of Puno, hadcompletely disappeared. The agencybelieves that because of global warmingall of Peru's 2000 glaciers are destined tototally melt by 2025 - representing 70% ofthe Earths tropical glaciers.

An alarming situation that could deprivethe Andean communities of an ancienttradition: 45000 pilgrims who wouldnormally each carry home a piece of thesacred glacier Qolqepunku. Christianizedin 1783 the El Señor de Qoyllur Rit'ifestival dates back centuries to Inca ritualswhich considered the mountain as an Apu(God) and it's glacier as a source of holywater. Over time the festival, which meansthe 'snow star' in Quechua, has becomethe largest pilgrimage in the southernhemisphere, taking place between Mayand June depending on the Catholiccalendar. A strange mixture of Christianityand Inca cultures manifest themselvesthrough dance, prayer and rituals at themain campsite in the Sinakara valley, atan altitude of 4700 meters. The site andits church were originally constructed atthe foot of the glacier; however the glacierhas retreated more than 2 kilometresbecause of global warming.Peru's national police force is forbidden toenter the site where order is strict andsecurity is controlled by the Ukukus, whoin Quechua mythology are the

descendants of a woman and a bear.Feared by everyone because of theirsupernatural power, the Ukukus arecharged with the task of climbing to analtitude of 5500 metres to bring back thesacred ice blocks that are then returned toCuzco, the ancient Inca capital 100 milesaway for the Corpus Christi procession.Armed with whips, these hooded creaturesdo not hesitate to use them to protect their'ice' god. Standing guard to prevent thepilgrims from approaching the ice, theseproud bodyguards appear powerlesswhen faced with global warming, whichdevours up to 30 metres a year.

Captions

2623-01: Overlooking the small town ofMahuayani, which comes to life once ayear for the Qoyllur Rit'i pilgrimage. It isthe starting point for many of the 45000pilgrims who will make the annual trekthrough the Sinkara valley to the sacredQolqepunku glacier.

2623-02: A human tide composed ofthousands of farmers and peasants fromthe Andean mountains, who converge 100kilometres from the Inca capital of Cuscofor the Qoyllur Rit'i pilgrimage.

2623-03: Pilgrims travel along differingroutes, following roads and rivers on theirway to the Qoyllur Rit'i festival in themountains.

2623-04: An ancient tradition.Christianized in 1783, the ceremony of ElSenor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates back centuriesto Inca rituals which considered themountain to be an Apu (God) and itsglacier as a source of holy water.

2623-05: Pilgrims heading to theweeklong Qoyllur Rit'i festivities carryprovisions to keep them warm during thesub-zero nights at an altitude of 4700metres.

2623-06: A procession of Ukukus makingtheir way to the sacred Qolqepunkuglacier. Ukukus are considered to be theoffspring of a woman and a bear, and arefeared by all for their supernatural force.Charged with protecting the glacier, only achosen elite will be allowed to climb ontothe glacier and take part in a holyceremony on the face of the ice.

2623-07: Praying at the foot of theQolqepunku glacier. Due to globalwarming the glacier is retreating at analarming rate estimated at between 10and 30 metres a year. Until recently all ofthe 45000 pilgrims would take back ablock of ice which is believed to havehealing powers. This year the Ukukushave decided to stop anyone fromapproaching the ice due to itsconsiderable reduction in size.`

2623-08: An elite of Ukukus carry a largeCatholic cross up the face of the sacredglacier to an altitude of 5300 metres.Christianized in 1783, the ceremony of ElSenor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates back centuriesto Inca rituals which considered themountain to be an Apu (God) and itsglacier as a source of holy water. QoyllurRit'i is Quechua for snow star.



2623-11: An elite of Ukukus carry a largeCatholic cross up the face of the sacredglacier to an altitude of 5300 metres.Christianized in 1783, the ceremony of El

Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates back centuriesto Inca rituals which considered themountain to be an Apu (God) and itsglacier as a source of holy water. QoyllurRit'i is Quechua for snow star.

2623-12: Bodyguards. The Qolqepunkuglacier is protected by the Ukukus who areoften masked and armed with whipsduring the weeklong festival. Due to globalwarming the glacier is retreating at analarming rate estimated at between 10and 30 metres a year. Until recently all ofthe 45000 pilgrims would take back ablock of ice which is believed to havehealing powers. This year the Ukukushave decided to stop anyone fromapproaching the ice due to itsconsiderable reduction in size.

2623-13: Bodyguards. The Qolqepunkuglacier is protected by the Ukukus who areoften masked and armed with whipsduring the weeklong festival. Due to globalwarming the glacier is retreating at analarming rate estimated at between 10and 30 metres a year. Until recently all ofthe 45000 pilgrims would take back ablock of ice which is believed to havehealing powers. This year the Ukukushave decided to stop anyone fromapproaching the ice due to itsconsiderable reduction in size.

2623-14: A handful of pilgrims attempt toget past an Ukuku guard to touch thesacred Qolqepunku glacier. The Ukukusare renowned for their violence whippinganyone who gets too close.

2623-15: After the ceremony the area isclosed off by the Ukukus who prevent thepilgrims from approaching the holyQolqepunku glacier.

2623-16: An elite of Ukukus head back to

the main campsite after performing asacred ritual on the face of theQolqepunku glacier.

2623-17: During the week of the El Senorde Qoyllurit'i pilgrimage an estimated45000 Andean peasants come and go tothe campsite at an altitude of 4700 metresin the Sinkara Valley. The site and itschurch were originally constructed at thefoot of the Qolqepunku glacier, howeverdue to global warming the glacier hasretreated more than 2 kilometres up themountainside. It can take up to 8 hours towalk to the campsite from the nearesttown of Mahuayani, and 24 hours to walkfrom Ocongate.

2623-18: Jerry cans are for sale topilgrims wishing to carry back runoff waterfrom the glacier. Pre-filled jerry cans arevery expensive and the water source isnot always guaranteed to be very holy.

2623-19: Jerry cans are for sale topilgrims wishing to carry back runoff waterfrom the glacier. Pre-filled jerry cans arevery expensive and the water source isnot always guaranteed to be very holy.

2623-20: Until recently all of the 45000pilgrims would take back a block of icewhich they believed to have healingpowers. This year the Ukukus havedecided to stop anyone from approachingthe glacier due to its considerablereduction in size. Therefore pilgrims tussleto fill jerry cans with glacier runoff waterfurther downstream.

2623-21: A 7-year-old boy went to theglacier to bring a little of the water, hesaid, to cure his sick parents.

2623-22: Pilgrims making the 8 kilometrewalk back to Mahuayani.

2623-23: Catholic crosses are placed at intervals of 1 kilometre along thepath between Mahuayani and the Qolqepunku glacier. Christianized in1783, the ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i dates back centuries to Incarituals which considered the mountain to be an Apu (God) and its glacier asa source of holy water. Qoyllur Rit'i is Quechua for snow star.

2623-24: The sanctuary of Cusco. Traditionally the Ukukus would carry backlarge blocks of ice to the cathedral built in the 16th century by the Spanishhowever this practice is forbidden due to the alarming rate at which theglacier is melting.

2623-25-26-27-28: The sanctuary of Cusco. Traditionally the Ukukus wouldcarry back large blocks of ice to the cathedral built in the 16th century by theSpanish however this practice is forbidden due to the alarming rate at whichthe glacier is melting. However three Ukukus have decided to ignore thenew rules and have hauled back large blocks of ice from the Qolqepunkuglacier some 100 kilometres away. The ceremony of El Senor de QoyllurRit'i always ends with the Corpus Christi festival in Cusco since it wasChristianized by the Spanish in 1783.

2623-29: The sanctuary of Cusco. Traditionally the Ukukus would carry backlarge blocks of ice to the cathedral built in the 16th century by the Spanishhowever this practice is forbidden due to the alarming rate at which theglacier is melting.

2623-30-31: The ceremony of El Senor de Qoyllur Rit'i always ends with theCorpus Christi festival in Cusco since it was Christianized by the Spanish in1783.

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Peru's Melting Gods