The French Way by Bicycle

The goal of all the historic ways to Santiago is the City of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. And the most famous route of all is the one known as the French Way, which crosses the Pyrenees from France into Spain. This route is brimming with history, legends and art, and boasts a wealth of landscapes and natural settings as diverse as they are unforgettable.

This publication takes us along this route, which after leaving France, crosses the North of Spain and brings us to Santiago. During the Middle Ages practically the only way to travel this route was on foot or on horseback. The coming of new means of transportation did not change the course of these methods of travelling, except in one case - the bicycle.

The strong attraction - both culturally and spiritually of making the journey to Santiago in the traditional way - on foot or on horseback - has been maintained, owing to the interest of the pilgrims themselves, to the conservation of much of the original route and, in recent years, thanks to the creation of different services adapted to these types of journeys.

Travelling the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago by bicycle has been accepted as it embodies many of the traditional features of the pilgrimage. Indeed, the speed and the changes in pace are complemented by considerable physical effort and the sense of overcoming one's limitations, being thus conducive to reflection and a certain feeling of solitude, which are all compatible with group travelling and solidarity.

If you start your itinerary at the last village on the Way before entering Spain, via Roncesvalles, as we propose here, the distance from Santiago is nearly 800

kilometres. Approximately half of the route travels over rough terrain, interspersed with continuous climbs up and down hills as well as a few mountain passes.

But the pilgrim can plan these 800 kilometres as he or she wishes, depending on how physically fit the person is and how much time they have to spare. Before setting out, the key factors to consider are the bicycle and its equipment, physical fitness and food. Pilgrims should also find out about their route and plan ahead. Particularly worthy of consideration is how much baggage to take.

Equipping the bicycle

The basic equipment of any mountain bike should usually be sufficient to tackle a route such as the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago with minimum safety guarantees.

It is, however, necessary to fit the bicycle with panniers and a bike rack over the rear wheel. It is also useful to have a small pack under the seat to carry a small tool kit. Other convenient equipment includes handlebar packs to carry maps and information about the route. A speedometer may also be installed.

Physical training

Experienced cyclists should practise riding on rough terrain with loaded bicycle packs prior to their departure.

Those who are not experienced should start off gently, gradually building up their cycling skills and stamina and practising on rough terrain. It is a good idea to start training a month before departure, riding a little every day, gradually increasing the distances. The last week should be dedicated to getting used to riding with full bike packs.

It is essential to have tested all equipment and clothing before leaving and to have a basic knowledge of bicycle mechanics.

The condition of the route

The best time of year to cycle along the Pilgrims' Way is the first fortnight in September, after the hot summer weather has subsided, but when the days are still long. Another good season is from late May until the beginning of July. During the spring and early autumn the Way is at it’s very best, although changing weather conditions may put a damper on the trip from time to time.

The months of July and August are not the best times of year to choose, mainly because of the heat. If you do decide to travel during these months, it is advisable to do so early in the morning and late in the afternoon. The Way is not pleasant to travel along in winter, due to the adverse weather conditions. It is cold and often wet, and even snows occasionally, and the roads are in poor condition.

Baggage

Baggage must be reduced to a minimum, owing to the conditions of the bicycle itself.

The basic equipment should consist of a jersey, padded short pants, mountain bike shoes or trainers with hard soles, gloves, sunglasses, a hat or cap, a light rain jacket and a helmet.

If the trip is not made in summer, equipment must be adapted to winter weather - a thermal jersey, padded long pants, etc.-

You also must pack only the most essential undergarments and street clothes, light trainers, sunscreen, a towel, articles for personal hygiene, a water bottle, a torch and personal documents and information about the route.

Other basic elements include a sleeping bag and mat, tools for minor repairs, especially punctures, and plastic covering to protect the panniers and sleeping bag.

The Compostela

Before you leave, you must also decide if you wish to obtain the Compostela, the document that serves to accredit the pilgrimage to Santiago, which is issued by the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela through the Pilgrim's Office.

This certificate is granted to those pilgrims who have completed the Way for religious reasons, either on foot, horseback or by bicycle. Cyclists must prove that they have travelled at least the last 200 kilometres of this pilgrimage route by presenting a card that has been stamped by the different establishments of the Church and other entities along the Way.

Suggested Route

The Pilgrims' Way to Santiago does not start at a specific point nor does it consist of a single itinerary. Indeed, the Way can be reached from many different places all over Europe. This publication proposes the

route that has traditionally been the best known and the most popular: the French Way. This route runs along four major roads in France and enters Spain through two points in the Pyrenees: Roncesvalles (Navarre) and Somport (Aragon). Here we present the route that goes from the neighbouring French town of Saint-Jean Pied de Port, an emblematic town on the Pilgrims' Way, to the city of Santiago.

The Way is divided into 15 stretches, in an attempt to combine the stamina of the average cyclist with the places of historic and artistic interest along the route. Nevertheless, each cyclist must adapt the route to his or her particular characteristics. The Way must never become a race to reach Compostela.

As you will see, at the end of each stretch, the cyclist will find pilgrims' hostels that are very reasonably priced ó some are even free of charge. At some of the hostels pilgrims travelling on foot take preference over other travellers, - a tradition that must be complied with. Along almost all of the stretches, there are other alternative accommodation options for pilgrims to choose from.

1. Saint-Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

In the French town of Saint-Jean Pied de Port, the Way of Saint James looks out over Spanish territory. A mere 30 kilometres separates the north and south face of the Pyrenees Mountain range along one of the most beautiful and inspiring stretches of the Pilgrims' Way.

This first stretch offers two possible itineraries, both of which have a long-standing tradition. The first, called the "Route of the Mountain passes of Cize" is more difficult, but also more rewarding. The traveller comes across sweeping views of the Pyrenean landscape and lush woods of deciduous trees all along the way. The second route, through Valcarlos, is more accessible but does not offer such spectacular scenery.

2. Roncesvalles to Pamplona

On this stretch of the Way we leave the Pyrenees behind. The immense Pyrenean forest gives way to small patches of oak woods and conifers, interspersed with farmlands and dry barren lands.

This route invites the traveller to delight in the magnificent and carefully conserved towns in the Navarra Region.

This stretch takes the cyclist on a roller coaster ride through narrow winding ways that make this route a veritable "leg breaker". Barring this, the way itself is not especially difficult, with the exception of the descent down the Alto de Erro and the last leg of this stretch, from Zabaldica onwards. If it is raining, it is advisable to follow the road on these two sections.

3. Pamplona to Estella

This stretch penetrates into the heart of the ancient region of Navarra. It crosses dry plains and furrowed farmlands dotted with towns and villages.

After travelling halfway, the cyclist enters the emblematic town of Puente la Reina, where the two routes of the French Way, one entering Spain from Roncesvalles and the other from Somport, join together as one to head towards Santiago.

The symbol of this junction is this town's historic bridge built to help the pilgrims on their way for the pilgrims.

This way is relatively easy, except for the last leg, during the ascent to the Alto del Perdon. The muddy part of this stretch makes it difficult to travel in inclement weather.

4. Estella to Logrono

This is the last leg of the stretch travelling in a south-westerly direction. After Logrono, the French Way turns west, and continues in this direction until it reaches Compostela.

This stretch skirts the great Benedictine Monastery of Irache and crosses the Ebro River over the historic Piedra Bridge, at the gates of the city of Logrono, capital of the region of La Rioja. Fields of grain and vineyards line the way on our journey.

This is an arduous stretch, known as "leg breaker", with a never-ending succession of steep hills to climb and where the wind becomes an unpleasant companion all along the route. During wet weather, there may also be problems with mud on the dirt ways.

5. Logrono to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Vineyards and farmlands make up the countryside of a stretch, which leads us to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, rich in history and traditions associated with Saint James and the Pilgrims' Way, as the eponymous saint to attend to the pilgrims founded it.

The saint's influence can also be seen along the Way in this area, with a magnificent 24-arch bridge spanning the Oja River.

The hills of La Demanda, to the south, and of Cantabria to the north, flank the vast valley of the Ebro River, which the cyclist crosses during this leg. The strong winds bearing down upon the valley make for tough conditions on an already arduous stretch.

5. Santo Domingo de la Caliada to Burgos

The Oca Mountains are the most characteristic geographical feature on this stretch. The ascent up to these small peaks takes the cyclist through what is to be the last major area of woodland before entering the Bierzo region.

Once the arduous mountain pass of La Pedraja, and the highest section of the Oca Mountains is behind him, the pilgrim will see his efforts rewarded by the natural, historic and artistic setting of the Monastery of San Juan de Ortega.

After visiting this beautiful set of buildings, the landscape once again becomes dominated by plains, leading us to the monumental city of Burgos.

7. Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes

Like the previous stretch, this stage is filled with numerous cultural landmarks closely linked to the Way and Saint James.

Other sites of interest include Fitero Bridge, Romanesque in origin with eleven arches spanning the Pisuerga River, and the monumental heritage of towns such as Fromista, Villalcazar de Sirga and Carrion, all of which are located in the region of Palencia called Tierra de Campos.

Although this stretch appears to be flat, there is a series of hillocks, which the pilgrim must tackle.

As soon as he reaches the top of one hill, another appears on the horizon. The pilgrim is rewarded by the stunning views offered by these vantage points.

8. Carrion de Los Condes to Sahagun

Along this stretch, the countryside is dominated by the endless austere plains of Castile, leading the pilgrim to Sahagun, the most important historical and cultural landmark, boasting emblematic Romanesque-Mudejar churches among many other attractions.

This stretch represents a halfway mark along the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago. The unrelenting sun of the vast Castilian flatlands is hard on the traveller during the summer season.

The pilgrim can find some relief in the isolated rows of poplar trees lining a few of the streams and in the shade of the narrow streets in the towns.

The first 16 kilometres of this stretch go along charming little roads through farmlands, but the rest of the route largely coincides with the N-120 highway.

9. Sahagun to Leon

After leaving Sahagun, the Way penetrates into the plains of Leon. The scenery is very changeable and the way is difficult and stony.

In addition to the austere beauty of the plains, the pilgrim is ultimately rewarded with the appearance on the horizon of the city of Leon, with its exceptional artistic heritage, the most outstanding element of which is the Gothic cathedral.

Crossing this barren plain is an arduous proposition, both in summer and in winter. The pilgrims have a choice of two alternative routes on this stretch. The first, less strenuous, travels along the Camino Real, and the other rougher, more solitary route, takes the traveller along the historic pilgrim road.

In both cases, in summer it is advisable to set out very early in the morning and to carry an ample supply of water.

10. Leon to Astorga

The journey to Santiago continues on through a more populated and accessible plain. The last stretch, en route to the Roman city of Astorga, takes us into the region of La Maragateria, famous for its muleteers and deep-rooted traditions.

At kilometre 33 on this stretch, the pilgrim comes across the Bridge of Paso Honroso spanning the Orbigo River, and famous for the deeds of Suero de Quinones, a 15th century knight.

During the Holy Year of 1434, fulfilling a promise to a lady and naming Saint James as his witness, this knight participated in some famous jousting tournaments on this spot.

11. Astorga to Ponferrada

The way continues along through the region of La Maragateria which ends roughly halfway through this stage. In the vicinity of Mount !raga, the Bierzo region begins, marking the transition between Leon and Galicia.

Here the people, their customs and landscape act as a bridge across the gap that divides the two cultures.

Similarly, at this point the Way also undergoes a transition from the straight route of the flat plains to the sinuous ways and roads snaking up and down around the hills all the way to Santiago.

On this stretch the pilgrim must climb Cruz de Ferro, 1,504 m in altitude, one of the highest points along the French Way.

12. Ponferrada to O Cebreiro

The Bierzo region and Galicia meet on this stretch, which culminates Ponferrada at 1,300 m in 0 Cebreiro, which is perhaps the most mythical of all the villages on this Way, and heavily charged with symbolism.

Prior to this destination, in Villafranca del Bierzo, the traveller may admire this town's fine collection of monuments and the Romanesque Church of Santiago, where pilgrims who are unable to reach Santiago de Compostela may receive plenary indulgence.

The first few kilometres along this route continue in the same vein, from Villafranca through the narrow valley of the Valcarce River whose banks are lined with oaks and chestnut trees. The last eight km ascends some 690 metres.

However the spectacular views of the countryside and the notion that Compostela is drawing near more than compensate for the effort

13. Cebreiro to Sarria

The lush countryside and the Galician mountains dominate this stretch.

In Triacastela the pilgrim can choose between two possible routes: to continue along the traditional way, through the village of A Balsa in a setting of woods and meadows, or to take the road to Samos, whose great Benedictine Monastery has attracted pilgrims since ancient times.

From here and as far as Santiago de Compostela, the Way makes its way through inhabited areas, passing through a succession of villages.

Two of the most important of these are Triacastela and Samos. The Way makes its way up and down hills, although this stretch ascends almost 850 metres between 0 Cebreiro and Sarria.

14. Sarria to Palas de Rei

The Way leads out of Sarria through some of the most magnificent oak woods to be found on the entire route, continuing through an endless succession of villages and farmland.

Historically Portomarin stands out as having been one of the most important towns along the route, but it disappeared under the waters of the Belesar Reservoir built on the Mino River in 1962.

The new town of Portomarin, by the ruins of the old town, has tried to maintain its traditional charm.

Some of the old constructions from the original site were moved to the new location, such as the Church of San Nicolas (12th century)

This penultimate part of the route travels through a countryside of rolling hills and short stretches of plains, which, however, does not keep it from being a true "leg breaker" owing to the constantly changing course.

15. Palas de Rei - Santiago de Compostela

At this point, just 70 kilometres from the ultimate goal of Santiago de Compostela, the pilgrims are filled with a sense of expectation, which affords them the encouragement they need to tackle this last stretch with renewed strength.

Santiago will reward them for all the efforts they have made.

Even though the contour of the land does not present any major difficulties on this last stage, the Way travels through village after village, making it rather wearisome.

The Way takes us across valleys and rivers descending to the Tambre. The succession of ascents and descents makes for arduous cycling. Moreover, this stretch crosses the N-547 highway several times.

On reaching the Monte do Gozo, we have our first glimpse of the towers of the Cathedral of Santiago the goal is now in sight. From here we go directly into the heart of the city.

The historic city

After visiting the Cathedral, the place where pilgrims first arrive and meet, they can enjoy a tour of the city of Santiago in all its historic splendour, taking in the diversity and dynamic appearance it offers today.

The modern-day city of Santiago de Compostela evolved from a small settlement of monks who were the custodians of the tomb of the Apostle at the time of its discovery, around the year 820. The city underwent spectacular development during the Middle Ages, thanks to the popularity of pilgrimages in Europe, which made it, along with Jerusalem and Rome, one of the three great centres of the Christian world.

Between the 15th and the 19th centuries, the city alternated between prosperity and decadence, in keeping with the fluctuating pulse of the history of Galicia, Spain and Europe. Pilgrimages became less and less important, but Santiago consolidated its position as a centre of culture, learning and spirituality thanks to the founding of the University and the city's Renaissance and Baroque heritage, mirrored in most of its major historical monuments and buildings.

In the Cathedral

The Cathedral of Santiago, whose construction began in the year 1075, is one of the great European monuments from both an artistic and symbolic standpoint. From its Romanesque origins, it evolved through a number of styles, although the Baroque elements are perhaps the most outstanding, culminating in the facade of 0 Obradoiro (1738-1750).

A tour of the naves and its Museum reveals an interesting and varied heritage both in content and significance.

During his visit to the cathedral and surroundings, the pilgrim usually carries out a ritual that takes him to the chapel of the main altar, in keeping with the tradition, to 'embrace' the Apostle Saint James - a sculpture of Romanesque origin - and next, to visit the crypt where his remains are buried. A visit to the Portico of Glory is also part of the ritual, as is attending the pilgrims' mass at 12 noon, where the swinging of the botafumeiro, hanging high up in he nave of the transept surprises and delights the visitor,

After his visit to the Cathedral, if the pilgrim has all the required credentials justifying his pilgrimage, on foot, on horseback or by bicycle, he may go to the Pilgrims' Office to ask for the Compostela, the document accrediting his pilgrimage, which is granted by the Cathedral Chapter. From this moment on the city of Santiago de Compostela belongs to the pilgrim to enjoy and to treasure.

The modern-day city

Santiago has enjoyed steady growth since the mid 20th century. In addition to the gradual rebirth of the pilgrimages, which keep its traditional spiritual significance alive, the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago has become a growing tourist and cultural attraction.

In recent years, Santiago, the administrative capital of the autonomous region of Galicia, has seen the construction of a number of important cultural and tourist infrastructures and it has succeeded in projecting an international image as a

European oriented historic and cultural centre. Proof of this are the thousands of visitors that flock to the city every day throughout the year.

Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Santiago is anxious to maintain its thousand year old tradition of harmony, spirituality and progress through the historic tradition of its Pilgrims' Way.

1 Cathedral-Holy Door- Xelmirez Palace

2 Raxoi Palace

3 Reis Catolicos Hotel

4 College of San Xerome

5 Church of San Fructuoso

6 Fonseca College

7 Cabildo House

8 Conga House

9 Parra House

10 Convent of San Paio de Antealtares

11 Monastery of San Martino Pinario

12 Church of San Martino Pinario

13 The Dean's House. Pilgrims' Office

14 Vaamonde Palace

15 Bendana Palace

16 Church of Santa Maria Salome

17 Convent of San Francisco

18 Convent of Carme

19 Convent of Santa Clara

20 Church and former hospital of San Roque

21 Gothic House. Pilgrimage Museum

22 San Domingos de Bonaval. Museum of the Galician People

23 Galician Centre of Modern Art

24 Faculty of History and Geography

25 University Church

26 Church of San Fiz de Solovio

27 Convent and Church of the Mercedarian Mothers

28 School of As Orfas

29 Church of San Miguel dos Agros

30 Church of Santa Maria do Camino

31 Church of San Bieito do Campo

32 Convent of Santo Agostino

33 San Clemente College

34 General Chapel of Animas

35 Chapel of Santiago

36 Church of El Pilar

37 The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Real de Sar

The Pilgrims' Ways to Santiago

The discovery of the Tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater at the beginning of the 9th century soon brought about a stream of travellers making the pilgrimage to the site, which is today the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela. This vast influx of pilgrims from all over Europe led to the creation of a network of itineraries, known collectively as the Camino de Santiago or the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago.

The heyday of the pilgrimages took place between the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries with the granting of specific spiritual indulgences. This trend, however, has endured to a greater or lesser extent over the course of the centuries. Since the mid 20th century the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago has been experiencing an international rebirth, which combines its spiritual and socio-cultural tradition with its tourist appeal, and once again it has become a melting pot for all types of peoples and cultures.

Traditionally the Pilgrims' Ways are at their busiest during the Holy Years, held at intervals of 6, 5, 6, and 11 years -the next will be in 2010-, but any time is ideal for following the Way towards its ultimate goal: the city of Santiago de Compostela.