Numbering Artifacts A How-to Slideshow

Courtesy

Wyoming State Museum

What You Will Learn

This short tutorial will guide you in numbering:

non-porous artifacts with light backgrounds;

non-porous artifacts with dark backgrounds;

two-dimensional works of art;

books and paper artifacts;

textiles.

Make It Standard, Secure, Reversible

Artifacts should be numbered in a regular location whenever possible, and the appearance of the number should be the same from piece to piece. A number must be secure and durable, yet reversible so no damage results if it ever needs to be removed from the artifact.

Supplies you may need. (See next slide for description.)

Supplies you may need. The previous slide shows (left to right, top to bottom): can of acetone (for removal of numbers, if necessary) bottle of Soluvar Gloss Varnish, bottle of Acryloid B-72, bottle of White Acrylic Fluid, white thread/needle, cotton twill tape, cotton swab or q-tip, eraser, scissors, tweezers, Rapidograph pen, Micron pen, pencil, acid-free artifact tags, A supplier list can be found at the end of this slide show.

Important Note

Note: Do not use Soluvar Gloss Varnish, Acryloid B-72, or acetone on painted objects or plastics without doing a small test first.

These chemicals can permanently damage some paints and plastics. Apply a tiny dot of either liquid to the object being numbered (or having a number removed) and look for changes before proceeding.

What are they used for? Soluvar Gloss Varnish or Acryloid B-72, and White Acrylic Fluid are

used to paint a small base coat on non-porous surfaces such as metal, stone, glass, ceramic, and some plastics.

What are they used for? Pencils are used for numbering paper. A Rapidograph pen

and/or Micron pen are used for numbering non-porous artifacts.

What are they used for? Cotton twill tape, along with needle and thread, are used to

attach numbers to textiles.

To number light colored, non-porous artifacts, you will need a bottle of clear, Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish to create barrier coats, a q-tip to apply

them, and a Rapidograph pen or Micron pen to write the number.

First, apply a thin base coat layer of clear Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish to the artifact with the q-tip. The layer should be about

one inch in length.

Once applied, allow the layer to dry completely.

Next, use your Rapidograph or Micron pen to write the object’s indentification number on the dried base layer. Allow the ink to dry

completely before the next step.

Apply a top coat of clear Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish over the number to protect it. This layer should extend over the edge of

the base layer. Allow the piece to dry completely.

To number dark colored, non-porous objects, you will need a bottle of clear Acryloid B72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish, a bottle of White Acrylic Fluid, a

Rapidograph pen or Micron pen, and a q-tip. For this artifact we are also adding an acid-free paper tag for quick and easy identification.

First, apply a thin, one inch long base coat of Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish to the object. Once dry, apply a layer of White Acrylic Fluid to the top

of the base coat. Allow the White Acrylic Fluid to dry completely.

Use your Rapidograph or Micron pen to write the artifact’s identification number on the dried White Acrylic Fluid. Allow the ink

to dry completely.

Apply a top coat of clear Acryloid B72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish over the number. This layer should extend over the edge of the base coat.

Write the artifact’s identification number on an acid-free paper tag with a pencil.

Attach the tag loosely to the artifact. This will allow for an easier check of the artifact’s identification number in the future.

Removing a Number Applied with Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish

To remove a number applied with Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish, wet a q-tip in acetone and lightly swab at the number until it dissolves. Wipe the area with a clean cloth. You can apply a new number when the object is dry.

To number a two-dimensional work of art, you need a 2H pencil.

Turn the artwork over and write the object’s identification number in the lower right corner. If the artwork is unframed, write the number on the stretcher bar in the same

way. Posters and similar two-dimensional pieces can have their numbers lightly applied directly to the back lower right corner of the object.

To number a book, you will need a 2H pencil.

Open the back cover and apply the object number to the lower right corner of the cover with the pencil.

Removing a Number Applied with Pencil

To remove a number applied with pencil, use a clean eraser and lightly erase the markings. Minimize your strokes and try to erase only the area covered by pencil marks. Ensure that eraser debris is cleaned from all surfaces of the object.

To number a textile, you will need cotton twill tape, a needle and thread, a Rapidograph pen or Micron pen, and scissors.

First, cut a short piece of cotton twill tape approximately 1.5 to 2 inches in length.

Write the object’s identification number in the center of the twill tape with a Rapidograph pen or Micron pen and allow it to dry completely.

Fold the short edges of the cotton twill tape back to prevent fraying then sew the short edges onto an interior surface or the back of

the textile. Use just enough loose stitches to secure the tag.

Removing a Cloth Tag Number from a Textile

To remove a cloth tag number from a textile, use a pair of scissors to snip the stitches attaching the tag to the cloth. Use tweezers to gently remove the stitches.

Where to buy supplies.

Supplies for these processes may be found at:

Hobby Lobby or similar craft supply stores

Gaylord Brothers (www.gaylord.com)

University Products (www.universityproducts.com)

Dick Blick (www.dickblick.com)