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Vol 4(4) July-August 2005 315

Cosmetics Potential of Herbal Extracts

Prashant L Kole, Hemant R Jadhav, Prasad Thakurdesai and Anantha Naik Nagappa*Pharmacy Group,

Birla Institute of Technology and Science,Pilani- 333 031, Rajasthan, India

*Correspondent author; E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

Cosmetology, the science of alteration of appearance, has been practiced since primordialtimes. In India, the concept of using herbs for beautification finds its origin in traditional medicineliterature like Ayurveda. The cosmetic preparations were used for the purpose of worship andsensual enjoyment. Moreover, since centuries, the herbal extracts, as a whole or part thereof, havebeen used for various ailments of the skin, hair and for overall appearance. The market research

shows upward trend in the herbal trade with the herbal cosmetic industry playing a major role infuelling this worldwide demand for herbals. The recent interest of consumers in herbal cosmeticshas beenstimulated by the decline of faith in modern cosmetics, the belief thatplant remedies werenatural and thereby superior to man-made synthetic cosmetics, and the reference to successfulhistorical useby different cultures. These reasons have contributed to the increased acceptance as

well as manufacture of herbal cosmetics. Many herbs have been scientifically evaluated for theircosmetic potential. Some traditional plants like Trigonella foenum-graecum Linn.,Azadirachta indicaA. Juss.,Mimosa tenuifloraBenth.,Aloe veraLinn.,etc.needspecial mention. The great void remains though fora systematic, thorough review of scientific datathat providesa basis for the use of specific herbs and their efficacy as cosmetics.Similarly, there isa lackof scientific review of phytochemicals that are used in cosmetic preparations. This reviewattempts to fill-up this gap and emphasizes the need for safety evaluation of herbal cosmetics.

Keywords: Herbal cosmetics, Plant extracts,Therapeutic activities, Cosmeceuticals.

IPC code; Int.cl.7A61K 7/00, A61K 7/02, A61K 7/06, A61K 7/48, A61K 35/78, A61P

Introduction

Beauty, the quality that givespleasure to the senses, is perhaps the desireof every human being on earth. Some areborn beautiful and some are infact madebeautiful. Aestheticappearance has alwaysbeen a matter of primeimportance. The wordbeauty is not only relatedto women, as is oftenthought, but men also usecosmetic products. By the

European Directive 93/35/EEC (EuropeanCommission), the cosmetic products aredefined as any substance or preparationintended to be placed in contact with the

various external parts of the human body(epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and

external genital organs) or with the teethand the mucous membranes of the oralcavity with a view exclusively or mainly tocleaning them, perfuming them, changingtheir appearance and/or correcting bodyodours and/or protecting them or keepingthem in good conditions1. In Charak-Samhita , numerous herbs likeNagkeshara(Mesua ferreaLinn.),

Padmaka(Prunus serotinaEhrh.),Yashtimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabraLinn.),Manjistha(Rubia cordifoliaLinn.), etc. were described forglowing the complexion and for otherskin disorders. KushthagnaMahakashaya denotes the compound

Article

Glycyrrhiza glabra Curcuma longa

Embelia ribes

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Natural Product Radiance316

Article

formulation containing Khadira(Acacia catechuWilld.), Abhaya(Terminalia chebula Retz.),Ama laki (Phyl lanthus ni ruriHook.f.),Haridra(Curcuma longaLinn.), Bhallataka (Semecarpusanacardium Linn. f.), Saptaparna(Al stonia scholari s R. Br.) ,Aragvadha (Centella asiatica(Linn.) Urban), Karavira(Neriumindicum Mill.), Vidanga (EmbeliaribesBurm.f.) andJati(Glycyrrhizaglabra) used as effective curative for skindisorders4.

The knowledge of herbalcosmetics is represented now-a-days byboth orally transmitted folk informationand newer information generated bymodern scientific studies. Herbal products

like extracts; oils and powders have beenused in cosmetics as either active moietiesor as excipients.

Herbal extracts used in

cosmetics

Herbal extracts are primarilyadded to the cosmetic preparations dueto several associated properties such asantioxidant properties. These antioxidantbotanicals are generally classified intothree categories depending upon thenature of their constituents as carotenoids,

flavonoids and polyphenols. Thecarotenoids are structurally related to

vitamin A and constitute various retinolslike retinoic acid. Flavonoids, in additionto the antioxidant action, impart the UV

protection and metal chelating properties.The polyphenolics is a large class andcontains various molecules likerosemarinic acid (rosemary), hypericin(Saint Johns Wort) and oleirupein (oliveleaf) 5, 6. Apart from these, the herbalextracts have also been used for the topicalanti-inflammatory properties. Theseagents block the inflammatory changesthat result during the cutaneous ageingand thus may be helpful in reversingthe signs of ageing7. Table 1 enlists variousherbal crude drugs with their partsused for cosmetic purposes. Some Indian

medicinal plants, which have been studiedin detail for their use in cosmetics,are being discussed here for furtherexploration.

Table 1 : List of crude drugs used for cosmetic purposes

S. No. Name of the Plant Common name Part used Active constituents Class Uses

1 Acacia concinnaDC. Shikakai Pods Saponin, Sugars Shampoo, Soaps

2 Acorus calamusLinn. Sweet flag Rhizome Monoterpenes, Beta-asarone Aromatic, Dustingpowders, Skin lotions

3 Allium sativumLinn. Garlic Bulbs Allicin and Adenosine Skin healing

4 Azadirachta indicaA. Juss. Neem Leaves Limonoids, Tetranortriterpenoids Toothpastes, Soaps,Shampoo

5 Cereus grandiflorusMill. Cactus Leaf Saponins MoisturizingSaccharides tightening of skin

6 Cichorium intybusLinn. Chicory Seed Sesquiterpene lactones Skin of blemishes

7 Citrullus vulgarisSchrad. Water melon Fruit Saccharides, Carotenoids, Tannins Sebum secretion

8 Citrus medicaLinn. Lemon Fruit Flavonoids Whitening, astringent Triterpenoids depigmentation

9 Crocus sativusLinn. Saffron Stigma Safranal, Carotenoid Post bath massage

10 Cucumis sativusLinn. Cucumber Fruit Cucurbitacins Moisturizing

11 Foeniculum vulgare Mill Fennel Fruit Saponins Deodorant SaccharidesFlavonoids

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Article

S. No. Name of the Plant Common name Part used Active constituents Class Uses

12 Lawsonia albaLam. Henna Leaves Hanno-tannic acid, Glucoside Shampoo

13 Malus pumilaMiller Apple Fruit Saccharides MoisturizingFlavonoids Anti-ageing

Triterpenoids

14 Matricaria chamomillaLinn. Chamomile Flowers Alpha-bisabolol, Choline Hair tonic

15 Mentha arvensisLinn. Mint Whole plant Triterpenoids Anti-perspiration16 Panax ginsengMey. Ginseng Root Saponins Hair Strengthening

Saccharides PreparationsTriterpenoids

17 Portulaca oleraceaLinn. Purslane Whole plant Saccharides Hair growth promotion,Triterpenoids Moisturizing, Anti-Tannins dandruff

Saponins

18 Prunus armeniaceLinn. Peach Fruit Saccharides Anti-Ageing Creams,Saponins Anti-KeratiTriterpenoids

19 Pterocarpus santalinus Red sandalwood Bark Santalins Skin creamsLinn. f.

20 Pueraria lobataOhwi Arrot root Root Flavonoids Astringent lotionsKudzu (Isoflavones)

SaccharidesSaponins

21 Rheum coreanumNakai Rhubarb Root Flavonoids UV absorptionTriterpenoids Free radical scavenger

22 Santalum albumLinn. Sandal wood Bark, wood Sesquiterpenes, Sesquiterpenols, Skin lotions

23 Triticum aestivumLinn. Wheat germ Germ Vitamin E, Gliadin and Glutenin Skin lotions

Henna powderGarlic

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Article

purposes. Its use has been indicated inboils, catarrhal affections, eczema andmany other skin related disorders.Cosmetically, the chemical constituents ofthe neem are considered to be antisepticand natural preservative. Limonoids andtetranortriterpenoids of the neem are usedin the various cosmetic preparations like,toothpastes, soaps and shampoo10, 11.

Mimosa tenuiflora(Willd.) Poiret(Mimosa)

It contains several tannins,

lactones, flavonoids, saponins andnumerous oligo-elements, which areantibacterial, astringent and UV protective.It is recommended for products withcutaneous regeneration activity, sun orafter-sun protection products because ofits healing, repairing and re-equilibratingproperties. It is included in cosmeticproducts related to capillary resistance,improvement in peripheralmicrocirculation like dermatological

applications, acne gels, etc. It is also usedin astringent lotions12.

Aloe veraLinn. (Aloe)

It is also known as Lily of thedesert or the Plant of Immortality. Itsemollient, purgative and vulneraryproperties have been reported. It isrecommended for sunburn, minor burns,

wrinkles, insect bites, skin irritations,minor cuts and scratches. Research hasshown that the clear gel has a dramaticability to heal wounds, ulcers and burnsby putting a protective coating on theaffected areas and speeds up the healingrate13. The inner portion of the leafcontains a hydrocolloid, which is

composed of polyhexanoses and hexanssuch as xylose, arabinose and galactose.This mucilaginous gel obtained from theleaves of the the plant has long been usedfor its healing and cosmetic properties.The mucilaginous gel acts as a film andhas a pH, which is directly compatible

with that of the skin. One of the mostvaluable cosmetic properties of aloe gelis its ability to stimulate the circulationof the skin and remove the dead skin cells,so giving a fresher and younger appearanceto the skin. It also clears away blemishes,protects the skin against infections and

reduces wrinkles14

. Aloe shampoo helpsto combat dry and brittle hair15. The gelis also reported to contain salicylic acid,

which has keratolytic and bacteriostaticproperties. It is also cited as being aprophylactic for dry skin, which is proneto inflammation, because of itsantiphlogistic, bacteriostatic andmoisturizing qualities16.

Curcuma longaLinn. (Turmeric)The paste of turmeric powder has

been used as antiseptic and for skinnourishment since centuries. Curcumin,the active compound of turmeric, is apolyphenol used in skin care preparations.Its hydrogenated form,tetrahydrocurcumin, an off-whitecoloured compound, is preferred overcurcumin because curcumin is a yellow

colouring substance. It has dual functionof being an antioxidant and to protect thelipids in moisturizers from becomingrancid. Curcumin also has anti-inflammatory activity by inhibitingleukotriene formation, inhibiting plateletaggregation and stabilizing neutrophiliclysosomal membranes17, 18.

Trigonella foenum-graecumLinn.(Fenugreek)

It hasa p h r o d i s i a c ,a s t r i n g e n t ,cooling, demulcentand emollientproperties. It offersmany dermatologicalsolutions forcomplete skin andmucous membrane.The British Herbal

P h a r m a c o p o e i a mentions demulcent, nutritive andexigenic properties of the plant. Cosmeticapplications are in hair care, hair loss,hair growth, hair colouring, skincleansing, skin toning and stimulation,and useful for facial skin care. Externallythe seeds are emollient and accelerate thehealing of suppurations andinflammations8,9.

Azadirachta indicaA. Juss.(Neem)

Every part of Neem tree (bark,fruit, seed, flowers, leaves, gum and sap)is used for medicinal and cosmetic

Neem kernels leaves and bark

Fenugreek

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Article

Herbal extracts in herbal

cosmetics-pharmacological

perspective

Various types of formulations arealso been prepared for the same herbalcosmetic for the ease in use. Theformulations like creams, ointments,lotions, suspensions, emulsions, powders,compacts, solutions, etc. can be employedbased on the need. The herbal cosmeticinvolves use of crude drugs in many forms.Crude drug powder, infusion, decoction,tincture, extract or active phytoconstituent

may be used for the formulation purpose.The most widely used form is herbalextracts. The herbal preparation may beused as an active constituent or as anexcipient in the cosmetic formulation. Useof herbs as active constituent is describedin the following section and are used in

well-defined affl ictions. The herbalexcipients may be intended for use asbleaching agent (e.g. azalaic acid, kojicacid), moisturizing agent (e.g. olive oil,

vegetable oil), emollient (e.g. olive oil) oras skin toner (e.g. onion, lime, cherry fruit,rosemary). These excipients may not have

well definable benefits but are still usedas they enhance the appearance of skin19.

Herbs, which are used for theirmedicinal values in treatment of varioussystemic diseases, are also used foralteration of appearance. Variousresearchers have evaluated the herbalextracts for their cosmetic potential. Table2 shows the list of various herbal extracts/phytochemicals and the activities they havebeen screened for and Table 3 enlistsphytochemicals isolated from various plantresources and screened for their cosmeticuse.

Table 2 : List of herbal extracts/phytochemicals screened for skin care products

S. No. Name of the extract/ Botanical name Activity investigated

phytochemical

1 Alfalfa extract Medicago sativaLinn. Antioxidant

2 Aloe veraextract glycoprotein Aloe veraLinn. Wound healing and as emollient, sun-screen3 Alpinia officinarumroot extractAlpinia officinarumHance Antioxidant

4 Peanut extract Arachis hypogaeaLinn. Emollient and anti-inflammatory properties

5 Arbutin Arctostaphylos uva-ursiSpreng. Melanin-inhibiting properties6 Artichoke extract Cynara scolymusLinn. Antioxidant7 Azulene Matricaria recutitaLinn. Coloring agent, antioxidant and anti-

inflammatory

8 Banana lily extract Nymphoides aquatica(J.F. Gmelin) Kuntz Weak antioxidant

9 Bladderwrack extract Seaweed antioxidant, humectant

10 Blue elderberry extract Sambucus caeruleaRaf. Antioxidant

11 Calophyllum extract Calophyllum tacamahacaWilld. Emollient and anti-mutagenic

12 Camellia oil Camellia sasanquaThunb. Emollient

13 Arracaha extract Arracacia xanthorrhizaBancr. Antioxidant

14 Celastrus extract Celastrus paniculatusWilld. Antioxidant15 Chestnut rose extract Rosa roxburghiiSweet. Antioxidant

16 Kukui nut oil Aleurites moluccana(Linn.) Willd. Emollient17 Olive oil Olea europaeaLinn. Anti-ageing, Protection against UV-B damage18 Palm oil Pachypodium lamerei Drake Emollient, antioxidant

19 Phyllanthus extract Phyllanthus emblicaLinn. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

20 Rapeseed oil Brassica napusLinn. Emollient, antioxidant

21 Rose hip oil Rosa moschataBenth. Emollient, antioxidant

22 Rosemary extract Rosmarinus officinalisLinn. Antioxidant

23 Salad burnet extract Sanguisorba officinalisLinn. Antioxidant

24 Sea lettuce extract Ulva lactucaLinn. Anti-inflammatory antioxidant

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Article

S. No. Name of the extract/ Botanical name Activity investigated

phytochemical

25 St. John's wort extract Hypericum perforatumLinn. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory

26 Tannin A Melaleuca alternifoliaCheel Constricting properties on skin27 Tea tree oil Melaleuca alternifolia Cheel Antibacterial in blemishes28 Thyme extract Thymus serpyllumLinn. Potent antioxidant29 Tomato extract (lycopene) Lycopersicon esculentumMill. Weak antioxidant30 Reishi extract Ganoderma lucidum(Fr.) P. Karst. Water-binding for skin31 Bitter gourd extract Momordica charantiaLinn. Antioxidant32 Turmeric extract Curcuma longaLinn. Antioxidant

Table 3 : List of phytochemicals having cosmetic potential

S. No. Phytochemical Source Uses

1 Arbutin Arctostaphylos uva-ursiSpreng. Skin whitening, melanin-inhibiting2 Azulene Matricaria recutitaLinn. Colouring agent, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory3 Carnosic acid Rosmarinus officinalisLinn. Antioxidant

4 Glycyrrhizin Glycyrrhiza glabraLinn. Reduces skin discolorations

5 Glycyrrhitinic acid Glycyrrhiza glabra Anti-inflammatory

6 Nordihydro-guaiaretic acid Larrea tridentateCoult. Anticancer and sunscreen7 Pycnogenol Malus sylvestrisHort.=Malus pumilaMill. Antioxidant

8 Rutin Afrormosia laxifloraHarms Antioxidant and emollient

9 Squalene Bucida spinosaJennings Emollient, antioxidant and immunostimulant

Some herbs like Chamomileinhibit the release of histamine and hasanti-inflammatory properties; ginsengstimulates the biosynthesis of proteins,RNA, and lipids. Ginkgo bilobaLinn.extract was found to locally inducesuperoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalaseenzyme activity in the epidermis aftertopical application and turmeric has anti-inflammatory activity by inhibitingleukotriene formation, inhibiting plateletaggregation and stabilizing neutrophilic

lysosomal membranes. Glycyrrhizin foundin licorice roots inhibits proinflammatoryactivities of prostaglandins andleukotrienes. Thus, the herbs can be usedfor following therapeutic activities:a. Antioxidant properties: It is the

primary reason for use of herbs incosmetics. Several polyphenolics and

flavonoids have been employed incosmetics for their antioxidant andUV blocking potential.Tetrahydrocurcumin has also beenused extensively for its antioxidantproperties6.

b. Anti-inflammatory properties:

These agents are thought to reversethe cutaneous changes associated withageing. Allantoin has been widelyused for this purpose. It promotes thephoto-induced damage, induces cell

proliferation and reduces theradiation-induced inflammation.

Aloe verahas been used in variousskin cosmetics for its anti-inflammatoryand emollient properties7.

c. Topical anaesthetics and anti-

prur it ics: A variety of toiletrycosmetic products, such as hand and

scalp lotions, foot preparations, andafter shave products, employ specificlocal anaesthetic agents to relievelocal discomfort and to reducepruritis. These anaesthetic agents canalso be found in formulations usedin diaper dermatitis, sunburn andacne vulgaris. Most commonlyused compounds are mentholobtained from mint and capsaicinobtained from Capsicum species.Menthol affects the nerve endings to

provide a cooling antipruritic actionwhereas topica l appl icat ion ofcapsaicin is thought to depletesubstance P from local sensory nerveterminals. The substance P isresponsible for dermatologicalinflammation associated withallergens and UV radiation19.

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d. Anticel luli tes: Lipolysis or fatbreakdown may have effect on thecellulites. The alkaloids of Tea likecaffeine, theophylline, via their beta-adrenergic stimulatory action mayinduce the fat breakdown19.

e. Hair loss treatment:Azelaic acidis a saturated dicarboxylic acid foundnaturally in wheat, rye and barley. Itaffects the hornification process of theepidermal cells and helps tonormalize the keratinization of cellsin the skin and hair5.

Although the term herbal extractinherently purports to have beneficial andbenign properties, these extracts may haveadverse reactions in individuals. Forexample, they can be a possible source ofallergenicity in patients presenting

with contact dermatitis21. We, therefore,suggest that the regulatory authoritiesshould attend the issue of ensuringquality and safety of herbal cosmeticproducts immediately before embarking

on the more arduous task of ensuringefficacy.

Conclusion

The present review focuses on thepotential of herbal extracts for cosmeticpurposes. It also makes an attempt to givescientific account of use of herbal extractsin cosmetics. The addition of herbal

extracts for therapeutic or for excipientpurpose requires better understanding ofthe modern ingredients and herbalextracts. More sophisticated formulationscontaining herbal extracts are expected toappear in the future as cosmetics. Thepresent trend towards cosmetics withtherapeutic potency will continue and

12. Anton R, Jiang Y, Weniger B, Beck JP andRivier L, Pharmacognosy of Mi mosatennuiflora (Willd.) Poiret, JEthnopharmacol, 1993, 38 (2-3),

145-152.13. Choi SW, Son BW, Son YS, Park YI, Lee SK andChung MH, The wound healing effect of aglycoprotein fraction isolated from Aloevera, Br J Dermatol, 2001, 145 (4),535-545.

14. Olsen DL, Raub W, Bradley C, Johnson M,Macias JL, Love V and Markoe A, 2001. Theeffect of Aloe vera gel/mild soap versusmild soap alone in preventing skin reactionsin patients undergoing radiation therapy,Oncol Nurs Forum, 2001, 28 (3),543-547.

15. Barnes J, Anderson LA and Phillington JD,Herbal Medicines: A guide for healthcareprofessionals. 2nd Edition, PharmaceuticalPress, London, 2002.

16. Leung AY and Fostor S, Encyclopedia ofcommon natural ingredients used in food,drugs and cosmetics. 2ndEdition, John Wileyand Sons, Inc, New York, 2002.

17. Mortellini R, Foresti R, Bassi R and Green CJ,Curcumin, an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent, induces heme oxygenase-1 and protects endothelial cells against

oxidative stress,

Free Radic Biol Med,2000, 28, 1303-1312.

18. Ammon HPT and Wahl MA, Pharmacology ofCurcuma longa, Planta Med, 1991, 57,1-7.

19. Pieroni A, Cassandra LQ, Villanelli ML, et al,Ethnopharmacognostic survey on the naturalingredients used in folk cosmetics,cosmeceuticals and remedies for healing skindiseases in the inland Marches, Central-Eastern Italy, J Ethnopharmacol, 2004,91, 331-344.

20. Millikan LE, Cosmetology, cosmetics,cosmeceuticals: definitions and regulations,Clin Dermatol, 2001, 19 (4), 371-374.

21. Rousseaux CG and Schachter H, Regulatoryissues concerning the safety, efficacy andquality of herbal remedies. Birth Defects Res.B, Dev Reprod Toxicol, 2003, 68 (6),505-510.

several newer herbs will find place incosmetic world. Newer challenges will bepresented to the regulatory authorities andGovernments needs to make lawsregarding assessment of efficacy and safety.In the end, the newer research will resultin herbal cosmetics of superior qualityand efficacy to offer to consumers.

References

1. European Commission, Directive 93/35 EEC.Official Journal of the European Commission-L Series, 151, 1993.

2. Maggie A, The History of Make-up. TheMcMillan Company, London, 1970.

3. Deshpande VJ, History of chemistry andalchemy in India from pre-historic to pre-modern times.In: History of Indian scienceand technology and culture AD 1000-1800.edited by A Rehman, Oxford Press, New Delhi,1998.

4. Krishnamurthy KH, Ayurvedic technicalstudies and herbal cosmetics of ancientIndia. Vedams Books (Pvt) Ltd., New Delhi,2001.

5. Glaser DA, Anti -aging products and

cosmeceuticals. Facial Plast Surg,Clin N Am,2004, 12, 363-372.

6. Draelos ZD, 2003a, Botanical antioxidants,Cosmetic Dermatol, 2003, 16 (9), 46-49.

7. Draelos ZD, 2003b, Topical anti-inflammatoryagents, Cosmetic Dermatol, 2003, 16(10), 41-42.

8. The British Herbal Pharmacopoeia, BritishHerbal Medicine Association, 1996.

9. Ceres A, The healing power of herbal teas.Thorsons Publishers, London, 1984.

10. Vanka A, Tandon S, Rao SR, Udupa N andRamkumar P, The effect of indigenous Neem,Az ad ir acht a in di ca mouthwash onStreptococcusmutants and lactobacilligrowth,Indian J Dent Res, 2001, 12(3),133-144.

11. Koul O, Isman M and Ketkar C, Propertiesand uses of neem, Azadirachta indica,Can J Bot,1989, 68,1-11.

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