MyJourneytotheCassamance–RudyGreenDuringmysummerbreakIhadtheincredibleopportunitytovisitWestAfricatolearnandstudytherepertoireofthekorawhereitoriginates.Ihavebeenlearningforthepast2yearswithKadialyKouyateandwithhishelpandmanycontactsIchosetostudyinKoldaalongtheCassamanceRiverwherehegrewup.IarrivedinDakar,thecapitalofSenegal,lateatnightinAugustandwasgreetedbymyhostLamineSissokowhoworksasaprimaryschoolteacherandAbdouCissokho,thesonofthefamouskoraplayeroftheCassamance,SoundioulouCissokho(1921–1994).IleftforAbdou’shouseintheheartofthecapitalandwithinminutesofbeinginthecountrythetapeplayerincarblastsout‘Allahlake’performedbySidikiDiabate(senior)andIimmediatelyknewIwasintherightplace.AbdouisanexcellentkoraluthierandIwaswelcomedwith4korasinmyroom(thereweremorekorasthanfurniture!)whichwereonlyaselectionofover20thathehasbeenbuildingsince1988.ThatnightIshowedoffwhatIcouldalreadyplaystartingwith‘Kassoumama’apopularsongbySeckoubaBambinofromthe90’s.JustasIfinishedIcouldhearBakari(Abdou’sson)playingeverysonginthenextroom.ThroughoutmytripeverykoraplayerImetknewalmosttheentirevastkorarepertoirebutwhatismostfascinatingishoweachhastheirownstyleandflairofplayingthepieces,sometimessodifferentitsoundslikeanewpieceentirely.Ispent13hourstravelingina‘septplus’toKoldawithLamineinacrampedcarsharedby8people,ababyand2goats.Thisisthemostpopularwaytotravelasit’squitecheapbutit’safantasticwaytoseethelandscapeofBaobabsandlivelymarkets.

LearningwithVieuxKanouteofKolda

IhadtwomainteachersinKolda,JeanDiabateandthelocalstarVieuxKanoutewhocollectivelytaughtmeover40piecesfromtheoldandmodernrepertoire.Ialsospentalotoftimelearningtheirstylesofimprovising.JeanhasacalmandpreciseapproachwhilstVieuxplaysatlightningspeed.

LearningwithJeanDiabate

Throughoutmywholestaytherewasmanydancepartiesscatteredacrosstheneighbourhoodthatarealwaysgreatfun.EveryonewilldressinabouboumadefromtheAfricanprintfabricsbeingsoldinthemarket.Mostofthemusicbeingplayedonmp3swasfromKoldaorSenegaleseartistswithafewSidikiDiabate(Mali)tunesthrowninthemix.OneofthepartieswasaliveperformancewithbothVieuxandJeanperformingandIwasinvitedonstagetoperformafewsongsonkorawiththeband.IwasalsoinvitedtoplaykoraonthelocalradiostationNafooreFM.Itwasdefinitelythehighlightofthetriptoplayinfrontofalargecrowdwhoweredancingandsingingalongtothechoruses.FromthenoneveryoneIpassedonthestreetknewwhoIwas.InmysparetimeIwouldplayfootballwiththekidsorthelocalfootballteamICReveonthepitch50yardsfromthecompound.EveryothermorninghundredsoflocalswouldgathertowatchRevecompeteintheKoldaleague.Onthe7thweekLamine’swifeFamagavebirthtoababygirl.KeepingwithtraditionofnamingthebabyafteryourguestshewasnamedFloraIsotoSissoko,Florabeingthenameofmygrandmother.Atthenamingceremonyallofthefamilyandfriendsgatheredandenjoyedaricepuddingbreakfasttogetheraftertheyhadofficiatedthename.Thewomensang‘YeJaliyaDa’apraisesongforJalimusicians,whichwasalsothefirstsongIhadlearntatSOAS.ThankstoeveryonewhohelpedmeorganisemytripandaspecialthankyoutotheJohnTaylorMusicTravelGrantforthefundingtomakethistriphappen.