Modern Age1960-2006

Overview Globalizing economy Trade agreements, outsourced production Identity Politics: 1964 Civil Rights Act, sexual revolution 1964 JFK killed, 1968 MLK Media increase-60s television, 90s internet

Music-based movements-street style E-commerce, TARGET markets

60s 1959 PANTYhose Protests: Cuba, Mid-East, Vietnam

Travel, visibility, awareness (eclectic) Avant-garde: Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin,

Yves St. Laurent (nontraditional materials) Youthquake: Quant-MOD; Twiggy-

supermodel 1964 Beatles

60s contd. 1966 Star Trek (SPACE)

Courreges, moon girl (trouser suits, & YSL) Givenchy, Hepburn (1961) Pucci, Op Art (also Warhol, Mondrian-YSL) Oleg Cassini, Jackie Kennedy

American Fashion in limelight

Hippies: solidarity w/working class Like French Revolution! Ethnic, Rock (Hendrix, Joplin), “Hair”, Woodstock (69)

African garments/hairstyles: symbols of resistance

70s Star Wars (1977); Saturday Night Fever, DISCO

(Halston); Annie Hall, androgynous; Shaft, blaxploitation

Glam Rock (Elton John, Bowie, Cooper) Punk-Vivienne Westwood, Sex Pistols Designer Jeans, leisure suits, t-

shirt as social statement Japan economic growth-designers (into 80s)-Kenzo,

Yamamoto, Kawakubo, Miyake Product Licensing for mass merchants

JCPenney/Halston

80s Economic stability (Reagan/Thatcher)

Consumerist Spirit Casual wear boom

Donna Karan, Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein

Fitness craze, Flashdance, 1983 Sports brands, branding

Gaultier-Madonna, Underwear as Outerwear Wealthy/royal fashion leaders, Lady Di (1981)

Designer Decade, 80s contd. Marc Jacobs, Lacroix, Thierry Mugler, Versace,

Lagerfeld (for Chanel) Armani-yuppies, American Gigolo

Power suitsOther film/TV

Top Gun (85), Wall Street (87) Dallas (78-91), Dynasty (81-89), Miami Vice

(84-89) MTV (1981), marriage-music/TV/fashion

90s Globalization

1989 Fall of Berlin; 1991 Dissolution of Soviet Union; 1991 Gulf War; 1993/1995 NAFTA, WTO

Global retail Walmart “Glocalizing” products for varied markets Automatic Inventory Control, CAD

Music + Grunge: flannel, cargo pants, vintage

Anna Sui Also Goth-black, platforms…body modifications

spread/mainstream

Hip-Hop: oversized, branding/logos Phat Farm, Sean John, Kangol

Postmodern/deconstruction; recycling/historicism Helmut Lang, Margiela, Galliano, McQueen, Ozbek, Dolce &

Gabbana Brand Reinvention: Gucci, Prada Designer as celebrity: Mizrahi, Ford

(Not on test)2000 new millenium, world balance Terrorist attacks 2001, 2004, 2005 Patriotism China, economic power/manufacturing Cuban-Narciso Rodriguez

Lebanese, Elie Saab Chinese-American, Vera Wang

Partnerships Proenza Schouler, Heatherette Diesel, Etro

Technology in fashion accessories

iPod ready jeans Techno textiles

UV, performance E-commerce and 2005 no quotas Product placement

Designer placement, “Sex and the City” YOUTH styles, conspicuous, “bling”, metrosexual

Music/designers: Stefani, JLo Eco everything-environmentally responsible,

socially responsible retail