Modelando Uma Lamaborguini No Rhino 3d (English)

8/8/2019 Modelando Uma Lamaborguini No Rhino 3d (English)

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RHINO3D 2.0Skill Level: Medium Advanced User

Lamborghini Miura Car modeling Tutorial

Link to some Blueprints

http://smcars.nd4spdworld.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=39

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Section 1

Research and Blueprints

Inserting Blueprint image for tracing with Control point Curves.

This may take a few minutes, after it is created you should scale it up or down to match the dimensions ifyou can find them, if not dont worry about it.

Overall length 171.6 inches

Overall width 69.2 inchesOverall height 41.5 inches

Wheelbase 98.4 inches

Track (front and rear) 55.6 inches

Dont forget to get a bunch of images of the car your modeling,, or better yet get a model of it, this shouldhelp in some of the more complex areas that can not be seen in the Blueprints (PLANS).

Setup a few layers, such as Body,Trim,Windows,Tires,Wheels,Tail-Pipe and lights

The layers for the lights may have many parts, I would make a few layers, such as (TL=Tail-light) TL-Bulb,TL-Red-Glass, (HL=Head-Lights) HL-Glass HL-Chrome, and so on and on,, such as the orange blinkers

have parts to them.

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Place the JPG or other image file as background in top View Port.


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Create Layers for your model and a layer for your Blueprint curves. We will lock this layer later when we

start to model.


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This is what my traced blueprint looks like, I kept is pretty basic. I traced half the car then mirrored it, but

watch out for the windshield wipers and any other items that might differ from each side of the car

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I now rotated the views to match the viewports and moved the rear view to the other side of the car,, toward

the rear,, duh =D

I then scaled the car up, I drew a line off the bottom of the front wheel quadrant, and then went 98.4 units

toward the rear tire, I can see that my car is too small, select the traced blueprint and scale it from the fronttire quadrant and reference the rear tire quadrant and go to the end point of the 98.4 unit (inches) line we

drew. Now the car should be to approximate scale.


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Your screen should end up something like this, in the top view I can see the top of the car and the right viewI can see the back and front of the car and the front view I can see the side of the car. Works best for me this

way, rotate how ever you like them to layout in your viewports.


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Basic Lofted form

This section should give you the basics and understanding where of modeling a car with Lofts and other

surfaces. Pulling CV points and adding in Knots adjusting Knot weights.

We will create half the car with lofts from front to back cross section, I will start off with a block that will

contain the mid-section of the car, No A-pillers, Roof top or glass.

After the main portion is lofted out and the front and rear section of the car is created, by pulling CV points

to match the blue prints.

I then will now continue to add CV points and pull the upper half of the car out of the lower half. The will

easily create a smooth continuous body structure. It will is most cases be too smooth. You will need to

adjust the CV points around the bottom of the A-piller and around any glass areas. Look mostly where the

edge of the glass will be and be sure that it stays fairly flat, with a slight curve from top to bottom. You will

not want it to have a bend at the top of bottom of the glass, in most cases car windows roll up and down. It

might be a obvious to some people but keep it in mind. I see it happen all the time. Even on some of my

cars.

When half the car shape is modeled out save the file as title-version-1.3dm

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Create a new layer for LOFTS, make it a bright color, I changed the Curves layer so the blueprint would bea dark gray color. The loft curve will be easier to see in the magenta color I chose.

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Here is the basic cross section that I made with a Control Point Curve.Only half the car will be drawn.


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We will copy around 8 of these and loft them into a surface. Going from front to rear of the car. They are

placed around each wheel arch and at peek changes in the roof top, We can add more of them as neededlater.

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This is the end result of the loft, now we have something to deform and point pull the car into the shape wewill want.

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I start with the nose of the car and start pulling points into the shape of the mouth opening of the car. I thenuse the Shear command and the Move command to adjust the points.

I selected the row of points that were the group next to the end ones I was editing and smooth them (0.2) in

the xyz, not the bottom points or the ones on the center line of the car, I just want them to flow closer to the

mouth opening.


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I adjusted the front point and lowered a few of the top points to match the blueprint.Shear, move and smooth was used around the outer edge, between the upper and lower lip area of the mouth,

I trying to keep this area smooth but still conform with the blueprints. I shade the viewport from time to timeto check the surface smoothness.


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I now adjusted the rear and the dip in the middle, Moving and shear worked well here.

Most of the side view is pulled into place.


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Now Im going to add about 2 rows of CVs around the front of the windshield area, so I dont deform the

wheel arch. *Only added CVs in the V direction and without symmetry.


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Selecting these points and moving them up to the rooftop area. I used the Scaled 1D, pick near the roof top

on the blueprint and then the bottom area where the points are perpendicular. Then Scale them back to the

top of the roof,, you could use the move command here but doing it with the scale 1d command it will levelout the points in a flat plane.


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After I scaled them upward I pulled (Moved) the outer ones to the peek outer edge of the rooftop.


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From the front view your will notice that the outer rail of the roof need to be moved inward so the roof and

side window tilts or tapers inward.


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The rear wheel body flare needs to bulge outward like on the plan. Selecting the outer body points I will pull

the flare outward using the move command.


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I noticed I needed another set of CVs going from the front to the rear, the body was blending to much

around the rear wheel flare


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I added another set of CVs across the front the windshield. I moved points to match the blueprints, Its a bit

tricky in this area. Make sure is rounds out to the middle and adjust any of the rooftop points so they flow in

the same directions, keeping a 2 sets of points near the A-Piller for a rounded edge around the top of the roof

side rail.


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Another hard spot is the rear fender edge, there is a hard edge from the bottom of the side window to the rear

over the rear wheel arch, I added point weights that row to make a nice edge.

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Front fender needs to be shaped to flow like a bubble around there and meet the hood area, these are areasthat you might need to examine from photos, I used them allot to understand how it works, same with the

rear fender

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Little bit more point pulling around the bottom of the A-piller and rear fender.

Keep pulling points little it matches what your after, I added more CVs from front to rear near bottom of

the front bulge, about where those grills are. This is the complex part, but also fun, keep pulling points until

your happy its done. Save versions as you go.


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I now Mirror it, and merged the two halves. I notice I was having a hard edge down the middle so I added a

row of CVs with symmetry on, so each side gets a row, I wanted them near the middle so I had them blendout into the rest of the surface, then I made the center upper edge a periodic edge, this will close the object at

the top edge or bottom edge, I wouldnt worry to much about the bottom, but I would do it anyways. This

just smooths the two halves together better.


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Adding Details 1

This section is mostly on splitting the wheel arches and understanding methods to splitting.

Mirror and merge your 2 halves and Save the file as title-version-2.3dm

If you find problems down the road with the basic shape you can go back and change it and merge the file

back into the newer versions.

We are going to add wheel well openings and any other body deviations, because our body surface will becreated from lofts I try to keep it to the basic shape of the car.

Its always a good thing to check your wheel arches a few times, most cars have a curves side from top to

bottom, not all of them but there are quite a few that do. You will notice mostly on the front of the car that

some have little flairs over the wheel arch, these flairs are mostly there for when you look at the car from the

top view so you cant see the tire, also would be safe to say it keeps any water from escaping the wheel well

and splashing up onto the windows. Cars without these types of covers/ lips/ flairs should be looked at

closer, because the top of the arch needs to be flat with the tire or perpendicular to the ground plane. If it

exceeds that then you will have that improper look of the car looking kind cut funny and youll be able tosee the tire from the top view.


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Also take note that when splitting out that wheel arch opening that you dont cut/split into the other bodypanels like the hood. You may have a hood that dips down really low. Using a curve projection will help in

situations like these. Projection can help in checking all sorts of areas and testing what direction you shouldsplit from. Like making the split out for the windshield will tend to take a few directions to get correct,

sometimes from the top or the side. I tend to stick with the top view of the car for the windshield and the

side view for the side windows.

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I started with patching the rear of the car, I made it not tangent to the body surface

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After I patched the rear, I move the rear body edge but selecting the CVs and moved it about 2 inches awayfrom the patch surface. I then scaled the patch surface down a little.

I then used a BLEND from the edge of the rear of the car body and the patch. I adjusted the BLEND so itwas rounding into the patch surface and flattened out into the body.


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Now take the Patch surface and scale it 1d from the middle to the top, scaling it away from that blend we

just made, and then do the same in the other direction, this is a quick way to offset the surface. I then moved

it about 0.25 inch or so into the rear.


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Now blend those two edges from the blend to the patch. The makes the rear slightly recessed into the body, I

noticed this from the photos I had.


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Now its starting to look like a car, I split the body and now I save my file called split surface body. Now let

the fun begin.


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Now create a curve that follows the bottom edge of the door, as seen in the blue prints but make sure itpasses over the wheel arches edges. Offset the curve about 0.3 for the seam that will be created there. This

will make the belly of the car separate from the top half.


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Now create 2 curves for the rear and 2 for the front of this seam, I tried to make it like a lip that round into

the body edge and on the other end rotate upward so you can not see into the car through the seam area. The

use the edge of the body for a rail and sweep that with the two edges, using the Sweep 1 Rail command.

NOTE:After the body was split delete the little trim pieces as you go.


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You can see the upper and lower Sweep 1 Rails.


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Do the same thing with the rear door seam and engine bay seam. I offset the blue print lines, they passed

through the top edge and lower split edge. Making it easy to just offset and split them.


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Create a key shape for these 2 seams, like this shape in yellow, this will require using Sweep 2 Rails to make

the seam filler. Do this for both Door and engine bay seams.

This key is the profile curve for the 2 rails that are the two edges of the body.

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Now go through and split the window and doors out using the same method


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I went through and split the windshield from the top view and split the door and windows with offset curves.Then I moved the side window glass into the body about 0.5 inches or so. And I used a blend from the door

edge and the window edge on both the windshield and side windows.


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Here I changed the window area to there new layers for the windows. And set those layers to render indifferent colors

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Section 4

Adding Details 2

This section will explain Seams for Body cuts and Body trim

Splitting and Rails are going to be popular here

This is where most of the work comes into play. For creating seams and other body cuts you will need to use

a offset set of curves that will either be projected or split the surface from what ever view that works best.

Such as the doors I use a gap of about 0.3.

I will then use these new surface edges for Rail surfaces and blends.

We will also make head-lights and tail-lights and other features. Sometimes seams and headlights and tailslights are made from the same split surfaces.

Links

Short Tutorial with body made from Rails

http://www.renderosity.com/messages...Message=1030882

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Well after a few more splitting and copying of the rear louver grill. I made a copy on top of the old set,rotated the copied pieces and rotated them, then I lofted from each stair step from the rotated one to the old

splitted one. I then deleted the other ones.

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Now to make the recessed area in front of the windshield, this area contains the mounting for the wipers. I

used the curves from the blueprint, but before I did that I turned the control points on and used the Snap to

point and re-drew the curves as one, because they were mirrored curves before and I wanted them to be an

nice continuous curve.

Split the front of the car with this new curve and copy the recessed section down around 1 or 2 inches, then

blend or loft from the top edged to the bottom edges, then when done with the closing off of that area, delete

the old top surface. I used the edges of the deleted old surface edges for the loft and blend.


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Time to create the headlights, I notice that the big opening in the body panel is oval on the top view and

round in the front, I hope to project the circle in the front view and get the basic oval result in the top view.

As you can see in yellow the blueprints curve didnt project as I would have liked, maybe the plans are not

perfect or I maybe off in the model. Ill go with projection of the oval shape in the top blueprint. Because I

want it to look more like that, not to worried about the shape in the front view.


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Now I projected it from the top view and it really sucks,, my car is not flowing in the contour of the original.

So I must say I really suck at remaking classics, maybe Ill blame it on not looking at the full scope of the

model and writing this damn tutorial.. hehehe, Im gonna cheese out here and go back to the last step and

project the circles on the front view and keep going as if nothing ever happened. (This only happens in

Tutorial land),


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Make the little ring that will be the Chrome part that goes around the glass l enses. The I will use the shear

command in the side view of the car. Hoping that the ring stays Circular in the top view. It should then make

it look oval in the front view. You might also build the glass bubble for the bulb, before shearing, I think itmight work better.


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Now you can see that the glass and chrome ring still look circular in the top view and oval in the front, just

from using the Shear command in the side view. I moved it into better position after the shearing of thesurfaces.


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Now its time to make a blend from the bottom of the chrome ring and the outer edge of the headlight socket

in the body of the car.


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It should end up looking something like this. I do this allot when making headlights on my concepts.


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Create the fins/grill that goes inside the outlet,, I will make a extruded shape and fake this area frommemory. I copied them an inch apart then sheared them to fit into the body. My body dipped down into the

middle too much, I think this area would have been flatter on the original car. I suck once again,, =/

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Once again I noticed something different in the photos than in the blueprints. A black bumper wedged into

the opening or mouth in the front of the car. I used a patch that rounded out. Then I scaled it smaller than the

opening and did a blend between the gap of the two edges.

Im going to end it here. This should get you far enough that you should start to be able to make your owndecision about how to go around modeling some of the more basic parts.

The rear tail lights are quite simple,, you could do a few things project the blue prints onto the rear surfaceand build them from there.

Ill make another tutorial on how to make car seats. Im sure you are smart enough to figure out how to

make wheels.


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Modelando Uma Lamaborguini No Rhino 3d (English)