Log 2012 20121015

tarilian

Mediterranean Voyage

Cruising from Menorca to Dalmatia

Log 2012

Menorca, Sardinia, Sicily, Ionian Italy, South Adriatic Italy,

Central Dalmatia

Menorca to Dalmatia – Cruise Log 2012 Page 2 of 102

Part 1 May/June : Menorca to Sicily page 7 July : Palermo and surroundings page 37

Part 2 August/September : Palermo to Croatia page 51

Disclaimer IPR: All texts and photographs in this document belong to Wilhelm Hartl, 40 Prebend Mansions, London W4 2LU. Web: www.whartl.com (2012) This document represents the personal view of the author at the time of writing. No responsibility will be accepted in relation to the information provided. None of the material must be used for commercial purposes.


Introduction to the Log 2012

In 2010 I started thinking about taking our motorboat Tarilian, a used Trader 535, from the UK to the Central Mediterranean and Adriatic Sea under its own steam, as an alternative to commercial transportation services.

The idea was to take our time, as a cruising couple, and, as far as practically possible, do sensible coastal day journeys and enjoy seeing interesting places en route.

The preferred route was around the Iberian peninsula, and then via the major Mediterranean islands rather than taking detours along continental coasts.

Given the periods of time we wanted to spend on board, the journey would be done over two seasons.

I was aware that it would mean a major effort in preparation and execution, as well as costs, but the time seemed right and we expected to gain valuable and unique experience.

In our first cruising season, 2011, we took our boat from her home port of Falmouth in Cornwall to the Biscay, around the Iberian peninsula and via Gibraltar into the Mediterranean Sea. Then along the Spanish Costas and to the Balearic islands, eventually arriving in Menorca. Tarilian was dry berthed in Mahon over winter.

In 2012 we continue our journey East across the Mediterranean: From Menorca to Sardinia, around its North and Northeast coasts, then straight down to Sicily.

In the final part of the journey we visit the Aeolian islands and Sicily’s Etna region. From there follow the Ionian coast to the Strait of Otranto, and along Italy’s Adriatic coast up to the ‘spur’ of the ‘boot’, and across to Croatia our final destination.

In early September the journey is successfully completed on schedule, Tarilian is berthed in Central Dalmatia near Primosten.


Part 1 Menorca - Palermo

Part 2 Palermo - Primosten


Cruising from Menorca to Dalmatia, Log 2012

the figures

Mahon - Palermo

Nautical miles logged 667 Fuel 3518 ltr, or 5.3 ltr/nm Engine hours 74 Cruising speed 9.5 -11 kn

Palermo – Primosten Nautical miles logged 884 Fuel 4312 ltr or 4.9 ltr/nm Engine hours 106 Cruising speed 9 - 11 kn --------------------------------------

Total for 2012 season, Mahon - Primosten

Nautical miles logged 1551 Fuel consumption 7830 ltr or 5.05 ltr/nm Engine hours 180

About “Tarilian” Make/model Trader 535 Style Trawler style flybridge cruiser with aft cabin Hull GRP, semi-displacement Year built 2000 Length overall 54 ft / 16.5m Beam 14 ft / 4.6 m Draught 5 ft / 1.5m Displacement ca. 25 tons Engines 2x Volvo TAMD73 EDC Diesel .


Log 2012 – Mileage Plan (nm)

Day Destination daily log

since refuel

total 2012

comment

May-07 Mahon 12 12 Sea trial. Flag Spain May-08 Trip around Menorca N, Cala

Pregonda 52 0 64 refuelled 400 ltr

May-09 Mahon – Alghero (Sardinia) overnight 191 191 255 Flag Italy May-10 Alghero Marina S.Elmo 191 255 Alghero attractive May-11 Alghero – Stintino, Marina Stintino 38 229 293 May-12 Castelsardo, Marina di Frigiano 23 252 316 attractive May-13 Castelsardo - Bonifacio 34 286 350 attractive. Flag France May-14 Bonifacio 0 350 refuelled 1520 ltr May-15 Bonifacio - St Teresa Gallura 14 14 364 Flag Italy May-17 S.Teresa G.- La Maddalena, Cala

Gavezzi 19 33 383 tour around Maddalena

nature reserve May-18 Maddalena - Marina di Portisco 18 51 401 May-20 Portisco - Olbia, Marina di Olbia 16 67 417 May-22 Olbia 67 417 Flight London

0 417 refuelled 290 ltr Jun-09 Olbia - Palermo (Sicily) overnight 250 250 667 Jun-10 Palermo, Marina VillaIgiea 250 667 refuelled 1308 ltr

0 667 Flight London Palermo visit, July: 0 667

Jul-12 Palermo-Mondello-Palermo 14 14 681 Jul-13 Palermo-I.delle Femmine-Palermo 28 42 709 Jul-15 Palermo-Seno di S.Elia-Palermo 19 61 728

61 728 Flight London Aug-10 Palermo, Marina Villaigiea 0 61 728 Aug-11 Cefalu, Marina Services Cefalu

(Marina di Cefalu) 35 96 763 attractive

Aeolian Islands: 96 763 attractive Aug-12 I.Salina S.Marina Salina, via I.Filicudi 60 156 823 around N of Filicudi Aug-13 Lipari, Marina Lunga. Via I.Panareia 21 177 844 anchorage C.Millazzo Aug 14 Milazzo Marina Nettuno, via I.Volcano 27 204 871 anchorage Formaggio,

P.Levante Aug 15 Riposto Marina Porto del Etna 62 266 933 safe marina

0 0 933 refuel 1191 ltr Aug 16 Riposto - Naxos Giardini - Riposto 28 28 961 Aug-19 Riposto - Rocella Ion. 72 100 1033 Aug-20 Rec.Ion. - Crotone 65 165 1098 Aug-21 Crotone - Santa Maria di Leuca 71 236 1169 Aug-22 S.Maria di Leuca - Brindisi 66 302 1235

0 1235 refuelled 1542 ltr Aug-23 Brindisi - Bisceglie, Bisceglieapprodi 78 78 1313 Aug-24 Bisceglie - Vieste, moorings Darsena 42 120 1355 Aug-25 Vieste - Komiza/Vis 71 191 1426 attractive. Flag Croatia Aug-28 Vis -Seget 46 237 1472 via Pakleni Is. Aug-29 Seget - Kremik 23 260 1495 Aug-31 Rogosniza, Marina Frapa 7 267 1502 Sep-02 Zlarin via Kaprije 27 294 1529 Zlarin attractive Sep-03 Kremik 17 311 1546 Sep-06 Kremik 5 316 1551 refuelled 1579 ltr

Flight London total fuel 7830 ltr


tarilian

Mediterranean Voyage Cruising from Menorca to Dalmatia, Log 2012

Part 1 Menorca to Palermo, May/June 2012

MENORCA page 8

MAHON to ALGHERO page 10 SARDINIA’S NORTHWEST COAST page 13 BONIFACIO page 16 LA MADDALENA page 22 THE COSTA SMERALDA page 26 OLBIA page 29 OLBIA to PALERMO page 33

Holiday in Palermo, July 2012 page 37


PART I MENORCA TO SICILY

April 2012. Preamble

The winter is over, certainly in Menorca; I arrive on April 26th to check the boat and the status of the maintenance works.

After sitting high and dry in Pedro’s boat yard for six month, Tarilian goes back into the water on April 27th. I return to London the next day. The flight inconveniently takes 2 stops, same as coming here; there are no direct flights before May.

May 2012. MAHON to OLBIA via Sardinia’s Northwest Coast and La Maddalena

May 1, Tuesday. Journey to Mahon. Our travel is made unpleasant by having to get up early, taxi ride to Gatwick in appalling rain, and then a full 5 hours’ wait for departure because of a technical problem. Eventually the aircraft gets replaced. In Spain May 1st is a holiday. I have covered historic Mahon and its extraordinary natural harbour in my Log 2011. May 2 – 7, In and around Mahon We meet Predo’s team. Tarilian gets cleaned, final repair and maintenance jobs are completed. Tarilian on Pedro’s mooring, in the background the San Francisco convent in Old Town


The boat yard in Mahon operates the same way as they do in Britain: Although there has been a schedule with several months’ notice, some of the works are delayed and only get completed a few days after the deadline. Anyway, the time passes comfortably; one afternoon we make a trip to Ciutadella, the historic capital of Menorca, by car, and visit an interesting talayotic settlement. May 8, Tuesday Cala Pregonda and no boats The boat is ready and we take it out to the North coast, target Cala Pregonda. The purpose of this trip is also to give the machinery a run after the winter break and before the long crossing to Sardinia. All works fine. The way to Pregonda is easy in SE winds, on the way back we get some swell and spray.

Close to Cabo es Nord we receive a DSC call from Radio Menorca, asking whether we can help with a Mayday relay call in French; we talk to Palma coastguard, but are unable to help: There are no boats


around us at all, and we had no VHF contact. Later we are passed by a sailing yacht which does not show any signs of distress. Afterwards, I am impressed to find that the rescue coordination people, who must have located us by AIS, had even called our sat phone (but we did not hear it from the fly bridge). Cala Pregonda, at this time of the year without any boats, is an impressing rocky cove and beach, but not ‘deserted’ any longer; there is a building on the W side, directly on the beach, and apparently some more in construction. May 9, Wednesday Crossing to Sardinia We have taken our time, and the weather forecast for our crossing to Sardinia is very good. Lluis, a likeable Menorquin student and experienced sailor, will accompany us on the overnight trip. He joins us at 12:00. First we visit the fuel station to top up (fuel is cheaper here than in Italy), then venture out of port and start our crossing towards Alghero, a straight 77˚ course of 190 nm. Adiós a España....

Cruising conditions are favourable, the sky is cloudless, a perfect golden sunset in a purple horizon is followed by a few dark hours until the moon rises by midnight. During the dark hours one cannot make out the horizon, so it is easy to mistake a small star close to the horizon with a far away boat. Fortunately, the reading of the radar, or actually zero-reading, turns out reliable every time. During the first part of the journey we do not encounter any vessel; then one boat, maybe a fishing boat, with AIS. Closer to Alghero, a few more vessels. At 4:15 the light of Capo Caccia gets in sight, in fact another uncharted light on a hill behind was seen earlier.


As the horizon ahead of us starts showing the first day light, the profile of Sardinia shows up, more than 35 nm away. Buongiorno Bella Sardinia!

A brief scary moment arises when we have to avoid a large black object in the water ahead of us, seemingly a buoy, but does not look like a fishing net marker. For Jane, sadly, this night cruise (her first!), although done in the best of weather conditions, is a terrifying experience due to the constant engine noise and vibrations, which are felt much worse in the darkness than during the day, and do not allow her to find rest. Furthermore, the cool night air and extensive dew make it impractical to stay on the fly bridge for long, which is usually a comfortable place. On reflection, my advice from this experience is to throttle back to displacement speed (8.5-9 kn) during the night hours from 23:00 to 6:00. The trip may take an hour or so longer overall, but this does not matter, and it might make a difference for the passengers. May 10, Thursday Arrival in Alghero At 9:00 we arrive at Alghero harbour and berth Tarilian in marina Sant Elmo, a small laid back marina near the entrance just under the old castle. The day is spent relaxing and then walking around the large harbour, and the pleasant walled Old Town. Some place names in Alghero remind one of a history with moorish Spain; today, it seems, both countries stay clearly separated in ‘their’ parts of the Med. No direct connection links, sea or air, between Alghero and Menorca. Have good dinner with Lluis at one of the inviting restaurants on the fortification walls overlooking the sea. The weather is comfortable, warm early summer, a pleasant welcome to Italy. In general, day temperatures have been about 22-23 ˚C, and night lows at the start 13-14˚, then 16˚C. The sun in May is strong, there is a real need for sun cream; the sea, however, is still too cold for swimming.


Alghero, moored under the fortifications

View from castle NW over Alghero’s sizeable harbour, small St Elmo moorings in the foreground.


May 11, Friday Sardinia’s North West tip and a lonely pre-seasonal harbour. We say thankyou and goodbye to Lluis who is taking his flight home via Barcelona. On our first full day in Sardinia we plan to go 38 nm North to the small village of Stintino, which has got a suitable marina. Near Alghero we go round the steep cliffs of Capo Caccia, which is part of a national park, and notice tripboats which are visiting the ‘Neptune cave’ nearby. The dramatic setting of Capo Caccia lighthouse

Proceeding to the NW end of Sardinia we take the shortcut East through the Fornelli passage, which needs manual navigation to pass it in safe depth; it has beautiful emerald water in the shallow parts.


Just S of the passage, and SE of the Pelosa passage and the Ancora Yacht club, we anchor. This is the first trial of our new Rocna anchor, it appears to work well. A little N wind has got up and we berth in Stintino with a little difficulty, not just due to the wind from abeam but an awkward mooring line which seems to be entangled or caught, it points steep down and cannot be tightened properly. The shore power installation here is not first class either, I have to try a few sockets before I find one which works. Anyhow, the marina is friendly and laid back. Outside Stintino, it has 2 harbours for local boats, but visiting yachts go to the marina (right)

We have dinner on board and later take a walk to the village. The latter turns out to be a waste of time: It takes 20+ minutes to get to a place which is completely without life at that time. We have coffees in a harbour restaurant, where only two other tables are taken. Next morning we discover, that, instead of walking around deserted areas, one should take the dinghy right across the marina to the Porto Minore, the small old fishing harbour. Porto Minore entrance. During harbour tour next morning, we are offered a mooring at the quay on the right (but we are already on the move further on).


May 12, Sat Sunset on a romantic castle After the disappointment of last evening I talk to the skipper of a sailing yacht next to us, with a German crew. He recommends Castelsardo; they have also been to Bonifacio, S.Teresa Gallura and Maddalena. Castelsardo is only 22 nm away, seems a bit short for a day trip, but the marina had been on my plan anyway. Castelsardo is quite differently situated. It has developed from an old fishing town to a small resort on the slopes of a steep hill, with a romantic looking castle on top.

The historic part on the hill has been developed for tourists, but on a pleasing local level. The views over the sea and towards the Asinara island are well worth the walk up the winding road and alleys.


An unexpected detail of sophistication are in-pavement blue LED lights along the main road.. Have dinner at the Fo-Fo Hotel restaurant near the harbour, which is fine; but in hindsight we might fancy one of the eateries in the more picturesque Old Town. May 13, Sun Carnival in Bonifacio, the French version of fiesta Having just been to a castle we want more of them, and decide to cross to Corsica to visit Bonifacio. The wind is W force 4-5 and expected to increase, so we leave at 9:00 and reach the spectacular entrance of Bonifacio harbour before noon.

We have been warned that there is no mooring assistance before 16:00 (on Sundays?), but there is plenty of space and we can choose where to tie up. So we tie up alongside an empty pontoon. The day is bright and the sun warm. The cliff-top historic town can be easily reached by walking but we decide to try the tourist ‘train’, the usual setup of a few open carriages drawn by a small truck designed as mock steam engine; once going uphill, the ‘train’ has to stop and make way for a horse drawn carriage with Wild West themed people on it. We learn that there is a carnival in town today, and that this is the first of a parade of themed and music carriages going round town. There is only one road winding through town, so the ‘train’ is soon getting stuck, and can’t go back to the harbour either. We get off and watch a part of the parade. We want to be back to the harbour around 16:00 in case we are asked to move the boat; so, when its time, we walk down over stairs and through the fortification walls.


The Carnival parade is not only for children, but I liked this one, for example ...

Eventually, we do not need to move the boat after all. Have dinner in a harbour side bistro a bit away from the main centre of the marina. May 14, Monday Dramatic cliffs and more sightseeing Bonifacio. We need to decide whether to leave for La Maddalena, or Maria Teresa di Gallura, or to stay another day in Bonifacio. Decide for the latter in view of the cloudy and windy first part of the day.

It turns out a worthwhile stay; in the afternoon the sun is back and we stroll to the amazing cliffs and the picturesque Upper Town, a main tourist resort with lots of restaurants tucked in the narrow roads of the historic centre.


Bonifacio’s white cliffs, and spectacular setting of the old town


The harbour has filled up, for the first time, with many sailing boats arriving. I am a bit concerned about our ‘unsociable’ way of mooring alongside, but cannot change it now, as there is not enough space between pontoons to turn the boat stern-to.

In the evening the wind stops, finally, but it will get up tomorrow, and a westerly gale is expected to start later on the following day. May 15, Tuesday Back to Sardinia under the threat of a gale A bright start of the day. We get ready to leave berth before 9:00, but have to wait until a trip boat clears the fuel quay. Refuel (cheaper than in Italy!), and get out of the harbour. The West wind is already 10-15 kn. We do a short detour to look at the small craggy Lavezzi islands, a nature park SW of Bonifacio, just off the Corsica coasts. Not an area which invites boats like ours to try to anchor today.


The wind forecast for the Bonifacio strait is West increasing to gale force 8 during the following night. Turning to Santa Teresa Gallura, we need to go against 15-20 kn of wind and about 1m swell, which sends spray over the fly bridge. But it’s only 5 nm to go. Once inside the estuary, the water is calm and surprisingly emerald; St Teresa harbour is a deep inlet and offers lots of boat moorings. It seems a laid back and quiet place. Berthing fees are reasonable.

Italian harbour speed limit 3 kn (5,4 km/h). Well and good in small ports and tight marinas, but no ship crosses large harbours at that speed, certainly not commercial ships. Just an example for Italy’s culture of tight regulations which in practise remain unenforced.

Around St Teresa harbour are some low rise holiday apartment developments (seem empty), and three of four restaurants - but only one of them is open at this time of the year. The wind feels unpleasant. In the evening we walk to St Teresa village which extends on the hill above the harbour (about 20 mins walk); it is sizeable and modern, looks well maintained, but we do not see anybody in the streets. Have simple dinner in restaurant/pizzeria Azzurro on the way.


May 16, Wednesday Sitting out the wind in port Lazy day in harbour. I walk to the village in the afternoon, do some shopping and picture taking. The Med can be more than a millpond. Also, a ferry can look greedy and vegetation prickly...

Tarilian in Santa Maria Gallura marina. A little nuraghic castle sits on the hill the other side. Moored safely


Dinner in the marina restaurant, which is mostly empty out of season, but the owner makes a great effort to please guests and we feel welcome. Over the afternoon and evening the wind finally quietens, the night is almost calm. May 17, Thursday Off to the Archipelago Sunny day with little wind, air temperature cooler (less than 20˚). We leave Santa Teresa harbour.

Short journey from Santa Teresa towards the Maddalena archipelago, still swell of 1m in exposed places. We go past little Budelli island, a protected zone, and try to get a peek of the small ‘pink beach’ (as hailed in all tourist brochures), a strict no-go zone for boats. Budelli, Spiaggia Rosa. The area of the pink(?) beach is sectioned off with ropes and buoys


We are amazed by the clear emerald coloured water in rocky surroundings. Attention sailors, being distracted by watching the scenery it’s quite easy to get closer to the very shallow parts than intended. The emerald glow of Deadman’s passage lures the marvelling navigator into the shallow...

... and, when he turns under the screams of his depth alarm, the sea sticks out horrible rocky teeth all around him to get his ship.

Some of the small beaches, which are now empty, might be nice to approach by dinghy in summer (provided of course, that this is allowed). At this time of the year there is no sign of national park authorities anywhere, and there are practically no yachts around.


Porto Massimo, a private resort on La Maddalena, is still empty, none of the outside buoys is taken. In nearby Cala Spalmatore there is not a single boat nor buoys. Massimo asleep

Cala Spalmatore, all ours for free

Arrive at La Maddalena Cala Gavetta, the town harbour. We are directed to a berth which is certainly large enough but also next to the road with traffic to the ferries. The harbour is low cost, low season, but a few yachts arrive in the course of the day. The harbourmaster (a German) explains that the season only starts mid of July, and carries on until mid of September. The very late start may be due to high winds in the area he says. Maddalena is a ‘real’ town with locals, not just a summer resort. It has busy ferry traffic to the main island, one boat every half hour. Cars and trucks, apparently commuter traffic.


Moored in Cala Gavetta

The small town is quite pleasant, fairly lively and sophisticated. Some tourists, mainly Italians. Sailing boats in the harbour, several German crews. We are able to buy a fever thermometer (just in case), and a cosmetic mirror for Jane. Strong boats to chase tax dodgers

Have drinks in a town square and later a nice meal in one of the restaurants along the seafront/ferry piers.


May 18, Friday Hibernating Costa Smeralda Day starts cloudy and windy. We are not in a hurry to leave and go into town to buy fruit, where we are surprised by a blustery shower. Have coffees in a nice cafe, then get back to the boat. Our boat is wedged in between two others, and a large mooring buoys is in front of us; we arrange with our German neighbour to make space so we can leave easily. We leave berth by 12:00 and go through the ’13 feet channel’, then pass the former US naval base at Isola S.Stefano and have a look at the large bay Porto Palma on Isola Caprera, which is empty apart from two yachts. We do not spot any buoys. Cross over to Arzachena bay and have a look at Cala Bitta, another marina. There are quite a few villas and apartment developments around, of the ‘Costa Smeralda style’, blending into the environment by the use of natural looking materials and muted colours. Some of the villas are set in manicured gardens down to the water’s edge.

We then turn back and proceed to Porto Cervo, expecting to experience the services of a ‘world class club harbour’, which is the hangout of the rich and famous, or so it is described. The weather is grey, the marina is mostly empty and looks deserted. I call port on VHF several times but no reply; we stand by and wait. One super yacht had arrived in port earlier, maybe the ormeggiatori are all completely absorbed helping the crew. After a considerable time of no contact, just a sighting of one guy in a dinghy who does not interact with us, we decide to go alongside one of the empty pontoons to wait. I call reception by phone, no response either.

Waiting for the superyachts...


Porto Cervo looks bleak at this time, and obviously there is no one to care about the arrival of small boats like ours. Having wasted the best part of an hour, I decide to leave and head for Portisco marina with whom I can instantly arrange a berth over the phone. Having just witnessed deserted bays and dormant ports, and heard from the harbour master about the late short season, it comes to mind that Costa Smeralda yachting resorts are just empty seasonal facilities waiting for their ‘luxury’ clientele, who all seem to gather within the same four weeks of the year. Maybe boats are taken there by professional crews, and guests arrive by air? Portisco marina is located on the West side of the Cugnana bay. Before we approach the marina, we have a look at Porto Rotondo on the opposite side, which is run by Italians (not by the Costa Smeralda consortium). We hear it is a nice harbour with the advantage of a beach in the immediate vicinity. Porto Rotondo entrance

Marina Portisco is tidy and welcoming, with friendly receptionists, and reasonably busy. It is the base of some sail charter companies. There are a couple of cafes, restaurants and shops of upmarket fashion.


We have very good dinner in the sophisticated Aquamarine restaurant in the marina. May 19, Sat Olbia and no more With a wind forecast of SE 15 kn and gusting during the day we decide to stay in port and leave the following day. The wind is getting up

The weather has turned unstable and a low front is approaching. The next days are predicted to be very rainy and windy. Given this outlook, and our intentions to return to London before too long, the practical decision is to drop the option to continue further on to Cagliari. We will leave Tarilian in Olbia, where there is a safe marina and an airport with direct flights to London. Later I will return and take the boat from Olbia to Sicily. May 20, Sunday A day like in winter The day starts grey and drizzly, but with little wind.

Late morning we leave berth. Jane starts an argument about which point in time fenders should be taken away (her job). She has got a point. Ah, the crew is disputing the captain’s opinion? That must not be. The captain issues a new order, that fenders are not to be stored away during ordinary daytime cruising when short handed (he must be talking about Jane’s short hands), but taken on board and left tied on. Law, order and happiness are restored at once ?!


Our short journey to Olbia continues in grey weather with some swell, not too bad, but towards Olbia strong rain sets in which affects visibility.

Olbia’s large harbour is easily approached but quite ‘industrial’, a stark contrast to the leisure harbours in the tourist area further North. We berth in the new Marina Olbia.

The marina is smartly designed around granite rocks sticking out irregularly; the berthing helpers are efficient. The development ashore, however, which should provide an infrastructure of local shops and restaurants is as yet non-existent. To the nearest supermarket there is a good 10 minutes walk uphill, to go into town you need a taxi. Appalling wet windy grey weather all day, ‘un giorno del inverno’ they say in the marina. We stay on board most of the time. Marina di Olbia. Outside town, but professionally run by helpful staff.


May 21, Monday Land lubbers in Olbia The weather is brighter, but during the day showers and rain develop again, and a brisk W wind starts. In the afternoon we hire a taxi to Olbia and find its old town ok but non-exiting. The archaeological museum is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. At Olbia’s sea front. Not a tourist resort.


San Paolo church in the centre of Olbia

Marina di Olbia, granite boulders between pontoons. Isola Tavolara in the background.

Have good dinner in town, restaurant ‘da Paolo’, recommended by the cabby who has started to become our private chauffeur. Tomorrow afternoon our flights back to London are scheduled. The weather on our departure day makes us glad we leave, again a cool day of gusts, showers and brighter spells. We meet Gianmichele, the engineer who is going to do a couple of small maintenance jobs on the boat while I am away.


Fast forward to June. 24 hours to Sicily take more than 24 to prepare The next step on our journey East is the crossing to Sicily, which I intend to do in a direct route from Olbia to Palermo of 250 nm. This trip would not suit Jane, I have agreed with a skipper from England to join me. On June 5th I return to Olbia. Gianmichele has completed his job, I meet him and we check it out. My mate is supposed to arrive Wednesday June 6th, but is held up by problems with a delivery turn, and on Thursday, eventually, has to cancel. I ask the at the marina office for a local guy with experience, and they recommend the skipper of a sports yacht in the marina who is free over the weekend. He is a mature professional chap, speaks English well, we agree conditions. The weather is a bit windy but the forecast looks ok to get out on Saturday 9th. I use my time to visit the small archaeological museum in the harbour which we had missed earlier. The restored remains of a sizeable Roman merchant ship are worth seeing. I have to ask a guard specifically to show it to me as they keep the room closed. Herakles, the principal divinity in Olbia in Roman times – original head and reconstruction. I think I prefer the ruined look.

The former commercial quay, near the maritime museum, looks rough; berthing is permitted ‘subject to authorisation for marine security purposes only’ but appears to be uncontrolled, and so – a free mooring next to town – is fully occupied by sailing yachts. On Friday, June 8th, the skipper suddenly has to cancel, friends of the yacht owner have called out of the blue that they are coming to the boat over the weekend, so he can’t leave. Back to square one; I am determined to do the trip that weekend. The marina people come up with Giovanni, who is into boat services and has done some delivery trips before. Giovanni’s English is


practically non-existent, so I must pull out my best Italian. He is a father of a young family, his wife is pregnant with their second child, so he can do with the extra money. Giovanni is happy to leave on Sat but insists he must be back home by Sunday night. With the help of the marina staff we book suitable flights for him from Palermo back to Olbia via Rome. June 9, Saturday Finally out at Sea

Close to midday we leave berth, refuel, and set out as planned, past the mussel-farms in the harbour entrances and Olbia lighthouse, out to sea.

Passing the Southwest end of isola Tavolara.


Leaving on a SE course between Sardinia mainland and islands Molara and Tavolara (behind).

The forecast has been for dry weather, low wind but residual swell of 1m from the South during the first half of the journey, decreasing as we go. The forecast turns out to be correct, but occasionally the swell from starboard bow feels a bit unpleasant. Giovanni is a jolly and pleasant guy. His wife has cooked excellent pasta, which can be enjoyed cold. He has brought more than enough for us both. Over the night we throttle back to just 9.5 knots, no need to hurry. The swell dies down as forecast. There is no moon. I had expected to encounter a few commercial ships en route, but we only spot one vessel over the whole time, a ferry; no freighters, tankers or any pleasure yachts around. But we do see a number of dolphins; some appear in pairs and larger groups. They just dive under our bow, some swim in the wake, but none of them stays around for longer. June 10, Sunday Palermo on schedule The journey has been uneventful; we approach Sicily in calm conditions but a slight haze and visibility below 10 nm.


Sicilian coast near Capo Gallo, looking West

Arrive at Palermo’s marina Villaigiea at 12:30 on schedule, where I have reserved a berth. We re-fuel the boat before berthing Tarilian in marina Villaigiea, the imposing hotel of the same name in the central background.


In the afternoon Giovanni leaves to get to the airport; I prepare the boat to stay at the marina unattended until July 7th, when Jane and I plan to come to Palermo for a few days of holiday. Leaving the boat, and having a first look at the area of Aquasanta outside the marina, it is instantly clear to me that I have arrived in the deep Mezzogiorno; an old town South of Naples, very different from clean organized Sardinia. Overflowing waste containers in the street, crumbling pavements and dirty facades of run down old houses, chaotic noisy traffic, votive statues of the madonna and saints, lots of people in the street, and smells. And, of course, the temperature stays hot after sunset. For next morning , June 11, I book a taxi to the airport (Euro 45, about 40 minutes drive out of town) and flight to London. In the first part of this year’s cruise we have been to two of the most spectacular natural harbours of the Mediterranean, Mahon and Bonifacio, and visited highlights on the coasts around North Sardinia including the Maddalena archipelago. The main crossings, between Menorca and Sardinia, and Sardinia and Sicily, that involve overnight sailings, are done. The onwards journey to the Adriatic can be done entirely by Jane and myself. Harbour entrance Bonifacio


July 7-18, 2012 HOLIDAY in PALERMO SUN, SANTA ROSALIA AND THE PYROMANIACS Jane and I are coming to Palermo for a few a days. We arrive at the airport in the evening of Saturday July 7. The drive to the marina in a rental car, through dark unfamiliar Palermo, is at first a little challenge. We have a late dinner in a nearby restaurant. The weather is very hot, daytime around 32 ˚C, nights not much less, about 26-28˚.

Have coffee in Aguasanta street, outside the marina (the praise of the two-wheeler)

I have been to Palermo before, it seems to me, that not much has changed in the last 30 years. They have not even swept the streets! The historic centre looks dirty and run down, historic buildings have been neglected, black facades everywhere; no traffic easing concept or pedestrianized zones, dusty road work sites; lawless and chaotic road traffic with overloaded trucks and myriads of tiny cars and bikes full of rusting blemishes which never get repaired; walking in town one can stumble across sinister slums that make you clutch your wallet and camera and sneak away quickly. The Euro crises and public spending cuts do not help, but there seems to be as much money in the pockets of the wealthy as ever. If any moneys were spent on this town, one must wonder in which (mafia) pockets they have landed. An additional bad experience this time are man made fires. Forest fires on hilltops, malicious arson near tourist monuments, and on a motorway in town. Whether it’s disgruntled forest workers, calculated destruction, blackmail or just vandalism, it does stink. Jane is under shock about the disaster around her, her experience from Tuscany is of no help. I try to assure her that the horror is limited to Palermo, other places in Sicily aren’t as bad. Anyhow, the town has got major historic monuments to offer; we venture out in our boiling rental car (despite aircon) to visit some of them. The relentless sun appears to have scared tourists away, I am even able to find (free) parking spaces.


First excursion is to Monreale, where we are impressed with the church but sadly not able to view the cloister. Jane is impressed with the outside of the apses. ...something of a ‘nautical’ theme; to determine whether the waters were abating from the ground, Noah sends out a pigeon which returns with an olive twig

Later in the afternoon we drive through the old town centre to get a first impression, and then out and up the Monte Pellegrino. There is a good view over Palermo from the ‘castle’(conference centre).

The port of Palermo, historic centre in the distance, marina Villaigiea far left


July 10, Tuesday The marina is mainly used by locals, who keep their boats here and only go out with their families for daytrips, often during the weekend. I wonder where they go, my nautical guide does not give it away. Anyhow, having had enough of the dusty hot town we take the boat to nearby Mondello and anchor in front of the large beach. Calm weather, pleasant. Anchored outside Mondello beach, Monte Pellegrino behind

We discover, that the worst things about marina Villaigiea are not their 3rd world standard toilet and shower facilities, which might one day get replaced, but sickening sewage smells that hover over it occasionally under certain wind conditions. On the following days we are again getting serious with visiting sights. Get stuck in the traffic but finally park by the Porta Nuova, not far from the Cattedrale which is more impressing from the outside than inside. Santa Rosalia celebrations are approaching, her shire is decorated and a carriage with a veiled lady is outside ready for the processions.


Postcard picture. Jane adorns the arab – byzantine - anglo-norman – renaissance – baroque – gothic - neoclasscial style (am I missing one?) cathedral of Palermo. Next to visit is of course the Norman palace; today approached by climbing over messy roadwork sites and a dusty park under the overwhelming sun. But inside, Capella Palatina is a must see.

San Giovanni degli Ermiti Jane finds that the gardens, which are meant to be a feature of the site, totally neglected and dried out.


Always keen on things nautical, we then drive to the harbour area and view the pretty church Santa Maria della Catena (St Mary with the Chain), a catalan-gothic construction overlooking the oldest part of Palermo’s port, the Cala: A chain was once used to close the Cala off, one end was anchored in a church wall. There haven’t been many tourists elsewhere, and here we are practically on our own. Portico of Santa Maria Catena with view to the Cala, today's town yacht harbour.

We have been unhappy with the restaurant closest to the marina, so we tried grilled chicken from the family run local pizza/takeaway to have dinner on board. Excellent stuff by any standard, both the chicken and pizzas, and inexpensive. Watching the guys make pizza whilst you wait is a show in its own right, professional hard work at incredible speed in about 40° of heat. Beware of queues though, the whole of Palermo has pizza at 8! This time however, we want to dine in style in the hotel Villaigiea, a traditional place from the days when people travelled in style and came to Aguasanta for the health spa. They have got a large terrace and grand gardens overlooking the marina and sea. The restaurant is so traditional that the dress code for men is long trousers, irrespective of the weather and sitting outside. I can’t believe it but have to go back to the boat and change. Of course, there is a lady’s and a gentleman’s menu. Still worth doing. July 13, Friday Our next attempt to discover daytrip destinations from Palermo takes us further North to the Capo Gallo - Isola delle Femmine marine reserve, which covers quite a large coastal area. I have gathered information about regulations from my guidebook and the web, but it’s not easy. Uncontrolled anchoring is technically forbidden everywhere, but the map shows fields of mooring buoys (campi ormeggio) in a number of places. We pass all of them but there is not a single buoy to be seen anywhere. So I decide to try to anchor near one of those mooring areas within the zone “C” (least


protected) between the tiny island and the mainland cape; several small boats are already there. It seems ok and no authorities show up. Anchored in front of the Isola delle Femmine. But the lady prefers to stay on board

However, to my great embarrassment, when lifting the anchor later, it has picked up a lot of seaweed, possibly even the posidonia stuff that is under protection. A more imposing view of l’Isola delle Femmine

We decide to return to Palermo and make a stop at Mondello beach on our way back.


Capo Gallo looking South

At Mondello, later in the afternoon we notice smoke of forest fires on a mountain. These are man made and spread frightfully fast.


A major fire goes on and develops further, its shine is seen in the night. Water planes are used, but stop over night. The following day there is still smoke, even on Sunday. Civil protection fire fighting plane fills up with sea water

July 14, Saturday. Relaxing in the marina I notice that, at least in Palermo, it is not uncommon to see paid crew even on a humble family cruiser of 45 feet: After a short daytrip, the pater familias is engaged in all-important mobile calls, the female members of family continue sunbathing, same as outside, whilst a white clad Asian/Philippino lady emerges from below and cleans the boat meticulously, for hours. Some employ young black guys to carry heavier stuff and do mechanical jobs. Che dolce vita. Later in the evening I notice there are many people on their boats and there is a mood of eager anticipation; activity of boats going out of the marina starts, probably 30 or more leave by 23:00. They must be expecting something extraordinary outside, which can only be a firework display. Ah, Santa Rosalia! The fireworks finally start at half past midnight, and by 1:30 most boats are back, in a remarkably orderly fashion and without much noise. Just a sign that alcohol is not a problem with Sicilians. In marina Villaigiea


July 15, Sunday The weather, as always, hot and sunny, light N winds in the afternoon. This time we try to go Southeast from the marina.. Passing Capo Zafferano and its short lighthouse

... and anchor in the pleasant and popular Seno di S.Elia, South of Capo Zafferano

In the afternoon the wind picks up and scares away a few small boats which huddle together under the relative protection of the cape. Return to Villaigiea in the evening.


Marina Villaigiea is his territory. He rests on the pontoons and guards his boats. He has no master, but all boat owners are his friends. A far cry from the Costa Smeralda.

July 16, we go by car to ancient Segesta, and the harbour of Castellamare del Golfo. In Segesta we notice smoke in the woods near the temple, and are stopped approaching the site. When allowed in, after some waiting, together with a group of American students, we find malicious arson. The fire had reached the fencing of the walkway, a few steps further off in the woods the fire is still burning.

Segesta’s Greek temple, a visit with a twist. Burning smells are still in the air


Arson right around the archeological site of Segesta

Segesta’s Greek theatre with view towards the Castellamare mountains. Forests on the hill in the distance appear to get systematically burnt down.

After viewing the archeological sites we drive to the once harbour of the Segestan rulers, Castellamare del Golfo. Today it is a resort with a beach along its gulf, an old town on a promontory with a castle at the end, and a spacious harbour with a yacht marine. It is situated 34 nm West of Palermo by sea so could make a useful stop for a yacht, as it seems to be an inviting tidy place.


We have dinner in one of the harbourside restaurants before driving back to Palermo. Pleasant old town and harbour quay of Castellamare del Golfo

July 17. A trip by car to the characterful historic mountain top village of Erice and the harbour town of Trapani at the far West end of Sicily. Erice is spectacularly situated on top of a mountain with views towards the sea on three sides. It has an ancient history of Elymians and Punians, and is a small beautifully preserved historic walled town with mediaeval feel, castles and churches. Being at 750m means that the climate is different and cooler from below; when we visited we had a stubborn cloud hovering over us for much of the time. Erice, Chiesa Madre


Erice. Tourists are well looked after but it is not a place for the masses.

We leave Erice and drive down to Trapani. View to West over Trapani with its port at the far end; the Egadi islands in the distance.

Trapani is a large town and harbour, with - you guessed it - a castle. Driving through we get the impression it is an orderly looking well kept place. The harbour is also a base for the Aegadian islands.


Trapani town and harbour looking East

Return to Palermo. Back to the boat, getting ready for sundowners. Looking South towards the cranes of the docks.

We return to London on July 19.

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Log 2012 20121015