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BREAD & BUTTER publishes the “L.O.C.K. Book”
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B O O K
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B O O K
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B O O K
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BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN
WINTER 2010
L.o.c.k.
LABELs of commoN kIN
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B o o k
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WINTER 2010
06.
PUBLISHERBREAD & butter GmbHMünzstraße 1310178 Berlin, Germany
EDITORIAL OFFICEBREAD & butter GmbHCorporate PublishingMünzstraße 1310178 Berlin, GermanyTel. +49 (0)30 400 44 0Fax +49 (0)30 400 44 101www.breadandbutter.com
DISCLAIMERThe L.O.C.K. Book is published by BREAD & butter GmbH, Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany. Contributions, in which the author or company is named, do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Place of jurisdiction is Berlin, Germany.
COPYRIGHTAll rights reserved by BREAD & butter GmbH. The copying of graphic design or information with regard to the use of texts fragments of texts or image material demands prior written consent from the publisher.
IMAGES & LOGOTYPES Delivered by and property of the respective L.O.C.K. brands.
SPECIAL THANKS TOthe team of pool magazine
CREATIVE DIRECTIONRobert Dizdarevic
ART DIRECTION & ILLUSTRATIONKatrin FriedmannAlexander Groth
MANAGING EDITORJenny Boers
PROOF READINGAndreas Ljungström
FINAL DRAWINGAnja Decker
PROJECT COORDINATIONUrte Peter
SUPPORTFranka Schuster
ADVERTISINGJenny Boers
PRODUCTIONKathleen Hiller
PRINTINGDruckhaus Schöneweide GmbHBallinstraße 1512359 Berlin, Germany
CIRCULATION10.000 copies
IMPRINT
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WELCOMEby Karl-Heinz Müller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
THE JEANMAKERInterview with Jason Denham by Helmut Wolf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
EMOTIONAL DESIGN Interview with Don Norman by Helmut Wolf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
L.O.C.K. Labels of Common KinWinter 2010 BRANDS:
Alan Paine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Alejandro Ingelmo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24April 77 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Armor Lux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Barbour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Blauer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Brooks England . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Buco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Canada Goose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Clarks Originals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40Crust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Dayton Boots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Delan/Latini/Moriano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46DENHAM the Jeanmaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Dockers K-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Double-M . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52DUKES Finest Vintage Artisan . . . . . . . . . . 54Edsor Kronen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Edwin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Evisu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Filson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Fred de la Bretonière . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Fred Perry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Gilded Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Hell’s Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70HTC Hollywood Trading Company . . . . . . . . 72Inis Meáin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Lee 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Lee The Archives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Levi’s ® Made & Crafted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Levi’s ® Vintage Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Lost Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Ludwig Reiter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Lyle & Scott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Marithé + François Girbaud . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Master Smith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92MA.STRUM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Meindl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Morrison/Howlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98n.d.c. made by hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Nudie Jeans Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102PACE Jeans. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Primeboots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Prps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Red Wing Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110R.M. Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Schott NYC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Seil Marschall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Shabbies Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Spiewak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Stetson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Steven Alan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124T.K. Garment Supply . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Ten C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Velour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130windsor.men . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection . . . . . . . . . . 134
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CONTENT
09.
The concentration of cities towards the centre, parallelism of physical and virtual spaces, niche economies as antithesis to “economic frenzy”, changes in consumer behaviour due to demographic developments, a more liberal approach to fashion, the crea-tive scene’s neo-liberalism trap ... Cit-ies and societies are in the process of a great transformation - and for the most part, the outcome is still open says Friedrich von Borries, professor for design theory at the University of Fine Arts in Hamburg, who has spent many years researching the developments in architecture and urbanism and their relation to processes in economy and everyday culture. In conversation with Helmut Wolf, he explains why.
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H.W.: Dear Friedrich, to which ex-tent do you think that economically turbulent times have an effect on the vitality and the attitude to life of city residents?
F.v.B.: On the one hand, it certainly causes a feeling of insecurity, which has negative effects. On the other hand, there is a positive side to such situations as well - in the sense that this insecuri-ties force people to face alternatives. What else is there? What is new? In-sofar, economically turbulent times lead to dynamization, greater variety, new experiments, since people have to try new things because the old ones
clearly don’t work anymore. Times of crisis are generally also very creative times, in the sense of the creative pow-er of destruction. Of course we have to differentiate here, because there are many people who are not blessed with creativity and who are now standing in front of their shattered existence.
In the creative scene however, certain current career plans might not work anymore, but instead, the formerly curbed, narrowly channelled creativity can now unfold much more freely. We can also see this in fashion, where sud-denly there is more tailoring, altering and combining going on again... things are simply used more liberally than in the previous times of prosperity. When changes make room for freedom and the same old roads turn into dead-end streets, transformation processes are occurring.
Berlin for example is very experi-enced when it comes to change. This is why people here were not as shocked by the economic changes. In fact, Ber-lin is permanently in an unstable situa-tion, a seeking state - more so than cit-ies like Paris, London and Milan, where people have more difficulty adapting to this indefiniteness.
H.W.: Over half of the world’s popula-tion already lives in big cities, and this is still an upward trend. In your opin-ion, which effects will this increasing concentration in urban areas have on the structure of society in general?
The Wolverine® 1000 Mile BootMore than 127 years ago, Wolverine founder G.A. Krause built a company on a dream of
creating finely crafted footwear using the best materials of the time. Wolverine is honoring
its heritage with a one-of-a-kind collection of boots and shoes crafted with the same
attention to detail found in the originals. The 1000 Mile Collection combines the pillars of
Wolverine’s heritage – comfort, durability, function and style.
www.wol verine1000mile.com
68831 WBS BnB 1000mi Ad v5.indd 1 12/18/09 3:23:11 PM
10.
L.o.c.k.
LABELs of commoN kIN
With this book, we are proud to present the authentic brands exhibit-ing at the L.O.C.K. – Labels of Com-mon Kin area at BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN in January 2010.
I am convinced that these brands are the representation of the “new luxury”: in my opinion, the dedication to high-quality manufacturing is the luxury of the future.
Selection criteria for the brands
presented in the L.O.C.K. – Labels of Common Kin are the use of traditional methods of manufacturing, and, above all, the passion and love for detail with which their high-quality products are manufactured.
Many of the collections shown here are distinctive originals, others are to be understood as design-technical interpretations of popular classics or homages to great products from
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WELCOME
10.
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epochs of the past. However, it is nei-ther the age of the brands nor the duration of their products’ market presence that is decisive for the brands to be shown at the L.O.C.K. Moreover, the L.O.C.K. exhibitors are united in their affinity to their craftsmanship and their valuing of originality, tradi-tion and authenticity.
We will continue to follow the objec-tive of gathering these brands in our
L.O.C.K. – Labels of Common Kin area, and of presenting them in a publica-tion, the L.O.C.K. BOOK, in order to provide the retail with a comprehen-sive overview of the “new luxury”.
The product comes first!
Karl-Heinz Müller
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THE JEANMAKER
Every piece of clothing by DEnham the jeanmaker conveys the brand’s passion and dedication for denim and jeans. The tailor’s scissors in their logo stand for their love of craftsman-ship and attention to detail that guides all their interpretations of the classic denim look. In the following interview, Jason “the jeanmaker” Denham ex-plains why denim has been fascinating him for years and why jeans have the power to eliminate social differences.
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h.W.: Dear Jason, what is it that fascinates you about denim?
J.D.: There simply is no other material that is as fascinating as den-im. When I studied fabrics back in uni-versity and learned about the holistic process and story behind the material, I simply fell in love with it. my biggest passion is the versatility of indigo in combination with wool. I’m sure there’ll always be denim jeans because every pair has its very own personality.
h.W.: You could say that jeans adapt to the person wearing them. They have the power to eliminate all social dif-ferences. actually, jeans are the most democratic product of the clothing in-dustry, wouldn’t you say so?
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by Helmut Wolf
pool Magazine
Interview with
JASON DENHAM
13.
J.D.: Jeans indeed have the power to eliminate all social differences. Jeans are worn by convicts, rebels, bikers, ravers, shakers, makers, star chas-ers, toe gazers, idols, idles, militants, heroes and most importantly, the real guy on the street. and as jeans are an organic product, they change and get better the more you wear them. They adapt to our body and are a means of expressing our personality and lifestyle.
h.W.: Elaborate craftsmanship stands in contrast to our fast-paced world of cheap goods. Do you think that our turbulent times could lead to
revival of small, individual craftsman’s workshops and manufacturers?
J.D.: I do, absolutely! I don’t think cutting down on quality and prices is an efficient way to deal with the eco-nomic crisis. I’m convinced that con-sumer attitudes will change and that cheap “throw-away fashion” will be replaced by quality brands. We believe in honest pricing and innovative, high-quality products.
h.W.: Each one of your products seems to convey the brand’s passion and dedication. Do you think that this “tangible” passion can affect consum-ers and influence them?
14.
J.D.: We act by the guideline that “the truth lies in the detail”. We want all our products to convey this kind of passion and dedication. Our collections are based on two principles: Firstly, we understand history. We collect vintage clothing and have already amassed more than 1,000 pieces of used cloth-ing, radiating inspiration, history and integrity. Secondly, we love to reinvent. although we admire traditions, we dis-approve of unquestionable principles.
h.W.: Do you have a certain type of person in mind when you create a product?
J.D.: Yes, I do. I imagine someone who shares our passion for originality, quality and modernity. Our products are timeless and stand for a certain attitude.
h.W.: What do you think of this statement: “Without the old, there would be nothing new”?
J.D.: I believe that quality takes time to evolve. and I think that the old can inspire the new. Before you create a pair of jeans, you have to understand their history. In our studio we have a huge archive that keeps track of these
15.
developments. We follow our passion for modern design and combine it with history. In a way, this leads to a balance of admiring traditions and destroying conventions …
h.W.: Would you say that timeless-ness is the new avant-garde?
J.D.: Yes and no. Timelessness is good, but I’m also thrilled about break-ing conventions and reintroducing cer-tain techniques, details and outlines.
h.W.: What means authenticity to you?
J.D.: Genuineness, originality, quality.
h.W.: What’s your daily source of motivation?
J.D.: I love what I do. I know, it’s a cliché - but I haven’t worked one day in my life. What I do every day is my hobby, my passion. I like to get up ear-ly, often at 5 a.m., and go to the studio. These quiet hours, where I can do my own thing, are my biggest source of inspiration. Every collection is a step ahead, which gives me new energy and brings me forward ...
16.
What makes a product comprehen-sible, useable? Is it true that we work more efficiently with a device that we enjoy using? and: Do computers obstruct our creative thinking?
US scientist Don norman, one of the world’s leading specialists in the field of design usability and “emotionally functioning designs”, has been provid-ing answers to all these questions for many years.
an email here, a website there; a new update here, something that needs improving and restructuring there: Computers continuously demand our attention. Like a small animal,
the computer challenges us - and causes us to lose a lot of time, energy and creative potential in the process. In his role as a “usability consultant”, Don norman, cognitive scientist, com-puter visionary and design consultant, has dealt extensively with the compre-hensibility and usability of products. During this, he has repeatedly found that many technologies are simply not useful in everyday life - and they take the fun and joy away from us. “I believe that many people don’t re-ally need complex technology. People would rather do things the natural way, and enjoy doing them!”, the Pro-fessor Emeritus for Computer Science
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EMoTioNAl DEsigN
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by Helmut Wolf
pool Magazine
Interview with
DON NORMAN
17.
at northwestern University said in an interview with Spiegel Online. In his multifaceted occupation, norman, who has worked for brands such as hewlett Packard and apple, has for many years advocated the integration of emotional character into products. Regarding Emotional Design, a term defined by Don norman and also the title of one of his many books, studies have proven that it clearly leads to more effective work. Things that are well thought out and well designed put us in a better mood, which in turn leads to increased productivity and satisfaction.
In the following interview, Donald a. norman defines his perception of good
design, and declares that it definitely has the power to change our view of the world.
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h.W.: Dear Don norman, perfection can quickly become boring - in life, as well as in fashion and design. how do you explain people’s affinity for per-fection and a lack of “liveliness”?
D.n.: I think that something like perfection doesn’t exist. Personally, I am not seeking perfection, but I am always looking for new knowledge and findings ...
18.
h.W.: Legendary Braun designer Dieter Rams once said: “Good design means as little design as possible.” What do you think about this quote?
D.n.: Dieter Rams is both right and wrong: Good design is difficult. Yes, a good design often appears simpler than others, with less rather than more. But simplicity is often deceiving. To design an object that is well made, reliable, robust and functional, as well as cost-effective, easy to comprehend and on top of that enjoyable - yes, to achieve all these things is very, very difficult. however, to implement all of this is exactly what I am striving for (note: Don norman is also a co-found-
er of the usability consulting company “nielsen norman Group”). But it cer-tainly requires an enormous amount of thinking, a lot of work and many at-tempts.
What Dieter Rams is essentially trying to say is that he condemns the unnecessary debauchery in design. In order to achieve “more”, design-ers have to reduce. But simplification is much more challenging and dif-ficult than adding something on top. To create good design is quite honestly very difficult.
h.W.: For many years, you have been an advocate of “emotional design”. Can the joyful use of a product change our
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feelings, or maybe even our view of the world?
D.n.: For me personally, the most important part of a design is the ex-perience you are having with it. and yes, this experience and perception certainly are setting in because of emotional design. But positive experi-ences are also synonymous with good craftsmanship, wonderful, satisfactory results, and an object that we enjoy us-ing over and over again.
Do they change our feelings? Do they change our view of the world? hah ... of course they do! Just think about how badly designed or poorly manufac-tured products affect your feelings in
a negative way. These things frustrate us, annoy us, and make us angry. They literally transform us into monsters that are difficult to deal with. Yes, they in fact make us angry with everything that surrounds us.
Fantastic design on the other hand does the exact opposite to us: It makes us smile, relax, and simply feel good. We are smiling and are seeing the world in a positive light. So, clearly, de-sign does influence our feelings. The trademark of good design is its posi-tive influence on our experiences, feel-ings, and especially that it evokes joy. This is one of the most important ef-fects of emotional design ...
Donald A. Norman is considered to be one of
the world’s leading experts in the field of design usability.
He is a professor for Design and Computer Science
at Northwestern University, and has worked among others
for companies such as Hewlett-Packard and Apple.
He also is a co-founder of the usability consulting company
“Nielsen Norman Group” and the author of numerous books, e.g.
“Emotional Design: Why we love (or hate) everyday things” (2003)
or “The Design of Future Things” (2007).
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B R A N D s
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WiNTER 2010
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22.
At the beginning of the 20th cen-tury, Godalming in Surrey, England, was a small town with a long history of wool knitwear production. When William Paine, a struggling tailor, discovered old hand knitting machines in a timbered warehouse, he put them to use developing some of the first ca-ble stitch sweaters. The popularity of his cable sweaters grew with sports-men and women and, before long, the club colour trim was introduced.
After WWII, William’s son Alan Paine took over the company, re-launching the business with such success that it became one of the first UK government sponsored companies to embark on a post-war export scheme. During the
1950s and 1960s, Alan Paine saw rapid business growth in Europe and North America. The company remained in the Paine family until the early 1990s.
Today, Alan Paine produces mens, womens and kids collections of classic and contemporary knitwear. Their new line, AP1907, is inspired by vintage Alan Paine pieces; the range includes con-temporary slim-fitting lightweight knits with intricate stitch detail and innova-tive styling in luxury Merino, Lambs-wool, Geelong and washdown Geelong.
Alan Paine, proud of its English heritage and worldwide recognition, remains committed to the traditional values and the high quality standards of its early years
English quality
knitwEar sincE 1907
Alan Paine
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24.
Educated at Parsons, and based in New York City, shoe and accessories designer Alejandro Ingelmo debuted his first women’s shoe collection for the Fall/Winter 2006 season. Born and raised with Cuban influences, his signature maintains, the sexy allure of his heritage, while incorporating a powerfully directional New York edge.
Ingelmo reinvents classic women’s silhouettes while utilizing contempo-rary materials, providing the designer customer with a unique, and progres-sive perspective on heels, platforms and ballerinas.
Based on the success of the women’s line, Ingelmo added a men’s collection to his resume for the Spring/Summer 2007 season.
The collection features luxury train-ers and dress shoes in futuristic fab-rications such as mirrored metallics and bronzed pythons. “AI’s” have a cult following and are worn by the likes of Jay Z and Kanye West.
In 2008, Alejandro was one of the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Top Ten candidates, and has been nominated for the 2009 Swarovski Award for Accessory Design.
rEinvEntEd
classic silhouEttEs
Alejandro Ingelmo
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Guitarist and drummer Brice Par-touche created APRIL77® in 2002. APRIL77® opened their first office in Paris in 2004, and in 2008, the APRIL77RECORDS® label was born: everyone who buys APRIL77® jeans can download exclusive songs, with new releases each month.
As an artist, Brice Partouche has his roots in underground movements. This authenticity is mirrored in the cutting-edge style of their jeans with names such as “Dictator Heart Attack Black” or “Joey Nightrider Grey”, and tops such as the jacket called “Distortion Kennedy”.
The look is decidedly masculine and neo-dandy, and clearly created with a downtown lifestyle in mind. For APRIL77®, urban modernity and a re-bellious Rock’n’Roll lifestyle are not just a fake posture, but a real attitude: their principle is “no compromising in the name of trends”.
Today, APRIL77® is sold in 400 boutiques in more than 20 countries, spreading their philosophy of the APRIL77® DIY and Underground.
A womens collection launch and collaborations with major music and fashion artists are highlights for 2010.
April 77
dancE tonight,
rEvolution tomorrow.
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28.
In 1938, Swiss-German businessman Walter Hubacher founded The Bon-neterie d’Armor in Quimper, Brittany, and started producing high quality un-derwear under the name “Armor Lux”.
Since the early 1970s, the Armor Lux range has been expanded to fully designed ready-to-wear collections: shirts, jackets, and skirts. In 1997, Ar-mor Lux introduced its children line Armor kids.
Today, Armor Lux stands for qual-ity leisure garments with a navy style inspired by the Breton heritage, with around 9,000 items manufactured each day. But the Armor Lux principle is not only profit: as an active member of the “Produit en Bretagne” associa-tion, Armor Lux is deeply involved in
the economic and cultural life of Brit-tany and its nature. Therefore, Armor Lux is also committed to sustainable development, supports the 10 principals of the United Nations Global Compact, and is France’s biggest buyer of fair-trade cotton yarn.
Inspired by the colours of the sea, the Armor Lux style is chic and de-cidedly maritime, with the traditional Breton stripe shirt as a classic high-light.
With the production of the Breton shirt, Armor Lux continues a French Breton clothing tradition: the Breton shirt was officially created for the uni-form of French seamen in 1858, since the stripes allowed to more easily lo-cate a man fallen into the sea.
BrEton quality
Armor Lux
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30.
In the North East of England, days can be uninviting, wet and cold. That’s why shepherds, dockworkers, fisher-men and sailors in that region consider their clothing as something like a ‘pro-tective skin’. Hailing from the Scottish village of Galloway, draper and former shepherd John Barbour knew this and in 1894 opened a shop in South Shields selling ‘oilskin’ jackets that protected men against the weather. From then on, his company Barbour sold their products with growing success, con-tinuously extending their range.
In 1908, they produced their first wax cotton motorbike suit, and then the iconic motorbike jacket ‘Barbour In-ternational’ in 1936. Barbour included
waxed jackets for fishermen, hunters and equestrians, and received the first Royal Warrant from the Duke of Ed-inburgh in 1974. This was followed by those of Queen Elizabeth II and her son Prince Charles.
Since the mid 1980’s, the brand, that still has its headquarters at the original location in South Shields, has expanded its product range to incorporate knit-wear, shirts, sports jackets, trousers and a special women’s collection, while the waxed cotton jacket still remains the heart and soul of Barbour. Collabo-rations, such as the current one with Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida, add an inspirational touch to the brand’s traditional style.
Barbour
royal protEction
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32.
For over 60 years, Blauer has been the leading brand in the U.S. for sup-plying technical garments to all Law Enforcement and to some select sectors of the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy officers or the Commando guarding the White House. Under its motto “Uncompro-mising Performance”, Blauer equips its customers with outerwear protecting them against heat and cold, water and danger. In the U.S., Blauer garments are only sold through specialized chan-nels such as Police Agencies.
Since shortly, Blauer garments are also available in Italy thanks to a li-cence agreement with FGF INDUS-TRY S.P.A. Company, addressed to a public keen on “made in U.S.A.” brands and on technical items with a rich history, that are “authentic-original” even if improved in comfort and fit-ting, having adopted characteristics
and shapes necessary for the Euro-pean Market.
Inspired by the American police world, the European Fall/Winter 2010 collection features the Blauer down jackets as the collection’s key pieces, offering maximum comfort while be-ing nicely lightweight.
Top quality techno materials such as nylon and micronylon are used for the outerwear, combined with cotton and wool to create weight and texture con-trasts. Leatherwear is presented with new colours and vintage treatments, and womens models are increasingly sophisticated, with new ultra femi-nine lines. Men’s classic bombers are replaced by the reefer or jacket line, with detachable down or fur linings to ensure the ”uncompromising perform-ance” that Blauer products have pro-vided for more than 60 years now.
uncompromising
pErformancE
Blauer
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34.
Brooks England is well-known for manufacturing traditional high-quali-ty leather bicycle saddles. The compa-ny is steeped in history: it all began in 1866, when John Boultbee Brooks es-tablished a business in Great Charles Street in Birmingham, England, pro-ducing horse harnesses and general leather goods under the name JB Brooks & Co. When the death of his horse and his inability to afford a new one forced Mr. Brooks to commute to work by bike, inspiration struck him: unsatisfied with the comfort provided by the bicycle saddle, he developed a new one, and on 28 October 1882, Mr. Brooks filed his first saddle patent.
The beautiful leather handcraft-ed Brooks England bicycle saddles
became a great success, and JB Brooks & Co soon started to add cycle and motorcycle bags and other acces-sories to their range.
Traditional techniques in manufac-turing leather saddles were passed down from generation to generation of craftsmen as the company grew from a small Birmingham workshop to a byword in quality craftsmanship.
In the last decade, Brooks Eng-land followed a new course honour-ing the company’s heritage: reviving the original slogan “Saddles, Bags, Etc”, a range of cycle bags and other accessories was introduced, inspired by the timelessness of the old Brooks England patents combined with con-temporary design.
Est. 1866
Brooks England
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36.
Buco: a brand name that simply sounds “STRONG”!
The very first Buco product was created in the early 1930’s, right in the middle of the US city that is well-known for manufacturing quality and durable products: Detroit, Michigan.
Aiming at perpetuating the tradi-tion, Buco developed and created first of all the legendary “J24” leather jack-et, made and shaped for the Detroit Motorcycle Police department. The “J24”, hailed as “the coolest motorcycle jacket ever” by those in the know, in-spired the current Buco line with the original spirit, and provided inspira-tion to find the authentic vintage de-tails that bring on every Buco product
the quality and care hardly expected by people who enjoy exclusive brands.
All Buco fabrics come from the origi-nal denim weaver’s looms, and dark and pure triple dyed indigo gives the Buco products a real half-century life effect. Buttons and rivets are especially cho-sen for their long durability, and the selected yarns are of a great thickness to support heavy washing treatments.
But above everything, Buco paid spe-cial attention to working on the tailor made fits. The result: the Buco products feature an exceptionally comfortable fit.
Quality, authenticity, durability, a great fit, and inspiration from a Detroit classic: these are the core elements of the Buco brand philosophy!
inspirEd
By a dEtroit classic
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Buco
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38.
Founded in 1957, Canada Goose has been committed to producing the best extreme weather outerwear in the world. Initially making a small number of jackets and woolen shirts to a large factory in the heart of Toronto’s design district, Canada Goose is an authentic Canadian success story of hard work and determination. Today the collec-tion includes Arctic Down, Multi-Zone, Special Collections and accessories for men, women and youth.
Canada Goose products are rooted in remote northern communities, on Arc-tic expeditions and ascents of Mount Everest. They are considered a survival tool at South Pole Research stations and on oil rigs where punishing, damp cold can at times be mind-numbing. They are born of purpose and function. And every single element in a Canada Goose is crafted to meet the demands of those who know what “extreme” really means.
ask anyonE
who knows™
Canada Goose
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40.
1825 in Street, a village in Somerset, England: while working at his brother Cyrus‘ tannery, James Clark invented the first Clarks shoe: the “Brown Peters-burg”, a sheepskin slipper that turned out to be a huge success. By 1842, James and Cyrus Clark, now trading as C&J Clark Limited, were selling an average of 1,000 pairs of slippers a month! The 20th century saw business booming for C&J Clark Limited. Today, Clarks is the world’s largest casual and smart shoe company, and the fourth largest footwear company on the planet, having produced stylish court shoes, winkle-pickers, wedges, sandals and sneakers for croon-ers, rockers, Mods, Britpoppers and Hip Hoppers, while always staying commit-ted to their main principle: quality.
The Clarks Original range was started with the soft, ankle high, crepe
soled Desert Boot, originally invented by Nathan Clark in a Burmese military outpost in 1949. Apart from variations of the Desert Boot, the Clarks Originals range features new styles and contem-porary versions of classics such as the Wallabee, originally introduced in 1965, or the Desert Trek, introduced in 1974. All Clarks Originals are made of only natural materials, feature handcrafted simplicity with a great attention to detail, and unite comfort with stylish, timeless yet contemporary design.
In 2009, Clarks celebrated the 60th anniversary of the Desert Boot with six new designs, inspired by each of the six decades. The Desert Boot: a global icon, an original that, in its con-temporary reinterpretations, unites the typical Clarks combination of inno-vation and traditional influences.
contEmporary
rEintErprEtations
of an original
Clarks Originals
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42.
Every wintersport addict or inhab-itant of the world’s colder regions is familiar with it: crust, the crisp, firm, outer surface layer of ice crystals cov-ering the snow. Just like snow, the down jackets of the Italian Sportswear brand Crust have a layer and a surface, combining contemporary urban style with over 40 years of down jacket pro-duction know-how of Cinellistudio.
The Crust Ski Vintage concept is a modern, innovative reinterpretation of Crust archive pieces, 1970s and 1980s ski wear. Reknowned sportswear de-signer Gionata Malagodi designed
the Crust Fall/Winter 2010 collection. His approach is to extend the Crust Ski Vintage concept to jackets, blazers, coats, and raincoats with a reversible ski duvet on the inside. Main stylistic feature of the current Crust collection is the use of overdyed, evocative prints, with the legendary Val d’Isère, a versa-tile down jacket, as the highlight.
Crust is very innovative when it comes to combining garments: the line features coats with a ski jacket inside, or innovations such as a down jacket assembled with a hoodie: genuine down clothing for urban kings and queens.
rEintErprEtEd
ski vintagE
Crust
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44.
In the winter of 1946, Charlie Wohl-ford founded Dayton Boots in East Vancouver, British Columbia, wanting to answer the needs of workers who had to cope with tough conditions in mining, logging or farming industries. Dayton Boots quickly gained a repu-tation for producing the best logging boots in the world. Not only loggers, but construction workers as well as fire and police departments came to appreciate the tough durability of Day-ton boots. The Dayton western boot, introduced in 1962, was the first with outside seams. The Black Beauty dou-ble-soled motorcycle boot, introduced in 1965, is still one of the Dayton clas-sics, in its popularity with motorcy-clists only beaten by the double-soled
Engineer boot, known as “the toughest motorcycle boot ever made”.
Lovingly designed and handcrafted, Dayton boots combine comfort, dura-bility and classic styling. No cardboard or glue is used, the boots are either Goodyear welted or fully nailed. Only the finest and most durable premium leather, two times thicker than the one of most premium leather boots, is processed. The result: a durability that leads to some of these boots being still in use after 25-40 years.
Manufactured in Vancouver for over 60 years with the same attention to detail as in 1946, Dayton quality work, leisure and motorcycle boots offer a lifetime warranty, and enjoy a grow-ing popularity.
a vancouvEr original
Dayton Boots
46.
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Since 1974, the “Del Duca” family from Tuscany/Italy has been specialis-ing in mens and womens leather fash-ion with their label Delan.
The secret behind the unique Delan price-efficiency is the union of tan-nery, production and laundry in one
house. The leather is of an excellent naturalness due to the careful tanning process steps and high-tech washing. Delan stands for washed lamb nappa that unites the most advanced technol-ogy and highest-quality fashion.
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Delan
Latini has been a manufacturer of the finest handmade leather in Tus-cany, Italy for 60 years, combing style and skilled hand manufacturing.
Latini is committed to setting and following the highest service stand-ards in procuring, selling and, above all, production: The Latini first-class
leather fashion is processed in the world’s best quality-tanneries with the finest raw material from Spain and Italy, resulting in a success that has been sustained for decades. The Latini highlight is the unique combination of their leather with cashmere from the prestigious Loro Piana manufacture.
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Moriano
Moriano Studio in Florence, Italy: since 1963, the Moriano family has been providing its expertise not only in lambskin, but also in winery and olive oil, everything “Made in Tuscany”.
Processed in the world’s best tanner-ies and thanks to the finest raw mate-rials imported from Spain, the Moriano
leather products have been a success for nearly 50 years now. Every season, Moriano provides exclusive outlooks for men and women.
For Fall/Winter 2010, Moriano has designed light and innovative composi-tions such as feather features for their leather clothing.
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Latini
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48.
worship tradition,
dEstroy convEntion.
When it comes to making jeans, it’s all about the right balance for DEN-HAM the Jeanmaker: they show that the commitment to progressive design and an obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition don’t contradict, but result in timeless quality products con-veying great passion and a dedication to honest craftsmanship.
Since 2009, Jason Denham and the DENHAM design team have focused on the balance between worshipping tradition and constant reinvention. That’s what they mean when they say “Denham Design Denim Integrity”.
In their DENHAM HOUSE in Am-sterdam’s Prinsengracht, the team
follows this philosophy, gaining design inspiration from the DENHAM Gar-ment library, a manifestation of Jason Denham’s obsession for jeans craft tradition. He has been building this archive for over 15 years, amassing more than 1,000 items.
Here, the DENHAM design team created, with their passion for origi-nality, quality and modernity, the high-lights for AW 10, featuring a highly restrained mix of colour, a focus on texture contradictions, Midlayer-Out-erlayer Reversals, Unspoiled Denim and Denham Virgin. The truth is in the details!
DEnhAM the Jeanmaker
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50.
The cloth Khaki was first invented by the British in India more than 150 years ago. Initially worn as military wear, it quickly became the standard gar-ment for international explorers and adventurers. Khaki started to become fashionable when film stars like Greta Garbo, Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart began wearing Khakis both on and off Hollywood screens. Since then, the distinctive khaki fabric became the embodiment of casual cool.
Since their introduction in 1986 in San Francisco by Levi Strauss & Co., the Dockers® brand has been perfecting Khakis. During the mid-1980s, Dock-ers® Khakis became the fastest grow-ing apparel brand in history. Research then showed that Dockers® Khakis were found in the wardrobes of eight out of ten American men, becoming the definite Khaki pant brand for more than two decades. From the mid-1990s,
Khakis became synonymous with ef-fortless style suitable for leisurely get-always and business casual wear.
In 2009 Dockers® introduced a com-fortable yet stylish Limited Edition Dockers® K-1 Khakis, encapsulating the mood of half a century of Khaki history which combines utility and com-fort with style and tailored design.
Staying true to the brands authen-ticity, the new Dockers® K-1 - Made in San Francisco Khakis for Spring Sum-mer 2010 will be manufactured in San Francisco, California, with the same level of craftsmanship which went into producing the original Cramerton Army cloth over seven decades ago, only with slight alterations to make the material relevant for the modern consumer. This deluxe all-purpose industrial uniform fabric with premium materials and the highest attention to detail, guarantees superior quality and authenticity.
thE dEfinitivE
khaki Brand.
Dockers® K-1
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52.
indiE thinking,
truE-talking &
unparallElEd passion
After having worked for the world’s leading denim brands for two decades, Swedish denim legend Mille Monferin decided to launch his own premium denim brand: Double-M, the name a reference to his initials, and to his spiritual guru.
Gaining inspiration from his denim archive that includes over 1,300 pairs of jeans, Mille’s influences are both 1940s workwear and 1960s vintage denim. His love for detail is appar-ent in each of the womens and mens high quality slim fitted premium den-ims and beautifully treated leather jackets.
Apart from his denim brand Dou-ble-M, Mille continues to work as a
consultant for jeans brands in both Western and Eastern Europe, Rus-sia and Japan, seeing his company as a new platform between Japan and Europe. The Double-M company and brand philosophy and keywords: indie thinking, true-talking & unparalleled passion, handstitched, well-sewn, and socially conscious.
The Double-M team is spread out in the cities that Mille’s heart beats for: London, Zurich and Tokyo. The Double-M style mirrors Mille’s geo-graphically widespread inspirations by blending the best creative ingre-dients of these cities, resulting in unique but affordable luxury products for demanding experts.
Double -M
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54.
arts and crafts
Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan was established by a creative collective of ambitious vintage lovers. Their commit-ment to sustainability, passion for art, crafts and very rare original vintage clothes and accessories built the basis of their work. The Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan collection consists of a lovingly restored exclusive range of unique and extremely rare up to 30-years-old army leather belts and bags.
After the vintage products have been cleaned with special detergents that preserve the patina, and polished with
special leather lotions, they are elabo-rately adorned: embossed, riveted and painted by the skilled hands of former members of Vienna’s Augarten Porce-lain Manufactory. Every processing step is done by hand.
The Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan collection style is inspired by contem-porary art, music and pop culture, as well as historical and cultural influ-ences from all over the world.
An individual serial number makes each style a unique and authentic col-lector’s item with heart and history.
DuKEs - Finest Vintage Artisan
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56.
Established in 1909, the Berlin tie manufactory KRONEN had its first heyday in the pulsating life of the Golden Twenties in Berlin. Style and elegance were highly valued, quality was the main objective and KRONEN found international recognition when the first filmstars became idols and en-joyed flaunting their KRONEN ties.
Today, EDSOR KRONEN creates three collections each year that are de-signed by Creative Director Günther H. Stelly together with the most prestig-ious Italian silk weavers. The EDSOR range includes accessories for peo-ple that appreciate style and quality: exclusive hand-sewn ties, bows, pock-ets squares, hand-stitched scarves, shawls, traditional as well as fashion-able narrower cummerbunds, Ascot ties, ascots and made-to-measure silk dressing gowns.
In their manufactory in a 100-years-old industrial building in Berlin Kreuz-berg, the 30 EDSOR KRONEN em-ployees are surrounded by Art Déco furniture, Modern Art and huge paisley scarves – the perfect atmosphere for artistic inspiration for the employees, who deploy their craftsmanship skills to create the hand-sewn EDSOR collec-tions with the finest Italian silk, luxuri-ous cashmere and high quality wool.
Since 2009, CEO Jan-Henrik M. Scheper-Stuke, younger than the EDSOR KRONEN manufactory by three quarters of a century, brings a breath of fresh air to the tradition-steeped company, extending the ED-SOR KRONEN collections by combin-ing the tradition of Berlin handmade production with numerous creative collaborations. EDSOR KRONEN: your companion on the return to style.
ExlusivE BErlin
handmadE quality
sincE 1909
Edsor Kronen
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58.
JapanEsE craftsmanship
sincE 1947
When K.K. Tsunemi wanted to follow his passion for denim in Tokyo, Japan in 1947, he had no choice but to import used denim directly from the U.S. since no denim was manufactured in Japan at the time. In 1961, he crafted the first pair of Edwin denim Jeans, the name playing on the word “denim” with the “m” turned upside down, creating the word “EDWIN”.
In 1963, Edwin produced the world’s heaviest ringspun denim (16 oz), featuring the famous tri-colour “Rain-bow” listed selvage. These jeans were so heavy and rigid that they were reputed for standing by themselves.
During the 1970s, Edwin developed “Old Wash” that replicated worn den-im, and introduced their “Stone Wash-ing” technique in the 1970s, commonly used in today’s denim manufacturing. In the 1990s, Edwin created the “New Vintage” concept, producing hand rep-lications of original vintage washes.
With craftsmanship and innovation at the heart of their identity, Edwin use exclusive fabrics while employing unique technology, hand wash process-es and continual progression in design and fit. Edwin always stayed close to the Japanese roots, gaining inspiration from their historical denim archive dating back to 1947.
Edwin
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60.
complEtEly
rEnEwEd
As a member of the “Osaka Five”, Evisu is considered one of the five most influential Japanese brands in denim history.
Hidehiko Yamane, Japanese denim collector, importer, and trained tailor, founded the denim brand and manu-facturer Evisu in 1991 in Osaka, Japan, naming it after the Japanese god of prosperity. Yamane had set out to re-produce the perfect pair of vintage jeans on original shuttle looms, his model being the classic 1944 Levi’s® 501xx. The back pocket logo is rep-resented by a hand painted, stylized seagull which many consider one of the most recognizable logos in the world.
Evisu, and Yamane, are credited with initiating the revival of vintage denim
Since mid-2009, Scott Morrison, founder and designer of both Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn, has taken the reigns as Evisu’s CEO and Creative Director, determined to reestablish the brand’s focus on prod-uct quality and craftsmanship, and to maintain the authenticity by returning to Evisu’s iconic heritage.
The new collection of denim, cloth-ing, outerwear and bags are an up-dated reference to classic clothing, denim and workwear style for both men and women. This is completely re-newed Evisu.
Evisu
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62.
When the Great Clondike Gold Rush started in 1897, C.C. Filson outfitted the fortune hunters rushing through Seat-tle on their way north. The men were in need of a barrier against temperatures up to -50 °C. At the time, clothing was a matter of survival. Filson had the solu-tion: best handcrafted, tough protective wear, comfortable, functional outdoor clothing. “If a man is going North, he should come to us for his outfit.” was the Filson claim in those days.
Since then, Filson products made in U.S.A. have earned a worldwide repu-tation for their quality and durability. Hunters, fishermen, engineers, explor-ers, mariners, and miners have valued the rugged quality duffle bags, tote bags, sweaters, jackets, and belts. To-day, adventurers in the business world can carry their laptop in a reliable
Filson bag throughout their various quests. The attention to detail is ap-parent everywhere: “Cover”, “Shelter” and “Tin” cloths are made of extremely dense woven cotton, soaked in a special, paraffin-based wax. The leather used by Filson is cut from the strongest parts of the cow skin, and tanned vegetal. Only 100 percent Virgin wool is used, for the fibres come straight from the sheep and have ideal insolating and water absorbing qualities.
Filson bags are the toughest luggage you’ll ever own: Filson claim to have once even lifted a 230 pounds heavy 1968, 1,500 c,c, Single Port Volkswa-gen engine in one of their Extra Large Duffle bags, six feet in the air. Both bag and engine survived the experiment. These unique, all-natural products are truly made for a lifetime.
Filson
madE for a lifEtimE
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64.
Educated at the Art Academy in The Hague, Amsterdam artist Fred de la Bretonière soon discovered his passion for shoe and bag designs and founded his label Fred de la Bretonière 40 years ago. The strength of the brand is the use of natural materials to create timeless designs.
Fred’s initial inspiration was to design shoes and bags that would enhance a woman’s personality and that they would love and want to wear year after year. His motto: designed to make you feel better with every step you take. For his products, only veg-etable-tanned leather is used, looking better the more it is worn – just like jeans do.
In his unique bag and shoes collec-tions, now including men and children shoes as well, the individualistic de-signer continues to combine quality with durability and a pure sense of style.
The current collection features rich and valuable materials, a colour-ful, spicy winter cocktail with perfect proportions, careful leather selections and fine detailing. It is a robust col-lection with an elegant touch, a jour-ney through space and time, inspired by Roman as well as Indian styles. A selection of shoes, bracelets and bags carries the celebration tag, honouring 40 years of classic, yet nonchalant and sturdy Fred de la Bretonière design.
for EvEry solE a soul
Fred de la Bretonière
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66.
2009 marked the year of the Fred Perry centenary: its founder, charis-matic British tennis legend and table tennis champion Frederick John Perry, was born in 1909 in Stockport, Great Britain. After winning Wimbledon and the Davis Cup several times, gaining him international fame, in 1952 Perry created innovative sweatbands and handed them out to the best tennis play-ers who wore them on court: the Fred Perry sportswear brand was born. He chose the laurel wreath, victorious sign on the Wimbledon medal and Davis Cup blazers he owned, as the logo for his stylish casual wear.
Over the past decades, Fred Perry became not only a global fashion brand, but also synonymous with subcultures driven by musical influences, the most famous ones being the British Mods, who adopted the Fred Perry shirts as their favourites. Today, Fred Perry still is the epitome of British streetwear.
Although the Fred Perry range today includes menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories, and collabo-rations as part of its Laurel concept collection, its signature piece remains the classic, slim piqué cotton shirt – the Fred Perry shirt.
hEritagE wovEn in
Fred Perry
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68.
Bidding farEwEll to
mass production
When founding casual luxury label Gilded Age, principal designer and creative director Stefan Miljanic was inspired by the craftsmanship of the early industrial revolution around the turn of 20th century: an era known as the “Gilded Age”.
The “Gilded Age” was a time of economic revival and technological progress, inventions and immigration: over 25 million immigrants from Northern, Western and Eastern Eu-rope came to the USA drawn by the promise of prosperity, many of them skilled craftsmen. Deeply committed to this era’s craftsmanship and textile production techniques predating mass production, Gilded Age follows organic, handcrafted and artisanal approaches to fabric and product development.
The Gilded Age men’s line is a mix of premium selvage jeans and luxury sportswear, made of organic materials, natural dyes and artisanal fabrics, giv-ing them a rugged, industrial look and natural feel.
The range includes selvage, natural indigo dyed jeans, shirts and sweaters hand knitted with the finest Mongolian cashmere yarns, authentic wool and cotton outerwear, bags made of the most durable materials, organic and natural knits produced on the oldest looms still in use, and natural and hand dyed pants and shorts.
All Gilded Age products are hand-crafted using vintage machinery: de-tailed craftsmanship instead of mass production.
Gilded Age
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70.
Infamous New York City district Hell’s Kitchen is a symbol of reinven-tion: from the city’s most rundown area, an underworld district with a gritty reputation from the 19th century on, when Irish immigrants lived there under horrible conditions – depicted in Scorsese’s film “Gangs of New York”, the Hell’s Kitchen district developed into a creative hotspot.
When Marco Lai, a young Italian fashion designer from Verona, founded his recycled fashion label in 2006, he named it “Hell’s Kitchen” as a refer-ence to the general ability of trans-
formation and metamorphosis.Inspiration struck Lai when he was
repairing a flat tyre on his bike, ask-ing himself: Why not use the tyre it-self as if it were a type of leather or cloth? Subsequently, Lai’s Hell’s Kitch-en brand takes used materials such as inner car tubes, car seat belts and old shirts, and recycles them into unique urban accessories: bags, helmets, wal-lets and the papermills collection with notebooks, all made of strictly recy-cled materials brought back to life. Ecological and resistant: 100 % chic recycle!
100% chic rEcyclE
hell’s Kitchen
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72.
hollywood trading
company
In 1993, Zip Stevenson started col-lecting authentic vintage leather belts at flea markets all over the USA. Stevenson quickly learned about peo-ple’s love affair with classic, hand-made accessories, the most intricately designed ones proved to be the most popular. Recognising this, Stevenson decided to launch a limited edition col-lection of replicas of the old vintage belts he had discovered at the flea markets, and founded his brand HTC - Hollywood Trading Company in Santa Monica, California in 2000.
In the same year, Stevenson started a collaboration with Andrea Brà, who, with his LCB Company, produces ar-
tisan Made in Italy accessories and shares a passion for vintage with Ste-venson. Later, it’s up to Chicco Barina with Home Made Company to repeat the same operation creating the HTC den-im line: today HTC is one of the main brands in the casual deluxe field worn by the most famous people in the Hol-lywood star system and it’s distributed on all five continents.
The HTC great variety of belts, mostly beautifully studded, the jeans, shirts with vintage L.A. style graphics, leather jackets and bags, are inspired by vintage classics, each product pos-sessing a rough-hewn, time-honoured feel and an aged, vintage look.
hTC
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74.
Inis Meáin (Gaelic for Middle Island) is one of the Aran Islands which lie at the mouth of Galway Bay on the west coast of Ireland. It is just 3 miles across, and has a population of 200 people. Here, Inis Meáin Knitting Company is the main employer, keeping the Aran tradition of practical fishermen’s gar-ments alive while continuously improv-ing and developing it in terms of design and quality.
Those cabled and patterned knits that have kept island fishermen warm for generations come in cowl necks, shawl collars, hoodies and zippers. Then there are simpler knits – GANSEYS – after the style of the sweaters that islanders wore every day with plain crew necks and button necks.
But Aran knits are more than just cables and diamonds: the Inis Meáin collections show that island knitters were always remarkably versatile with their knitting pins.
For AW 2010, Inis Meáin have taken two very distinctive patterns from the knitters archives on the island to in-troduce colours inspired by the Aran landscape and the sea in a beautiful and subtle way: the FAROESE pattern blended with the FAIRISLE stitch, and the three-colour TWEED stitch.
Apart from this, the AW collec-tion shows beautiful Donegal knits in the classic jersey stitch and in clas-sic shapes. Bright and soft mufflers and hats complete the collection: Aran atmosphere translated into fashion!
Inis Meá in
livE aran tradition
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76.
The Lee 101 collection is a rousing celebration of Lee’s incredible herit-age, designed to appeal to the modern denim lover.
This collection revisits Authentic Lee Classics like the legendary 101B and 101Z jeans or even the iconic Storm Rider Jacket to result in a stunning contemporary collection.
With the same tribute to quality and attention to detail as since 1911 when the company started to make high-quality work wear and iconic cowboy jeans, this collection is moving Lee into the future for another generation of denim lovers.
It is a collection of noble heritage & fresh modernity, guaranteed to appeal to both fashion-seekers and purists.
a modErn cElEBration
of thE lEE icons
Lee 101
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78.
Lee The Archives is a range of su-perior selvage denim that exactly rep-licates a selection of the company’s iconic originals.
Exclusively produced in Japan, all pieces are passionately reproduced by the same vintage sewing, cutting and weaving machines as in the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s.
The Archives collection is fash-ioned from the companies trademark 13 ounce indigo selvage denim and employs exactly the same zips, labels, buttons, stitches and rivets that so marked the originals.
Gleaned from Lee’s magnificent 120 year old archive, each item is a piece of history, originally engineered for railroad workers, cowboys and farm-ers who all had a demand for clothing
that was strong and protective. They combine comfort, durability and func-tion with a no nonsense design ethic since 1889.
Lee The Archives simply allows the company’s distinguished history to speak for itself and comprises unique pieces like the famous mechanic’s overall known as the Union-All, in-vented by H.D. Lee himself in 1913, the legendary Lee Cowboy 101B jean from 1924, the revolutionary first ever zip fly 101Z jean from 1926 and the thoroughly essential blanket lined Storm Rider Jacket.
Brought out in a limited edition as a celebration of our roots, Lee The Archives are true collector’s items for the real denim devotee.
Lee The Archives
iconic originals
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80.
In an increasingly fast-moving world, authenticity becomes more es-sential. Designed and distributed by Levi’s® XX, the newly created global Levi Strauss & Co. division, Levi’s® Made & Crafted answers the growing demand for consistency and timeless clothes. Quality, versatility, and sim-plicity are the main elements of the
brand, reflected in fine natural fibers and ultra tactile mixed materials.
Combining today’s modern lifestyle with a commitment to craftsmanship, Levi’s® Made & Crafted provides an everyday wardrobe for pavement-pounding urbanites as well as those who prefer being barefoot in the grass.
Levi’s® Made & Crafted
quality, vErsatility,
simplicity
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82.
As the “HEART AND SOUL” of the Levi’s® brand, Levi’s® Vintage Cloth-ing keeps the history of Levi’s® denim alive: since 1999, the famous historical originals from the Levi’s® archives in San Francisco, dating back to 1880, are faithfully reincarnated in this limited edition range.
The rigid jeans are handcrafted reproductions made in U.S.A. – the ring-denim is woven on 29” wide old vintage shuttle looms by Cone Mills, with whom Levi Strauss & Co have been working for 100 years.
Back to thE roots
Levi’s® Vintage Clothing
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84.
The new denim brand Lost Angle, whose name hints at reviving peo-ple’s lost angle with their vintage style collection, debuted in Japan in 2008, instantly enjoying great success there. On offer: “luxury at affordable prices”.
100 % designed and produced in Ja-pan, Lost Angle combines high qual-ity Japanese denim with the stylistic influences of Tokyo’s raw creativity: for Lost Angle, designers of the Grangy company in Tokyo cooperate with the traditional denim producers of Okato-mo Textile from Ibara city.
Okatomo Textile has been producing denim in Ibara city for over 40 years. Ibara city, located in the Okayama pre-fecture of Japan, is a town well-known
for its superb textile industry, taking pride in their top-of-the-line manu-facturing techniques. The town is known as “the birthplace of Japanese denim”, with its craftsmen’s experi-ence stemming from their tradition of high-quality denim manufacturing for generations, fusing avant-garde and nostalgia in their fabrics. Ibara city is one of the few places where indigo dye works from the Edo period (1603-1868) can still be found.
Apart from its high-quality denim products, the Lost Angle range in-cludes T-Shirts, hoodies, blazers, vintage leather jackets and boots. For Fall/Winter 2010, Lost Angle launches distribution in Germany, Aus-tria, Switzerland and the UK.
coming from thE Birth-
placE of JapanEsE dEnim
Lost Angle
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86.
Established in Vienna, Austria in 1885, the Ludwig Reiter shoe manufac-tory is a family run company producing top quality handmade shoes and leather goods in the fourth generation.
Particular Ludwig Reiter tradition is the handmade production of Good-year-welted shoes in the classic Vien-nese style. Additionally, Ludwig Reiter has developed a wide range of high-grade casual shoes, fine leather goods and other accessories. The shoes are carefully made by hand, and most of the styles can be individually produced as customized orders.
The Ludwig Reiter production is presently being relocated to the new-ly renovated historical castle Schloss Süssenbrunn in the north of Vienna. The beautiful, listed castle originates in a medieval knights estate that was first redesigned into a noble Renais-sance castle in the 16th century and then in the Early Romantic architec-tural style around 1830.
Today, Ludwig Reiter combines an experience of more than 120 years of fine craftsmanship with contemporary requirements and style: the future of tradition.
thE futurE
of tradition
Ludwig Reiter
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88.
In 1874, William Lyle and Walter Scott began a knitwear company in-stantly creating a reputation for well-respected, high quality garments man-ufactured in Hawick, Scotland.
From humble beginnings selling well-constructed hosiery and under-garments, Lyle and Scott branched out into knitted outerwear for golf twin sets, sweaters, cardigans and jackets. Soon after, the company expanded into other markets around the world with the help of Y-front underpants for men and even a cashmere collection de-signed by Christian Dior in the early 1960s. This was also the time when the Golden Eagle was established as the Lyle & Scott motif. Over the years, nu-merous golfers wore the Lyle & Scott golf range to victory, and in 1975, Lyle
& Scott obtained the Royal Warrant by HRH the Duke of Edinburgh, reinforc-ing the brand’s heritage and quality up to today.
In 2001, paying homage to the brand’s past success, the Lyle & Scott Vintage range was created – an authentic trend range inspired by the colourful designs of the 70s and 80s. The current col-lection features smart sophisticated sportswear references with under-tones of modernism and abstract de-sign, slim indie silhouettes, Aran and Guernsey fisherman-inspired styles as well as preppy French Breton style stripe tops. Lyle & Scott Vintage won the Drapers Award for “Young Fashion Brand of the Year” in 2009, showing the brand’s reputation that has been growing for 136 years now.
modErn, authEntic,
iconic
Lyle & scott
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90.
Marithé and François Girbaud are unrelenting seekers of new fabrics, washes and treatments. For the last 40 years, they have worked from stone to light, from STONEWASH to WATTWASH™, from industrial wash to laser treatment. Their name and reputation are internationally estab-lished and their works are recognized and appreciated worldwide. Constantly experimenting with raw materials and reviewing both structures and shapes, Marithé and François Girbaud discov-ered new fabrics which enabled them to created innovative garments in a constant state of evolution.
“Use the light, save the water” is the motto of the WATTWASH™ treatment. The result: 97.5% waterfree jeans.
The WattWash™ is a laser treatment that revolutionizes all fabrics using artificial light and economizing more than 700 litres of water per jeans. Combining the WattWash and the tex-tile effects realized by the laser, the final product is revolutionary.
Today, it is fundamental to focus on economizing water and on com-municating the evolution between the StoneWash and the WattWash™. If the industry continues to faithfully follow Marithé + François Girbaud as it has for decades, they suggest saving mil-lions of litres of water to be used in other ways than creating a “shabby look”.
There is still time to invent a new tomorrow.
constructors of
intElligEnt garmEnts
Marithé + François Girbaud
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92.
thE mystErious talE
of mastEr smith
Now, who was – or better – who is this fellow Master Smith?
Master Smith is a legend, a strange occurrence, a mystery – inscrutable and misty like some sort of specter.
Legend has it that his name can be found on the payrolls of the whalers Essex’ and Peqoud’s penultimate jour-neys. He searched with the British for the sources of the Nile, and some say he accompanied Mallory and Irvine on their famous lost expedition to conquer Mount Everest. Others claimed to have seen him onboard the Norge as he flew over the north pole with admiral Nobile and R. Amundsen.
Master Smith was allegedly one of the international airmail pilots who traveled over the Pacific Ocean in their infamous China Clipper. He was one of few break-neck pilots who risked it all at the Cleveland Air Races. His red and white GeeBee is a testament
to his guts until this very day. During the years of the Great Depression, he brought home the bacon by starring in a death-defying motorcycle stunt show at a traveling carnival. He amazed the folks with his display of courage and fearlessness, being the first man to ride a frame-stripped Indian on the vertical planks of the Wall of Death – backwards and free-hand!
No ocean too deep, no breeze too stiff, no mountain too high, no flight too far, or in short: no adventure too daring. Master Smith was forever young like Peter Pan and always out on the move like the legendary Flying Dutchman.
He was the strong silent type. But all folks who traveled by his side remember his gritty smile and his witty mantra: “Mind the details, man. Mind the details!”
Don’t miss Master Smith!
Master smith
©ol
afta
mm
.de
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94.
Massimo Osti, designer and creator of brands such as CP Company, Stone Island, Bonneville and Left Hand, founded Osti Studio in 1970. With the results of his experiments and new methods of fabric treatment, Massimo Osti revolutionized the industry until his death in 2005.
Now, Osti’s daughter Agata and his son Lorenzo do their utmost to contin-ue their father’s legacy by collaborat-ing with Donrad Duncan, former Crea-tive Director at the Victorinox/Swiss Army line. The result of this collabo-ration: the highly innovative menswear collection MA.STRUM.
MA.STRUM, which debuted in Fall/Winter 09, features pieces inspired by
the Massimo Osti Archive – a combi-nation of the traditional Massimo Osti style with groundbreaking high-tech fabrics and high-tech design. In parts of the MA.STRUM collection, wear-able technology is integrated into the fabrics or the embedded accessories.
The MA.STRUM principle is to pro-vide products that combine qualities such as timelessness, functionality and beauty, and on the other hand to create cuts and styles that apply to a broad audience. With MA.STRUM, Donrad Duncan creates high-quality, functional clothes that are comfortable yet stylish, and continues the Massimo Osti legacy.
thE massimo
osti lEgacy
MA.sTRuM
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96.
With a history of more than 300 years, Meindl produces mens and wo-mens leatherwear collections and outdoor shoes in Kirchanschöring, a small borough in the Bavarian prov-ince of Traunstein. The Meindl signa-ture piece are the traditional Bavarian short leather pants, first tailored by Lukas Meindl in 1935.
Elaborately manufactured and art-fully embroidered, the high-quality Meindl leather pants and garments are made of the best buckskin and with perfected craftsmanship, provid-ing the best possible wearing comfort. The Meindl style is inspired by the life in the Bavarian Alps, and Meindl prod-
ucts convey this characteristic lifestyle throughout the world.
The unrestricted Meindl strive for best quality materials and timeless de-sign, lasting for over three centuries now, continues to pay off: today, near-ly 500 workers are producing Meindl outdoor boots and leatherwear, always respecting the Meindl tradition of craftsmanship and dedication to qual-ity and service. Notwithstanding the traditional attitude, increasing atten-tion is paid to environmental aspects such as the recyclability of the manu-factured materials.
Meindl: a true Bavarian original kee-ping up with the times.
thE Bavarian original
Meindl
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98.
knitwEar
dEsign ExcEllEncE
Ever since 1981, Morrison is re-known for producing high-quality knitwear, manufactured with great care by traditionally skilled crafts-men in the Scottish highlands. Each garment is handled individually and tenderly throughout its entire produc-tion, from the first precise stitch to the delicate pressing and folding.
Now, the second generation respects the tradition of the hand crafted finishing technique, but in order to
innovate, they have created a new line: Howlin’. While the Morrison label will stay unaltered, the younger Howlin’ offers more room for fantasy in terms of shape and patterns.
From the design stage through to each area of manufacture, both Morrison and Howlin’ strive for the best, and successfully combine tradi-tion with modern techniques to pro-duce garments unparalleled in design excellence.
Morrison and howlin’
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100.
In 2001, Arnaud Zannier and En-rique Corbi, who had both been in the shoe business for ten years already, decided to set out on their mission to provide the footwear industry with a new dimension in men’s and ladies footwear: n.d.c. made by hand.
n.d.c., the French abbreviation for code name, nome de code, refers to the core element of the footwear and ac-cessories brand’s philosophy: the prod-uct itself, artisan handcrafted with luxurious leathers carefully selected from the best tanneries in Europe.
Each n.d.c. made by hand collection is produced by employing a great vari-ety of traditional materials and finish-ing techniques.
The n.d.c. made by hand passion for shoes is reflected in their indispensa-ble, rejuvenated classics for footwear enthusiasts that can truly be referred to as timeless works of art – these shoes are collector’s items out-living fashions, for all those seeking a style of understated individualism beyond trends.
The range was extended from shoes to bags, wallets, and accessories, all of them handmade, and sold in a number of the finest stores worldwide. The n.d.c. made by hand success story proves that following the main princi-ples of simplicity, quality, originality and constructional know-how result in true works of art.
works of art
n.d.c. made by hand
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102.
Nudie Jeans is a Swedish denim brand that started in 2001. They love jeans, a passion they share with eve-ryone who mourns a pair of worn out jeans as a close friend. Besides denim, only leather has the ability to age so beautifully - formed by its user into a second skin. Your jeans live your life-style. The longer you wear them, the more character and attitude they get.
The Dry Selvage program is a spe-cial concept with Nudie Jeans’ best selvage denim. They have selected their highest denim qualities, denim with cashmere, with hemp and with organic cotton. These fabrics are made on old, narrow looms.
All dry selvage jeans have the sel-vage edge coin pocket and silver trims. Nudie Jeans’ four top-of-the-line qual-ities are delivered in handmade wood-en boxes, containing the Nudie Jeans selvage book. Nudie Jeans Selvage Lab has focused on the washes where Nudie Jeans has a strong reputation: washes with a genuine feeling for the real authentic look of naturally worn in garments.
The Nudie Jeans Selvage Lab range is growing each season. This season, they offer two new washes, both of them replicas of old worn in jeans. They will be delivered in a stone washed selvage denim bag with a book.
thE nakEd truth
aBout dEnim
nudie Jeans Co
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104.
It is a small, yellowed photo, taken in 1913: two Swedish men in dirty gold miner clothes in Colorado, USA. One of them is Erik Svensson. He is wear-ing demin trousers and jacket, just as most gold miners did in those days. Inspired by Erik Svensson’s workwear and life story, his grandsons Klas and Joakim Bonér were part of the Swed-ish team that founded the jeans label PACE Jeans in 2003. Their first range was launched in spring 2004.
PACE Jeans denim is produced the traditional vintage way on original shuttle looms in small mills around Osaka, Japan. The denim is a right hand twill, ring spun in warp and weft. Significant details include split side seams, chainstitching on hem, tab and patch in real leather, buttons with the Pace Jeans gearwheel logo in
steel finish, antique copper YKK zip-pers, strengthened pocket openings on all models and rivets in real genuine copper. All denims are pre-shrunk.
The PACE Jeans design team is fre-quently joined by varying artists, in-cluding collaborations with Swedish painter John E Franzén or tattoo artist Sebastian, who contributed the PACE Jeans icon: a cartoon magpie.
Current highlight is the PACE Jeans limited premium line, in collaboration with the denim nerds Blue highway, featuring high quality retro fits in a very “goldminerish“ style with buckle backs and denim woven on traditional 29 inch looms with selvedge and hand casted rivets: a tribute to Klas’ and Joakim’s grandfather Erik Svensson, the gold miner.
inspirEd By
a gold minEr
PACE Jeans
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106.
valvErdE classics
Valverde del Camino in Andalusia, Spain has been an old silver mining district for centuries already, its name derived from its green fields and its proximity to the “Silver Street”. Since the 19th century, the “banquilleros” of Valverde traditionally produce robust, resistant boots and shoes for hard work in the field, the mountains or in the silver mine.
In 1989, the company Valverdeña del Calzado S.L. created the Prime-boots brand in Valverde. The Prime-boots are still hand-crafted in the tra-ditional Valverde style in two stages:
first, the shaft, insole and leather welt are stitched together by the Goodyear seam. The second step in the produc-tion: welt and outsole are stitched together using the welt seam. This production process unites breathabil-ity and adaptation in a perfect fit.
Mens and womens Primeboots come in BikerUrban, Engineer, Western, Ranch Work, and Mountain-Adventure lines. They all share the high-quality hand-made manufacturing and the classic, timeless look that is typical of Primeboots.
Primeboots
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108.
Prps founder and creative director Donwan Harrell grew up in North Carolina and Virginia Beach, USA, in a logging and hunting family, appreciat-ing the practical attire his family wore at work: every garment detail had its function, the clothes were products with a purpose. This inspired Harrell, so that when he founded his denim la-bel in 2003, he named it Prps, short for product with a purpose, and continues to put great emphasis on the function-ality of the jeans.
For the Prps jeans, only the finest organic cotton of the African continent is used, since it has a great capabil-ity of soaking up the indigo due to its crisp handle and irregular slub pattern. The cotton is then shipped to Japan:
admiring the Japanese for their crafts-manship, Harrell decided to have the Prps jeans produced by select Japa-nese denim manufacturers in small towns throughout Japan – master craftsmen whose experience has been passed down from generations before them. They produce the denim exclu-sively on vintage shuttle looms, result-ing in what Prps proudly calls “the fin-est product available”.
Prps jeans are “bruised, not broken”: the distressing and aging process is regarded with immaculate attention to detail, and no two pairs of Prps jeans are alike. The result is as natural and authentic as possible, since it is the Prps objective to obtain the most real-istically aged washed jean.
product with a purposE
Prps
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110.
Established by Charles H. Beckman in 1905 in the quiet river town of Red Wing, Minnesota, the Red Wing Shoes Company initially produced boots for soldiers and workers on farms, in oil fields and factories. The company soon developed a reputation for making tough and comfortable boots for tough and hard-working people: by 1915, pro-duction had reached 200,000 pairs of Red Wing Shoes annually. As working conditions evolved, and denim became more than workwear, so did the Red Wing Shoes styles. By 1985, production had reached 2 million pairs per year.
Today, Red Wing Shoes are sold in more than 100 countries. Thousands of pairs are produced each day mainly
by hand with the Red Wing Leathers as signature components: only finest quality leather is used, every inch of it thoroughly inspected. Production still takes place in the town of Red Wing, Minnesota.
Red Wing Shoes have become au-thentic and genuine timeless classics, such as the Red Wing Engineer Boot that has stayed unchanged for decades. The boots and shoes are both workwear and fashion: Red Wings work best with denim!
For over a century now, the Red Wing Shoes Company has stayed true to its strict commitment to the basic principles of style, quality, craftsman-ship, durability and comfort.
timElEss classics
Red Wing shoes
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112.
australian Boots
sincE 1932
Born in 1908 on a farm in South Australia, Reginald Murray Williams crossed the Australian central western deserts while working as a camel boy for a missionary. During their trips, he learned valuable bush lore and survival skills from the aboriginal people and stockman skills from the stockmen of the desert fringe cattle stations. But it was meeting an itinerant saddler named Dollar Mick, who taught him the skills in leather working and craft-ing, that marked the true beginning of young R.M. Williams’ life’s work.
He set up his first small shoe fac-tory in 1932, and over the following decades, the company grew rapidly, diversifying, apart from boots, into bush saddlery, equipment, moleskins, jeans and bush shirts: R.M. Williams became the bush outfitter, supplying
everything essential to Australian life. The first R.M. Williams stores opened in 1978.
Today, the oil-impregnated riding, work and elastic boots are the back-bone of the R.M. Williams business. For their boots, only the best leath-ers are used, such as cowhide, “wil-low” (chrome tanned oxhide), yearling, and suede leather, just to name a few. Undergoing 80 handheld processes, each R.M. Williams boot is comfort-able, supple, and easily moulds to the foot. These high-quality, strong and durable boots feature welt soles with 21 defined features, and vegetable-tanned leather insoles.
The uppers of the R.M. Williams boots are made from only one piece of leather, thereby producing the typical clean and classic lines.
R.M. Williams
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114.
A classic American success story: in 1913, Irving and Jack Schott, sons of Russian immigrants, started pro-ducing raincoats in a basement in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. After only two years, they opened a factory in Staten Island, NY, and soon Schott NYC claimed to be the first brand to “put a zipper on a jacket”. In 1928, Irving Schott designed and produced the first leather motorcycle jacket: the Perfecto, named after Irving Schott’s favourite cigar. The Perfecto was ini-tially sold for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor,
When legendary actor Marlon Bran-do wore his Schott Perfecto in “The Wild Ones” in 1954, he turned the jacket
into the favourite of a whole genera-tion. It was associated with danger and excitement. Later, James Dean and his Perfecto became inseparable, further-ing its iconic status – the Perfecto be-came a symbol of rebellion, and was temporarily even banned by schools.
Today, the fourth generation of the Schott family still produces the core of its range - now including, among leather jackets and motorcycle ap-parel, also a large range of cloth prod-ucts and accessories - in the nearly 100 year old factory right of outside of New York City. Quality, innovation, and individuality remain the main princi-ples of Schott NYC – a real American original.
a truE-BluE, rEal-dEal,
piEcE of amEricana
schott nYC
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116.
For over a century, Seil Marschall has been producing finest quality ropes, their range was gradualy extended to incorporate outdoor clothing, shoes and accessories. Taking pride in its hand-made quality, the small company from Bad Waldsee, Germany claims that their best machines are still their hands.
Seil Marschall invests a lot of time in the production, with quality and sustainability as the main principles. Their outdoor clothing for hunting, leisure and adventure is made of loden from finest natural materials: wool or cashmere, Swiss cotton poplin or waxed cotton.
In the production of the hand-sewn moccasins and outdoor boots, the Seil Marschall shoe manufacture uses
strictly vegetal tanned leather, real lambskin, and wool felt. The moc-casins are completely lined with real lamb fur and have a natural crepe sole. Every stitch is hand sewn without any compromises regarding quality and comfort.
This principle also applies to the bags, produced in the Seil Marschall saddlery: only linen from the best weaving mills, vegetal tanned leath-er, wool felt pads and brazen metal fittings are used.
This exceptional craftsmanship quality cannot be produced in great quantities due to the time-consuming dedication to detail, making the Seil Marschall products exclusive and valu-able: timeless products for a lifelong use, not for waste.
handmadE in gErmany
sincE 1896
seil Marshall
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118.
For years, the Shabbies Amsterdam line has been a successful constant in the Fred de la Bretonière range. With its clear silhouettes, distinct profile and no-frills-style, this line enjoys grow-ing success while constantly evolving. Pure, strong and sturdy - the Shabbies Amsterdam style is characterized by classic simplicity.
Fred de la Bretonière has stayed true to the rugged look and robust and comfortable fit while experiment-ing with natural materials and colours each season.
The current Shabbies Amsterdam series is the perfect balance of new shapes as well as timeless classics, and has been enriched with sturdy commando heels and wedged leather soles.
With Shabbies Amsterdam, Fred de la Bretonière shows his social respon-sibility as well: a part of the proceeds of each pair of Shabbies Amsterdam goes to Elvira’s Children Home in Nepal, which supports orphans in Kathmandu.
classic simplicity
shabbies Amsterdam
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120.
In 1904, Isaac Spiewak started sell-ing handmade sheepskin vests in the streets of New York to the dock workers of Brooklyn and Manhattan. When business grew, his sons joined him, and soon I. Spiewak & Sons Inc. became one of the premier names in uniform workwear for soldiers, police and firemen.
In 1919, the golden fleeced flying ram logo was introduced, playing on the sheepskin used and inspired by the “Quest for the Golden Fleece” from Greek mythology. The logo proved to be fitting, since the Spiewak quest was crowned with success: in the course of the last century, Spiewak became one
of the biggest US workwear brands, known for its tough, enduring, and func-tional outerwear that shows maximum weather resistance even in the most unforgiving terrains on the globe.
Spiewak produces everything from arctic wear to military garments, and has stayed true to its authentic design, with the Spiewak Snorkel Parka re-maining at the heart of the collection.
Today, Spiewak continues to sell its performance wear to industrial work-ers and its smart stylish fashion out-erwear to a growing loyal community of Spiewak worshippers. The technical expertise of over 105 years has earned Spiewak a status that is truly iconic.
sincE 1904
spiewak
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122.
With just $60 in his pocket, John B. Stetson started hat manufacturing in Philadelphia in 1865. Trained by his fa-ther, a famous hatter, Stetson followed his motto “make things right and the best they can be” and produced felt hats such as his now legendary “Boss of the Plains” hat with growing suc-cess: Stetson hats became so popular among cowboys that the word Stetson became synonymous for cowboy hat. No other hat embodied the rugged American Western spirit better.
Soon, sales exploded, and at the be-ginning of the 20th century, Stetson belonged to the world’s most popular hat brands.
Until to today, Stetson has been able to keep its renowned reputation for legendary premium quality hats and has also extended the range. While earlier, Stetson represented the cowboy hat, nowadays, the collection includes not only authentic Westernwear, but also rugged Actionwear, contemporary Streetwear and elegant classics.
For over 140 years now, Stetson has stayed true to its authentic roots and the rugged image, while always inno-vating products and yet adhering to the core characteristics of the brand: authentic, honest, American, quality, rugged and individual.
stetson
it’s not Just a hat,
it’s thE hat.
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124.
The native New Yorker Steven Alan has been a leader in the fashion world on different levels: starting in 1994 as a retailer with stores in downtown Manhattan, he quickly earned a repu-tation as the curator of new, edgy fashion among his artistic young cus-tomers that were looking for original and unique clothing.
Since 1999, Steven Alan has been creating menswear - his shirts are a twist on the classic button down but with subtle details, perfect tailoring and an intricate washing process.
Only limited edition fine cotton fabrics, handpicked by Steven himself, are used.
Apart from the famous button down shirts, the Steven Alan range is now extended to mens and womens collec-tions and includes cashmere sweaters as well as suiting, shoes, dresses, out-erwear, and accessories, and is sold in the best shops worldwide.
Call it what you want, the Reverse Seam Button Down, Steven Alan’s sig-nature piece, is just that: the perfect shirt!
thE pErfEct shirt
steven Alan
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126.
Together with Japanese designers Hiroyuki Tange and Yasuhiro Matsuo, Hiroyuki Takeuchi, owner and founder of Takeuchi-Shoten Co LTD, created T.K. Garment Supply in Fukui, Japan, in 2005.
The designers meticulously collect vintage materials from all over the world, such as delicate silk trimmed from parachutes or vintage leather riding reigns. With these exception-al, 100% vintage materials steeped in history, they create the unique T.K. Garment supply products in their ex-clusive handmade artisan process.
The result: a trench made of weath-ered canvas, sheltering its wearer from the rain just as it once provided shelter
as an army tent in the mid-century, or tote bags made of weathered cotton with historical buckhorn details and aged wood culled from fallen ancient buildings.
The quality of the T.K. Garment Supply items can be felt, every seam is an inventive work of art. No machine can reproduce the richness of history, character and charm that the expert craftsmen fashion into every T.K. Garment Supply piece.
The T.K. Garment Supply products are a perfect balance between tra-dition, reinvention and imagination: every piece has a story of its “first life” to tell, a poetic dimension to be discovered.
thE richnEss
of history
T.K. Garment supply
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128.
An Emperor who cares for noth-ing but his wardrobe hires two weav-ers who promise him the finest suit of clothes from a fabric invisible to any-one who is unfit for his position or just hopelessly stupid.
The Emperor cannot see the cloth himself, but pretends that he can for fear of appearing unfit for his position or stupid; his ministers do the same. When the swindlers report that the
suit is finished, they dress him in mime and the Emperor then marches in pro-cession before his subjects. A child in the crowd calls out that the Emperor is wearing nothing at all and the cry is taken up by others. The Emperor cringes, suspecting the assertion is true, but holds himself up proudly and continues the procession.
(A short tale by Hans Christian An-dersen)
thE EmpEror’s nEw
clothEs
Ten C
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130.
Gothenburg, Sweden, in 1997: Per Andersson rummaged through the old ready-to-wears of his grandmother’s store, which had closed in the mid-1980s after 50 years of business. Convinced that the clothes were too beautiful to simply gather dust in the corner of a warehouse, Per opened the vintage shop Nostalgi in Gothenburg together with his friends to sell his grandmother’s stock.
Nostalgi quickly became the forum for the Gothenburg art scene, selling, along with the garments from Per’s grandmother’s ready-to-wear store, also re-makes, art, and design objects. Inspired by their creative customers, Per Andersson and his friends decided to design their own clothes under the
name “Velour” in 2002. In 2005, the first Velour collection was launched.
The Velour style is a classic preppy look with traditional garments rede-signed in a new stylish yet effortless way: Velour calls it “Feelgood Preppy”, inspired by Gothenburg’s main influ-ences: the sea, the harbour and the un-derground music scene.
Velour mens and womens cardigans, check shirts, parkas and waxed coats come in muted colours with daring accents. Many of the Velour shirts and cotton dresses are made from organic cotton. Beautiful bags and shoes com-plete the range, addressed to curious, reflective customers who value individ-ually reinterpreted trends.
fEElgood prEppy
Velour
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132.
If you are an individualist, free-spirited but level-headed, windsor. is your choice.
Style, not fashion, is the value prin-ciple of the German premium brand, originally set up in 1889 as the Roos & Kahn gentlemen’s clothing factory in Bielefeld, Germany by the two busi-nessmen Leo Roos and Isidor Kahn.
For over a century now, the brand has continued to create its high-quality, elegant men’s collections for discern-ing, confident connoisseurs who value distinctive cuts. The name windsor., paying homage to English luxury fabrics, was established in 1960.
In 1977, the range was extended by a windsor. women collection that quickly
established itself as an independent superior label.
The result of windsor.’s strive for perfection and best quality: innovative and exclusive products, created with premium Italian fabrics, timeless yet modern classics with a causal touch. The windsor. coats, trousers, jack-ets, suits and sports jackets stand out due to their tailoring perfection and attention to detail.
Throughout the years, windsor. has always stayed true to its original philosophy of combining craftsman-ship with design, roots with progress, and quality with aesthetics. windsor. is not a fashion label but a lifestyle statement.
confidEnt
undErstatEmEnt
windsor. men
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134.
sincE 1883
Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection
In 1883 G.A. Krause, coming from a long line of leather tanners and boot makers, built the company Wolverine World Wide, Inc. in Rockford, Michigan on his dream of producing finely craft-ed footwear using the best materials. His best seller was the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe introduced in 1914, which combined classic design and function. Soon, the company became one of the first nationally advertised boot brands of the USA, telling “gentlemen and farmers” of their shell-horsehide boots comfortable enough to walk 1,000 miles in them.
With the 1000 Mile Collection, Wolverine now honours its heritage, based on the objectives of comfort, durability, function and style. Vintage
inspiration and distinctive detailing are main features of the welt constructed 1000 Mile Boots, the cornerstone of the collection. Also featured in the 1000 Mile Collection are the Gentleman collection, inspired by “original work-ingman” designs from the early 1930’s and 1940s, the Garrison Collection, inspired by work and military boot designs, and the Gentry Collection, inspired by traditional field boots, showcasing Wolverine’s history of creating high-end hunting and outdoor boots.
All 1000 Mile Collection models are based on original designs from the Wolverine archives, and continue Wolverine’s century-long heritage of providing comfort and durability.
nOTEs
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l.o.c.k.
laBEls of common kin
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BrEad & ButtEr BErlin
sEE you in summEr 2010!
l.o.c.k.
laBEls of common kin
LOCK.indd 1 11-12-2009 11:21:52
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