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B O O K

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BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN

wINTER 2012

L.o.c.k.

LABELs of commoN kIN

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B o o k

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wINTER 2012

PUBLISHERBREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KGMünzstraße 1310178 Berlin, Germany

EDITORIAL OFFICEBREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KGCorporate PublishingMünzstraße 1310178 Berlin, GermanyTel. +49 (0)30 400 44 0Fax +49 (0)30 400 44 101www.breadandbutter.com

DISCLAIMERThe L.O.C.K. Book is published by  BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG, Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany. Contributions in which the author or company is named,  do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Place of jurisdiction is  Berlin, Germany.

COPYRIGHTAll rights reserved by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG. The copying of graphic design or information with regard to the use of texts fragments of texts or image  material demands prior written consent from the publisher.

IMAGES & LOGOTYPES Delivered by and property of the respective L.O.C.K. brands.

MANAGING EDITORJenny Boers 

CREATIVE DIRECTIONRobert Dizdarevic

GRAPHIC DESIGN & IMAGE EDITINGAnja Decker

ADVERTISINGJenny BoersAlex Kernlinger

PRODUCTIONKathleen Hiller

PRINTINGDruckhaus Schöneweide GmbHBallinstraße 1512359 Berlin, Germany

CIRCULATION4.000 copies

IMPRINT

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06.

WELCOMEby Alex Kernlinger  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 08

SPECIAL FEATURESNigel Cabourn  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10The Heritage Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Blauer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Dukes Finest Artisan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

L.O.C.K. - Labels of Common Kin Winter 2012 BRANDS:AG Adriano Goldschmied Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Aigle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Armor Lux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Bailey of Hollywood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Barbour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Blauer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36B.D. Baggies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Bleu de Chauffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40Blue de Gênes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Brooklyn Motors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Buttero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Canada Goose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Carhartt Work in Progress   . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic.  . 52Clip & Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Danner  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Dehen 1920 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Denham the jeanmaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Dr. Martens  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Driza-Bone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Dukes Finest Artisan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Dunderdon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Edwin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Etiquette Clothiers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Farah Vintage  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Fidelity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Filson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Fred Perry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Frye  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82G.R.P.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Gloverall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Goorin Bros.   . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Grenson .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Halcyon Belts   . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Hartford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Heschung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Holubar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Inis Meáin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100John Partridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

Johnson Motors, Inc.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104K.O.I.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106K-Way . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Laco  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Levi’s® Made & Crafted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Levi’s® Vintage Clothing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Ludwig Reiter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Lyle & Scott  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Makr Carry Goods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Meindl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Merz b. Schwanen  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Millican . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126n.d.c. made by hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Natural Selection Denim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Nigel Cabourn  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp.  . . . . . . . 134Nudie Jeans co.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136One True Saxon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Pace Jeans  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Pantherella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Penfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Preventi  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Primeboots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Prps Japan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Prps Goods & Co  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Quoddy  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154R.M. Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156RE:  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Redux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Red Wing Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Roy Rogers Rugged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Saint James  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Salvatore Piccolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Schiesser Revival . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Schott N.Y.C.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Seil Marschall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Sorel  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Sportswear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Stetson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Stockman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Tellason . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Ten c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186the last conspiracy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Tricker’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190TST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Viberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Wiggys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196windsor.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Wolsey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200Wolverine 1000 Mile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Woolrich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204

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CONTENT

08.

Growth  means  more,  development means getting better. The L.O.C.K. has been working on this challenge every single season. The community is grow-ing; fine tuning is on our daily agenda. The main target still remains to offer a unique and concentrated trading plat-form,  where  a  selection  of  authentic  exhibitors  meet  the  adequate  buyers and press from all over the globe.

For those who believe in quality, the 6th season of L.O.C.K. will  serve you well: more than 90 Labels of Common Kin proudly showcase their  individual USP at the Winter 2012 show. Due to the huge demand from upcoming authentic labels we expanded the L.O.C.K.’s main hall with the former fire station of Air-port Berlin-Tempelhof. 

A careful selection of those who are travelling around the globe, showing their passionate creations, generating their  orders  locally  and  move  on  globally, 

come together at the new FIRE DEPT. at  the head of  the L.O.C.K. hall. This new spot also features the Halligan’s, a  coffee bar  on  the first floor, where you can experience coffee roasting the L.O.C.K. way.

The heart of the main L.O.C.K. hall remains the place to recharge and take a break for good food and beverages: The Craftsman’s Canteen. 

At the L.O.C.K., we are very proud to serve you with new big players and the niche offspring.

But beside this strong upgrade of the L.O.C.K. by the new ones, the solid fun-dament is run by those who committed their participation every single season; some  of  them already  since  the  very first L.O.C.K. I want to cordially thank you for supporting us in any decision we made so far. This sustainable partner-ship is the core for prosperous business, the mission statement of L.O.C.K. As 

L.o.c.k.

LABELs of commoN kIN

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WELCOME

09.

Victorian  philanthropist  John Ruskin put it: “There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person’s lawful prey. It is unwise to pay too much, but it is also unwise to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything because the thing you bought is incapa-ble of doing the thing you bought it to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a 

lot…it can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you do that you will have enough to pay for some-thing better.”

In  this  5th  edition  of  the  L.O.C.K. book we proudly present the Labels of Common Kin at BREAD & BUTTER in Winter 2012.Enjoy exploring!

Alex.ander Kernlinger

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DEDIcATED

To A fANTAsTIc fEATOn January 18th 1912, Captain Robert Falcon Scott, along

with four fellow comrades, became the first British explorers to reach the

South Pole. Along the way they endured -40°c temperatures and crippling

winds. On their return from the Pole, Scott and his comrades

all perished from exhaustion, starvation and extreme cold.

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NIgEL CABOuRN

11.

The Nigel Cabourn Authentic Winter 2012 Collection is inspired by the 100th Anniversary of this historic event. 

In preparation for this monumental celebration, Nigel Cabourn visited the Scott Polar Research  Institute at  the University  of  Cambridge.  Founded in  1920  to  honour  the  achievements of  Captain  R.F.  Scott  and  his  col-leagues,  the  Scott  PolarResearch  In-stitute  is  dedicated  to  perpetuating 

the  legacy  of  polar  exploration  and science  through  research,  education and public outreach activities. The In-stitute  investigates  thesignificance  of the polar regions in a changing world and continues topreserve and make ac-cessible its world-leading collections of polar books, archival manuscripts, art-works  and  artefacts.  Nigel  Cabourn: “As  a  designer  whose  collections  are inspired by history and real vintage

14.14.

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ThE hERITAgE PosT

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INTERvIEW

uwe van Afferden

In  my  first  life,  I  worked  as  an  il-lustrator and graphic designer. Due to lucky circumstances, I became a fur-niture designer and interior decorator. 

In the course of my work, I furnished two  stores  in  the  Lorettostrasse  in Duesseldorf, and I soon had the chance to rent one of the stores there – an offer 

15.15.

  I  just  couldn’t  refuse. This  is how  I became  a  retailer,  a  completely  un-charted  territory  for me at  the  time, and started with using the store as a showroom for my own furniture, and old industrial design. 

Since I hadn’t found anything prop-er to wear in Duesseldorf in the past 20  years,  I  thought  it  might  make sense to include my favourite brands, which I knew from Amsterdam, Paris 

and Antwerpen, in the portfolio of my new store. However, with these labels I soon had to learn how strenuous it can be to swim against the tide. 

For  example,  the  first  jeans  that  I included  were  Levi’s  Vintage.  The price  difference  between  a  regular Levi’s and an original Levi’s from 1901 or  1947  was  hard  to  understand  for most  customers  at  the  time,  just  as they found it hard to understand why 

16.

Japanese  Jeans  are  more  expensive than Chinese.

 The fact that Harris Tweed itches, welted shoes are stiff, horse leather is expensive  and  cravats  do  not  neces-sarily have to have a tip is something that has to be explained to customers again and again. 

In  my  opinion,  this  results  from the  fact  that  they  lack  all  informa-tion regarding products such as these, and thus are insecure. One day, I came across  the  Free  &  Easy  magazine from Japan. As a passionate viewer of this  magazine  (unfortunately  I  can’t read it), I was reminded of my former 

life’s  competences  as  illustrator  and graphic designer, and decided to pub-lish  a magazine  for men,  since  there are but a few in Germany so far.

In one of the German magazines for men,  they write about muscles  that  I have  never  used  in my whole  life.  In another, a young football player tests the new luxury sportscar. 

These negative examples in the Ger-man press for men furthered my idea to make a magazine for men that ap-preciate  real  quality.  For  those  who prefer  authentic  products  over  the fashion  creations.  In  any  way,  “The Heritage Post”  is not a magazine for 

17.

people who are only interested in dis-tinguishing themselves through a big car  or  an  expensive  watch  and  who at the same time have spider webs in their fridge and an outlet mattress in their bed.

The approach of my magazine  is  a more  didactic  one.  It  is  supposed  to further  the  appreciation  of  products; that  the  customer  knows  what  he wants,  that  he  gets  to  know  labels that  he  didn’t  know  before,  and  that production  techniques  and  prices  are understood. Then he can form his own opinion and style.  In this sense,  “The Heritage  Post”  includes  all  areas  of 

life, from clothing to hobbies, interest-ing vehicles,  cooking and  living: new products, but also already past vintage products that become more beautiful, and  develop  their  individuality  with time. Just like us men do... sometimes.

uwe van Afferden

Lorettostrasse 35

40219 Düsseldorf

uwe@van-afferden.com

www.van-afferden.com

18.

Ten years ago, Enzo Fusco, President of FGF Industry Spa and designer of Blauer,  C.P.Company  and  BPD,  had the  intuition to  import the US Blauer brand in Italy: “I have always loved the military style and, as soon as I knew 

that the company wished to go into the European market, I grasped the oppor-tunity. They were looking for someone familiar with the job and were offering a brand which was surely American in style, but had nothing  to do with  the 

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“No RIsk, No gLoRy”

ThE sToRy of

AN ExPEcTED sUccEss

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INTERvIEW

with Enzo Fusco, President and designer of FgF Industry Spa

19.

classic war-style. It seemed to me that a very interesting and free space was joining  the  market.  And  so  it  was.  I had the right product at the right time. This happened ten years ago. I created the first collection with very few items, and transformed the style of American police  into  a  typically  Italian  style which was characterized by soft lines and materials.  I  immediately  focused on the originality of both product and brand,  paying  great  attention  to  the current market trends. 

Introducing  our  women  collection proved to be a winning move: it nowa-days accounts for 45% of our sales. In 

short,  we  have  never  missed  a  trick: we have always offered the right gar-ment just when the market needed it.

  Year  after  year,  we  have  always  updated and reinvented our products, by adding new types every season, from shirts to knitwear. Next winter, at last, we will start selling in U.S.A. and Can-ada as well: the last missing countries to complete a truly global distribution. Outerwear and  leather garments still represent the strengths of the Blauer collection.  We  are  leading  the  sector also because we offer great innovations every year, from materials  to colours and trends”.

Enzo fusco

20.

Ursula  Klein  und  Michael  Herzog started  out  with  bringing  original vintage T-shirts from L.A. to Europe im 2001.

They  loved  browsing  warehouses and extremely enjoyed to restore and 

refine old and special things. On their search for vintage T-shirts, old Levi’s and  used  leather  jackets,  they  dis- covered  up  to  30  year  old  military belts. They were sure that something that  survives  over  decades  in  today’s 

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ThE sUsTAINABLE

LEAThER mANUfAcToRy

wITh ARTIsTIc AmBITIoN

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FEATuRE

DuKES Finest Artisan

21.

throwaway  society  had  to  fascinate many  others  just  like  it  fascinated them. Driven by idealism, the love for craftsmanship  and  vintage  army-clothes and leather, Ursula and Michael started  the  first  Dukes  collection,  consisting of 10 different belts painted by  hand,  in  their  living  room  in  Au-gust 2008. 

It is Ursula’s and Michael’s ambition to create unique items with an artistic character. 

Their  designs  are  inspired  by  pop culture,  music,  Street-Art,  nature  or the  general  spirit  of  life:  a  combina-tion of the afflicted with the beautiful 

and  lovely;  the  sweet with  the  bitter. A  worldwide  network  of  selected partners is looking at markets, in bar-racks and vintage-warehouses specif-ically for leather belts, bags and other paraphernalia. 

In the Dukes workshop, these items are  then  carefully  cleaned,  and  the belts and bags are exclusively sewn by hand. In case the leather is too dried out,  organic  oils  and  lotions  made  in Austria especially for Dukes are used to revive the leather. 

A  highly  motivated  team  consist-ing of six skilled workers realizes the high ambitions of Dukes with a lot of 

22.

sensitivity and love. The imprint tech-nique on leather is not a conventional imprint process: just like an oldtimer, old  leather  has  to  be  handled  with  a lot of care, for example it burns easily when the heat is too intense. 

Dukes  works  with  a  120  year  old bookbinder  hand  press  with  a  very high pressure. 

For  one  belt,  at  least  six  imprint processes are necessary. Former “Au-garten”  porcelain  painters  paint  the Dukes products by hand, the painting process can take up to three hours, for custom made orders even  longer. For special  refinement  processes,  Dukes 

uses selected materials such as exotic leather,  reindeer  leather,  stannic threads or decorative rivets. 

Their suppliers for more exotic ma-terials  are  mainly  traditional  small businesses already existing for many generations.

Due  to  the  big  success  as  well  as the demand for new  leather products with the typical Dukes Finest Artisan character, they started their Heritage Line  in  2010.  Through  the  reducing of the ageing process, they have come up with a refinement procedure which makes  new  leather  appear  almost used. One of Sweden’s oldest tanneries 

23.

supplies  Dukes with  the  best  vegetal leather. In the manufactory, the leath-er is then processed with natural ma-terials and natural essences and with the  use  of  traditional  manual  skills cut,  sewn,  coloured  and  refined  by hand to become unique items.

Highest  priority  for  AW  12:  the  further development of the Dukes bags and  accessory  collection  “Travel  Es-sentials”,  as  well  as  the  introduction of the Dukes jacket collection.

  The  unisex  models  are  custom made items, individually refined, time-less,  functional  and  heavy-duty.  The Dukes  Finest  Artisan  jackets  are 

newly interpreted classics. Exceptional leather variations as well as the Dukes refinement  details make  every  jacket a collector’s item. 

DuKES Finest Artisan

office@dukes-artisan.com

www.dukes-artisan.com

024.

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wINTER 2012

26.

Starting out as a small boutique line in 2000, AG Jeans has since become syn-onymous with great quality, design and state-of-the-art washes. The ultimate goal for any denim brand is to create jeans  with  genuine  vintage  appeal, while maintaining a modern silhouette and authentic washes. The AG brand is dedicated to the continued development of the brand and a commitment to the Made in the USA label. 

AG  is  a  brand  that  is  centered  on recreating vintage denim washes. They pride themselves on offering the most beautiful and  true vintage washes  in impeccable fits. They always look to vin-tage jeans when looking for inspiration. Every jean really does tell a story, and 

no two are alike. There’s always a reason why a particular jean has a certain wear pattern depending on the wearer’s life-style, job, etc, and that is something the brand pays attention to when creating new washes and fits. 

The Fall‘12 collection was inspired by iconic silhouettes updated with the fun-damentals of good design. Both men’s and women’s top and bottom collections will reflect subtle and refined detailing alongside classic styling. Bottoms will showcase authentic washes with a re-laxed feel as well as a wide range of novelty prints and colors. The knit tops will exhibit fine detailing, texture and pop’s  of  color  for women,  and  clean, practical sophistication for men.

Ag Adriano goldschmied Jeans

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hANDcRAfTED &

PERfEcTLy Ag-ED

28.

In 1853 the American Hiram Hutch-inson created  the brand  „A  l‘aigle“  in France. He obtained  the patent  from Charles Goodyear for the vulcanisation of rubber, previously used exclusively for  tyre  manufacturing,  in  order  to make boots and shoes. To this day, this expertise remains concentrated in a sin-gle workshop in France, where, from the initial preparation of the rubber to the final touches, every boot is hand made under  the attentive control  of crafts-men, guaranteeing the waterproofness, durability and comfort of every product. 

In tradition with this experience and know-how, Aigle  launched,  in  the  late eighties, its first clothing and footwear collection. The Aigle range dresses the whole family from head to toe with au-thentic and durable clothing and foot-wear combining style and function; all built around one mission: to live at one with nature. In keeping as ever with its inherent nature, and without losing its 

authenticity, this winter, Aigle is taking us along the trail beaten by the European pioneers  in  their quest  to find a new world.  Iconic  pieces  inspired  by  the brand‘s heritage have been created in high quality materials, which over time develop a beautiful patina. The genuine outdoor piece,  the Sixtyfourty parka, becomes a smart jacket to be worn all season  long. When  the first  frost ap-pears, wear it with a down jacket, which can also be worn on its own. 

The army surplus items have been up-dated and reinterpreted in keeping with the brand‘s DNA. The Fishtail  parka comes in MTD cotton for the beginning of the season, but becomes a down ver-sion for winter. The expedition parka range in down has been expanded and now has a choice of cut and length in different materials. An authentic ward-robe  including a new range of work-boots that crosses the generations and encapsulates the Aigle style.

fRENch RUBBER

cRAfTsmAN sINcE 1853

Aigle

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30.

The Bonneterie d‘Armor was founded in 1938 by Swiss-German businessman Walter Hubacher. 

He started with creating a production of  high  quality  underwear  under  the brand „Armor Lux“. In 1965 the company bought its first dying facility making it thus fully vertical.

 In 1970 the company created its first real  prêt-à-porter  collection,  at  that time  consisting  of  underwear,  striped mariner shirts and mariner jumpers.

 In 1982 Armor Lux started its first brand  shops  and  after  Jean-Guy  Le Floc‘h  and  Michel  Gueguen  took  over in  1993,  a  total  of  35  shops  has  been installed all over France. 

Today  Bonneterie  d‘Armor  includes three  production  facilities  in  France, 

650 employees and more than 70 years of experience in high quality wear.

Armor Lux has always been a com-pany committed to sustainable develop-ment and has thus been deeply involved in the local life of the beautiful region of Brittany.

 Armor Lux supports the 10 principles of  the  United  Nations  Global  Pact. The company takes part in sustainable  development  actions  implemented  by NGO s, is licensed by Max Havelaar for Fairtrade Cotton and is today the big-gest buyer of Fairtrade Cotton Yarns in France.

Discover the real Armor Lux heritage „Made in Brittany“: Duffle Coats, Reefer Jackets, Mariner Sweaters and Breton shirts.

hERITAgE

„mADE IN BRITTANy”

Armor Lux

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32.

In the early 20’s, Southern Califor-nia’s economy was growing at a break-neck pace. Los Angeles-based film studios accounted for nearly one-fifth of California’s annual manufacturing business, and it was there that George Bailey would start his business in 1922: the Bailey Hat Company. He catered directly to the needs of the ‘New West’, outfitting southern California ranchers, businessmen, oil tycoons and, the newest segment of the population, movie stars, with ‘the best hat possible’. George Bailey understood Hollywood’s leading men as arbiters of taste and style, and from its very early days, Bailey of Hollywood was chosen as a regular supplier to the Holly- wood cinema industry – with customers such as Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper or Bing Cosby.

Bailey of Hollywood has earned an exceptional reputation by continually

providing its customers with the same unparalleled quality and craftsmanship as well as sophisticated industry-leading designs. The collections maintain this heritage - a combination of Hollywood and Western-alive by revising classic styles from their archives, as well as creating new contemporary designs, as now designed by the famed Victor Osborne. During the last five years, Bailey of Hollywood hats have been taken in by hat lovers in London’s Shoreditch and Camden, Paris’ Belle- ville and Le Marais and Madrid’s La Latina and Chueca. Bailey’s “traditional- American-flavour-with-a-twist” has proved to be a successful recipe with the new generation of hat wearers that make Bailey of Hollywood as fresh and happening as in the heyday of the cinema mecca: Keeping the genuine American hat tradition alive!

GENUINE AMERICAN

HAT TRADITION

Bailey of Hollywood

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34.

Quality, durability and fitness for purpose have been the guiding principles of the iconic British brand since 1894. Family owned, Barbour is sold in over 40 countries worldwide offering a ward-robe of clothes for the style conscious.

Autumn Winter 12 sees a fusion of country, motorbike and military inspired styles from the archives, interpret-ing the future through Barbour’s rich heritage: Beacon Heritage, Barbour’s premium menswear collection, expands to include shirts and knits alongside Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida’s deeply detailed coats.

The Barbour Steve McQueen® collec-tion evokes a spirit of camaraderie, the toughest riding with mates and chew-ing over the spoils afterwards. High-lights include weathered iconic photos

of Steve McQueen, mud splatter effects and stars and stripes on buttons and linings.

The International range combines functional, form fitting, authentic jack-ets styled on Barbour’s biking history. The Trophy collection is a must for purists while Black Streak features monochromatic styles. In contrast, Barbour Man applies subtle colour to rugged motorcycling cuts.

The Heritage collection updates perennial favourites with a modern approach. Country Vintage is Barbour Country at its’ most directional with soft structured blazers, fishing inspired jackets and Fair Isle and cable knits. Military Services takes navy and olive as base colours in wax, waterproof breathables, quilt and wool fabrics.

RICH HERITAGE

Barbour

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36.

For over 60 years, Blauer has been the leading brand in the U.S. for supplying technical garments to all Law Enforce-ment and to some select sectors of the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy officers or the Commando guarding the White House. Under its motto “Uncompromising Per-formance”, Blauer equips its customers with outerwear protecting them against heat and cold, water and danger. In the U.S., Blauer garments are only sold through specialized channels such as Police Agencies.

In 2001, FGF Industry SpA CEO and Art Director, Enzo Fusco was inspired to create the first Blauer USA Collection for the worldwide fashion market. A licensing agreement was in fact signed for production and global distribution of Blauer clothing which manages to be at the cutting edge and in total align-

ment with the medium-high level, top quality fashion market trend based on the genuine spirit of the brand, while retaining all of the essential, technical and constructive features of the pieces and original fabrics.

Blauer products are aimed at con-sumers who love traditional USA-made brands and technical clothing with real history and a total handle on the genu-ine, original article despite being re-worked and often innovated in its com-fort, styling and wearability, and also brought up to date with the right “fit” for the international fashion market.

The Blauer brand has developed two main kinds of products: Blauer Helmets, under the Blauer HT logo and Blauer Shoes for shoes and accessories. Both are distributed by a specialized network that is ruled by FGF Industry Spa.

UNCOMpROMIsING

pERfORMANCE

Blauer.

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38.

According to legend the origin of B.D. Baggies dates back to 1919, when young Bradford Dexter Bagg discovered a trunk full of his father‘s old clothes, very well made and comfortable. Bradford‘s friends admired his new wardrobe and soon the clothes with that air of being „lived in“ were called B.D. Baggies in honour of the first person to wear them. In 2009 WP Lavori in Corso re-launched the brand worldwide by completely mod-ernizing concept, style and product.

Under the creative direction and de-sign of David Mullen, the B.D. Baggies project returns to the American origins of the brand. Designed in the USA, from 100% pre-laundered cloth with a lived-in look and an unmistakable appeal, the collection contains original styles, in-novative fabrics and designs and a new fit. Women’s FW12 features light weight flannel shirts, brushed and washed for a super soft hand, in melange yarn dye colours, and references back to the

‘blouse’ with feminine details such as a neck tie and elastic smocking in silk and silk blends, but laundered to give it that laid back, casual ease. Silhouettes are generous to exploit the movement and drape of the fabrics. Highlights include the Empire Tunic and beautiful sweat-ers in mohair blends, and a cotton silk shirt dress with a fluid fit. A boiled wool shirt jacket, light yet warm, and a classic denim jacket trimmed with (faux) shearling continue the ‘borrowed from the boys’ theme. Men�s FW12 plays on striped poplin shirts in mélange yarn dye colours, whilst the flannel fabrics focus on check patterns, completed with other more dressy styles. Furthermore, 5-pocket trousers; playful mélange flan-nel blazers; warm wool shirt jackets and a compelling array of mixed-cashmere, wool and alpaca knitwear complement FW12 men�s that stays true to B.D. Baggies� fine America basic heritage but with a more refined twist.

NEW fINE

AMERICAN BAsIC

B. D. Baggies

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40.

Inspired by the industrial universe of the 20th century, Bleu de Chauffe produces work bags reinvented in a con-temporary and urban way, with a clear and sharp design.

The name Bleu de Chauffe derives from the blue jacket worn by French factory workers and locomotive drivers in the late 19th and early 20th century – “mettre son bleu de chauffe” is a popular French expression for getting to work.

These products are simple, practical and stylish. Bleu de Chauffe pride them-selves in the fact that their bags are made 100% in France, following their motto �savoir-faire de proximité�: The Bleu de Chauffe workshop is located in La Vallée de la Saure near the Larzac province (France). The cutting, fabri-cation and stitching are hand-made by qualified local artisans renowned for their skills, experience and expertise.

Social and environmental values are at the centre of the Bleu de Chauffe approach and guide all their actions. Proximity and traceability of all compo-nents help to reduce the Bleu de Chauffe carbon footprint.

The Bleu de Chauffe leathers are or-ganic, natural leathers. In the tanning process, only vegetal tanning agents such as mimosa, chestnut, and acacia are used. The Bleu de Chauffe tannery in Aveyron takes huge precautions in its water treatment: After use, the wa-ter is left to settle, then clarified and released into the river just as pure as it was before being used.

A special Bleu de Chauffe feature is the traceability label: the artisan signs and dates each bag he has made, un-derlining the handcrafted aspect and uniqueness of each of these beautiful products.

100% MADE IN fRANCE

Bleu de Chauffe

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42.

Founded in 2010 in Kolding, Denmark by Ole Madesen, Bleu de Gênes is a Danish denim label taking its inspira-tion from the origin of jeans: the his-tory of jeans started in Genova, Italy, more than 400 years ago. At that time, the harbour workers in Genova used a robust fabric called „Geanes fustian“, made of Arab cotton, for working clothes and sailcloth. The material was dyed blue with indigo, very strong and thus well suited for work pants for these hardworking dockers and sailors. This fabric was exported to other countries, and eventually known as the Blue from Genova, or in French „Bleu de Gênes“ since Genova at that time belonged to France. The English adaptation of the

expression then became „Blue Jeans“.The story behind the blue jeans and Blue de Gênes is the starting point of this collection, a clothing line with an authentic look and high quality materi-als, featuring hand knitted sweaters, and Japanese selvage fabrics. Blue de Gênes jeans are produced in Italy, and just as Blue de Gênes is a family run business, the suppliers are small family run factories.

The quality of these rough jeans is never being compromised. All styles have a strong and unique identity and a design that will last for several years.Claiming that it is indigo that is „flowing in their veins“, Blue de Gênes promise to continue the legacy of Genova.

MANY THINGs pERIsH,

fEW sURVIVE.

Blue de Gênes

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44.

The Authentic New York T-shirt brand BROOKLYN MOTORS’ inspira-tion dates back to the early 1900’s in Brooklyn, New York and the evolution of motorcyclists.

In 1903 the Kings County Wheelman of Brooklyn estab-lished the federation of Ameri-can Motorcyclists, the forerunner for the AMA (American Motorcyclist Association).

In the same year New York inau-gurated laws for proper registra-tion of motorcycles and all motor vehicles. These events, along with the early motorcycle culture inspire Brooklyn Motors to develop products with a sense of nostalgia. Brooklyn’s landmarks, history and deep culture

has helped cultivate Brooklyn Motors.Brooklyn Motors philosophy is simple, “It’s all about the experience within the ride”, cruising at a steady smooth pace and enjoying life.

Riding in the early 1900’s was not about racing and speed, more about relaxing and enjoying the journey.

Brooklyn Motors reflects the sense of riding in comfort, having an edgy sensibility and creating fun along the way. The T-shirts are made of soft 100% slub cotton, finished with a tech-nique to create a worn in vintage feel.

Each unique graphic reflects an icon, moment or object from the past. All products are designed in Brook-lyn, produced in the United States of America and made for you.

AN AUTHENTIC

EXpERIENCE

Brooklyn Motors

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46.

Buttero emerges from the sun beaten hills of Tuscany: the best traditions of Italian shoemaking refined into leather footwear of premium quality.

Named after Tuscany’s old-time cowboys, the Buttero brand is re-nowned around the world for its su-perior leather riding and casual boots. Handmade by craftsmen in Stabbia- Tuscany, the production company honors as of today the Tuscan recipe book with simple, honest, and quality local ingredients.

Buttero uses only the best local vegetable-tanned leathers named Va-chetta, which will age beautifully with usage, like the region’s famous wines.

A special sewing construction binds the upper to the sole unit. The silhouettes of the shoes and boots benefit from the Italian eye for form, proportion and style. The result: a fusion of delicate rawness and timeless elegance.

Founded in 1974 by Mauro Sani, who set out to make the best riding boots in the world, Buttero remains owned and run by the Sani family. Buttero’s soul – and sole – is bound to Tuscany.

The footwear has and always will be made in this enchanted region of Italy. Buttero manufactures shoes with a passion for tradition, creativity and au-thenticity: the Buttero mark is a symbol of quality. Il Profumo della pelle.

REfINED

TUsCAN sHOEMAKING

Buttero

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48.

For more than 50 years, Canada Goose has been producing authentic extreme weather gear born of purpose and function, designed for those who need the confidence that come from quality. Beginning with a modest line of jackets and woolen shirts created in a small warehouse in Toronto, Canada Goose today has grown to be recog-nized internationally as the leading manufacturer of extreme weather out-erwear in the world. Canada Goose has kept the production at home in Canada,

believing that no one can do it better – but the products enjoy a truly global reach. Canada Goose is born of purpose and function - equally at home in the weather research stations of the frigid South Pole as it is on the windswept Iditarod dog sledding trail in Alaska, on movie sets in remote locations around the world, and in the most ex-clusive high-fashion centers.

Wherever people need protection from the elements, top quality and iconic style, you’ll find Canada Goose.

AsK ANYONE WHO

KNOWs™

Canada Goose

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50.

In 1889, Hamilton Carhartt founded the Carhartt company in Detroit, start-ing with four sewing machines and five employees. His first products were workman�s overalls made of denim fab-ric and duck, commonly called canvas, that later became Carhartt�’s trademark fabric. Since the early days the brand was dedicated to a mission of provid-ing “Best In Class” apparel, tailored to meet the highest standards of qual-ity, durability, and comfort. Inventions like triple-stitched seams, the usage of copper rivets at stress points and strengthened buttonholes guaranteed extra durability and a whole other list of extras made Carhartt products the best choice of hard working men.

Today, Carhartt is one of the largest outfitters for tradespeople in the US where it enjoys a legendary reputation as the garment of choice for craftsmen from every field. Carhartt�’s success story in Europe begins in 1994, when

selected products were authorized out-side of the US for the first time under distribution by Work in Progress. The authentic Carhartt workwear products quickly became popular with both fans of traditional US heritage garments and people from to the nascent urban culture and urban sports scene in Europe.

The success was immediate. Euro-pean riders, graffiti writers, and MCs recognised Carhartt�’s straightforward and rugged clothing as an authentic expression of their style. The first product range designed exclusively for Europe followed in 1997. The original workwear cuts were re-interpreted and re-fitted for the demands of an active life in the urban environment true to Carhartt�’s core values: outstanding design combined with exceptional qual-ity, durability and comfort, allowing a sophisticated style and clean aes-thetic due to a modern interpretation of Carhartt‘s legendary workwear legacy.

fROM DETROIT WITH

LOVE

Carhartt Work in Progress

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52.

Launched in 1979, the Chevignon brand was a reinterpretation of the American dream of the fifties. Two years later it took wing with the crea-tion of a distressed leather aviator jacket. In no time this model became a must have in school yards. In 1984 the label won a similar following with the Togs Unlimited Puffer Jacket. This incredible success encouraged the si-multaneous launch of the Kids and then the Girl line in 1989. Since 2007, Chevignon is owned by the French Vivarte group.

Chevignon, the dream brand of all eighties teenagers and the French ar-tistic director Milan Vukmirovic, who belongs to that generation, are join-ing up to launch a new line, Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic, for AW 12. Milan gives a modern and trendy twist to this collection, as the young

successful and hip Artistic Director he is, both as a renowned stylist and pho-tographer.

Made up of eight outfits for men and women, this collection will reinterpret the codes and iconic pieces of the label inspired by the American dream since it began in 1979. Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic is for all those who wore a distressed leather aviator jack-et or a Togs Unlimited puffer jacket in their younger days.

As life has not diminished their deep attachment to this cult label, the idea is to entice them once more with con-temporary models that evoke that fab-ulous past. Their price position will be slightly higher than the traditional Chevignon ranges, because of the special care taken over the choice of materials and the exceptional manufacturing quality.

REINTERpRETED

ICONIC pIECEs

CHEVIGNON HERITAGE by Milan Vukmirovic

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54.

He lived off his land. He took advan-tage of what nature had to offer him. His design was inspired by his expe-riences with the forest, the mountains and the rivers of Wisconsin.

1932 was the year when Clip & Rope was created in John Harvey‘s log cabin deep within the woods of Wisconsin. The unique design of his hiking boots captured the attention of the local resi-dents for whom he produced them in small quantity, until one fall in the late 70‘s when he passed away together with his Clip & Rope boots. In the be-ginning of the 21st century his designs was discovered in the abandoned log

cabin. Clip & Rope was brought back to life and today Harvey‘s story is being told in all corners of the world. For the current collection, Clip & Rope has chosen the wild nature of Wisconsin as an inspiration source.

Harvey died in the fall, a time when the trees begin to change colour, bring-ing a beautiful array of different col-oured foliage.

It is a time where these warm, thick enticing colours dominate one’s vision. The trees‘ dark shadows of orange, brown, green and yellow evoke the notion of the merciless and unimaginable force of nature.

HARVEY‘s fALL

Clip & Rope

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60.

Since the label’s onset, Denham has both worshipped tradition as well as de-stroyed convention. That impulse has led to the combining of historical research with an equal dedication to modern de-sign. For Winter 12, the design team has spread its reach even wider, incorporat-ing more ancient design traditions while also focussing even more keenly on the future of utility garment design. High-lands High Altitude to Shetland Subor-bital: The atmosphere of the Winter 12 collection draws on the colours, fabrics and print inspirations from northern-most reaches of the UK: Scotland, The Shetland Islands, the Orkneys and the Hebrides, injected with a dynamic cur-rent of modernity, influenced partly by Denham’s recent involvement in the development of limited edition flight gear for the S.X.C. (Space Expedition Curacao) suborbital travel program. Colours for the season’s earlier deliver-ies are warm autumnal tones, convert-

ing to a cooler pallet of tarnished grays and icy blues as winter approaches. Fab-rics for men mix deep tradition with bold futurism, including waterproof/breathable camel leather from Danna Tanneries, Fox Brothers wool, two-tone red & navy mackintosh, indigo-dipped vintage linen, re-purposed Italian Navy blankets and glow-in-the-dark, memory and pigment-printed nylons.

The women’s fabric range includes “pure-touch” leathers from Danna Tan– neries, cashmere meltonblends, indigo- dipped vintage linen, silk-mixes and cupra cotton.

Both collections feature a range of grafting techniques whereby nylon sleeves are mixed with melton bodies, heavy-knit collars are grafted to mili-tary twill jackets, tweed and leather are pieced together to compliment the anatomy of a jacket design and stretch rib panels are inserted into designs to increase comfort and mobility.

DIsTANT pAsT,

NEAR fUTURE

Denham the jeanmaker

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62.

Dr. Martens air-cushioned sole, de-signed by German inventor Dr. Klaus Maertens, was engineered to meet the specific need of providing additional support and comfort for a broken foot. Through an ad in the British Shoe & Leather News, Dr. Maertens met British boot makers R Griggs and Co, and in 1960, the first Dr. Martens boot was manufactured, with its trademark yel-low stitch, grooved sole and heel-loop.

It was a boot for workers: comfortable, durable and lightweight in comparison to its competitors at the time. Initially worn by postmen, policemen and everyday workers, the boots were adopted, cus-tomised and used as a tribal emblem by successive subcultures, decade after decade.

Over the past 50 years, the Dr. Martens 1460 boot hasn’t changed. The original boot is still simple, versatile, functional and stylish all at the same time – yet still

associated with individuality, creativity and rebellion.

Dr. Martens continue to make the Made In England collection at the unique Cobb’s Lane factory, which has been producing footwear for the Griggs family since 1901. Within this modest factory walls work a close-knit family of people steeped in traditional shoe-making methods. In amongst the smell of freshly cut leather and the noisy backdrop of pristinely preserved ma-chinery, the unmistakable shape of a Dr. Martens boot begins to form: trav-elling the short length of the factory floor beginning with a small pile of tanned leather hides. The process takes the boot through various highly skilled stages of evolution until its final arrival – laced up and spotless – in a box, ready for a life of being cherished.

Dr. Martens 1460 - an immediately recognisable, British product classic.

Dr. Martens

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a british classic

64.

In the 1890s, a Scottish sailor by the name of Edward Le Roy who sailed the great southern oceans discovered that the torn sails on his ship could be re-cycled into long coats and sou’westers by painting the fabric with a mixture of oils. Subsequently, Le Roy opened a small factory in Sydney Australia, transforming his ideas into excellent wet weather coats. The word spread about the effectiveness of Le Roy’s coats and they were adopted for work on the land with the fantail to protect the horse rider’s saddle and the leg straps to protect from high winds.

For over 110 years now, Driza-Bone has been an important part of Australia’s

rural heritage, the great industry of wool, livestock and grain production. It has clothed the men who built the rail-ways, roads and highways of Australia.

Driza-Bone served the two world wars and travelled with the explorers from the Antarctic to the mountains of the Himalayas, making the brand an intrinsic part of Australian history.Today the company continues to use fabrics, finishes and manufacturing techniques that have instilled the philosophy of simple, comfortable, hard-wearing, outdoor apparel which remains authentic and understated clothing from work to weekend for the city, coast and country.

Driza-Bone

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aUstraliaN hEritaGE

Antarctic Expedition 1929-31 Image Credit: National Library of Australia

66.

Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan is a luxury leather manufactory and stands for traditional craftsmanship, function-ality, art and stable value.

The vintage-collection consists of a passionately restored exclusive range of unique and extremely rare up to 30 years old army leather belts and bags.

The heritage-collection is made of naturally grained heavy duty bull-leather from one of the oldest Swedish tanneries. Dukes developed a process to age the leathers and give them a unique authentic character by using natural ingredients. The collection is inspired by the appeal to combine the afflicted with the beautiful and lovely; sweet and bitter, like the spirit of life.

The products are elaborately adorned: embossed, riveted and painted by the skilled hands of former members of Vienna s Augarten porcelain manufac-tory. Every processing step is done by hand. Each style is a unique and authentic

collector s item with heart and history. The current collection is inspired by the United States Army Air Force (US-AAF), the United States Marine Corps (USMC) and the Imperial Japanese Air-force (IPA) of the 40 s.

Besides the Dukes basics: belts, bags and accessories, the highlights are U.S. pilot jackets B3, B7 and A2, U.S. ma-rine HBT heringbone utility jackets, and Japanese and USMC field caps.

Furthermore, Dukes introduces Dieter Boecksteiner, one of the most enthusiastic conservators of original U.S. uniforms. He is the first address for collectors to restore original US flight jackets.

Thanks to his knowledge of restor-ing and repairing, Dieter Boecksteiner handcrafts and reproduces flight jack-ets with original patterns for Dukes. The jackets are then refined with vin-tage leather, handpainted details and rivets.

Dukes – Finest Vintage Artisan

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PaciFic hErOEs

68.

Innovative Swedish workwear brand Dunderdon was born a decade ago in the Swedish port town of Gothenburg. Founded by carpenter Per-Ivan Hag-berg, the mission at Dunderdon has always been to create clothing for craftsmen who appreciate superior construction and smart design.

Per-Ivan has always been driven by a vision that there would be no filler de-signs in the Dunderdon line, that each product would have a reason of being and would satisfy specific needs. This remains a guiding credo until today. Dunderdon products should represent the highest craftsmanship and innova-tion, while never compromising on fit and style. They respect the past, but don’t rely on it.

For Fall 2012, Dunderdon makes no compromise. The quality standard has

been raised once more to satisfy their customers’ highest expectations while being affordable.

Traditional and very reliable fabrics like heavyweight „Trenkercord“ or „Duvetine moleskin“ from an old German factory are used. Traditional German carpenters have been using these fab-rics since 1804.

Another highlight is the use of „Vantage twill“- this Cordura/cotton fabric, issued from the workwear, feels like cotton, but is six times stronger against abrasion. In addition to these fabric innovations, Dunderdon offers basic work jackets with coated canvas like a J25, parachute poplins with down filling, regular chinos, a wide range of heavy wool knits and super-soft warm duvetine and moleskin plain shirts.

sUPEriOr cONstrUctiON,

sMart DEsiGN.

Dunderdon

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70.

In 1947, Edwin Denim Company was established in Tokyo, by K.K. Tsunemi, the company name playing on the word “denim” with the “m” turned upside down.

At first, Mr. Tsunemi had to import used denim from the U.S. since no denim was manufactured in Japan at the time: worn-out and dirty denim which had to be laundered and mended by hand in order to sell on to his customers. In 1951, domestically manufactured, but poor quality denim was available for the first time in Japan. Mr Tsumeni was driven to create his own denims, with greater sophistication in fits, washes and quality. He crafted the first pair of Japanese made five pocket, signature 16oz Rainbow selvage denim in 1961.

With genuine craftsmanship, qual-ity and innovation at the heart of its identity, Edwin uses exclusive fabrics while employing unique technology,

hand wash processes and continual progression in design and fit, while remaining close to its Japanese roots and gaining inspiration from its histori-cal denim archive dating back to 1947: Fusing heritage purity and manufac-turing experience with modern utility.

AW 12 is inspired by nature, isolation, big space: an outdoor feeling, featur-ing heavy fabrics such as 500 grams jersey, heavy canvas and blanket lined, brushed wool denim. A new rainbow listed selvage Japanese denim of 12 oz was exclusively developed for Edwin. Again on offer: a range of new washes, mostly based on natural worn patterns. For the first time, Edwin has dyed the existing heavy black denim to offer col-oured denim with Olive , Tobacco, and Chocolate as fall colours.

In Europe, Edwin has teamed up with Lavenham to produce timeless pieces, made of a brushed wool denim.

hEritaGE PUritY With

MODErN UtilitY

edwin

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72.

Dedicated to perfecting basics - socks, underwear and tops - for men, women, children and babies alike. The Etiquette Clothiers collection is made of the highest quality materials, combining the traditions of classic craftsmanship and artisanship with modern design.Founded in 2011 by marketing maven Benjamin G. Vergnion, Etiquette Cloth-iers offers luxurious and accessible ba-sics that are fashionable, but always wearable for a timeless sophistication. Vergnion used resources and clever designs rarely seen in this field: 40/1 organic, supima & sea Island cottons, French-made custom three hole mother of pearl buttons, cotton waist bands, inside front slip boxer shorts, or 240 needle sock machines with a steamed & pressed finish. But what would be the „The World‘s Most Proper Basics“ without loving care? After all, basics are the first layer of clothing to touch your skin, the first layer of clothing you

put on. So Etiquette Clothiers also pro-vides products and advices needed for a long lasting relationship between you and your „innerwear“, from soft soap, to socks clips, from darning eggs to pack-ing advice. In celebration of the launch of their first collection, Etiquette Cloth-iers published the book: „The Basics of Etiquette - Vol.1“, from a joyful history of underwear and socks to very practi-cal tips about how to take care of your most cherished basics, the book has it all: „underwear personality index“, „underwear do‘s and don‘ts“, „darning a hole in socks“, „How to fold“, and much more. Collaborations include: The „Koi Clouds“ suitcase line with Globe-Trotter, the „Unscented Basics Laundry Deter-gent“ with The Laundress New York, the „Ultimate Sock Garter“ with J.P Graytok, and the „Positive/Negative Spaces“ Delft-inspired limited edition collection designed by Dutch pop artist Jonny Detiger.

thE WOrlD‘s

MOst PrOPEr basics

etiquette Clothiers

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74.

FARAH was born in 1920 in the US, but it was not until the 1970’s in the UK that it reached the cult status it holds today. The original, slim cut and sharply tailored FARAH slack made from hop-sack canvas became an immediate hit with the youth of Britain. Momentum for FARAH grew and in the 1980’s the brand became a must have label amongst fashion savvy hipsters. Today the FARAH label still holds the heritage, quality and vigour it stood for then.

Drawing on its long history and herit-age, Farah Vintage focuses on functional outdoor garments for AW12, continuing to reference the early days of polar ex-ploration and pre-technology sport and adventure. Traditional rough weather garments meet the sharp silhouettes of 80s British youth culture, softened and loosened for a fresh and modern silhouette. Outerwear continues to be a focus, with typical Farah attention to detail: branded snaps, leather football and new chalky white buttons, lift and

accentuate waxed cottons and warm wool bombers. The 80s return, updated, as a new look slim fit donkey jacket, and a waxed cotton sleeveless gilet with flannel lining. Trousers maintain their edge with the new dropped crotch, slim leg engineered Hunter style, and welcome the return of the Albany and Chester chino.

Colour is rich and mellow, with forest greens and burnt rust tones, soft and warming reds with pops of Satsuma orange and dusty yellow. Navys and classic midnight are joined by rich petrol and flashes of turquoise.

For Farah 1920, workwear influences and attention to detail mark AW 12. Highlights: an �officer Melton� shirt and the �snorkel Parka�. Mélange flecks and dye finishes add a new crafted dimension to the range that is enhanced by simple details such as wooden buttons, leather patches and branded press studs. Colours include forest shades, deep reds, deep blues and natural light shades.

sharP silhOUEttEs

Farah Vintage

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76.

In 1941, Fidelity Sportswear was founded in Boston as a family business, first supplying the US Navy, and then American army navy stores with high quality bomber jackets and pea coats.

The brothers Gerald and Stewart, today the owners of Fidelity, joined the business as teenagers, learning all there is to know about scissors, sew-ing and shipping on the job. Gerald and Stewart are still in the factory, an 85,000 sq ft building in Boston, reviewing production and personally supervising with their staff all aspects of production.

For the last 30 years, Fidelity has made quality coats, sourcing all wool in North America from long-standing suppliers. In the last 10 years, Fidelity

has shipped thousands of coats made in the U.S.A. to high-end stores around the world. Customers include fine shops in Japan and Europe as well as many Army Navy Stores where Fidel-ity pea coats can be had to replace the coats many service men and women have been issued by the US Navy over the years. Fidelity has its association with the US Dept of Defense through Homeland Security. The classic pea coat is GSA certified.

Fidelity by Gerald & Stewart goes beyond the Navy pea coat with a col-lection for men and women. Highlights are the fitted CPO shirts and reworked classic pea coats. The concept: to honour historical military garments with mo- dern styling and outstanding quality.

rEWOrKiNG

thE classic PEa cOat

Fidelity by Gerald & stewart

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78.

Filson

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When the Great Clondike Gold Rush started in 1897, C.C. Filson outfitted the fortune hunters rushing through Seat-tle on their way north. The men were in need of a barrier against temperatures up to -50 °C. At the time, clothing was a matter of survival. Filson had the solu-tion: best handcrafted, tough protective wear, comfortable, functional outdoor clothing. “If a man is going North, he should come to us for his outfit.” was the Filson claim in those days. Since then, Filson products made in Seattle, U.S.A., have earned a worldwide reputation for their quality and durability. Hunt-ers, fishermen, engineers, explorers, mariners, and miners have valued the rugged quality duffle bags, tote bags, sweaters, jackets, and belts. Today, adventurers in the business world can carry their laptop in a reliable Filson

bag throughout their various quests. The attention to detail is apparent eve-rywhere: “Cover”, “Shelter” and “Tin” cloths are made of extremely dense woven cotton, soaked in a special, par-affin-based wax. The leather used by Filson is cut from the strongest parts of the cow skin, and tanned vegetal. Only 100 percent Virgin wool is used, for the fibres come straight from the sheep and have ideal isolating and wa-ter absorbing qualities.

Filson bags are the toughest luggage you’ll ever own: Filson claim to have once even lifted a 230 pounds heavy 1968, 1,500 c,c, Single Port Volkswagen engine in one of their Extra Large Duf-fle bags, six feet in the air. Both bag and engine survived the experiment. These unique, all-natural products are truly made for a lifetime.

MaDE FOr a liFEtiME

80.

Fred Perry was formed in 1952 by the British tennis legend and table tennis champion of the same name. The iconic Laurel Wreath was introduced and still stands as a symbol of excellence, pay-ing homage to the man who rose from humble beginnings to conquer Wim-bledon three times. Fred Perry has influenced and introduced some of the most iconic styles of the last century, which continue to be relevant today. Building on a unique history based on both sports and streetwear, Fred Perry continues to successfully fuse heritage with contemporary product design.

For AW11 Fred Perry returns to its roots, with a collection that references

the styles and fabrics of classic Brit-ish factory and workshop wear of the 1930‘s and 40‘s. The son of a Stockport cotton spinner; Fred Perry’s drive and determination was born from a culture of hard work and perfecting your craft. The collection sees rich wool flannel jackets sit alongside heavy down coats; layered over textured knits and tri-col-our marl sweats.

Taking inspiration from both the factory floor and the working man’s club, the collection features refined but heardwearing pieces alongside tra-ditional tartan and Oxford shirtings, tipped and plain pique jerseys and fine gauge merino knits.

british WOrKWEar

Fred Perry

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82.

Founded in 1863 by John A Frye, The Frye Company is the oldest con-tinuously operated shoe company in the United States. Frye’s footwear has a long and illustrious history: when homesteading sparked adventurous New England families to go West in the mid and late 1800’s, many of those pioneers wore Frye Boots along the journey.

Frye’s Harness Boot is rooted in tra-dition and continues to draw inspiration from the American Cavalry. During a 1938 trip to Washington, DC, John A Frye’s grandson and namesake, a US Navy Admiral, noted his difficulty in finding the Wellington styles he liked so much. As a favor, John agreed to make him a pair. Frye continued to fill these requests for boots through WW II. By mail order, the company supplied thousands of servicemen with Frye Wellingtons, known as Jet Boots. The

boots traveled the world on the feet of US soldiers during the war – even General Patton wore a pair. Today, their classic Harness Boot holds a treasured place in American culture.

In the 1960’s, Frye re-introduced the Campus Boot based on its 1860’s origi-nal. The style featured a bulky toe and chunky heel that came to epitomize the attitude and the styles of the 60’s and 70’s. There was nothing like a “new” Frye Boot on the market, and consum-ers began to demand “Original Frye’s.” The Smithsonian Institute, in their search for items to best represent 1970’s America, chose a pair of Frye Boots, which proudly remain on dis-play today.

The Frye brand remains true to its heritage and vintage American roots with finely crafted, fashionable boots, shoes, and leather goods featuring rich leathers and quality hardware.

FiNElY craFtED

hEritaGE

Frye

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84.

Founded in Tuscany in 1973, the knit-ting factory G.R.P. has developed work-ing methods that combine traditional manufacturing with a modern sense for classics. The design and produc-tion of the G.R.P. knitwear take place in Carmignano in the Tuscan hills of the Medici, a location steeped in history, with a long tradition in the areas of art, agriculture and food production.

The highly qualified G.R.P specialists work with the same passion that a craftsman feels for any of his products, thereby proving his love for his native region. In its knitting factory in the Tuscan Carmignano hills, G.R.P. produces high quality products for its interna-tional customers. For the G.R.P. knit-wear, the world’s best yarns are chosen: Australian Super-Geelong wool, merino and lamb wool, American and Peruvian Pima cotton or linen. The precise work and ambition in stylistic decisions is

also apparent in details such as buttons with four drill holes from four different kinds of wood, which are hand-sewn with a special technique, the “Florence Lily”.

In this Italian region, where the best agricultural products are produced and processed - the so-called slow food -, the traditional vocation to work with selected raw materials by hand, and throughout generations, is part of the G.R.P. company culture. The love for a naturalness that satisfies the body, and for a holiness that enlightens the spirit, is the daily inspiration for the work of G.R.P., in a magic atmosphere that has also inspired the painter Pontormo for his painting “La Visitazione” (1528), which was preserved in the local church of San Michele. For these reasons, the G.R.P. tags are not labelled “100 % Made in Italy”, but… artfully manufactured in Tuscany.

ARTFULLY MANUFACTURED

IN TUSCANY

G.R.P.

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86.

In 1951, Freda and Harold Morris, specialised in selling cotton, leather, plastic-coated chain-mail, industrial gloves and also cotton overalls out of sheer necessity, were approached by the British Ministry of Defence to help dispose of their surplus supplies of World War II duffle coats. It was then that Harold Morris conceived the name Gloverall: a brand was born. When the supply of the ex War Duffle coats was exhausted and the demand was still there, Mr Morris promptly got hold of some cloth and had new Duffle coats made, with leather thongs in place of rope and Horn Toggles: the very first Gloveralls.

Today, Gloverall has become one of the most respected and loved British brands, recognised worldwide as pro-

ducers of the foremost Original Duffle Coat. The Gloverall has gained truly iconic status as a design classic.

AW12 features a classic English Country look that is second nature to the Gloverall Duffle Coat. Shearling fleece lined cord styles meet classic tartans and modern tweeds that also feature in a rich blend of colours from the autumnal landscape.

Inspiration for AW12 comes from in-dustrial and Military design. Utilitarian garments like the donkey jacket and the duffle coat were originally created not to be aesthetically pleasing but out of necessity. The simplicity and adapt-ability of these garments is what has given them an enduring longevity and makes them the design classics that no complete wardrobe should be without.

A DESIGN CLASSIC

Gloverall

R E G D.

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88.

This is the story of Goorin Brothers, the bold hat makers. It all started in 1895 with Cassel Goorin, who sold his first hat off the back of a horse cart in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. These hats embodied individuality, integrity, and grand craftsmanship, the hallmarks of Cassel’s vision. Passion and dedica-tion in the hands of an original thinker formed the Goorin tradition that rede-fined the art of hat making. Old-world craft has evolved into a timeless trade and this devotion has made Goorin Brothers the bold hat making company that it is today. These dynamic hats have allowed individuals, one by one, to tell their stories without ever having to say a word.

Cassel began each of his distinctive hats on custom wooden hat-blocks, each block having its own soul, its own per-sonality. Cassel considered these blocks and patterns his secret recipes and he

kept them safely guarded from his com-petitors’ constant gaze. He measured his clients’ heads, sized up their fea-tures, looked deeply into their interests and personalities and crafted a custom hat to fit their character. Each hat was truly inspired by the individual. Adding the right feather, sewing the right lin-ing, and often changing the block or pattern entirely, he set out to make each hat one of a kind. Cassel rejected the impersonal methods of mass produc-tion, preferring instead to hand deliver each of his hats, often making a custom hatbox to complete the package. Today, Cassel Goorin’s great-grandson takes the lead of the company with an eye to the future and a strong foundation in his heritage. By bringing back Cas-sel’s secret recipes and adding modern twists, Goorin Brothers hats once again stands out as a company representing authenticity and creativity.

BOLD HAT MAKING

Goorin Bros.

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90.

This season, Grenson presents its 289th collection since the company be-gan in 1866. Operating from the original Victorian factory in Northamptonshire, England, Grenson is a Goodyear Welted shoemaker with many generations of experience.

The mainline collection is called G1 and is handmade in the factory using the ultimate in luxury materials and handmade techniques, to produce their

prototype collection in Limited Edition form.

The diffusion line is called G2 and is the replica collection of similar styles made from the original G1 prototypes but in more affordable materials.

The Grenson factory also works on a limited number of collaborations with like-minded retailers, brands and other designers to produce unique dual brand-ed shoes, in small quantities.

HERITAGE IS BACK

Grenson

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94.

NYC, 1979: Yves Chareton founded the Hartford collection, following his vision to recreate 40’s and 50’s vintage shirts he had found at Parisian Porte de Clignancourt flea markets in the late 60’s - ubiquitous button-downs in faded plaids or bright oxford, westerns in raw denim and work shirts in cham-bray. Thanks to a manufacturer who believed in his vision, Yves was able to launch a casual and cool line of vintage-inspired shirts. Hartford was an instant success, and fans such as Bruce Spring-steen ordered dozens of shirts to wear in concert. Hartford became synonymous with quality fabrics, rich colours, and above all, with authenticity. Yves had an eye for refined prints, and for mixing fabrics in perfect harmony.

Within a few years, the Hartford col-lection became a complete menswear line, inspired by classics: Military coats cut from Savile Row tailors, fatigue pants borrowed from the US Navy, an

old school shirt in faded oxford stripe, a Fair Isle sweater freshly recreated - all examples of classic styles that Hartford reinvented to become contemporary, stylish but never trendy. In 2000, Yves launched a vintage-inspired beachwear collection, a womens line, and a children’s collection.

Today, Hartford is available in 11 Hartford boutiques in France as well as in the best department stores and in hundreds of high-end, contemporary shops worldwide. The AW 12 collection is inspired by two themes: 1.Military Surplus: working classics such as the peacoat and the fishtail parka, oversized shirts and chinos, all made from robust materials and featuring authentic de-tails; and Preppy Heritage: Ivy League style from the 60s and recreated for the new millenium. Favorites such as flannel, tweed, oxford and cashmere will have new modern silhouettes and new pro-portions.

STYLISH

BUT NEVER TRENDY

Hartford

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96.

From the creation of the first ski boots at the end of the 1940s to HESCHUNG’s consecration, when it became the official supplier to the French skiing team at the Grenoble Winter Olympics in 1968 (8 gold med-als), an intimate relationship with the mountains has grown, which far ex-ceeds the realm of sports alone and shows a true love of nature.

The consumer is cultivated, perceiv-ing the consistency and sincerity of a policy based on the unique exper-tise that the brand has inherited from its very beginnings: genuine reverse welt and Goodyear stitching. These techniques ensure that the Heschung footwear is perfectly watertight and extremely hard-wearing, something it would be inappropriate to sacrifice

to the mere fads of fashion. In phase with the legitimate aspirations of its contemporaries, HESCHUNG positions itself as a purveyor of footwear that expresses a sensibility for the sober, deluxe and elegant product.

To reconcile the aesthetics of former times and current preoccupations, the brand relies on its passion for noble materials, architecture, design and fashion. Very selectively, HESCHUNG picks up on and filters current trends in order to interpret them according to the brand’s values of authenticity.

HESCHUNG footwear comes into being through this subtle compromise, which allies tradition and modernity, whilst demonstrating true respect for the environment. In this, it is very much footwear for the modern world.

FOOTWEAR

FOR THE MODERN WORLD

Heschung

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98.

Born in Colorado in 1947 to supply tech-nical garments to professional climbers and the Alpine Rescue Team, Holubar built a reputation over the years with the general public as one of the most impor-tant North-Americanclothing brands for all outdoor activities and every-day city use. Holubar gained recognition thanks to a number of visionary technical and design innovations, inspiring many of the other important outdoor cloth-ing brands in the United States, most notably through the use of extra light nylon with down filling in the early ‘50s or the adoption of 60/40 fabric, a blend of fine Egyptian cotton and nylon. The invention and evolution of the famous “Mountain parka”, one of the most popu-lar garments ever in North America, has also to be ascribed to Holubar. Holubar continues to revive the historic styles from its archive of patterns and images, taken from old mail-order catalogs and Backpacker magazine ads. Along with

these styles, deriving strictly from the archive, among which the Ridgemark 60/40 parka and the Sven waxed cotton parka should be mentioned, Holubar will present more jackets that are an evolution of classic Holubar styles but developed with an eye to urban uses and modern functionality: the Royal series of lighter-weight jackets with Holufill insulation that follow the suc-cess of the Royalight jacket launched for Winter 2011 completing the range with a RoyaLONG, a RoyalSHORTY and a RoyalVEST. „Function + Fashion“ was in fact the motto of Holubar when the brand decided to expand from the tech-nical field to the recreational market, as stated in an old press advertisment of the early 70s Essential part of the col-lection are the continuing styles like the 60/40 Parka and the Mountain Parka, the Winter version of the jacket worn by Robert De Niro in Michael Cimino’s “Deer Hunter”.

PIONEERS OF AMERICAN

OUTDOOR CLOTHING

Holubar

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102.

For nearly 50 years John Partridge has thought differently about English Country Clothing. Practical needs, al-ways fashionable, led by design.

John Partridge, today as always, con-tinue to make clothing which is practi-cal, quirky and English.

They still use long staple, two-ply Egyptian cotton to make their waxed jackets and coats. The fabric produces a uniquely individual look. This technical part of the collection is very accom-plished and the wax jackets fit together

well with advanced fabrics designed into the DNA of their styling.

Highlights for Autumn/Winter 2012 are John Partridge’s traditional wax, tweed and quilt fabrics but also in ex-citing new materials, as well as new definitions of the classic lines.

Feted for innovative use of tradition-al materials and craftsmanship in the 1960’s, the brand continues to develop iconic garments such and is an estab-lished brand in the British heritage clothing scene.

ENGLISH CLOTHING

John Partridge

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104.

In 1938 two entrepreneurs came to-gether to start a Californian distribu-tion company of the finest British and American motorcycles and motorcy-cle clothing, delivering them to a new wanderlust-starved American teenager. That company would be called Johnson Motors. Through racing their motor-cycles in the barren deserts of Death Valley and the dry lakes of El Mirage, they pitted themselves against nature in the true American tradition of “All or nothing, death or glory” in jeans, a t-shirt and leather jacket. Johnson Mo-tors clothing is built on that same ethos, that same enduring spirit of those pio-neers of utility clothing.

Johnson Motors is a small company, in the cottage-industry style, untouched by

corporate decision making. They simply make what they love, for the discerning wearer. Using only the finest American yarns and denim, they struggle above all else to keep age-old traditions of excel-lence alive in the heart of downtown Los Angeles, having truly earned the right to bear the mark “Made in USA”.

This season Johnson Motors is proud to debut their long-awaited denim line, offering a range of traditional and slim fit selvedge jeans.

They make blue jeans, pure and simple, in which you will have to earn the holes and marks that will tell your story and capture your memories.

Johnson Motors Jeans. Hard wearing, tough and durable… Made the way you remember them.

HANDCRAFTED

IN LOS ANGELES

Johnson Motors, Inc.

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106.

Kings Of Indigo’ or just K.O.I, was launched for SS ’12 and now introduces its AW collection. Inspiration for the brand is original American denim wear, the authentic jeans. K.O.I takes all-time favorite styles in both wash and fit, mixes them with a Japanese eye for detail and then develops them according to modern ways of green production: K.O.I creates New Classics.The look might be timeless, the pro-duction process is very 2012. Focusing on sustainable denim K.O.I produces ‘every garment with a conscience’ by launching a Triple-R concept: Recycle-Repair-Reuse. Using recycled material simply saves resources and the fact that K.O.I offers a repair kit for your

damaged jeans helps you enjoy them longer. Then when you’re ready for a fresh pair, you can leave your oldies and the Kings will reuse them for one of their new collections.

In this new fall collection K.O.I has developed a bunch of new denim fabrics such as stretch denim with recycled cotton in the weft and recycled black denim in several washes.

A fresh look, created with a clean production process.

The denim offer is completed with a small selection of vegetable tanned leather belts, iPhone covers and good old fashioned key rings in natural and indigo, washed and unwashed, just like the jeans.

NEW CLASSICS

K.O.I - Kings of Indigo

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108.

The K-Way® brand was created in Paris in 1965. On a rainy day, clothes re-tailer Léon-Claude Duhamel observed as people rushed by in soaking wet clothes, with uncomfortable umbrellas in their hands. And he had an insight: creating a waterproof object that could be carried all times, but which was neither an um-brella nor a raincoat. Therefore a revo-lutionary jacket was born: lightweight, comfortable and completely waterproof, that could be folded in a small hip bag. This product was soon launched on the market and proved to be successful from the beginning: in the first year, 250,000 pieces were sold.

In the 1970s, numerous partnerships between K-Way® and various ski teams

took place. In 1990 the brand was pur-chased by Superga and in 1993 it was transferred to So.PA.F. merchant bank. In 1999, it was acquired by Milan-based Multimoda Network.

In February 2004 K-Way® was in-cluded in the BasicNet Group�s brand portfolio. K-Way® has reached such a popularity that today it can be defined as one of the few very well-known and legally recognised brands, included as an entry in the Italian dictionary.

The K-Way® key words are coloured, technological, functional, classic, con-temporary. K-Way® co-brandings in-clude: Marc Jacobs, Kristina Ti, Walt Disney, Cerutti, Corso Como, Elio Fiorucci, Limoland.

LET IT RAIN!

K-Way

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110.

In the German city of Pforzheim, on the edge of the beautiful Black Forest, the LACO watch manufactory is situ-ated, looking back on a history of nearly 90 years. In these years, the company has always met the demands of the continuous changes it was con-fronted with. New designs and models are constantly developed in the LACO watch manufactory, such as the Ma-rine_44 crème with the mechanical manual winding UNITAS 6497 and a casing width of 44 mm. Typical trait of these Marine watches: the subsidiary second. All classic watches to be found in the LACO collection are handmade by master watchmakers employing highest precision, with quality and a clear design always in the focus of the

manufacturing process. The world of watches can also not be imagined with-out the unmistakable design of the avi-ator watches, originated in the 1940s. LACO aviator watches with the A and B types of construction clock faces where and still are reliable partners. In the construction of the original LACO aviator watches, special techniques are employed that are exclusive to LACO. Therefore, the current aviator watch collection still looks exactly like the original from the 1940s.

Meeting the technical challenges and those of the increasingly evolving market is not only self-evident for the LACO team – they are excited and glad to be able to lead LACO into the future of watch manufacturing.

ORIGINAL

GERMAN WATCHMAKING

LACO

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112.

Exceptional Levi’s® product using the best tools and technology available today.

FOR US,

AND PEOPLE WE KNOW.

Levi’s® Made & Crafted™

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114.

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Levi’s® Vintage Clothing is an authentic, comprehensive assortment dedicated to capture the spirit of American workwear. Each garment faithfully reproduces the fit, fabrics

and characteristics of the period. The history of Levi’s® is kept alive through Levi’s® Vintage Clothing by staying true to those garments kept in the Levi’s® archive dating back to the 1880’s.

Levi’s® Vintage Clothing

it ALL StARtED hERE.

116.

The Ludwig Reiter shoe manufac-tory was founded in Vienna in 1885 as a shoemaker’s workshop and is still run by the family, today in its fourth gen-eration. Worldwide, Ludwig Reiter is one of the few remaining shoe manu-factories to produce according to the traditional Goodyear welting method. The traditional welted shoes are made by hand.

Today Ludwig Reiter is also well-known for its high quality sport and ladies shoes as well as accessories, com-

bining the experience and tradition of fine craftsmanship with contemporary requirements and style, resulting in the company’s vision statement “The Future of Tradition”.

With designs such as the “Trainer”, the “Bowling” or the most prized crea-tion, the legendary “Maronibrater”, Ludwig Reiter became an international fashion pioneer that has initialized cooperations with designers such as Helmut Lang, Wolfgang Joop, Paul Smith and Werner Baldessarini.

thE FUtURE OF

tRADitiON

Ludwig Reiter

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118.

Modern, independent and resolutely Scottish, Lyle & Scott is a brand whose iconic Eagle acts as a symbol for both quality and exclusivity. Established in 1874, Lyle & Scott’s rich history and long-term experience come together with a contemporary aesthetic to offer originality, authenticity and a refusal to compromise.

The Vintage Collection for AW 12 continues with the long established counter-culture spirit of Lyle & Scott with a diverse mixture of the bold youthful, Vintage style mixed with a

bohemian free-willed look with added elements of ‘Into the Wild’ outdoor styling. The range has an eclectic, yet stylish and directional feel to it with surplus inspired pieces, twisted classics such as flecked chambrays, chainstitch stripe jerseys and cable/jacquard knit mixes.

Driven by a single-minded sense of purpose and integrity and supported by the highest levels of expertise, quality and know-how, Lyle & Scott continues to be a wardrobe stable for those who strive for a bold confident approach.

MODERN,

iNDEPENDENt AND

RESOLUtELY SCOttiSh

Lyle & Scott

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122.

With a history of more than 300 years, Meindl produces mens and womens leatherwear collections and outdoor shoes in Kirchanschöring, a small borough in the Bavarian province of Traunstein. The Meindl signature piec-es are the traditional Bavarian short leather pants and rough jackets made of leather and lambskin, first tailored by Lukas Meindl in 1935.

Elaborately manufactured and art-fully embroidered, the high-quality Meindl leather pants and garments are made of the best buckskin and with perfected craftsmanship, providing the best possible wearing comfort. The Meindl style is inspired by the life in

the Alps, and Meindl products convey this characteristic lifestyle throughout the world.

The unrestricted Meindl strive for best quality materials and timeless design, lasting for over three centuries now, continues to pay off: today, nearly 500 workers are producing Meindl outdoor boots and leatherwear, always respecting the Meindl tradition of craftsmanship and dedication to quality and service. Notwithstanding the tradi-tional attitude, increasing attention is paid to environmental aspects such as the recyclability of the manufactured materials. Meindl: a true Bavarian orig-inal keeping up with the times.

thE BAvARiAN

ORigiNAL

Meindl

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126.

Keswick, Lake District National Park, England, 1903. Cycle camper, rock climb-er and true eccentric Millican Dalton trades life as a London insurance clerk for wild adventures in the great out-doors.

Way ahead of his time, this self-styled “Professor of Adventure” lived a life of simplicity and self-sufficiency, in a cave. Millican salvaged old Jaeger blankets, moleskin fabrics, cords, denim, canvas and leather to make his own clothes, rucksacks, tents and sleeping bags. A local legend was born.

Keswick, Lake District National Park, England, 2008. Inspired by Millican Dalton’s values, Millican the company creates its first travel and outdoor bag collection. Millican’s tight 2012 collec-

tion is based on proven utility shapes, with modern functionality for the con-temporary traveller and largely made from sustainable materials - organic canvas, recycled polyester, vegetable tanned leather and Lakeland wool. James the Duffle, Bob the Holdall and a new range of Felt Wool accessories join the main collection of rucksacks, shoulder bags and overnighters.

For AW12, Millican has partnered with British clothing brand Universal Works to create a new collaborative col-lection of travel bags. Sharing Millican’s passion for clean lines, simple details and functionality, Universal Works brings their speciality of well-cut and craftsman-made menswear to Millican’s organic canvas bags.

SOLviNg CARRY NEEDS

Millican

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128.

It has been just over 10 years since n.d.c. made by hand was created by Enrique Corbi & Arnaud Zannier- two friends passionate about shoes. The brand name n.d.c. – nom de code/code name – reflects their conviction that the strength of the brand is the product itself, where simplicity, quality, origi-nality and constructional know-how are king. Not interested in following the ever-changing whims of fashion, they believe in style, in class, in strong per-sonality, in understated grace, in subtle humour, in tradition and evolution, in fusion and harmony, but above all, in individuality. In 2001, after working for over 10 years in the shoe business, they felt that it was time to break free of the corporate machine and create their own story. They had seen a gap in the market for the kind of shoes that they wanted to wear. Without restrictions to creativity or budget, they brought the

best leathers from Tuscany to the finest artisans in Europe and created shoes for people like them who are in pursuit of authenticity and understated individ-ualism. Since then they have been devel-oping their repertoire of unique styles with comfortable lasts, interesting constructions and finishing techniques that include top-secret concoctions of natural waxes and oils.

n.d.c. is now available in over 350 of the world’s finest boutiques, including their own flagship stores in Brussels and Paris. To Enrique and Arnaud, a good shoe is a work of art. The leather, the craftsmanship… good shoes are made by good people who are passion-ate about what they do despite profit.They are still independent in controlling their business and creating their product from a to z which makes sense for a brand who’s priority and ultimate objective is the product itself.

WORKS OF ARt

n.d.c. made by hand

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130.

Natural Selection Denim was founded in 2009 with the aim to create a British denim brand, dedicated to delivering authentic workmanship of the highest standard. Natural Selection Denim fo-cuses on the evolution process of a raw jean as it ages, using the finest selvedge and non-selvedge denim.

Natural Selection Denim’s AW12 col-lection reflects on the brand’s origins

with a focus on the evolution of its denim, alongside a capsule collection of upper apparel. A new offering of inventive washes; The Chowa, Otaku & Garage, to name a few, available in the classic fits: the ‘Smith Straight’ & ‘Smith Narrow’.

AW12 will see Natural Selection Denim embark upon its first product collaboration, with American heritage brand Filson.

thE EvOLUtiON

PROCESS

Natural Selection Denim

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132.

Nigel Cabourn, a true outerwear specialist, is driven by a long standing passion for vintage clothing, fabric and details. His vintage archive of over 4,000 pieces is his inspiration: each collection has a real story, and a sense of history underpinned by the highest level of quality.

On January 18th 1912, Captain Robert Falcon Scott and four accompanying explorers reached the South Pole, be-coming the first British explorers to achieve this, enduring along the way -40°c temperatures and crippling winds. The Nigel Cabourn Authentic Winter 2012 Collection, produced in the United Kingdom with British fabrics where possible, is inspired by this year‘s

100th Anniversary of this historic event. Although all five explorers perished due to extreme weather conditions, their courage and persistence was inspiration to dedicate the collection of Nigel Cabourn Authentic Winter 2012 clothing to this incredible historic achievement.

LIMITED EDITION 2: This is Nigel Cabourns Authentic Limited Edition 2 which follows the success of Limited Edition 1, The Ascent Of Cabourn in 2003. The collection consists of 12 pieces produced in about 100 pieces each on the outerwear and 300 pieces on the accessories.

Each garment has its individual se-quenced number to show the authenticity of the Limited Edition collection.

SCOtt‘S

LASt EXPEDitiON

Nigel Cabourn

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NIGEL CABOURN LOGO

136.

Nudie Jeans co

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The Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans, started in 2001, is not inter-ested in short-term trends. Moreover, they are continuously striving for the evolvement of their design and pro-duction, and express their passion for denim. The Nudie Jeans Dry Selvage is a special concept with the best selvage denim from Japan, Italy and Turkey, selected high quality denim blended with cashmere, hemp and organic cotton. This line is the core and heart of the Nudie Jeans brand, made for all lovers of Nudie Jeans and dry denims, for all those impassioned fans who understand and embrace the passion for denim. As a distinctive feature, all dry selvage jeans have the selvage edge coin pockets and silver trims.

THE BACKBONE CONCEPT dove-tails perfectly with Nudie Jeans’ dry denims in terms of simplicity and sus-tainability. Quite simply, this is every-day clothing that fits perfectly with dry or worn jeans. For spring 2012 deliv-

eries, all Backbone garments will be made from 100% Fairtrade certified or-ganic cotton. Further on, Nudie Jeans’ Backbone concept is a part of a textile pilot project initiated by Fairtrade In-ternational. This means that every step from the organic cotton growing and harvesting, through ginning, spinning, knitting, cutting and sewing to the final manufactured product is part of this project which aims to investigate how Fairtrade elements can be added for textile workers and not only for cotton farmers.

This project has been made possible by a unique co-operation between Fair-trade, Fair Wear Foundation, Arm-strong Knitting Mills and Nudie Jeans.

The goal is to increase social com-pliance through third party verification not only on farming level but also along the full chain of production. The pro-ject will be evaluated in 2012 to see if Fairtrade standards for textiles can be developed.

thE PASSiON

FOR DENiM

138.

For more than a decade now, deep in the heart of Mercia, England, ONETrue-Saxon have been producing casual cloth-ing, footwear and general paraphernalia for discerning gents everywhere. Ob-sessed with style as opposed to fashion, the brand has become synonymous with quality, integrity, honesty and a good dose of British humour. Pride in their craft is central, and sticking strictly to the principles of “Modern Manners and Casual Etiquette” has and will always be key. AW12 is a celebration of growing up in Mercia: casual apparel and footwear with all the detailing you’d expect to find in a traditional tailored product.This season, inspiration is drawn from fish-ing the canals, rivers and lakes of Mer-cia, places like The Anchor, The Trent and Seeswood Pool, places where you were as likely to catch a cold as you were to land a Bream worth bragging about. Places where your kit needs to do the job. Therefore, ONETrueSaxon

once again enlisted the services of the finest craftsmen of Middle England to realise their MADE in Gt.BRITAIN outerwear. Jacketing that will service outdoor manoeuvres as well as being smart enough for the evening celebra-tion of “who caught nowt again?!” Waxed cottons feature heavily as well as the introduction of Thorn Proof Tweeds this season. The main range is again “Casual to the Core”. A strong denim offering is complimented by shirting and over-shirting, fisherman knits and footwear both formal and casual. They have also added to their arsenal by introducing an accessories range, luggage, headwear and small leather goods, all the stuff the ‘modernist sartorial gent’ requires for the rigours of the modern world. You need to make choices in life: are you someone who’s interested in fashion or someone who’s interested in clothing. The chaps at ONETrueSaxon, they tread their own path. Tight lines all the way.

CASUAL TO THE CORE

OneTrueSaxon

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142.

AW 12 encapsulates Pantherella’s expertise, quality and heritage with stylish classic designs and exquisite yarns. City Business is not only part of Pantherella’s DNA but it’s an essential look for the AW12, focusing on yarns and textures, designing styles which perfectly compliment the well heeled city gent including Birdseye, Pip, Tartan and Stripes in the finest Merino wool yarns in Graphite, Sepia, Greengage, Kiwi, Damsons and of course traditional blacks. This season, the City Business collection includes the distinguished Vintage range, embracing British clas-sic shapes and patterns in Old navy, Bold charcoal, strong dark greys mixed with light camels, rich taupe’s and deep conk-er, whilst the Retro Heritage designs have taken the ‘vintage era’ and evolved them into a modern iconic collection.

For AW12, Pantherella has taken urban modern shapes such as checks, dia-monds, stripes and florals and combining

a contemporary retro ‘Shoreditch’ edge in Buttercup, Heather, Purple, Sweet Pea and Petrol Blues. City Business week-ender offers Marl Boot socks, bright’s and autumnal colours, complimentary stripes and stitchy texture.

For the ultimate weekend luxury, the Pantherella Cotton Cashmere in Ter-racotta, Navy, Khaki, Petrols and light greys offers the hardest working busi-ness feet a well deserved treat. Along with the leisure weight cashmere in Birdseye and Fairisle styles

Creating designs for our distinguished customers, the Pantherella Mature Prep collection highlights the key looks of the season but moulds them into the right balance of design and function for the Pantherella customer. The Mature Prep collections showcases classically strong block colours of Royal Red, Sweet Pea, Deep Turquoise, Charcoal, Navy and Black and argyles of Dark Olive Mix, Dark Camel and Navy.

NEW GENT REVIVAL

Pantherella

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144.

Penfield was established in 1975 in Massachusetts and has built a reputation for making the highest quality down-filled jackets and outerwear.

Penfield garments are designed to stand up to the demands of the New England climate, yet are equally at home sheltering you from the storm, anywhere wind blows or rain falls!

These garments are made by people who know and love the outdoors, and

Penfield is always committed to bring-ing you the best of fashion, function, practicality and durability in every design they manufacture.

Penfield works constantly to improve and develop new fabric and garment innovations to keep you warm and comfortable in the most varied and extreme conditions.

Whatever the situation calls for, there is a perfect Penfield for every need.

FOR LIFE IN THE OPEN.

Penfield

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146.

Preventi is a community of “great people with better ideas”. Inspired by contemporary craftsmanship, the Span-ish Preventi brand produces a mix of everyday accessories designed for gen-uine people who love fashion and to play with it.

Preventi is a tribute to the cult fash-ion. Nearly all of the models are natu-ral colour leather shoes, “tinto in capo” with a natural peened leather sole, machine washed, naturally dried and hand finished, with Goodyear stitching. Sneakers and boots complete the line, giving this timeless brand a more ur-ban and casual feel and touch. In 2009, Preventi launched “The Global Nomads Project”, a trip around cities throughout the world, meeting people who share Preventi’s way of working, travelling and dreaming, and a challenge: them personally and letting them choose

their favourite pair from the collection. Felice Limosani (Digital Storyteller and creative director of Luisaviaroma), Peter Thonet (From the legendary Ger-man manufacturer Thonet furniture), Simon Jacomet (CEO of Zai Skis) or Mark Tungate (Freelance journalist) were the first to choose their favorite model, which since then bears their names printed on the sole. With a slow marketing and recommendation of its own Global Nomads, Preventi is present since then in boutiques like Luisaviar-oma, Isetan Japan or Le Marché aux Puces in Madrid.

After ten years of existence, Preventi launched the first collection The Donna in 2011: Inspired by, designed for her.

With the slogan “In her shoes”, models like Elisabeth, Macbeth, Sofy, Celine, Taylor and Barbour have been designed for cosmopolite women all over the globe.

FOR GLOBAL NOMADS

Preventi

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148.

Valverde del Camino in Andalusia, Spain has been an old silver mining district for centuries already, its name derived from its green fields and its proximity to the „Silver Street“. Since the 19th century, the “banquilleros” of Valverde traditionally produce robust, resistant boots and shoes for hard work in the fields, the mountains or in the silver mine. In 1989, the company Valverdeña del Calzado S.L. created the Primeboots brand in Valverde. The Primeboots are still hand-crafted in the traditional Valverde style in two stages:

first, the shaft, insole and leather welt are stitched together by the Goodyear seam. The second step in the production: welt and outsole are stitched together using the welt seam. This production process unites breathability and adap-tation in a perfect fit.

Mens and womens Primeboots come in BikerUrban, Engineer, Western, Ranch Work, and Mountain-Adventure lines. They all share the high-quality hand made manufacturing and the classic, timeless look that is typical for Primeboots.

VALVERDE CLASSICS

Primeboots

K R O N E e s t . 1 9 8 4

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150.

Prps, short for ‘Purpose’, was cre-ated in 2003 by Founder and Creative Director, Donwan Harrell, with the philosophy that au thenticity is the first priority. Each item in the collection is conceived with a specific purpose and function in mind.

The distressing and ageing process and signs of a well-used jean simply validates the richness and quality of that particular garment. ‘Breaking in’ a jean does not represent deterioration, but the contrary – it is what we strive to attain. It is the visual result we jean enthusiasts so admire – a jean which

looks ‘bruised but never broken’. Prps uses African cotton combined with expert Japanese construction to create what we believe to be the finest product available.

In 2011, Prps launched ‘Noir’, an ex-clusive collection of Japanese, often selvedge, denim washed with varying degrees of black dye and resin. This Noir technique is used to create a darker, more contemporary aesthetic and is available in 5 shades, from over-dyed pure black to the faintest hint of black worked into a vintage blue jean selvedge jean.

BRUISED

BUT NEVER BROKEN

Prps Japan

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152.

Prps Goods & Co. is designed and crafted with unparalleled quality. While each garment is inspired by authentic vintage Americana, each collection will offer a complete brand experience that speaks to the modern man’s desire for functional, purposeful and innovative clothing. Accessible and affordable, Goods & Co. captures the essence of Prps without sacrificing the ethos of the brand. In keeping with the com-pany’s history, each seasonal offering will be built around a strong foundation

of denim and paired with meticulously assembled separates making Prps Goods & Co. one of the most sought after brands in the market.

Constructed from exquisite Japanese pieced goods and finished with elabo-rate detailing, as all Prps garments are, Goods & Co. remains true to the brand’s legacy.

The collection encompasses an early American outdoor lifestyle and is an aesthetic reflection of the personality behind the brand.

TREAT EM ROUGH

Prps Goods & Co.

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156.

Born in 1908 on a farm in South Australia, Reginald Murray Williams crossed the Australian central western deserts while working as a camel boy for a missionary. During their trips, he learned valuable bush lore and survival skills from the aboriginal people and stockman skills from the stockmen of the desert fringe cattle stations. But it was meeting an itinerant saddler named Dollar Mick, who taught him the skills in leather working and craft-ing, that marked the true beginning of young R.M. Williams’ life’s work. He set up his first small shoe factory in 1932, and over the following decades, the company grew rapidly, diversifying, apart from boots, into bush saddlery, equipment, moleskins, jeans and bush shirts: R.M. Williams became the bush

outfitter, supplying everything essential to Australian life.

The first R.M. Williams stores opened in 1978. Today, the oil-impregnated rid-ing, work and elastic boots are the back-bone of the R.M. Williams business. For theirboots, only the best leathers are used, such as cowhide, “willow” (chrome tanned oxhide), yearling, and suede leather, just to name a few.

Undergoing 80 handheld processes, each R.M. Williams boot is comfortable, supple, and easily moulds to the foot. These high-quality, strong and durable boots feature welt soles with 21 defined features, and vegetable-tanned leather insoles. The uppers of the R.M. Williams boots are made from only one piece of leather, thereby producing the typical clean and classic lines.

AUSTRALIAN BOOTS

SINCE 1932

R.M. Williams

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160.

Redux was launched by Italian de-signer Dario Marangon, and is based on his passion for denim and the workwear tradition. The idea of Redux arose from the need to perpetuate the unique char-acteristics of jeans from the material to the production. The word Redux means to restore or to return. Redux realizes this “esprit de finesse” (intuition) and a unique aesthetic vision: the love for the basic and the simplicity of creating a new and fresh philosophy.

Redux have a special interest in den-im, the only material in the world that

moulds to the shape of your body with use and the passage of time. In the pro-duction, Redux is guided by an ethic of respect for nature. Quality, simplicity and continuity lie at the heart of these beautiful jeans. The styles are inspired by the tradition of workwear and the classic five pockets; inspiration is also drawn from their archive of original vintage clothing.

Redux are jeans in limited produc-tion, and only for men: genuine quality products which will stand the test of time.

ESPRIT DE FINESSE

REDUX

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162.

Red Wing’s Heritage Work Collection is originally made to withstand the rigors of hard work and the brutality of harsh weather; this footwear earned its name on the farms and in the prairies of America’s heartland.

Committed to the basic principles of style, quality, craftsmanship and comfort, Red Wing Shoes continues to stay true to the original idea of Charles Beckman who established the brand in 1905. As a work-boot brand, it prospered for over a century and today is sold in over 100 countries around the globe.

The Red Wing product lines range from functional boots that have been the staple of skilled workers for the past century, to the Heritage Collection with

footwear based on classic American styles. Red Wing Shoe Company – still located in Red Wing, Minnesota – offers a unique blend of quality, tradition and American style. Red Wing’s leather is crafted in their 140 years old tannery, located 1 mile down the road from the factory in Red Wing Minnesota. The leather possesses a natural beauty and unmatched durability.

This Fall, among others Red Wing introduces a classic Brogue Round Toe – once originated as a hunter’s boot – today well suited as a gentlemen’s style, a classic Pecos boot honoring one of Red Wing’s most loyal shoemakers and a col-laboration with British designer Nigel Cabourn.

AMERICAN CLASSICS

TIMELESS qUALITy AND

CRAFTSMANSHIP

Red Wing Shoes

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164.

Manifatture 7 Bell S.p.A., born in 1949, is the first Italian blue jeans manu- facturer. The first pieces were work garments crafted with a very resistant denim purchased from the American Cone Mills, the first denim producer in the world. A long-term cooperation last-ing till today.

The original Roy Roger’s jeans intro-duced some features that never changed over the years: zippers on back pockets (patented and registered since 1950) to make them safer at work, for the pocket money a coin pocket on the front and the black triangular label on back pockets. Through decades of history the brand maintained its originality and preserved a high quality in raw mate-rials, exclusively American, Japanese and European denims, with a constant

research on special washings, on dif-ferent lines for woman and man strictly hand-made in Italy.

RUGGED is the vintage collection of Roy Roger’s inspired by the American world of the 40-50’s and by the vin-tage clothing of the private historical archive. This new denim collection is based on the search of the “new vin-tage”. In concurrence with the con-struction of the new Roy Roger’s head offices, the historical brand went back to the origin of its jeans as worker pant dressing the builders with the historical 5-pockets raw denim. Six months of incessant and extreme use transformed it in an authentic vintage without using any industrial process. The final result inspired this collection and the future ones.

NO FUTURE WITHOUT

A REAL HISTORy

Roy Roger‘s Rugged

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166.

Around 1850, Saint-James, a com-mune in the French Lower Normandy located 20 km from Mont Saint-Michel, experienced a real industrial adven-ture: the Legallais family started to spin and dye locally produced wool. Mr Legallais, who was also the Mayor of Saint James then transformed a work-shop into a real industry.

When Mr Julien BONTE took over the company in 1950, the traditional activity was given up to concentrate on the manufacture of cardigans and sweaters, including the famous «Real Breton Fisherman’s Sweaters» knitted in pure wool. With such thick and tight knitwear, they were considered almost waterproof... Knitted very close to the body, this sweater becomes «the seafarers’ second skin». Saint James became famous for this „genuine nau-tical Breton sweater», now worn by

sailors, yachtsmen, tourists and the fashion-conscious alike.

Today, the Saint James «seashore lines» in either pure wool, or pure cotton appeal to a greater and more diversified customer base. The mens, ladies and childrens collections consist of a range of classic and fashion knitwear, com-bined with a selection of T-shirts, in both plain and striped styles.

In addition to that, Saint James offers co-ordinated blouses, casual shirts, slacks, jeans, jackets and skirts. The Saint James range also includes knitted hats and scarves, as well as rainwear and duffle coats, with a very strong nautical theme prevailing. These days, the Saint James company is acknowledged as a leading French manufacturer of quality garments: a model for authenticity and French tra-dition.

NÉ DE LA MER

Saint James

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168.

The Autumn/Winter2012 collection of Salvatore Piccolo is divided into several smaller sections that differ in their type of product : 1) SPECIAL WHITE , proposed also in the last two seasons, this time including the new White Patchwork shirt; the 2) DENIM section : with some edging fabrics and some Japanese fabrics; 3) CANVAS : proposed last season too but expanded with other exclusive fabrics of different type of textures ; 4) the RESEARCHED LINE which includes double-face

fabrics, exclusive oxford fabrics with a flannel touch and over shirts in plain felted wool and cotton fabrics ; and 5) the VINTAGE LINE which includes Scottish tartan shirts in pure cotton. Furthermore, Salvatore offers a series of classic and vintage scarves and ties matching these beautiful shirts.

Like the last Salvatore Piccolo col-lection, AW 12 is again inspired by the old traditional style but mixed with modern and sophisticated fabrics.

TRADITIONAL STyLE,

MODERN FABRICS

Salvatore Piccolo

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170.

The unique and exclusive Schiesser Revival collection is an eloquent testi-mony to Schiesser’s long and rich tra-dition. Indeed, Schiesser Revival is the epitome of quality and craftsmanship, blended with natural elegance, eternal beauty and contemporary aesthetics. Schiesser’s inspired fashions redefine “tradition”, proving that firmly estab-lished values and quality have their place in the 21st century. Schiesser Re-vival – more than a fleeting impression.

The AW 12 collection conveys a truly unique fashion statement in combin-ing traditional values, quality and pio-neering modernism. The women’s and men’s collections embrace zeitgeist and smartness in both the styles and high-

trend colours selected for this exqui-site range. The new AW12 product line is complemented by stylish loungewear and various high-fashion outerwear styles featuring exclusive piece-dyed or garment-washed jersey fabrics in a superb colour range. Underwear, shirts, blouses, cardigans and sophisticated nightwear are the must-haves of the women’s collection.

Among the highlights in the men’s collection are cardigans, shirts, pullo-vers, long johns and – as a new addition to the range – exquisite pyjamas. The Schiesser Revival collection has once again clearly succeeded in transposing the charisma and purism associated with the Schiesser name.

REDEFINED TRADITION

Schiesser Revival

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172.

Nearly a century ago in 1913, back when the world was still in black and white and sounded kinda tinny, two brothers in a little shop on New York’s Lower East Side started a simple jacket company that would become an icon of American culture.

Their mantra was simple: forget the trends, ignore fickle fashions, just make the best damn product possible. The next hundred years proved to be a doozy, and as America marched on, through two World Wars, the rise of cinema, and birth of Rock n’ Roll, America did so wearing Schott, with quality, individuality and innovation infused in every jacket.

Schott NYC’s 2012 collection harks

back to a simpler time when deals were done with a handshake and a smile.

Motorcycle jackets have been treated with an aging process that treats both the leather and the entire jacket once it is constructed to give it a worn-in look and feel, bypassing years of wear and tear required for achieving that perfect appearance. Military bomber jackets, duffle coats and peacoats have all been carefully selected from Schott’s extensive archives.

What makes a Schott jacket isn’t just a cut or style that was once popular some decades ago, it’s the jacket’s own heritage, a character that only comes from years of refinement and a lifetime of ingenuity.

AMERICAN ICON

Schott n.Y.C.

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174.

Seil Marschall

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For over a century already, Seil Mar-schall produces finest quality ropes, extending their range to outdoor clothing, shoes and accessories. Tak-ingpride in its hand made quality, the small company from Bad Waldsee, Germany claims that their best ma-chines are still their hands.

Seil Marschall invests a lot of time in the production, with quality and sus-tainability as the main principles. Their outdoor clothing for hunting, leisure and adventure is made of loden from finest natural materials: wool or cashmere, Swiss cotton poplin or waxed cotton.

In the production of the hand-sewn moccasins and outdoor boots, the Seil Marschall shoe manufacture uses

strictly vegetal tanned leather, real lambskin, and wool felt. The moccasins are completely lined with real lamb fur and have a natural crepe sole.

Every stitch is hand sewn without any compromises regarding quality and comfort. This principle also applies to the bags, produced in the Seil Marschall saddlery: only linen from the best wea- ving mills, vegetal tanned leather, wool felt pads and brazen metal fittings are used.

This exceptional craftsmanship quality cannot be produced in great quantities due to its time consuming dedication to detail, making the Seil Marschall products exclusive and valu-able: Timeless products for a lifelong use, not for waste.

handmade in germany

since 1896

176.

Originally founded by William H. Kaufman Inc. in Kitchener, Canada, Sorel has long been associated with the development of durable, comfortable, cold-weather footwear. Launched in 1962, the Sorel line was the first to combine leather uppers, handcrafted vulcanized rubber shells and remov-able felt liners with iconic styles such as the Caribou and Pac boots. For its 50th anniversary, Sorel will feature two limited editions of the original Caribou and Sentry boots. Born from the desire to make a boot that would deliver ex-plorers comfortably into the beauty of the great unknown, SOREL has been creating footwear for the fearless since 1962: fashionably bold, unapologetically daring and beautifully brave. Luxurious materials and flawless construction are brought to life by designs that challenge, invigorate and surprise. From sweet sneakers for sultry summer days to boots that turn heads while taking on

the tundra, SOREL inspires fashion-for-ward feet for every season. In addition to its iconic styles, SOREL developed two new collections for fall 12: the Dwell and New Icons collections.

DWELL: Meet the softer side of SOREL. The Dwell collection is all about creating a blissful retreat for feet, a place to escape the rigors of everyday life. Supple leathers, cozy wool and soft felt create a plush cocoon of warmth. Comfortable style, casual vibe at its best.

NEW ICONS: The New Icons are pieces of the Sorel past taken into a new direction with trend forward designs and a fearless spirit. Sorel’s rich DNA dialed up with a modern aesthetic. Sleek and captivating silhouettes, confident attitude and a modern flair that’s equal parts bold and beautiful. The New Icons are riding inspired boots, sleek and styl-ish with premium full-grain leather up-per, spat overlay, stacked leather heel on rubber shell, and adorned with buckles.

BOLd and BeaUTiFUL

Sorel

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180.

In 1865, John B. Stetson fashioned the hat that would become the symbol of American independence, individu-ality, integrity and strength. Today everything that carries the Stetson brand, from authentic Westernwear to rugged Actionwear to contemporary Streetwear and timeless classics, stays true to these American values: Make things right and the best they can be. Over 145 years later, Stetson is proud to have maintained a focus on lasting style and legendary quality.

This season Stetson invites you to join an Arctic dog sledding expedition! The Autumn/Winter 2012 collection is inspired by the spirit of adventure, the bond between man & �man�s best friend�, and the untamable great outdoors. Along with some notable new styles in authentic Woolrich® checks and organic Etaproof® all-weather cotton fabrics, Stetson�s range of premium-quality hats

& caps will keep you warm, protected, and fashionable on your journey.

No Arctic expedition would be com-plete without the proper trapper hat. Stetson offers a range of these perfect cold-weather hats in multiple styles, color combinations, and qualities.

Highlights of this season are the rug-ged “American Bison” leather trapper, the incredibly soft rex-rabbit lined trap-per, and the smooth vintage goatskin bomber style.

The winter collection has been ex-panded to include classic Fair Isles knits, chunky pearl-knits, vintage flan-nels, and our signature premium cash-mere and cashmere-blend caps.

All hats in this new theme collection come marked with a special dog sledding inspired pin, an expedition patch brand-ing inside and a custom carabiner hang tag. Also the Stetson basics offer a va-riety of innovations.

Stetson

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expediTiOn cOLLecTiOn

182.

Stockman

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Stockman is the French creator of busts, dummies and accessories stands with a tradition reaching back as far as 1867, when Fredric Stockman was the first to think it should be possible to standardize the shapes of the human body, and so he categorized the sizes in cloth: 8, 10, 12,… and more.

Back then, at a time when only the rich had their tailors and dressmakers, Stockman was a precursor in believing in the burgeoning democratization of clothes and, together with his associ-ate and designer Siegel, he started to manufacture busts and dummies to be

used in the ready-to wear trade and by couturiers. Today, Stockman is the supplier of the most important fashion brands, with a worldwide reputation for producing the most beautiful busts and dummies.

Most of the Stockman products, such as dressforms, mannequins, accesso-ries stands, are handmade in Paris. This year, new products like new metal bases, new fabrics and new accessories stands are introduced, all of them rep-resenting the Stockman philosophy of French tradition, French savoir faire and French spirit.

French saVOir Faire

186.

Ten c, The Emperors New Clothes, introduces the forever collection. The original fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen tells of looking beyond what you are told to see and to value what is truly there. The ability too see past the fashion media barrage is a new interpretation of the original fairy tale.Ten c. Seven pieces that wear no labels either inside or out. They ask to be loved for what they are. Pieces that last for-ever.

These timeless and iconic jackets are created to live and age with you, and the incredible Japanese jersey will, with time, mould itself almost imperceptibly to you. It will become part of your life’s story like the dented wristwatch from

when the Bungy broke and would have broken your arm had you not being wearing that watch. The tent that wears the scars of every event it has ever been to with you. That pair of jeans you just cannot throw away. They will become exclusively yours.

Ten c believe that by applying the true values of craftsmanship and creating garments that are conceived to last all your life, they can in some way help, and this comes from the bible of real environmentalists, in the elimination of waste. They are talking about caring. And quality.

Ten c is designed by Alessandro Pungetti and Paul Harvey and is made exclusively in Italy.

JacKeTs

ThaT LasT FOreVer

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Ten

188.

A shoe can be fashionable, but only when you wear it, it becomes stylish. In connection with your personality and your look, a new whole is created. A whole more sophisticated, more com-plete than the sum of its parts. That’s style.

the last conspiracy was founded in 2010 in Copenhagen, Denmark, by the principle of being made to meet the highest standards of fine shoemaking. The brand is a joint venture of fine shoemakers and their friends, with more than 35 years of experience in

producing handcrafted shoes.the last conspiracy creates simple yet sophis-ticated shoes, using specially selected leathers, and most of the shoes are ei-ther blake stitched, Norwegian Stitched or Goodyear-welted with triple-layered soles for ultimate comfort.

Designed in Denmark and produced with pride in Portugal, the last conspir-acy is a great unity of Scandinavian sense of design meeting the traditional Portuguese craft of high quality shoe-making: a very rare perspective on the world of shoe design.

LOVe FOr QUaLiTy

and design

the last conspiracy

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190.

Tricker’s, founded in 1829 by master shoemaker Joseph Tricker, is one of the oldest family run shoe businesses in the UK. Today the fifth generation of his family still manages to apply the same traditional crafts in the production of the Tricker’s shoes. Originally coming from a background of boot making for army and country purposes, the boot production is still the backbone of the factory. Tricker’s holds the Royal war-rant: “By Appointment To His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales Shoe Manufacturers”, and has since the 70s become popular among musicians as well, turning it into the boot maker for kings, pop- and punk stars alike.

For over 180 years now, all Tricker’s shoes have been hand made in St. Mi-chael’s Road in Northampton. Here, craftsmen apply their legendary skills to produce both hand-made and bench-made shoes which maintain a standard seldom equalled in the world of Good-

year welted footwear, using only the best available materials, including calf upper leather and oak bark tanned soles to produce their boots, fine dress- and street footwear. The Tricker’s core prin-ciples of quality, innovation, durability, skill, style, adventure and success are stitched into every single pair of shoes, no matter if worn on the dance floor, in the Royal household, in the high-lands, at festivals or in the saddle! R.E. Tricker’s is a craftsman‘s firm, feeling much obliged to manufacture sustain-able products: no „synthetic vintage“ - only the finest calfskins and cowhides secure the wonderful aging process of the Tricker’s products.

For AW12, suedes, cordovans and oiled leathers are favourites, comple-mented by soles in contrasting colours. Coloured leather linings are a „must have“ for this urban shoe and boot col-lection. For girls and boys, Tricker’s offers round toecaps.

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Legendary sKiLLs

Tricker's

192.

TST Footwear is designed by the esteemed footwear designer Seisi Tanaka. The shoes incorporate the pu-rity of both manufacturing and design philosophy of this Japanese shoemaker.

The shoes have inspired many other designers over the years, as Tanaka captures the artisanal essence of vin- tage craftsmanship with superb uncompromising materials.

His shoes feature horse leather on the upper, cow leather in the trims and soles, and cabretta leather in the in-soles, finished with linen lining for the precise scientific behaviour of these

natural components. Tanaka’s inspira-tion comes from his life experiences combined with his technical knowledge of shoe making.

As a teenager, he completed a schol-ar-ship studying golf at North Carolina University in the USA.

He then returned to Japan at the age of twenty-four to work for his family shoe making business. Since branch-ing out on his own, Tanaka has worked with leading basketball companies de-signing technical footwear, and has collaborated with fashion brands of the highest level.

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The essence OF

VinTage craFTmanship

TST

194.

Viberg was founded in 1931, during ‘The Great Depression’, when Swedish immigrant Edwin Viberg started mak-ing horse harnesses and other farming tools. During the Depression and ensu-ing decline in farming, Edwin learned the craft of shoe making, adapting his leather skills. Originally, Viberg sup-plied farm and construction workers with boots, along with army boots dur-ing the war. Glen Viberg, Ed‘s son, has been involved with the company since 1970, and it is now a 3rd generation, family owned business.

Viberg uses two methods of boot con-struction, Nailed down, and Stitch down.

Nailed down construction is used for logging and heavy work boots. It is one of the pioneers of boot making, a time-less method. Stitchdown construction is used on all of the Viberg street col-lection, and it allows for a more flexible and comfortable fit. Both types of con-

struction are very durable and strong, allowing for years of use, with proper care and resoling of the sole. Viberg is one of the last boot companies who use all brass nails and tacks, which don’t allow the leather to rot when wet.

The philosophy of Viberg originally and still is to make the strongest, long lasting boots with the best materials that can be sourced. To this day, Viberg remains one of the only shoe and boot makers in the world to use all brass nails and tacks throughout their shoes.

This AW12 season, Viberg is launch-ing a capsule clothing collection off of its 80 years heritage. A five piece, vin-tage- inspired collection, drawing on its origins during the Great Depression era and farm work wear. Included in this collection are new complementing leather colours for the boots. To make a Viberg Boot from start to finish, it takes 218 steps, all made by hand in Canada.

Viberg Boot

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HANDCRAFTED

IN CANADA

196.

In 1995 in a local pub in NYC Johan chats with a former U.S. Air Force com-bat pilot who had been rescued from a river in a bailout mission in the Rocky Mountains on high altitude during a blizzard. According to him, the jacket he was wearing saved his life because of its insulation called Lamilite. This material is developed in Colorado by Wiggy�s Inc., a producer of outdoor gar-ments and sleeping bags designed for extreme conditions. What sets Lami-lite apart from other insulations is the fact that every fiber is silicone treated which gives the Lamilite two unique qualifications: first, the fibers are ex-tremely water repellent which gives you an insulation that will keep you warm even if water penetrates its shell fabric. Second, the silicone treatment makes the Lamilite antistatic.

The superior performance and quality of the Lamilite insulated Wiggy’s prod-

ucts have been celebrated among both outdoor users and the U.S. Military and have made them the choice for the U.S. Air Force, the U.S. Navy, and the Alaska State Troopers for several years. The Wiggy’s sleeping bags are used as part of the Air Force and Navy survival kit, since they can be compressed to a minimum size but still regain their original loft.

The pilot�s story left a big impression on Johan and as a consequence he later launched the Wiggy�s Global Inc. project in 2007, producing a lifestyle collection of warm winter jackets based on the unique insulation. Johan�s partner is Mr. Wigutow, the founder of Wiggy�s Inc. and producer of Lamilite. The inspira-tion for the collection is drawn from the world where the insulation has been used before; the U.S. Military and as work wear in the cold temperatures on the North American continent.

Wiggys

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FinesT

OUTdOOr gear

GLOBAL INC.

198.

windsor. crafts tomorrow’s design for people who live today, for those who don’t need a mirror to see that they have arrived. The windsor. brand com-bines self-confidence with understate-ment, for those who appreciate quality and a contemporary style – the classical combined with a feeling for the times in which we live. The result: a distinc-tive and absolutely timeless look. For over a century, windsor has worked with the best designers, tailors and fabric suppliers, making it a premium brand for men and women.

Having internalized the knowledge that apparel must not only be a visual sensation but also a sensuous pleasure,

the windsor. collections captivate with the elegant ease of their premium Italian fabrics and their distinctive cuts, rounded off by confident tailoring perfection and craftsmanship.

It is the windsor. philosophy not to be fashion, but style – a value, a principle that has always been far removed from ephemeral trends.

The unmistakable character of the brand includes confident style, tradition and quality. windsor. is already well known throughout Europe, now con-tinuing its worldwide expansion and widening their offer by adding new product groups.The windsor. journey has just begun!

windsor.

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FOr The

perFecT mOmenT

200.

Inspired by an authentic heritage spanning over 250 years, Wolsey is a contemporary brand influenced by clas-sic design. Established in 1755, Wolsey is the original Great British fashion brand, one with an impressive aesthetic to match its otherwise unrivalled cre-dentials.

Wolsey features two collections – the heritage inspired, detail focused and technically brilliant Wolsey collection, and the Wolsey 1755 collection, a pre-mium line of soft tailoring and sharp apparel. Both ranges draw on Wolsey’s extensive archive, an abundance of garments that mirror modern British experiences, from military clothing to the foundations of contemporary sportswear. Wolsey was one of the early pioneers of the Industrial Revolution

and has clothed some of Britain’s brav-est and most inspirational men. These include arctic explorer Captain Robert Falcon Scott, Britain’s soldiers in World War I and II, Olympians and British royalty.

Autumn/Winter 2012 sees the brand blend traditional British style with out-door and military influences. A rich of-fering of heritage inspired classics in the Wolsey collection is partnered with a range of deconstructed tailoring separates in the 1755 collection, a light sportswear influence finished in a con-trasting colour palette of muted lights and deep tones.

Wolsey has re-invented British clas-sics to craft a stand out collection, distinguishing it as a genuinely con-temporary British heritage brand.

a TrULy

demOcraTic heriTage

Wolsey

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202.

In 1883, G.A. Krause founded the Hirth-Krause Company in Rockford, Michigan. Krause was a third genera-tion leather tanner and boot maker who prided himself on creating finely tanned leathers which in turn created comfort-able and durable footwear. Inspired by hard-working men of the time, the com-pany would soon innovate the industry.

Krause’s best selling model: the Wol-verine 1000 Mile Shoe. The first of its kind, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe was created in a time when men were look-ing for authentic craftsmanship and footwear that would last. Crafted from a special tanning process using shell horsehide, the 1000 Mile Shoe offered superior comfort and durability. Adver-tised as comfortable enough to “give you 1,000 miles of wear,” the shoe became a wardrobe staple for men of the 20th century. The ideals and practices of Wolverine as a brand have remained the same since its inception. Paying homage

to the company’s beginnings, the 1000 Mile Collection is based on original designs from the Wolverine archives. Composed of four key collections, the cornerstone Original collection includ-ing the 1000 Mile Boot, the Gentlemen Collection inspired by original working-man designs from the 1930s and 1940s, the Garrison Collection inspired by work and military boot design and the Gentry collection that showcases Wolverines history of creating high-end boots for the outdoorsmen, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection continues Wolverine’s centu-ry-long heritage of providing comfort and durability. AW12 highlights include a collaboration with renowned outdoor brand Filson for a 6” and 8” boot. The new line also features the Courtland, a moc-toe version of the Original 1000 Mile Boot with a rubber outsole pad, and the Watson, a cap-toe oxford. All styles fea-ture Horween leather uppers and Good- year Welt construction.

Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection

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a cLassic reVisiTed

204.

For FW12 Woolrich John Rich & Bros returns to the story of the founder, John Rich, an Englishman who came to America to make a new life and founded the Woolen Mill with traditional British methods. The company quickly evolved to meet the necessities of this pioneer envi-ronment, making goods for fur traders, train conductors, lumberjacks and car-penters. Any work that had to be done, Woolrich developed a product to keep those workers safe and warm, with pockets for their tools. This thread runs through the whole history of the brand to the Arctic Parka, created for the men working on the Alaskan pipeline. It has come full circle with the 2012 John Rich & Bros collection. Mens FW12 pre fall collection, “Makers and Trades-men”, refers to companies like Woolrich, and people like John Rich, and to men performing skilled manual work, rep-resented by items such as the archival “Conductor Vest” - a strong combination of tailored, traditional English clothing

with utilitarian workwear. Mens FW12, “Trappers and Traders”, focuses on cold weather pioneer activities in the North, where trapping was lucrative and trading goods for goods between Europeans and the native people re-sulted in the strong mix of cultures, with blankets and furs being the most valuable commodities of the time: a mix of “frontier” type of garments with more traditional tailored and functional, working garments in a more classic colour palette.

Womens FW12 shows the interaction of European fabrics and fashion with the needs of pioneer American women in the 19th and early 20th century, play-ing with the combination of utilitarian elements and work garments mixed with super feminine/European fabrics and styles, with the “Trade and Hand-made” line as a combination of tradi-tional English elements and traditional native shapes in more classic and con-trasting colours.

Woolrich

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OriginaL

OUTdOOr cLOThing

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Bread & BUTTer BerLin

see yOU in sUmmer 2012!

L.O.c.K.

LaBeLs OF cOmmOn Kin

LOCK BOOK BREAD ET BUTTER • AIGLENTINE UK • 165 x 235 mm • Parution ??/2011 • Remise 28/10/11 TAF • BAT

THE BOYFRIEND

BOOT

FOR THE REINTRODUCTION OF MAN INTO NATURE

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AIGL_1110362_AIGLENTINE2_UK_165x235.indd 1 27/10/11 18:32

NOTES

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