L.O.C.K. Book 4

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B O O K

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BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN

sUmmER 2011

L.o.c.k.

LABELs of commoN kIN

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B o o k

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sUmmER 2011

PUBLISHERBREAD & butter GmbHMünzstraße 1310178 Berlin, Germany

EDITORIAL OFFICEBREAD & butter GmbHCorporate PublishingMünzstraße 1310178 Berlin, GermanyTel. +49 (0)30 400 44 0Fax +49 (0)30 400 44 101www.breadandbutter.com

DISCLAIMERThe L.O.C.K. Book is published by BREAD & butter GmbH, Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany. Contributions, in which the author or company is named, do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Place of jurisdiction is Berlin, Germany.

COPYRIGHTAll rights reserved by BREAD & butter GmbH. The copying of graphic design or information with regard to the use of texts fragments of texts or image material demands prior written consent from the publisher.

IMAGES & LOGOTYPES Delivered by and property of the respective L.O.C.K. brands.

MANAGING EDITORJenny Boers

CREATIVE DIRECTIONRobert Dizdarevic

GRAPHIC DESIGN & IMAGE EDITINGAnja Decker

ADVERTISINGJenny BoersAlex Kernlinger

PRODUCTIONKathleen Hiller

PRINTINGDruckhaus Schöneweide GmbHBallinstraße 1512359 Berlin, Germany

CIRCULATION4.000 copies

IMPRINT

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06.

WELCOMEby Alex Kernlinger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 08

“I LOVE WHAT IS HAS BECOME”Interview with Brett Viberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

LACOInnovation and Precision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

L.O.C.K. - Labels of Common Kin Summer 2011 BRANDS:AG Adriano Goldschmied Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . 18Aigle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Armor Lux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22B.D. Baggies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Bailey of Hollywood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Barbour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Blauer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Buttero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Canterbury of New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Clip & Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Denham the jeanmaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Dockers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40Dr. Martens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan . . . . . . . . . . . 44Dunderdon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Edwin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48ETON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Farah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Filson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Fred Perry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Frye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Gilded Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Gloverall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Grenson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Hartford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Hobo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Johnson Woolen Mills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70K.O.I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72LACO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Lavenham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Lee® 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Lee® The Archives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Levi’s® Made & Crafted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Levi’s® Vintage Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Ludwig Reiter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Lyle & Scott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Meindl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Merz b. Schwanen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Midori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Millican . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96n.d.c. made by hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Nigel Cabourn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100NS Denim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Nudie Jeans Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104ONETrueSaxon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Oscar of Sweden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108PACE Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Pantherella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Penfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Preventi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Primeboots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Prps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Prps Goods & Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Quoddy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124R.M. Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Red Wing Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Robinson Les Bains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Salvatore Piccolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Sanders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Schott NYC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Shabbies Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Slazenger Heritage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Sorel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Stetson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Stockman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146the last conspiracy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Tony Mora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Tricker’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152TST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Viberg Boot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Wiggy’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158windsor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Wolsey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection . . . . . . . . . . 164Woolrich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Worn Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168

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CONTENT

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08.

l.o.c.k.

labels of common kin

Assertiveness is based on reliability. Reliability is the result of quality.

Quality emanates from the passion for perfection and precision.

The result is a solid fundament for the quality of each product and there-fore for sustainable business.

In its 5th season, the L.O.C.K. – Labels of Common Kin constitutes itself as the original trading platform: A prosperous market place where heritage signature brands and contemporary newcomers

share their affinity to craftsmanship and their valuation of authenticity.

Their products are meant to be worn, lived in and worked in gaining added appreciation and value with each use.

At the L.O.C.K., these Labels of Common Kin are connected with those who believe in the same philosophy, but are on the other end of the trading: the buyers. Here, a unique community of like-minded people make business to-gether. A solid business based on solid

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WELCOME

09.

values with solid products created with solid persistency.

Consequently, the L.O.C.K. hall has evolved in terms of quality season by season, underlining its position: be core while being commercial.

We believe that continuous improve-ment sets the standard for long term business and hence partnership. A value which tends to be forgotten but never should be.

In this 4th edition of the L.O.C.K.

Book, we to proudly present the brands exhibiting at the L.O.C.K. – Labels of Common Kin at BREAD & BUTTER in Summer 2011.

Enjoy exploring!

Alex Kernlinger

Brett, you come from a family of

shoemakers. How did your family tra-

dition evolve, and what was it like for

you?

My Grandpa came to Canada from Sweden in 1914. By his late teens, he had made a reputation as a harness maker and would travel around the prairies with different “threshing” crews maintaining harnesses and the leather belts for the combines. At some point on his travels, he met an English shoemaker who taught him the basic craft of shoe making. So by the 1930s, the Great Depression had kicked in, and in 1931 he opened up Viberg Boot with his wife, my grandma.

Growing up into a shoe making fam-ily, me and my brother would spend so much time in the factory watching and playing around with the machines, it really became like a second home.

Because shoe and boot making is in my blood, it’s the first thing that I look at when I meet someone. You can tell a lot about a person with what they wear, particularly what is on their feet.

How do you master the balancing act

between preserving and continuing your

family tradition and at the same time

following new directions such as your

orientation towards Japan?

I think the balancing act is fairly

10.

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“I LoVE

WHAT IT HAs BEcomE”

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The family-run Viberg Boot company is known for producing some

of the best made shoes and boots available. Brett Viberg belongs to

the third generation of these hands-on Canadian craftsmen.

Viberg Boot celebrate their 80th anniversary this year.

INTERVIEW

with Brett Viberg / Viberg Boot

easy to do. Still a large portion of what we make is for the construction labor, or logger.

The thing about the actual “work” boots, that style of boot we make, will never cross over into the “fashion” or “lifestyle” market.

What the Japanese have done with most brands, from ours to many at this show, is allow the Heritage brand to see the potential of what it’s doing, or has been doing, and then putting a new twist on it.

For myself, I think once I have seen the potential of our brand through someone else’s eyes, which was after my first trip to Japan, I got to see the

full potential of what is possible other than just making a simple and rugged work boot. As a kid growing up, mak-ing steel toe boots for the “blue collar” worker wasn’t the cool family business, but now I love what it has become.

It wasn’t until the Japanese started educating everyone on craftsmanship, that this whole movement started.

Of course we knew our boots were well made, but no one else could care less about it.

So in come the Japanese, with this interest and education in well-crafted products, and now the whole world has seemed to have been woken up. Japan is very controlled with its producing

11.

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industries, from car maker to watch maker to boot maker, everyone in Ja-pan knows that if you pay more for something well made by a craftsman, it will outlast the cheaper product.

Plus if you maintain and take care of it, it will be with you for a lifetime.

North America use to be like this, which is why this “American” fashion is so popular, people are celebrating what USA used to be back in the 1920s-1950s, when there was still a real in-dustry here.

All in all, I think that this movement is here to stay, with more people be-coming aware, I think you will see a growth of local support.

Please tell us more about your affin-

ity for Japanese craftsmanship, and the

effect is has on your product. The Japanese have this attention to

detail that no one else seems to have or even understand. They tend to view something in the most specific way. Since most of our product is sent to Japan, it has been such a huge learn ing curve for us: before, we would just make a black boot, and now we stock something like 18+ colors of leathers and options for the boots.

The Japanese inspire everyone who sells in Japan to become a better craftsman. The thing about the Japa-nese products is they are the real deal,

Viberg factory in 1933

13.

you can’t buy a better jean or shirt, they will do it the old way of making the jean - which seems “anti -produc-tive” from a monetary viewpoint, but the end result is beautiful. I think that is why they like our product, we are very similar. Most of the companies who do business in Japan would be in the same boat as us.

What is your Viberg highlight at the

moment?

The Original Service boot: I was looking through the factory at older models and patterns, and then came across these boots, the Service boot, so I asked my dad what he knew about

them. He said they were from around the late 1930s, probably the original boot that we made. And then when I took a close look at the factory photo from 1933, I realized you can actually see the workers making this boot in the photo, on top of one of the work benches. This original model is actu-ally a nailed down boot, we still do the same construction today, but compared to the stitchdown method, it’s just too stiff of a boot.

So I basically took what my grandpa had done, and then slightly changed the pattern to what I thought suited better, and then I have designed some new last and toe shapes.

Original Viberg Service Model

Current Service Boots

The company Lacher & Co. – the name LACO deriving from the first syllables – was founded by Frieda Lacher and Lud-wig Hummel in Pforzheim, Germany, in the middle of the 1920s.

The company grew continuously and produced the legendary high-precision pilot and observation watches, which were an essential part of a pilot’s equip-ment in the 1930s and 1940s. These ob-servation watches served as a means of navigation in addition to the cockpit instruments compass and altimeter dur-ing the visual flights common at that time with previously fixed routes and

turning points. Before the start of a fly-ing squadron the crowns of the watches were pulled out and the watches were set to zero. When the captain gave the order “Start” the crowns were pulled in so that the watches of each pilots were running synchronously. After a certain fixed time an order previously determined could be performed. It was very impor-tant that the mechanical watch move-ments had to be of highest precision. The technical features of these watches were specified, as were the shape of the hands, the design of the dial, the typeface and also the dimension of the

LAco: INNoVATIoN

AND PREcIsIoN

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THE OBSERVATION WATCH

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original pilot watch with packaging from the 1940s

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crown. The number “12” on the dial, marked with an arrow, enabled the pilot to get a fast orientation in each situation, and by means of the disproportional big crown the watch could be handled without having to remove the gloves.

In order to ensure that the dial could be read during night the hands and the numbers on the dial were equipped with radium, a radioactive material with high luminosity.

These observation watches were clas-sified with “FL23883”, a description for navigation instruments. This number was engraved on the outside of the case,

on the opposite side of the crown. Due to the high standard concerning precision and reliability the production of the observation watches was a great challenge for the watch manufacturers.

In the 1930s and 1940s, only five companies were authorized to produce such observation watches, and LACO is one of them. LACO now produces a limited edition range of the observation watches: Type A, with a clear and tra-ditional design, and Type B, that is also a precise navigation instrument trans-porting the wearer into the fascinating world of flying.

original pilot watch with packaging from the 1940s pilot observer pilot watch from the current range: www.laco.de

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B R A N D s

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sUmmER 2011

18.

Starting out as a small boutique line in 2000, AG Jeans has since become synonymous with great quality, design and state-of-the-art washes.

The ultimate goal for any denim brand is to create jeans with genuine vintage appeal, while maintaining a modern silhouette and authentic washes. The AG brand is dedicated to the continued development of the brand and a com-mitment to the Made in the USA label.

AG is a brand that is centered on recreating vintage denim washes. They pride themselves on offering the most beautiful and true vintage washes in impeccable fits. They always look to vin-tage jeans when looking for inspiration.

Every jean really does tell a story, and no two are alike. There’s always a reason why a particular jean has a certain wear pattern depending on the wearer’s life-style, job, etc, and that is something the brand pays attention to when creating new washes and fits. Iconic silhouettes updated with the fundamentals of good design inspired the SS’12 collection.

Both men and women’s collections reflect subtle and refined detailing alongside classic styling. Bottoms showcase novelty prints, colours and authentic washes all with a relaxed feel. The knit tops exhibit fine detailing, texture and pops of colour for women, and clean, practical sophistication for men.

AG Adriano Goldschmied Jeans

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HANDcRAfTED

AND PERfEcTLy AG-ED

20.

In 1853 the American Hiram Hutch-inson created the brand “A l’aigle” in France. He obtained the patent from Charles Goodyear for the vulcanisation of rubber, previously used exclusively for tyre manufacturing, in order to make boots and shoes.

To this day, this expertise remains concentrated in a single workshop in France, where, from the initial prepa-ration of the rubber to the final touch-es, every boot is hand made under the attentive control of craftsmen. This unique heritage guarantees the water- proofness, durability and comfort of every product.

In tradition with this experience and know-how, Aigle launched, in the late eighties, its first clothing and footwear

collection. The Aigle range dresses the whole family from head to toe with authentic and durable clothing and footwear combining style and function; all built around one mission: to live at one with nature.

Aigle’s SS12 collection offers authen-tic garments and draws its inspiration from the roots of the outdoor spirit. The collection theme, Summer Camp, is a celebration of the great outdoors.

The collection’s masterpiece is the Sixty- fourty, an iconic outdoor style from the late 60s: the first lightweight multi-activity jacket, which has been re-designed for men, women and children. The footwear collection is also inter-preted in outdoor tones and turns the classics on their head.

fRENcH RUBBER

cRAfTsmAN sINcE 1853

Aigle

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22.

The Bonneterie d’Armor was founded in 1938 by Swiss-German businessman Walter Hubacher. He started with creating a production of high quality underwear and striped Breton shirts under the brand “Armor Lux”. Today, Bonneterie d’Armor includes three production facilities in France with 650 employees. Armor Lux stands for more than 70 years of experience in the fabrication of high quality nautical

fashion „Made in France”, and is proud to produce everything from fabric to ready-made-garment under one roof, since they are convinced that is the only way to maintain high quality standards. For the summer 2012 col-lection, they have selected some classic nautical and marine items and revis-ited them. They are being shown in the brand new Armor Lux heritage collec-tion. Find the real Breton style.

REAL BREToN sTyLE

Armor Lux

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According to legend the origin of B.D. Baggies dates back to 1919, when a young man named Bradford Dexter Bagg discovered a trunk full of his father’s old clothes, very well made and comfortable, so that when autumn came, Bradford took the trunk with him to the East, where he studied. Bradford’s friends at school admired his new wardrobe and soon the extra comfortable clothes with that air of being “lived in” were called B.D. Baggies in honor of the first person to wear them. In 2009 WP Lavori in Corso re-launched the brand worldwide by completely mod-ernizing concept, style and product.

Under the creative direction and de-sign of David Mullen, the B.D. Baggies project returns to the American origins

of the brand. Designed in the USA, from 100% pre-laundered cloth with a lived-in look and an unmistakable appeal, the collection contains original styles, inno-vative fabrics and designs and a new fit.

For SS12, fabrics convey a modern twist on denim such as their cotton linen chambray, indigo madras plaids, and their fine weight chambray.

B.D. Baggies offer a fresh option of white shirts by using white loom oxford and lightweight popline, and for ladies, dobbys giving subtle texture to the shirt especially after laundering. On offer for spring: a 40’s jersey in three varieties of stripes grounded in blues, providing the knit group with an energetic, fun, and less basic appeal.

B. D. BAGGIES

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NEW FINE

AMERICAN BASIC

26.

Bailey of Hollywood

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In the early 20’s, Southern Califor-nia’s economy was growing at a break-neck pace. Los Angeles-based film studios accounted for nearly one-fifth of California’s annual manufacturing business, and it was there that George Bailey would start his business in 1922: the Bailey Hat Company. He catered di-rectly to the needs of the ‘New West’, outfitting southern California ranchers, businessmen, oil tycoons and, the newest segment of the population, movie stars, with ‘the best hat possible’. George Bailey understood Hollywood’s leading men as arbiters of taste and style, and from its very early days, Bailey of Hollywood was chosen as a regular supplier to the Hollywood cinema industry – with customers such as Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper or Bing Cosby. Throughout its 88-year history, Bailey of Hollywood has earned an exceptional reputation by continually providing its customers with the same unparalleled quality and craftsmanship as well as

sophisticated industry-leading designs. The Bailey of Hollywood collections maintain this heritage - a combination of Hollywood and Western alive by re-vising classic styles from their archives, as well as creating new contemporary designs.

During the last five years, Bailey of Hollywood has become actively pre-sent in the European markets, where the brand values and designs have been understood and passionately embraced.

These hats have been taken in by hat lovers in London’s Shoreditch and Camden, Paris’ Belleville and Le Marais and Madrid’s La Latina and Chueca. Bailey’s “traditional-American-flavour-with-a-twist” has proved to be a successful recipe with the new generation of hat wearers that make Bailey of Holly- wood as fresh and happening as in the heyday of the cinema mecca: Keeping the genuine American hat tradition alive!

GENUINE AMERICAN

HAT TRADITION

28.

An iconic British brand, Barbour is renowned for its waxed jackets, motorcycle jackets, quilts, shirts, knitwear and casual clothing. Quality, durability and fitness for purpose have been the guiding principles since 1894. The result is stylish, functional clothing that per-forms in any environment.

For Spring Summer 2012, the Scram-bles range, based on 1960s motorcycle styles, unites the most colourful jackets in the International collection. High-light pieces are washed down red, blue and green wax cotton jackets alongside bold knits with bright stripes.

The Black Streak collection is purity itself, with key styles reworked in time-less monochromatic colours. Authentic details such as check linings and black/yellow studs reflect a brilliant slice of heritage refined for the 21st century.

Within the Heritage collection, naval inspirations remain strong with an off

duty/on shore edge whilst Country Vintage examines Barbour’s archival history with modern interpretations of classic pieces in new materials and colour palettes.

Lightweight, co-ordinated shirts and knitwear feature in a mix of fabrics and fibres such as cotton cashmere in knit-wear and indigo shirting.

The Barbour Steve McQueen col-lection continues into spring, paying homage to Steve’s passion for Southern Californian desert racing. Jackets in sandstone, earthy browns and olives combine with western style shirts and tees to create a rugged outdoor summer feel.

The Beacon Heritage Range, now in its sixth season, has a prominent focus on shirt jackets and for the second sea-son, Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida concentrates on knitwear. Truly out of the ordinary, it’s a fashionista’s delight.

ClASSIC STylES

WITH MODERN

INTERpRETATIONS

Barbour

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30.

For over 60 years, Blauer has been the leading brand in the U.S. for supplying technical garments to all Law Enforce-ment and to some select sectors of the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy officers or the Commando guarding the White House. Under its motto “Uncompromising Per-formance”, Blauer equips its customers with outerwear protecting them against heat and cold, water and danger. In the U.S., Blauer garments are only sold through specialized channels such as Police Agencies.

Since shortly, Blauer garments are also available in Italy thanks to a licence

agreement with FGF INDUSTRY S.P.A. Company, addressed to a public keen on “made in U.S.A.” brands and on techni-cal items with a rich history, that are “authentic-original” even if improved in comfort and fitting, having adopted characteristics and shapes necessary for the European Market.

During the last four seasons, Blauer has been proposing two new collections: Blauer Helmets, a collection of helmets for the motorbike, and Blauer Elements, a collection of shoes and accessories both for man and woman.

UNCOMpROMISING

pERFORMANCE

Blauer.

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32.

A “Buttero” is the original Tuscan cowboy, traditionally riding his Marem-mano horse over the sun beaten hills of Southern Tuscany. Named after these original cowboys, the Buttero brand is renowned for its superior leather riding boots.

Buttero was founded in 1974 by Mauro Sani, who set out to make the best rid-ing boots in the world. Today Buttero remains owned and now run in second generation by the Sani family in the enchanted Italian region of Tuscany. High quality, craftsmanship and “Made in Italy” are the key features of the Buttero brand, whose main aim has always been to create products rigor-ously handmade with a rustic flavour.

Handmade by craftsmen in Stabbia, Tuscany, Buttero boots honour the Tuscan recipe book with simple, honest,

and local ingredients. Buttero uses the best local vegetable-tanned leathers, which age beautifully just like the region’s wine: The wearer of Buttero boots can feel and smell “il profumo della pelle” - the scent of the natural leathers, which mainly come from the tanneries in the Santa Croce area in Tuscany.

Buttero colours are the infinite natural shades of the earth, water, leaves and fire. The materials used are soft calf suede, with cottons in natu-ral tones adding a fresher touch. The styles are characterized by the play of opposites such as light or opaque, strict or “twisted” lines, and invisible or visible stitching. Traditional buckles and rings round off the Buttero range, produced with a Tuscan passion for tradition, creativity and quality.

Il pROFUMO

DEllA pEllE

Buttero

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34.

In 1904 John Lane, Pringle Walker and Alfred Rudkin founded the Can-terbury Clothing Company in the New Zealand province of Canterbury, pro-ducing woolen garments. The com-pany grew steadily, its robust clothing became the trademark of Canterbury of New Zealand, and soon the legend-ary New Zealand Rugby team, the All Blacks, ordered the first Rugby tricot.

For more than 75 years, Canterbury of New Zealand produced tricots for the All Blacks, and remains one of the world’s most prominent manufacturers of Rugby clothing. With over 105 years of history behind it, this iconic New Zealand rugby brand has set its sights on a college inspired lifestyle range.

SS12 is the 4th installment of the Canterbury lifestyle range. The core college aesthetic of the collection has remained the same, with a strong focus

on collegiate garments, which utilises colour and fit in the clean, unique Can-terbury style.

Deep navy, rich purples, Cambridge blues and crisp greens all combine to-gether to create an instantly recognis-able Canterbury collection.

New silhouettes for the knitwear include iconic Isle of Aran crew necks, luxurious cable knits, and a styled cricket jumper which gives a wink to the crick-eting past of Canterbury.

SS12 also heralds an exciting period for the brand, with the presentation of its first women’s wear collection. Taking design cues from the men’s collection, the womens line uses similar palette, but the silhouettes and small details set it apart. Floral kiwi tabs sit on the hemlines of striking silhouettes such as the varsity jacket, slub blazer and check shirts.

COllEGE lIFESTylE

Canterbury of New Zealand

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36.

In a log cabin in eastern Wisconsin, near Smokey Mountain, lived a man by the name of John H. ”Harvey”.

Throughout his whole life, Harvey had lived here, with only the bare ne-cessities. He lived off the land, and depended on clothing that could protect him from the ever-changing Mountain climate.

In 1932, on his way home from a 12 h work day, Harvey was hit by a massive mudslide that threw him 300 feet down the mountain. Miraculously, Harvey survived, heroically fighting back to his cabin after four days of hiking in bare feet. It was this fight for survival that inspired Harvey to create his very own hiking boots: back at the cabin, he worked for weeks, cutting and sewing. Considering the boots were sewn with-out today’s advances in production and material, their general functionality was phenomenal. Soon the locals dis-covered that Harvey produced his own

hiking boots and began to ask him to make boots for them as well, and ru-mours of Harvey’s boots, now named Clip & Rope, spread like wildfire. Now John H. ”Harvey” no longer needed to live off the land. When he died in 1979, so did his boots – until one fall day in 2003, when a curious hiker happened to enter the abandoned Wisconsin log cabin. In exploring the cabin, the hiker found an old box filled with needles, thread, leather – and two pairs of original Clip & Rope boots. That was the start! Today, Clip & Rope boots are reproduced in a small, exclusive quan-tity, in a factory which also produced a few pairs when Harvey could not keep up with the demand back in the 70`s. The factory only has the capacity to produce 102 pairs a day. Highlight: a small part of the Clip & Rope collection will be made in cooperation with Pede & Stoffer, Copenhagen. Remember- they are worth saving!

WORTH SAVING

Clip & Rope

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38.

With the newly opened Amsterdam DENHAM Service Co., Denham reveal their unique take on the in-store work-wear atelier concept, realizing their contemporary vision on bespoke tailor-ing. The space, laid out by Jason, “the Jeanmaker”, features a new in-house Service Centre, allowing customers ac-cess to all the support required for the long rewarding journey between quality jean and passionate jean-wearing: leg-shortening, fit alteration, hand-washing and tear-repair, all individually selecta-ble and performed on restored original vintage machines; the operations that contribute the character and texture as a Virgin denim transforms into a per-fectly broken in one-of-a-kind jean over months and years of wearing. Since the journey from unworn to worn-in can’t start without a fresh pair, the space is also home to the Virgin denim collection, with a full range of unwashed Japanese denim jean models on offer.

This season, the SS12 collection showed at Bread & Butter is based on the theme “Indo-Indigo”: Indochine in-spiration drenched in ancient Indigo blue, cut across with iconic “Nam” era styling. Colours are “The Blues and the Greens”: the perfect blue feeling due to variety of resonating indigo tones, the greens of the Indochinese landscape and the olive-drabs of the Vietnam era. Fabrics are “Fabric with Float”: Indigo rubber-painted Limonta Italy nylon, 3-layer waterproof breathable shell fabric, featherweight reversible wax-washed cotton/nylon, perforated glove leather, 4 oz denim, stretch gabardine and lighter shirting cottons for men. For women: a cotton ripstop complete with pink selvedge, indigo linen mixed with buffed Teflon, single-sided wax-washed cotton/nylon, sheer silk & chambray, linen jersey, openwork knit and a signa-ture allover print updating a traditional Indochinese batik motif.

“DENHAM SERVICE CO.”

A FUlly BESpOkE

DENIM SERVICE

Denham the jeanmaker

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40.

The Dockers® K-1 Khaki story is a must for the elite Khaki connoisseur. It is designed to encapsulate the mood of more than 165 years of Khaki history, combining utility and military trends with style and uniformed design. Dockers® is committed to leading the category with newly imagined styles. The Dockers® K-1Khaki is the most authentic military inspired pant avail-able. The Dockers® K-1 story is there-fore a collection built on the tradition, integrity and authenticity of the origi-nal Dockers® K-1 Khaki pant.

The collection for Spring/Summer 2012 is built around a premium range of Dockers® K-1 Khakis; a soft and rumpled K-1 chino in rich Cramerton cloth, a Kurabo custom selvage twill chino, and a Utility cargo pant. WWII

inspired military shirts lead tops, with the support of a long-sleeve Henley tee, a brushed cotton sweat-top, and 1940s vintage inspired graphic tees.

The colour palette is what one would expect from a range born in a military family; Sahara, Gold Rush, Olive Green, Midnight Blue, Grey Heather and Burnt Orange. A selection of canvas and leather bags, belts and eye-wear com-pletes the collection.

Dockers® Alphabeats is an extension on the Dockers® Alpha pant which was launched last season. A collection of premium chinos, masculine shirts, fitted graphic tees and classic accessories; it takes its inspiration from the San Francisco beatniks of the 1950s and 1960s at a time when pop culture was emerging at a break neck pace.

THE DEFINITIVE

kHAkI BRAND

Dockers® Khakis

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42.

Dr. Martens air-cushioned sole, de-signed by German inventor Dr. Klaus Maertens, was engineered to meet the specific need of providing additional support and comfort for a broken foot. Through an ad in the British Shoe & Leather News, Dr. Maertens met British boot makers R Griggs and Co, and in 1960, the first Dr. Martens boot was manufactured, with its trademark yel-low stitch, grooved sole and heel-loop.

It was a boot for workers: comfortable, durable and lightweight in comparison to its competitors at the time. Initially worn by postmen, policemen and everyday workers, the boots were adopted, cus-tomised and used as a tribal emblem by successive subcultures, decade after decade.

Over the past 50 years, the Dr. Martens 1460 boot hasn’t changed. The original boot is still simple, versatile, functional and stylish all at the same time – yet still

associated with individuality, creativity and rebellion.

Dr. Martens continue to make the Made In England collection at the unique Cobb’s Lane factory, which has been producing footwear for the Griggs family since 1901. Within this modest factory walls work a close-knit family of people steeped in traditional shoe-making methods. In amongst the smell of freshly cut leather and the noisy backdrop of pristinely preserved ma-chinery, the unmistakable shape of a Dr. Martens boot begins to form: trav-elling the short length of the factory floor beginning with a small pile of tanned leather hides. The process takes the boot through various highly skilled stages of evolution until its final arrival – laced up and spotless – in a box, ready for a life of being cherished.

Dr. Martens 1460 - an immediately recognisable, British product classic.

Dr. Martens

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A BRITISH CLASSIC

44.

DUKES Finest Vintage Artisan is a luxury leather manufactory and stands for traditional craftsmanship, function-ality, art and stable value. The Vintage-Collection consists of a passionately restored exclusive range of unique and extremely rare up to 30 years old army leather belts and bags. General inspira-tion is the spirit of live: a combination of the afflicted with the beautiful and lovely; the sweet with the bitter.

The DUKES products are elaborately adorned: embossed, riveted and painted by the skilled hands of former members of Vienna’s Augarten porcelain manu-factory. Every processing step is done by hand. Each style is a unique and authentic collector ‘s item with heart and history - “aged with pride“.

The current collection features the “best of classic belts and bags“, with ex-isting classic belts that are relaunched and newly interpreted.

Military inspired, unisex, heavy duty, functional, exclusive and exotic mate-rials serve as the base of the DUKES bag line.

“DUKES Heritage” is the new product line for which only naturally grained heavy duty bull-leather from one of the oldest Swedish tannery is used. DUKES Finest Vintage Artisan developed a special process to age the leather and giving them a unique authentic charac-ter by using only natural ingredients.

The DUKES products are precious collector’s items – much more than just accessories!

Dukes – Finest Vintage Artisan

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A TRIBUTE

TO THE ORIGIN…

46.

Born in the Swedish port town of Gothenburg, Dunderdon is one of Swe-den’s most innovative workwear com-panies. Registered in 1997 by carpenter Per-Ivan Hagberg, the Dunderdon mis-sion has always been to create clothing for craftsmen who appreciate superior construction and smart design.

Per-Ivan’s initial creation was a line of pants made with a uniform fit but designed with different stylistic high-lights. The result of this initial solution was clothing that was individualistic and distinct but also clearly part of one related style family.

By standing up to the demands of a variety of workplaces, early model Dunderdon pants quickly became the standard for Sweden’s many artisans, builders, and craftsmen. Following a successful launch, Per-Ivan went on to design a full collection of clothing for working men and women.

The Dunderdon Spring 2012 collec-tion is focused on the brand’s workwear heritage with even more professional workwear functions added than before. Apart from this, the collection was inspired by the scout movement and the army, resulting in a versatile mix of products such as tight wind proof para- chute poplin cargo pants and shorts, solid Panama canvas in short functional scout shorts, and a watertight spring jacket in Ventile fabric with an army-inspired fit.

Further highlights of the collection are chinos in a Cordura/cotton fabric that is five times stronger than regular workwear fabrics, but still only weighs 245g. All of the pants are telling the Dunderdon story in nice earth colours, making them easy to combine with the Dunderdon shirts and T-shirts all coming in indigo blue and off white for spring.

Dunderdon

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SWEDISH WORKWEAR

48.

In 1947, Edwin Denim Company was established in Tokyo, Japan by K.K. Tsunemi, the company name playing on the word “denim” with the “m” turned upside down.

In the beginning, Mr. Tsunemi had to import used denim from the U.S. since no denim was manufactured in Japan at the time: worn-out and dirty denim which had to be laundered and mended by hand in order to sell on to his cus-tomers.

In 1951, domestically manufactured denim was available for the first time in Japan. This product was expensive and of inferior quality compared to its American counter arts. Mr. Tsumeni was driven to create his own denims, with greater sophistication in fits, wash-es and quality. He crafted the first pair

of Japanese made five pocket, signature 16oz Rainbow selvage denim in 1961 - the very first Edwin denim jeans.

With genuine craftsmanship, qual-ity and innovation at the heart of its identity, Edwin uses exclusive fabrics while employing unique technology, handwash processes and continual progression in design and fit.

Edwin always remains close to its Japanese roots, gaining inspiration from its historical denim archive dating back to 1947: Fusing heritage purity and manufacturing experience with modern utility.

The SS12 collection continues to pay homage to a great half century of premium jeans manufacturing, while exploring new lighter fabrics and in-novative new washing processes.

HERITAGE PURITY

WITH MODERN UTILITY

edwin

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50.

Eton is a family owned Swedish company. Their heritage of quality craftsmanship since 1928 and an ambition to always exceed their custom-ers’ expectations create an environment where they continuously strive to reach the highest quality in all processes.

Eton shirts are well known all over the world because of their high quality and the unique design. The fabrics come from the finest yarns available, admired by many because of the outstanding look and performance.

Designing their own fabrics gives Eton the edge to achieve the specific hue we need for each shirt.

The Spring/Summer Collection 2012 perfectly suits the season while re-maining timeless in its sophistication and elegance. As it has for nearly a century, Eton chooses only the finest fabrics from which to craft their shirts. An exclusively designed fluid twill, wo-ven for breathability and a smooth, soft

hand comprises most of the collection’s heirloom-worthy pieces. Eton’s signa-ture finish lends a silky touch, hand-some lustre and superior durability to this material, making it perfect for spring and summer days.

The Green Ribbon line for Spring/Summer 2012 is made from the softest, washed material available: gently washed oxford, Italian linen, extreme lightweight poplin and a new ultra-light seersucker. Less formal but no less sharp than Eton’s legendary dress shirts, these impossibly comfortable shirts will take you seamlessly from a perfect day of relaxation to a glittering night of fun.

The gentleman knows that his ac-cessories are the signature on his personal style. Ever obliging, Eton of-fers a broad range of neck ties, bow ties and handkerchiefs that rolls out in the same vibrant colour palettes as the shirt collections.

STYLE

IS IN THE DETAIL

eton

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52.

The FARAH brand was born in the 1920’s in Texas, but it was not until the 1970’s in the UK that it reached the cult status it holds today. The original FARAH slack made from hopsack canvas became an immediate hit with the youth of Britain: slim cut, sharply tailored and featuring stain resistant technology, the trouser was unlike anything available at the time.

Momentum for the brand grew and in the 1980’s FARAH became a must have label amongst fashion savvy hip-sters, including the Mods, Skins, and Rockabillies. Each group interpreted the brand within their own style, building key FARAH items into what became their definitive looks.

Today the FARAH label still holds the heritage and vigour it stood for then. A whole new generation of men

throughout the world are drawn to the brand’s history and inspired to discov-er the distinct look for themselves.

The FARAH Vintage S/S 12 collec-tion was inspired by the summer feel of 1950’s French and Italian Riviera’s colours and textures combined with the urban cool of London’s Mod culture and iconic Rock ‘n’ Roll influences: modern summer pieces with hints of nostalgia. FARAH 1920 for S/S 12 is a streamlined capsule touching all the essential elements needed within a sea-sonal Men’s wardrobe, with signature FARAH detailing throughout and a colour palette of classic bases matched with bright colour pops. This range is designed to appeal to the sophis-ticated guy who wants his wardrobe to be effortlessly stylish, high quality and individual.

EFFORTLESSLY

STYLISH

Farah

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54.

Filson

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When the Great Clondike Gold Rush started in 1897, C.C. Filson outfitted the fortune hunters rushing through Seattle on their way north. The men were in need of a barrier against tem-peratures up to -50 °C. At the time, clothing was a matter of survival. Fil-son had the solution: best handcrafted, tough protective wear, comfortable, functional outdoor clothing. “If a man is going North, he should come to us for his outfit.” was the Filson claim in those days.

Since then, Filson products made in Seattle, U.S.A., have earned a world-wide reputation for their quality and durability. Hunters, fishermen, engi-neers, explorers, mariners, and miners have valued the rugged quality duffle bags, tote bags, sweaters, jackets, and belts. Today, adventurers in the busi-ness world can carry their laptop in a

reliable Filson bag throughout their various quests.

The attention to detail is apparent eve-rywhere: “Cover”, “Shelter” and “Tin” cloths are made of extremely dense woven cotton, soaked in a special, par-affin-based wax. The leather used by Filson is cut from the strongest parts of the cow skin, and tanned vegetal. Only 100 percent Virgin wool is used, for the fibres come straight from the sheep and have ideal isolating and wa-ter absorbing qualities. Filson bags are the toughest luggage you’ll ever own: Filson claim to have once even lifted a 230 pounds heavy 1968, 1,500 c,c, Sin-gle Port Volkswagen engine in one of their Extra Large Duffle bags, six feet in the air. Both bag and engine sur-vived the experiment. These unique, all-natural products are truly made for a lifetime.

MADE FOR A LIFETIME

56.

2009 marked the year of the Fred Perry centenary: its founder, charis-matic British tennis legend and table tennis champion Frederick John Perry, was born in 1909 in Stockport, Great Britain. After winning Wimbledon and the Davis Cup several times, gain-ing him international fame, in 1952 Perry created innovative sweatbands and handed them out to the best ten-nis players who wore them on court: the Fred Perry sportswear brand was born. He chose the laurel wreath, vic-torious sign on the Wimbledon medal and Davis Cup blazers he owned, as the logo for his stylish casual wear.

Over the past decades, Fred Perry became not only a global fashion brand, but also synonymous with subcultures driven by musical influences, the most famous ones being the British Mods, who adopted the Fred Perry shirts as their favourites. Today, Fred Perry still is the epitome of British streetwear. Although the Fred Perry range today includes menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories, and collabo-rations as part of its Laurel Wreath concept collection, its signature piece remains the classic, slim piqué cotton shirt – the Fred Perry shirt.

HERITAGE WOvEN IN

Fred Perry

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58.

Founded in 1863 by John A Frye, The Frye Company is the oldest con-tinuously operated shoe company in the United States. Frye’s footwear has a long and illustrious history: when homesteading sparked adventurous New England families to go West in the mid and late 1800’s, many of those pioneers wore Frye Boots along the journey.

Frye’s Harness Boot is rooted in tradition and continues to draw in-spiration from the American Cavalry. During a 1938 trip to Washington, DC, John A Frye’s grandson and namesake, a US Navy Admiral, noted his difficulty in finding the Wellington styles he liked so much. As a favor, John agreed to make him a pair. Frye continued to fill these requests for boots through WW II.

By mail order the company supplied thousands of servicemen with Frye

Wellingtons, known as Jet Boots. The boots traveled the world on the feet of US soldiers during the war – even Gen-eral Patton wore a pair. Today, their classic Harness Boot holds a treasured place in American culture.

In the 1960’s, Frye re-introduced the Campus Boot based on its 1860’s origi-nal. The style featured a bulky toe and chunky heel that came to epitomize the attitude and the styles of the 60’s and 70’s. There was nothing like a “new” Frye Boot on the market, and consumers began to demand “Original Frye’s.”

The Smithsonian Institute, in their search for items to best represent 1970’s America, chose a pair of Frye Boots, which proudly remain on display today.

The Frye brand remains true to its heritage and vintage American roots with finely crafted, fashionable boots, shoes, and leather goods featuring rich leathers and quality hardware.

FINELY CRAFTED

HERITAGE

Frye

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60.

On the return from Paris in the late 1920s, Hemingway visited the tiny re-mote Florida island Key West. For him, it was like living in a foreign country while still perched on the southernmost tip of America. He loved it. “It’s the best place I’ve ever been anytime, anywhere, flowers, tamarind trees, guava trees, coconut palms…” Key West became the dream escape.

This natural environment of Key West coastal outdoors at the beginning of the 1930s is the inspiration for the Gilded Age S/S 12 collection: a snap-shot of those rare moments of relaxing contemplation, the simple pleasure of a quick escape and getaway with friends, and in Hemingway’s case: a lot of fish-ing and bar hopping. The collection’s mood is relaxed, with a natural patina, presented in a range of natural and bright S/S colours: sands, khakis, Carib- bean blues, indigos, chocolate browns, juxtaposed with pops of lighter sage

greens, sunrise yellows, and coral reds. In denim, Gilded Age stays true to

selvages in a variety of self edge finish-es from purple to yellow and white. Key item of S/S 12 is denim in orange, sage green, natural and white, and the top selling Baxten Slim Jeans in rare rodeo wash. Woven shirts come in a variety of chambrays, stripes and mini checks. For outerwear: a washed coated linen bomber style jacket. Sweaters include a super fine Mongolian cashmere hand knitted beach sweaters and pullovers in roving long staple Peruvian cotton yarn. Founded by Stefan Miljanic, prin-cipal designer and creative director, Gilded Age is an environmentally con-scious, casual luxury brand deeply com-mitted to organic, handcrafted, and artisanal approaches to fabric and product development. The line is a con-sistent mix of premium selvage jeans and luxury sportswear that is sold at high end stores worldwide.

SLOPPY JOE

Gilded Age

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62.

In 1951, Freda and Harold Morris, specialised in selling cotton, leather, gloves and overalls, were approached by the British Ministry of Defence to help dispose of their surplus supplies of World War II duffle coats. It was then that Harold Morris conceived the name Gloverall: a brand was born.

Today, Gloverall has become one of the most respected and loved British brands, recognised worldwide as pro-ducers of the foremost Original Duffle Coat. The Gloverall has gained truly iconic status as a design classic.

SS12 is inspired from original mili-tary and nautical garment archives together with traditional English coats, interpreted into updated fits, styling and fabrication. Garment washed in Lon-don and lightweight drill cottons give a worn patina to a Watchman Parka and a Combat Jacket in a colour palette fea-

turing classic army, khaki, navy and a more contemporary desert orange with a brighter palette of reds and yellow. The Mid Monty has been interpreted for SS12 in a lightweight cotton nylon. The Gloverall 1957 English Car Coat reintroduced for the 60th Gloverall Anniversary is adapted for SS12 use again in garment washed cotton drill. That summer country feeling comes from British Millerain in classic country colours injected with a festival bright palette of red, green, yellow and royal. Riviera Nostalgia features in a nautical reefer in garment dyed cotton canvas in navy, royal, red, white and marine together with a newly developed jersey fabric Breton Stripe Duffle. Gloverall signature quality touches in finishing and detail add individuality to these duffles that are traditionally Made in England.

THE

ORIGINAL DUFFLE COAT

Gloverall

R E G D.

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64.

This season, Grenson presents its 288th collection since the company began in 1866. Operating from the original Victorian factory in North-amptonshire, England, Grenson is a Goodyear Welted shoemaker with many generations of experience.

The mainline collection is called G1 and is handmade in the factory using the ultimate in luxury materials and handmade techniques, to produce their

prototype collection in Limited Edition form.

The diffusion line is called G2 and is the replica collection of similar styles made from the original G1 prototypes but in more affordable materials.

The Grenson factory also works on a limited number of collaborations with like-minded retailers, brands and other designers to produce unique dual bran- ded shoes, in small quantities.

HERITAGE Is bACk

Grenson

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66.

New York City, 1979: Yves Chareton founded Hartford collection, following his vision to recreate 40’s and 50’s vin-tage shirts he had found at Parisian Porte de Clignancourt flea markets in the late 60’s - ubiquitous button-downs in faded plaids or bright oxford, west-erns in raw denim and work shirts in chambray. Thanks to a manufacturer who believed in his vision, Yves was able to launch a casual and cool line of vin-tage-inspired shirts. Hartford was an instant success, and fans such as Bruce Springsteen ordered dozens of shirts to wear in concert. Hartford became synonymous with quality fabrics, rich colours, and above all, with authenticity. Yves had an eye for refined prints, and for mixing fabrics in perfect harmony.

Within a few years, the collection became a complete menswear line, in-spired by classics: Military coats cut from Savile Row tailors, fatigue pants

borrowed from the US Navy, an old school shirt in faded oxford stripe, a Fair Isle sweater freshly recreated - all examples of classic styles that Hartford reinvented to become contemporary, stylish but never trendy.

In 2000, Yves launched a vintage- inspired beachwear collection, a womens line, and a children’s collection.

The S/S 12 collection is fully inspired by Atlantic sea-side summer holidays in the south west of France, between Le Cap Ferret and Biarritz, where the sun and the ocean swells fade the bright summer colours: Sea washed bright col-ours for shirts and polos, mixed with khaki chinos and army bottoms, Navy Deck Jackets worn with denim and chambray shirts, and overdyed prints in 20 colours for quickdrying nylon swim shorts. Highlight for S/S 12: a special collaboration with Liberty for exclusive nylon swim shorts.

sTYLIsH

bUT NEVER TRENDY

Hartford

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68.

Hobo Boots and Shoes was estab-lished in 1982. Inspiration for the name was a romantic view on the way of life of the American wandering workers “Hoe-boys” = “Hobos” at the beginning of the last century. Travelling on slow-moving cargo trains, the Hobos had to endure extremely hard living conditions in a life that demanded a strong will and great courage, but that also meant a great deal of independence.

Those wandering Hobos needed to develop a strong and independent char-acter in order to survive, similar to the modern Hobos of today’s global intellec-tual and creative communities that are living in a very versatile and demand-ing world and have developed a strong desire for authenticity and individuality.Malefiz GmbH adopted the old tradition of American Hobos and based on this

philosophy created the Hobo Trademark, producing high quality handmade boots and shoes for the modern Hobo.

Characteristic of the Hobo products is the combination of traditional and mod-ern technologies. Besides the continu-ous development of new boots and shoes, Hobo has made a name for itself by introducing high quality boots for the equestrian market.

Original shoes from passed times have seen a revival in styles like Charly Shoes, the Saddleshoe Collection and the Cabaret Collection: updated to suit modern demands, with the very special Hobo character.

To this day, Hobo Shoes are produced in small traditional manufacturing com-panies in Portugal. Hobo Boots and Shoes - for the long dusty roads of life.

FOR THE MODERN HObO

Hobo

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70.

On the New England country side in the state of Vermont, down by the river in the town of Johnson you can find an old mill house. Here Johnson Woolen Mills started to produce clothes and blankets in wool from Vermont sheeps.

This was back in 1842, when there were still hundreds of mills in the United States - today there is only four of them left, and the Johnson Mill is the only one left in New England.

Still producing in local New England

wool, Johnson Woolen Mills is one of the strongest, most authentic brands from the U.S.

With their over 100 years long tradi-tion in wool products, Johnson Woolen Mills really stands out. From sherpa lined vests to backpacks, from tote bags to pants, from jackets to blankets, everything they make is by hand.

Johnson Woolen Mills produces clothes both for men and women using only the best New England wool.

MADE WITH PRIDE

IN VERMONT sINCE 1842.

Johnson Woolen Mills

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72.

Introducing ‘Kings Of Indigo’ or just K.O.I, a denim brand that fits it’s time but with respect for the classics.

Inspiration for the brand is original American denim wear, the authentic jeans. K.O.I takes all-time favorite styles in both wash and fit, mixes them with a Japanese eye for detail and then develops them according to mod-ern ways of green production. K.O.I creates New Classics.

The look might be timeless, the production process is very 2012. Fo-cusing on sustainable denim and tops K.O.I produces ‘every garment with a conscience’ by launching a Triple- R concept: Recycle- Repair- Reuse. Using recycled material simply saves resour-

ces and the fact that K.O.I offers a repair service for your damaged jeans helps you enjoy them longer. Then when you’re ready for a fresh pair, you can leave your oldies and the Kings will re use them for one of their new collec-tions. Inspiration for the name is the Japanese Carp, Koi, symbolizing luck, love and perseverance.

With K.O.I it’s all about making quality jeans, the kind you just keep wearing. Original coloring and a strong fit are key. K.O.I works with traditional construction techniques, making sure these jeans only get better with time. Classics for the new era.

They like their denim blue and their conscience clean.

NEW CLAssICs

K.O.I - Kings of Indigo

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74.

The traditional watch manufacturer LACO was established in 1925 in Pforz- heim, Germany, known as the “City of Gold” famous for the production of watches and bijouterie.

Having started with the embedding of quality Swiss movements in cases of own production, LACO grew to become one of only five certified manufacturers of the legendary pilot watches of the 1940`s. These watches were highly val-ued for their precision and reliability due to the use of cutting edge tech-nology. Those high-precision watches, however, are not the only products arousing today’s strong interest of the masses: in the 50’s, the compa-ny was successful with models like the “LACO Sport”, a watch with the first automatic winding movement. And in the 60 s, LACO excited with Germany’s flattest automatic movement, just to name a few of the innova-

tive and precise LACO watches. LACO feels still obligated to this

great tradition. Today, the company builds pilot- and

navy watches true to its originals for a fast growing market. Apart from the traditional watches, LACO also manu-factures special “Squad watches”. The name derived from the strong demand of special operation forces first using it during their “daily work”.

The LACO Squad watch stands out due to its excellent readability of time, the extreme robust craftsmanship of the watch case, the special position of the crown, and its entire perfect hand- ling and watertightness up to 20 ATM.

These features recommend the Squad watch for anyone using this ex-traordinary watch outdoors under the hardest circumstances: Whatever will happen, a LACO won t let you down!

A TRADITION

FOR INNOVATION AND

RELIAbILITY

LACO

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76.

Lavenham is an English manufac-turer of superior quality country cloth-ing and horse rugs.

The brand was founded Lavenham, Suffolk in 1969, and made the first nylon quilted horse rug, closely followed by matching jackets and waistcoats for the rider. The name quickly spread and Lavenham established a reputation of quality and durability through its nylon quilted products, making it a repeated winner of the “Queen’s Award for In-ternational Trade”.

Today, people are still charmed by the brand for pretty much the same reasons as 40 years ago. Keeping with the commitment to in-house manufac-turing, Lavenham oversees each stage of production in their Sudbury prem-

ises, from cutting, quilting to the final inspection of goods. The best raw ma-terials are sourced within the British Isles, whenever possible, right down to the interlining used. This stamp of British quality and the classically English design have made Lavenham a highly covetable brand.

For Spring/Summer ‘12 Lavenham has delved deep into their archives to bring you classic designs with a new twist, using 100% cotton Jersey, Liberty prints, shirting and linen/cot-tons for their outerwear.

Lavenham are also introducing new lines into their collection to give their loyal customers a more structured range of their fine English quality clothing.

CLAssIC DEsIGNs

WITH A TWIsT

Lavenham

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78.

Lee® 101 is a celebration of this American denim brand’s incredible heritage and history, refined and dis-tilled for a modern consumer. Denim aficionados worldwide know only too well about the iconic styles that started life at the cutting tables of the Lee® Mercantile Co. Lee® 101 delivers a taste of this authenticity married with a new sartorialism to offer pieces that are modern, fresh and timeless at once. This season, six authentic and original Lee® creations form the heart of the collection and are celebrated in fresh new interpretations.

Inspired by the hallowed preppy years of the 60’s when sharp silhou-ettes and slim, neat looks reigned supreme; Lee® 101 reworks the Lee® icon pieces and delivers looks that are

sussed and proper. Revel in fine tailored garments, slacks paired with rich toned knits and indigo hued shirts, an almost Ivy League sensibility reigns supreme with seersucker blazers and button downs adding sporty pep to knee skim- ming shorts. Denim comes into its own with a depth of finishes from crisp rigids to vintage home laundry looks; a key highlight is the 5 dip natural in-digo selvage.

The colour palette of academic blues, forest green, burgundy and fresh white is accented with bursts of bright tones adding a certain optimistic modernity to an essential wardrobe for SS12.

Every pair of Lee® 101 jeans uses only the best quality denim, sourced from premium Japanese and Italian mills.

FOR PREMIUM QUALITY

AND A sMARTER FIT

Lee® 101

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80.

The Lee® Archives is a range of superior selvage denim that exactly replicates a selection of the brand’s iconic originals.

Exclusively produced in Japan all pieces are faithfully reproduced with passion using the same vintage sewing, cutting and weaving machines that were used in the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s.

The Lee® Archives collection uses exactly the same fabrics, zips, labels, buttons, stitches and rivets that so larked the originals.

Taken from Lee’s® 120 year old ar-chive, each item is a piece of history, originally engineered for railroad workers, cowboys and farmers who demanded strong, hardwearing and

protective clothing. The Lee® Archive combines durability, comfort and func-tion with a sense of no-nonsense de-sign that has been apparent since 1889.

The collection allows the brand’s distinguished history to speak for itself and includes key styles such as the first ever overall; the Union-All the mechan-ics overall developed by H.D. Lee himself in 1913, the Lee® 101B jean from 1924, the first ever jeans with a zip fly – the Lee 101Z from 1926 and the classic blanket lined Storm Rider Jacket.

A celebration of this authentic denim brand’s heritage, the Lee® Archives collection is issued in limited numbers and each piece is a collector’s item for all true denim devotees.

ICONIC ORIGINALs

Lee® The Archives

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82.

A modern assortment based on the principles of good design.

As simple As thAt.

Levi’s® Made & Crafted™

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84.

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Levi’s® Vintage Clothing is an authentic, comprehensive assortment dedicated to capture the spirit of American workwear. Each garment faithfully reproduces the fit, fabrics

and characteristics of the period. The history of Levi’s® is kept alive through Levi’s® Vintage Clothing by staying true to those garments kept in the Levi’s® archive dating back to the 1880’s.

Levi’s® Vintage Clothing

it All stArted here.

86.

The Ludwig Reiter shoe manufactory was founded in Vienna in 1885 as a craftsman’s workshop and is still owned by the family in the fourth generation. Since many decades, Ludwig Reiter is one of the few factories in the world, and the only one in Austria, to produce exquisite shoes after the traditional Goodyear welting method. The shoes are carefully made by hand, and most of the styles can be individually produce as customized orders. Today Ludwig Reiter is also widely well-known for its

high quality sport shoes and accesso-ries, combining the experience of more than 120 years of fine craftsmanship with contemporary requirements and style.

With designs such as the „Trainer“, the „Bowling“ or the most prized crea-tion, the legendary „Maronibrater“, Ludwig Reiter is an international fashion pioneer that has initialized cooperations with prestigious designers such as Helmut Lang, Wolfgang Joop, Paul Smith and Werner Baldessarini.

FiNe CrAFtsmANship

Ludwig Reiter

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88.

Modern, independent and resolutely British, Lyle & Scott is a brand whose iconic Eagle acts as a symbol for both quality and exclusivity.

Established in 1874, Lyle & Scott’s rich history and long-term experience come together with a contemporary aesthetic to offer originality, authenticity and a refusal to compromise. The Vintage Spring/Summer’12 range is inspired by childhood memories of British sum-mertime. The colour palette focuses on soft sorbets and military shades which consequently create Summer plaids, pattern blocking and contrast panelling featured across the range. This season focuses on three key trends; surf, utility and classic which together create a vi-brant Summer collection.

Highlights include a Raindrop Camo and light floral prints which can be seen across a number of product groups in-cluding outerwear and accessories. The collection also incorporates new pieces with soft-tailoring, not forgetting the classic styles synonymous with the brand.

Driven by a single-minded sense of purpose and integrity (and supported by the highest levels of expertise, qual-ity and know-how), Lyle & Scott contin-ues to be a wardrobe stable for those who strive for a bold confident approach.

This collection brings together Lyle & Scott’s rich heritage and long-term ex-perience with a contemporary aesthetic to offer originality, authenticity and a refusal to compromise.

CONFideNt ApprOACh

Lyle & Scott

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90.

With a history of more than 300 years, Meindl produces mens and womens leatherwear collections and outdoor shoes in Kirchanschöring, a small borough in the Bavarian prov-ince of Traunstein. The Meindl signa-ture pieces are the traditional Bavarian short leather pants and rough jackets made of leather and lambskin, first tailored by Lukas Meindl in 1935.

Elaborately manufactured and art-fully embroidered, the high-quality Meindl leather pants and garments are made of the best buckskin and with perfected craftsmanship, providing the best possible wearing comfort. The Meindl style is inspired by the life in

the Alps, and Meindl products convey this characteristic lifestyle through-out the world. The unrestricted Meindl strive for best quality materials and timeless design, lasting for over three centuries now, continues to pay off: today, nearly 500 workers are producing Meindl outdoor boots and leatherwear, always respecting the Meindl tradition of craftsmanship and dedication to quality and service. Notwithstanding the traditional attitude, increasing at-tention is paid to environmental aspects such as the recyclability of the manu-factured materials.

Meindl: a true Bavarian original keeping up with the times.

the BAvAriAN

OrigiNAl

Meindl

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92.

In 1836, circular knitting machines were introduced to the Swabian Alps. On these machines new cotton products could be produced which were much more comfortable than the linen un-derwear common at that time – German knitwear was born! With the help of a traditional knitwear manufacturer from this area, vintage aficionado Peter Plotnicki revived the‚ old way of craft-ing clothes’.

Merz b. Schwanen, founded in 1911, is a brand with a long and proud family tradition. The descendants of Balthasar Merz allowed P. Plotnicki to use the brand name in order to carry on the family’s tradition and history.

Driven by his passion for traditional fabrication processes, he and the team created a collection garments solely made by 1920s -1950s circular knitting machines. All tops are based on authen-tic working man’s apparel ranging from the first decades of the 20th century to

army shirts of the sixties – some slightly modified, some copied from the original piece down to the last seam.

The machines leave their individual trait on each fabric they produce, re-sulting in the individuality of every single garment: an irregular weaving pattern without a side seam.

The new collection is a continuation of the existing garments supplemented by some new styles, such as an origi-nal t-shirt from the 20’s, an original 20‘s-30‘s undershirt and a new button-facing shirt. Highlights are also new materials like mesh, linen-cotton or a hemp-cotton mixture, and new contem-porary colours.

After a successful first season of the collaboration with Nigel Cabourn, this range will also be expanded with new styles and colours.

Merz b. Schwanen: high quality tra-ditional products, completely “Made in Germany” – without compromises!

the Art OF

CirCUlAr KNittiNg

Merz b. Schwanen

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94.

‘...We believe that design not only con-veys something, but also elicits strong emotions and sympathies in interper-sonal communication...’ (Midori President Ichiro Aida)

Since its establishment in 1950, Midori manufactures goods that combine both beauty and functionality by paying special attention to aesthetics and the materials used. 5 years ago, the Midori design team developed a series of products characterized by true crafts-manship, quality and authenticity, an analogue series that could hold its own besides the hi-tech developments in this electronic age.

The Midori ‘Ages well’ series are products characterized by their ‘ages

well’ - signature. The products are built to lasts for ages, and even better, they become more and more beautiful with each scratch.

Over the years, the surface of the Brass series oxidizes to become a deep, tender color hue worthy of long appre-ciation. Some brass pens are painted, but the paint gradually fades as you use the pen, until the pen’s brass appears.

For Midori’s Traveler’s Notebook, each scratch on the leather cover tells a story about the user.

The leather cover is made in Chiang Mai, Thailand, and is tanned using plant-derived tanning, is boldly cut, and fixed with an elastic band and a tin clasp.

Ages Well

Midori

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96.

Keswick, Lake District National Park, England, 1903: Cycle camper, rock climber and true eccentric Millican Dalton trades life as a London insur-ance clerk for wild adventures in the great outdoors. Way ahead of his time, this self-styled “Professor of Adventure” lived a life of simplicity and self-suffi-ciency, in a cave. Millican salvaged old Jaeger blankets, moleskin fabrics, cords, denim, canvas and leather to make his own clothes, rucksacks, tents and sleep-ing bags. A local legend was born.

Keswick, Lake District National Park, England, 2008: Inspired by Millican Dalton’s values, Millican the company creates its first travel and out-door bag collection.

A tight collection based on proven utility shapes, with modern functional-ity for the contemporary traveller and largely made from sustainable materi-als. Organic canvas, recycled polyester, vegetable tanned leather and Lakeland wool add to Millican’s timeless style and built-to-last quality.

For 2011/12, Dave the Rucksack, Mark the Field Bag, Harry the Glad-stone bag et al will be joined by Adam the Suitcase, Keith the Writer’s Bag and Paul the Dome Rucksack.

Meanwhile, Millican’s Dame of Sew-ing, Vera, hand-finishes Les the Cooler Bag, Joe the iPad Cover and Ian the Camera Case in her Lakeland garden shed. Nearly a cave…

iNtrOdUCiNg

OrgANiC trAvel BAgs

Millican

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98.

n.d.c. was created in 2001 by two friends passionate about shoes.

After they had been working shoe business for 10 years, Arnaud Zannier and Enrique Corbi felt that it was time to break free of the corporate machine and create their own story. Together they opened a new dimension in men’s and ladies footwear by making shoes that are individual, anti-conformist, pure and functional without blindly following the ever-changing whims of fashion. Without restrictions to creativity or budget, they brought the best leathers from Tuscany to the finest artisans in Europe and created shoes for people like them who are in pursuit of authenticity

and understated individualism. The brand name n.d.c. - nom de code/code name - reflects their conviction that the strength of the brand is the product itself, where simplicity, quality, origi-nality and constructional know-how are king. They believe in style, in class, in strong personality, in understated grace, in subtle humour, in tradition and evolution, in fusion and harmony, but above all, in individuality.

Arnaud and Enrique are independent in controlling their business and creat-ing their product from a to z which makes sense for a brand whose priority and ultimate objective is the product itself.

UltimAte OBJeCtive:

the prOdUCt

n.d.c. made by hand

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100.

Nigel Cabourn, a true outerwear specialist, is driven by a long standing passion for vintage clothing, fabric and details. His vintage archive of over 4,000 pieces is his inspiration: each collection has a real story, and a sense of history underpinned by the highest level of quality. SS12 is an in depth study into the uniforms and civilian clothing worn by the Desert Rats and Desert Foxes during the battle of WWII.

The Western Desert was unlike any other theatre of battle. Limited to coastal plains and hemmed in by high ground and steep depression, supply was a

constant problem. Desert warfare was a tactician’s dream but a logistician’s nightmare.

The soldiers’ uniforms had to be ef-fective, comfortable and hard wearing as strategy would often involve swift, mobile advances in extreme conditions. Key to the SS12 collection is the fabri-cation which has been inspired from original uniforms heavily bleached in the desert sun.

British desert camo, basket weave cotton and linen, stiff khaki drill com-bined with lightweight fabrics, offer some comfort during swift advances.

desert rAts

Nigel Cabourn

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NIGEL CABOURN LOGO

102.

NS Denim draws inspiration from the notion of natural selection, the spirit of competition and evolutionary progress. It is this essence of constant improve-ment that drives who they are, what they do and how they do it.

Established in 2009, the NS Denim brand reflects a core value of sincerity and functionality.

Their passion for denim determines their pursuit for originality whilst pre-serving their strict rules of authentic-ity and no compromise. The foundations of the brand are its fabrication and the richness of its detailing. NS Denim uses

14oz and 13oz red selvage, narrow- width denim from Okayama Japan, the washes are allfinished by hand: au-thentic and of the highest standard just like all workman-ship involved in the NS Denim production process. The beautiful, hand drawn illustration of the pheasant upon the leather patch was inspired by the decorative engravings on British shotguns - a reference to classic, British innovation.

All living things fight for survival and this empowers NS Denim in their battle for recognition, authority and innovation.

BY WAY OF

NAtUrAl seleCtiON

NS Denim

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104.

Nudie Jeans Co

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The Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans, started in 2001, is not inter-ested in short-term trends. Moreover, they are continuously striving for the evolvement of their design and produc-tion, and express their passion for den-im in two different concepts: The Nudie Jeans Dry Selvage is a special concept with their best selvage denim from Ja-pan, Italy and Turkey, selected high quality denim blended with cashmere, hemp and organic cotton. This line is the core and heart of the Nudie Jeans brand, made for all lovers of Nudie Jeans and dry denims, for all those impassioned fans who understand and embrace the Nudie passion for denim. The four top-of-the-line Nudie Jeans qualities are delivered in a denim tote bag, containing a special Nudie Jeans selvage book. As a distinctive feature, all dry selvage jeans have the selvage edge coin pockets and silver trims.

The second concept is the Nudie Jeans Selvage Lab, a range of modern

collector¹s items inspired by vintage and real worn-in jeans. The LAB jeans have their own personal laundry team, they are exclusively produced in a sam-ple lab and will never be included into the normal production line. The LAB garments all have an individual look, as they do not follow the normal pro-duction procedure. All of these unique items are made out of selvage denim.

The trims are made of pure silver, all LAB jeans feature narrow belt loops and also a selvage lining on the coin pockets. The Nudie Jeans Selvage Lab also includes tops: jacket, shirts and T-shirts, made with the same passion and attention for detail as the jeans. The same LAB laundry team is respon-sible for the washes and treatments, and only the finest selvage fabrics are used for the woven styles. The LAB T-Shirts feature handmade prints, care-fully produced with the same attention to detail that marks the Nudie Jeans: made with Nudie passion.

the pAssiON

FOr deNim

106.

For more than a decade now, deep in the heart of Mercia, England: The fellas at ONETrueSaxon have been producing casual clothing and footwear for dis‑cerning gents everywhere.

Obsessed with style as opposed to fashion, the brand has become synony‑mous with quality, integrity, honesty and a good dose of British humour.

Pride in their craft is central to what they do, and strictly sticking to the prin‑ ciples of “Modern Manners and Casual Etiquette” has and always will be key.

The Spring Summer 2012 collection is no different. It sees a celebration of their Mercian roots, with Jacketing made by the finest craftsmen in Middle England. Inspiration is drawn from the hunting cuts and detailing of the Rufford’s and Grove’s. ONETrueSaxon tread their own path.

Spring Summer ‘12 sees Denim as well as footwear back at the forefront of the collection with new spins on tra‑ditional Saxon “prime cuts” ‑ running alongside shirting and knitwear with all the detailing and refinement in fabrics and trims you expect from the Casual Tailor.

The adopted ONETrueSaxon motto has never been truer, taken from ‘Modern Manners and Casual Forms’, 1889): “Don’t dress like a dude or a swell; ... nor cock your hat on one side, nor tip it back on your head (let it sit straight and square), nor wear anything conspi‑ cuous or that will make you offensive to others”. You have to make choices in life, are you someone who’s interested in fashion or someone who’s interested in clothing? Fashion is transient, style is timeless.

THE CASUAL TAILOR

OneTrueSaxon

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108.

Making a perfect shirt is a work of precision. Oscar of Sweden’s tailors, de‑signers and engineers share a mutual task: Creating the perfect shirt.

Oscar of Sweden is a family owned business. Founded in 1949, it was initial‑ly run from a small basement by owners and siblings Per and Eva Åhman, who had started out early, pressing collars and cutting threads under their father’s watch. They soon learned the necessity of putting consideration and thought into each step of their work.

With focus on only shirts, Oscar of Sweden gradually grew larger over the years. Today, the Oscar of Sweden shirts are designed and developed in Borås, Sweden while production is placed in Poland.

It is about the passion for shirts elaborate enough to be worn at the Nobel Prize banquet, simply remark‑able shirts that make you stand out. To create that kind of a shirt requires a lot of thought. Not a single detail can be left to chance. The Oscar of Sweden team has continuously been searching for new angles and points of view, trave‑ling the world to find inspiration, while constantly working on perfecting their art of shirtmaking.

The Oscar of Sweden shirt range is divided into three labels: Non‑Iron, Two‑Fold and Casual. Within each of these three labels, they offer three different cuts: slim, fitted and casual. Classy shirts that make the wearer look extraordinary in ordinary life.

ONLY SHIRTS SINCE 1949

Oscar of Sweden

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110.

The Pace Jeans brand was founded in 2003, focusing on genuine high quality denims and the most exclusive washes. The first collection was launched in spring 2004. The creators are a Scan‑dinavian group of people addicted to authentic denim and jeans culture. The collections are limited, and based on lifestyle rather than fashion or season. Each collection contains both a men’s and women’s line.

The original jeans heritage for PACE reaches all the way back to Joakim Bonér’s and Klas Erixon’s Grandpa Eric, who had left the poor Swedish countryside in order to pursue his gold mining dreams in the mines of Telluride, Colorado. Grandpa Eric was wearing denim, as this was the gold miners’ uni‑form, and Joakim and Klas admire the dedication of their ancestor who didn’t return to Sweden before he had his pockets full of gold.

Another influence for PACE are early 50ies movie and music heroes from this era representing rebellion, youth fash‑ion, creativity and positive thinking. Inspiration for the PACE back pocket stitching comes from the side trim of a 1956 Ford.

The PACE collections are divided into the PACE Premium and the PACE Jeans line: The PACE Jeans line is the more available and contemporary range, in‑spired by the 50ies till today’s style and consisting of high quality denim Made in Italy. It features denims and a com‑prehensive top collection as well as clas‑sics such as denim jackets and shirts.

The PACE Premium line is limited, its style beyond fashion or seasons. PACE Premium is made from Japanese dry denim of the highest quality, with authentic fits inspired by the 50ies as well as the goldmining days of the mid 1800s.

HONOURING THE PAST

PACe Jeans

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112.

Founded in Leicester, UK in 1937 Pantherella, originally named Midland Hosiery Mills and established as a ladies’ hosiery factory, has always been at the forefront of development.

At a time when its competitors were churning out bulky, bland men’s socks, Pantherella’s founder Louis Goldschmidt saw the great potential for producing lighter weight products for men. He persuaded local machine makers P.A. Bentley to make a special sock machine, and soon Pantherella speedily transi‑tioned from a small provincial manufac‑turer to an international success story.

Since 2001 Pantherella has become part of the H.J. Hall family, a fellow British hosiery company with over 125 years of sock making history. Halls/Pantherella are now in their fifth gen‑eration of sock manufacturing and have

fully embraced the values and principles of the Pantherella brand: From day one, Louis Goldschmidt realised that seam‑less products were the future, be it the fully fashioned socks on the very first Bentley machines, to the ultimate hand linked toe seam that Pantherella is fa‑mous for.

These fine English socks are made of sumptuous cashmere, elegant superfine Merino wool and exquisite Sea Island cotton.

Louis Goldschmidt’s philosophy of Quality, Variety, Value for Money is maintained to this day by the dedicated and skilled Pantherella workforce. The factory still manufactures exclusively from its original factory in Leicester, with generations of employees contrib‑uting to the unique make‑up and heritage of the brand.

FINE ENGLISH SOCKS

Pantherella

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114.

Penfield was established in 1975 in Massachusetts and has built a reputation for making the highest quality down‑filled jackets and outerwear.

Penfield garments are designed to stand up to the demands of the New England climate, yet are equally at home sheltering you from the storm, anywhere wind blows or rain falls!

These garments are made by people who know and love the outdoors, and

Penfield is always committed to bring‑ing you the best of fashion, function, practicality and durability in every design they manufacture.

Penfield works constantly to improve and develop new fabric and garment innovations to keep you warm and comfortable in the most varied and extreme conditions.

Whatever the situation calls for, there is a perfect Penfield for every need.

FOR LIFE IN THE OPEN.

Penfield

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116.

Preventi is a community of “great people with better ideas”. Inspired by contemporary craftsmanship, the Spanish Preventi brand produces a mix of everyday accessories designed for genuine people who love fashion and to play with it.

Preventi adds individuality, it’s the individual feature that transforms a look into a genuine and personal style. The versatile Spanish brand pays tribute to the craft know‑how, an ode to time and aging nobly that serves as inspiration for The Global Nomads Project.

Products highlights are “In his shoes”: Preventi presents the S/S 12 Collection that explores the thin line that goes from his wardrobe to hers: Inspired by him, designed for her.

Another highlight: “Preventi walks the talk!”: Since January 2011 Preventi supports the creative talent of video‑artists from all over the world. TED Talker Mike Matas, Photographer and

artist Oskar Alegria, Simon Jacomet (Zaï Skis) and Sam O’Hare have already participated, their contributions are on‑line at preventishoes.com.

Preventi shoes are crafted by skilled artisans who take the time to make sure each pair lasts and becomes part of a genuine and personal dressing style. The production methods are elaborate: for example the “Felice Limosani” models are Goodyear welted, and come in coloured, double‑faced suede, with peened Italian leather soles, machine washed, naturally dried and hand fin‑ished.

The Preventi “tinto in capo” models are traditional and understated, but with a dapper twist: Machine washed, naturally dried and hand finished.

With their high quality materials and production techniques, and a design that adapts perfectly to the anatomy of the foot, Preventi shoes are made to grow old with you.

FOR GLOBAL NOMADS

Preventi

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118.

Valverde del Camino in Andalusia, Spain has been an old silver mining district for centuries already, its name derived from its green fields and its proximity to the “Silver Street”. Since the 19th century, the “banquilleros” of Valverde traditionally produce robust, resistant boots and shoes for hard work in the fields, the mountains or in the silver mine.

In 1989, the company Valverdeña del Calzado S.L. created the Primeboots brand in Valverde. The Primeboots are still hand‑crafted in the traditional Valverde style in two stages: first, the

shaft, insole and leather welt are stitched together by the Goodyear seam. The second step in the production: welt and outsole are stitched together using the welt seam. This production process unites breathability and adaptation in a perfect fit.

Mens and womens Primeboots come in BikerUrban, Engineer, Western, Ranch Work, and Mountain‑Adventure lines. They all share the high‑quality hand made manufacturing and the classic, timeless look that is typical for Prime‑boots.

VALVERDE CLASSICS

Primeboots

K R O N E e s t . 1 9 8 4

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120.

Prps, short for purpose, was created in 2003 by Founder and Creative Direc‑tor Donwan Harrell. With authenticity as the first priority, Prps is designed to be worn and utilised more than to be just fashion.

In the pursuit of delivering perfect garments to the most discerning den‑im enthusiast, no detail is overlooked, each item in the collection is conceived with a specific purpose and function in mind: Every rivet placed and every button added demonstrates Prps’s im‑maculate attention to detail, with five different fly buttons to an array of pocket bag linings, Prps can assure

that their denim collection is set apart from the rest.

The distressing and ageing process and signs of a well‑used jean validates the richness and quality of that par‑ticular garment. “Breaking in” a jean does not represent deterioration, but the contrary – it is what Prps strives to attain.

It is the visual result that jean enthu‑siasts so admire – a jean which looks “bruised but never broken”.

Prps uses African Cotton combined with expert Japanese construction to create what they believe to be the finest product available.

BRUISED BUT NEVER

BROKEN

Prps

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122.

New York based luxury denim brand Prps is gearing up to launch their first Prps Goods & Co. collection for Autumn/ Winter 2011.

The collection will be an aesthetic reflection of the personality behind the brand and encompass an early American outdoor lifestyle. Based on the history of the brand, the offer will have a strong denim foundation and will be paired with meticulously made items, making it one of the most anticipated launches in the market. Prps Goods & Co. will stay true to the brand’s legacy and of‑

fer garments made with an exquisite selection of Japanese pieced goods and finished with elaborate detailing.

Prps Goods & Co. is designed and crafted with supreme quality.

While each garment is reminiscent of authentic vintage inspiration, the collection will offer a complete brand experience, which is relevant to today’s desire for functional, purposeful and innovative clothing.

The collection will be accessible and affordable without ever sacrificing the ethos of the brand.

FUNCTIONAL,

PURPOSEFUL, INNOVATIVE

Prps Goods & Co

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124.

Made in Maine is more than a geo‑graphical statement. It’s an embrace of the Quoddy heritage. The building that houses their shop has contained shoe companies since the 1800s. Lewiston, Maine, was the handsewn footwear cap‑ital of the world, home to many brands that employed thousands of shoemak‑ers. Those brands have left town for the most part, but many of the shoemakers have not. These talented people craft Quoddy footwear today.

Craftsmanship has many aspects, but there is one that is the most essential: pride. Because the people of Quoddy are so “hands on” in the making of the shoes,

and each shoe is a singular reflection of their skill and experience as a shoemaker (a profession that often goes back many generations in their family), they can’t help but take a tremendous amount of pride in what they make. This is the foundation of the Quoddy company and its brand.

For Spring/Summer 2012, the new Quoddy Boat Moc and the Quoddy Canoe Moc will be available. Both feature high‑est quality U.S. leathers, and both have 100% handsewn Vibram® soles that de‑liver traction, comfort and durability with a sleek, outstanding handcrafted quality.

OUTSTANDING

CRAFTSMANSHIP

Quoddy

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126.

Born in 1908 on a farm in South Australia, Reginald Murray Williams crossed the Australian central western deserts while working as a camel boy for a missionary. During their trips, he learned valuable bush lore and survival skills from the aboriginal people and stockman skills from the stockmen of the desert fringe cattle stations. But it was meeting an itinerant saddler named Dollar Mick, who taught him the skills in leather working and crafting, that marked the true beginning of young R.M. Williams’ life’s work.

He set up his first small shoe factory in 1932, and over the following decades, the company grew rapidly, diversifying, apart from boots, into bush saddlery, equipment, moleskins, jeans and bush shirts: R.M. Williams became the bush

outfitter, supplying everything essen‑tial to Australian life. The first R.M. Williams stores opened in 1978.

Today, the oil‑impregnated riding, work and elastic boots are the back‑bone of the R.M. Williams business.

For their boots, only the best leath‑ers are used, such as cowhide, “willow” (chrome tanned oxhide), yearling, and suede leather, just to name a few. Un‑dergoing 80 handheld processes, each R.M. Williams boot is comfortable, supple, and easily moulds to the foot. These high‑quality, strong and durable boots feature welt soles with 21 defined features, and vegetable‑tanned leather insoles. The uppers of the R.M. Williams boots are made from only one piece of leather, thereby producing the typical clean and classic lines.

AUSTRALIAN BOOTS

SINCE 1932

R.M. Williams

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128.

Committed to the basic principles of style, quality, craftsmanship and com‑fort, Red Wing Shoes continues to stay true to the original idea of Charles Beckman who established the brand in 1905. Sold in more than 100 countries, the Red Wing Shoes Lifestyle Collec‑tions have become popular across the globe. The Red Wing leather is the signature component that has also re‑mained unchanged over the century: crafted into a perfectly finished piece, this leather possesses a natural beauty and unmatched durability.

The company is still based in Red Wing, Minnesota, where it offers a unique

blend of quality, tradition and American style. The Red Wing product lines range from functional boots that have been the staple of skilled workers for the past century, to fashion footwear based on classic American styles.

The Heritage Work Collection is the best‑selling line of Red Wing Shoes. Originally made to withstand the rigors of hard work and the brutality of harsh weather, this footwear earned its name on the farms and in the prairies of America’s heartland.

These true American classics feature the highest quality materials and sig‑nature Red Wing leathers.

AMERICAN CLASSICS

PROUD OF ITS HERITAGE

Red Wing Shoes

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130.

Founded in 2007 on an insight by Christophe Verot, Robinson Les Bain is specialized in beachwear, mixing ele‑gance and fashion; Robinson Les Bains is the only swimsuit brand offering a complete line of swimwear, from mini‑briefs to long board shorts.

The brand name was inspired by Daniel Defoe’s hero Robinson Crusoe and the implication in terms of self‑affirmation and self‑esteem; it suggests the idea of isolated beaches and of adventure. “Les Bains” evokes the glorious times of the old‑fashioned Spa Resorts and the French way of life.

The Spring‑Summer 2012 collection is inspired by the French Riviera and Monte Carlo, the TV Drama ”The Per‑suaders” and the famous 1960 movie “Plein Soleil” with Alain Delon. Not a postcard image, but evoking the con‑trast between the beauty of the seaside and the intense urbanization. Robinson

Les Bains’ products are characterized by high‑quality fabrics from Italy and France; the range of colours, the pat‑terns and the prints are completely re‑invented every season. Very special care is given to the sewing process as well as to the production that is entirely Made in Europe. This S/S 12 will mark the fifth anniversary of the brand.

The original Robinson Les Bains tar‑tan has been reinterpreted in a rather sophisticated way while the colour pat‑tern has been inspired by the typical ceramics of Vallauris at the French Riviera. The best‑selling model “Oxford” is proposed in 20 different versions; a newly reinterpreted retro‑look Oxford model with independent belt can be used as tennis short as well as swimsuit. After a successful launch, special atten‑tion has been given to the “after beach” line and to the accessories which com‑plete Robinson Les Bains’ universe.

SOPHISTICATED

RETRO

Robinson Les Bains

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Copyright © Christian Lartillot

132.

Salvatore Piccolo is a high quality, traditional shirt manufactory from Naples, Italy.

The Spring/Summer 2012 collection of Salvatore Piccolo is based on par‑ticularly classic elements with fabrics and fittings that are very modern and researched.

For this new collection, Salvatore Piccolo proposes a new shirt that he identifies as “the old work American shirt”.

Salvatore Piccolo likes to propose this kind of shirt also with other ma‑dras shirts, matching them to suits

and jackets of old cotton and canapé fabrics.

For S/S 12, he has created a selection of 15 shirts with personalized fabrics. Inspiration for the colours and pat‑terns were old books about Japanese Kimonos.

Besides these Japanese fabrics, Sal‑vatore proposes a selection of classic personalized and exclusive fabrics, re‑fined with special washings that give them a more “lived” aspect.

Furthermore, Salvatore offers a series of classic and vintage scarves and ties matching the beautiful shirts.

SOPHISTICATED

VINTAGE EXPRESSION

Salvatore Piccolo

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134.

Sanders & Sanders Ltd. was estab‑lished in 1873 by the brothers William and Thomas Sanders in Rushden, North‑ amptonshire ‑ an area known today as the very heart of fine English shoe making.

The vision of the two Sanders brothers was simple: offer outstanding footwear to discerning customers. To do so, they employed five of the best local crafts‑men, selected the finest English hides, the very best local oak‑bark tanned soles and began to make gentlemen’s shoes and boots. This vision has since been passed

down from father to son. Currently, Sanders & Sanders is in the fifth gen‑eration of family business, with the commitment to quality remaining un‑changed in nearly 140 years of shoe making.

Sanders & Sanders now employ over one hundred craftsman, using both traditional skill‑sets and the best in modern production methods. Sanders ‑ for outstanding quality in gentlemen’s boots and shoes.

OVER A CENTURY OF

EXCELLENCE

Sanders

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136.

Nearly a century ago in 1913, back when the world was still in black and white and sounded kinda tinny, two brothers in a little shop on New York’s Lower East Side started a simple jacket company that would become an icon of American culture.

Their mantra was simple: forget the trends, ignore fickle fashions, just make the best damn product possible. The next hundred years proved to be a doozy, and as America marched on, through two World Wars, the rise of cinema, and birth of Rock n’ Roll, America did so wearing Schott, with quality, individuality and innovation infused in every jacket.

Schott NYC’s 2011 collection harks

back to a simpler time when deals were done with a handshake and a smile.

Motorcycle jackets have been treated with an aging process that treats both the leather and the entire jacket once it is constructed to give it a worn‑in look and feel, bypassing years of wear and tear required for achieving that perfect appearance. Military bomber jackets, duffle coats and peacoats have all been carefully selected from Schott’s extensive archives.

What makes a Schott jacket isn’t just a cut or style that was once popular some decades ago, it’s the jacket’s own heritage, a character that only comes from years of refinement and a lifetime of ingenuity.

AMERICAN ICON

Schott nYC

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138.

The Shabbies Amsterdam line, suc‑cessful constant in the Fred de la Bretonière range, was introduced in 2005 and has today become a well‑rec‑ ognised brand with a great variety of styles, including a whole range of high quality bags and belts ‑ all featuring the typical rugged look.

The very first model of the Shabbies Amsterdam line was a rugged boot with

a slim rubber sole and stylish cut‑off shaft. Its classic and simple design has remained unchanged over the years, and has lost nothing of its popularity.

For the Summer 2012 collection Shabbies Amsterdam will come with a new Shabbies sandal line in tough ma‑terials. The new collection will even show new white and transparent soles. For every sole a soul!

AUTHENTIC & PURE

Shabbies Amsterdam

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140.

Slazenger Heritage pays homage to the Slazenger brand, its history and back catalogue, drawing on its past to inspire its future.

The British Slazenger brand was es-tablished in 1881 but its roots can be traced back to the early 1800’s.

It has a sporting heritage that is second to none and is renowned for being at the forefront of sporting development, having been involved in many of today’s popular sports.

In 1902, Slazenger became the official sponsor and ball supplier of Wimbledon- this has become the longest sponsorship in sporting history.

Slazenger have also manufactured a diverse portfolio of clothing and equip-ment for golf, cricket, badminton, table tennis, squash, racquet ball, hock-ey, archery, target shooting, bowls, sail-ing, motor racing and for the military. The S/S 12 Slazenger Heritage range

takes inspiration from croquet, a sport which Slazenger has been involved in since the 1800’s, having been a man-ufacturer of fine croquet sets. The collection features crest detailing and the colour palette corresponds with those found on croquet balls. The S/S 12 collection plans to bring this previously elitist sport back into the mainstream to coincide with the 2012 Olympics, hosted by Slazenger’s original homeland: England.

Also included for S/S 12 are two of Slazenger Heritage’s strongest pieces - the Norton biker jacket collaboration and the unique Ruck Jacket. The biker jacket is inspired by the Slazenger spon-sored Norton works team and features an original 50’s logo and elbow patch detailing. The Ruck Jacket is a one of a kind piece designed with enough stor-age compartments for a weekend away without a suitcase.

GREAT SPORTING

HISTORY

Slazenger Heritage

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Heritage Gold

142.

Originally founded by William H. Kaufman Inc. in Kitchener, Canada, Sorel has long been associated with the development of durable, comfortable, cold-weather footwear.

Launched in 1962, the Sorel line was the first to combine leather uppers, handcrafted vulcanized rubber shells and removable felt liners with iconic styles such as the Caribou and Pac boots. While the brand’s Caribou style remains a winter classic, Sorel now offers an exciting range of comfort-able, luxurious, fashionable year-round

products that merge high-quality materials with outstanding design to produce durable, fashionable warmth.Sorel believes in taking risks and put-ting yourself out there. Whether it’s in the Arctic, on a mountain or in down-town Manhattan, Sorel has always stood for boldly going beyond the comfort zone. We have always been taken to un- chartered territory. It’s this spirit of adventure and fearlessness that guides us today.

When you are fearlessly fabulous, you are impossible to ignore.

FOR THE FEARLESS

Sorel

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144.

In 1865, John B. Stetson fashioned the hat that would become the symbol of American independence, integrity and strength. Today everything that carries the Stetson brand, from au-thentic Westernwear to rugged Action- wear to contemporary Streetwear and timeless classics, stays true to these American values: Make things right and the best they can be.

Safaris form the heart of the Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Discover new animal habitats, delve into foreign cul-tures, imagine life in the glistening sun on the hot continent of Africa- Stetson interprets the “safari” inspiration and imagined African scenes into new styles. The designs, materials and colors reflect the safari environment: sun-bleached, rugged, airy and light.

Stetson offers vintage-washed cotton, dusty-like looks in cotton-viscose, an-tique goat leather, straw raffia in au-

thentic beige, khaki, olive coloration and various earth tones. Safari also means the need for protection from the sun and dust: cotton with UV protection, hand-made goggles, long visor caps, neck protector caps and sun helmets complement outdoor forms and bucket hats with broad rims.

Distinctive shapes like Fedora, Trilby, Hatteras and additional Ivy caps, uni-form caps as well as field service caps are part of the safari collection. Signa-ture design detail of the safari collec-tion: the metal button with an embossed elephant and the compass hang tag.

Also in the classic segment, Stetson continues to pioneer new paths with innovative designs and materials, e.g. filigree Panama qualities in extraordi-nary weave patterns, ultra-light Torcido panamas, jersey and cotton knit, fine goat and lamb leathers and wool seer-sucker.

Stetson

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SAFARI COLLECTION

146.

Stockman is the French creator of busts, dummies and accessories stands with a tradition reaching back as far as 1867, when Fredric Stockman was the first to think it should be possible to standardize the shapes of the human body, and so he categorized the sizes in cloth: 8, 10, 12,… and more.

Back then, at a time when only the rich had their tailors and dressmakers, Stockman was a precursor in believing in the burgeoning democratization of clothes and, together with his associ-ate and designer Siegel, he started to manufacture busts and dummies to be used in the ready-to wear trade and

by couturiers. Today, Stockman is the supplier of the most important fashion brands, with a worldwide reputation for producing the most beautiful busts and dummies.

Most of the Stockman products, such as dressforms, mannequins, accesso-ries stands, are handmade in Paris. July 2011 is the 6th season that Stockman participates at B&B.

This year, new products like new metal bases, new fabrics and new ac-cessories stands are introduced, all of them representing the Stockman phi-losophy of French tradition, French savoir faire and French spirit.

Stockman

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FRENCH SAVOIR FAIRE

148.

the last conspiracy was founded in 2010 in Copenhagen, Denmark, by the principle of being made to meet the highest standards of fine shoemaking.

The brand is a joint venture of fine shoemakers and their friends, with more than 35 years of experience in producing handcrafted shoes.

the last conspiracy seek ultimate quality, and aim at finding unique influ-ences and passions from creative souls all over the world. Inspiration for their shoes is a well-balanced mix of “the unique, the past, the future, fine hand-

made craftsmanship, Goodyear welted methods, premium materials and their very own twist”.

the last conspiracy shoes uphold a standard established by generations of renowned craftsmen, and are “Made with pride in Portugal”.

“Connoisseur” is a special collection in the last conspiracy range, a tribute to the hard-working craftsmen in their factories.

All shoes are Goodyear-welted, with triple-layered soles and specially selected leathers for the shoes.

HIGH STANDARDS

the last conspiracy

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150.

In Alaró, Mallorca every pair of Tony Mora boots is handmade by skilled Ma-jorcan shoemakers since 1918, each model a recognisable original. The man who gave his name to the brand is An-tonio Mora, a Majorcan shoe dealer. He began trading in western boots, which his father, a traditional Majorcan shoe-maker, had produced experimentally. They proved to be a market success and a family business was born.

Up to this day, the manufactory has stayed true to its tradition: The major-ity of the boot makers have been with the company for more than 25 years; many of the instruments and machines have been in use for 80 years. Before a skilled worker retires, he passes on his knowledge to his successor. Every pair of boots requires 100 handcrafted steps. Modern leather-cutting machines pro-vide perfectly-fitting puzzle parts. The soles are made strictly by the Goodyear method, stitched twice and cramped.

They are filled with cork balls: Even when the exterior stitching becomes worn after many years, the sole maintains stable thanks to the inner stitching.

Another quality feature of Tony Mora is the composition of a separate inner and exterior leather layer, providing a breathable surrounding for the feet. This also has thermal benefits: feet re-main cool in midsummer and warm in winter, because the inner leather skin absorbs the body heat.

Tony Mora exclusively uses 100% natural materials of the best quality - all skins and leathers come from certi-fied animals farms to ensure a strictly controlled, sustainable production that protects nature and animals.

Customers can choose from a great variety of materials to assemble their own individual pair of these beautiful boots! Today the brand has an excellent market position in the “Cowboy Fashion” segment.

WHEN TRADITION

MEETS FASHION

Tony Mora

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152.

Season by season, Tricker’s supplies everyday heroes that are keeping pace with tradition and believe in the myth of “British beach wear heritage”. The Tricker’s “beach wear shoe collection” keeps away sunburn from your feet whether you’re exposed to the sun in Brighton, Scarborough, Folkestone, Whitby, the Channel Islands, the Lake District or on the coasts of Cornwall.

Tricker’s, founded in 1829 by the master shoemaker Joseph Tricker, is one of the oldest family run shoe busi-nesses in the United Kingdom. Today the fifth generation of his family still manages to apply the same traditional crafts in the production of the Tricker’s shoes.

Originally coming from a back-ground of boot making for army and country purposes, the boot production

is still the backbone of the factory. Tricker’s holds the Royal warrant: “By Appointment To His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales Shoe Manufactur-ers”, and has since the seventies be-come popular among musicians as well, turning Tricker’s into the boot maker for kings, pop- and punk stars alike.

For over 180 years now, all Tricker’s shoes have been hand made in St. Mi-chael’s Road in Northampton. It is here that Tricker’s craftsmen apply their legendary skills to produce both hand-made and bench-made shoes which maintain a standard seldom equalled in the world of Goodyear welted footwear. They use only the best available mate-rials, including calf upper leather and oak bark tanned soles to produce their boots, fine dress- and street footwear.

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BRITISH BEACH WEAR

COLLECTION

Tricker's

154.

TST Footwear is designed by the esteemed footwear designer Seisi Tanaka. The shoes incorporate the pu-rity of both manufacturing and design philosophy of this Japanese shoemaker.

The shoes have inspired many other designers over the years, as Tanaka captures the artisanal essence of vintage craftsmanship with superb uncompromising materials.

His shoes feature horse leather on the upper, cow leather in the trims and soles, and cabretta leather in the in-soles, finished with linen lining for the precise scientific behaviour of these

natural components. Tanaka’s inspira-tion comes from his life experiences combined with his technical knowledge of shoe making.

As a teenager, he completed a schol-ar-ship studying golf at North Carolina University in the USA.

He then returned to Japan at the age of twenty-four to work for his family shoe making business. Since branch-ing out on his own, Tanaka has worked with leading basketball companies de-signing technical footwear, and has collaborated with fashion brands of the highest level.

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THE ESSENCE OF

VINTAGE CRAFTMANSHIP

TST

156.

Viberg’s story began in Canada in 1914, the country where Ed Viberg emi-grated from Sweden with his parents and sisters. At the age of twenty his great renown as a saddle maker started to spread about the prairies, so much so that in 1930 Viberg decided to move to Shellbrook, Saskatchewan, to start his saddle and boot firm. Ed and his wife Gladys worked hard throughout the years of the Great Depression, and were by then famous as makers of saddlers and resistant high quality work boots.

In 1970 their son Glen joined the firm, which had meanwhile moved to Victoria B.C.. The father-son partnership soon led the creation of new models of soles, like those used by woodcutters provided with easily removable and changeable screw-in-caulks.

At the end of 1971 Viberg started to manufacture the first boots provided with removable caulks (until then scre-

wed to the sole), which immediately en-riched the equipment of woodcutters.

Throughout the 80’s and 90’s Viberg began expanding their line of boots from work, into more recreational uses, with motorcycle and hiking boots.

Viberg uses two methods of boot construction, Nailed down, and Stitch down. Nailed down construction is used for logging and heavy work boots. It is one of the pioneers to boot making, a timeless method. Stitchdown construc-tion is used on all of the Viberg street collection, and it allows for a more flex-ible and comfortable fit.

Both types of construction are very durable and strong, allowing for years of use, with proper care and resoling. Viberg is one of the last boot companies who use all brass nails and tacks, which don’t allow the leather to rot when wet. From start to finish it takes 218 steps, all by hand to create a Viberg boot.

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MADE STRONGER,

TO LAST LONGER

Viberg Boot

158.

In 1995 in a local pub in NYC Johan chats with a former U.S. Air Force com-bat pilot who had been rescued from a river in a bailout mission in the Rocky Mountains on high altitude during a blizzard. According to him, the jacket he was wearing saved his life because of its insulation called Lamilite.

This material is developed in Colorado by Wiggy’s Inc., a producer of outdoor garments and sleeping bags designed for extreme conditions. What sets La-milite apart from other insulations is the fact that every fiber is silicone treated which gives the Lamilite two unique qualifications: first, the fibers are ex-tremely water repellent which gives you an insulation that will keep you warm even if water penetrates its shell fabric. Second, the silicone treatment makes the Lamilite antistatic.

The superior performance and quality of the Lamilite insulated Wiggy’s prod-

ucts have been celebrated among both outdoor users and the U.S. Military and have made them the choice for the U.S. Air Force, the U.S. Navy, and the Alaska State Troopers for several years. The Wiggy’s sleeping bags are used as part of the Air Force and Navy survival kit, since they can be compressed to a minimum size but still regain their original loft.

The pilot’s story left a big impression on Johan and as a consequence he later launched the Wiggy’s Global Inc. project in 2007, producing a lifestyle collection of warm winter jackets based on the unique insulation. Johan’s partner is Mr. Wigutow, the founder of Wiggy’s Inc. and producer of Lamilite. The inspiration for the collection is drawn from the world where the insulation has been used be-fore; the U.S. Military and as work wear in the cold temperatures on the North American continent.

FINEST

OUTDOOR GEAR

Wiggy’s

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GLOBAL INC.

160.

windsor. When a natural sense of style and clarity of perception lead to the same confident conclusion.

Everyone knows that perfect moment feeling: having an inspiring conver-sation, a successful idea, being with the ones you love, coming home.

The world of windsor. is about exactly this kind of moments. It is the windsor. philosophy not to be fashion, but style – a value, a principle that has always been far removed from ephemeral trends.

windsor. translates the spirit of the times into tailoring perfection. The unmistakeable character of the brand includes sure style, tradition and quality. The windsor. style is a wonderful and generous invitation to individuality, leaving snobbery to those who need it:

an exercise in confident, unconventional understatement for those who expect the same ease of movement in the cloth-ing they wear as with the ease that carries them through life.

The windsor. spirit is refreshing and casual, but of lucid elegance.

Having internalised the knowledge that apparel must not be only a visual sensation but also a sensuous pleasure, the windsor. collections captivate with the elegant ease of their premium Italian fabrics and their distinctive cuts, rounded off by confident tailoring perfection and craftsmanship.

windsor. crafts tomorrows design for people who live today, for those who do not need a mirror to see that they ve arrived.

windsor.

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FOR THE

PERFECT MOMENT

162.

Leicester, England in 1755: Henry and Ann Wood began their enterprise cre-ating hosiery and stockings on a frame knitting machine in their cottage. That business survives to this day as Wolsey, one of the oldest existing clothing makers in the world.

From such humble beginnings, a rep-utation for quality and craftsmanship was born and, embracing the industrial revolution, Wolsey became a major brand in knitted garments of all kinds.

They also developed ‘unshrinkable wool’, a technological advancement in the early 20th Century way ahead of its competitors.

The Wolsey Expedition key pieces are inspired by legendary British ex-plorer Captain Robert Falcon Scott and his team, who wore Wolsey clothing

and essential undergarments for their “Terra Nova” expedition to the South Pole (1910-1913).

In a letter from the Wolsey archives, dated 23rd January 1911, Captain Scott wrote: “I have much pleasure in inform-ing you that the Wolsey Woollen Goods supplied to this Expedition by you have been highly satisfactory. The materials are excellent for our purpose, and I am very grateful for this careful attention you have paid to all the details.”

Very little has changed. In the Wolsey Expedition line, detail is still king and, talking of kings, by Royal appointment, Wolsey’s first Royal Warrant was awarded by his Majesty King George V back in 1935; a royal stamp of approval fit for a brand built into the very fabric of British history.

THE FABRIC

OF BRITISH HISTORY

Wolsey

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164.

In 1883, G.A. Krause founded the Hirth-Krause Company in Rockford, Michigan. Krause was a third gen-eration leather tanner and boot maker who prided himself on creating finely tanned leathers which in turn created comfortable and durable footwear. Inspired by hard-working men of the time, the company would soon innovate the industry.

Krause’s best selling model was the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe. The first of its kind, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe was created in a time when men were look-ing for authentic craftsmanship and footwear that would last. Crafted from a special tanning process using shell horsehide, the 1000 Mile Shoe offered superior comfort and durability.

Advertised as comfortable enough to “give you 1,000 miles of wear,” the shoe

became a wardrobe staple for men of the 20th century.

The ideals and practices of Wolverine as a brand have remained the same since its inception. Paying homage to the company’s beginnings, the 1000 Mile Collection is based on original designs from the Wolverine archives. Composed of four key collections, the cornerstone Original collection includ-ing the 1000 Mile Boot, the Gentlemen Collection inspired by original work-ingman designs from the 1930s and 1940s, the Garrison Collection inspired by work and military boot design and the Gentry collection that showcases Wolverines history of creating high-end boots for the outdoorsmen, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection contin-ues Wolverine’s century-long heritage of providing comfort and durability.

Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection

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DURABILITY AND COMFORT

SINCE 1883

166.

In 1830, English immigrant John Rich established his first woolen mill in Plum Run, PA, selling his woolen fabric, socks, coverlets, and yarn from a mule cart. By 1845, he built a new mill up the road, a place that has today become Woolrich, PA. Rich could certainly not have imagined his little woolen mill’s de-velopment, experiencing the Civil War, thriving during Industrial Revolution, surviving the Great Depression, WW I and II, and seeing the end of the Cold War; the name Woolrich becoming syn-onymous with quality outdoor clothing.

In 1972, the Original Arctic Parka was introduced and became the down parka par excellence, initially chosen by the workers on the construction of Alaskan oil pipes. With the passing of years, the Arctic Parka became increasingly popular throughout the world. Inspi-ration for SS12 is Ernest Hemingway.

Born in the Midwest, Hemingway de-veloped a love for the outdoors, hunting and fishing that he kept even as a cos-mopolitan intellectual.

SS12 explores the contrast between life in the Midwest and the interna-tional experience of a clash of radically diverse cultures during WWII:

The “Northern Michigan” concept is inspired by the Hemingway family’s summer cabin in Petoskey, MI - an area for hunters and fishers with a lake cul-ture of boating and canoeing.

The “South Pacific” concept is inspired by the South Pacific US army locations in WWII. Hemingway spent time in WWII as a dedicated journalist. “South Pacific” is based on the aboriginal tex-tiles of that area: he traditions of handcrafted indigo printing, banshu, ikat and batik of Japan, Bali, Borneo and Indonesia.

ORIGINAL

OUTDOOR CLOTHING

Woolrich

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168.

By combining fashion, music and his-tory, the goal of Worn Free is to re-create the coolest T-shirts of all time.

With over 10 years of photographic research, they build each collection by working with some of recent history’s finest photographers.

Like vintage picker heaven, they trawl through the private archives of the photographers to find inspiring shots of

pop culture icons wearing interesting graphic prints. Worn Free then seeks approval from the artists to bring you a super-soft licensed vintage product made in California. Each shirt features a photographic backstage pass of the artist wearing the garment. The latest Worn Free collection features artists like Debbie Harry, Frank Zappa, John Lennon and Alice Cooper.

THE COOLEST T-SHIRTS

OF ALL TIME

Worn Free

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NOTES

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NOTES

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BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN

SEE YOU IN wINTER 2012!

L.O.C.k.

LABELS OF COMMON kIN

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www.breadandbutter.com/lock

Documents

L.O.C.K. Book 4