LED Replacement Fluorescent Tube

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    LED Replacement Fluorescent Tubeby computerwiz_222 on August 22, 2009

    Table of Contents

    LED Replacement Fluorescent Tube ...............................................................................................

    Intro: LED Replacement Fluorescent Tube ........................................................................................

    Step 1: Materials Required ...................................................................................................

    Step 2: Cut and Mark .......................................................................................................

    Step 3: Drill ...............................................................................................................

    Step 4: Mount LEDs ........................................................................................................

    Step 5: Add Resistors and Power Rails ..........................................................................................

    Step 6: Create a Bi-Pin Connector ..............................................................................................

    Step 7: Build the Current Regulator and Bi-Pin Connectors ...........................................................................

    Step 8: Variation: DC Socket instead of Bi-Pin .....................................................................................

    Related Instructables ........................................................................................................

    Comments ................................................................................................................

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    Intro: LED Replacement Fluorescent TubeIn this instructable, I wil l try and outline all of the steps required to create an LED fluorescent replacement tube. This instructable is provided more as a guideline, you change almost anything in here to suit your needs. The lamp I created contained 87 LEDs, and this guide provides instructions for that many. This instructable containthe information on how to build a lamp, but there is too much information about how it works to include here.

    The approximate cost is $25.00 per lamp.

    If you would like more information than this instructable can provide, check out the website for this project. http://led.hypertriangle.com

    When I finished this project, I was very satisfied with the results. The light produced from 87 LEDs is very usable. You can see graphs of lux if you are interested at thwebsite above.

    The best part about this project is saving energy. The 87 LED lamp uses a mere 8.4 watts! (0.7 amps @ 12VDC)

    This project was seen at the Intel International Science and Engineering Fair (IISEF) and the Bay Area Science and Engineering Fair (BASEF).

    Help us out and digg this story!

    Image Notes1. Finished lamp with a diffuser.

    Image Notes1. Finished LED Lamp without a diffuser. Looks good, but I prefer the diffuser.

    Image Notes1. Light output of this LED lamp.

    http://digg.com/design/Homemade_LED_Lampshttp://led.hypertriangle.com/
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    Step 1:Materials RequiredYou will need an array of materials for this project.

    T12 Fluorescent Tube Protector48" x 1.5" x 0.25" Plexiglass87 Super Bright White LEDs29 2.7 ohm 1/4 watt Resistors2.5m 18 AWG Bare Copper Wire20cm 14 AWG Bare Copper WireSolder/FluxLM334TIP32CZTX9481k ohm 1/4 watt Resistor

    100 ohm 1/4 watt Resistor0.2 microfarad Ceramic Capacitor

    Suggested Suppliers:

    For the LEDs, if you are building your first buib, I recommend LED Shoppe . They have sweet deals on LEDs. The only problem is that they dont carry the most efficieor recent diodes.

    For the bare copper wire, the 18 AWG can come from an old scrap of RG6 and the 14 AWG can come from Romex House Wiring.

    The tube protector comes from most hardware stores.

    Almost every other component there can be ordered from Digikey or Mouser

    Step 2:Cut and MarkA standard fluorescent tube is approximately 48 inches long and 1.5 inches wide (T12 = 12 * 1/8 inches wide). Take your sheet of plexi-glass and cut a piece that is 1.inches wide by 44 inches long. 4 inches is lef t in the tube for the current regulator and wiring in the ends. This is best done on a table saw while wearing all appropriatsafety equipment. If you do not have access to a table saw, consider using a plastic laminate scoring knife.

    You may need to adjust this step slightly to accomodate the tools you have available to you. To mark the surface of the glass, the strip of plexi-glass was clamped to adry-wall "T" as shown below. Then using a utili ty knife and a general-purpose square, the marks were created. The dry-wall "T" used had fractional-inches marked on so they were used as a guideline as to where to create the marks. The first step in marking the glass is to go across the shortest side of the plastic, marking at regularintervals widthwise. Then the marks were created lengthwise. These second lengthwise marks could be omitted if extra car is taken in the next step if you want to makyour plastic as mark-free as possible. The final product is shown below. This step is more of a general guideline. Your process will almost certainly differ. If you aremarking holes for 87 LEDs, you will be creating 29 rows. This works out to approximately 1 3/8 inches between groups if starting 1 1/2 inches from the end.

    Image Notes1. Drill where the lines cross.

    Step 3:DrillThis process is best done with a drill press. If you are creating an 87 LED bulb like the one designed, it will take approximately 20 minutes to dril l all of the holes. Grabpiece of scrap lumber and clamp it to your drill press's stage. Align it to be square to the drill press stage, and the correct distance to ensure that all of the holes drilledin the same plane and on the score marks. The ideal drill bit size to use is 3/16 inches. This size is slightly smaller than required but allows the LEDs to be mountedwithout glue. This is where you can omit the lengthwise score marks by ensuring the jig is clamped in the correct location.

    http://mouser.com/http://digikey.com/http://ledshoppe.com/
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    Image Notes1. Shavings2. Align 3 times so that the LEDs will fall in 3 long rows.

    Step 4:Mount LEDsIts now time to mount the LEDs. Grab your bag of LEDs, and insert three into a row. Ensure that the polarity is kept constant. All of the positive sides (longer lead) shobe on the same side of the plexi glass. Next using needle-nose pliers, bend the leads into a square as shown in the picture below. Next, solder the leads together. Rep

    this process for the other touching leads. The resulting soldered connection should be enough to hold the LEDs in place. Trim off any excess lead, but leave the main and (-) long as shown in the picture below.

    Image Notes1. LEDs

    Step 5:Add Resistors and Power RailsNext, grab your bag of 2.7 ohm 1/4 watt resistors. Trim one side of the resistor down to 1/4" and trim the (-) side of the LED triplet down to 1/4". Solder the two shortenleads together. Repeat until all of the LEDs triplets have a resistor. The reason this resistor is 2.7 ohms is due to the current regulation circuit. The LM334 (the maincomponent in the current regulator) has a reference voltage of 64 mV. A simple ohm's law calculation can determine this resistor value. 2.7 ohms ensures that each Lgets exactly 23.5 mA.

    Take some 18 AWG copper wire and being to solder it in place along the sides of the LEDs. Leave approximately 4 inches of extra wire on each end to work with at thend. Assuming you are starting with the positive rail, hold the copper wire against the LED's lead just slightly above the flattened area. This flattened area is a small"warning" that soldering below it can damage the LED, so try and stay above it. Now that the copper is held against this spot, fold the lead over the copper wire andsolder. If you are bulding the 87 LED model, repeat this process 29 times until all of the LED triplets have a tie to the power rail. Then repeat this process for the resistThe resistors do not have a "safety mark", so try and remain at least 1/4 inch away from the resistor when soldering. You will notice a 10 degree angle on the LEDs in cross-section. This would be an ideal design that could make the lamp usable without a diffuser. However, this angle is not a requirement. It is difficult to drill accurateangles in the plexi-glass. In the bulbs that were built, the angle was omitted and the holes were simply dri lled straight through.

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    Step 6:Create a Bi-Pin ConnectorA Bi-Pin Connector is the most common type of connector used in fluorescent lamps. The bi-pins commonly used have 12.5mm between two rigid pins. To create thesconnectors, take a piece of scrap wood and drill two holes approximately 12.5mm apart. It helps to use a drill press and digital caliper, but it can be done with a ruler ahand drill. The depth of these holes is not important, make them at least 1/2 inches deep. The holes should be 1/16 inches in diameter. Cut two 5 cm pieces of 14 AWbare copper wire. Insert the two pieces into the drilled holes. Slip the end cap from the tube protector over the two wires now stuck into the scrap wood. Twist the twoloose ends of the wire together ensuring that the other ends remain in the scrap of wood. Prepare some low-temperature melting plastic. This is usually done by simplboiling some water and pouring the granules in. Pour the molten plastic into the end cap making sure that the plastic is at least 3/8 inches deep and distr ibuted evenly

    throughout the cap. Allow the piece to cool and when the plastic is fully cooled and hard, remove it from the wood. Trim the two wires coming out of the end cap toapproximately 3/8 inches. You should now have a replica bi-pin connector that can be slipped into the end of the tube protector with no effort at all. Repeat this procescreate another end-cap. When you have two completed, mark one as positive and the other as negative using a marker.

    Image Notes1. completed connector

    Step 7:Build the Current Regulator and Bi-Pin ConnectorsBuild a current regulator as per the schematic shown below. You can design PCB artwork or build it on some proto-board. The LED mounting plate should now bepopulated with LEDs, resistors and power rails. Slide the mounting plate with all of its components into the clear tube protector. There are three terminals on the curre

    regulator: (+), (-) and a tap. Connect the loose ends of one side of the power rails to the (+) and (-) holes on the PCB ensuring that the polarity is correct. Take a shortpiece of wire of any gauge and connect it to the first LED triplet between the resistor and the (-) side of the LED. Connect the other end of this wire to the tap on the PCfor the current regulator. This is the "tap" used to regulate current. The next step is to take a short piece of 18 AWG wire and connect the positive bi-pin connector to thinput trace. Take the negative bi-pin connector and connect it to the negative power rail on the opposite end of the tube. This is the rail with the resistors installed. Trimwires to be as short as possible. The final step in creating the LED lamp is to slide everything into the tube and slip the bi-pin connectors into the ends. Ensure that theare aligned with each other.

    It is not a requirement to use bi-pin connectors. You could easily wire up a simple DC socket. to the + and negative of the circuit.

    (A new, clearer schematic is coming soon.)

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    Image Notes1. Ready to be sealed up.

    Step 8:Variation: DC Socket instead of Bi-PinYou can easily use a DC socket instead of a bi-pin connector. The pictures below explain it better than words can. Simply connect the positive and the negativeconnections in the circuit to your barrel plug.

    Image Notes1. Connect a 12V 1A power supply here.

    Image Notes1. (-)2. (+)

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    Comments

    50 comments Add Comment view all 68 commen

    chetan_m.p says: Dec 6, 2010. 4:23 AM REPwhere can i find this circuit diagram???

    jjmaia says: Nov 19, 2010. 4:01 PM REPHi there.

    How did you "difuse" the led's?

    Thanks

    hirenpanchal47 says: Aug 31, 2009. 5:41 AM REPwhy you did not use SUPER FLUX LED , Did you tested it ...? See drawing & make one tube . after use this tip you will gate more light than your tube ..

    computerwiz_222 says: Oct 16, 2009. 6:55 PM REPWhat is the advantage of using an LED pattern like this? Does it affect light scattering?

    hirenpanchal47 says: Oct 2, 2010. 12:38 AM REPYa. this will effect . you will have more light .

    Helenchina says: Dec 8, 2009. 12:05 AM REPHi, i m the new comer here, i think LED tube lights have many advantages, energy saving, usually we canuse 12W T10 120cm LED tube to replacour normal fluorescent lamp 30W, so you know its effective energy saving.second LED tube light have long lifespan, 40000 hours more, keep eyes, no noise, can work under high voltage. and there are many advantages...

    supersuper says: Jul 27, 2010. 8:22 AM REPLED tubes are all hype, and completely experimental. Not to mention expensive. They say led tubes last 40000 hours. But this is hypothetical.LEDs are very temperamental and burn out all the time. Just look at traffic lights with missing pins. They are also meant for directional light. thewhole point of a fluorescent tube is to light a space. Look at the light output in te picture above. It's a spotlight. The power supply for largeamounts of LEDs uses almost the same amount of power as one for fluorescent lighting. Modern fluorescent transformers also make no noise.LEDs are great for a lot of things: Indicator panels, traffic lights, cell phones. But they are not efficient for applications where you need to light alarge space or for advertising. Fluorescents and neon shine 360 degrees versus LEDs which are pretty much just directional light.

    Helenchina says: Sep 24, 2010. 6:19 PM REPIf you choose low quality LEDs, then the led will burn out often. before you choose the led, you need to test the led from different factories,test the leds at least two years to see if there is problems on the leds. after two years testing, you will see the led quality, if good then use, ifnot no use.....however, there is light decrease with the led tubes, no matter what kind of leds you use, the main point is how much l ightdecrease.....

    cowen says: Sep 22, 2010. 8:53 PM REP

    There is a place here in Plano Tx that makes fixtures to replace every sort of lighting from spot to flood and area lighting.

    The key is mirrors.

    Yes if you just put a ton of LEDS in a housing and power them all you are doing is making a LIGHT ENGINE just like a floresent tube is.

    they have some patented method of using LEDS and mirrors to disperse the output and direct it using far less LEDS.

    It is pretty neat to see how it is done.

    bumsugger says: Sep 11, 2009. 1:56 PM REPEr,where (in the UK) can I get hold of such as thing as a "T17 fluorscent tube protector?"

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    computerwiz_222 says: Oct 16, 2009. 6:55 PM REPIts T12, and you can get them at most hardware stores for around a 2 bucks - they are a pretty common place object. They are used in thoseconvenience store fridges with milk in them so that if the tube breaks, the glass is kept (relatively) intact.

    agis68 says: Oct 16, 2009. 4:20 AM REPvery clever indeed!!Now what is the limit (down and up) of LEDs you may use? Lets say if you should replace a 4W lamp?

    computerwiz_222 says: Oct 16, 2009. 6:53 PM REPi'm not sure that I understand your question.

    If you are asking how many LEDs you can fit into a tube, it is up to you. As many as you can fis the limit, just make sure you heat sink that circuit because with each additional LED, it runs hotter and hotter. With 87 LEDs, it dissipates approximat

    3 watts of heat.

    A general rule of thumb is that you need 1inch2 of surface area per watt of heat generated. Use copper if you can.

    Maybe clarify what you want to know... I would be glad to answer.

    sanjo says: Sep 1, 2009. 10:15 AM REPIf one so clueless, just forget it.

    orangesrhyme says: Aug 23, 2009. 6:59 PM REPIncredible idea. Will it light a room as well as a mercury tube?

    computerwiz_222 says: Aug 23, 2009. 7:10 PM REPDepends on the size of the room. From personal experience, a 10 x 10 room can be dimly lit if a diffuser is used. This lamp is ideally installed over awork bench to provide bright light on a spot.

    However, if you are willing to spend the time when these lamps are used in multiples they are very capable of lighting a room. I created four of theselamps for our project and we lit an entire room with three of them. The reason is because they are highly directional with light only coming from 20degrees of the entire lamp.

    Thanks - check out our site LED Ideas There are more pictures and graphs of light intensity.

    orangesrhyme says: Aug 24, 2009. 3:23 PM REPI see. So, if I decided to point them in all directions instead of one, it would light more of an area?

    computerwiz_222 says: Aug 24, 2009. 6:07 PM REPThat is actually one of the intended installation. If you had 2 tubes in a fixture, you would aim them apart from each other to provide light to thewhole room. We tried this, and it works good.

    DeadlyDad says: Aug 31, 2009. 11:35 PM REPOne way to have the holes face away from each other would be to place the strip on an old binder when you drill the holes. That should giveyou 10-20 degrees of tilt.

    orangesrhyme says: Aug 24, 2009. 9:27 PM REPGotcha. Definitely a project I'll be trying in the future.

    cloner says: Aug 23, 2009. 11:55 PM REPwhat kind of diffuser did u use? and what are other alternatives? thanks :)

    computerwiz_222 says: Aug 24, 2009. 6:35 AM REPWe created our own diffusers by taking a plastic tube protector and giving it a light sand with a high-grit sand paper. Check our site in the nearfuture for more information about this.

    frollard says: Aug 23, 2009. 9:49 PM REPWonderful build. I picked up some 1 amp led mains drivers from dealextreme for 3 bucks...definitely a good idea to use them for!

    DeadlyDad says: Aug 31, 2009. 9:45 AM REPLink, please.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/DeadlyDad/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/DeadlyDad/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/frollard/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/frollard/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/cloner/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/cloner/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/orangesrhyme/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/orangesrhyme/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/DeadlyDad/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/DeadlyDad/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/orangesrhyme/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/orangesrhyme/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://led.hypertriangle.com/http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/orangesrhyme/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/orangesrhyme/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/sanjo/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/sanjo/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/agis68/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/agis68/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments#DISCUSShttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=commentshttp://www.instructables.com/member/computerwiz_222/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments
  • 7/28/2019 LED Replacement Fluorescent Tube

    9/11

    http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/

    frollard says: Aug 31, 2009. 9:09 PM REPhttp://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13552

    DeadlyDad says: Aug 31, 2009. 11:31 PM REPThanks! hehe Imagine building this with a set of these 12W puppies . You'd want a 120mm tube, so you can fit the heatsinks and fans at eachend. :D

    luvasu says: Aug 27, 2009. 9:08 AM REPAdding to my comment. Pictures done with dark street, no flash and no other lights on. Just THREE of my "light points". Connected to a battery of my"experimental small solar supply" (15 W solar pannel to a 7A/h battery). Total of the three lights drain 300mA. The led single rows, with the same connectio

    method are still to be finished as environmental light to watch TV.

    luvasu says: Aug 27, 2009. 9:20 AM REPAt 10 inches distance gives 4000 lux (+/- 3%). At one meter 480 lux, enough to read a book or a newspaper. Ceiling light gives, at my dining table leve225 lux easy to eat, but not enough if a fish in in your dish.

    computerwiz_222 says: Aug 27, 2009. 11:49 AM REPThere is a problem with driving LEDs at a variable voltage... As the input voltage changes, the current through the LEDs changes. This can causepremature failure and brightness variation as the day goes on.

    luvasu says: Aug 29, 2009. 4:12 AM REPAs the lights are used night time and solar panel is off, the voltage starts at a full battery (in my case 13,65 vdc - nominal float voltage), thatmeans the voltage is only decreasing with the use. The worst for LEDs is the voltage up/down variations, in this case it goes only down veryslowly. As I wrote, two full months working this way and no failures... let's see after one year.

    BearWayne says: Aug 27, 2009. 1:38 PM REPVery clever project! One thing that is not clear to me is the power source--can this be inserted into a fluorescent fixture as a direct replacement, or must thefixture be modified (as in remove ballast & rewired) in order to use the led version?

    computerwiz_222 says: Aug 28, 2009. 9:45 AM REPWell, there are two installations that can be done. One is to install a switching mode power supply into the fixture in place of the ballast. The other is tocompletely remove the ballast and wire up an alternative 12 volt source such as the batteries in a solar or wind energy based home. The second methois preferred for many reasons.

    rmcatee says: Aug 28, 2009. 8:24 AM REPNow plug it into the lamp socket and watch the thing go up in flames because you forgot to remove the high voltage ballast! Very scary project.

    osama_says: Aug 28, 2009. 4:40 AM REPWell done, I think I'll try to make my own one

    albertrmz says: Aug 27, 2009. 6:51 PM REPYes a good question I too have the same question.

    chrwei says: Aug 27, 2009. 6:48 AM REPsomething is missing... what's the power source? I'm certain you don't run this off the ballast in a standard fixture, but since you don't directly say I can seesomeone assuming you do.

    waldo57 says: Aug 27, 2009. 12:17 PM REPI am thinking simply bypass (unwire) the ballast and wire directly to the AC source. For this reason I l ike his variation of using the DC socket instead of

    the Bi-Pin connectors. For my intended application of this in fact I am going to forgo the tube altogether as everything is going to be contained within aceiling mounted plexi light box in a (cold in winter) laundry room. Good Luck.

    computerwiz_222 says: Aug 27, 2009. 11:50 AM REPIt is any 12 volt source, preferably 12 volt battery charged via solar panels.

    luvasu says: Aug 27, 2009. 8:56 AM REPProviding you use high brigth white leds (nominal 3.5vdc 20mA) FOUR of them in series enlightens properly from 10 up to 14 vdc, always within the range a battery or power solar system. I've connected in paralel 5 rows of 4 leds and it works. No regulation or resistor needed. Two months working no fail, onlyslight dim under 12 vdc.

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  • 7/28/2019 LED Replacement Fluorescent Tube

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    http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Replacement-Fluorescent-Tube/

    luvasu says: Aug 27, 2009. 9:31 AM REPIn a three led row (as in your flourescent tube) and to achieve top brightness, one 120 ohms resistor per row will do... if voltage remains under 14 vdcand if power is from a battery. Never from a mains AC adapter, as their floating voltage can rise to 17vdc when designed to work with a 12 vdc appliancalso the (quite always) remaining AC is no good for a led.

    dudaott says: Aug 27, 2009. 8:09 AM REPHello guys! Have you ever consider to use SMD LEDs? I mean the kind we find in cell phones, the ones that l ight the main LCD display. They are usuallycool white and are REALLY bright, though they use lower voltage and current. I`m doing a bed lamp for my wife, as she likes to read and suffer fromimnsonia, and those 9 watt PL lamps doesn`t live long enough... And my cousin has tons of old cell phones to salvage... Best Regards dudaott

    raytruant says: Aug 27, 2009. 7:25 AM REPThese types of T8-based tubes are commercially available for ~$65.

    A good application is lighting cold rooms or unheated garages where fluorescents can't work.Good white LEDs can put out 132 lumens per watt, while fluorescents are only 65 lumens, and full of poison gas. (incandescent is 15 lumens/watt -meh)

    I've seen prototype LEDs from Nichia output 250 lumens/watt.

    Small factoid: if the US went to LED lighting, it would save $115B by 2025, shut down 133 power stations, and prevent 258 million metric tons of C02.

    (Science Magazine, 325: 14 august 2009, p.809)

    skrubol says: Aug 27, 2009. 6:42 AM REP2.7 ohm is probably not enough for current limiting on the individual strings of 3. Your one string that is connected to the reference of your regulator will havthe proper current, but the rest of the strings may have significantly different currents, especially if the temperature is different at one end of the tube as it isat the other. On its own, the end with the regulator will be warmest of course, so it shouldn't be a big problem, as the reference LED's will be the warmest(highest current.) If you have LED's with different Vf's, you may get significant variations in current between strings though.

    mattccc says: Aug 23, 2009. 6:13 PM REPwhere did you get the leds from

    computerwiz_222 says: Aug 23, 2009. 8:15 PM REPA company called ledshoppe (google them) I ordered 1000 for 89 dollars which works out to 8.9 cents a piece. They are cheaper now though, I ordered1000 about a month ago, and they were 59.

    mattccc says: Aug 26, 2009. 12:43 PM REPthank you

    jmacfarlane823 says: Aug 24, 2009. 5:13 PM REPWHAT!?!?! in my town The Source sells them INDIVIDUALLY for 5.99!!! just goes to show that the net is cheaper! :P

    jeff-o says: Aug 25, 2009. 9:55 AM REPpfff... The Source. They're pirates.

    slimguy379 says: Aug 25, 2009. 5:41 PM REPanybody say light saber blade?

    Dipankar says: Aug 25, 2009. 4:35 PM REPTube lights are bulky and fragile why make a tube light at all. You can make a square light with the same circuit and it will gives the same light out put. Ofcourse the light output will never be as good as a 40 watt Tube light but in future when brighter LED's comes in the market then it may be possible. I havealso made one see "LED TUBE LIGHT AC " where I made it run on direct AC and is also cheap to make, but same result.

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  • 7/28/2019 LED Replacement Fluorescent Tube

    11/11

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