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    NOV2013

    Author

    Cheon Woon-young

    Jeonju, Where History and Food Meet

    KOREA'S GARDENSThe Beauty of Natural Harmony

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    V E R S T O R Y

    PublisherWoo Jin-yung, Korean Culture and Information Serv

    Executive ProducerSuh Jeong-sun

    E-mail [email protected]

    Magazine ProductionSeoul Selection

    Editor-in-ChiefRobert Koehler

    Producer Shin Yesol

    Production SupervisorLee Jin-hyuk

    Editorial AdvisorsJang Woojung, Im Hyeong Doo

    Copy EditorsGregory C. Eaves, D. Peter Kim, Hwang Chi-young

    Creative DirectorJung Hyun-young

    Head DesignerKo Min-jeong

    PhotographyRyu Seunghoo, Robert Koehler

    PrintingLEEFFECT

    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduceany form without permission from KOREAand the Korean Cultu

    Information Service.

    If you want to receive a free copy of KOREAor wish to cancel a

    please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF file of KOREAand a map

    with common Korean words appearing in our text are available

    the thumbnail of KOREAon the homepage of www.korea.net.

    11-1110073-000016-06

    04

    28

    CONTENTSNOVEMBER2013VOL.9 NO.11

    14 PEN & BRUSHAuthor Cheon Woon-young

    18 PEOPLEDr. Kim Soon Kwon changes the world through corn

    20 TRAVELJeonju

    24 SPORTSKoreas rising gymnastic stars

    26 ENTERTAINMENTJazz singer Nah Youn-sun moves European audiences

    28 SPECIAL ISSUE

    2013 Gyeonggi International Ceramic Biennale

    30 CURRENT KOREAKorean reality shows go global

    32 SUMMIT DIPLOMACY

    President Park discusses innovation, openness and

    investment during Southeast Asian trip

    36 POLICY REVIEWRegulatory reform changes lives

    38 CREATIVE TECHNOLOGYKorea takes to the seas for energy, minerals

    40 GLOBAL KOREABuilding houses of home with HFHK

    42 GREAT KOREANConfucian scholar Yi I

    44 MY KOREATaking in the autumn colors

    46 MULTICULTURAL KOREAThe hand of God

    48 TALES FROM KOREAPak Hyeokgeose

    50 FLAVORGimjang

    Korean gardens form a perfect harmony between

    nature and the manmade.

    C O V E R S T O R Y04

    KOREAS GARDENS

    26

    18

    G a t e w a y t o K o r e a

    Assisting events that introduce Korean culture to non-Koreans

    Producing foreign-language publications and different types of

    promotional materials on Korea

    Operating the government homepage,www.korea.net

    Assisting intenational academics, opinion leaders and foreign media

    reporting on Korea

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    KOREASGARDENS

    V E R S T O R Y

    Revealing the beauty of nature as it really is

    Written byHong Kwang Pyo

    Garden of Seongyojang villa, Gangneung Huwon Garden, Changdeokgung Palace, Seoul Buyongdong

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    While relatively unknown overseas,

    Korean gardens embody a unique

    aesthetic beauty and philosophical

    nderpinning that make them truly mesmerizing.

    With a gardening heritage that dates back millennia,

    Koreans have created spaces that reveal a natural

    eauty with as little artifice as possible. Korean

    ardens are the products o a people who love nature.

    Korean Garden Philosophy

    Korean traditional gardens embody a variety o

    deologies and philosophies. Trough this we can seeKorea and Koreans through the spiritual world they

    ave built over time.

    ypically, the gardens embody the ollowing

    hilosophies: hermitism, aoism, Yin and Yang

    nd the Five Elements, eng shui, Buddhism and

    Conucianism.

    A philosophy that tangibly reflects Korean

    raditional societys view o nature and lie, hermitism

    is a major influence on Korean gardens. Te hermitage

    garden, a type o Korean traditional garden, is based

    on this philosophy o tossing aside worldly interests

    and desires and returning to nature to remain aloo

    rom the world.

    aoism has also lef an impact. Tis philosophy

    encourages you to pursue benefits in the here and now

    with the objective o obtaining immortality. Tis was a

    core value o those who maintained hermitage gardens

    with the intent o making nature their riend.

    Yin and Yang reers to theyinandyangin the

    taegeuk, while the Five Elementswater, fire, wood,metal and earthcreate and transorm the cosmos.

    Korean gardens sometimes make use o part o this

    philosophy, which posits that the cosmos is round

    while the earth is square. Tis is most requently seen

    in the design o ponds, which are ofen square with

    round islands.

    Feng shui, meanwhile, seeks places where the energy

    within the earth is the strongest. On a grand scale, the

    1. Changdeokgung

    Palaces Buyongji

    Pond, a beautiful

    example of

    Korean palace

    gardening. The

    Huwon Garden, of

    which the Buyongji

    Pond is a part, is

    a UNESCO World

    Heritage Site.

    2. Damyangs

    Soswaewon

    Garden, one

    of Koreas best

    loved hermitage

    gardens.

    application o eng shui is or the ounding o cities, but on a

    micro scale, it involves things like digging ponds and planting

    trees in your garden to control energy flow.

    Te influence o Buddhism can best be seen, naturally

    enough, in the gardens o Buddhist temples. Ponds are dug and

    lotuses planted to recreate the Buddhist Pure Land paradise.

    Te influence o Seon (Zen) is also apparent in the use o

    nature as an object o contemplation. Conucian virtues, like

    filial piety, are also physically expressed in the scenery o

    Korean palaces, Conucian schools and homes.

    Korean Garden Forms

    Fundamentally, Korean gardens are composed o natural

    elements like water, wood and stone. Where no natural

    elements exist, an artificial ramework is created and naturemoved into it.

    In the case o hermitage gardens, the natural environment

    is lef relatively unchanged compared to other garden orms.

    For instance, at Soswaewon Garden, a space was made in

    the garden wall to not impede the flow o water, while at

    Songgwangsa emple, the natural environment was retained so

    that people could enjoy reflections on the gathering water.

    Artificial gardens are ofen inside palaces and aristocratic

    estates. Building such a garden requires a good deal o

    groundbreaking and landscaping, which in turn requi

    o money. So these kinds o gardens were rarely built b

    or the non-wealthy. Anapji Pond in Gyeongju and the

    gardens o Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung pala

    examples o such gardens, with largely artificially dug

    Composition of Korean Gardens

    Korean gardens are a combination o architectural, sp

    water and stone elements.

    Architecturally, Korean gardens make requent use

    pavilions. ypically, they employjeong(small pavilion

    and nu(larger pavilions). Nuare prevalent in palaces

    and government buildings, butjeongare typically use

    in home and hermitage gardens. Examples o nuare

    Gyeongbokgungs Gyeonghoeru, Changdeokgungs JuNamwons Gwanghallu, Byeongsan Seowons Mandae

    Gukdamwons Pungyongnu. Te numerous examples

    include Gyeongbokgungs Hyangwonjeong, Changde

    Buyongjeong and Aeryeonjeong, Bogildos Seyeonjeo

    Seongyojangs Hwallaejeogn, Andongs Gunjajeong, B

    Cheongamjeong, Buam-dongs Seokpajeong and Bua

    Hwasuns Imdaejeong and Yeongyangs Gyeongjeong.

    Occasionally employed are dae, which are either a r

    o earth or stone or a building built on it.

    1

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    in beautiul natural locations rather than in their ho

    Most Korean gardens are located in naturally beaut

    spots. In particular, hermitage gardens are built on

    outstanding natural scenery and much care is taken

    harm the aesthetic or ecological elements o the loc

    garden was built so people could return to nature, b

    the space or a bit and make riends with nature. T

    Korean gardens apart rom Chinese, Japanese and

    gardens.

    Korean gardens are designed to highlight the pas

    time. People can tell spring has come rom the soun

    stream water flowing rom the melting ice and the

    plum blossoms. Azaleas and peonies blossom, ollo

    myrtles. Ten the rains come, signaling the arrival o

    As maple turns red, ginkgoes go golden, and grassh

    chirp, you can eel the deepening o autumn. Finall

    wake up one morning and the garden is covered in

    snowwinter is here. Te Korean garden is a stage

    passage o the our seasons through the transorma

    nature.

    Korean gardens also reveal the beauty o emptin

    rees are neither planted in intricate clusters nor s

    out sparingly. Te garden makes use o empty spa

    to a technique called chagyeong, or borrowed land

    Trough chagyeong, the beauty o the surroundin

    is borrowed, so to speak, and is used as part o th

    garden itsel. Tis gardening technique creates be

    emptiness and is hard to find in other countries. B

    created by emptying ull spaces and filling empty

    Korean gardens are also a total sensory experienc

    use light, smell, sound, taste and touch. As the ligh

    rom morning to dusk, lit spaces and shaded space

    created and the scenery is transormed. Te scents

    stop, as different flowers blossom with the change i

    Humans and nature are in harmony through the b

    music created rom water, wind, birds and the sway

    bamboo. Te true taste o nature can be enjoyed by

    a pavilion with a cup o tea. Feel the sofness o flow

    your hair blowing in the wind, the coolness o the w

    when dipping your eet in the pond and the passag

    while gripping the weathered railing o an old pavil

    Anapji Garden

    Anapji is Koreas

    oldest existing

    traditional garden,

    built in 674 during

    the reign of King

    Munmu of the Silla

    Kingdom. Anapji is a

    fully artificial garden

    in that the pond was

    ug, hills created, flowers planted and rare birds and animals

    ntroduced. The water in Anapji comes from Gyeongjus Bukcheon

    tream via a series of stone steps. The lakeside is modeled on

    he shape of the seashore, and ornamental rocks have beenlaced there to lend beauty to the landscape. Also accentuating

    he scene are flowering trees that bloom in accordance with the

    easons. (Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

    Gyeongbokgung Palaces Amisan Garden

    misan Garden behind Gyeongbokgung Palaces Gyotaejeon Hall

    as a four-story flower bed made of rectangular stone. In the

    ower bed are ornamental rocks, stone basins and other stone

    lements, as well as four and six-sided chimneys beautifully

    uilt from brick. The chimneys are finely decorated with a variety

    f motifs including arabesque, pine, bamboo, plums, peonies,

    hrysanthemum, dragons, tigers, bats, haetaeand clouds.

    lowering shrubs like dwarf almonds, yellow and red plums,

    pricots, peonies, azaleas and cherries are planted alongside tall

    rees such as those of pine, pear and apricot and Cornelian cherry,

    roducing a beautiful vegetation landscape. (Seoul)

    Changdeokgung Palaces Huwon Garden

    Changdeokgung

    Palaces famous

    Huwon Garden

    is divided into

    several sections:

    Buyongjeong,

    Aeryeonjeong,

    Jondeokjeong and

    Ongnyucheon.

    Located at the entrance of Huwon, the Buyongjeong area

    tilizes scenic elements with different meanings, producing a

    private space that is a cut above mere simple beauty. Sit above it,

    and you feel almost as if youre on a ship.

    Located on the way to Ongnyucheon Stream, the Aeryeonjeong

    area is simple and rustic.

    If you head up a bit from Aeryeongjeong, youll come to a

    couple of pavilions such as Gwallamjeong and Jondeokjeong---

    this is the Jondeokjeong area. The ponds and pavilions in this area

    have been placed in a way that maintains the natural topography.

    A nice walking path has been created, too.

    In the deepest part of the garden is the Ongnyucheon area. The

    heart of this section is a stream flowing from the eastern peak of

    Mt. Bugaksan. The name Ongnyucheon comes from an inscription

    written onto a rock by King Injo. On this rock, a channel has been

    carved, taking the water to an artificial waterfall that produces awaterfall-like sound in a deep valley. (Seoul)

    Soswaewon

    Built in the 16th century by scholar Yang San-bo, Soswaewon is

    one of Koreas best known hermitage gardens. As a hermitage

    garden, its makers showed great restraint and produced a nature-

    focused space. For instance, the garden wall was designed to

    avoid impeding the flow of the stream at the heart of the garden.

    Several pavilions are at vantage points throughout the garden. To

    reach the garden, you must first pass through one of the countrys

    most scenic bamboo forests.

    Soswaewon is located in a village called Jigok; nearby are

    many pavilions such as Hwangbyeokdang, Myeonangjeong and

    Songgangjeong. (Damyang, Jeollanam-do)

    Buyongdong Hermitage GardenLocated on the

    southwestern

    island of Bogildo,

    Buyongdong

    Hermitage Garden

    was built in the 17thcentury by scholar Yun

    Seon-do.

    The garden can

    be divided into several sections. The area around Seyeonjeong

    Pavilion comprises a pavilion, pond and pool. The square-shaped

    pond has a square island and draws water from a pool made by

    blocking a stream with a stone dam. Built between the pond and

    Koreas Representative Gardens

    pool, Seyeongjeong Pavilion was built with an entirely open

    structure to provide unobstructed views of the surroundings.

    On a mountain slope a kilometer north of here is the

    Dongcheon Seoksil section. The center of this section is

    Dongcheon Seoksil, a small pavilion whose name means

    house of a hermit. Yun spent quite a bit of time here,

    reading books and enjoying the mountain scenery.

    The last section of the garden is Yuns own living space, the

    halls of Nakseojae and Goksudang. Both have a natural

    beauty to them. Behind Nakseojae is a beautiful boulder,

    while next to the Goksudang flows a stream. In the pond dug

    in front of the Goksudang are three ornamental rocks that

    represent the Three Gods Mountain. (Bogildo, Jeollanam-do)

    Dongnakdang

    Dongnakdang was the living room and study of Joseon

    Dynasty scholar Yi Eon-jeok. Using the borrowed landscape

    technique, the room allows visitors to enjoy the surrounding

    natural beauty. From it, one gets fine views of the pine forest

    beyond its walls. (Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

    Seongyojang

    Founded by Yi

    Nae-beon in the

    mid-1700s, the

    ten-building

    structure

    Seongyojang

    took several

    eras to reach

    completion.

    Hwangnaejeong Pavilion was built in the early 19th century,

    with a pond full of lotuses. The nearby myrtles fill the space

    with beautiful flowers and scents in summer.

    (Gangneung, Gangwon-do)

    V E R S T O R Y

    0

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    BorrowBeautyLandscape architect sa garden is more thanwhats inside the wall

    Interview byRobert Koehler

    Gardens are made by people, but the

    principle is to make it look as i it were

    made by heaven.

    Tis is the key to Korean gardens,

    explains SeoAhn otal Landscape

    President Jung Young-sun, one o

    Koreas top landscape architects. In act,

    she designed the venue or the interview,

    the lovely Heewon Garden o the Ho-

    Am Art Museum in Yongin, Gyeonggi-

    do.

    As we conducted the interview, she

    took the writer on a tour o the gardens,

    pointing out the beauty o the rough-cut

    rocks, the view o the nearby lake, andthe terracing that gradually brought the

    hilltop museum into view.

    Jung quickly stresses that Korean

    gardens are quite diverse. A very

    important thing is that Korean

    gardensbe it Huwon, Gyeongbokgung

    Palace, Seoswaewon or Buyongdong

    have similarities but are also quite

    different, depending on the place

    and the architecture, she says. Tis is

    reflected in Heewon Garden, which

    some call an encyclopedia o Korean

    gardening. She adds, I analyzed how

    our ancestors viewed nature and how

    they reflected this in their living spaces,

    their temples, their palaces. I also looked

    at how they viewed the land.

    Searching or the roots o these

    attitudes, she ound them in the land

    itsel. Because our land is different

    rom Chinas and Japans, naturally our

    view o nature is different, she says. In

    particular, we have a lot o mountains,

    and i we just adjust the land a bit, we

    can see the surrounding scenery, to

    borrow it.

    Tis principle was put to work at

    Heewon, where Jung first read the

    landscape, taking note o the mountains

    and the lovely reservoir, and then set

    about finding ways to utilize it. She

    says Heewon is not merely a Korean

    traditional gardenits an evolution

    o tradition. A lot o our history and

    tradition was cut off by the Japanese

    colonial period, the Korean War and

    aferwards, she says. Especially with

    gardening, there was no modernization

    process. In that regard, this place is very

    important.

    rue to Korean gardening techniques,

    Jung chose not to copy Koreas otheramous gardens. We couldnt just

    imitate Huwon or Soswaewon or

    Buyongdong, she says. We needed to

    make something that fit this building

    (the museum), this landscape and this

    age.

    o urther take advantage o the

    landscape, she included a larger outer

    garden with the lake and mountains so

    that visitors rom the city could better

    appreciate the beauty o the landscapes.

    Te garden is also an exhibition space

    throughout the landscape are stone

    figures, Buddhist relies and other

    artistic works o masonry. Even the

    coffee shop, which has lovely views o

    the garden, is designed to blend in with

    the landscape and harkens back to a

    time when scholars sat in their pavilions

    with a cup o tea.

    Jung laments that some o Koreas

    more amous gardens are either

    overtouristed or are not as well

    maintained as they should be. Still, she

    recommends Seouls Seongnagwon

    Garden and Seokpajeong Villa as good

    examples o Korean gardens.

    2

    Globalizing Korean Gardens

    Over the last ew decades, diverse efforts have gone

    nto building Korean gardens overseas. About 15 such

    ardens have been made in Japan, China and Europe,

    elping to promote Koreas unique culture abroad and

    nstilling pride in ethnic Koreans living outside o the

    motherland. A Korean garden has been built in the

    Mongolian capital o Ulaanbaatar, and efforts to do the

    ame in Los Angeles and Irvine, Caliornia, will also

    romote Korean culture.

    Most Korean gardens overseas have been built by

    municipal and provincial governments, usually or

    verseas expos or as part o sister city ties. None were

    nitiated or paid or by private initiative, however,

    artly because private entities have difficulty raising

    he cash or the projects. Te main reason, however, is

    ack o leadership rom the private sector.

    Korea has become a world leader with a mature

    conomy and political system. Still, ew abroad seem

    o know that the country has 5,000 years o history and

    nique culture. Te Park Geun-hye administrations

    aunch o its Cultural Enrichment initiative seeks to

    promote Korea as a culturally mature nation and instill

    pride in its citizens as cultured people.

    Building Korean gardens overseas to promote

    Korean culture can help realize the initiatives goals.

    Active participation rom central and regional

    governments and the private sector is required.

    Te Korean traditional garden is a symbolic icon

    cultivated by Koreas unique environmental conditions

    and the people raised under those conditions. From

    Anapji Pond o the Silla Kingdom to the UNESCO-

    registered Huwon Garden o Changdeokgung Palace,

    such gardens have a scenic nature quite unlike those o

    other nations. Palace gardens express the highest level

    o decoration through the use o ponds, pavilions,

    flower beds and stones. Hermitage gardens show the

    beauty o nature as it is by employing as ew man-

    made items as possible. Home gardens, meanwhile,

    ocus on the backyard to produce a rustic atmosphere,

    creating a hidden beauty. When building Korean

    gardens overseas, this identity must not be damaged.

    When this principle is adhered to, the Korean

    character o traditional gardens can be preserved.

    V E R S T O R Y

    Lotus ponds of

    Seonyudo Park, a

    modern example of

    Korean gardening.

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    N & B R U S H

    As a writer, as somebody who gives bir th to

    something, it was like sel-reflection. And

    personally, as a woman who is past 40 and not

    a mother, it was like introspection. I still have much to say

    about mothers, both in themselves and as symbols.

    So says author Cheon Woon-young about her latest volume

    o short stories,As You Know, oo, Mother(Moonji Publishing

    Co., Ltd, 2013). Since the release o her first collection o short

    stories, Te Needle(Changbi Publishers, 2001), Cheon has been

    provoking audiences and shattering stereotypes about emale

    authors with her vivid imagery and raw and almost primal

    stories and depictions. WithAs You Know, oo, Mother, she

    tackles a number o issues, including the cause o evil, but most

    importantly, she examines the meaning o motherboth the

    literal and symbolic meanings o the wordand the impact

    that even bad mothers can have on this world.

    Good Seed from Bad Mothers

    Being a collection o short stories published over the last our

    years,As You Know, oo, Motherdid not find its inspiration

    rom one specific source. In the case o ull-length novels,

    you write with one purpose rom start to finish, but in the case

    o short stories, you immediately write the stories that touch

    you when they do, says Cheon. So afer you collect the short

    stories youve released, you also come to realize the theme you

    wanted at the time.

    Some o the stories began as explorations o the start o evil,

    but manyincluding the title workdeal with mothe

    mother-figures, be them physical or symbolic mother

    as Cheon explains, a being that conceives and gives b

    something, a being that eeds and raises something, a

    that educates and influences something. In particular

    wanted to see how even poor mothers can produce so

    good. She says, Te mothers in the book might seem

    mothers or mothers that had a bad influence, but I wa

    try thinking about how, ultimately, we get good seeds

    these mothers.

    Talking to People. Watching Peopl

    Cheon says she finds her inspiration rom lie, both he

    and those o others. Teres nothing as vivid, complex

    mysterious as real lie, she says. Shes always talking w

    people, or at the very least observing them. When I w

    novel, I shut mysel inside alone, but Im constantly w

    until the time I begin writing, she says.

    Likewise, when the words dont flow, she mixes wit

    masses, watching what they do. I sit or a while in on

    she says. I watch quietly. People. Tings. I just sit ther

    nothing else I can do.

    I Thought You Were a Man

    Literary critics as well as the general public have prais

    or breaking with the bourgeois sensibilities displayed

    emale writers o the 1990s to launch a grittier literary

    NOT JUST A WOMANWRITERCheon Woon-young breaks the mold with a literary world all her own

    Written by Kim Hyung-eun and

    Robert Koehler

    4

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    6

    N & B R U S H

    I wonder i perhaps I receive such reviews because existing

    emale writers usually write womens stories or because they tell

    heir own stories more subtly, and my novels are different rom

    hat, says Cheon.

    Saying many readers seem to have a prejudice toward emale

    writers, she says shes never really thought o hersel as a emale

    writer, let alone set out to create a whole new school o emale

    terature. Ive never thought o mysel as a emale writer. Nor

    id I set out to create a new emale aesthetic to erase the title o

    woman, she says. All I did was find the right voice when I had

    story I wanted to tell.

    At any rate, Cheon is wary o public reviews. Tey become

    risons, she says.

    They Are All My Children

    o ask Cheon which o her works she likes best is like asking

    mother to choose her avorite child. Im attached to all my

    works or different reasons, she says. Tey are all my kids, the

    ad ones and the good ones.

    Te Needle, or instance, is her eldest son, written in a white

    eat. Farewell, Circus(Munhakdongne Publishing Corp.,

    005), on the other hand, required quite a bit o work. Te

    ovel, which deals with a Korean-Chinese person now living in

    Korea, required Cheon to travel back and orth between Korea

    nd China. It was tough, but she did pick up the unique Korean

    dialect spoken in the ethnic Korean region o northeast China.

    Now that I think o it again, I wonder how I did it, she says. It

    wouldve been impossible without the stamina o youth.

    She considers her most significant novel, however, to be

    Ginger(Changbi Publishers, 2011). Tis daring work tells the

    story o a torturerbased on a real and still very much alive

    individualwho tortured dissidents during Koreas military

    dictatorships o the 1970s and 80s. I had quite a hard time

    because its still ongoing history, she says. Its not something I

    could talk about rashly.

    Gingeralso showed tension between what she wanted to say

    and what the story wanted to say, as she puts it. Tere were

    also times when she managed to righten hersel. Teres a

    scene where the torturer, immersed in his work, is beautiully

    romanticizing what hes doing, she says. As I wrote that, I saw

    mysel enjoying the torture, too. I was rightened.

    Te book took a while to finish, but once she completed it,

    she said she elt as i she had passed through a sort o gate. Te

    most important thing was that through the process, I could

    realize what kind o person I was, she says. It also represented

    the start o a new direction in her writing. A flow that had

    begun with Te Needlehad slightly changed course with

    Ginger, she says. I really like the change in direction. I plan to

    go with the flow or the time being.

    The Needle Ginger As You Know, Too, Mother

    My older brother held out the limp paper

    clown for the woman to take. After a

    moments hesitation, she took it. This was the

    woman my brother liked. He pretended to be

    uninterested, but had been watching everything.

    I started doubting again.All this woman is

    looking for is a marriage certificate and plane

    ticket to Korea. Behind those gentle features,

    she is hatching a clever scheme, no doubt.

    My brother spoke to me with his kind eyes.

    Dont doubt her.

    With his good-natured eyes, he told me that

    he didnt have anything to lose anyway.

    My brothers voice is a little . . . but other than

    that, hes good hearted, and the restaurant hes

    running right now is doing pretty well, too. Once

    you get used to his voice, its not that bad. Its

    not like he cant speak at all, you know . . . since

    he hurt his throat in that accident . . .

    I kept fumbling for words, like a child making

    one excuse after the other or a soldier who lost

    the will to fight. I stopped talking and looked

    at my brother. He grinned even wider and kept

    smiling like a fool. When he smiles, you can see

    the wrinkles in his throat. It makes him look older.

    I like this girl, my brother said in my ear.

    Her name was Hae-hwa. Lim Hae-hwa. My

    brother said her name was pretty. The woman

    laughed for the first time, maybe hearing what

    my brother said. He chuckled along with

    her. While my brother was laughing, I stole a

    glance at the womans eyes. The back of my

    head itched as if I had something to hide. The

    expression on her face didnt change at all. She

    wasnt the kind of person who showed fear or

    confusion easily. Her carefully composed faceactually frightened me for some reason.

    My brother brought out the present he had

    purchased. It was a set of Korean cosmetics

    that we had been told was popular with Chinese

    women. The marriage broker had the men on

    the tour buy presents they would need if they

    ended up with one of the women, gifts for the

    bride and her parents. All of the men bought the

    same cosmetics set at the airport. The woman

    toyed with one corner of the packaging. My

    brother looked at me and gestured with his chin.

    Thats a present, so anyway, you can just

    have it. No pressure at all.

    When I was done talking, my brother nodded

    his head in an exaggerated way and then

    whispered something else in my ear.

    My brother says that this is fine with him. . .

    as long as its fine with you.

    The woman didnt reply. Perhaps she didnt

    like my brother? As my brothers smile kept

    getting bigger and as her silence kept stretching

    out longer, I gradually felt more and more uneasy.

    Do you think it would be okay if . . . we had

    the wedding before we go?

    The woman spoke with her eyes facing down.

    After she was done, she slowly lifted her head

    and gazed at my brother. Her face looked like

    she might start crying at any minute.

    Im the only child in the family. My parents

    arent happy with the idea of sending me off

    without a wedding. Anyway, were supposed to

    have an engagement ceremony before we go,

    right? If we cant do the wedding, it should be

    OK to take a picture of me in a floral veil, right?

    If nothing else, I should

    leave a picture behind

    when I go. . .

    The woman wasnt

    speaking to me, but

    to my brother. At last,

    I relaxed a little. My

    brother gave her abig smile instead of a

    response.

    Excerpt, Farewell, Circus, p1718.

    In addition to the Korean

    original, the novel is available in

    French translation, too.

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    8

    Dr. Kim Soon Kwon was born

    in 1945 to a amily that

    armed and fished or a living.

    Japanese occupation o Korea had just

    ended and the country would soon see its

    most tragic civil war. Growing up, Kim

    and his riends would ofen roam the

    countryside and hunt or rogs, pheasants

    and even grasshoppers; not or kicks, but

    or ood. When he ailed his high school

    exam, he had no choice but to help his

    dad work on the amily arm.

    Kim eventually got into high school,

    however, and went on to attend university

    and graduate school, where he studied

    agricultural science to ulfill his dream o

    developing hybrid crops to make arming

    more efficient and to provide better, saer

    ood or more people in need. Following

    his proessors advice, he applied or

    the Ph.D program at Seoul National

    University, but ailed that exam, too.

    I was never the best student. It turns

    out I dont even have that high o an IQ,

    he said.

    Eyes Opened

    Nevertheless, Kim was apparently good

    enough or the University o Hawaii,

    where he studied thanks to a scholarship

    and received his doctorate in only three

    years. While there, he grew particularly

    ascinated by one proessor who never

    hesitated to wear overalls and sneakers and

    jump into the field to conduct research.

    I realized then that you cant become a

    proper agricultural researcher i you dont

    jump into the cornfield yoursel. I you

    just sit around the laboratory all day in a suit and tie,

    youll never get anywhere, he said.

    One o his proessors then suggested that Kim go

    with him to Arica and help develop corn or the

    hungry. Kim, however, was intent on returning to

    his homeland to help the starving people there. Afer

    humbly reusing the offer and returning to Korea to

    start his research, the good doctor soon ound that

    ew were on his side.

    Homegrown Success

    Corn research was severely limited and most people

    in the field reused to even conduct urther research

    on developing it, saying it was useless or Korea. Kim

    was not easily deterred, however. Convinced that aproper genetic hybrid o corn could be developed to

    eed more Koreans, he stuck to his research. In 1976,

    he developed Asias first hybrid breed o corn that

    could produce three times the volume o ood corn

    provided at the time.

    News o Kims success reached agricultural experts

    all across the world. Tis humble man rom the

    Korean provinces had accomplished a world first in

    his field, finding an effective and sae way to fight

    mass hunger in underdeveloped nations.

    Finding a Different Way

    Tis time, the United Nations pleaded with

    to Arica to do or the people there what he

    Korea. Agriculturalists rom all over the glo

    ailed in more than 30 years o research to p

    proper hybrid that would flourish in the nat

    largely due to the indigenous weed, striga, n

    the devils plant, which made it impossible

    corn to grow.

    Kim, recognizing that complete resistance

    was utile, developed a hybrid breed that wo

    in harmony with striga. His predecessors ha

    tried to wipe it out entirely, and ailed each

    Striga is native to Nigerian soil. You cant

    it to totally relinquish its home tur. You havcompromise a little. I made a corn that could

    with striga instead o trying to rebel against i

    Te good doctor had succeeded again. T

    his work, thousands o people have been sav

    mass starvation. Recommended by many o

    Nobel Prize, Kim said his next dream is to d

    corn to eed people in North Korea.

    o me, corn isnt only ood, its hope. I be

    can be a means to achieve world peace.

    SEEDSOFHOPEDr. Kim Soon Kwonhelps feed the world

    with his revolutionarycorn research.

    Written by Felix Im

    1. In 1976, Kim

    developed corn

    that produced three

    times the amount of

    food corn provided

    at the time.

    International Corn

    Foundation

    2.Kim trains

    students at an

    agricultural school

    in Zimbabwe. International Corn

    Foundation

    E O P L E

    1

    2

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    R A V E L

    o appreciate Jeonjus charms, you must pre

    get lost. And bring your appetite with you.

    Jeonjuexemplified by the Jeonju Hanok

    Villageis a heady mix o picturesque alleyways, ruKorean homes, old Conucian shrines, artisan work

    historic gates and plenty o good ood. Its even mor

    charming in autumn, when the leaves change color a

    bathe the alleyways in wonderul hues o gold and c

    0

    Elegant Korean Hanok homes and quaint alleyways of Jeonju Hanok Village.

    JeonjuWhere traditional Korean charm andculinary delights collide

    Written byRober

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    Jeonjus signiture dish, thebibimbap. KTO 2. Jeondong Catholic Cathedral, one of Koreas oldest and most beautiful Catholic churchesYellow ginkgo leaves form a golden blanket over Jeonju Hyanggyo, a historic Confucian school. Jeonju City

    2

    Where to Eat

    Jeonjus best

    knownbibimbap

    house is Gogung (T. 063-

    251-3211), a taxi ride from

    Jeonjus Hanok Village.

    Closer to the village is

    Gajok Hoegwan (T. 063-284-0982), which is also hig

    recommended. This writer recommends Seongmida

    (T. 063-273-0029), a smaller place hidden in an alley

    Gajok Hoegwan. Its friendly, held in high esteem by

    and above all, does great food.

    Where to Stay

    Many of the

    homes in Jeonju

    Hanok Village double as

    guesthouses. Youll find

    some real gems here. Thenicest is Hakindang (T.

    063-284-9929), a palatial

    estate built in 1905 by high-ranking royal court offic

    Nak-jung. The homes architecture incorporates asp

    royal palace design. Korean independence activist

    (18761949) slept in what is now the VIP room. Ano

    great place is Dongnagwon (T. 063-287-2040), a H

    estate in an alleyway off Eunhaeng-ro. In addition t

    a lodging facility, it also serves as a memorial to Am

    missionary William McCleery Junkin, who conducte

    religious and educational activities in Jeonju after c

    to Korea in 1892.

    Getting There

    The KTX express train connects Jeonju with Se

    Yongsan Station (travel time: about 2 hrs, 10

    MORE

    Jejudo

    1

    Seoul

    Jeonju

    R A V E L

    Catholic churches. Built by French missionaries in 1914, the mostly

    Romanesque brick structure is crowned by three Byzantine spires.

    Nobody will conuse it or the Hagia Sophia, but its spectacular

    nonetheless. Te old brick rectory there is quite lovely, too.

    Quiet place to think

    One o Bukchons most charming spotsespecially in autumnis

    the Jeonju Hyanggyo, the towns old Conucian school. Moved to its

    current spot in 1603, the school is a collection o graceul wood halls

    and centuries-old trees, perect or a relaxing stroll. In autumn, the

    ginkgoes in the courtyard turn bright yellow; as the leaves all, they

    create a beautiul golden carpet. As an added bonus, the school is

    relatively tourist-ree, creating a tranquil space or contemplation.

    Culinary capital of KoreaMany Korean oodies will tell you Koreas best cuisine can be had in

    Jeonju. Te bread basket o Korea or centuries, the region produces

    some o Koreas best quality rice and oodstuffs. Te ingredients are

    liberally combined into dishes that bewitch the senses.

    Jeonjus signature dish is Jeonju bibimbap, a bowl o rice mixed

    with 30 seasoned vegetables and other ingredients, including

    raw bee and tangy red pepper paste. A table ull o side dishes

    accompanies each meal, the number and variety o which boggle the

    mind. Another Jeonju avorite is kongnamul gukbap, a soup o bean

    sprouts, anchovy broth and rice. Not only is it tasty, but makes or a

    great hangover remedy.

    3

    Land of royalty

    eonju is the ancestral home o the Jeonju Yi clan, the royal

    amily o the Joseon Dynasty (13921910). Te kings o Joseon

    uled Korea or 500 largely stable years, overseeing some o

    he nations greatest cultural accomplishments including the

    nvention o Hangeul, Koreas ingenious indigenous alphabet.

    Gyeonggijeon Shrine, located in the heart o the city, was

    ounded in 1410 to pay tribute to the ounder o the Joseon

    Dynasty, King aejo. Most o the complex dates back to a 17th-

    entury reconstruction. Te rustic halls and gnarled old trees

    make or a wonderul stroll. Dont miss its small bamboo orest,

    popular photo-taking place.

    eonju Hanok Village

    Te most popular tourist destination in Jeonju, however,

    Jeonju Hanok Village, Koreas best known collection o

    raditional Korean houses outside o Seouls Bukchon district.

    ike those o Bukchon, Jeonjus traditional housesor

    Hanokdate rom the early 20th century, when urbanization

    purred new housing development. Unlike their country

    ousins, Jeonjus Hanok are densely packed along narrow alleys.

    Get a birds eye view o the village rom Omokdae Pavilionits

    lmost like a sea o black tile roos.

    Many Hanok here are still homes, but many others have

    een transormed into restaurants, cas, galleries, workshops

    and stores. Maps o the neighborhood are available at tourist

    inormation booths, but to really get a eel or it, just put on a

    pair o good walking shoes and explore.

    Byzantine gem in southwest Korea

    Not everything in Jeonjus Hanok Village is purely Korean,

    though. Te villages easiest recognized landmarkindeed, its

    one o the ew buildings here taller than one storyis Jeondong

    Catholic Cathedral, one o Koreas oldest and most beautiul

    2

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    Yang Hak-seon is running out o competitors and

    his coach is running out o superlatives.

    In October, the 21-year-old Yang became the first

    South Korean gymnast in 21 years to win back-to-back gold

    medals at the world championships, dominating the vault

    competition in Antwerp, Belgium. Tis made national team

    coach Joo Young-sam wonder whether Yangs talent will hit a

    ceiling.I was rooting or him on the sidelines, but really, he won

    all by himsel and the enjoyment is all his, Joo told reporters.

    He wasnt in ideal physical condition, and there was also

    the pressure o everyone talking that a gold medal would

    be inevitable. But he braved through it, practiced hard and

    even prepared a new technique. He earned his medal and Im

    proud o him.

    In Antwerp, Yang was not close to top physical orm due

    to back pain and having tweaked his neck in practice. Still,

    even at less than 100 percent, he was comortably better than

    everyone else in the building. Te outcome was made more

    predictable by North Koreas Ri Se-gwang, who had been

    considered Yangs closest rival but checked out early afer a

    disappointing preliminary round.

    Yang cruised through the preliminary and took care

    o business in the final, pulling off his amous Yang-

    1, a handspring triple twist named afer him, on his first

    attempt. He then executed a Lopez, a one-and-a-hal back

    somersault and three twists, on his second to score 15.553

    points overall.

    American Steven Legendre took the silver with 15.249

    points and Britains Kristian Tomas the bronze with 15.233.

    In praising Yang or his triumph in Belgium, the South

    Korean media also expressed disappointment that he did not

    showcase his new move, the Yang-2, or a sukahara triple

    with an extra hal turn. He has pledged to make his next

    namesake vault, and his competitors like Ri could bring out

    the South Koreans best next time.

    Yang wasnt in good condition and the other players didnt

    get high scores, so there was no reason or him to attempt the

    Yang-2 this time, said Kim Dae-won, vice president o the

    Korea Gymnastics Association.

    Perhaps Yang will need the Yang-2 in next years Asian

    Games, where he could be competing against Ri.

    Young Talent Emerges

    Bringing home his countrys first Olympic gold in gymnastics

    in London last year, Yang is widely considered the most

    talented gymnast to come out o South Korea. He is

    considered to have eclipsed Yoo Ok-ryul, who topped the vault

    competitions in the 1991 and 1992 world championships.

    Whether Yang is the countrys most dominant athlete in any

    sport is debatable, as that argument would probably avor Kim

    Yu-na, who reigns with authority in womens figure skating.

    But unlike Kim, Yang gets routines named afer him.

    Yang is the biggest name among a group o gifed South

    Korean gymnasts who have inspired talk o a golden

    generation in the countrys gymnastics. Kim Hee-hoo

    the countrys next-best talent in the vault, while Park

    19, showed his potential by finishing 22nd in the indiv

    round in Antwerp in his first major international even

    On the womens side, Sung Ji-hye, 17, who won silve

    2012 Asian Championships all-round, is generating t

    excitement. She finished 34th in the individual all-rou

    Antwerp with 52.065 points, leading to speculation th

    could emerge as a medal hopeul in the 2016 Olympi

    given her talent and learning curve.

    It was precisely 10 years ago when South Korea ann

    itsel as a world gymnastics power, with Kim Dae-un

    the silver medal and Yang ae-young the bronze in the

    all-round at the 2004 Athens Olympics.

    Tat memory is bittersweet or South Korea, howev

    should have been the mens all-around champion, but

    judges would not correct a mistake they made and Am

    Paul Hamm ended up with the gold.

    Fortunately, the new vault king, Yang, gives himsel

    margin o error, precluding any judging controversies

    1. Yang Hak-seon won Koreas first gold in gymnastics at the 2012 London Olympics.

    2.Yang performs his famous Yang-1 on the vault at the 2013 Summer Universiade in Kazan, Russia.

    Written byKim Tong-hyung

    A GOLDEN GENERATIONYoung Korean gymnasts leap into the big time

    4

    1

    P O R T S

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    6

    Jazz singers usually do not make their audience sob afer

    listening to their songs, unless they are at a jazz bar and

    people in the seats have had one too many cocktails. Tis

    ertainly does not occur at legendary venues like the Ttre

    u Chtelet in Paris.

    However, Nah Youn-sun brings a flood o tears to her

    udiences eyes whenever she sings Arirang, a Korean

    raditional olk song.

    Its odd enough to make audiences sob in a jazz concert,

    ut Nah, 43, sings what is considered Koreas second national

    nthem in almost all o her concerts. Koreans grew amiliar

    with the singer afer seeing her at President Park Geun-hyes

    nauguration, where she sang Arirang Fantasy with veteran

    inger Insooni, musical actress Choi Jung-won andpansori

    master Ahn Sook-seon.

    Nah, however, has a large ollowing in France and across

    urope. She was named a Chevalier o the Order o Arts and

    etters by the French government and ranks high on European

    azz charts. She has perormed on more than 200 stages in

    25 countries and despite being on oreign soil, Nah has won

    ans on the continent with a jazzy version o her motherlands

    classic tune , Arirang.

    Youd be surprised to know that I didnt come up with the

    idea o singing Arirang in our repertoire. My guitarist Ul

    Wakenius told me one day that he knew a Korean song and

    played it on his guitar. It was Arirang, and I was surprised that

    he knew it, she said.

    As Nah was looking or a Korean song to sing at her concerts,

    she asked her guitarist i he could play the tune. He confidently

    said yes, and then asked i she could sing the song, to which

    she said, What do you mean i I can sing it? Nearly everyone

    in Korea can.

    Bringing audiences to tears

    Nah and her band have since been perorming Arirang in

    nearly all o their shows. Every time, she says she is surprised to

    see audiences shedding tears while listening despite being unable

    to understand the lyrics and the meaning behind the song.

    JAZZING UP

    ARIRANGVocalist Nah Youn-sun moves Europeanaudiences with Korean folk tune

    Written byYim Seung-hye

    When I tell my riends in Korea about this experience

    [o oreign audiences getting teary-eyed while listening to

    Arirang], they dont believe me. But they really cry. Tats the

    charm o this traditional olk song, she said.

    Being born to musical parentsNahs mother is one o

    Koreas first generation o musical actresses and her ather

    is a classic vocalistit seems natural or Nah to have gone

    into music. She insists, however, that everything has been

    coincidental.

    Nah majored in French in college and her first job was

    as a copywriter at a public relations company. But afer just

    eight months, she lef her job and stayed home or months

    wondering what to do with her lie. Ten a close riend

    suggested she audition or a musical since she knew that Nah

    enjoyed singing. But as Nah knew how difficult things are or a

    musical actress by watching her mother, she was hesitant to set

    oot in the industry.

    But I thought its better to do something than nothing, so I

    auditioned and got a part in the musical Subway Line No. 1,

    said Nah. Afer perorming

    on stage, she said she

    wanted to study more and

    decided on jazz afer a

    riends suggestion.

    Nah spoke a little

    French and was a big an o

    chansons, lyric-driven French

    songs, so she boarded a plane

    to Paris at the airly late age

    o 26 to study a musical genre

    that she said she knew nothing about.

    Since leaving or France in 1995, Nah has studied a

    Jazz School and the National Music Institute o Beauv

    as the Nadia and Lili Boulanger Conservatory. In Mar

    released her eighth album, Lento, which includes he

    rendition o Arirang. In early October, the singer pe

    at the Jarasum International Jazz Festival in Korea and

    or Europe or a tour o Germany.

    11.Jazz singer Nah Youn-suns performances of the Korean folk song Arirang have moved European audiences. Nah Youn-sun

    2.Nah performs before a packed Thtre du Chtelet in Paris, France on March 25, 2013. Nah Youn-sun

    ERTAINMENT

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    8

    First held in 2001, the Gyeonggi International Ceramic

    Biennale (GICB) is one o the most prestigious events

    in the world o ceramics, bringing together artists

    and enthusiasts or a 51-day celebration o the ceramic arts.

    Under the theme, Community: With Me, With You, With

    Us, this years biennale eatures stimulating exhibits by top

    ceramic artists rom both Korea and overseas. In particular,

    the event presents an opportunity to discover transormations

    in the ceramics community vis-a-vis art and in everyday lie.

    Building a community

    Since Hongik University proessor Lee I-chin took over

    as director in 2012, the biennale, now in its seventh year,

    has reocused on the concept o sharing. Namely, as an

    internationally recognized event, it was now time or theKorean ceramics scene to give back. Te goal this year is to

    share the biennale with as many people around the world as

    possible, including young artists, ceramic educators, curators

    and specialists. Event organizers will also reach out to groups

    that have been ignored or discriminated against.

    Te GICB 2013s main event, the International Invitational

    Competition, eatures more than 50 works by 27 artists rom

    18 nations. Te competition has just one award, the grand

    prize, which comes with a sum o USD 20,000.

    Te special exhibition o the GICB 2013, Hot Rookies, is an

    omnibus exhibit eaturing works by 20 young artists, defined

    as artists under the age o 40, rom eight nations. Te theme o

    this exhibit is Paradoxical Aesthetics. All the works address

    issues o todays materialistic neo-capitalist society, including

    alienation and resistance.

    In keeping with the biennales objective o sharing and

    community-building, a special eature exhibit will comprise

    works by Koreas disabled community. Te National Ceramic

    Competition or the Disabled eatures 60 pieces by 50 artists.

    Sharing knowledge

    Te GICB 2013 has added Mentoring Camp and alks by

    Artists programs to help spread inormation and knowledge

    about the ceramic arts.

    Te camp is a three-part workshop, beginning with a

    short-term residency program and orum workshop, the

    International Ceramic Camp, eaturing invited artists rom

    1. Some of the works invited to the 2013 Gyeonggi

    International Ceramic Biennale. KOCEF

    2. Glass blowing at the 2013 Gyeonggi International

    Ceramic Biennale. KOCEF

    Written byRobert Koehler

    One of the ceramic worlds biggest events, the 2013 Gyeongginternational Ceramic Biennale refocuses on sharing and community

    REACHING OUTTHROUGH CERAMICS

    the International Invitational Competition. Te secon

    the Mentoring Camp, the raditional Korean Cerami

    ocuses on the history and aesthetics o Korean ceramworkshop event is related to ood and ceramics ocuse

    encouraging participants to abandon disposable ware

    o those o ceramics.

    Another hands-on program, Clay Workshop, Heal

    Camp, seeks to help participants overcome their emo

    scars through ceramic art. Tis amily event has exten

    particular welcome to minorities and other neglected

    society.

    Te biennale also includes a series o academic even

    including an International Ceramic Symposium (Sep

    and Oct. 24), and discussions between artists and ar

    including the alks by Artists program, a series o t

    well-known artists aimed at the general public.

    C I A L I S S U E

    2

    1

    INVITED ARTISTS, INTERNATIONAL INVITATIONAL COMPE

    Park Je-duck, Lee Hun-chung, Lee Hwa-jin, Hahn Ai-kyu an

    Young-sil (Korea); Christ Antemann, Beth Lo, Albert Pfarr

    Jeanne Quinn (United States); Li Xiaofeng and Huang Chu

    (China); Takashi Hinoda and Toshio Oh (Japan); Lee Yong

    (Taiwan); Vipoo Srivilasa (Australia/Thailand), Debashis P

    (Bangladesh); Neil Forrest (Canada); Isabel Cisneros (Ven

    Kukuli Velarde (Peru/United States); Keka Ruiz-Tagle (Chi

    Twomey (United Kingdom); Johan Creten (Belgium); Milan

    (Czech Republic); Isabel Ferrand (Portugal/Netherlands);

    Yatom (Israel); Wilma Cruise (South Africa); and Moyo Ok

    (Nigeria).

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    In the first season, the elderly actors traveled to Europe, and

    in the second they explored aiwan. Upon arrival in the island

    country, where Korean dramas and stars are quite popular, the

    grandpas unexpectedly ound hundreds o ans and dozens o

    broadcasters waiting or them.

    It was really surprising that the grandpas became a leading

    orce in Hallyu, a CJ source said, reerring to the booming

    popularity o Korean pop culture overseas, also known as the

    Korean Wave.

    Star producer

    Among other Korean reality shows that have earned export

    deals, Dad, Where Are You Going? will have its ormat

    exported to Chinas Hunan Satellite V in April. 1 Night,

    2 Days clinched a similar contract with Chinas Sichuan

    Satellite V.

    Both, Grandpas Over Flowers, and, 1 Night, 2 Days,

    are the brainchildren o producer Na Young-seok. 1 Night,

    2 Days aired on KBS, becoming one o the countrys most

    popular shows in history. Grandpas Over Flowers was Nas

    first show or CJ E&M, whither he moved afer leaving KBS last

    year.

    Na is now directing our veteran actressesYoon Yu-jeong,

    Kim Ja-ok, Kim Hee-ae and Lee Mi-yeonon a trip. Afer

    directing our actors on two trips or Grandpas over Flowers,

    he has invited the our actresses to film a show tentatively

    named, Actresses.

    Social trends

    Te explosive popularity o the three reality programs

    directly related to social trends in the country.

    Grandpas Over Flowers reflects Koreas rapidly ag

    society. Statistics Korea projects that by 2030, a ourth

    population will be aged 65 or older, and by 2050, the

    will be among the worlds oldest societies, with 37 per

    senior citizens.

    Dad, Where Are You Going? shows the growing t

    Korea or both the mother and the ather to share the

    o childrearing as more women seek to continue their

    afer marriage and having given birth.

    1 Night, 2 Days has spurred interest in outdoor ac

    Outdoor gear brands now take up the best spots at Ko

    department stores and in newspaper ads.

    Koreas entertainment industry also seems to have t

    ull support o its government. Te Ministry o Scienc

    and Future Planning and the Ministry o Culture, Spor

    ourism announced in October that they plan to raise

    exports rom USD 4.8 billion to 10 billion by 2017.

    President Park Geun-hye said on Sept. 3, Broadcas

    is the key to the ecosystem o a creative media industry

    adding, I hope to see a virtuous circle in which comp

    content gets its values recognized, investment is made

    more competitive content is created. [] I pledge my

    support to ease regulations and to develop the techno

    0

    1. Dad, Where Are You Going? MBC 2.Grandpas Over Flowers tvN 3.Vietnamese fans flock to see the recording of Running Man, a popular Korean reality sh

    Gone are the days when Korean entertainment

    shows were considered mere copies o ormats

    rom abroad. Producers o hit reality shows in

    Korea have nowadays inked export deals with many Asian

    ountries, proving their competitiveness in the overseas

    market.

    Te cable channel vNs Grandpas Over Flowers eatures

    Korean celebrities in their 70s backpacking around Europe

    nd other countries. MBCs Dad, Where Are You Going? has

    amous athers bonding with their children on trips, breaking

    he stereotype o Korean mothers being the primary caregivers.

    KBSs 1 Night, 2 Days, a long-running outdoor reality show,

    s credited with starting a camping boom in Korea.

    Deals inked

    For starters, Grandpas Over Flowers, one o the biggest

    surprise hits o the year, is finding plenty o interest around

    Asia, with export deals signed with channels in aiwan and

    Hong Kong.

    A spokesperson at CJ E&Ms global content team said in

    September, Te show has been sold to aiwans largest cable

    channel EBC and Hong Kongs largest private broadcaster

    VB, and this came afer only three episodes were aired,

    adding, Its rare to sell a program beore it completes its run.

    CJ E&M, a broadcast affiliate o CJ, one o Koreas largest

    conglomerates, owns the channel that aired the show, vN, and

    produced it.

    Te Korean Wave scores yet another hit Written by Kim Hyung-eun

    RENT KOREA

    KOREANREALITY SHOWS

    1 2

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    President Park Geun-hye spent early October in

    Southeast Asia. She attended: the Asia-Pacific

    Economic Cooperation (APEC) Meeting in Bali,

    ndonesia, Oct. 68; the Association o Southeast Asian

    Nations (ASEAN) +3 Summit, the 16th Korea-ASEAN

    ummit and the eighth East Asia Summit in Brunei, Oct. 810;

    nd paid a state visit to Indonesia, Oct. 1012.

    APEC Meetings

    resident Park was on the Indonesian island o Bali to

    ttend the APEC Economic Leaders Meeting rom Oct. 68.

    he delivered a keynote address entitled, Te Business o

    Innovation: Why Does It Matter? to the APEC CEO Summit

    on Oct. 6. In it, she said she believes that a creative economy is

    key to an innovative paradigm that can help bring economic

    growth, not just to Korea, but to all nations, through mutual

    opening and cooperation. o reach that goal, she stressed the

    need to overcome the barriers o regulation, finance, education

    and international borders.

    Tis was the second time or the president to speak at a

    global gathering about the importance o the creative economy.

    Te first was at the G-20 summit in St. Petersburg, Russia, in

    September.

    In the first session o the APEC Leaders Meeting, President

    Park delivered a speech on APECs Role in Strengthening the

    Multilateral rading System. She said, A ree trade policy

    is the most efficient and has the lowest cost. It can help with

    economic revitalization and job creation and can improve

    consumer welare, all without having to shoulder a financial

    burden.

    President Park stressed the importance o harmonizing

    macroeconomic and monetary policies to bring about a global

    1. President Park delivers a keynote address during the APEC CEO Sum

    2. President Park meets with Indonesian President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono. 3. Participants at APEC Indonesia 2013 pose for a commem

    INNOVATION, OPENNESS,INVESTMENTPresident Park stresses creative industries, reducing barriers at APEC

    MIT DIPLOMACY

    2

    1

    economic recovery. She added that the mutual openin

    economies was important or recovery, citing Koreas

    recovery rom two financial crises. o promote ree tr

    emphasized a stronger multilateral trading system ba

    World rade Organization (WO) agreements, a resp

    protectionism and the coordination o regional integr

    Warning against protectionism, she urged APEC m

    move orward toward regional integration. All count

    to make an effort so that discussions on regional integ

    can move orward in a transparent manner within AP

    said. Tis will help realize the goal o a multilateral r

    area o the Asia Pacific (FAAP), one o the long-term

    APEC.

    In the meetings second session on Oct. 8, President

    proposed boosting private inrastructure investment,

    support or the Indonesia-sponsored APEC Framewo

    Connectivity and the APEC Multi-year Plan on Inra

    Development and Investment. Stressing the importan

    inrastructure, she said, It takes large long-term inve

    to build inrastructure. Tere is a limit to public finan

    it is necessary to promote the private sectors involvem

    inrastructure investment.

    She asked multilateral development banks like the W

    Bank and the Asia Development Bank to cooperate in

    removing barriers aced by private investment.

    2

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    SOUTHEAST ASIANDIPLOMACYKorea boosts ties with Southeast Asia and Oceania during presidential visitsto Brunei, Indonesia

    MIT DIPLOMACY

    held by Korea and Tailand in May.

    Also on Oct 10, President Park attended the

    ASEAN+3 Summit, where she praised the progress

    ASEAN has made in member cooperation,

    including the launch o the Chiang Mai Initiative,

    the ASEAN+3 Macroeconomic Research Office and

    the ASEAN+3 Emergency Rice Reserve. She also

    welcomed the scheduled 2020 launch o the East

    Asian Community. o boost physical, institutional

    and people-to-people links within ASEAN,

    she expressed interest in building an East Asia

    single window trade acilitation system to create

    communication channels between universities

    across the region.

    Participating leaders at the ASEAN+3 Summit,

    meanwhile, welcomed President Parks NortheastAsian peace initiative.

    Summit with IndonesianPresident Yudhoyono

    Afer the ASEAN +3 Summit, President Park flew

    to Indonesia or a state visit rom Oct. 1012,

    highlighted by a bilateral summit with Indonesian

    President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono in J

    In their talks, the two leaders agreed to c

    a comprehensive economic partnership ag

    (CEPA), a orm o ree trade pact, by years

    President Park said, A Korea-Indonesia

    comprehensive economic partnership agre

    will contribute to achieving the trade volum

    boosting trade rom USD 30 billion last yea

    100 billion by 2020] and institutionalize ec

    cooperation between the two countries. W

    to conclude negotiations by years end.

    Bilateral trade has doubled since 2007 an

    Indonesia is Koreas largest target or inves

    Southeast Asia. In particular, both countri

    grown closer through deense industry pro

    both leaders agreed to expand this cooperPresident Yudhoyono and I agreed to c

    closely to expand South Korean companie

    participation in new deense industry proj

    ensuring that existing deense cooperation

    such as the export o Korean-made advanc

    jets and submarines, move orward smoot

    President Park said.

    Upon the conclusion o the APEC

    Leaders Meeting, President Park Geun-

    hye traveled to Brunei to attend the

    ASEAN +3 Summit, the 16th Korea-ASEAN

    ummit and the eighth East Asia Summit. On Oct.

    , she held bilateral summits with the leaders o

    runei, Singapore, Australia and Myanmar and

    iscussed matters o mutual interest.

    At the East Asia Summit (EAS) on Oct. 10,

    President Park discussed climate change, disaster

    control, ood and energy security and cooperation

    among East Asian countries. She backed the

    Brunei-sponsored declaration o the 8th East Asia

    Summit on Food Security, and emphasized the need

    to jointly respond to natural disasters, especially

    in the ace o climate change. As an example o

    such efforts, she cited the ASEAN Regional Forum

    Disaster Relie Exercise, a joint disaster rescue drill

    1. President Park and

    Indonesian President

    Susilo Bambang

    Yudhoyono hold extended

    summit talks in Jakarta,

    Oct. 12.

    2. President Park meets

    with Sultan Hassanal

    Bolkiah of Brunei at Brunei

    International Convention

    Center, Oct. 9.

    3. President Park shakes

    hands with Australian

    Prime Minister Tony

    Abbott in Brunei on Oct. 9.

    4

    1

    2 3

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    welcomed by animators, especially at a time when animated

    content is taking off within the Korean entertainment industry.

    Likewise, regulations used to prevent actories rom building

    temporary warehouses to store their raw materials. Companies

    resorted to covering raw materials with canvas, meaning that

    the materials requently got wet in the rain or snow. Many

    others built structures with panel roos, ully knowing that it

    was illegal. Now, actory owners can build warehouses with

    walls and roos made o plastic and other synthetic resins.

    Regulatory reorm has also impacted hiring. Prior to July

    2013, Korean companies had to keep the percentage o oreign

    staff to under 20 percent o their workorce, though high-

    tech companies and certain blue-chip exporters were allowed

    to hire up to hal. Tis proved burdensome or small and

    medium-size exporters. A staff o 10 meant a company could

    hire at most two oreigners. Tat limit no longer applies to

    small and medium-size companies i they can show that they

    need specialized oreign staff.

    o see these regulations in action, consider the example o

    Kim Dae-yeol, a medicinal herb and ruit grower in the East

    Sea coastal town o Gangneung. Te Korea Forest Service

    operates a program to help small-scale herbal producers

    who lack a sales network. Te program also allows small-

    scale producers to share inormation. Unortunately or Kim,

    the rules said an applicant had to be under the age o 50 to

    join. Earlier this year, however, the age limit was raised to

    55, and Kim was allowed to join the program. In addition to

    financial support, he also benefits rom cultivation know-how,

    distribution inormation and even training programs

    Regulatory reorm is also making Korea saer. Lee J

    office worker in the southern Seoul suburb o Seongn

    recently the victim o a phishing scam that resulted in

    bill o about USD 250,000. Tis was because regulatio

    not require that a user approve a cell phone payment b

    it was made. In September, however, the government

    regulations so that users first need to approve paymen

    they are made.

    Regulatory Control Tower Create

    In September, the Joint Regulatory Reorm Bureau wa

    as a regulatory control tower linking the government

    Korea Chamber o Commerce and Industry and the K

    Federation o Small and Medium Businesses. Te goa

    bureau is to remove regulatory actors that cause inco

    and hence resolve difficulties or investment expansio

    creation.

    Tis and the government promotion effort are part

    larger campaign launched in May, to pull thorns rom

    fingernails, to boost economic activity among small a

    medium-size businesses. Te government says bad re

    must be removed so that smaller businesses can grow

    social underdogs can make it. So ar, 1,133 such thor

    been identified; more than 200 have been corrected th

    regulatory reorm. According to the Bank o Korea, i

    percent o government regulations are relaxed, it wou

    productivity by 0.3 percent.

    I C Y R E V I E W

    LESS THORNS, MORE TALKGovernment moves to ease regulations and promote communication

    Written by Shin Yesol

    6

    he Prime Ministers Office o Korea is pushing

    a series o measures to allow businesses and

    individuals to more easily find and make use o

    dministrative services through regulatory reorm.

    Te actions are part o a larger effort to promote public

    wareness o government efforts to reorm regulations and

    mplement the Park Geun-hye administrations Government

    .0 Paradigm.

    As a start, Seoul has begun publishing a collection o

    egulatory reorms to benefit the public, entitled, Regulatory

    Reorm alk alk. Te first volume, Removing the Torns

    nd Growing Hope, looks at 43 examples rom 23 government

    ministries and departments. Divided into two parts, Economic

    Revival and Public Happiness and Cultural Enrichment, the

    book uses illustrations and storytelling so that companies and

    individuals can make better use o it.

    Rationalizing Regulations

    Te regulatory reorm efforts cover a wide range o areas. In the

    economic sector, many o the blind spots that had previously

    plagued Koreas regulatory system have been corrected,

    creating opportunities or previously overlooked groups.

    For instance, cartoonists and animators had been lef out o

    the governments investment recognition project or start-ups

    as both investment amount and project returns in this sector

    were low. As a result, animators had a tough time finding

    investment regardless o whether or not they had a good

    idea. Te inclusion o animation into the program has been

    1.Gripin CEO Yun Jeong-jin.

    Yuns one-man company

    manufactures mobile phone

    accessories. Recently reformed

    regulations expanded

    eligibility for benefits for one-

    man creative companies from22 industries to 28, including

    accessories. Gripin

    2.Seo Jeong-cheol of office

    furniture manufacturer KOAS.

    Changes in Public Procurement

    Service regulations now

    exempt from separate quality

    screenings companies with

    certified internal quality

    control systems such as KOAS.

    Kim Hyeon-dong,

    JoongAng Ilbo Sisa Media1 2

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    ATIVE TECHNOLOGY

    the wind turbine stands 70 meters above sea level and has three

    blades with a rotor diameter o 72 meters.

    Offshore wind power can make use o avorable wind

    speeds, and unlike land-based wind arms, they ace little

    opposition rom local residents.

    Te institute will also build a 10-gigawatt floating offshore

    wind turbine complex by 2030 in close collaboration with the

    Korea Advanced Institute o Science and echnology. When

    the complex is completed, wind power is expected to reduce

    the emission o 380 tons o carbon dioxide annually.

    Te JGRC has been ocusing on generating electricity

    through the use o osmotic pressure produced between resh

    water (with low salinity) and salt water (high salinity).

    When researchers establish a thin layer o semi-permeable

    material, the membrane, between resh water and salt water,

    water (as a chemical solvent) moves rom the ormer to the

    latter and naturally produces pressure tantamount to the power

    o water alling directly rom a height o 240 meters.

    Researchers say that because seawater is unlimited, the

    potential to generate electricity rom it is enormous, adding

    that it is eco-riendly and requires no ossil uels.

    Te JGRC is ocusing on building a power plant that can

    utilize differences in salinity as an effective energy-saving

    system. I successul, this will be one o the most promising

    next-generation methods o power generation or a power-

    addicted nation. Korea suffered three blackouts last ye

    low power reserves.

    Deep-sea Mining Robot Tested

    Te Ministry o Oceans and Fisheries has conducted

    countrys first test o a deep-sea mining robot, which

    say could enable the mining o resources in the Pacifi

    worth billions o dollars.

    In July this year, the Korean-built robot MineRo fin

    a maneuverability test at a depth o 1,370 meters in w

    130 kilometers off Pohang, a port city along the nation

    southeastern coast. Te 25-ton MineRo, whose name

    compound o mineral and robot, weighs just nine

    when underwater.

    With the test, the nation has obtained key domesti

    technology or submarine navigation and or the expl

    manganese ore in deep waters.

    By 2015 the government will also develop cutting-e

    technologies required or extracting and refining met

    according to ministry officials.

    In 2002, Korea acquired exclusive rights to explore

    maritime zone in the Pacific Ocean some 2,000 kilom

    southeast o Hawaii. Known as the Clarion-Clipperto

    the area reportedly stores an estimated 560 million to

    manganese ore deposits valued at US$370 billion.

    Korea goes to the seas in search of energy andminerals

    Expanding OffshoreWind Turbines

    Written by Sohn Tae-soo

    1. MineRo, a Korean-built deep sea mining robot, enters the water for a maneuverability test.2. Korean Institute of Ocean Science and Technology researchers pose for a photo after the successful testing of the MineRo. Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Techn

    8

    1 2

    As part o the Korean governments plans to

    promote cutting-edge technology to reap

    economic gains, the nation is researching

    power generation offshore and exploring deep-sea

    resources.

    Te state-run Korea Institute o Energy Research

    (KIER) has expanded offshore wind power generation

    off the coast o Jejudo. It has also begun operation o

    a power-generating turbine by using osmotic pressure

    rom salt water. Most recently, the government also

    tested the maneuverability o its first deep-sea mining

    robot afer decades o research.

    Te national project o offshore wind power

    generation has moved a step orward through the

    construction o a 2-megawatt offshore wind turbine, the

    first o its kind in the nation. Te Jeju Global Research

    Center (JGRC), an affiliate o KIER, is in charge o the

    project.

    Approximately 1.5 kilometers rom the Jejudo shore,

    Wind farm on southern island of Jejudo.

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    raising consciousness about volunteer work, they are greatly

    helping to spread a volunteer culture, and we're grateul to

    them or that. It eels great each time I see students who wanted

    to do volunteer work but didn't have the chance, building good

    memories, broadening their experience, changing their ways o

    thinking and developing new dreams or the uture, she says.

    Corporate support

    Steelmaker POSCO, one o Korea's largest conglomerates, has

    run BeyondPOSCO Global Youth Volunteers since 2007.

    Its overseas volunteer work in conjunction with the HFHK

    has been conducted in countries generally considered strategic

    partners by POSCO, such as Tailand, Vietnam and Indonesia.

    Earlier this year, the company sent a team o around 100

    student volunteers to the Indian village o Bawana, northwesto New Delhi, or a house-building project that marked its sixth

    year. Te volunteers took part in all stages o construction,

    rom preparing oundations to painting walls. Tis years 12-

    day project was o significance because it was in Bawana that

    Beyond volunteers built their first homes in 2008.

    Kia Motors runs the Happy Move Global Youth Volunteer

    Corps, another major youth volunteer program that sends

    around 1,000 college students to developing countries during

    university vacations. Previous projects have included rebuilding

    a village in Chinas Sichuan Province afer the devastating 2008

    earthquake and other projects in Brazil, the Czech Re

    urkey and Malawi. Now in its 11th year, the program

    teams to China, India, Malaysia and Indonesia this su

    Building a new future

    Tese projects are more than just about bricks and m

    they have had a proound effect on the lives o those i

    I theres one thing were even more proud o than th

    weve built around the world, it's the change weve bro

    about in people, says Shin. What makes us most pro

    when we hear the stories o amilies whose parents fin

    motivation in lie when they move into a newly built

    and start harboring new hope or the uture as their c

    start to perorm better at school and find emotional s

    over the years, and the stories o volunteers who get tas they tell us that they started out wanting to help oth

    ended up gaining more or themselves.

    Te HFHK is looking to help more child-led house

    senior citizens living alone, multicultural amilies and

    parent households in Korea, as well as expand the cou

    role in providing housing assistance to developing co

    and areas hit by natural disasters. Shin says, Habitat i

    building houses o hope that transorm the lives o all

    involved.

    1, 3. Volunteers with

    POSCOs Beyond program

    in India Habitat for

    Humanity Korea

    2.Kia MotorsHappy

    Move Global Youth

    Volunteer Corps in China

    Habitat for Humanity

    Korea

    As the scope and variety o Koreas official

    development assistance increase, the

    country's nonprofit organizations and

    rivate sector are also doing their part to share

    heir resources and expertise abroad. Over the

    ast 10 years, collaborations among NGOs, major

    onglomerates and young volunteers have begunroducing results both at home and overseas.

    Among the various programs, efforts to provide

    ousing or those in need have been particularly

    uccessul.

    Multilateral partnerships

    Habitat or Humanity Korea (HFHK) is at the

    oreront o efforts to provide proper shelter to

    amilies in Korea and abroad. Dedicated to making

    adequate, affordable shelter as well as eliminating

    substandard housing and homelessness, the

    organization was incorporated in 1995 and has

    provided essential help to more than 3,000 amilies

    in Korea and 7,000 abroad with help rom sponsors

    and volunteers.

    We are supported by many organizations

    including the Korea Housing Guarantee, POSCO,

    Kookmin Bank and Binggrae, says Shin Ye-eun,

    Public Relations and Communications Manager at

    the HFHK.

    Shin is particularly appreciative o corporations

    sponsoring youth volunteer programs. By

    providing large-scale support and systematically

    BUILDING HOUSES OF HOPEHabitat for Human Korea teams up with corporate giants for global projects

    Written by Ben Jackson

    0

    O B A L K O R E A

    1

    2 3

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    E A T K O R E A N

    1. Portrait of

    2.Yis childh

    Ojukheon in

    Gangwon-do1

    YI I

    Written byFelix Im

    Leading Confucian scholar and statesmanworked to modernize Confucian thought

    2

    Have you ever wondered about the

    aces that grace Korean currency?

    Youve probably peered at the ace

    o Yi I on the KRW 5,000 bill several times

    without realizing who he was or what he did.

    Also known by his pen name o Yulgok,

    Yi is ofen remembered as one o the most

    prominent Conucian scholars o the Joseon

    Dynasty, responsible or modernizing

    traditional Conucian thought, turning it into

    practical policies that streamlined the central

    and provincial governments.

    Born to Be a Scholar

    Born to a government official ather and anaccomplished calligraphist mother, Yi was a

    highly gifed scholar rom an early age. He

    was known to have started writing poetry and

    literary works at age 8, at which point he had

    learned the basics o the Conucian classics.

    He passed his first civil service exam at 13

    with the intent o starting a career as a civil

    administrator. With the sudden death o his

    mother when he was 16, however, he secluded

    himsel in the mountains next to her grave

    or three years under a common practice o

    the times called simyoto honor the death o a

    parent. He studied Buddhism all the while.

    At 20, afer composing a detailed work o

    personal sel-reflection, he returned to normal

    lie, continued his Conucian studies, and got

    married at 22.

    Clearly, Yis time spent away rom society had

    no detrimental effect on his scholarly abilities,

    which he proved by passing all o his civil

    service exams (conducted in several stages)

    with top honors nine consecutive times. Over

    this period, he composed the highly praised

    thesis, Cheondochaek , Book on the Way to

    Heaven, on Conucian philosophys relation to

    politics. Tis was eventually considered a great

    literary work by later Conucian scholars.

    Trusted by Royalty

    Upon entering the government sector, Yi went to

    work as an administrator checking and balancing

    King Seonjos executive decisions. Afer serving as

    a document official or Chinas Ming Dynasty, he

    began to write and edit royal historical documents,

    including the prominentMyeongjong Annals.

    Yi eventually held many offices and continually

    wrote treatises on royal policy and the application o

    Conucian ideals to practical politics. He presented

    these documents to the royal court as administrative

    guides. One o his most widely known works is the

    Dongho Mundap, which described Yis thoughts

    on an ideal and righteous government. His wide

    range o political experience gave him expertise in anumber o administrative areas and earned him the

    trust o the king, whose court called on him several

    times or his services.

    Internal Disagreement

    Te royal court, however, was a tumultuous arena

    with a complex structure and unpredictable politics.

    On numerous occasions, internal political conflict

    prompted Yi to leave his official duties and flee to

    the countryside and resume his scholarly interests.

    During these times, he reflected on and developed

    his personal philosophy while constantly writing.

    Always thinking o the welare and wisdom o

    uture generations, he also wrote works on the

    education o his disciples and successors. Afer

    an erratic period o leaving office and then being

    recalled to duty by the royal court, he lef his final

    post as coordinator o national security and military

    operations in 1583. He died the ollowing year in

    Seoul at age 48.

    Part o the controversy that surrounded Yi and

    his ideals stemmed rom his long-held conviction

    o building a proper continental army to deend

    against oreign invasion, something that many

    officials considered unlikely at the time. Yi, however,

    was convinced that the Japanese were an imminentthreat, and was vindictated when the Imjin War

    erupted in 1592 soon afer his death.

    Yi in Daily Life

    In addition to his ace being on the KRW 5,000

    note, Yi has also been commemorated in modern

    times. Yulgok-ro is a street in central Seoul named

    afer his pseudonym Yulgok. Te Yulgok Project,

    which sought to modernize the South Korean

    Military, was also named afer Yi due to his keen

    sense o national security and deense.

    2

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    When the skies turn blue and the hillsides crimson, Korea is at its best

    AUTUMN COLORS

    Written byCurtis File

    lustrated by Kim Yoon-Myong

    Any expat that has lived in Korea

    or more than a month has

    undoubtedly been treated to one

    or more short lectures on the countrys

    our distinct seasons. Along with Korean

    ood, the weather and seasons are avored

    topics or taxi and water cooler small talk,

    especially among the older generation.

    Tough seemingly an odd point o pride

    at first, it begins to make sense when

    considering the degree to which Korean

    culture revolves around the seasons.

    Recreation, cuisine and holidays are all

    related to seasonal change. While every time

    o the year brings new activities to explore,there is perhaps no better time to see the

    country than in all.

    Te crisp autumn air is rereshment rom

    the hellish humidity o the summer monsoon

    months. I first arrived in Korea just as all was

    beginning. In a matter o a ew weeks, I was

    invited to my first real autumn experience

    in Korea: a hike up Mt. Dobongsan on the

    outskirts o northern Seoul or a day o

    viewing danpung, or the changing o the

    leaves. It was in that season that I ound my

    love or Koreas natural beauty.

    Tough I heard that Korea had a strong

    hiking community and had imagined that

    the mountain trails would attract a healthy

    handul o outdoor enthusiasts, I wasnt quite

    prepared or the crowds that flocked to the

    tiny town that day. Hoards o people filled the

    restaurant stalls at the base o the mountainserving every manner o Korean specialties,

    rom salted fish to steamed silkworm larvae.

    It wasnt just the crowds I wasnt prepared or

    though.

    Coming rom the Canadian countryside,

    I am used to colorul alls and beautiul

    scenery, but I still could not have imagined

    the view on the hike up those rocks.

    entire mountain ace was covered in

    red, orange and yellow hues that rol

    over the hills into the distance. From

    peak, I could see where small arms

    into valleys met the edge o the city.

    among the most beautiul views o K

    can remember.

    Outdoor Community

    Equally surprising was the spirit o t

    outdoor community. Hiking may be

    ages activity, but in Korea, the rule s

    to be the older, the better. While I w

    aced and gasping or air, more than

    couple past their 70s flew by me wit

    breaking a sweat. Te all spirit o lo

    generosity was alive and well. One c

    even pulled me aside to share