KOREA magazine [Apr. 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 4]

8/9/2019 KOREA magazine [Apr. 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 4]

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April 2010 www.korea.net

People & Culture

KOREASYOUNG SPORTS

HEROES


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PRELUD

Koreas BeautyThe Iksan Historic

Areas, located on a flatland in Koreas south-

west, feature a series of remains from the days

of the ancient Baekje Kingdom (c.18 BC

AD 660). Currently under restoration, the

Stone pagoda of the Mireuksa Temple Site

(pictured on this page), is Koreas national

treasure No. 11, and echoes an ancient town

where a highly advanced culture once flour-ished. The Iksan Historic Areas, including

Mireuksa Temple Site, Wanggung-ri and

Ipjeom-ri, were included on UNESCOs

Tentative List of World Heritage sites in

January 2010.


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CONTENTSAPRIL 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 4

PUBLISHER Seo Kang-soo,

Korean Culture and Information Service

EDITING HEM KOREA Co., Ltd

E-MAIL [email protected]

PRINTING Samsung Moonwha Printing Co.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartof thispublicationmabereproducedinanyformwithoutpermissionfroKOREA andthe KoreanCulture andInformationService.

Thearticles publishedin KOREA donot necessarrepresenttheviewsofthe publisher.Thepublishnotliableforerrorsoromissions.

Lettersto theeditorshouldincludethewritersfunameandaddress.Lettersmay beeditedforclaand/orspace restrictions.

Ifyouwantto receivea freecopyofKOREA orwisto cancela subscription,pleasee-mail us.

AdownloadablePDF fileofKOREA anda mapanglossarywith commonKoreanwords appearingintextareavailableby clickingonthe thumbnailofKOREA onthe homepageof www.korea.net.

: 11-1110073-000016-06

COVER STORY 04

Korea caused quite an upset at the recent

Vancouver Winter Olympics by taking fifth

place in the medals table. Thrillingly, the

future looks even more promising.

TRAVEL 26

Spring is in the air in Yeosu, so when bet-

ter to take in the maritime scenery, natu-

ral splendor and rousing military history of

this southern coastal city?

MY KOREA 32

Looking for a place to take a relaxing

bath, indulge in snacks or take a nap?

Koreas jjimjilbangis the ultimate setting

for a soothing night in.

INTERNATIONAL 36

CONFERENCE

Next month, Seoul plays host to the sec-

ond UNESCO World Conference on Arts

Education. With delegates from around

the world, the conference will disuss arts

education, a field with a crucial role to

play in promoting intercultural exchange

and understanding.

GLOBAL KOREA 40

Renewable energy is booming, and the

brightest lights of clean energy will be on

show at this months Daegu Green Energy

Expo event.

NOW IN KOREA

With each passing year, Koreas young

artists grow more daring and inventive.

You can see some of the best on the

streets of Hongdae and Daehangno.

PEN & BRUSH 16

With a string of challenging, highly original

works stretching back 15 years, Kim

Young-ha is one of Koreas most popular

novelists with his extraordinary ideas.

PRESIDENTIAL ACTIVITIES 20

For much of President Lee Myung-baks

first two years in office, Cheongwadae

Press Corps followed him on his trips

around the country.

www.korea.ne


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YonhapnewsAgency

In the world of sports, Korea is no longer an underdog.Already renowned for its remarkable economic growth in theaftermath of the Korean War (1950-53), Korea has increas-ingly proven itself as a sporting power, too. In South Africathis year,the small peninsula nation will be competing in its

seventh consecutive World Cup and, around a year ago, tooksecond place in the World Baseball Classic.At the most recentVancouver Winter Olympics, Korea took gold medals inspeed skating and figure skating to achieve an impressivefifth-place overall finish. In addition, Korean athletes consis-tently score big wins in both mens and womens golf.Here,KOREA meets some of the countrys most talented sportsstars, whose success has swept through the nation on a waveof adulation. by Jeong Se-yeong

COVER STORY

Kim Yu-na, 2010 Winter Olympic champion in ladies singles figure skat


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At this years Vancouver Winter Olympics, Kore

claimed six gold, six silver and two bronze

medals to accomplish its best ever finish. As

Koreas athletes repeatedly prevailed against

sporting powerhouses from Europe and North

America, the international media hailed a rema

able achievement by a country that had traditio

ally been a winter sports minnow.

As much as these results triggered pride in a

jubilant home nation, the success will be felt in

more lasting ways. According to the Korea Spor

Promotion Foundation, the economic ripple effe

of the Olympics is approximately 6.5 trillion won

(US$57 billion), while the Samsung Economic

Research Institute (SERI) predicts that the 201

Vancouver Winter Olympics will generate about

20.2 trillion won (US$17.8 billion) worth of pro-

motional benefits for Korea.

VICTORY IN VANCOUVER Though Korea had ta

ed gold at previous Winter Olympic events, prio

to the 2006 Turin Games they all came via sho

track, which earned the country the rather unfla

tering epithet of The Short Track Republic.

Desperate to shed their reputation as a winter

sports one-trick pony, Koreans all over the coun

try were willing their team to bring back medals

other events this time around.

Their prayers were answered. Right at the

beginning of the Vancouver Games, 22-year-old

Lee Seung-hoon won silver in the mens 5,000

speed skating event. As well as being a delight

for his fans, Lees victory was also a considera

Gold medalist Mo Tae-bum competes at the Vancouver Winter Olympics(opposite). Kim Yu-na, gold medalist in ladies singles figure skating,reacts to the crowd (above left). Team Korea poses with their medals(above right). Gold medalist Lee Seung-hoon is lifted onto the shouldersof his fellow athletes at an awards ceremony (below).

YonhapnewsAg

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surprise: in a sport traditionally dominated by the

European racers, Lees medal was the first won

by any Asian in speed skating events of 5,000m

or longer.

But Lee had more surprises up his sleeve. On

February 24, in an event he had competed in just

twice before at the international level, Lee

stunned the skating world by winning gold in the

10,000m speed skating event, after all-time

favorite Sven Kramer was disqualified for a lane

violation. The silver and bronze medalists who

shared the podium with Lee Seung-hoon celebrat-ed the arrival of a new champion by hoisting Lee

on their shoulders.

As hoped, Korea continued its winning streak in

its traditional stronghold, short track. In the

500m womens and mens speed skating events,

Lee Sang-hwa and Mo Tae-bum won respective

golds, marking the first time in the history of the

sport that skaters from the same country were

victorious in both events.

On top of being gold medal winners, Lee

Seung-hoon, Mo Tae-bum and Lee Sang-hwa

share deeper bonds. All hail from Korea National

Sport University and are close friends. All three

are recognized at the top level of skating despite

coming from very modest backgrounds. After fail-

ing to make the short track team last year, Lee

Seung-hoon was so short of money that he had to

borrow skates to practice speed skating. Mo, a

picture of happiness at the ceremony, had been

the archetypal bad boy in his teenage years,

choosing to ride his motorbike rather than study

or even train sports.

LIFE CHANGING MOMENTS As for Lee Sang-hwa,

the hardships she had overcome made her a sym-

bol of hope for many back in Korea. With so little

money in her family, Lees brother had been

forced to forgo his own dreams of skating glory so

that Lee herself could continue with her training.

Lees parents, too, made tremendous sacrifices

for the success of their daughter, and Lee never

forgot the debt of gratitude she owed them. Aged

12, she wrote her parents a letter saying, If I

become a successful skater, Ill buy you every-

thing from a washing machine and a gas stove to

a fridge. Later on, Lee demonstrated her burning

ambition with an entry in her diary that read, I

want to be famous. I want to be in the news. I

want to make the national team. And, as her b

day approached, Lee marked it on her calendar

with the simple words Life-Changing Moment.

Nevertheless, Koreas greatest triumph came

with the girl the Korean press were to dub Que

Yu-na. In two near-perfect rounds of jumps,

pirouettes and ornate hand gestures, Kim Yu-na

blew away her closest rival with a record-breaki

score of 228.56. Hillary Clinton, the U.S.

Secretary of State, said she stayed up well into

the night to watch Kims performance, which sh

described as extraordinary.

Indeed, Koreas overall performance stunned

the sports world. Im sure I could sense a hint

envy when overseas journalists asked me how

such a small country could have done so well,

said Park Sung-in, the Korean teams captain.

But as well as being a great measure of pride,

Koreas excellent performance in Vancouver ha

greatly boosted our chances of hosting the 201

Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang.

THE PARK JI-SUNG EFFECT But as much as

Koreas recent success may have appeared to

have come out of nowhere, it is in many ways a

culmination of ever-increasing sports prowess

stretching back several decades. The story larg

began in 1978, when Cha Bum-kun, the first

Korean athlete to make it big overseas, began

career in the Bundesliga, the top league in

German soccer. Scoring 98 goals in 308 appea

Speed skater Lee Sang-hwa carries the Korean flag at the VancouverWinter Olympics (opposite). Cha Bum-kun was the first footballer toadvance overseas (above left). Footballer Park Chu-young plays for ASMonaco (above right). Park Ji-sung, who plays for Manchester United, isthe captain of the South Korean national team (below).

YonhapnewsAgency


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ances with Eintracht Frankfurt and Bayer 04

Leverkusen, and 55 in 121 games for the Korean

national team (still a record), Cha was later

named Asias Player of the Century by the

International Federation of Football History and

Statistics (IFFHS).

Though several Korean football players since

Cha have plied their trade overseas, none came

close to repeating his success until Park Ji-sung.

A star of the national team that stormed all the

way to the semi-finals during the 2002 Korea-

Japan World Cup, Park followed then national

team manager Guus Hiddink to the Netherlands,

where the pair worked together at PSV Eindhoven.

Thriving in his new environment, Park was an inte-

gral part of a team that reached the semi-finals of

the 2004-2005 UEFA Champions League. It was

this run that brought Park to the attention of his

next club, and one of the biggest teams in the

world, Manchester United.

Today, players such as Park Chu-young, Lee

Chung-yong and Ki Sung-yong who play, respec-

tively, for AS Monaco in France, Bolton Wanderers

in England and Celtic in Scotland are making

their mark in some of Europes top leagues. And

they are, in large part, beneficiaries of the Park

Ji-sung Effect. In a way, said a Korean sports

agent working in Europe, the fact that Park Ji-

Sung is playing for Manchester United is more

influential in opening up Korean sports to the rest

of the world than the 2002 World Cup was.

On the other side of the Atlantic, Park Chan-ho,

now a pitcher with the New York Yankees, has

played a major role in boosting the image of

Korean sports since joining the Los Angeles

Dodgers back in 1994. As of 2009, he had 120

wins (95 losses) and a 4.35 ERA. He needs only

four more wins to become the Asian pitcher with

the most wins in history.

With news of his victories streaming in from the

United States, Park helped provide the Korean

public with hope and courage amid one of its

darkest hours in the modern era, the Asian

Financial Crisis of 1997-1998. Since then, sever-

al Korean baseball players have since followedPark into the Majors, such as, Choo Shin-soo (27,

Cleveland Indians) who is now a member of the

20-20 club (20 homers, 20 steals), and who fin-

ished the 2009 season with a .300 batting aver-

age, the first Asian baseball player to accomplish

this feat in the Majors.

THE SE-RI KIDS In the world of gold, Pak Se-ri

has had similar success on the fairways. Since

turning pro in 1996, she has won 30 events,

including the Korean LPGA Tour, as well as victo-

ries in majors, the McDonalds LPGA Champion-

ship and the U.S. Womens Open. In November

2007, at the very young age of 29, she was

inducted into the World Golf Hall of Fame.

Her outstanding performances over the years

has inspired a new generation of Korean golfers.

Affectionately dubbed Se-ri Kids, these golfing

proteges are now growing to dominate the LPGA.

As of 2009, Korean women have won 88 tourna-

ments on the LPGA. On the mens side, Yang

Yong-eun wrote himself into the record books in

2009 when chasing down Tiger Woods to become

the first Asian to win the PGA Championship.

In fact, the most encouraging part of Koreas

growing sports prowess is that the generation of

athletes inspired by the likes of Park Ji-sung and

Pak Se-ri, who are only 29 and 32, respectively.

The new, young wave of Korean sports stars

exude a confidence and fearlessness often

absent in their trailblazing predecessors. Dubbed

the G-generation (due to their being born in the

global era), these youngsters point to a bright

future a future where Korea becomes acknowl-

edged, not for its sporting upsets, but for a con-

sistent, exhilarating run of success.

The South Korean national football team pose before the test gameagainst Cte dlvoire (above left). C hu Shin-soo finished the 2009 sea-son with a record batting average (above right). Pitcher Park Chan-ho isthe first Korean player in major leagues (below).

Yang Yong-eun is the first Asian golfer who won PGA championshop(above). Pak Se-ri is one of the most famous and successful Koreangolfer who actively plays in both of Korea and the US, who has won 30events in total (below).

YonhapnewsAgency


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COVER STORY

Im dying for a sleep, says Lee Kyou-hyuk, as our interview

commences. Given his punishing schedule since returning from

Vancouver a seemingly endless procession of TV shows,

receptions and interviews it is a testament to his dedication

and good nature that he has managed to show at all.

Though team Korea excelled in Vancouver, Lee, one of

Koreas greatest ever speed skaters, failed to break his medal

duck. At his fifth consecutive Olympics a series that began

in 1994 at Lillehammer Lee came 15 th in the 500m and

ninth in the 1,000m events. Given his success in other compe-

titions, sports fans throughout Korea were aching for him to

win a medal that his dedication surely warranted. But it wasnt

to be. At a press conference in Vancouver, Lee said simply,

Its sad to compete for something that is unattainable.

Although I was disappointed that I failed to win a medal, it

was uplifting to receive such tremendous support, says Lee.

It felt good to have my entire career as an athlete recog-

nized. Indeed, such was the attention he received, he says he

now feels a little guilty for deflecting the limelight from some of

his younger teammates who had actually won medals.

Before the Olympics, Lee had scored a second place finish

in the 500m and a third in the 1,000m events during the

International Skating Union (ISU) World Cup season.

Expectations grew further when he won the World Sprint

Championships in Japan in January. So why couldnt he repro-

duce this form at the Olympics? I anticipated the pressure of

the Olympics in advance and never stopped preparing for it,

he says. However, when it came to the races, I couldnt per-form at the same level Id been practicing at. I think I was over-

whelmed by the notion that this was my last chance.

As a result, so nervous was Lee before the 500m race, he

says he would have preferred just to run away. I never felt I

was actually outskated in the races by the younger athletes,

he says. But in Vancouver I think I lacked the tenacity to over-

come the huge amount of stress I was facing and to fully con-

centrate on the task at hand.

During the Olympics, Lee envied his younger teammates,

who were clearly enjoying their time at the Games. Even

though this was my fifth Olympics, Ive never been able to

enjoy the experience. I dont think I know how to enjoy them,

Lee says. I always thought that you couldnt win a medal if

you stopped and relaxed. I believed that I had to compete in

the Olympics with total intensity. I guess that approach got in

the way of my ability to perform.

Asked about the future, Lee says he isnt ready to quit just

yet. To be honest, Id like to skate a little longer, not because

of my desire to win a medal, but because I want to end my

career as a professional skater on my own terms. There will

be no more Olympics, though. I wish I was four years young

and had one more shot. But I know Ill be too old for the

Olympics four years from now. Perhaps I can compete in my

own mind.

Whatever I do, Lee says, I would like to be with my fello

athletes at the next Olympic Games. I dont know when it wi

happen exactly, but Im confident my last Olympics will be as

coach. For Lee Kyou-hyuk, Vancouver was definitely not the

end of his Olympic journey.

THE UPSAND DOWNSOF A FIVE-TIMESKATINGHEROLee Kyou-hyuk, 32, is a legendin Korean speed skating. Overthe past decade and a half, hecompeted in five consecutiveWinter Olympics, making hisname synonymous with thesport. Yet, despite a string ofgreat achievements in worldchampionships, Lee nevermanaged to land an Olympicmedal.A streak that, sadly, hewas unable to break at theVancouver Olympics this year.But his passion and refusal to

give up have inspired andmoved sports fans throughoutthe country. Today,KOREAsalutes Lee Kyou-hyuk.by Jin Jung-eon

YonhapnewsAgency


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Interview with Ju Eun-seo, Korea University Arena/Grade 2

student at Donam Elementary School

I WANT TO FLY ON ICE!

When asked why she likes figure skating, 8-year-old Eun-

seo doesnt hesitate. The ice feels just like the sky, she

says. If I could skate across the sky, it would definitely be

like flying.

Eun-seo stepped into ice skates for the

first time at the age of six, during a win-

ter visit to an arena at a hotel in down-

town Seoul. She may scarcely have

been able to skate upright that day,but she couldnt have enjoyed it more.

Harboring dreams ever since of becom-

ing a figure skater, the recent success of

Kim Yu-na has made little Eun-seo even

more determined than ever.

She has already made tremendous

progress, as her skating teacher would

attest. After just eight weeks of train-

ing, Eun-seo passed the basic level of fig-

ure skating, an achievement that usually

takes most students upward of six months.

The axels are the toughest, she says, but I

want to try hard and do triple axels and skate

beautifully like Kim Yu-na.

Not yet 9-years-old, Eun-seo is like a tiny

bird learning to fly on skates in a sky

made of ice.

REACHING FOR THE STARS: KOREASNEW WAVE OF SPORTS HOPEFULS

As of late, Korea has spawned a generation of dreamers.

Inspired by Koreas success at the soccer World Cup, the

Olympics and assorted world championships, an army of chil-

dren has swarmed to parks, pitches and rinks in an attempt to

emulate their heroes and eventually claim sporting glory for

their country. Though still very young, these kids boast a pas-

sion and dedication that would put most adults to shame.

Yet for all the new waves of interest now, Koreas recent

success was the result of already having a sizeable pool of tal-

ent, assiduously developed from early childhood. Lee Seung-

hoon, who at the Vancouver Olympics became the first Asian to

win the mens 10,000m speed skating, learned his skills atLila Elementary School, which is renowned for its skating class-

es. Lee Sang-hwa and Mo Tae-bum, who won respective golds

in the 500m womens and mens speed skating events, are

graduates of Eunseok Elementary School, which runs trial skat-

ing classes for all its students. From this nurtured beginning,

promising youngsters are chosen, groomed, and turned into

tomorrows champions.

However, with the recent success of Kim Yu-na, who

chalked up world record scores while enroute to figure skating

gold this year, skatings popularity has gone into overdrive.

Jeon Hyo-jeong, who teaches at Kims occasional practice rink

at Korea University in Seoul, says they have been getting three

times as many calls asking about skating classes since the

Vancouver Olympics.

We now teach around 20 kids, which is more than double

the number we had before the Olympics, Jeon says. Some of

them are accompanied by their parents, but there are also

a lot of middle school students who come on their own.

International success has bred enormous interest in

soccer, too. Beginning with Koreas sterling run at the

2002 FIFA World Cup, Korean players have

enjoyed a much higher profile in world soc-

cer in recent years. Today, a slew of local

boys ply their trade at some of the worlds

most famous clubs, including Park Ji-sung

at English titans, Manchester United, and

Ki Sung-yong at Scotlands Celtic.

Hong Myung-bo, captain of Koreas

national team during the 2002 World Cup,

runs two soccer schools: one in Seocho-

gu, Seoul, the other in Suwon in Gyeonggi-

do Province. Hong oversees the tuition of

some 450 students at his academies, including,

with an undoubted touch of family pride, his

own sons.

Hongs schools pride themselves on their

non-elitist approach, and focus on creating an atmospher

where kids can enjoy learning soccer skills free from oth

pressures. And those who take their soccer mor

seriously are very welcome here too.

We have a special advanced class for kids

who want to become professionals, says Pa

Seung-hyeon, who manages one of the ac

emies. Today, we have 55 kids who are

training hard to become the next Park Ji

sung, Ki Sung-yong or Hong Myung-bo.

While facilities and opportunities ha

improved tremendously, the final arbite

of success is the work, sweat and occa

sional tears of the aspiring athletes

themselves. And whatever their level,

and whatever their game, these future

sports stars thanks to Koreas ava-

lanche of sporting success are more

inspired than ever before.

From skating, soccer and golf, to baseball, archery andswimming, potential young Korean athletes are display-ing their skills like never before. With dazzling perform-ances in pro sports around the world, Koreas interna-

tional sports stars are bright beacons for the countryschildren, filling them with equal hopes of making it bigone day. Here, we meet some of the youngsters whodream of becoming the next Kim Yu-na or Park Ji-sung.by Seo Dong-cheol | photographs by Kim Hong-jin

COVER STORY

MINI

INTERVIEW

HongMyung-boSoccorAcademy


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PEN & BRUSH

A NOVELDEVOTIONKim Young-ha is a master storyteller. From a gloomy portrait of suicide to Korean immi-grants sold to Mexican farms to a North Korean spy sent South on a mission, Kim has spuntales concerning a vast range of subject matter with unfailing gusto and conviction. Since hisfirst publication in 1995, Kim has won Koreas top literary awards and become perhaps thecountrys best-known contemporary novelist. In a detached, postmodern age, Kims work istruly wielding the power of good storytelling.by Choi Hye-jeong| photographs by Park Jeong-roh

In 1995, Kim Young-ha burst onto the Korean literary scene

seemingly from out of nowhere.In a series of novels includ-

ing I Have the Right to Destroy Myself(1996),Page (1997) and

What Happened to the Man Stuck in the Elevator (1999),Kim

chose a dry,objective tone to voice the sensitivities of urban

youth.His singular,utterly compelling style of storytelling

captured the attention ofa generation of readers,and herald-

ed the birth of a new age in Korean literature.

Now in 2010, Kim is firmly established as one of the coun-

trys finest literary talents.Having won a string of Korean liter-

ary awards including the Dongin Literary Award and the

Hyeondae Literary Award Kims books are now making the

journey overseas, with translations being released in the UnitedStates,France,Germany and Japan,among many other coun-

tries. Scheduled for release on September 28,Your Republic is

Calling You, the English version ofhis novel The Empire of Light,

is now on pre-sale on Amazon.com. Kim Young-ha16

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Here in Korea, Kims publisher has recently released the

Kim Young-ha Collection Set,a collection of four ofhis most

popular works.As Kim himself is the first to acknowledge,

having a compendium of his books released just 15 years

after his debut is an enormous honor,and one with a rather

important meaning.

The set is something like an interim report, a public state-

ment indicating that I will write what I want and work in a

completely independent way. It is also a resolution that by

dictating my own path so far as an author, I can take stock of

where I am and move on to new things.

THE INFINITE STORY Kim says that as a child, such was his

love of stories that he would introduce himself as a personwho likes words and telling stories.

I used to tell stories to my friends during school bus rides,

and the response was immense, says Kim.I loved having my

friends listening to me,their eyes glinting with curiosity. To

some degree, I guess I was born with this talent.

Despite his prodigious ability,however,when the time

came to go to university,Kim surprised everyone by opting

for business over literature.Because I chose not to major in

creative writing or traditional literary training, I was

denounced as a monsterby some of my more zealous peers.

But I didnt mind those remarks so much.I believed then, as I

believe now,that literary work is independent and has a life

of its own.If its good, people will read it and tell others.

Thats the true power of the novel.

Like the author himself, Kims novels were individual and

recalcitrant.He openly defied Korean literary circles and the

overwhelming tendency,at the time, to write psychological

novels that placed a huge emphasis on style.Yet Kims motives for becoming a novelist were much more

simple.A while ago I di d something called the Proust ques-

tionnaire, he says.It was an interesting format in which you

had to answer all the questions in the simplest terms. One

question asked,in what state are you most happy? So I

answered,a state where I get orders from no one,where I do

what I want. That is why I became a novelist. It seemed if I

became one,I could do what I want, without having to obey

other peoples orders.If it didnt go well, the failure would be

entirely my own.

While declaring he became a novelist just to remain a free

spirit, Kim in fact takes enormous pride in the field of writ-

ing. He is quoted as calling the novel the greatest creative

outlet mankind has ever achieved,and the finest genre of

literature. As such,he is bullish about its prospects even in

the age of high technology.

For a while, people wondered whether literature would

survive the digital age, he says.But literature is in fact a very

digital-friendly medium.Digital means infinite reproduction,

right? Whether its text messages, e-books or paper books, all

written things can be reproduced infinitely.

Of course the time may come when electronic books

become more popular than paper books.Even if they do,

however, people will still like to read stories with meaningful

and beautiful prose.This i s why literature is at heart an infi-

nite medium.

MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE With his boundless appetite for the

written word, Kim is always writing, always looking for the next

great story. His most recent collection of short stories,complet-

ed while he was working on other novels,will be released this

summer.For Kim, novels are a source of great joy, and one forwhich his enthusiasm remains entirely undiminished.

Writing novels is a pleasure for me,he says. In a way,its

like sending a message in a bottle from a desert i sland. Your

hope,of course,is that the letter will reach somewhere some

day,and then someone will read it. But for the moment, youre

writing it purely for your own pleasure.

For one so full of passion,Kim is actually cool in person,

with a somewhat philosophical assessment of his success.

Im actually rather lucky. I was born in an age that suited my

style, and as a result,a lot of people like what I write.The

thing I still really want to do, however, is to create my own,

undeniable masterpiece, something in the stature of Anna

Karenina or Madam Bovary.Thats the life task that still

awaits me.

With his unique ability to control narratives and compli-cated slices oflife with simple, beautifully constructed prose,

few would bet against Kim producing that masterpiece before

long.As Kim himself says,I like writing even more now. I

am only getting better.

I HAVE THE RIGHT TO DESTROY MYSELF> Language English

> Publisher Harcourt Books (America)

> Published 2007

Kim Young-has first novel, published in

1996. Taking its cues from beautiful

but dark paintings such as The Death of

Marat by Jacques-Louis David and

Judith 1 by Gustav Klimt, I Have the

Right to Destroy Myselfis a meditation

on the isolation and emptiness that

resides in us all, and the sometimes

suicidal impulses of modern man. With

a suicide guide who helps desper-ate people kill themselves as its

main character, the book was highly

controversial at the time of its release.

PHOTO SHOP MURDER> Language English

> Publisher Jimoondang Publishing

Company (Seoul, Korea)

> Published 2003

An exquisitely written novel that

explores human psychology, Photo

Shop Murderchronicles a complicated

relationship of passion that arises dur-

ing the course of a murder investiga-

tion. The book was a source of inspira-

tion for the film The Scarlet Letterthat

went on to become a hit in Korea.

KIM YOUNG-HAS WHAT HAPPENED TOSHORT STORIES THE MAN STUCK IN(WAMPIR I INNE THE ELEVATOR (CHEOPOWIADANIA) COSA CI FA UN MORTO> Language Polish NELLASCENSORE)> Publisher Wydawnictwo > Language Italian

Kwiaty Orientu (Kielce, Poland) > Publisher ObarraO Edizioni

> Published 2009 (Milan, Italy)

> Published 2008

Kims uniquely pithy and

clever prose is perhaps

best illuminated in his

short stories, of which

many have now been pub-

lished overseas. One of

his short stories, What

Happened to the Man

Stuck in the Elevator, has

enjoyed particular success

in Europe, with transla-

tions being released in

Sweden, Spain and Italy.


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PRESIDENTIAL ACTIVITIES

BEYOND THE

BLUEHOUSEOn February 25, President Lee Myung-bak celebrated his secondanniversary in office. With an exhibition of previously unreleasedphotos of Lee, photojournalists covering the Blue House, or CheongWa Dae, take us through those two breathless years. by Nam Gung-uk

CheongwadaePress

Corps

President Lee Myung-bak sports sunglasses dur-

ing his trip to the Davos Forum in Switzerland.


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Good Morning, Mr. President. Its 7:30am. Over the past two

years, President Lee Myung-bak has led a busy life. According

to recent data from the Presidential Office of State Affairs

Planning, the President has attended 1,394 events in Korea

alone since his inauguration, covering a distance equivalent to

100 diagonal crossings of South Korea. Overseas, he has visit-

ed 28 nations and held 93 summit meetings, flying 316,828

kilometers about eight circumnavigations of the globe in

the process.

Not one to waste time, President Lee usually arrives at his

office around 7:30am. Even this was a compromise, after his

wife, Kim Yoon-ok, persuaded him that coming in any earlier

would be unfair to his already overworked staff.

One part of the presidential residence that has been particu-

larly affected by this early bird president is the Blue House(Cheong Wa Dae) cafeteria. Often holding meetings with his

officials there, the President is renowned for his early morning

appetite. Sometimes, rumor has it, he eats twice the serving

of fish as allotted to everyone else.

President Lee plays with children during celebrations for Childrens Day, May 5,

2009, at the Blue House in Seoul (top). First lady Kim Yoon-ok greets a Maori, New

Zealand aborigine, according to their traditions (above).

President Lee enjoys an old-fashioned ice cream, which reminds him of his youth

(top). The President spends time with his granddaughter during a holiday (above).

Since stressing pragmatic centrism and people-friendly

policies as the guiding ideas of his administration, President

Lee has frequented traditional markets and other places where

he could meet average Koreans. And, eager not to be seen as

just a point-scoring opportunist, the President makes sure to

buy from vendors whenever he visits. On one of these excur-

sions, on June 25, 2009, he went to a back alley market in

Imun-dong, Seoul, entered a mom-and-pop store and picked up

a bag of rice poppers.

I can never just walk past these things, said the President.

I made them on the streets and sold them when I was young.

How much is a bag?

800 won (US$0.7), came the reply.President Lee picked up two bags and handed 2,000 won to

the shopkeeper. When given his change, he smiled and said

simply, No, I cant accept that.

While touring around an old market once, the President

stocked up on figs, green chili peppers and honey-spiral court

cake. The figs were served a few days later as refreshments

during a meeting with the Advisors on Foreign Affairs and

National Security, the honey cake designated a delectable

snack for his study. The green chili peppers were delivered to

the Blue House cafeteria, to be marinated in soy sauce.

PRESIDENT AND GRANDFATHER When President Lee visited

Namdaemun market in September 2009, he stopped by a

shop selling hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) and set his

eye on a dress for a small girl. The President gauged the size,

and decided it was just what hed been looking for. Paying

40,000 won (US$35.18) for the hanbok, he later gave it to his

granddaughter Seung-yeon the second daughter of his sec-

ond daughter during the Chuseok (KoreanThanksgiving Day).

Like any grandfather, he dotes on his grandchildren and reg-

ularly showers them with gifts. With one son and three married

daughters, the president and the first lady now have two grand-

sons and four granddaughters. Unless otherwise detained by

urgent tasks, he spends time every weekend with his grandchil-

dren, and says that riding bicycles with them is one of his

greatest joys. On occasion, the first lady will join them, too

though she only learned to ride after he became president and,

according to a recent interview, still uses training wheels.

Every so often, the time the first couple spends with their

grandchildren makes a direct impact on government policy. In

November 2009, the government announced plans to lower theage at which children start school to 5-years-old from 6-years-

old. Lee reached this decision, as government officials say, and

concluding that todays kids were far more mature than when

the President himself had been young.CheongwadaePress

Corps


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THE PRESIDENT MEANS BUSINESS During the first two years

of Lee Myung-bak administration, his diplomatic achievements

in particular, have stood out. On his watch, Korea won the bid

to host the G-20 summit this November, and signed a 47 tril-

lion won (US$41.3 billion) deal to build and operate nuclear

power plants in the United Arab Emirates. President Lee invest-

ed a great deal of personal and political capital into the nuclear

deal, calling the crown prince of Abu Dhabi, General Sheikh

Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan, no fewer than six times to

persuade him to choose Koreas offer.

In wooing the UAE government, Blue House officials say,

President Lee drew on his own experience from the 1970s

when, as CEO of Hyundai Engineering and Construction, he dida lot in the Middle East. Visiting the UAE in December last year

to sign the deal, he charmed his host, President Khalifa bin

Zayed Al Nahyan, by mentioning that he was a big fan of camel

meat. Delighted to hear of President Lees taste for local cui-

sine, the UAE president jokingly upbraided his assistants for

not preparing some camel dishes for his Korean counterpart.

President Lees diplomatic success stems largely from his

extensive international experience, but also from a disarmingly

bluff and personable demeanor. During an official visit to

Australia early in Lees administration, Australian Prime

Minister Kevin Rudd invited President Lee for an impromptu

beer, an offer the Korean premier gratefully accepted. In this

unscripted encounter, the two men sat and chatted for three

hours about topics including Koreas economic rise and how it

overcame its severe financial crisis in the late 1990s. The

Prime Minister later supported Koreas bid to host the G-20

summit. Elsewhere, President Lee went to a sauna last May

with Kazak President Nursultan Nazarbayev wearing nothing but

a towel taking the notion of close ties to a new level.

A GOOD SPORT Though a famously hard worker, in the past he

still found the time to be president of the Korea Swimming

Federation for 12 years during his time in the corporate world.

This love of sports has stayed with him into the national presi-

dency, during which time he has seen Team Korea compete in

two Olympic Games and a World Baseball Classic (WBC). Like

the rest of his countrymen, President Lee was hanging on every

single race, shoot and strike as Team Korea excelled in all threecompetitions.

But it was the recent Vancouver Winter Olympics that left the

strongest mark. Throughout the games, and even after theyd

finished, the President spent much of his time extolling the

virtues of Koreas athletic heroes. On the day Kim Yu-na gave

her gold-winning performance in figure skating, he gushed,

Skaters from other countries are wonderful, but Kim isnt ju

skating out there she may as well be performing ballet.

When hosting a Blue House luncheon for the medal-winnin

athletes, President Lee recalled some of the most nerve-

jangling moments. He said he wished he could have given th

countrys speed skaters a little push to take them past the

other racers. When Kim Yu-na was in mid-leap, he said he si

ply couldnt bear to watch, and shut his eyes. Since the ath-

letes had been out the country for so long, the President hadconsidered serving spicy instant ramyeon noodles at the offi

cial luncheon. Ultimately, though, he decided against it. I ke

ramyeon off the menu, he later joked, because I didnt wa

any rumors to emerge about the Blue House being cheap.

President Lee has an informal chat with Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd during

the 2009 G-20 summit in the US (top). The president takes a video of a rail trip after

the Davos Forum in Switzerland (above).

President Lee fishes during his summer vacation (top). The president strikes a skat-

ing pose during a luncheon with the national Winter Olympics team after their return

to Seoul (above).

Yonh

apnewsAgency

CheongwadaePressCorps

TRAVEL


16/29

TRAVEL

Head south from Seoul and push on toward the ocean,you will eventually reach Namhae, a jagged piece of coasurrounded by countless islands.There are several charming towns along the shore of Namhae, but I chose to vis

Yeosu, a city gearing up to host the Expo 2012. Here, thheroic tales of Admiral Yi Sun-sin remain part of the fabof local life, and the gorgeous scenery of Dadohae HaesNational Park greets you at every turn. by Seo Dong-cheol

YEOSU,City of the OceanCity of the Expo KimTae-su

/Yeosu

City

A landscape of Dolsan Bridge and New Yeosu


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SEDUCED BY THE OCEAN On reaching Odongdo proper, you

greeted by a fountain whose jets of water dance in time to th

strains of classical music. From here, head uphill toward the

inland and youll approach some thick woods, where many o

Odongdos194 different plant and tree species reside. Thou

spanning just 127,000sqm, Odongdo boasts impressive flor

diversity, and as you wander along the islands trails youll

encounter swathes of dense bamboo, ocean pine trees and

ver magnolias that thrive despite the strong ocean winds.

Most famous, though, are the camellia trees. With their

gleaming, dark green leaves and scarlet flowers, camellias ar

the symbol of this small island and a source of pride for the

locals. To get a superb view of the wildlife, and the rest of theislands natural beauty, an excellent vantage point is the obs

vation deck at the lighthouse on the hills of Odongdo. Immen

windows offer a nearly 360-degree view of Dadohae Haesang

National Park, while Dolsan Island, Dolsan Bridge, New Yeosu

Port and the exhibition hall for the upcoming Expo 2012 can a

be seen from here as well.

Once back on the mainland, head over to the Dolsan Bridg

and cross into Dolsan Park. Sunset is an especially recom-

mended time to visit as the port is lit with bright lights.

Namhae, Koreas southern coast, is an area largely defined by

two beautiful national parks: Hallyeo Marine National Park in

Gyeongsangnam-do Province and Dadohae Haesang National

Park in Jeollanam-do Province. Falling within Jeollanam-do, the

city of Yeosu begins from the easternmost point of Dadohae

Haesang National Park, which also includes Yeosus assorted

islands within its borders. From the center of Yeosu, follow the

salty scent to the nearby ocean and you will soon see the hori-

zon emerging from afar, and the vast sea embroidered with

numerous islands, small and large.

Among them, Odongdo island is indisputably Yeosus No. 1

attraction. Just 10 minutes from downtown Yeosu, Odongdo is

connected to the mainland by a seawall, making it easily

accessible on foot. Named one of the 100 most beautiful

roads in Korea, the seawall is an experience in itself, with the

lapping ocean on either side almost convincing you that you

could be walking on the water. It is certainly something special

to include while visiting.

Jinnamgwan, a wooden building, reminds of Admiral Yi Sun-sins

memories (above). Camellia flower is one of the symbol of Odongdo

island, which can be seen in spring season (right).

YeosuCity


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Hyangiram, located at the southeastern tip of Dolsan Island,

is another source of magnificent scenery in Dadohae Haesang

National Park. Hyangiram, which means hermitage facing the

sun, is a wonderful place from which to watch the sunrise,

though, contrary to its name, it is often crowded with people.

Tragically, the golden Daeungjeon pavilion and bell tower were

recently destroyed in a fire, but the small temple endures in its

dignified serenity.

From the parking lot, climb the steep mountain road for 20

minutes and the horizon will once again emerge. As you

squeeze along the narrow road that wiggles its way through the

rocks, the view continues to unfurl until you reach

Daeungjeons front yard. Climb just a little bit further over therocks behind Daeungjeon and finally you will come to

Gwaneumjeon, another fabulous setting from which to admire

the sunrise. There are seven caves and seven rocky passes

around Hyangiram, and if you can get through all of them it is

said one wish will be granted. But while admiring the divine

sunset from the crest of the ridge, you may well feel that you

have nothing more to wish for.

KOREAN HERO, YI SUN-SIN If you have ever been to Seoul and

walked around Gwanghwamun Plaza, you could not have

missed the large statue of a warrior holding a sword over

passersby. This is Koreas greatest military hero, Admiral Yi

Sun-sin, who, in repelling the invading naval forces of Toyotomi

Hideyoshi in 1592, helped ultimately turn the war in Koreas

favor and secured one of the most astonishing victories in the

history of naval conflict.

Traces of Yi can be found all along the southern coast, as his

ties with Yeosu run deep. Located between downtown Yeosu and

Odongdo, Jinnamgwan is a vast wooden structure spanning

55sqm with 68 massive circular pillars and large, natural rock

cornerstones. Though serving as a lodging for guests in more

recent centuries, Jinnamgwan occupies the land where Admiral

Yis regional headquarters a building called Jinhaeru once

stood. Jusulmok, an area of ocean by the beach, is another place

where Yis outstanding bravery and military acumen were evi-

denced. More than 60 Japanese ships were defeated here,

though today, the scene is one of enchanting peace and beauty.

Another must-see is the replica of one of Yis famous turtle

ships, whose fully covered deck and array of cannons made

them a formidable vessel. Sealed from above with plating

many believe to have been made from metal, the turtle ships

were practically impregnable. Inside the replica is a diorama of

the naval warriors rowing their ship, as well of scenes of can-

nons firing and a medical area, giving a real taste of how hard

conditions must have been at the time.

HOW TO GET TO YEOSU

> By Air There are nine flights a day from Seouls Gimpo

Airport to Yeosu. They run from 7:30am to 6pm, and the

flight takes 55 minutes.

> By Car Gyeongbu Expressway - Cheonan-Nonsan

Expressway - Honam Expressway - Suncheon IC - Nation

Highway 17 - Yeosu / Jungbu Expressway - Daejeon-

Tongyeong Expressway - Jinju JC - Namhae Expressway -

Suncheon IC - National Highway 17 - Yeosu (5 hours)

> By Bus/Train 19 Buses bound for Yeosu from the

Express Bus Terminal run daily from 6am to 11:20pm.

Departing from Yongsan station, there are 11 trains to

Yeosu daily from 6:50am to 10:50pm (5 hours 30 min-

utes)

YEOSU CITY TOUR

A day-long city bus tour taking in Yeosus major tourist

sites runs daily from Yeosu station.

> Course Yeosu Station (10:30am) - Odongdo - Expo 20

Yeosu Information Center - Jinnamgwan - Marine Scienc

Center - Hyangiram - Yeosu Fish Market - Yeosu Station

(6:10pm)

> Fee Adults 3,000 won (US$2.6); disabled, serviceme

senior citizens 2,000 won (US$1.8); students 1,000 wo

(US$0.9)

> Inquiries +82-(0)61-666-1201 / 1202/ 1203,

http://eng.yeosu.go.kr

Jinnamgwan

472 Gunja-dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do Province

Tel +82-(0)61-690-2222

Hyangiram

70 Yullim-ri, Dolsan-eup, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do Provinc

FeeAdult 2,000 won (US$1.8), Youth 1,500 won (US$1.

Children 1,000 won (US$0.9)Tel +82-(0)61-644-4742

Expo 2012 Yeosu Information Center

335-1 Sujeong-dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do Province

Tel +82-(0)61-690-8290

Yeosu Fish Market

680 Gyo-dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do Province

Tel +82-(0)61-662-7268

Marine Science Center (Jusulmok)

1271-3 Pyeongsa-ri, Dolsan-eup, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do

Province

Fee Adult 2,000 won (US$1.8), Youth 1,000 won (US$0

Tel +82-(0)61-644-4136 Website http://eng.yeosu.go.k

TRAVEL TIPS

BEFORE THE 2012 YEOSU EXPO

While the Expo itself is still two years off, visitors can still get

a taste of the forthcoming extravaganza from the events

information center at the entrance to Odongdo. Here, you can

find out about the major themes of Expo 2012 Yeosu, which

will run for three months from May 12, 2012, as well as learn

about the history and significance of the International

Exposition. And though they are still under construction, the

Expos main venues, including the Ocean Exhibition Hall and

Ocean Tower, have detailed displays at their building sites.

2010 YEOSU TURTLE SHIP FESTIVAL

The 2010 Yeosu Turtle Ship Festival will be held from May

5-8 this year at Yeosu New Port and various places in

town. Celebrating life from Jinnamjae in 1967, the festivalcommemorates the exploits of Admiral Yi Sun-sin while

also appreciating oceanic culture and the surrounding

natural beauty. This is perhaps Koreas oldest festival of

patriotism and this year the addition of the Yeosu World

Fireworks Contest will make it a more enjoyable spectacle.

The city celebrates Yeosu Turtle Ship Festival in May every year (top). Hyangiram is

famous for its peaceful atmosphere and breathtaking ocean view (above). A scenery

of 2012 Yeosu Expos building (right).

Tongjeyeong Street Ceremony is one of the main attraction of Yeosu Turtle Ship

Festival (above).

YeosuCity

KoreaTourismO

rganization

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nearly all saunas in Korea. One of the things that

makes this particular sauna better than most is the

showers themselves: Unlike at the majority of baths,

these stay on until you turn them off. Nearly every-

where else, they turn off every minute. Here,you can

luxuriate under a torrent of perfectly heated water.

Soap, shampoo and even conditioner are provided,

though the germophobe will want to bring his own.

Some saunas sell amenities such as disposable razors.

Luxuriate is the operative word here.After the

shower,I opt for the merely scalding bath;there is no

temperature reading as there are at many saunas,but

its probably around 40C. There are two other baths

here: an even hotter bath with an herb infusion, and

a cold bath. Some spas will have others as well. Often

the herbal bath jasmine is common will be a

reasonable temperature,in the upper 30s. A few

saunas have individual baths in addition to the ubi

uitous large basins,which can fit 10 to 30 people

For several minutes,my comrades and I sit

and soak in silence,our thoughts drifting

away with the plumes of steam.My friend

had just come from the basketball cour

weary and sore from the exertion.The

bath is a perfect end to their rigorous d

Others are now arriving in the shower

room, more salarymen fresh fromhoes

the mandatory,fun Korean business din

ners that demand both drinking andnoraebang (Korean karaoke).Like us, th

are quiet; the sauna feels like a sacred

place, a temple where the repentant com

to scour away their sins and be reborn in

the searing waters.

Eventually though, we do start convers

ing. One of my companions is a Japanese

executive who visits Seoul regularly.

Surprisingly,hed never come to a Korean

sauna or jjimjilbang before,though he had

been to public baths and spas abroad.

In Russia,after sitting in the hot bath,

everyone gets out and dives into the snow, h

tells us.

Dives in naked?Yes!

This sauna has no snowbanks,but i t does have an

icy-cold bath.Well, perhaps icy is a little strong,but it

certainly cold. Only one of us has the fortitude to get

Its good for circulation, he insists. Im fine stay

ing in the warmth, thank you very much.

One of the main attractions of this sauna is the

outdoor bath.Adjacent to the shower room is a par

tially enclosed patio. A sharp wind,kisses from

Siberia, strikes us as we make our way to this bath.

Unlike the ones indoors,it is enclosed in wood.

Copses of bamboo grow around the bath, muffling

the nightscape sounds ofthe city. We quickly climb

into the bath and resume our luxuriating and conv

sation. The icy wind now feels invigorating as we s

half submerged in the water. The appropriate Kore

word for this sensation is siwonhaeyo (refreshing).

After awhile, our skin wrinkly as a pugs, we decide

check out the rest of the facility. In fact,the floor we

There are many saunas, spas,

andjjimjilbangscattered through-

out the city. Weve come to my

friends favorite one,an upscale facility

hidden in a dark glass skyrise.The man at

the counter gives us three plastic bands w ith numbers

on them. Mine is 110.We pass through a curtain and

down a small hallway to reach the changing room.

The little number on our bracelets is the key to our

lockers.I somehow manage to lock mine a couple of

times before getting the trick down.

As we are stashing our clothes,my

friends and I are the only ones in the

locker room.Soon, we are as naked as the

day we were born; we head to the shower room.

The room to shower and bathe is sparsely populat-

ed; a handful of weary salarymen are boiling in the

hottest of the three baths.Another man is showering

along one of the walls.Typically,one showers first

before slipping into the large stone baths found in

Its late Friday night,almost Saturday, and the

sauna my friends and Ive come toin Apgujeong-dong is quiet and peace-

ful, a sharp contrast to the frenetic danceclubs and bars on nearby Rodeo Drive or

down the street in Garosugils chic wine barsand sake houses. Those are wonderful distrac-

tions for the average weekend, but some-times you want something a little morerelaxing, something to soak away thegritty workday and soothe bonesweary from Seouls fast-paced life.

A

JOURN

EY INTOSTEA

M


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on is the sauna proper; below us is the jjimjilbang. A

jjimjilbang is something like a spa, community center,

recreation center and cheap hotel wrapped together.

First though,we put on the uniforms provided. Such

facilities always offer uniforms, often a t-shirt or

robe/shirt and shorts in coed jjimjilbang, the mens

and womens uniforms are different colors.

Dressed in the earthy beige of the saunas threads,

we head downstairs. There are more people here than

there were in the baths, but its still reverentially

quiet. A few older men are playing janggi (the Korean

equivalent of chess),a couple of guys are laying on

the floor in front of a large television with the vol-

ume on low.Others are sitting at the bar of the tiny

coffee shop or in the little restaurant next to it.

Our first destination, though, is the oven.The oven,

as we call it, is a large room constructed like a tradi-

tional stone and thatch building, the walls convex and

ending in a conical point at the top.It is stupefy ingly

hot inside. We have to climb in through a hobbit-sized

door. A large hourglass sits on the mats in the middle

of the room.We flip it over and settle in.Our Japanese

friend has never experienced this.

The airs heavy; its a little hard to breathe, he

tells us when we ask what he thinks of it.

Yeah, thats normal the first time,we assure him.

We are conversing,quietly, in English;another man

comes,sits for a moment, and then leaves.

The last of the sand slipps away in the hourglass.

We scamper out of the oven and towel away the

sweat. It felt good to sweat in there,expelling untold

levels of toxins,as some say.

Whats next?

The ice room.

Just to the left of the oven is a walk-in freezer that

would not be out of place in any number of restau-

rants. The air is still and crisp, but despite the frost-

caked coils lining the walls,it doesnt feel cold exactly.

Again,we need the Korean word:siwonhaeyo!

After a while, 10 minutes maybe time seems like

such an alien concept in this palace of relaxation

we do begin to feel the rooms deep chill working its

way into our flesh.We adjourn to the next room,thecharcoal room. Its another dry sauna room, not as

hot as the oven but still quite warm, with the heavy

scent of aromatic wood and charcoal permeating the

air. And a TV. A couple ofyounger men sit watching

the news. We stay long enough to get the general idea

and then retire to the coffee bar.

The menu is fairly extensive, with a variety of

juices, teas, coffees,and other beverages.Our

Japanese friend orders tomato juice,a lassi for me,

and simple green tea for my other friend. The toma-

to juice and lassi are made from scratch.

People leave their belongings upstairs in their lock-

ers, so the sauna charges our electronic bracelets.

We arent hungry but we do take a look at the little

restaurants offerings. Basic Korean food bibimbap, seolleongtang, doenjang-jjigae are,of

course,the specialties of the house.

Weve been in the sauna and jjimjilbang for quite a

while now.More men have come in and are sleeping on

the mat by the large TV. At this jjimjilbang,the provid-

ed pillows are small firm rectangles.Other places often

use pillows and I use this word generously made

from beaded bamboo strands or even wooden blocks.

For those that need a darker and quieter space, a room

off the main area is set aside for sleeping.

If this were a coed jjimjilbang,the central space

would be shared by both men and women. While our

jjimjilbang is more luxurious,and thus more expen-

sive than most,it is still considerably cheaper than a

hotel.Thus, jjimjilbang are popular for many workers

and travelers.Should a business dinner run quite late,

it is often better to crash at the nearest spa than to tr y

catching a taxi to the suburbs or driving drunk.

Whole families can also be found at night in many

jjimjilbang,especially the large and famous ones in

the far reaches of the peninsula.

Our drinks finished and our energy wavering,we

decide to make our way back upstairs. Another quick

shower and a few minutes in the bath to wash away th

dry,sauna-induced sweat finish us up. Just out ofthe

shower room are all the basics needed to make our-

selves presentable: hair dryers,gels and mousses, and

the like. Some jjimjilbang have barbers available duri

the day.Professional masseuses are often on staff as

well. Coed jjimjilbang usually have nail technicians,

play rooms for kids, PC rooms and a host ofother

amenities. It is entirely possible for a family to spend whole day in a jjimjilbang and never get bored.

The only thing we missed in our visit, I realize as

were dressing,is the salt room. Salt rooms vary from

sauna to sauna.In some, the room a hot,dry saun

is liberally coated in coarse salt. In this one,howe

er, there is a large bowl of salt outside the room.It is

patrons responsibility for gathering his own and then

scouring his body with the white pillars. This is sup-

posed to help exfoliate the skin, draw out excess wate

and toxins, and improve your skins health overall.

Whenever I go to the sauna,I sleep like a baby

afterwards, my friend explains to our Japanese com

panion as were getting into the car.I take a look

back. From the outside ofthe jjimjilbangs buildin

youd never know it was there.Even the outdoorbaths enclosure is completely hidden from the out

side. I wonder how many other wonders the city

hides within its glass and concrete facades. by Chris

Sanders | illustrations by Jo Seung-yeon | photograph by Kim

Nam-heon

PROFILE

Chris Sanders is an Americ

expatriate who has lived in

Seoul for several years, and

works as a university instru

and freelance writer. In 200

he co-founded the Seoul

Writers Workshop, a commty of writers that holds regu

critique sessions, publishe

the yearly anthology Every

Second Sunday, and supp

worthwhile charities. More o

his writing can be read on

Seoulstyle.com.

He can be reached at

[email protected].

INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE


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A panorama of COEX, which the UNESCO World Conference on Arts

Education is about to hold in this convention center.

THE UNESCOWORLD

CONFERENCEON ARTS

EDUCATION

ALL ABOUT

THE FUTURE OFTHE ARTS

Arts and culture are connecting threathat weave into a global fabric. In ove

coming racial, religious or linguisdifferences, culture can be the ultima

peacemaker,and combining cultuand art with education allows th

power to be passed down through geerations. In Seoul from May 25 to 2

the UNESCO World Conference oArts Education will gather professionaand activists to weave a stronger fabr

by Oh Kyong-yon | photograph by Kim Nam-h

KA

2


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KA

2

The 1st UNESCO World Conference on Arts Education was held in Lisbon, Portugal (above).

Korean students take traditional music lessons during a culture class at Korea Arts & Culture

Education Service (opposite top). Organizing Committee for the 2 nd World Conference on Arts

Education held a pre-meeting in Seoul, December 2009 (opposite above).

The UNESCO World Conference on Arts Education was launched

to raise awareness of the value of arts education and to

strengthen the values it espouses. As we head further into the

21st century, those values are as important as theyve ever

been. Ahead of the Seoul event this year, Franoise Rivire,

assistant director-general for culture at UNESCO, says,

Through Seouls hosting of this conference, we expect that

government agencies and regional authorities, as well as teach-

ers, artists, related agencies and NGOs, will cooperate with

each other to strengthen arts education, and will come up with

new strategies and research methodology to benefit us all.

Moreover, she mentions that, They should, however, be

accompanied by balanced arts education in schools and in

society as a whole.

Held for the first time four years ago in Lisbon, Portugal, the

UNESCO World Conference on Arts Education aims to provide a

global forum on culture and arts education and to further the

cause of international cooperation. At the inaugural event, the

UNESCO Road Map for Arts Education dominated the agenda,

and discussions were mostly about the importance and value

of arts education. At the Seoul meeting, while continuing with

those talks, delegates will assess the progress they have

made in implementing the Road Map and look at ways to

ensure it remains on track.

DEVELOPING ARTS EDUCATION So why is Korea hosting this

years event? By running the global conference, the Korean gov-

ernment aims to raise awareness of the importance and effects

of arts education in Korea, and to enhance the quality and

quantity of arts education through expanded partnerships. At

the same time, by building on the accomplishments of the

Lisbon conference, Korea aims to establish a cooperative net-

work in Asia through which it can share knowledge and experi-

ence in implementing arts education programs. And by acting as

the flagbearer of arts education for the duration of this global

conference, Korea hopes to further nurture its image as a

regional center of culture.

After introducing a law in 2005 supporting arts education,

Koreas Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism is working with

the Ministry of Education to provide various support programs

for students looking to pursue the arts, both in and out of

school. It is such endeavors that the Korean government is

looking to draw on as it builds a network of government agen-

cies and education civic groups throughout Asia.

RAISING THE STANDARDS A main goal of this years UNESCO

World Conference on Arts Education is to encourage the impor-

tance of cultural diversity, as well as emphasize the socio-cul-

tural impact of arts education.UNESCO expects up to 2,000 arts education officials from

Korea and around the world to take part. The conference will

include a plenary session, an international advisory committee

meeting, workshops, an NGO forum and tours of arts education

facilities. At the main conference session, expe rts from around

the world will discuss the contribution and the role of the arts

in the UNs International Year of Cultural Reconciliation in

2009. A youth forum will also look at dreams inspired by the

arts and the life-changing experiences that have arisen from

the creative outlets. Accompanying the events will be a series

of performances and numerous art exhibitions.

The conferences declaration, tentatively named Develop-

ment Goals, will be presented during the closing ceremony on

May 28 and hopes to become a lasting legacy. Taking its cues

from the UNESCO Road Map for Arts Education formulated in

Lisbon, the declaration will lay out goals and a doctrine for the

promotion of international arts education. It looks to encourage

the kind of innovative development only achieved through the

progress of the arts.

EVENT AT A GLANCE

> Title The Second UNESCO World Conference on A

Education

> Venue COEX, Seoul, Korea

> Dates May 25 to 28, 2010

> Participants Approximately 2,000 experts from

Korea and around the globe

> Key Events Opening ceremony, plenary session,

workshops, special session, announcement of

Development Goals (tentatively named), arts educat

exhibition and performances, on-site tours of arts e

cation sites in Korea, tour programs

KoreaArts&CultureEducationService

OrganizingCommitteeforthe2

nd

WorldConferenceonArtsEducation/MinistryofCulture,

SportsandT

ourism,

RepublicofKorea

GLOBAL KOREA


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WHERE RENEWABLE ENERGY

FIRMS CROSS PATHS

At last years United Nations Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen,Denmark, plans to build a global green growth research center and host the 18th

post-Kyoto climate change conference in 2012 were unveiled by President Lee.Koreas low-carbon, green growth strategies have since gained worldwide atten-tion and, at the center of it all, is the renewable energy industry.At EXCODaegu,for the 7th Daegu Green Energy Expo from April 7 to 9,visitors will beable to see the future of Green Koreafor themselves. by Kwon Kyeong-hui

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In early April, the worlds leading

renewable energy firms will descend

on Daegu for what will be the largest

Green Energy Expo so far. Last Aprils

exhibition drew more than 32,500 visi-

tors, surpassing the expected atten-

dance of 30,000. This year, 350 com-

panies from 25 nations will set up

1,000 booths, making it not just the

biggest renewable energy exhibition in

Korea, but one of the largest in Asia.

The lineup this year will include the

traditional European renewable energy

powerhouses, while the United States,

Japan and Korea will have beefed-up

presences as well. Two of the biggest

new stars in renewable energy, Chinas

Suntech Power and LDK Solar, will also

be taking part. Representing the United

States will be DuPont, one of the

worlds top chemical firms, and solar

battery manufacturer SunPower, which

has developed the most energy effi-

cient solar battery technology. From

Japan, Napson and Tyco Electronics

will be in attendance, while the arrival

of Taiwanese firms such as Wonten

Technology and Sunrise Global is gen-

erating a lot of interest too.

On the home front, corporate giantssuch as Samsung SDI, LG Electronics

and Hyundai Heavy Industries will be

joined by smaller firms such as

Shinsung Holdings, Symphony Energy

and D-Solar Tech. All in all, there will

be 30% more Korean participants

compared to last year.

On the Expos sidelines, a three-day

International Green Energy

Conference, one of Koreas top inte

national events, will host seminars

solar energy, wind power, hydrogen

fuel energy, subterranean heat and

bioenergy. Organizers expect up to

40,000 visitors, including 1,500 fro

overseas.

THE FUTURES GREEN Now in its s

enth year, the Green Energy Expo ha

grown by 40-50% each year since

2006. Photon International, a maga

zine specializing in renewable energ

ranked Daegu 24th this year among

300 renewable energy fairs for the

second straight year, consolidating

place in the top tier of internationa

renewable energy expos.

With 200 companies from overse

almost double from a year ago, Dae

will be a truly global stage for the la

est green products and technologie

But EXCO, the host, is already look

ahead. Plans are underway to expa

the exhibition center in 2011 and h

the World Energy Council (the world

most prestigious energy event). EXC

aims to make the Green Energy Exp

the biggest such event in Asia.Displaying core energy-related te

nologies at an internationally recog-

nized exhibition is in line with the

Korean governments green growth

policy, said an official of the

Knowledge Economy Ministry.

Joung Hyoung-chan, head of SJ In

Tech, which made the worlds first

Daegu

ExhibitionCon

vention

Center(EXCO)

An exterior view of the Daegu Exhibition

Convention Center (EXCO), which will

host the Daegu Green Energy Expo, is

seen (above). Foreign participants of the

Daegu Green Energy Expo chat during the

event in 2009 (right).


24/29

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screen printer and SPI-related solar

energy equipment, adds, I listened to

advice from the industry and conclud-

ed that the Daegu event will be the

most appropriate place to evaluate

our equipment that we have worked

so hard to develop.

WHERE WE ARE NOW Already shap-

ing up to be one of the worlds biggest

growth industries, renewable

resources are at the heart of energy

policies of governments worldwide. In

everything from policy and technology

to business projects and exports, coun-tries are pushing hard to establish

leadership and set the global stan-

dards. Hearteningly, this competition is

also pushing many players toward

greater cooperation. Late last year,

Germany, with the help of Denmark,

Spain and other European nations,

founded the International Renewable

Energy Agency, or IRENA. The US and

Japan are among 143 nations that

have signed the agencys statute and

12 have ratified it. Requiring the ratifi-

cation of 25 nations to take effect, a

target the body is hoping to achieve by

the end of this year, IRENA will promote

technology transfers and recommend

funding to maximize the use of energy.

As the leader in renewable energy

supply and a founding country of

IRENA, Germany is very well placed to

succeed in the international markets.

In 2007, Germany accounted for 47%

of the global solar energy industry and

27% of the wind turbine market. Under

the Obama administration, the US has

made green energy a centerpiece of

its push to revive the economy. It is

working on extending tax breaks,

securing further finances for invest-

ments in renewable energy, and set-

ting a mandatory target of 25% of all

energy being renewable by 2025. In

July 2009, American Council On

Renewable Energy and Electric Power

Research Institute, two non-profitorganizations, drafted a list of techni-

cal areas and fields where energy,

human resources and nature can best

be harnessed to meet the internation-

al standards.

ENERGY COMPETITION HEATS UP

Amid increasingly fierce competition

surrounding sustainable resources,

there has been a great deal invested

in environmentally friendly growth.

According to a paper on global science

technology policies for 2009 and

2010, published by the Ministry of

Education in Korea, many G-20

nations spent an average of 15% of

their stimulus budget on green growth.

Korea ranked the highest by dedicat-ing 80% of its budget, while the

European Union spent 58.7%, China

34.3% and the US 11.5%.

Of the 28.9 trillion won (US$25.4

billion) in Koreas revised supplemen-

tary budget, 863.7 billion won, or

about 3%, went into R&D for new

growth engines and a science New

Deal. In order to increase private

R&D investment, the government also

increased tax deductions on invest-

ments in new growth engines and origi-

nal technology to the highest level

among OECD member nations. The

Korean government finalized nine key

projects for a Green New Deal, includ-

ing the four-river restoration project

and a green traffic network, which

includes green cars and clean energy.

In their stimulus package unveiled in

February last year, the US allocated

$21.5 billion, or 2.7%, of its $787 bil-

lion stimulus budget to R&D and sci-

ence and technology. This breaks down

into $18 billion for R&D and $3.5 billion

for facilities and capital equipment. A

month earlier, the US had announced

its own Green New Deal policy, whereby

it would provide $150 billion over 10

years to develop clean energy, as well

businesses, and 500 million euros

were alloted to helping develop auto

technologies for hybrid cars and othe

related fields. In China, the stimulus

package ran to 4 trillion yuan (US$58

billion), of which 9.3%, or 370 billion

yuan, went into R&D of IT(Information

Technology), BT(Biology Technology),

NT(Nano Technology) and energy.

These nations are ratcheting up

their investments because they

believe the low-carbon economic re

lution centered on renewable energ

will make or break their future.

Experts believe that after Alvin

Tofflers third wave, the information

revolution, the fourth wave will be the

green revolution, with the renewable

energy industry at its core, said an o

cial at the Samsung Economic Resea

Institute. Just as IT took the late

1990s by storm, renewable energy w

do the same in the years to come.

The upcoming Expo in Daegu will c

tainly be the place to go green.

as green cars, homes and industry.

More importantly, it pledged to double

the R&D funding for federal clean energy

from $6 billion to $12 billion.

Japan introduced its own measures

to fend off the economic crisis last

April. Of 14.7 trillion yen (US$163 bil-

lion) in the stimulus package, 1.34

trillion yen, or 9.2%, was slated for

science and technology. And for its

2009 science and technology budget,

Japan expanded its environment and

energy sectors by 16%, raising their

combined budget to US$164 billion

from US$140.8 billion.

To revitalize its member countries

economies, the EU spent 200 billion

euros (US$270 billion), or 1.5% of the

combined GDP, over 2009 and 2010,

with 6% devoted to the development of

clean technology. Germany allotted 1.4

billion euros (US$1.9 billion), or 2.8%,

of its 50 billion euro stimulus budget

into R&D. Another 900 million euros

went into helping small and medium

Daegu

ExhibitionCon

vention

Center(EXCO);Yonhapnews

Agency(right)

The Daegu Green Energy Expo ranks high among

the international renewable energy expos ( top,

above). Daegwallyeong has one of the most well-

known wind-power producing facilities in Korea

(opposite).

NOW IN KOREA


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2010

VIBRANT INNOVATIVE

SEOULS

STREET

Away from the typical scenes of galleries,museums and performance halls, the

younger generations of Korea are taking theircreativity in another direction: to the streets.With outdoor settings as their backdrop,these artists are making an active effort toexpand the countrys cultural scenes andinfuse it with a fresh, new sense of freedomand realism. by Ines Min | photographs by Park Jeong-roh

K

A

2

Asirang, a wood engraver, works busily at the Hongdae Free

Market on a bright Saturday afternoon.

FROM SPECTATOR TO PARTICIPANT B


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retail. For us, because were communication-oriented, its better

to directly meet and talk with people rather than just sell things

online, says Yang Jeong-wook, one-half of the team. And when

we talk to people, theyll tell us what they like, what they dont

like, what they think is pretty, and whats not. This setting is a

descriptive and moving environment, so its helpful to us in terms

of approach and development.

That same principle is why artist In Jee-hea sits coolly next to

one of her latest, darkest installments. An open dollhouse painted

in matte black showcases mini hand-sewn, eerily macabre dolls.

In front, a glass case guards a hollowed-out book filled with paint-

ed matchboxes, which open to reveal scrolls of tiny writing.

Instead of selling merchandise, she has transformed her space

into a small exhibition for visitors to contemplate.

Rather than making a piece of art by first calculating what

peoples reactions might be... I do it because I figure, Its better

to share these concepts than keep them all to myself. I dont

bring out my works with a plan for people to feel a specific emo-

tion or even like it. Its because I enjoy doing it.

Its 12:34 on a Saturday afternoon, and the streets surrounding

Hongik University still echo from the escapades of Friday night.

Nearing the playground a popular hangout near the schools

main entrance a crowd begins to emerge from the bleariness

of the weekend morning. A lively scene of stirs beyond the slide

and swing set, as artisans set up their tables arranged in weaving

lines inside the park. This is Hongdaes Free Market, back fromits cold weather hiatus for barely a month. The 8-year-old open-air

bazaar has become one of the best sources of handmade wares,

where creators, consumers and spectators mingle to discover and

explore the cornucopia around them.

The market soon flutters with activity and a stroll of the

premises fills the eyes with hand-dyed stockings, drawings of

women with waves of falling hair, a plethora of carefully-

designed jewelry and leather-bound journals.

Asirang, a wood engraver who personalizes designs onto acces-

sories, sits busily as a crowd surrounds her station. She draws

heads from nearby artists, who are interested in seeing her work.

Theres a certain charm to markets, as theyre the kind of place

where people can casually meet, Asirang says. I think street

markets are vital because, when it comes down to it... theyre

diverse, and the people who come out are the ones who are there

because they believe it is important work.

Across the way is YangBanKim, a quirky partnership between a

a kinetic-sculpture artist and a painter. They use a variety of out-

lets to disseminate their artwork, such as street stalls and online

Kim Chul-min and Yoon Hyo-sang perform to a crowd at their usual spot in

Marronnier Park.

FROM SPECTATOR TO PARTICIPANT Beyond simply conver

tions with the artists, the Free Market offers a variety of activ

ties, workshops and exhibitions put together with the help of

everyone involved. Sewing lessons by a fellow artist were ava

able during this years opening event, and participants were

able to take home their finished embroidery.

A small group of caricaturists line a brick-laid bench, proffer

their services for free or a small donation of 10 won. There is

artist who will a draw portrait only if the subject can dare to kee

a straight face during the entire process, and another young m

who will capture a persons likeness in 10 seconds. With the

drawing complete, the model will stand up from the hot seat

fits of laughter, showing off their portrait to friends.

Past the artists is a small gazebo, where local bands grace

the level stage. Soloists and groups entertain the audiences wi

acoustic guitars or more electronic sounds and, while some pe

formers seem nervous, others manage to bask in the experienc

But whatever the circumstance, both musician and audience

appreciate the melodic harmonies in the afternoon sun.

A caricaturist draws a portrait of a girl in 10 seconds (top left). A

mini-exhibit is seen inside the market (top right). Rings, handcarved

and handpainted, are among the many waves of the artists (above).


27/29

STREET CHARACTERS The independent art culture is an ever-

growing prominent feature in Seoul, and the performance sec-

tor has helped pave the way for years. Daehangno is famous

for its intimate theaters and, though there are several venues

in which to see musicals, comedies and plays, the boldest

artists can be found right on the walkways of Marronnier Park.

One of the easier acts to catch are local legends Kim Chul-

min and Yoon Hyo-sang, a comedic and musical pair that have

been delighting crowds on weekend afternoons for the past two

decades. Their greatest charm is in their improvisational skills,

and ability to pick people from the vast crowds to integrate into

their act. More than a mere performance, both Kim and Yoon

actively seek to tear down the fourth wall and engage viewerswith relevant political issues and relatable daily topics.

When I first started coming out here years ago, there were

a lot of d

Documents

KOREA magazine [Apr. 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 4]