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PROFESSIONAL TIMBER FRAME

SYSTEM BUILD GUIDE

FOR 2 BAY GARAGES AND CAR PORTS WITH

HIPPED, BARN-END AND GABLE-END ROOFS

trade professional

INCORPORATING THE

SYSTEM

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TWO BAY GARAGES

Beamlock two bay garages are available in two options:

Complete building with tile battens and cedar shingle tiles supplied

Skeletal framework with roof timbers and cladded walls only

(roof battens and cedar tiles not included)

HIPPED ROOF GARAGE WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF

40 ROOF PITCH

HIPPED ROOF GARAGE

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

40 ROOF PITCH

BARN-END GARAGE WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF

45 ROOF PITCH

BARN-END GARAGE

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

45 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END GARAGE WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF

45 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END GARAGE

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

45 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END GARAGE WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF

28 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END GARAGE

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

28 ROOF PITCH

ENTRANCE

ENTRANCE

2.6m

2.6m

5.614m

4.94m

5.216m

GARAGE FLOOR PLAN Applies to all garages shown

Beams

Beams with walls

Posts

Braces

Floor Plan Key

2

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3If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

HIPPED ROOF CAR PORT WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF

40 ROOF PITCH

HIPPED ROOF CAR PORT

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

40 ROOF PITCH

BARN-END CAR PORT WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF45 ROOF PITCH

BARN-END CAR PORT

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

45 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END CAR PORT WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF

45 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END CAR PORT

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

45 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END CAR PORT WITH

CEDAR SHINGLE TILED ROOF

28 ROOF PITCH

GABLE-END CAR PORT

ROOF BATTENS AND CEDAR TILES NOT INCLUDED

28 ROOF PITCH

TWO BAY CAR PORTS

Beamlock two bay car ports are available in two options:

Complete building with tile battens and cedar shingle tiles supplied

Skeletal framework with roof timbers and cladded walls only

(roof battens and cedar tiles not included)

ENTRANCE

ENTRANCE

4.94m

5.216m

2.6m

2.6m

5.614m

CAR PORT FLOOR PLAN Applies to all car ports shown

Beams

Posts

Braces

Floor Plan Key

Support Posts

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4

GARAGE AND CAR PORT ERECTIONAlways make sure there is adequate safe and secure access equipment to work comfortably and safely

to the height of your garage/car port.

Note: In order to give clarity to the photographs provided in this guide it was necessary to temporarily

remove some access equipment. This should not be removed in the course of normal construction.

Those constructing the building must ensure that all relevant Health & Safety legislation is complied with.

This includes completion of a risk assessment, access methods and suitable Personal Protective Equipment

(PPE) used.

Throughout the build all timbers that are cut or trimmed in the course of construction should have the

newly exposed surface treated with a proprietary brand of wood preserver.

Ensure a suitable foundation has been laid for your garage or car port prior to construction.

CONTENTS Page(s)

Overview of Garage and Car Port structures 2-3

Garage and Car Port Erection, Foundation Requirements and Use Class 3 4

Section 1: Building the frame (for garages and car ports) 5-12

Section 2: Building the sub-frame (for garages only) 13-15

Section 3: Building the roof structure 16

3.1: Gable-End Roof (both 28 and 45 pitch options) 16-17

3.2: Barn-End Roof 18-19

3.3: Hipped Roof 20

3.4: Battens and Cedar Shingles 21

Component Lists for Garage and, Car Ports 22-23

USE CLASS 3

Factory applied preservative treatment gives compliance for Use Class 3.1* allowing the frame to beexposed to the elements but requiring further application of protecting surface coatings.

Note: To achieve Use Class 3 a secondary protective coat needs to be applied and maintained.

FOUNDATION REQUIREMENTS

Beamlock garages and car ports are to be erected on suitably prepared and level foundations,

in accordance with the Local Building Regulation requirements.

Typically a foundation type is decided upon by relevant information such as soil conditions, frost,

heave, proximity to surrounding vegetation, landscape contour (slope of site), fresh landfill, clay,

sandstone, loamy soil, water table and structural load. These are all relevant issues that may affect thefoundation type (strip, trench, raft or pad foundation). Excavation depth and width, concrete thickness

and proximity of concrete to finished ground level is also very important in selecting the correct

foundation type for your site to save costs.

Note: it is the homeowner or their contractors responsibility to lay

a suitable foundation and is not part of Finnforests service package.

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35

SECTION 1: BUILDING THE FRAME FOR GARAGES AND CAR PORTS

GARAGE FRAME COMPONENTS

A Posts x 6 (138mm x 138mm x 2.165m)

Complete with a metal cruciform and

B Adjustable Base Plate

C Shrouds x 6

D End Plates x 10

E Braces x 6 (48mm x 155mm x 900mm)

F Long Beams x 3 (138mm x 165mm x 4.968m)

Complete with metal beam kits

G Short Beams x 4 (138mm x 165mm x 2.628m)Complete with metal beam kits

A

A

C

B hidden by shroud

GF

E

D

B

C

E

D

If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

F 4.968m

G 2.628m

Components shown above are not to scale.

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6

CAR PORT FRAME COMPONENTS

A Posts x 6 (138mm x 138mm x 2.165m)

Complete with a metal cruciform and

B Adjustable Base Plate

C Shrouds x 8

D End Plates x 10

E Braces x 14 (48mm x 155mm x 900mm)

F Long Beams x 3 (138mm x 165mm x 4.968m)

Complete with metal beam kits

G Short Beams x 4 (138mm x 165mm x 2.628m)

Complete with metal beam kits

H Posts x 2, trimmed (138mm x 138mm x 2.0m)

Complete with Adjustable Base Plate B

A

H

AH

C

B hidden by shroud

GF

E

D

B

C

E

D

F 4.968m

G 2.628m

Components shown above are not to scale.

If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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7

Mark out all the locations where the bottom of

the post feet will be located on the foundations

(setting out) .

Note: This information can be taken from the

garage/car port floor plans (see picture 9

bottom right).

Slip the timber shroud over the top of each

post and slide down. Temporarily secure thisabove and clear of the metal foot (base plate)

, as this will be permanently fixed later.

Note: The shroud may be required to move

up or down to a temporary position during

assembly and secured later .

Each beam and post (with the exception of the

two support posts on the car port) have pre-cut

mortise slots ready to accept the metal

strengthening bar that protrudes from either

end of the wooden brace .

The metal bar in the brace is offset to one side,

having a timber thickness of 18mm on one side

(thin side) and a thickness of 30mm on the

other (thick side).

All posts and beams are numbered and each

one has to be positioned in the correct place as

well as facing in the right direction in order to

accept the braces correctly.

In order to ensure correct assembly, posts are

marked with a number on the top and a letter to

the side, where beams adjoin .

Beams are marked with a corresponding letter

to the side .

Before assembly all the components should

be laid out and checked that they are in the

right position and that all brace slots on both

the posts and beams correspond to one

another .

Posts should be located by number as indicatedon the build plan floor plans and each letter

marked on the posts must adjoin the

corresponding letter on the beams to ensure

the correct assembly.

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8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

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1

25 25

9

6 7

Garage floor plan Car port floor plan

8

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Lay two posts on a flat surface and position

a short beam between them. The two metal

tubes that project from the end of the beam

should be positioned around (above and

below) the single metal tube that projects

from the metal cruciform at the top of

the post. In all cases the beam should be

offered up to the post with the nib in the

beam plate protruding upwards.

The beam is then secured to the posts by

gently hammering a long pin into the post

connection , locking the beam plate to the

cruciform (apply grease to all pins for ease of

insertion/removal).

Note: All pins will stand slightly proud

of the top surface of the post; this

is intentional as a further fixing is required

later .

Once two posts have been joined to a short

beam, with assistance place the newly

formed goalpost vertically in the setting

out positions and temporarily support

(e.g. with scaffold board) .

Check that the post tops are horizontal

using a spirit level and straight edge, or other

means . All post tops must be at the same

level. Establish the desired eaves height by

adjusting the base plates .

Carefully check that the location of the posts

are correct and then for each of the two

posts drill four holes at a slight angle through

the existing openings at the bottom of the

base plate and into the concrete foundations

, sufficient to fix M10 x 100mm anchor

bolts .

With assistance and sufficient support raise

another post into an approximate position

forming a 90 angle to the goalpost. Then

lift (two persons) a long beam to the

horizontal position between the goalpost

and the newly erected post .

Position the projecting tubes on the end of

the beam around the single projecting tube

on the cruciform, located at the top of

the post.

Fix into place by gently hammering fixing

pins to secure the beam to the two

cruciforms, at the top of the posts .18

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16

15

14

13

12

11

10

10

12

13

15

17 18

16

14

11

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The structure will now be more stable. Continue

round the frame in the same manner, erecting posts

and securing each respective beam to form one bay

(two long beams and two short beams) .

At each corner where all the required beams have

been inserted to the posts, end plates are required on

the open ends. These are for structural integrity as

well as being a decorative detail.

End plates are fixed using the same method

of applying a greased pin, gently hammered

into position & .

The top of the post is now finished off by securing a

top plate using two 100mm wood screws. Locate the

four pins that protrude from the top of the posts and

the nibs from the beam plates into the outer holes

and then locate, drill and fix the screws into the tworemaining holes & .

The frame now requires temporary bracing to hold the

posts to the beams at a true angle of 90 and to

ensure that all beams are also horizontal .

To help ensure the frame is completely square,

horizontal, and that the angles between the posts

and beams are a true 90, adjustments can be

made to the height of the base plate using a 34mm

open-end spanner .

Check the uprights with a spirit level and the

diagonals carefully with a long tape measure to

ensure the structure is completely square.

Note: Internal measurement from corner posts 1-5,

2-4, 2-6 and 3-5 should be 5.582m (refer to floor

plan diagrams on page 5).

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25

24

2322

2120

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19

20 21 22

24

25 26 27

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9If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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Now the second bay can be added to the first, by continuing to erect posts

and join beams until the complete two bay frame is erected .

In the same manner as before, end and top plates must be fixed

to all posts .

The frame will now be complete and will require to be checked again to

ensure ALL posts are vertical, ALL beams are horizontal and that the frame

is completely square.

Note: Internal measurement from corner posts 1-6 and 3-4 should be

7.273m (refer to floor plan diagrams on page 5).

Anchor bolts are then secured to all base plates in the same manner as

previously described and the timber shrouds that are temporarily fixed

over the posts can now be dropped down over the base plate to hide

this fixing .

Note: Shrouds should be pinned a sufficient amount above ground level

to avoid direct contact with any standing water (normally 6mm).

Braces are now offered up to the mortise slots to form a connection

between the post and beam. Care must be taken to ensure that the

placement of the braces is correct and that they are orientated in the

right direction (see floor plan diagrams on page 5 for brace positions).

The metal strengthening bar that runs the length of the brace and protrudes

at either end is offset to one side . This leaves the brace with a thickside (30mm of timber on the side of the metal strengthening bar) and a

thin side (18mm of timber on the side of the metal strengthening bar).

The strengthening bar that runs through the brace is pre-drilled with two

holes in either end. In the majority of applications it is the bottom hole

(closest to the long wooden edge of the brace) that is used to secure the

brace. However, where three braces adjoin a single post, or where two

braces join a single post on the corner of the carport model, there is a need

to also use the top hole and a strict sequence of construction is required

in order to complete the assembly correctly.

Note: Check all brace positions carefully before drilling.

Braces should be fixed with the thin side facing the internal faade of

the structure and the thick side the external faade.

Note: There are six braces used in the construction of the garage, whereas there are fourteen used in the

car port. Please check the floor plan diagram on page 5 to identify where these are to be located.

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30

29

28

28 29

30

31

10

Brace pictured frominternal, with thin side

of brace inside thestructure

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For both single and double

brace applications to a single

post, the brace is held to the

inside face of the post and

beam with the thin 18mm

section of timber facing

inwards and the thick

30mm section of timber

facing outwards.

Using the holes in the braces

metal strengthening bar as a

template, mark the positions

to drill two 12mm holes, one in the post and one in

the beam for each brace .

Drill to a depth of 70mm.

The metal ends of the brace are inserted into

position in the corresponding mortise slots on thepost and the beam. Two short securing pins are

greased and gently hammered into the drilled holes

. This secures the metal strengthening bar at

either end of the brace and holds it into position. The

short pins are covered with a timber grommet to

finish off .

Note: Where three braces join a single centre

post, there is a sequence that must be followed in

order to secure all the braces correctly.

For the bracing of the two centre posts to the longcentral beam, the mortise slots are offset to one

side. In order for the braces to match up correctly the

thin side of the brace (with the 18mm section of

timber) should face the smaller section of timber, as

denoted by the position of the mortise, on both the

post and beam.

From the inside of the structure with the centre post

in front of you (looking out of the garage/car port)

measure and drill for the right hand brace using the

bottom hole as a template. Then the centre brace

using the top hole as a template and finally the left

hand brace using the bottom hole as a template .

The braces must also be inserted and secured in

the same order as described above - right, centre

and left .

Note: Where two braces join a single post on the

corner of the car port model, one must be fixed

through the bottom hole of the braces metal

strengthening bar and the other through the top

hole and then fitted in sequence.

Ensure all holes are drilled before fixing braces.

Continue around the frame until all braces are

secured .37

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34

33

32 33

36

34 35

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11

View from inside thestructure looking outat the centre post

Mortise forcentre brace

Mortise to acceptleft hand brace

Drill holeto accept pinthat securesright handbrace

Drill holeto accept pinthat securesleft handbrace

If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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FOR CAR PORTS ONLY

There are two additional posts that need to be secured halfway along the length of the two outer long beams. These

two posts have a plain top and are 165mm shorter than the standard posts. These do not require bracing and are

for support only.

The bottom of the post is secured to the foundations in the same manner as previously described with a base plate,

having checked that the post is completely upright and that the top of the post is under the horizontal beam in the

correct position. The post is then secured by drilling two vertical holes down through the top of the beam and intothe top of the post. Fixings (6.3mm x 200mm hexagonal drive screws) are then inserted from the top of the beam.

The finished car port frame should now look like the picture below and is now ready for the roof components .38

38

12

Additional centre postsfor car ports

If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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The garage frame will be of the same overall dimensions but with braces fixed only to the open beam and post joints

as illustrated on the garage floor plan on page 5.

The sub-frame of treated timber that forms the support for the external cladding can now be prepared.

Start with one side first which will then need to be completed before progressing to the second side and then the

rear of the garage.The sole plate, which is the bottom

horizontal length of timber that spans

between posts, is installed first .

This is cut from pressure impregnated

47mm x 100mm sawn timber that is

measured to length and cut to fit snugly

between the shrouds on the posts, where

there is no vehicle access required.

There are three lengths at 5.4m provided

for the side walls and for the rear flank.

In some applications the timber may be

sited onto a dwarf wall or similar feature.

Although the timber has been pre-treated

for external use, it should not come into

direct contact with soaked substrates or

the ground. This can be prevented by applying a damp proof course

(not supplied) or raising the timber slightly on to supports.

The vertical uprights also use 47mm x 100mm sawn and pressure

impregnated timber cut to size from 2.4m lengths. The first uprights to

be installed are those that will be fixed to the posts and span between

the sole plate at the bottom and the underside of the horizontal beam at

the top. The wide face (100mm) of the timber should be fixed flat to the

post to the outside edge . This is so cladding is readily accepted for

fixing later and is affixed to the outer face of the post.

As the shrouds at the bottom of the posts stand proud of the posts,

it will be necessary to carefully measure and cut a small section

from the 47mm x 100mm upright in order that it can be fixed flush to

the post & .

The upright is secured to the post using 100mm galvanised nails for

external application (provided) .44

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39 40

41

42 43 44

13

SECTION 2: BUILDING THE SUB-FRAME FOR GARAGES ONLY

Inside ofstructure

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Once the post uprights have been secured in place,

the intermediate uprights can be fixed. There are

seven intermediate uprights for each of the two sides to

be clad .

Measure and mark an equal distance between the

Beamlock posts on each side of the garage. Measure along

the sole plate on the floor and horizontal beam above, to

identify the centre point of the side wall. This is where thefirst intermediate upright will be positioned. Measure the

height between the top of the sole plate and the bottom of

the beam, where the upright will be inserted.

Trim the end of the upright to this measurement and secure

in place using 100mm galvanised nails provided (two to the

top and two to the bottom) spiked in at an angle on either

edge of the upright & .

In the same manner measure, mark and trim a further three

intermediate uprights to be positioned on each side of the

centre upright that has just been secured. This will be atapproximately 600mm centres.

Note: The uprights are to be placed on the outer edge of

the sole plate and beam with the wide face (100mm)

facing outwards. This is so cladding is readily accepted

for fixing later. Care should be taken to ensure the

uprights are secured in the true vertical.

Having secured the sole plate and the uprights into position the side wall

section is now braced with diagonal timbers of 25mm x 100mm in the pattern

shown . At each stud attach the brace using 3no. 3.75mm dia. x 65mm

galvanised nails.

The bracing timber should be cut at the appropriate angle to butt cleanly

against the post at the top and the opposite, corresponding brace at the

bottom and then fixed to the inside of the frame .

The bracing is then nailed to the uprights where the two intersect.

Once all the sub-frame (sole plate, uprights and bracing) is secured

to the garage, the sole plate can be secured to the ground by drilling through

the timber into the foundations and securing with M10 x 100mm anchor

bolts .

There should be three anchor bolts spaced evenly down either side of the

garage sides and two to each of the two back sole plates.

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49

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45

45

46

48 49 50

51

47

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A 25mm x 50 mm cladding stop is now

measured, cut and nailed vertically

through the wide (50mm) face to the

sides of the main posts at the front of

the garage. The cladding stop should

finish flush to the rear corner of the

front post.

The cladding stop is trimmed at an

angle to butt up to the shroud at the

bottom and finishes flush with the top of

the post and is secured using 50mm

galvanised nails.

The cladding stop for the two rear corner

posts is used as a stop for both the side

and rear cladding. It is fixed thought the

wide (50mm) face to the garage sides on

the rear of the posts and projects 25mm beyond the line of the

building. This is to provide a stop for the rear cladding .

The rear of the garage is different to the sides as there is an

additional post in the centre of the wall. The sole plate and the

uprights are cut and fixed in the same manner as previously

described, however there are four intermediate uprights to

each of the two sections at the rear of the garage.

The sole plate and beam should be measured and marked so

that the intermediate uprights are fixed in an equal distance

from each other, within each of the two rear sections at

approximately 500mm centres. Cross bracing is then cut and

fixed as previously described .

Measure the correct overlap requirement of 125mm for the cladding

around the building and mark the position as a guide on the vertical

uprights, the subframe and the cladding stop to ensure a horizontal

finish for the cladding.

Starting at the bottom and working up as far as the main horizontal

beams, cladding can now be measured and trimmed to the correct

length and nailed using 50mm galvanised nails.

Cladding is nailed to the uprights and posts, to the external face of the

garage. Each piece of cladding should overlap the piece below by25mm and should be nailed 30mm from the bottom edge. Each nail

only passes through the top piece of

cladding and this piece of cladding pinches

the top of the piece below.

The sections of cladding that adjoin the

shrouds will need to be cut to suit, to ensure

a flush finish .

The finished garage should now be rigid and

ready for roof preparation .SECTION 3:56

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55

56

15

54

47 x 100mmupright

CladdingStop

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All roofing rafters are pre-cut and pre-treated, ready

for assembly.

Note: Rafters must always be erected in pairs as

opposed to completing a single side first.

The wall plate, 47mm x 100mm sawn and preservativetreated timber that has been pre-notched, marked for

rafters and cut to length, is nailed (using 100mm

galvanised nails) to the outer edges of the two short

perimeter beams to the front and rear of the garage or

car port .

To secure the bottom of each rafter, place the birds

mouth (cut into each rafter), over the wall plate .

The tops of the rafters, which are cut to an angle, will

then be secured to a horizontal pre-treated ridge board, which is already marked with an X to identify

where each pair of rafters will be secured.

Note: The ridge board shown will need to move over

to the left so the rafters align with the outer X mark.

3.1: GABLE-END ROOF (28 AND 45 PITCH OPTIONS)

The 30 rafters for the roof are now assembled.

Note: You will need temporary support for the pre-treated ridge board.

Starting with the two end pairs of rafters, nail to the wall plate at the bottom

using 100mm galvanised nails and rest together at the top.

The ridge board is then pushed up horizontally into the inverted V joint of

the rafters at the top and is pinched into position where it can be nailed

in the correct position using 3 x 75mm galvanised nails .62

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59

60

16

A

E

B

C

D

F

X mark forposition of rafters

SECTION 3: BUILDING THE ROOF

GABLE-END ROOF COMPONENTS

A Ridge Board x 1200mm x 25mm x 5.6m

B Roof Bracings x 4100mm x 25mm x 4.8m

C Common Rafters x 30

28 Pitch: 150mm x 47mm x 3.36m

45 Pitch: 150mm x 47mm x 3.99m

D Wall Plates x 2100mm x 47mm x 5.6m

E Studding x 12100mm x 47mm x 3.0m

F Collars x 7100mm x 47mm x 3.0m

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65

61 62

Rafters must be secured at equal intervals along the width of

the roof structure , starting with the two pairs of end rafters,

which must be fixed flush to the outer face of the

47mm x 100mm wall plate using 100mm galvanised nails.

Note: The rafters for 45 roofs should be fixed to the wall

plate using 2no. 4.2mm dia. x 100mm galvanised nails.

28 roofs will require 4no. 4.2mm dia. x 100mm galvanised

nails, or can be fixed using BAT truss clips, but these are

not supplied with the kit.

Rafters are secured to the pre-marked ridge board using

75mm galvanised nails.

A long length of straight timber temporarily secured in a

vertical position will assist in achieving a straight edge guide

from which the rafters can be started .

These are followed by the middle rafters and continue by

infilling the gaps, halving the spaces as you proceed and not

working in a line. This prevents pressure accumulating in onearea and stops distortion of the ridge board.

Continue along the roof assembling the rafters in pairs .

Once complete cross bracing of the rafters is required.

To cross brace, 25mm x 100mm sawn and treated timber is

cut and nailed using 65mm galvanised nails at a diagonal to

prevent movement & .

Once all the bracing is secured 47mm x 100mm horizontal

strengthening timbers (collars) are added to every second pairof rafters (see on page17) by bolting through the pre-drilled

holes in the rafter and the collar and securing with the

12 x 120mm bolts provided.

Now the second set of vertical uprights that form the gable-

end are measured, cut and fixed to the end beam at the

bottom and the end pairs of rafters at the top. These vertical

uprights are located to the garage sides, directly above the

lower intermediate uprights and are secured in the same

manner with the wide face (100mm) facing out and secured

with 100mm galvanised nails.

Now continue the cladding (in the manner previously

described) up the gable end up to the rafters and trim at an

angle to finish flush with the top of the rafter.

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17If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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3.2: BARN-END ROOF

The barn-end roof differs from the gable-end

roof in construction, but assembly is the same

with the exception that the first pairs of rafters

to be erected are the third pair in from the ends

of the garage .

Secure the wall plates as previously described.

Identify the common rafters (those of the same

length that span from the ridge to the wall

plate). Start by securing the third pair of rafters

from each end (first pair of full or commonlength rafters) followed by the middle rafters and

then infill with the remainder.

Rafters are secured to the 47 x 100mm pre-

treated wall plate that sits on the outer

perimeter of the front and back of the frame by

using 2no. 4.2mm dia. x 100mm galvanised

nails, and secured to the ridge and hip boards

using 75mm galvanised nails .

The five central vertical uprights (studding) and

horizontal cross piece (wall plate) that will

form the barn end are supplied pre-cut from

47mm x 100mm sawn and treated timber, and

should be formed into a frame to support the

smaller end rafters.

Note: The frame should be constructed so

that the narrow 47mm edge is facing the

outside of the structure. This is contrary to

the rest of the framework.

The frame is constructed by nailing the cross

piece of timber to the five upright timbers atequal intervals. The frame should then be

positioned centrally on top of the long side

beams on the outer edge and nailed into

position .70

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A

EF

B

G

IH

C

D

BARN-END ROOF COMPONENTS

A Ridge Board x 1200mm x 25mm x 4.0m

B Collars x 7100mm x 47mm x 3.0m

C Roof Bracings x 4100mm x 25mm x 4.8m

D Common Rafters x 22150mm x 47mm x 3.99m

E Wall Plates (notched) x 2100mm x 47mm x 5.6m

F Studding x 12100mm x 47mm x 3.0m

G Wall Plates x 2100mm x 47mm x 1.65m

H Jack Rafters x 14150mm x 47mm x various

I Hip Boards x 4175mm x 38mm x 1.810m

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The small hip boards that form the angle of the

barn-end are now secured onto the horizontal

timber frame (on top of the five central uprights)

and the angles are checked for accuracy .

The hip boards on the barn-end will overlap the

gable-end and should not be trimmed.

The remaining barn-end rafters at each end are

secured to the horizontal cross beam frame (on

top of the five central uprights). The rafters will

overlap the gable-end and should not be trimmed

& .

47mm x 100mm sawn timber studding is then

cut and secured wide face out (100mm) to infill

the gable-end on either side of the garage, on the

outer edge of the beam. This is directly above the

bottom intermediate uprights.

Note: This should revert back to the 100mmwide edge facing outwards to support the

cladding. The remaining two pairs of rafters at

each end of the garage are now secured to

both the wall plate at the bottom, identified by

the "birds mouth" and the small hip boards at

the top, identified by the pre-cut angle.

Once complete, cross bracing of the rafters is

required. To cross brace, 25mm x 100mm sawn

and treated timber is cut and nailed diagonally

across the inside of the roof structure using50mm galvanised nails .

The roof will now be near completion and ready

for some horizontal strengthening collars to be

secured.

47mmx 100mm treated timbers are pre-cut and

drilled to span horizontally between every second

pair of rafters and are bolted into place. All rafters

have been pre-drilled to accept the bolts for the

fixing of the strengthening collars .

The roof structure is now complete and you can

continue the cladding (in the manner previously

described) to the gable-end up to the rafters and

trim at an angle to finish flush with the top of the

rafter. Cladding is cut to profile and inserted up

and around the jack rafters and hip boards that

form the barn-end to close in the side.

The rafters are now ready to accept your choice

of roofing material, which must overlap the outer

rafter by a minimum of 25mm to overhang the

cladding.

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19If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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3.3: HIPPED ROOF

The wall plate, where the bottom of the rafters are to be secured, will need to be marked around the perimeter of

the garage/car port.

Special care should be taken as there are an extra pair of rafters along the width of the roof.

Rafters should be placed at an equal distance from the corners of the frame (where the diagonal hip boards will be

located).The four longest rafters (two pairs) for the roof that run from front to back at the centre of the garages/car

ports width are now assembled, as previously described, in pairs. You will need temporary support for the small

ridge board, which has been measured and marked to identify where each pair of rafters will be secured.

Again, the birds mouth is fitted over the outer edge of the wall plate and secured using 2no. 4.2mm dia. x 100mm

galvanised nails, and the angle at the other end will fit flush to the diagonal ridge board using 75mm galvanised nails .

Next, the four long hip boards that splay the roof are secured from the ends of the small ridge board, where the

four rafters join.

Further rafters are then fixed in pairs, according to length, down each of the four diagonal hip boards.

The rafters are now ready to accept your choice of roofing material.

20

HIPPED ROOF COMPONENTS

A Ridge Board x 1200mm x 25mm x 400mm

B Common & Jack Rafters x 50

150mm x 47mm x various

C Wall Plates x 4100mm x 47mm x 5.0m

D Hip Boards x 4175mm x 38mm x 4.69m

C

D

A

B

If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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21

3.4: BATTENS AND CEDAR SHINGLES

Pre-treated 25mm x 50mm battens are nailed into the rafters

at right angles, starting from the eaves and working up towards

the ridge.

Using 65mm galvanised nails, secure the first length of batten

horizontally and flush to the bottom of the rafters to overlap their

outer edge by 25mm each side and overlapping the top of the

wall cladding .

Then secure battens to the outer rafters running from the ridge

at the top, down to meet the previously (first) fitted horizontal

batten at the bottom. Again this batten should overlap the outer

rafters by 25mm, finishing flush to the end of the first batten at

the bottom. This creates an overhang and neatly covers the top

of the cladding.

Starting from the bottom continue laying the batten up the roof

at intervals of 140mm. At the top you will need to secure afurther horizontal batten to fix the ridge tiles to. When a batten

has to be joined, this should be done on a rafter and not butted

unsupported.

Cedar shingles come in widths of between 75mm - 320mm and

are approximately 400mm long. Shingles should be laid with the

thick edge facing towards the ground. Shingles should be mixed

by using a selection of tiles from opened bundles to ensure that

a variation of widths are used to form a random pattern.

By selecting the appropriate size cedar shingles create asmall overhang to the sides of the roof. This overhang should

be no more than 20mm and the shingles must be securely

fastened .

Cedar shingles must be fixed using either silicone bronze or

stainless steel 31mm x 1.8mm angular ring nails, nailed 20mm

from each side and 40mm above the exposure line. The first

course (bottom) of shingles must be laid as a double course

with each tile being approximately 6mm away from its

neighbour. Vertical joints should overlap by at least 30mm.

Further courses are added in a similar manner.

Cedar shingles can be cut with a handsaw to fit the required

dimensions for angles and widths.

Once the roof has been tiled a ridge tile (flexible from 20 - 50)

is fixed in the same manner over the ridge and, where

applicable, any hipped areas. The ridge tiles should be laid from

both ends of the roof, working in towards the centre. The thick

edge of the ridge tile should be facing outward and laid at an

interval of 167mm, giving a coverage of 6 tiles per linear metre.

At the centre of the ridge where tiles from either end meet, a

further ridge tile is cut to length and secured over the twoadjoining centre tiles to form a saddle to finish the roof.

Note: Where there are hips these should be completed first

and the ridge second .79

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COMPONENTS SIZE (W x D x L) QUANTITY OF COMPONENTS PER GARAGE

FRAME 45 Barn-End 40 Hipped 45 Gable-End 28 Gable-End

Posts 138mm x 138mm x 2.165m 6 6 6 6

Short Beams 138mm x 165mm x 2.628m 4 4 4 4

Long Beams 138mm x 165mm x 4.968m 3 3 3 3

Braces (Reinforced) 48mm x 155mm x 900mm 6 6 6 6

Wall Studs 100mm x 47mm x 2.4m 30 30 30 30

Sole Plates 100mm x 47mm x 5.4m 2 2 2 2

Sole Plates 100mm x 47mm x 2.7m 2 2 2 2

Diagonal Wall Bracings 100mm x 25mm x 3.6m 6 6 6 6

End Plates 138mm x 165mm 10 10 10 10

Corner Stops 50mm x 25mm x 2.4m 4 4 4 4

Feather-Edge Sides 150mm x 19mm x 5.4m 40 40 40 40

Feather-Edge Back 150mm x 19mm x 5.7m 20 20 20 20Feather-Edge Gable 150mm x 19mm x 5.4m 27 - 27 20

ROOF

Wall Plates (Notched) 100mm x 47mm x 5.6m 2 2 2 2

Wall Plates (45 Barn-end only) 100mm x 47mm x 1.65m 2 - - -

Wall Plates (40 Hipped only) 100mm x 47mm x 5.0m - 2 - -

Collars 100mm x 47mm x 3.0m 6 - 8 8

Ridge Board 200mm x 25mm 1 x 4.0m 1 x 400mm 1 x 5.6m 1 x 5.6m

Hip Boards 175mm x 38mm 4 x 1.81m 4 x 4.69m - -

Common & Jack Rafters 150mm x 47mm x various lengths 36 50 30 30Gable Roof Kit (Studwork) 100mm x 47mm x 3.0m 12 - 12 12

Roof Bracings 100mm x 25mm 4.8m 4 - 4 4

Cedar Shingle Tiles (Bundle) 75-320mm widths x 400mm long 21 20 21 17

Cedar Shingle Ridge Tiles 75-320mm widths x 450mm long 77 130 36 36

Battens 25mm x 50mm 380m 336m 380m 320m

2 BAY GARAGES

22

COMPONENTS SIZE (mm) QUANTITY

GENERAL 45 Barn-End 40 Hipped 45 Gable-End 28 Gable-End

M10 Anchor Bolts (foot plates) 10 24 24 24 24

M10 Anchor Bolts (sole plates) 10 10 10 10 10

Bolts & Washers 12 x 120 12 - 16 16

Long Pins 194 24 24 24 24

Short Pins 80 12 12 12 12

Wooden Grommets 12 12 12 12 12

Top Plates (pre-drilled) 110 x 110 6 6 6 6

Screws 100 12 12 12 12

Galvanised Nails 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG

50 2 1 2 - 2 1 2 1

65 5 1 5 - 5 1 4 1

75 1 - 1 1 1 - 1 -

100 3 1 3 1 3 1 3 1

Annular Ring Nails 31 5 1 6 - 5 - 4 1

O

O

O

O

O

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2 BAY CAR PORTS

ALL SIZES ARE APPROXIMATE

Posts come complete with a metal cruciform inserted in the top of each and an adjustable base plate inserted into the bottom.

Trimmed posts come complete with an adjustable base plate inserted into the bottom.

Beams come complete with metal beam kits at either end.

Each bundle pack covers approximately 2.5 square metres.

These items are only available with optional roof pack.O

23

COMPONENTS SIZE (W x D x L) QUANTITY OF COMPONENTS PER CAR PORT

FRAME 45 Barn-End 40 Hipped 45 Gable-End 28 Gable-End

Posts 138mm x 138mm x 2.165m 6 6 6 6

Posts (Trimmed) 138mm x 138mm x 2.0m 2 2 2 2

Short Beams 138mm x 165mm x 2.628m 4 4 4 4

Long Beams 138mm x 165mm x 4.968m 3 3 3 3

Braces (Reinforced) 48mm x 155mm x 900mm 14 14 14 14

End Plate 138mm x 165mm 10 10 10 10

Feather-Edge Gable 150mm x 19mm x 5.4m 27 - 27 20

ROOF

Wall Plates (Notched) 100mm x 47mm x 5.6m 2 2 2 2

Wall Plates (45 Barn-end only) 100mm x 47mm x 1.65m 2 - - -

Wall Plates (40 Hipped only) 100mm x 47mm x 5.0m - 2 - -

Collars 100mm x 47mm x 3.0m 6 - 8 8Ridge Board 200mm x 25mm 1 x 4.0m 1 x 400mm 1 x 5.6m 1 x 5.6m

Hip Boards 175mm x 38mm 4 x 1.81m 4 x 4.69m - -

Common & Jack Rafters 150mm x 47mm x various lengths 36 50 30 30

Roof Bracings 100mm x 25mm 4.8m 4 - 4 4

Cedar Shingle Tiles (Bundle) 75-320mm widths x 400mm long 21 20 21 17

Cedar Shingle Ridge Tiles 75-320mm widths x 450mm long 77 130 36 36

Battens 25mm x 50mm 380m 336m 380m 320m

COMPONENTS SIZE (mm) QUANTITYGENERAL 45 Barn-End 40 Hipped 45 Gable-End 28 Gable-End

M10 Anchor Bolts (foot plates) 10 24 24 24 24

Bolts & Washers 12 x 120 12 - 16 16

Long Pins 194 24 24 24 24

Short Pins 80 28 28 28 28

Wooden Grommets 12 28 28 28 28

Top Plates (pre-drilled) 110 x 110 6 6 6 6

Screws 100 12 12 12 12

Galvanised Nails 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG 1KG BAG 0.5KG BAG

50 1 - - - 1 - 1 -

65 5 1 5 - 5 1 4 1

75 1 - 1 1 1 - 1 -

100 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 -

Annular Ring Nails 31 5 1 6 - 5 - 4 1

O

O

O

O

O

If you have any queries please contact our HELPLINE on 0845 601 7886.

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For more information and a list of distributors in your area

visit www.finnforest.co.uk or call 0800 00 44 44.

Wood is the only building material that is truly renewable,

if well managed. Forest certification schemes give assurance

that the timber is legal and from sustainable sources.

Finnforest UK sources certified timber over uncertified

and is an approved Chain of Custody supplier.

FF2783 February 2008.

The photographs in this brochure are for illustration purposes only.

All measurements and dimensions are accurate at time of going to press.All approximate dimensions have been highlighted.

Finnforest reserves the right to change or revise the product specification

and range without notice.

trade professional

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