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Korea
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Simon Richmond, Megan Eaves, Trent Holden,
Rebecca Milner, Phillip Tang, Rob Whyte
#_
North Koreap306
Gangwon-dop119
Jeju-dop231
Jeollanam-dop208
Busan &Gyeongsangnam-do
p182
Gyeongsangbuk-dop147Jeollabuk-do
p263
Chungcheongnam-dop276
Chungcheongbuk-dop293
Seoulp38
Around Seoulp94
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Korea . . . . . . 4
Korea Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Korea’s Top 13 . . . . . . . . . . .8
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16
First Time Korea . . . . . . . .18
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Month by Month . . . . . . . 23
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Outdoor Activities . . . . . 29
Regions at a Glance . . . . 34
SEOUL . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
AROUND SEOUL . . . . 94Gyeonggi-do . . . . . . . . . . 95The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) & Joint Security Area (JSA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Heyri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Suwon & Around . . . . . . . 101Anyang Art Park . . . . . . . . 104Donggureung . . . . . . . . . . 104Namhansanseong . . . . . . 104Icheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Incheon- gwangyeok-si . . . . . . . . 106Incheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Yeongjongdo . . . . . . . . . . . 112Muuido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112West Sea Islands . . . . . . . 115Ganghwado . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
GANGWON-DO . . . . .119Chuncheon . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Samak-san . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Sokcho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Seoraksan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 129Gangneung . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Pyeongchang . . . . . . . . . . 139Gohan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Odaesan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 142Samcheok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Wonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Chiaksan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 145
GYEONGSANGBUK- DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147Daegu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Gyeongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Pohang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Ulleungdo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Andong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Hahoe Folk Village . . . . . . 179Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 180Juwangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 180
BUSAN & GYEONGSANGNAM- DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Busan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Gajisan Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 197Geojedo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Tongyeong . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Jinju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Namhaedo . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Jirisan National Park – East . . . .206
JEOLLANAM-DO . . . 208Gwangju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209Damyang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Unju-sa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Gurye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Suncheon & Around . . . . 217Yeosu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Boseong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Gangjin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Haenam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Wando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Mokpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Dadohae Haesang National Park . . . . . . . . . . 229
JEJU-DO . . . . . . . . . . 231Jeju-si . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Eastern Jeju-do . . . . . . . 241Gimnyeong Beach . . . . . . 241Manjang-gul . . . . . . . . . . . 242Woljeong Beach . . . . . . . . 243
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
FLICK
R R
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AN
4 / GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
GANGNAM (P52), SEOUL
FIDE
LIS S
IMA
NJU
NTA
K / G
ET
TY IM
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ES ©
TRADITIONAL HANOK
Contents
Sehwa-ri & Hado-ri . . . . . 243Seongsan-ri & Sinyang-ri . . . . . . . . . . . 244Seongeup Folk Village . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Southern Jeju-do . . . . . 249Seogwipo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Jungmun Resort & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Sagye-ri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Central Jeju . . . . . . . . . . 257Hallasan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 257Sangumburi . . . . . . . . . . .260Western Jeju-do . . . . . . 260Moseulpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260Inland Region . . . . . . . . . . 261Hallim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
JEOLLABUK-DO . . . 263Jeonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Naejangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 269Muju & Deogyusan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 270Gochang & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Byeonsan-bando National Park . . . . . . . . . . 273Gunsan & Seonyudo . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Daejeon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Gyeryongsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 282Gongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Magok-sa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Buyeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Boryeong & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Sapsido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
Taean-haean National Marine Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Cheongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294Songnisan National Park . . . . . . . . . .298Chungju . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299
NORTH KOREA . . . . 306Pyongyang . . . . . . . . . . . 308Kaesong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Panmunjom & the DMZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Myohyangsan . . . . . . . . . . 321Hamhung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Wonsan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Kumgangsan . . . . . . . . . . . 323Nampo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Sinchon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Paekdusan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Chilbosan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Chongjin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Rajin-Sonbong . . . . . . . . . 326Understand North Korea . . . . . . . . . . 327Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 335
Korea Today . . . . . . . . . . 340
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
The Korean People . . . . 363
In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
Arts & Architecture . . . . . . . . . .377
The Natural Environment . . . . . . . . . 382
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 388
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 397
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 422
UNDERSTAND
SURVIVAL GUIDE
SPECIAL FEATURES
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . 29
The Korean People . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . .367
Arts & Architecture . . . . . . . .377
The Natural Environment . . . . . . . 382
Itineraries
JAPAN
NORTHKOREA
CHINASeoul
ChuncheonSokcho
SeoraksanNational Park
GangneungJeongdongjin
SamcheokHwanseongul &Daegeumgul Haesindang
Park
Hahoe FolkVillage
GyeongjuSeokguram
Busan
Jeju-do
É
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#•
#•
É
É
W E S T S E A( Y E L L O W S E A )
S O U T H S E A( E A S T C H I N A S E A )
E A S T S E A( S E A O F J A PA N )
#•
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#•ÉDMZ
South Korea’s Highlights
Access the best of Korea on this trip taking in the dynamic capital Seoul, the southern port of Busan, lost-in-time country towns, quirky sights and beautiful Jeju-do.
Spend four or five days in Seoul, including a day trip north to the DMZ. Next head east to Chuncheon, where you can cycle around Uiam Lake and sample the town’s fa-mous chicken dish, dakgalbi.
Dine on fresh seafood in Sokcho then hike around the stunning peaks and waterfalls of Seoraksan National Park. Follow the coast south to Gangneung to view well-preserved Joseon-era buildings, quirky museums and a tiny North Korean spy submarine at Unification Park in Jeongdongjin. From Samcheok explore the huge Hwanseongul and Daegeumgul caves, as well as Haesindang Park, packed with phallic sculptures.
Delve into Korea’s past at serene Hahoe Folk Village and Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Shilla kingdom, where you can spend a couple of days exploring royal tombs, the excellent museum and the World Heritage–listed grotto at Seokguram.
Busan, with its fish market, beaches and urban buzz, is worth a few days. From here fly to Jeju-do, where you can enjoy amazing volcanic scenery on leisurely hikes.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
2 WEEKS
25
This cross-country itinerary is ideal for those looking to experience the more rustic and natural side of South Korea, with stops on ruggedly beautiful islands and hikes along leafy mountain trails.
From Incheon International Airport it’s a quick hop to the small, idyllic island of Muuido, from where you can walk to So-Muuido or relax on lovely beaches. Enjoy Chinese food in the historic Chinatown of Incheon, then stroll around the Open Port area. Take a direct bus to Suwon, where you can stride around the ramparts of the me-ticulously reconstructed fortress wall.
Gongju and Buyeo, the ancient capitals of the Baekje kingdom, are your next stops – hillside tombs, a fortress and museum will give you an insight into Korea’s oldest dy-nasty. After enjoying the sand, seafood and mud skincare spa of Daecheon Beach, sail to the serene island of Sapsido, where you can spend the night. Return to Daecheon and continue north by bus to Anmyeondo, the largest island in the Taean Haean National Marine Park. Continue working on your tan at either Khotji Beach or Mallipo Beach, or hike some the new Haebyeongil trails through the park.
Travel inland to Daejeon to soak at Yuseong Hot Springs. Continue to Cheongju, learn about the world’s oldest printed book then move on to Songnisan National Park, covering central Korea’s finest scenic area and home to a 33m-tall gold-plated Buddha statue.
Chungju is the gateway to lovely Woraksan National Park and for a two-hour scenic ferry trip across Chungju Lake to sleepy Danyang, which is small-town Korea at its most charming. Explore nearby limestone caves and the stately temple complex of Guin-sa within Sobaeksan National Park.
Use Andong as a base for exploring the surrounding area packed with attractive river and lakeside villages. It’s only a couple of hours by bus from here to Pohang. From Pohang visit Bogyeong-sa temple in a gorgeous valley with 12 waterfalls, then board the ferry to Ulleungdo, a sparsely inhabited, volcanic island.
3 WEEKS
#–
NORTHKOREA
Muuido &So-Muuido
Gongju
Incheon
IncheonInternational
Airport
YuseongHot Springs
Buyeo #•
SapsidoDaecheon
Beach
Suwon
Chungju LimestoneCaves
DanyangÉ
#•
#•
W E S T S E A( Y E L L O W S E A )
E A S T S E A( S E A O F J A PA N )
ÉMallipoBeach
É
SongnisanNational Park
WoraksanNational Park
Guin-sa
Andong
#•Bogyeong-sa
É
Ulleungdo
#f
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#•#•
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#•#•
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#•#•
Taean HaeanNational Park
Anmyeondo#•
#•
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Khotji Beach
#• Daejeon
Cheongju
Pohang
É
É
É
É
West Sea to East Sea
26
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ItIn
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Ies
This 850km route around Korea’s greenest and least-industrialised region offers the opportunity to visit scores of rural islands, dine in countless seafood restaurants and dig deep into artistic traditions.
Jeonju has a fascinating hanok village crammed with traditional houses and build-ings. Use it as a base for visiting the 6th-century Geumsan-sa temple in Moaksan Provincial Park. Don’t miss Maisan Provincial Park, where you can hike between a pair of ‘horse ear’ mountains and see a sculptural garden of stone pinnacles piled up by a Buddhist mystic at the Tap-sa temple. Alternatively, go hiking or skiing in beautiful Deogyusan National Park.
The industrial port city of Gunsan boasts Korea’s largest collection of Japanese-colonial-period buildings. From here hop on a ferry to the relaxing island of Seonyudo, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views from here are unbelievably beautiful.
Bronze and Iron Age tombs dot the lush green hills around the small village of Gochang, where you can also explore the 15th-century, ivy-covered Moyang Fortress.
Further south, Gwangju is home to several interesting historical sites, museums and a major arts complex. Make a day trip to Damyang to stroll the sandy trails through its Juknokwon bamboo grove. Move on to the port of Mokpo to board boats to the remote havens of Heuksando and Hongdo in the Dadohae Haesang National Park.
Admire Korea’s centuries-old tradition of pottery at Gangjin and taste products made from healthy green tea at the beautiful Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation.
Go bird spotting in the Ramsar-listed wetlands of Suncheon Bay then continue to Yeosu, site of Expo 2012 and access point for Dolsando, where you can hike up to Hyangiram, a Buddhist temple perched on a cliff.
For a final island experience, take in terraced rice paddies and misty temples on picturesque Namhaedo. The trail finishes at Korea’s second-largest city, Busan.
2 WEEKS
Seonyudo
Mokpo
Gwangju
Damyang
MoaksanProvincial Park
Yeosu
Gochang;Moyang Fortress
Hyangiram
Gunsan
Jeonju
SuncheonBay
É
W E S T S E A( Y E L L O W S E A )
S O U T H S E A( E A S T C H I N A S E A )
Hongdo &Heuksando
DadohaeHaesang
National Park
BoseongDaehan
Dawon TeaPlantation
É
Namhaedo
#•
DeogyusanNational Park#•Jinan
BusanÉ
Maisan Provincial Park
#•
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É
É
#•#•
#•Dolsando
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Tap-sa
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Gangjin
The Deep South Trail
27PLAN
YOUR TRIP It
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This two-centre itinerary is well suited to parents travelling with kids.
Seoul’s many parks, interactive muse-ums and, in summer, outdoor swimming pools are ideal for family fun. Older kids will most likely be happy cruising the capi-tal’s vast shopping malls and department stores looking for souvenirs of Korea’s per-vasive pop culture.
Day trips include the beaches of the West Sea islands; Korea’s biggest amuse-ment park, Everland; and the Korean Folk Village. The latter two can just as easily be visited from Suwon, where it’s fun to walk around the walls of an 18th-century fortress. North of Seoul, the modern village of Heyri offers inventive sculptures and art exhibits.
Hop on a flight to Jeju-do, blessed with a fascinating volcanic landscape and dozens of sandy beaches. Amusement and water parks, cycle and skate hire and a whole raft of adventure activities, from quad biking to scuba diving, are possible on this fun-packed island with plenty of world-class resorts.
2 WEEKS Seoul & Jeju Jaunt
Some of South Korea’s top temples feature on this route linking its two main cities.
In Seoul attend a Templelife program at Jogye-sa or Bongeun-sa. Danyang is the transit point for Sobaeksan National Park, where you’ll find modern Guin-sa, headquarters of the Cheontae sect.
Daegu is the base for trips to stunning Haein-sa, housing a World Heritage–listed library of more than 80,000 14th-century woodblocks, and Jikji-sa, a magnificent temple dating to the 5th century.
Jinan is the access town for Tap-sa, a tiny temple surrounded by two ‘horse ear’ mountains and an extraordinary sculptur-al garden of 80 stone pinnacles (or towers). From Gwangju, visit Unju-sa, with its fine collection of stone pagodas and unusual twin and reclining Buddhas.
From Gongju, one-time capital of Ko-rea’s Baekje dynasty, visit remote Magok-sa, with a hall of 1000 pint-sized disciples who are all slightly different.
Finish just outside of Busan at Tongdo- sa, which has an excellent Buddhist art museum containing 30,000 artefacts.
2 WEEKS
JAPAN
NORTH KOREA
W E S T S E A( Y E L L O W S E A ) E A S T S E A
( S E A O F J A PA N )
É
#•
Seoul
Danyang
Daegu
West SeaIslands
Busan
Everland;Korean Folk Village
Suwon
Heyri
Gwangju
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#–
É
Jeju-do
#•Jinan
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ÉÉ
É#•Gongju
#•SobaeksanNational Park
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City & CountrySeoul & Jeju Jaunt
City & Country
28
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ItIn
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422
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/MRT/MTR station
Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
Rebecca MilnerJeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do, Chungcheongnam-do Lucky for Rebecca, Korea is just a short flight from her home in Tokyo. Previous trips had already sold her on the charms of makgeolli and jjimjilbang, so she jumped at the chance to explore the country’s southern reaches for this edition. Highlights included eating live octopus in Mokpo, steaming in the saltwater baths in Hampyeong and having morning tea on the veranda of a 100-year-old home in Jeonju. Rebecca has also
written Lonely Planet’s guides to Tokyo and Japan. Follow her on Twitter @tokyorebecca. Rebecca also wrote the Arts & Architecture chapter.
Phillip TangGangwon-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Chungcheongbuk-do Phillip Tang spent this trip inviting himself to Korean homes, tagging along to local street eats and being out-hiked by Koreans twice his age bolting up mountains. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan, Mexico and Peru, and for other publishers. Find his photos, tweets and articles from this Korea visit through philliptang.co.uk. Phillip also wrote the In
the Korean Kitchen, The Natural Environment and Survival Guide chapters.
Rob Whyte Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeju-do A Busan resident for more than 15 years, Rob spends several weeks each year backpacking across the country in search of secluded getaways. One memorable discovery on this journey was a hamburger restaurant on Udo, which has an amazing collection of Anne of Green Gables memorabilia including a first edition of the book. That discovery was a reminder that we have everything we need for a magnificent journey. Rob also wrote the
Korean People chapter.
Contributing AuthorNorth Korea The author of our North Korea chapter has chosen to remain anonymous.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – February 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 500 5© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Simon Richmond Coordinating author, Seoul UK-born writer and photographer Simon first co- ordinated Lonely Planet’s Korea guide in 2009 when he explored Seoul and its surroundings over several weeks. He liked the place so much that his next visit, to update the 9th edition of Korea and 7th edition of Seoul, saw him spend over two months living in Seoul and travelling down to Jeju-do. For Korea 10, Simon co-ordinated the general coverage of the country and covered central, northern
and western areas of Seoul; he also hiked around the old city walls on a beautiful spring day and had an enjoyable but messy time learning to make magkeolli. Follow him on Twitter, Instagram and at www.simonrichmond.com. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip section, as well as the Korea Today and History chapters.
Megan Eaves Lonely Planet’s North Asia Destination Editor, Megan has worked on Lonely Plan-et’s China guide and is a recent convert to the delights of the Korean peninsula. Originally from New Mexico, she is a mountain girl at heart and an avid skier. For this edition, she researched Korea’s winter activities, downing as much kimchi, fried chicken and soju as she could in between stints on the country’s many snowy slopes. You can follow her on Twitter @megoizzy. Megan contributed to
the chapters Gangwon-do, Around Seoul, Chungcheongbuk-do and Jeollabuk-do.
Trent HoldenAround Seoul Having covered the length of the peninsula on other writing as-signments, this is Trent’s first gig working on the Korea book for Lonely Planet. He researched the regions surrounding Seoul, where he was blown away by the area’s diversity and beauty. Trent has worked on over 20 books for Lonely Planet, covering mainly Asia and Africa. You can catch him on twitter @hombreholden.
OUR WRITERS
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Read more about Megan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/meganeaves
OVERPAGE
MORE WRITERS
Sungnyemun C10Tteok Museum G5Unhyeongung F5Waryongmyo F12Yeongnyeongjeon H5Yeongyeongdang H3
GREATER SEOULTransport
Gimpo Airport A3
Neighbourhoods
Bucheon-si A3Dongdaemun-gu F2Dongjak-gu D4Eunpyeong-gu D1Gangbuk-gu F1Gangnam-gu F4Gangseo-gu A2Goyang-si A1Guro-gu A4Gwanak-gu D5
Gwangjin-gu G2Hongdae C3Ihwa-dong F2Jongno-gu E2Jungnang-gu H2Mapo-gu C2Nowon-gu G1Seocho-gu F5Seodaemun-gu D2Seongbuk-gu F2Seongdong-gu G3Sinchon D3
Songpa-gu H5Yangcheon-gu A4Yeongdeungpo-gu C3Yeouido D4Yongsan-gu E3
Sights
National Museum of Korea E4
Olympic Park H4War Memorial of
Korea E3
CENTRAL SEOULStreets
1st Namsan Tunnel H13
2nd Namsan Tunnel J13
3rd Namsan Tunnel F13
BBukchon-ro F3CChangdeokgung-
gil G4Changgyeonggung-
ro J3-5-8Changuimun-ro C1Cheongwadae-ro D3Chungmu-ro H9DDaehak-ro K3-6Daemyeong-gil J3Dasan-ro L13-M11Deoksugung-gil B8Dongho-ro K7-10Dongsomun-ro
K2-M1Dongsung-gil K4Donhwamun-ro G6Donhwamun-ro
11-gil G6EEulji-ro F8-K8GGamgodang-gil E4Gyedong-gil F4HHuam-ro D13Hyehwa-ro J2Hyoja-ro C4IInsa-dong 5-gil F6Insa-dong 7-gil F6Insa-dong 10-gil F6Insa-dong-gil F6Inwansan-ro A2-A4
JJahamun-ro C4Jangchungdan-ro
J13-L10Jilpae-gil C10Jong-ro F7Jong-ro 1-gil D6Jong-ro 9-gil F7Jong-ro 31-gil J6Jong-ro 41-gil L6Jungmuro F10KKimsangok-ro J6MMajang-ro M8Mareunnae-ro J9Myeong-dong-gil
E9NNamdaemun B13Namdaemun-ro
E8-9Northern Namsan
Circuit F11PPirundae-ro B3-4SSaemunan-ro C7Sajik-ro B5Sajik-ro 8-gil C6Sambong-ro E6Samcheong-ro
E3-5Samil-daero F5-7-9Samil-daero
30-gil G6Samil-daero
32-gil G5Samseongyo-ro L2Samseongyo-ro
16-gil M2Sejong-daero
C11-D6-D8Seongbuk-ro K1Seosomun-ro C9Seosulla-gil G5Sogong-ro E9Sopa-ro E11-F11
Southern Namsan Circuit F13
Sowol-ro D12Supyo-ro G7-9TToegye-ro C11-J9Tongil-ro B9UUjeongguk-ro E6YYulgok-ro G5-L6Yunposun-gil E4
Plazas
Gwanghwamun Sq D6
Time Capsule Sq H11
Transport
Railway Stations
Seoul B11
Subway Stations
Anguk F5Beotigogae K14Cheonggu M10Chungjeongno A10Chungmuro H10City Hall D9Dongdaemun L7Dongdaemun
History & Culture Park L8-9
Dongguk University K10
Euljiro 1-ga E8Euljiro 3-ga H8Euljiro 4-ga J8Gwanghwamun D6Gyeongbokgung C5Hangsung
University L1Hoehyeon D10Hyehwa K3Jonggak E7Jongno 3-ga G6-7Jongno 5-ga K7Myeongdong F10Namyeong C15
Seodaemun A8Seoul Station C11Sookmyung
Women’s University C14
Yaksu M12
Neighbourhoods
Anguk-dong F5Changsin-dong M5Chungsin-dong L5Dangju-dong C5Dongdaemun-gu M7Gahoe-dong E3Garwol-dong C15Gwanghui-dong L9Gye-dong F3Gyeo-dong F4Hyehwa-dong K1Ihwa-dong L5Ikseon-dong G6Inhyung-dong H9Jangchung-dong L11Jongno-gu E5Jung-gu H8Myeongryun 2-ga J2Nagwon-dong F6Namchang-dong D11Namsan-dong F10Pirun-dong B5Sajik-dong A5Samseong-dong M3Seochon B4Seongbuk-gu K2Sogong-dong D9Sogyeok-dong E4Tongui-dong C4Unni-dong G5Yeajang-dong G10Yejang-dong F10Yeongeon-dong J4
Sights
Admiral Yi Sun-Sin’s Statue D7
Agriculture Museum B8
Ahn Jung-geun Memorial Hall E12
Amisan D4Another Way of
Seeing E3Arario Museum in
SPACE G5Arko Art Center K4Artside C4Artsonje Center E4Bank of Korea Money
Museum E9Bongsudae G13Bosingak E7Bukchon Hanok
Village F4Bukchon Traditional
Culture Center F4Central Buddhist
Museum E6Changdeokgung G4Changgyeonggung
H4Cheondogyo
Temple F5Cheong-gye Plaza D7Cheong-gye-cheon D7Cheongwadae D2Cheongwadae
Sarangchae C3Citizens Hall D8City Hall D8Culture Station
Seoul 284 C11Daelim
Contemporary Art Museum C5
Deoksugung C8Dongdaemun
Design Plaza & Park L8
Dongdaemun History
Museum M8Dongdaemun
Stadium Memorial M8
Donggun D4Dong-Lim Knot
Workshop F3Donhwamun G4Gahoe Minhwa
Workshop F3Gallery Hyundai E5Gallery Simon C4Gangyeongjeon D4
Geunjeongjeon D5Gonsindang H6Great Greenhouse H3Gungisi Relics
Exhibition Hall D8Gwanghwamun D5Gwanghwamun
Square D6Gwanghwamun
Square Underground Exhibition D6
Gwangjang Market
J7Gyeongbokgung D4Gyeonghoeru D4Gyeonghuigung B6Gyotaejeon D4Hakgojae E4Hammering Man C7Hamnyeongjeon D8Heunghwamun B7Heunginjimun M7Heungnyemun D5Huwon H3Hwabong Gallery F6
Hyangwonjeong D3Hyehwamun K2Ihwa Maeul L5Injeongjeon G4Jean Art Gallery C4Jeonggwanheon D8Jeongjeon H5Jogye-sa E6Jongmyo H6Jongno Tower E7Junghwajeon C8King Sejong Statue D6
Kukje E4Kyungdong
Presbyterian Church L9
Lock Museum K4MMCA Deoksugung
C8MMCA Seoul E4Mokin Museum F6Myeong-dong
Catholic Cathedral F9
Myeongjeongjeon H4
N Seoul Tower F13Nakseonjae H4Namdaemun
Market E10Namsan Outdoor
Botanical Garden H15
Namsangol Hanok Village H10
National Children’s Museum E3
National Folk
Museum of Korea D3
National Museum of Korean Contemporary History D6
National Palace Museum of Korea D5
Open Air Exhibition E4
PLATEAU C10Ryugaheon C4
Sajikdan B5Sejong Gallery D6SeMA
Gyeonghuigung Museum of Art B7
Seokjojeon; Daehan Empire History Museum C8
Seoul Animation Center F10
Seoul City Wall Museum M6
Seoul Metropolitan
Library D8Seoul Museum of
Art D9Seoul Museum of
History B7Seoul Plaza D8Simsimheon F3Sool Gallery F6Soyoam H3Spring Sculpture D7Stone Pagoda of
Wongak-sa G6Sun Art Center F6
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DONGDAEMUN-GU
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GWANGHUI-DONG
JANGCHUNG-DONG
JONGNO-GU
NAMSAN-DONG YEJANG-
DONG
YEAJANG-DONG
SEONGBUK-GU
HYEHWA-DONG
UNNI-DONGDANGJU-DONG
IHWA-DONGPIRUN-DONG
TONGUI-DONG
NAMCHANG-DONG
NAGWON-DONG
JUNG-GU
GYE-DONG
GYEO-DONG
ANGUK-DONG
GAHOE-DONG
SOGONG-DONG
MYEONGRYUN2-GA
GARWOL-DONG
SOGYEOK-DONG
Seoul CityShopping
Plaza
Gw
angh
wam
un S
q
SAMSEONG-DONG
SEOCHON
YEONGEON-DONG
CHANGSIN-DONG
SAJIK-DONG CHUNGSIN-
DONG
IKSEON-DONG
Chundangji
Sungkyunkwan University
FashionWholesale
& Retail Area
JongmyoPark
NamsanPark
JanchungdanPark
SajikPark
TapgolPark
JongmyoPark
SamcheongPark
NaksanPark
GyeonghuigungPark
DongdaemunHistory &
Culture Park
TimeCapsule
Sq
SamcheongPark
MarronnierPark
Seoul NationalUniversity
Medical CollegeSeoul National
UniversityHospital
Cheong-gye-cheon
Namsan(262m)
Gyeongbokgung
Yaksu
City Hall
Cheonggu
Beotigogae
Hoehyeon
HangsungUniversity
Jongno3-ga Dongdaemun
Gwanghwamun
Chungmuro
Anguk
Dongdaemun History& Culture Park
Jongno3-ga
Seodaemun
SeoulStation
Euljiro 4-ga
Euljiro 1-ga
DonggukUniversity
Euljiro 3-ga
Namyeong
Hyehwa
Jonggak
SookmyungWomen'sUniversity
Chungjeongno
Jongno5-ga
Dongdaemun History& Culture Park
Seoul
Myeongdong
NamsanCable CarStation
Upper CableCar Station
Anguk
Eulji-ro
Saemunan-ro
Samil-daero
Supyo-roJong-ro
Changgyeonggung-ro
Tongil-ro
Majang-ro
Sami l-d a
ero
Daehak-ro
Dae
hak-ro
Eulji-ro
Toegye-ro
Sajik-ro
Jang
chun
gdan
-ro
Dongsomun-r
o
Jilpae-gil
Supyo-ro
Nam
daem
un-ro
Das
an-ro
Sogong-ro
Yulgok-ro
Samil-daero
Seo
sulla
-gil
Inw
ang
san-
ro
Sopa
-ro
Insa-dong-gil
Daemyeong-gil
Samil-daero 30-gil
Insa-dong 5-gil
Gye
dong
-gil
Samil-daero 32-gil
Sopa-ro
Cha
ngde
okgu
n g-g
il
Donhwamun-ro 11-gil
Dongho-ro
3rd Nam
san Tunnel
1st Nam
san Tunnel
2nd
Namsa
n Tu
nnel
Nor
ther
n Nam
san Circuit
Don
gsun
g-gi
l
Ins a-dong 7-gil
Jungmuro
Ihw
ajan
g-gi
l
Sambong-ro
Gam
godang-gil
Deoksugung-gil
Insa-dong 10-gil
Sam
seongyo-ro 16-g il
Seongbuk-ro
Sowol-ro
Huam
-ro
Myeong-dong-gilMareunnae-ro
Samch
eong
-ro
Donhw
amun-ro
Chungm
u-ro
Sajik-ro 8-gil
Jahamun-ro
Nam
daemun
Samseongyo-ro
Hyoja-ro
Seosomun-ro
Hyehw
a-ro
Sam
c he o
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angs
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o
Ch
anguim
un-ro
Buk
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-ro
Yunposun-gil
Dongso
mun-ro
Dasan-ro
Dongho-ro
Cheongwadae-ro
Yulgok-ro
Sejon
g-da
ero
Insa-dong 9-gil
Ujeongguk-ro
Nam
dae m
un-ro
Sejon
g-da
ero
Sout
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Nam
san Circ
uit
Jangchungdan-ro
Toegye-ro
Pir
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Pirundae-ro
Jong
-ro
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l
Insa-dong 4-gil
Kimsangok-ro
Jong-ro 41-gil
Jong-ro 31-gil
Jong
-ro 9
-gil
Sejong-daero
Changgyeonggung-ro
Changgyeonggung-ro
Changdeokgung
Deoksugung
Gyeongbokgung
Jogye-sa
N SeoulTower
NamdaemunMarket
GwangjangMarket
Admiral YiSun-Sin'sStatue
AgricultureMuseum
Ahn Jung-geunMemorial Hall
Amisan
Another Wayof Seeing
ArarioMuseumin SPACE
Arko ArtCenter
Artside
ArtsonjeCenter
Bank of KoreaMoney Museum
Bongsudae
Bosingak
BukchonHanokVillage
Bukchon TraditionalCulture Center
CentralBuddhistMuseum
Changgyeonggung
CheondogyoTemple
Cheong-gye Plaza
Cheong-gye-cheon
Cheongwadae
CheongwadaeSarangchae
CultureStationSeoul 284
DaelimContemporary
Art Museum
DongdaemunDesign Plaza& Park
DongdaemunHistoryMuseum
DongdaemunStadiumMemorial
Donggun
Dong-LimKnot Workshop
Donhwamun
GahoeMinhwa
Workshop
GalleryHyundai
GallerySimon
Gangyeongjeon
Geunjeongjeon
Gonsindang
GreatGreenhouse
Gwanghwamun
Gwanghwamun Square
Gyeonghoeru
Gyeonghuigung
GyotaejeonHakgojae
HammeringMan
Hamnyeongjeon
Heunghwamun
Heunginjimun
Heungnyemun
Huwon
HwabongGallery
Hyangwonjeong
Hyehwamun
IhwaMaeul
InjeongjeonJean ArtGallery
Jeonggwanheon
Jeongjeon
Jongmyo
JongnoTower
Junghwajeon
Kukje
KyungdongPresbyterianChurch
LockMuseum
MMCADeoksugung
MMCASeoul
MokinMuseum
Myeong-dongCatholic Cathedral
MyeongjeongjeonNakseonjae
Namsan OutdoorBotanical Garden
NamsangolHanokVillage
NationalChildren'sMuseum
National FolkMuseum of Korea
National Museum ofKorean ContemporaryHistory
National PalaceMuseum of Korea
Open AirExhibition
PLATEAU
Ryugaheon
Sajikdan
Sejong Gallery
SeMAGyeonghuigungMuseum of Art
Seokjojeon;Daehan Empire
History Museum
SeoulAnimationCenter
City Hall;Seoul Metropolitan Library;
Citizens Hall;Gungisi Relics Exhibition Hall
Seoul City WallMuseum
SeoulMuseum
of Art
Seoul Museumof History
SeoulPlaza
Simsimheon
SoolGallery
Soyoam
SpringSculpture
Stone Pagodaof Wongak-sa
SunArt
Center
Sungnyemun
TteokMuseum
Unhyeongung
Waryongmyo
Yeongnyeongjeon
Yeongyeongdang
Skygarden
King Sejong Statue;Gwanghwamun SquareUnderground Exhibition
6
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Central Seoul #e 0 200 m0 0.1 miles
ParkSportsgroundWater Feature
Cemetery
Train
Cable CarSubway
Pedestrian St/StepsPathLane
Tertiary RdSecondary Rd
Primary RdFreewayTollway
Routes
Areas
Transport
Legend
Seoul
InformationKTO Tourist Information Center (%02-1330); www.visitkorea.or.kr; Cheonggyecheon ro, Jung-gu; h9am-8pm; bLine 1 to Jonggak, Exit 5. The best infor-mation centre; knowledgeable staff, free internet and many brochures and maps.Insa-dong Tourist Information Center (%02-734 0222); Insa-dong 11-gil; h10am-10pm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6. Two more centres are at the south and north entrances to Insadong-gil.
EmergenciesAmbulance, fire (%119)Police (%112)
Bus, Subway & TaxiBus system (www.bus.go.kr; h5.30am-midnight) Comprehensive and reason-ably priced. Some bus stops have bus route maps in English.International Taxi (%02-1644 2255; www.internationaltaxi.co.kr) Has English-speaking drivers; can be reserved in advance for 20% extra.Subway system (www.smrt.co.kr); h5.30am-midnight. Connects up with destinations beyond the city borders.T-Money card (http://eng.tmoney.co.kr) Bus, subway, taxi and train fares can all be paid using the rechargeable, touch-and-go card.
Jogye-sa E6
2 The headquarters of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism is home to Daeungjeon,
the largest temple building in Seoul. It comes alive during the city’s spectacular Lotus Lantern Festival. (www.jogyesa.kr/user/english; 55-Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6)
Gyeongbokgung D3
1 The grandest of Seoul’s palaces. With its restored Gwanghwamun entrance, changing-
of-guard ceremonies and several museums, it’s a place you should set aside at least half a day to see. (www.royalpalace.go.kr/html/eng; bLine 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 5)
Namdaemun Market E10
3 At this sprawling round-the-clock market you can find pretty much anything – from
food and flowers to spectacles and camera equipment. (www.namdaemunmarket.co.kr; 21 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung-gu; bLine 4 to Hoehyeon, Exit 5)
Deoksugung C8
4 Deoksugung (Palace of Virtuous Longevity) is the only one of the four main palaces that
you can visit in the evening to enjoy a quieter at-mosphere and see the buildings illuminated. (www.deoksugung.go.kr; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 2)
Changdeokgung H4
5 A Unesco World Heritage property and the most beautiful of Seoul’s four main palaces,
Changdeokgung (Palace of Illustrious Virtue) was built in the early 15th century. (http://eng.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 3)
Gwangjang Market J7
6 One of Seoul’s best markets. During the day it’s known for secondhand clothes and fab-
rics. At night its alleys fill up with vendors selling all manner of street eats. (88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu; bLine 1 toJongno-5ga, Exit 8, or Line 2 or 5 to Euljiro 4-ga, Exit 4)
N Seoul Tower F13
7 One of Seoul’s most iconic features. If the weather’s fine, the tower’s observation deck
offers panoramic views. At sunset you can watch the city morph into a galaxy of twinkling lights. (www.nseoultower.com; Namsan; gshuttle buses 2, 3 & 5)
National Museum of Korea Greater Seoul E4
8 Korea’s National Museum occupies a grand, marble-lined, modernist complex, and con-
tains cultural treasures from prehistoric times to the Joseon dynasty. (www.museum.go.kr; 137 Seobinggo-ro; bLine 1 or 4 to Ichon, Exit 2)
War Memorial of Korea Greater Seoul E3
9 The huge memorial museum documents the history of warfare in Korea, with photos,
maps, artefacts and black-and-white documen-tary films that give a fascinating insight into war. (www.warmemo.co.kr; 29 Itaewon-ro; bLine 4 or 6 to Samgakji, Exit 12)
Olympic Park Greater Seoul H4
10 This large and pleasant park, a focus of the 1988 Olympics, also contains gal-
leries, museums and sculptures. (www.olympic park.co.kr; 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu; bLine 8 to Mongchontoseong, Exit 1 or Line 5 to Olympic Park Station, Exit 3)
lonelyplanet.comImages by Alex Barlow, Seongjoon Cho, Wendy Connett, dkcyun, Christian Kober/John Warburton-Lee
Photography Ltd, Lim Wai Yen, Richard Nebesky, Simon Richmond, Wibowo Rusli, Steve Vidler/ Getty Images ©. Many thanks to the following for the use of their content: Seoul Metro Map© 2015
Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corp
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SEOCHO-GU
NOWON-GU
SONGPA-GU
GWANGJIN-GU
SEONGDONG-GU
GURO-GU
GWANAK-GU
GANGBUK-GU
DONGDAEMUN-GU
SEODAEMUN-GU
JONGNO-GU
MAPO-GUGANGSEO-
GU
SEONGBUK-GU
YEONGDEUNGPO-GU
GOYANG-SI
IHWA-DONG
SINCHON
HONGDAE
BUCHEON-SI
GANGNAM-GU
YONGSAN-GU
EUNPYEONG-GU
YANGCHEON-GUYEOUIDO
DONGJAK-GU
Han River (Hangang)
Han River (Hangang)
Seoul NationalUniversity
BukhansanNational
Park
SeonyudoPark
HyochangPark
GimpoInternational
Airport
NationalCemetery
WorldCup Park
Baengnyeonsan(216m)
Achasan(278m)
Daemosan(293m)
Inwangsan(338m)
Ansan(296m)
Umyeonsan(290m) Guryongsan
(283m)
Bukaksan(342m)
Namsan(262m)
OlympicPark
NationalMuseumof Korea
War Memorialof Korea
Central Seoul (see reverse)
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