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Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Discover issue #05 of the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN, the free e-magazine about jewellery, gemstones & design. www.jewelleryhistorian.com

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Page 1: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Page 4: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

06-Issue Globe

08-Editor's letter

10-News

News from around the globe

22-Auctions

Important jewels at Christie's

28-Interview : Matthew Campbell Laurenza

40-Travel : Florence

42-Matthew Campbell Laurenza

Seranade to the senses

58- Theodoros

Highly seductive pieces of jewelry

86- Katherine Jetter

The opal's queen

102-The unique breathtaking beauty of gems

Topaz

108-Our Faves

Jewellery we loved this month

116-Our News

The news of the Jewellery Historian�

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Page 5: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

06-Issue Globe

08-Editor's letter

10-News

News from around the globe

22-Auctions

Important jewels at Christie's

28-Interview : Matthew Campbell Laurenza

40-Travel : Florence

42-Matthew Campbell Laurenza

Seranade to the senses

58- Theodoros

Highly seductive pieces of jewelry

86- Katherine Jetter

The opal's queen

102-The unique breathtaking beauty of gems

Topaz

108-Our Faves

Jewellery we loved this month

116-Our News

The news of the Jewellery Historian�

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Page 6: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Page 8: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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TREASURES FROM INDIAJEWELS FROM THE AL-THANI COLLECTION

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

October 28, 2014-January 25, 2015

Gallery 464: Gallery for the Art of Later South Asia

Page 15: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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TREASURES FROM INDIAJEWELS FROM THE AL-THANI COLLECTION

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

October 28, 2014-January 25, 2015

Gallery 464: Gallery for the Art of Later South Asia

Page 16: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

-HZHOOHU\�+LVWRULDQ��� -HZHOOHU\�+LVWRULDQ ���

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Page 17: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Page 18: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

The Teschen Table�A monument commemorating European history. The War of Bavarian Succession broke out in1778, when Maximilian Joseph, Elector ofBavaria, died without a legitimate heir onDecember 30, 1777. The clash betweencontenders to the Bavarian throne, which alsothreatened the interests of the Prince-Electorof Saxony, centered round the rivalry betweenthe Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II and KingFrederick II of Prussia. For six months thisconflict, gravely threatening the balance ofEuropean power, prompted impressive troopmovements and intense diplomaticnegotiations. The emperor's brother-in-law Louis XVI playeda dominant role in the “diplomatic war” led bythe French foreign minister, the Comte deVergennes. The king wisely refused to involveFrance in an armed conflict. Louis-Auguste LeTonnelier, Baron de Breteuil, his ambassador inVienna, was charged with vigorously affirmingFrance’s neutrality and offering to mediate. During the peace negotiations in Teschen, acity now divided into two towns in the CzechRepublic and Poland, Breteuil conductedhimself courteously, discreetly, and skillfully.The Teschen Peace Treaty was signed on May13, 1779, under the successful joint mediation ofFranceandRussia.Asamarkofgratitudeforhisministrations, and particularly forsafeguarding the interests of Saxony, Baron deBreteuil received as a gift from FrederickAugustus III, Elector of Saxony, this tabledecorated with semiprecious stones. TheTeschen Table or Table of Peace, a genuinemonument commemorating a key event inEuropean history, has remained with hisdescendants until today. To many historians, the Teschen Tableimmortalizes the Treaty of Teschen,considered by diplomats to be the first moderntreaty in which two nations, France and Russia,served as guarantors of peace between Austriaand Prussia and, more globally, collectivesecurity in Europe.

A masterpiece by Johann Christian Neuber,goldsmith and mineralogist (1736–1808)�Johann Christian Neuber (1736–1808), a hardstone merchant andprincipal jeweler to the court of Saxony, finished his career as curatorof the royal collections amassed in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault)in Dresden by the electors of Saxony since the Renaissance. Hereinundoubtedly lies the originality of an artist who was also a man ofscience and inventor of the “Zellenmosaic” technique, or mosaiccomposed of hardstones and semiprecious stones extracted fromSaxony’s mineral deposits. Neuber was renowned for his snuffboxes,genuine miniature mineral display cabinets captioned with numbersand accompanied with an explanatory booklet, keenly collected byscientists and scholars. The Louvre has twelve of these exceptionalSteinkabinett Tabatieren on display in the new Department ofDecorative Arts galleries devoted to the 18th century (room 56). During the Enlightenment, while Paris was the undisputed capital oftaste and fashion in Europe, Neuber distinguished himself by hispersonal, innovative style. With the Teschen Table, Neuber createdone of the first neoclassical masterpieces in Germany: shaped feet,garland decoration, palmette friezes, fluted legs reinterpreted to exaltthe goût grec (Greek taste). The grisaille medallions painted onSaxony porcelain by Johann Eleazar Zeissig, known as Schenau, arestill in keeping with the rococo tradition, but the iconography isclearly inspired by the Antiquity and neoclassical in nature,particularly the central medallion depicting the closing gates of thetemple of war and the flame reignited over the altar of Peace. A new masterpiece for the recently inaugurated 18th-centurydecorative arts galleries. Solemnly presented on January 1, 1780 to the Court of Dresden, andcelebrated as far as Versailles upon its arrival in France in August, theTeschen Table has remained in the Breteuil family since the 18thcentury,andhasrarelybeenexhibitedoutsidetheChâteaudeBreteuil,in the Chevreuse Valley, 40 km west of Paris. In 2012, it was the focus ofremarkable exhibitions at the Grünes Gewölbe (Dresden), the FrickCollection (New York), and the Galerie Kugel (Paris). The addition of this exceptional table to the Louvre's new 18th-centurydecorative arts galleries inaugurated in June 2014 would be a highlightof the museum. Showcased within the revamped museum space, theartwork would be given a worthy setting at the center of theneoclassical masterpieces. Its acquisition is a unique opportunity to welcome a masterpiecewhose symbolic, historical, and artistic dimensions naturallyresonate with the Louvre's vocation as a national museum.

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Page 19: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

The Teschen Table�A monument commemorating European history. The War of Bavarian Succession broke out in1778, when Maximilian Joseph, Elector ofBavaria, died without a legitimate heir onDecember 30, 1777. The clash betweencontenders to the Bavarian throne, which alsothreatened the interests of the Prince-Electorof Saxony, centered round the rivalry betweenthe Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II and KingFrederick II of Prussia. For six months thisconflict, gravely threatening the balance ofEuropean power, prompted impressive troopmovements and intense diplomaticnegotiations. The emperor's brother-in-law Louis XVI playeda dominant role in the “diplomatic war” led bythe French foreign minister, the Comte deVergennes. The king wisely refused to involveFrance in an armed conflict. Louis-Auguste LeTonnelier, Baron de Breteuil, his ambassador inVienna, was charged with vigorously affirmingFrance’s neutrality and offering to mediate. During the peace negotiations in Teschen, acity now divided into two towns in the CzechRepublic and Poland, Breteuil conductedhimself courteously, discreetly, and skillfully.The Teschen Peace Treaty was signed on May13, 1779, under the successful joint mediation ofFranceandRussia.Asamarkofgratitudeforhisministrations, and particularly forsafeguarding the interests of Saxony, Baron deBreteuil received as a gift from FrederickAugustus III, Elector of Saxony, this tabledecorated with semiprecious stones. TheTeschen Table or Table of Peace, a genuinemonument commemorating a key event inEuropean history, has remained with hisdescendants until today. To many historians, the Teschen Tableimmortalizes the Treaty of Teschen,considered by diplomats to be the first moderntreaty in which two nations, France and Russia,served as guarantors of peace between Austriaand Prussia and, more globally, collectivesecurity in Europe.

A masterpiece by Johann Christian Neuber,goldsmith and mineralogist (1736–1808)�Johann Christian Neuber (1736–1808), a hardstone merchant andprincipal jeweler to the court of Saxony, finished his career as curatorof the royal collections amassed in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault)in Dresden by the electors of Saxony since the Renaissance. Hereinundoubtedly lies the originality of an artist who was also a man ofscience and inventor of the “Zellenmosaic” technique, or mosaiccomposed of hardstones and semiprecious stones extracted fromSaxony’s mineral deposits. Neuber was renowned for his snuffboxes,genuine miniature mineral display cabinets captioned with numbersand accompanied with an explanatory booklet, keenly collected byscientists and scholars. The Louvre has twelve of these exceptionalSteinkabinett Tabatieren on display in the new Department ofDecorative Arts galleries devoted to the 18th century (room 56). During the Enlightenment, while Paris was the undisputed capital oftaste and fashion in Europe, Neuber distinguished himself by hispersonal, innovative style. With the Teschen Table, Neuber createdone of the first neoclassical masterpieces in Germany: shaped feet,garland decoration, palmette friezes, fluted legs reinterpreted to exaltthe goût grec (Greek taste). The grisaille medallions painted onSaxony porcelain by Johann Eleazar Zeissig, known as Schenau, arestill in keeping with the rococo tradition, but the iconography isclearly inspired by the Antiquity and neoclassical in nature,particularly the central medallion depicting the closing gates of thetemple of war and the flame reignited over the altar of Peace. A new masterpiece for the recently inaugurated 18th-centurydecorative arts galleries. Solemnly presented on January 1, 1780 to the Court of Dresden, andcelebrated as far as Versailles upon its arrival in France in August, theTeschen Table has remained in the Breteuil family since the 18thcentury,andhasrarelybeenexhibitedoutsidetheChâteaudeBreteuil,in the Chevreuse Valley, 40 km west of Paris. In 2012, it was the focus ofremarkable exhibitions at the Grünes Gewölbe (Dresden), the FrickCollection (New York), and the Galerie Kugel (Paris). The addition of this exceptional table to the Louvre's new 18th-centurydecorative arts galleries inaugurated in June 2014 would be a highlightof the museum. Showcased within the revamped museum space, theartwork would be given a worthy setting at the center of theneoclassical masterpieces. Its acquisition is a unique opportunity to welcome a masterpiecewhose symbolic, historical, and artistic dimensions naturallyresonate with the Louvre's vocation as a national museum.

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Page 22: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Christie’s London announced highlights of theupcoming Important Jewels auction on 26November 2014. The sale ( sale 1874 ) includesan array of both antique and modern jewellery,signed pieces by the great houses such asCartier, Chaumet, Dior, Graff, Mauboussin,Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels, together withsome exceptional coloured stones anddiamonds. The sale totals 444 lots and isexpected to achieve in excess of £9 million. Leading the sale is a late 19th century sapphireand diamond brooch (estimate: £400,000-500,000, illustrated left). At over 14 carats, thisexceptional treasure was once owned by theHon Evelina Rothschild, and could well havebeen a wedding present to the bride when shemarried Clive Behrens on 5 December 1899.What makes this brooch so special is thesapphire which is of Kashmir origin, bears noindications of heating and is rare in its finelyproportioned cut and richly saturated colour.The sale offers two more highly desirablesapphires, a ‘royal blue’ late 19th centuryBurmese sapphire and diamond pendant ofover 41 carats (estimate £200,000-300,000),and a Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring of 23carats (estimate £200,000-300,000). With collectors’ ever-increasing demand forinvestment quality diamonds, Christie’sLondon is proud to offer an excellent selectionof stones in a variety of cuts and colours. Thereare several private collections within this sale,each containing rare jewels of high importance. Christie’s is honoured to present The Propertyof a Lady, sold by order of The Executors. Thisprivate collection features a group of beautifulVan Cleef & Arpels Mystery-Set jewels; thepatented mystery setting techniqueexemplifies the jewellery house’s superb levelof craftsmanship. >

CHRISTIE'S®

IMPORTANT JEWELS/RQGRQ�����1RYHPEHU�����

Lot 444A LATE 19TH CENTURY SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCHEstimate: £400,000-500,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 438A PAIR OF DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY GRAFF Estimate: £150,000-180,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 440A FANCY COLOURED DIAMOND RINGOf crossover design, set with twoopposing pear shaped diamonds,comprising a Fancy Deep Blue diamondweighing approximately 1.54 carats and aFancy Intense Pink diamond weighingapproximately 1.78 carats, to taperingshoulders and plain hoop. Estimate: £300,000-500,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

AUCTIONS

Page 23: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Christie’s London announced highlights of theupcoming Important Jewels auction on 26November 2014. The sale ( sale 1874 ) includesan array of both antique and modern jewellery,signed pieces by the great houses such asCartier, Chaumet, Dior, Graff, Mauboussin,Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels, together withsome exceptional coloured stones anddiamonds. The sale totals 444 lots and isexpected to achieve in excess of £9 million. Leading the sale is a late 19th century sapphireand diamond brooch (estimate: £400,000-500,000, illustrated left). At over 14 carats, thisexceptional treasure was once owned by theHon Evelina Rothschild, and could well havebeen a wedding present to the bride when shemarried Clive Behrens on 5 December 1899.What makes this brooch so special is thesapphire which is of Kashmir origin, bears noindications of heating and is rare in its finelyproportioned cut and richly saturated colour.The sale offers two more highly desirablesapphires, a ‘royal blue’ late 19th centuryBurmese sapphire and diamond pendant ofover 41 carats (estimate £200,000-300,000),and a Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring of 23carats (estimate £200,000-300,000). With collectors’ ever-increasing demand forinvestment quality diamonds, Christie’sLondon is proud to offer an excellent selectionof stones in a variety of cuts and colours. Thereare several private collections within this sale,each containing rare jewels of high importance. Christie’s is honoured to present The Propertyof a Lady, sold by order of The Executors. Thisprivate collection features a group of beautifulVan Cleef & Arpels Mystery-Set jewels; thepatented mystery setting techniqueexemplifies the jewellery house’s superb levelof craftsmanship. >

CHRISTIE'S®

IMPORTANT JEWELS/RQGRQ�����1RYHPEHU�����

Lot 444A LATE 19TH CENTURY SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCHEstimate: £400,000-500,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 438A PAIR OF DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY GRAFF Estimate: £150,000-180,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 440A FANCY COLOURED DIAMOND RINGOf crossover design, set with twoopposing pear shaped diamonds,comprising a Fancy Deep Blue diamondweighing approximately 1.54 carats and aFancy Intense Pink diamond weighingapproximately 1.78 carats, to taperingshoulders and plain hoop. Estimate: £300,000-500,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

AUCTIONS

Page 24: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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TOP SIGNED JEWELS : CARTIER

The Cartier section of this sale comprises over 70pieces, and encapsulates the broad spectrum ofdesign of this great jewellery house; from an early20th century enamel and diamond desk clock, ArtDeco aquamarine and diamond ear pendants, anemerald and diamond scarab brooch of the 1950s,to the modern day with eleven iconic ‘Panthere’jewels, each capturing the essence of this famousCartier motif in their sleek and alluring form. Among the Cartier pieces to be presented at theauction, an early 20th century enamel anddiamond minute repeating desk clock ( Lot 223,illustrated right) with an estimate of£15,000-20,000. The circular cream dial withblack painted Arabic numerals and rose- cutdiamond-set hands, to the white enamel beadedbezel and blue guillochI enamel case, with furtherwhite enamel borders and central single rose-cutdiamond star motif accents, with moonstone pushpiece, raised on a carved agate base, mechanicalmovement, circa 1915, 7.0cm high. Among the Cartier pieces at this sale, a gem anddiamond scarab clip brooch ( Lot 220, illustratedbelow). The scarab motif has permeated jewellerydesign since the time of the ancient Egyptians,who worshiped this beetle as a symbol of the sungod. Napoleon’s expedition to Egypt in 1798 began arenaissance in the fascination of Egyptian motifsin the decorative arts. After the opening of the Suezcanal in 1867, all things Egyptian were againbrought to the fore and jewellery with this designinfuence was very popular, including the scarabmotif. This fashion was revived in 1923 at the discovery ofTutankhamun’s tomb. Cartier were quick torecognise the design possibilities that Egyptiansymbolism had to offer and both incorporatedancient fragments into their works, as well as usingthe prevalent imagery as inspiration for overalldesign. This particular brooch is an unusualexample as it dates from a later period, the 1950sand combines both Cartier’s knowledge ofEgyptian and Indian jewels, utilising a carvedIndian emerald to represent the scarab’s wingcovers.��

Lot 220A GEM AND DIAMOND SCARAB CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIEREstimate: £8,000-12,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 177 A DIAMOND ‘PANTHERE’ RING, BY CARTIEREstimate: £12,500-18,500

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 223AN EARLY 20TH CENTURY ENAMEL AND DIAMOND MINUTEREPEATING DESK CLOCK, BY CARTIEREstimate: £15,000-20,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 417A PAIR OF MYSTERY-SET RUBY ANDDIAMOND ‘FLEURETTES’ EARPENDANTS, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELSEstimate: £80,000-100,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 403A SINGLE-STONE DIAMOND RING, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELSEstimate: £150,000-200,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 240A PAIR OF ART DECO AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND EARPENDANTS, BY CARTIEREstimate: £20,000-25,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT

www.christies.com

( SALE 1574 )

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Page 25: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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TOP SIGNED JEWELS : CARTIER

The Cartier section of this sale comprises over 70pieces, and encapsulates the broad spectrum ofdesign of this great jewellery house; from an early20th century enamel and diamond desk clock, ArtDeco aquamarine and diamond ear pendants, anemerald and diamond scarab brooch of the 1950s,to the modern day with eleven iconic ‘Panthere’jewels, each capturing the essence of this famousCartier motif in their sleek and alluring form. Among the Cartier pieces to be presented at theauction, an early 20th century enamel anddiamond minute repeating desk clock ( Lot 223,illustrated right) with an estimate of£15,000-20,000. The circular cream dial withblack painted Arabic numerals and rose- cutdiamond-set hands, to the white enamel beadedbezel and blue guillochI enamel case, with furtherwhite enamel borders and central single rose-cutdiamond star motif accents, with moonstone pushpiece, raised on a carved agate base, mechanicalmovement, circa 1915, 7.0cm high. Among the Cartier pieces at this sale, a gem anddiamond scarab clip brooch ( Lot 220, illustratedbelow). The scarab motif has permeated jewellerydesign since the time of the ancient Egyptians,who worshiped this beetle as a symbol of the sungod. Napoleon’s expedition to Egypt in 1798 began arenaissance in the fascination of Egyptian motifsin the decorative arts. After the opening of the Suezcanal in 1867, all things Egyptian were againbrought to the fore and jewellery with this designinfuence was very popular, including the scarabmotif. This fashion was revived in 1923 at the discovery ofTutankhamun’s tomb. Cartier were quick torecognise the design possibilities that Egyptiansymbolism had to offer and both incorporatedancient fragments into their works, as well as usingthe prevalent imagery as inspiration for overalldesign. This particular brooch is an unusualexample as it dates from a later period, the 1950sand combines both Cartier’s knowledge ofEgyptian and Indian jewels, utilising a carvedIndian emerald to represent the scarab’s wingcovers.��

Lot 220A GEM AND DIAMOND SCARAB CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIEREstimate: £8,000-12,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 177 A DIAMOND ‘PANTHERE’ RING, BY CARTIEREstimate: £12,500-18,500

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 223AN EARLY 20TH CENTURY ENAMEL AND DIAMOND MINUTEREPEATING DESK CLOCK, BY CARTIEREstimate: £15,000-20,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 417A PAIR OF MYSTERY-SET RUBY ANDDIAMOND ‘FLEURETTES’ EARPENDANTS, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELSEstimate: £80,000-100,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 403A SINGLE-STONE DIAMOND RING, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELSEstimate: £150,000-200,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

Lot 240A PAIR OF ART DECO AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND EARPENDANTS, BY CARTIEREstimate: £20,000-25,000

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S © CHRISTIE'S

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT

www.christies.com

( SALE 1574 )

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Page 26: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

JH Travel®

EXCLUSIVE: British Airways's First Class Experience

On-board elegance Style & Comfort First dining

Read insideBritish Airways First

The finest way to

travel

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THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Page 27: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

JH Travel®

EXCLUSIVE: British Airways's First Class Experience

On-board elegance Style & Comfort First dining

Read insideBritish Airways First

The finest way to

travel

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THE TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT OF THE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Page 28: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Infused with inspiration from countries worldwide and his background in sculpture, jewelry andarchitecture, American designer Matthew Campbell Laurenza blends experiences and culturesto produce unique and distinctive jewelry designs. Matthew Campbell Laurenza makes hispresence known in the fashion world with his extravagant, statement accessories. Sincelaunching M.C.L Design in 1998, he has captivated admirers around the globe by his glamorousjeweled pieces created with his signature style.

How did you start your label? Originally, I studied sculpture and realized that Iwanted to be as prolific as possible. To make alarge impact, I turned to jewelry. Jewelry is smallsculpture and is something that can not only beadmired (like traditional sculpture) but it is alsosomething that can be worn and is obviouslyhighly mobile. In 1998, I opened M.C.L Designand have been doing it ever since. This year, Ilaunched the first sculpture exhibition since mygraduation and it can be seen onwww.Jeweledgarden.com. How do you approach a new collection? Wheredo your ideas come from? I approach collections on a very sculptural level.I often toy around with shapes and volumesand determine what shapes would work bestfor the end user. Once the shape has beendetermined, design elements become thedecorative element for the shape—the“frosting,” if you will—and the two combinedresult in the final design. Colors and stone

assortment are the next element and are oftenbased on color or seasonal trends. In this way Ialways remain current. The most valuable lesson you have learned ? To do what is true to you and your aesthetic. Ifyou can develop something that is unique andyour style then you will find a market. The worldis now a very small place so product that oncewas limited to sales in a single region now hasthe possibility to sell all over the world with theright outreach and marketing. How do you define luxury? Luxury is often driven by the pricetag it really issomething more—it is the value of a design, itsrarity in the market place, and of course thematerials used. The desire for uniqueness andrarity is one of the reasons we offer so manyvariations in color and styles. Our clients do notwant to be “cookie cutter.”

Interview to Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

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Page 29: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Infused with inspiration from countries worldwide and his background in sculpture, jewelry andarchitecture, American designer Matthew Campbell Laurenza blends experiences and culturesto produce unique and distinctive jewelry designs. Matthew Campbell Laurenza makes hispresence known in the fashion world with his extravagant, statement accessories. Sincelaunching M.C.L Design in 1998, he has captivated admirers around the globe by his glamorousjeweled pieces created with his signature style.

How did you start your label? Originally, I studied sculpture and realized that Iwanted to be as prolific as possible. To make alarge impact, I turned to jewelry. Jewelry is smallsculpture and is something that can not only beadmired (like traditional sculpture) but it is alsosomething that can be worn and is obviouslyhighly mobile. In 1998, I opened M.C.L Designand have been doing it ever since. This year, Ilaunched the first sculpture exhibition since mygraduation and it can be seen onwww.Jeweledgarden.com. How do you approach a new collection? Wheredo your ideas come from? I approach collections on a very sculptural level.I often toy around with shapes and volumesand determine what shapes would work bestfor the end user. Once the shape has beendetermined, design elements become thedecorative element for the shape—the“frosting,” if you will—and the two combinedresult in the final design. Colors and stone

assortment are the next element and are oftenbased on color or seasonal trends. In this way Ialways remain current. The most valuable lesson you have learned ? To do what is true to you and your aesthetic. Ifyou can develop something that is unique andyour style then you will find a market. The worldis now a very small place so product that oncewas limited to sales in a single region now hasthe possibility to sell all over the world with theright outreach and marketing. How do you define luxury? Luxury is often driven by the pricetag it really issomething more—it is the value of a design, itsrarity in the market place, and of course thematerials used. The desire for uniqueness andrarity is one of the reasons we offer so manyvariations in color and styles. Our clients do notwant to be “cookie cutter.”

Interview to Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

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Page 38: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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What materials and techniques do you favor? I am a big fan of gemstones—especially thosethat have a wide variation of colors likesapphires or tourmalines. In my namesakecollection M.C.L, I use fancy-color sapphireswhich I pair with bright enamel colors toincrease the drama of the design and accentthe beauty of the stones. I choose to usesterling silver as a base which means that I cancreate large statement pieces with all of thestones individually hand-set while keepingthem obtainable to a wider audience. Where do you got the inspiration for your latestcollection ? I draw all of my inspiration from the decorativearts and architecture that I encounter in mytravels. The design aspects have beeninspired by curiosities I find scattered aroundauctions, junk shops, museums and on thebuildings that hold them. The attitude of thepieces are inspired by interesting people,customers or icons that I admire. Do you have a favorite designer (fashion,architect, or other) that you admire ? Fashion-PoiretArchitecture- Louis Henry Sullivan Artist- Louise NevelsonJeweler- Rene Lalique Your favorite ancient culture that inspires you. This is such a hard question because there areso many interesting aspects in so manyancient cultures. In Asia, the Khmer empirehad so many beautiful and decorative thingswhich have inspired me. The pre-Columbiancultures have influenced many designs withtheir severe treatment of lines. In Europe, theDark Ages with their gothic architecture isconstantly a source of inspiration. Persia withits Ottoman architecture. I could go on and on.

Your heroes in real life ? My Family is always there to support me andgive encouragement. Regardless of success,there is always a need for a team supporting youand they are that for me. A material you believe that will never stop usingin your collections ? Stones. I can t get enough of them. The accessory/jewelry/gemstone you can't livewithout. Accessory- PhoneJewelry- watchGemstone- sapphires What we should expect from you in the future ? I will be creating more lifestyle oriented pieces. Iwant to share my aesthetic in as many aspectsof one’s life as possible. Your favorite motto? Let design be part of your life.

Page 39: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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What materials and techniques do you favor? I am a big fan of gemstones—especially thosethat have a wide variation of colors likesapphires or tourmalines. In my namesakecollection M.C.L, I use fancy-color sapphireswhich I pair with bright enamel colors toincrease the drama of the design and accentthe beauty of the stones. I choose to usesterling silver as a base which means that I cancreate large statement pieces with all of thestones individually hand-set while keepingthem obtainable to a wider audience. Where do you got the inspiration for your latestcollection ? I draw all of my inspiration from the decorativearts and architecture that I encounter in mytravels. The design aspects have beeninspired by curiosities I find scattered aroundauctions, junk shops, museums and on thebuildings that hold them. The attitude of thepieces are inspired by interesting people,customers or icons that I admire. Do you have a favorite designer (fashion,architect, or other) that you admire ? Fashion-PoiretArchitecture- Louis Henry Sullivan Artist- Louise NevelsonJeweler- Rene Lalique Your favorite ancient culture that inspires you. This is such a hard question because there areso many interesting aspects in so manyancient cultures. In Asia, the Khmer empirehad so many beautiful and decorative thingswhich have inspired me. The pre-Columbiancultures have influenced many designs withtheir severe treatment of lines. In Europe, theDark Ages with their gothic architecture isconstantly a source of inspiration. Persia withits Ottoman architecture. I could go on and on.

Your heroes in real life ? My Family is always there to support me andgive encouragement. Regardless of success,there is always a need for a team supporting youand they are that for me. A material you believe that will never stop usingin your collections ? Stones. I can t get enough of them. The accessory/jewelry/gemstone you can't livewithout. Accessory- PhoneJewelry- watchGemstone- sapphires What we should expect from you in the future ? I will be creating more lifestyle oriented pieces. Iwant to share my aesthetic in as many aspectsof one’s life as possible. Your favorite motto? Let design be part of your life.

Page 40: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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Page 42: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

M.C.L by Matthew CampbellLaurenza’s woman’s collectionlaunched at Bergdorf Goodman in2007 to commercial and criticalacclaim. With notable mentions inThe New York Times and TimeMagazine, Matthew CampbellLaurenza makes his presenceknown in the fashion world with hisextravagant, statementaccessories. Since launching M.C.LDesign in 1998, he has captivatedadmirers around the globe by hisglamorous jeweled pieces createdwith his signature style.

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Page 43: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

M.C.L by Matthew CampbellLaurenza’s woman’s collectionlaunched at Bergdorf Goodman in2007 to commercial and criticalacclaim. With notable mentions inThe New York Times and TimeMagazine, Matthew CampbellLaurenza makes his presenceknown in the fashion world with hisextravagant, statementaccessories. Since launching M.C.LDesign in 1998, he has captivatedadmirers around the globe by hisglamorous jeweled pieces createdwith his signature style.

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THEODOROSHighly seductive pieces of jewelry

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Theodoros, 34 today, was born in Kavalain the North of Greece. His formaleducation is in the field of Biochemistryand MBA. Currently based in Athenswhere his workshop is also located,Theodoros produces a very limitedcollection of 8 to 12 pieces a year. "We passionately design and materializehighly seductive pieces of jewelry."Every piece takes from one to six monthsto be made and is a unique combinationof nature's precious gifts. Working by appointment, his one of akind jewels can be spotted anywherefrom the Hollywood red carpet to awedding in Riyadh. This irresistable jewelry has been wornby several celebrities such as DemiMoore, Michelle Rodriguez, Kanye West,Orlando Bloom, Miranda Kerr, PenelopeCruz, Miley Cyrus, and many more! As if out of a Greek play, Theodorosbrings the image of the human drama inharmony with the mystical functions ofmother nature.

Inspired by the mystery of life, by themost profound human emotions, Love,Loss, Desire, Power. . . We dream, we wish, we imagine, webelieve, we choose.. . we are motivated byour emotions and we reach to them, weexperience life. . . Crafted by the most valuable naturalmaterials, Theodoros jewelry combinespirituality with the fetishism of matter,two worlds with unclear boarders.Religious beliefs, scientific facts,cultural mores and human intuition, allinvolved in the ancient struggle for theownership of Truth. . . the holy grail of thehuman drama, the ultimate fetish,Freedom itself! His unique and beautifully craftedjewellery, they make the difference,since they are unique pieces of hautejoaillerie.

www.theodoros.com.gr

Page 61: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

THEODOROSHighly seductive pieces of jewelry

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Theodoros, 34 today, was born in Kavalain the North of Greece. His formaleducation is in the field of Biochemistryand MBA. Currently based in Athenswhere his workshop is also located,Theodoros produces a very limitedcollection of 8 to 12 pieces a year. "We passionately design and materializehighly seductive pieces of jewelry."Every piece takes from one to six monthsto be made and is a unique combinationof nature's precious gifts. Working by appointment, his one of akind jewels can be spotted anywherefrom the Hollywood red carpet to awedding in Riyadh. This irresistable jewelry has been wornby several celebrities such as DemiMoore, Michelle Rodriguez, Kanye West,Orlando Bloom, Miranda Kerr, PenelopeCruz, Miley Cyrus, and many more! As if out of a Greek play, Theodorosbrings the image of the human drama inharmony with the mystical functions ofmother nature.

Inspired by the mystery of life, by themost profound human emotions, Love,Loss, Desire, Power. . . We dream, we wish, we imagine, webelieve, we choose.. . we are motivated byour emotions and we reach to them, weexperience life. . . Crafted by the most valuable naturalmaterials, Theodoros jewelry combinespirituality with the fetishism of matter,two worlds with unclear boarders.Religious beliefs, scientific facts,cultural mores and human intuition, allinvolved in the ancient struggle for theownership of Truth. . . the holy grail of thehuman drama, the ultimate fetish,Freedom itself! His unique and beautifully craftedjewellery, they make the difference,since they are unique pieces of hautejoaillerie.

www.theodoros.com.gr

Page 62: Jewellery Historian, issue #05

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