Jewellery Historian, issue #12

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Jewellery Historian

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INTRODUCING MORATORIUM 29A unique perspective on simplified and timeless style

COVER STORY PALMIERO 41Exquisite pieces of art, unique as the people who wear them

INTERVIEW FRÉDÉRIC MATHON & FRÉDÉRIC MANÉ 67An introduction to the creative world of MATHON

A NEW MUST YANNIS SERGAKIS 93Different level of commitment, a different tying knot

169SPOTLIGHT GUCCIGucci introduces Flora motif in a contemporary assortment of feminine designs

REGULARS

EDITOR’S LETTEROur editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue

ISSUE GLOBEAll the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance

NEWS News from around the world

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The editor’s jewellery choice of the month

Jewellery Historian | SUMMER 2015

Jewellery for an important moment of lifeOUR FAVES

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS TURQUOISEEva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue

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EDUCATION GECITime for a “Master in Gem and Jewelry management” 179DESIGNER MOMENTS MEGHNA PATELJewellery designer Meghna Patel talks about what she treasures most in life 192

NEW COLLECTION LEYLA ABDOLLAHI 113Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness

3Jewellery Historian | SUMMER 2015

Kallithea springs, Rhodes, Greece

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EDITOR’S LETTER

This issue represents so much for us all at the Jewellery Historian. It is our twelfth issue that marks our first birthday as a magazine. This issue repre-sents a huge amount of love and support, the love and support all of you unconditionally offered us during our first year.

This issue also marks the arrival of Panayiotis Simopoulos, who accepted to join our team as creative director-at-large. Panayiotis is the rarest kind of creative artist, one who creates extraordinary images. With a unique creative vision, whilst maintaining a clear vision of delivering a message that speaks directly to the reader, he ultimately creates an exciting and balanced visual experience, which is the perfect approach for our vision of Jewellery Historian.

Together with many of the most talented young photographers, I am sure that he’ll deliver, from our next issue, the most memorable, exciting and unique images and fashion editorials that the magazine has ever pub-lished.

When I decided to create this magazine, I wanted to share my aesthetic vision of my biggest passions, jewellery and creativity. I believe that with our great team we succeeded and we promise to offer you the best qual-ity and keep our standards at the highest levels.

Our standards are definitely high and will remain high. We are not snob or arrogant, but we are very selective. One of our missions as a team and as a magazine, is to educate, inspire and to promote jewellery & timepieces designers, the expertise and vision of famous international maisons and talented young designers with the goal of raising the awareness of jewel-lery & timepieces design, as a form of creative expression. After all, lux-ury is not an industry, but a language.

I hope you will enjoy reading and I wish you all a great summer 2015 !!!

Lucas Samaltanos-FerrierFounder & Editor-in-Chief


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In every issue, we introduce you to the most talented jewellery designers and business peo-ple.

At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others.

Discover the designers & brands that we are honored to showcase in this issue.

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Carlo PALMIERO

Carlo Palmiero grew up in the 60’s in Valenza, a small town of Piedmont, a region in the northern part of Italy. Palmiero by bucking the trend and modify-ing the standards of classical jewellery (which in those years mostly referred to solitaire, contrarié or important centers surrounded by diamonds) moved the attention from the “centre” to the whole object. He dilated the shapes and expanded the attention to the whole jewel surface. His rings become 360° sculptures, including the shank, which is now protagonist and not only simple stand.

Nowadays, Carlo Palmiero, together with his team, conceives his fantastic and fascinating creations in the modern laboratory-atelier inaugurated in Va-lenza in 2007. PALMIERO Jewellery Design shows top quality and creativity, authentically “haute de gamme” and authentically Made in Italy.

Frédéric MANÉ

Frédéric Mané was born in south France, in Perpignan, in 1982. He spent his child-hood near Collioure, the famous city of painters.

He first started his artistic career in 2000, when he studied product design in Paris. Working his different design studios in Paris, from Nina Ricci, to Arthus Bertrand jew-ellery and Swarovski, he had the unique opportunity to work on different collections, including perfume’s bottles and jewellery. After this creative trip, he joined a design agency, creating precious items for Montblanc. He also collaborated to elaborate different luxury life-style projects for Lancel, and accessories for italian designer Roberto Cavalli.

Since 2009, he is the head designer for Mathon’s collection and designs as well all special orders, produced by Mathon. His sources of inspiration are arts and famous muses of history. Antique legends meet nature in motion and dragonfly wings the dewdrop of leaves.

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Leyla ABDOLLAHI

Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness, Leyla Abdollahi’s jewellery suc-cessfully demands your attention. The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confident sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dra-matic jewellery with a story to tell.

Born and raised with both Eastern and Western influences, Leyla Abdollahi who has a fine arts background successfully honed her natural ability in jewel-lery design when she studied for her BA in Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design.

Her handcrafted jewellery provokes the kind of visual pleasure that has caught the attention of many industry insiders and has led to collaborations.

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Jeanette Lai THOMAS

Moratorium is a creator of precious metal jewelry designed and handcrafted in Brooklyn, New York. Drawing inspiration from lines, forms and structures — both man-made and natural —Moratorium presents a unique perspective on simplified and timeless style. Dynamic and meticulously crafted silhou-ettes are the heart of the collection and create immediate distinction from other contemporary collections.

Founded in 2009 by designer Jeanette Lai Thomas, Moratorium has an ever-growing following of non-conformists around the world. Transcending sea-son, trend or gender, each piece is designed and hand-finished by Lai Tho-mas in her workshop. Working within a design ethos founded on creativity and authenticity and only accepting the highest quality possible, Moratorium designs are perpetually refined throughout the creative process. In a pro-vocative expression of individuality, Moratorium works exclusively with pre-cious metals and diamonds—a rare quality in contemporary jewelry today.

Yannis SERGAKIS

Yannis Sergakis is the descendant of a well-established family of Greek dia-mond traders. He was drawn into the alluring world of precious stones while still a child, when he spent hours observing his uncles in their showroom.

After studying gemology and design at the Gemological Institute of Amer-ica, Yannis Sergakis worked as a trader alongside his family until 2004, when he set up his own business. More interested in creating exquisite jew-els than signing them, he started collaborating with renowned jewellery houses in Greece and abroad.

Over thirty collections later, with the maturity of a designer who has spent a decade honing his craft and the assertiveness of someone whose sought after pieces sell at the world’s most exclusive boutiques, Yannis Sergakis has taken the most important step yet – creating his own signature line.

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FRÉDÉRIC MATHON

Frédéric MATHON is one of the rare French CEO who is leading company and workshop where jewels have always been producing in a pure French traditional way.

After he has graduated from High School of Commerce in 1976, Frédéric MATHON joined family workshop bringing young and dynamic breath to the company. Nevertheless, this visionary CEO looks further.

This dynamic CEO is more than company’s President. He is soul and body of the company. He works closely with Design Department, participates in de-velopment of new collections and supervises all levels of production process from the drawings to the final jewel on customer’s finger.Even if his passion for jewellery is immense his curiosity and the interest in other people makes him much more rich.

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Honoring the moon’s majesty is the Clas-sico Lady Luna. Moon’s lure has af-fected and fascinated the natural world for millenniums.

A traditionally styled timepiece, the Clas-sico Luna draws inspiration from the moon in a different way. Similar in princi-ple to the limited-edition Moonstruck’s indication of the moon’s phases and based on a development with Ludwig Oechslin DNA, the Classico Luna pre-cisely depicts the moon’s rotation in a realistic representation.

The moon reflects the light of the sun as it rotates clockwise around the earth, and the Classico Luna depicts its angle of illumination as its moon rotates around the center of the timepiece – a portrayal of earth – making one rotation in 12 hours. In its speed to fulfill its moon phase circle in 29.5 days, the color of the moon phase disc will change, increasing and decreasing as the moon wanes or waxes.

A self-winding watch, the Classico Luna makes reading the moon’s phases sim-ple. The moon phase is set over a cor-rector at the 4 to 5 o’clock position. Clas-sic and slim dress watch, the mother-of-pearl dial features straight indexes as well as an hour hand representing the sun.

The Classico Lady Luna is expressive, honoring the moon’s powerfully feminine mystique through its glamorous aes-thetic, particularly when set with dia-monds on the aventurine disc of the dial and on the bezel.

In 1846 in Le Locle, at the age of 23, Ulysse Nardin founded the company that still bears his name. He paved the company’s future with his pocket and marine chronometers, setting the bench-mark in both civil and military realms.

Ulysse Nardin grew steadily in success and renown and was crowned by more than 4,300 watchmaking awards, includ-ing 18 gold medals.

For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the horizon. For-ever inventive, the manufacturer re-mains steadfast in its pioneering preci-sion of fusing bold innovation with unde-niable style. September 2014 heralds a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Luxury – Watches and Jewel-lery “ division.

For more information, please visit www.ulysse-nardin.com

ULYSSE NARDIN

Classico Lady Luna


http://www.ulysse-nardin.com

http://www.ulysse-nardin.com


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The dial of both Classico Lady Luna, is White mother of pearl with 7 diamonds.

The case, is in 18kt rose gold without diamonds ( left ) or set with 76 diamonds 0.88 ct (right )


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The dial of this version, is White mother of pearl and blue aventurine set with 72 diamonds 0.13 ct

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In her new role as Tiffany’s design direc-tor, Francesca Amfitheatrof took the measure of the city—its power, energy and daring—and captured it in the graphic Tiffany T.

Born in New York, Tiffany T is an icon for a new era. Amfitheatrof dedicates it to the world’s great cities and the global travelers who gravitate to art and cul-ture—and the edge, where creativity sparks change.

“I wanted to create a symbol for modern life and its relentless energy that flows through New York and drives art and culture around the world,” she says. “This is just the beginning of what I hope to accomplish.”

A trained jeweler and silversmith, Am-fitheatrof found her edge in sketches inspired by the newness all explorers seek and the sheer lightness of Tiffany design. Her work was also infused with the spirit of American design that thrives on a bold approach to established tradi-tions. These influences translated into strokes of genius, a flurry of forward mo-tion as rhythmic and effortless on paper as it is in precious metal.

Tiffany artisans are the master builders of Amfitheatrof’s brilliant play of angles and curves. Their skill with 18 karat gold—rose, yellow and white—and ster-

ling silver gives Tiffany T the strength of architecture with which it travels from chic to sublime. Wide cuffs and minimal bracelets perfectly contour the wrist. Multiple chains of varied lengths and elegant pendants drape the neckline. Rings stack seamlessly and earrings move with grace. Altogether, Tiffany T is a rich mix of options, layered in striking looks of pure ease and sensuality.

Stonesetters bring the light of the finest diamonds and glowing gems to Am-fitheatrof’s beautiful beginning as Tif-fany’s design director. They are like the capstones of a bejeweled city rising in the night sky, alive with possibility.

Tiffany & Co. operates jewelry stores and manufactures products through its subsidiary corporations. Its principal subsidiary is Tiffany and Company. The Company operates TIFFANY & CO. re-tail stores in the Americas, Asia-Pacific, Japan and Europe, as well as in the United Arab Emirates and Russia. It also engages in direct selling through Inter-net, catalog and business gift opera-tions.

For more information, please visit www.tiffany.com

TIFFANY & CO.

Meet Tiffany T


http://www.tiffany.com


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Tiffany T bracelets (from left): Medium Wire Bracelet in 18 karat rose gold, Square Brace-let in sterling silver, Wire Brace-let with Diamonds in 18 karat yellow gold.

Price available upon request

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Tiffany T square bracelet in 18 karat gold (from left): rose gold, white gold, yellow gold.


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Tiffany T smile pendant in 18 karat rose gold with diamonds.


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GUCCI

Gucci timepieces & jewelry presents a duo of seasonal interlocking watches

Bringing colour into the Interlocking watch collection, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry is pleased to introduce two new Interlocking watches in a bright, seasonal palette.

The timepieces come in charming tones of Pink Peony or Indigo Blue and can be teamed with other Gucci accessories, released in the same colours. The Interlocking design, clearly highlighted by these new shades of colour, is made up of two bold ÂGÊsÊ, a reference to the en-twined initials of GucciÊs founder, Guccio Gucci.

The motif is worked in contrasting brushed and polished stainless steel and the watchÊs large 37 mm size accentuates the sweeping curves of this recognisable emblem. Pink or blue sun-brushed dials are paired with matching coloured calf leather straps, adding a vibrant splash. The pure colour design on the dials sim-ply show the ÂSwiss MadeÊ seal at six oÊclock and the Gucci logo at 12 oÊclock.

Colourful and playful, this pair is an ideal way to accessorise the summer season and beyond.

About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry

Gucci Timepieces has been design-ing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early

1970s. Taking advantage of the world-wide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and crafts-manship, trendsetting and sophistica-tion – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are rec-ognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive net-work of directly operated Gucci bou-tiques and selected watch distribu-tors. Since January 2010, Gucci Time-pieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitaliz-ing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the syn-ergies between the watch and jew-elry industries.

Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accesso-ries which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands. Gucci Jewelry offers Italian made designs that can be worn eve-ryday and treasured forever.

For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.gucciwatches.com.

http://www.gucciwatches.com



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ENTICE

A Bouquet of Floral Bloom

Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the cen-tury oldKGK group has unveiled an exotic-collection of jewellery inspired by exquisite flowers. Each bauble of the collection tran-spires a timeless saga of pristine beauty and delicacy.

Since a long time, flowers have been associ-ated with feminity, grace and charm. The same attributes are exhibited in Entice’s flo-ral collection, where each piece is intri-cately crafted with stupendous precision and skills to make it a perfect adornment for a beautiful ‘you’.

In this collection, there is something for eve-ryone who loves jewellery and has a pen-chant for alluring fresh flowers. The collec-tion is lightweight and strikingly gorgeous. It comprises of beautiful necklace, ring, ear-rings, ear stud and bracelets. Ear studs and rings withstunning rubies set in daz-zling diamonds are certain to make you fall in love with them in a single look itself. Bracelets and earrings with diamonds in various shapes, set in white, rose and yel-low gold are indeed irresistible for an avid jewellery lover. Diamond necklace and ear-rings in unique and intricate designs are a perfect bet for a glamorous evening out and are bound to get you loads of compli-ments.

The variety of styles and designs make this assortment a ‘must-have’ for a versatile jew-ellery collection.

Add some bloom to your jewellery collec-tion with this exclusive floral range from En-tice where each bauble is a treasure to own and a pride for the wearer.

About Entice Jewellery

Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet con-temporary style; boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with bou-tiques in Hong Kong and with an impres-sion that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Entice today has 6 standa-lone boutiques in Hong Kong and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Bengaluru).

Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aesthetic look, lending a u n i q u e a r t i s t i c b l e n d t o t h e i r pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled posi-tion of credible leadership by providing un-matched customer delight and exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious gems and jewellery.

About Parent Group KGK

The KGK group, established in 1905 by Kothari family of Jaipur, is a global corpora-tion with fully integrated operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, with presence across 15 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious stones, KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for decades. Being sightholder with industry barons like De Beers, Rio Tinto &Alrosa, KGK ensures nothing but the finest dia-monds and at the most reasonable prices. The strength of KGK is vast, resulting in un-matchable benefits to the end consumer.


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GUCCI

Gucci timepieces & jewely introducesHorsebit watches in pink gold PVD

Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry pre-sents two new additions to the Horse-bit watch collection in pink gold PVD.

Gucci’s horsebit motif, one of the House’s signature icons, has been translated into a stylish watch de-sign, as seen in the existing Horsebit timepiece line. The two new variants are available in a delicate 28mm size and are treated with a glossy pink gold PVD finish. The variant with a black dial and Roman numerals of-fers a classic look, whilst the second model, with a mother of pearl dial set with diamonds at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, provide for a more precious touch. The horsebit design takes centre stage and the curves of this elegant motif gently embrace the bangle, sweeping around the understated dial. Simple and elegant, the dials show the ‘Swiss Made’ seal at six o’clock and the Gucci logo at 12 or 3 o’clock.

These new timepieces are worked in the chic bangle style adding further refinement to these extensions, whilst remaining wearable for every day.

About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry

Gucci Timepieces has been design-ing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early

1970s. Taking advantage of the world-wide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and crafts-manship, trendsetting and sophistica-tion – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are rec-ognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive net-work of directly operated Gucci bou-tiques and selected watch distribu-tors. Since January 2010, Gucci Time-pieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitaliz-ing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the syn-ergies between the watch and jew-elry industries.

Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accesso-ries which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands. Gucci Jewelry offers Italian made designs that can be worn eve-ryday and treasured forever.

For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.gucciwatches.com.




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Ancient Greek Sandals & I l ias Lalaounis

Limited-edition jewelled sandalsThe absolute must-have for this summer

For Spring / Summer 2015 Ancient Greek Sandals collaborate with the iconic jewelry brand Ilias Lalaounis to develop a collection of 7 precious sandals. Ilias Lalalounis (1920-2013), jeweler, artist, and academician, has become world renowned for creating luxurious gold jewelry steeped in his-tory. His vision breathes new life into Greek museum artifacts and trans-forms them into jewelry by reviving age old neglected/forgotten tech-niques while also introducing the use of modern technology.

Known for his collections inspired by Greek history, the Lalaounis jewelry style became a reference of the so-called Greek chic and women such as Jackie Onassis, Elisabeth Taylor and recently Charlize Theron wore his jewels.

Christina Martini, creative director of Ancient Greek Sandals worked closely with Maria Lalaounis, one of Ilias Lalaounis daughters and crea-tive director of the brand, in order to design sandals using Lalounis iconic jewels and unique techniques.

lias Lalaounis has always been a great inspiration for me, not only in my designs but also in founding my own brand. Ancient Greek Sandals, which uses centuries old techniques in order to make sandals for modern women, has the same concept as Ilias Lalounis had in the 1950’s. It was a dream going through the ar-chives of this heritage brand, visiting its headquarters and witnessing the art of craftsmanship. With Maria we had the same vision from the start and the whole procedure was very creative and fun’

For the 7 sandals have been used gold plated jewels from Lalaounis ‘Minoan & Mycenaean’ and ‘Paleo-lithic & Neolithic’ collections and they are available in natural, chocolate brown, grey, black and white vachetta leather.

Born and raised in Greece, co-founder and designer, Christina Mar-tini is a BA (Hons) graduate in Foot-wear Design and Product Develop-ment from the prestigious Cordwain-ers College (2000). Christina previ-ously worked as a shoe designer for Balenciaga (2008-2010), Louis Vuit-ton and Iris srl. Her business partner and co-founder Nikolas Minoglou, was born in London and raised in Greece. An MBA graduate from Bab-son College (USA), in 2006 returned to Athens and took over the family’s well established footwear business, before joining forces with Christina.

Ancient Greek Sandals are available at some of the best retailers world-wide including Harvey Nichols, MATCHESFASHION.COM and Jo-seph in London, Le Bon Marche, Co-lette and Merci in Paris, Excelsior and Antonia in Milan, Theresa in Mu-nich, Apropos in Dusseldorf, Co-logne and Hamburg, Bergdorf Good-man and Kirna Zabete in New York, Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Forty Five Ten, A’Maree’s and Just One Eye in the USA, Boutique One in Dubai, Club 21 in Singapore, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, Net-a-Porter, Luisa via Roma, Moda Operandi and My Theresa online.

www.ancient-greek-sandals.com

http://www.ancient-greek-sandals.com

http://www.ancient-greek-sandals.com


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Christina Martini, creative director of Ancient Greek Sandals worked closely with Maria Lalaounis, one of Ilias Lalaounis daughters and creative director of the brand, in order to design sandals using Lalounis iconic jewels and unique techniques.

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Moratorium is a creator of precious metal jewelry de-signed and handcrafted in Brooklyn, New York. Drawing inspiration from lines, forms and structures — both man-made and natural —Moratorium pre-sents a unique perspective on simplified and time-less style. Dynamic and meticulously crafted silhou-ettes are the heart of the collection and create im-mediate distinction from other contemporary collec-tions.

MORATORIUM

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Founded in 2009 by designer Jeanette Lai Thomas, Moratorium has an ever-growing fol-lowing of non- conformists around the world. Moratorium is a creator of precious metal jewelry designed and handcrafted in Brooklyn, New York.

Drawing inspiration from lines, forms and structures — both man-made and natural —Moratorium presents a unique perspective on simplified and timeless style. Dynamic and meticulously crafted silhouettes are the heart of the collection and create immediate dis-tinction from other contemporary collections.

Transcending season, trend or gender, each piece is designed and hand-finished by Lai Thomas in her workshop. Working within a design ethos founded on creativity and authen-ticity and only accepting the highest quality possible, Moratorium designs are perpetually refined throughout the creative process. In a provocative expression of individuality, Mora-torium works exclusively with precious metals and diamonds—a rare quality in contempo-rary jewelry today.

At the center of the inaugural series is the androgynous Moratorium Cut Away Pyramid. Universally recognized as one of the strongest structures known to man, the pyramid is an object of strength, beauty and eternal fascination. Currently featuring in a single and triple Cut Away necklace, three styles of ring, two styles of earring, a pair of cufflinks and a bracelet; the Cut Away Pyramid is a simple yet unique expression of refinement and modern craftsmanship.

In 2015, Moratorium furthers its experimentation with geometric shapes and decon-structed objects with three new concepts that disrupt and manipulate traditional forms and structures.

The Moratorium Cocoon series draws inspiration from nature and the birth of the de-signer’s first child. Its multi-faceted structure is both powerful and emotional.

The Moratorium Sabre series sees Lai Thomas explore new territory with a sweeping curved structure; while retaining the sharp, bold edges and cut away forms that are the trademark of her designs.

The Cocoon collection and the Sabre Collection feature an array of necklaces, rings and earrings, chokers and cuffs crafted in New York from precious metals.

Lai Thomas’ perpetual experimentation with the concept of luxury and timeless, coveted objects see the introduction of the exquisite Moratorium Fine Jewelry collection. Seduc-tive creations that arrest the eye and the mind, Lai Thomas presents her three-dimensional geometric creations in white gold and embellished with diamond pavé.

At the Jewellery Historian, we are happy to showcase the Moratorium Fine Jewelry Collec-tion, in white gold and set with black diamonds or grey diamonds.

Transcending season, trend or gender, each piece is designed and hand-finished by Lai Thomas in her workshop. Working within a design ethos founded on creativity and authenticity and only accepting the highest quality possible, Moratorium designs are perpetually refined throughout the creative process.


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PALMIERO


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There are many beautiful sights created by the force of Nature: this year PALMIERO has cap-tured the vivid colours and sinuous charm of the underwater world, the magic of water and life that moves inside it. Jewels that become unique mas-terpieces, works of art, along with more and more precious jewellery watches and refined accesso-ries. New shapes, dimensions and colours are ready to fascinate "jewellery connoisseurs".

At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to showcase the latest Palmiero creations, creations of top quality and creativity, in this special anniver-sary issue.

PALMIERO

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Palmiero Jewellery Design represents one of the most refined brand in the international jewellery panorama, witnessing top quality, creativity and authentically Made in Italy.

Palmiero' s creations celebrate Nature, Art and Culture, they represent and recount them. Carlo Palmiero from over 35 years creates Limited Edition jewellery and watches that con-vey strong emotions to those who give them and to those who wear them, recognizable at first sight, created without fear of daring.

This year at Basel World, Palmiero’s “Underwater World” was definitely one of the most seen and beloved collections. There are many beautiful sights created by the force of Na-ture: this year PALMIERO has captured the vivid colours and sinuous charm of the underwater world, the magic of water and life that moves inside it. Jewels that become unique mas-terpieces, works of art, along with more and more precious jewellery watches and refined accessories. New shapes, di-mensions and colours are ready to fascinate "jewellery con-noisseurs".

The origin of a true love story

Carlo Palmiero grew up in the 60’s in Valenza, a small town of Piedmont, a region in the nothern part of Italy. The city has always been famous for its goldsmith tradition. He was inevi-tably influenced by this art and had the opportunity to enter artisanal ateliers and work together with the greatest experts of the field.

This is definitely the origin of a true love story, the one with the art of jewellery, which has lasted unchanged until today.

The first jewels were realized in the small atelier opened in the 70’s, where objects characterized by small dimensions but already stong personality were created.

Carlo Palmiero by bucking the trend and modifying the stan-dards of classical jewellery, which in those years mostly ref-fered to solitaire, contrarié or “Ballerina” jewellery, important centers surrounded by diamonds, moved the attention from the center to the entire object, dilated the shapes and ex-panded the attention to the entire jewel surface. His rings, become 360° sculptures, including the shank, which is now protagonist and not only simple stand.

In 1979, when Carlo Palmiero founded the company that bears his name.

Carlo Palmiero’s creations are an alchemy of thoughts, sug-gestions, reflections and memories. The magic of nature

meets emotions, art, cultures and places in an endless crea-tive conversation.

The “Maître”, Carlo Palmiero, shapes and materializes this abstract inspiration. A sketch, a draft, an idea gradually be-come real, waiting for being given life by the goldsmith’s abil-ity.

Gold and precious stones become the canvas and colors he uses to create his own works of art.

Color is definitely the protagonist of Palmiero’s jewellery. The rarest colored precious diamonds are combined with the best natural sapphires, creating unusual and fascinating combina-tions and shades. Intense topazes, brilliant rubellites and gor-geous rubies, become pure color that Palmiero uses to give life to his courageous ideas.

In collaboration with this team of gemologists, Carlo Palmiero wisely combines chromatic tonalities in order to create unique and fascinating pavé shades, which have almost be-came synonymous of Palmiero Jewellery Design’s creations and let our imagination to run free.

Palmiero jewellery is a synonym of exclusivity and unique jew-ellery. The Palmiero creations are the result of a unique savoir-faire and definitely amazing.

Nowadays, Carlo Palmiero, together with his team, conceives his fantastic and fascinating creations in the modern laboratory-atelier inaugurated in Valenza in 2007.

The high technology of the laboratory makes it one of the fore-front companies in the jewel manufacture. At the same time, it remains a large artisanal laboratory, where manual skill is ex-alted and expressed through the ability of highly qualified goldsmiths and stone-setters. Thanks to them the brand ap-pears in the most prestigious and select boutiques of the world.

Palmiero’s creations are haute couture jewels that communi-cate through the language of sculpture and the vocabulary commonly used by artists, who shape the material to give it a soul. The diamond pavé and the natural stones become the protagonists, a real raison d’être. They are conceived in in-tense and exuberant tonalities and “Arlecchino” or shaded effects, creating splendid optical illusions.

Neither the gold escapes the virtuosities of the creator, who drapes it, curves it, undulates it, “domesticates” it to his inspi-ration by crossing the evanescent borders between craft and art.



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PALMIERO Jewellery Design shows top quality and creativity, authentically haute de gamme and authentically Made in It-aly.

“UNDERWATER WORLD”

In these chaotic times, we allow ourselves only for a little the luxury of observing the magnificence of Nature.We are tormented by negative news and events, so negative that they preclude us the joy of being spectators of the beauty that has been in the world all along and still continues to appear.

We should cut ourselves a moment from everyday life, which too many times is painful, in order to rediscover the beauty around us and get used to search for such beauty even for a few instants in our day. This will allow us to fill a tank of pure energy where drawing the strength to face the most difficult times of our existence.

There are many beautiful sights originated by the force of Na-ture.

PALMIERO, always attentive to the beauty of nature, pays homage to it through jewels. Today, he presents the theme of the Underwater World, which combines the magic of water and life that moves inside it.

He has captured the vivid colours and sinuous charm of the animals that inhabit this Underwater World. Seas, oceans and rivers teem with fantastic life, a universe of shapes and unex-pected colours. PALMIERO represents precious tropical fishes with shapes and curves distorted by the movement of water, in the act of greeting you. And then Sea Stars, Nudi-branchs, Polyps...

Waves are shaped by the wind that lifts the water and creates massive, shimmering and sparkling arches. A real magic for the eyes.



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PESCI they flutter in the water sparkling...

Lone or in herds, they inhabit the waters of our planet.Mysterious and increasingly rare, they swim by moving their majestic tails. Illuminated by the sun or with their own light, they turn and hypnotise us.

Bright colours attract us to their Underwater World, which has captured our imagination.



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OCTO total embrace...

Champion in camouflage, intelligent and intuitive. Its tireless tentacles move sinuously. How many arms do we need to demonstrate Love: Might be 8?



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STELLA fallen from sky...

In popular imagination, we believe it fell from the sky.It is a charming protagonist of the deep sea. Apparently fragile, it hides the wonderful ability to regenerate.



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NUDUS soft and sinuous...

Gaudy liveries and irregular shapes have caught our attention. Small jewels from the sea that release strong emotions: the nudibranchs.

Unique specimens, they dance almost unknown between rocks and corals and are popular as “harlequins of the sea”. Apparently naked, they know how to gain respect.



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REEFmagical barriers...

Small towns originated by Nature are home for sea animals and plants almost magical. Charmed, we take a break to observe the reef, which is full of enviable details and richness. Complicated architectures that change over time and generate incomparable emotions.



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ONDE sensual rhythm...

They break foamy and silent at times. Some other times they leave the sign and then disappear in the waters. “Words of sea”, loud and sweet at the same time, comparable to our thoughts and memories that emerge rhythmically in our lives.



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“THE LAND AND OUR IMAGINATION”


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PAVONI Emperor in word and appearance...

It is symbol of royalty, nobility and beauty. One of the most beautiful performance of Nature, once again portrayed by Carlo Palmiero in this unique and equally elegant collection, a worthy tribute to a true “emperor” of the animal kingdom.



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MATHON


A favored designer of great Parisian jewelers since the 1930’s, the Mathon family made its place in the history of jew-elry. Attached to artistic values, Mathon Paris gives an atypi-cal and colorful collection. The skilled hands of his craftsmen give each piece the spark of life, as well as a unique twinkle. Loyal to the artisanal traditions of French jewelry, Mathon is committed to ethical practices, as signified by the “Joaillerie de France” hallmark, which also certifies the French manufac-turing.

Mathon Paris workshop was founded in 1931 by Camille Bour-nadet next to the Palais Royal in Paris. But Roger Mathon, an eclectic artist and painter, who took over after his uncle, who actually contributed to the creative development of the house, increasing the high jewelry creations for “la Place Vendôme”.

His love for jewelry quickly passed to Roger’s children, Cath-erine, Frédéric and Pascal, who gave Mathon an international dimension to the house in the 1980s. Today, Aude has en-tered the picture, representing the fourth generation.

Nature is the principal inspiration for Mathon’s fabulous crea-tions which are all labeled, "Joaillerie de France," a seal that guarantees the products are French-made.

Jewels are crafted in a workshop that comes alive to the bus-tling sounds of rattling tweezers, the filing of metal, and the crackle of gold melting in the crucible. The creations that come out of this workshop are triumphs of gold and colored stones set exclusively by hand.

MATHON PARIS jewellery pieces embody a genuine passion for beauty and excellence. Jewels are created to tell the sto-ries of dreams through an unmistakable style.

The commitment to the preservation of the French “savoir-faire” is a great pride for a family that is devoted to defining a personal aesthetic unaffected by the flow of time.

In this issue, we meet Frédéric Mathon, CEO of the company and talk with him about the history and tradition of Mathon, about the jewellery industry and many more. We also meet the creative director, Frédéric Mané, the head designer of Mathon.

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MATHON PARIS



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Frédéric MATHON is one of the rare French CEO who is lead-ing company and workshop where jewels have always been producing in a pure French traditional way.

The CEO – Jeweller likes to work in a family atmosphere in his atelier located in the heart of Paris. This CEO does not take himself seriously, he is absolutely capable to take jewel-lery tools when circumstances require it.

This Human CEO, who can replace any employee in the com-pany was born in jewellery industry.

He was born on April 18th 1955 in Paris and he grew up in that Parisian district of Palais Royal, district of small ateliers and jewellery shops. Since his early childhood he was pre-destined to follow his father’s and his uncle’s way who both of them were painters and jewellery designers and established the workshop in the early Thirties.

After he has graduated from High School of Commerce in 1976, Frederic MATHON joined family workshop bringing young and dynamic breath to the company. Nevertheless, this visionary CEO looks further.

He wants to go further and to break the limits of a simple jew-eller and he puts all his passion and his time at the service of this noble trade – French traditional jewellery manufacturing.

His generosity and his devotion to jewellery trade brought him in 1992 Presidency of the French Association “Joailliers – Fabricants” which is still honoured President.

He represents the Association of French Jewellers to different political organisations and is their privileged spokesperson at the French government.

But, his passion for pure craftsmanship bring him to the pres-tigious Parisian School “Ecole de Bijouterie – Joaillerie de Paris” where he supports young and gifted future jewellers.

In 1994 he became President of that school and from that period every year the most gifted students have a possibility to start their training period in MATHON PARIS’ workshop and

learn from renowned craftsmen and masters of French fine jewellery.

Frédéric MATHON’s mind is open and without borders.

In 1997 he is appointed CEO of ROGER MATHON SA and is asked to become President of the French Export Commission (CPDHBJO) and represents the Association of French Jewel-lers abroad.

He organises in collaboration with this Association many Inter-national Exhibitions and Promotions and promotes and sup-ports the French jewellery manufacturing and its know-how.

Today the most important thing that matter for this ambitious CEO is promoting and working for the “French High Jewellery Label” which he launched in 2006.

The real guarantee of “Made by Hande & Made in France” this new Label has only one goal: To promote the excellence of the French fine jewellery and to make known this ancestral trade.

This dynamic CEO is more than company’s President. He is soul and body of the company. He works closely with Design Department, participates in development of new collections and supervises all levels of production process from the draw-ings to the final jewel on customer’s finger.

Even if his passion for jewellery is immense his curiosity and the interest in other people makes him much more rich.

He is generous husband and kind and attentive father of his 2 children: a 24 year old daughter and 19 year old son.

Besides all his activities this excellent golf player has enough time to challange French or foreign golf competitors at many international competitions.

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FRÉDÉRIC MATHON


When he took over the atelier at the beginning of the seventies, he proposed very exciting creations to Mr Boucheron, Mr Arpels, Mr Maubousin or Mr Fred Samuel.

Frédéric Mathon, tell us more about MATHON and it’s history

Our Atelier was founded in 1931 by Camille Bournadet - a relative of my father. My father was a genius in creation, found of art and painting. When he took over the atelier at the beginning of the seventies, he proposed very exciting creations to Mr Boucheron, Mr Ar-pels, Mr Maubousin or Mr Fred Samuel… The success came rapidly. During the 80s, I developed the Mathon collection whose roots are still there.

Today the process of creation with the major global brand has changed but we still sup-ply some of them with very strong links.

Mathon is a family business. Do you believe that this contributed to it success ?

There two positive arguments. Firstly: shareholders being of the family, we know to be pa-tient when there are bad times to pass. Secondly: with a family management , everyone gets much more involved in the company's success.

But let’s return to the roots. How did you decided to get in the jewelry industry?

When I completed my studies in an international business school my father asked me to come into the company. My conditions was that I could go abroad to develop business (my father was very “Place Vendôme” minded), he accepted, afterwards I learnt step by step all components of this great job: technical aspects, gemology and participating with my father and sister Catherine to creation. In the meantime, I visited new customers all over the world. It was 30 years ago.

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Frédéric Mathon

The creation can move easily, but the Parisian production exists only thanks to his workers as we train for years. The whole world wants to make in Paris because they want the “French Touch”

Which is the key philosophy of MATHON ?

We have never sought to deceive our customers by producing elsewhere to offer a better price to the market. If we had done that, we would have no longer a workshop. Clearness is very important for us.

Which are the main activities of MATHON ?

Our activity is divided between subcontracting for major international brands and offering our collection to distributors mainly in Japan, China and in the United States.

What differentiates MATHON from others ?

We are one of the very few Parisian workshop having our own design studio in-house.


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For years you have been president of “Joailliers-Fabricants” and of the “ Ecole de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris” and the “CPDHBJO”.Paris, was for years the capital of joaillerie but the latest years we see billionaires and many brands to “move” to London. Do you believe that we have a movement like it happened in the past with fashion or arts ?

If there are such movements, it's for financial reasons. The creation can move easily, but the Parisian production exists only thanks to his workers as we train for years. The whole world wants to make in Paris because they want the “French Touch”.

What in your opinion is the difference between Parisian brands and brands located in other cities ?

The “French Touch” and taste.

Tell us about the “French High Jewellery Label”.

Label Joaillerie de France meets the need for transparency requested by the French manufacturers. The hallmark stamped to the jewelry guarantees that they are mounted set and polished in France. Today is the only guarantee of origin of manufacture.

In many countries, jewellery is hand-made, but they do not have the prestige of Paris. What do you believe makes French jewellery so important ?

The most beautiful jewels are manufactured in Paris, because the Parisians workshops are able, thanks to their know-how to access to the creativity and extreme quality require-ments of designers or brands.

Do you believe that the current financial crisis affects quality ?

There are two worlds that have nothing to see with each other. The premium jewelery that meets marketing and mass production requirements, the price is essential, quality and origin of manufacture are not so important. On the contrary, the luxury jewellery displays a high price. High manufacture is involved , the most skilled workforce and the highest quality stones are required, French manufacturers are the best in this field.

I think that crisis has opened a gap between this to worlds, Europe will no longer act on access jewellery production.

Do you believe that with the current financial situation there is a place for young de-signers and small independent brands ?

This profession will always need genius creators, if only to serve the major brands. I think it is much more complicated today than 30 years to launch its own brand. However I am fairly optimistic: in the near future some of the most exclusive clientele re-quire unique pieces and want to understand how and by whom their jewelry is made.

We have seen some historical brands to be sold and loose their prestige or even dis-appear. Do you believe that this will continue or it will stop ?

The luxury world has no room for error, brands have disappeared because they were poorly managed and thought they could make money only with their famous name.

Label Joaillerie de France meets the need for transparency requested by the French manufacturers. The hallmark stamped to the jewelry guarantees that they are mounted set and polished in France. Today is the only guarantee of origin of manufacture.



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Thirty years ago “les Maisons de la Place Vendôme” were know by the wealthy elite and lived very well, they become brands that are making significant advertising effort to be known by everybody.

In France, we are lucky to have the big luxury groups that invest heavily in savoir faire, therefore in the future.

Most prestigious brands belong nowadays to huge groups. Do you believe that we can still keep this historical brands without being in a group ?

Really, the brand concept distorts our perception. Thirty years ago “les Maisons de la Place Vendôme” were know by the wealthy elite and lived very well, they become brands that are making significant advertising effort to be known by everybody, and open stores in airports as in the four corners of the planet, to sell high mark up products.

I think that historical or new jewellers, do not call them “brands”, will work for these elites seeking jewelry specially created for them.Here also appears a dichotomy.

You are a successful businessman who keeps a very low profile. Why you chose to keep this low profile ?

Simply because it is my nature. I cannot stand arrogance.

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Beside your activities you are also an excellent golf player. How do you balance be-tween the demands of your job and a second-generation interest in a life of ad-vanced pleasure ?

Golf requires high control both physically and mentally, during a competition you must manage the stress and find energy very deeply in yourself. It is a good lesson for man-agement but also for life.

If you had to pick one bit of advice for the young entrepreneurs of today, what would that be and why?

Always look for excellence in everything and be different: don’t follow others. Quality is the most important matter in luxury. Never deliver a jewel which you are not proud of.

Where do you see MATHON in 20 years

Mathon will be more than 100 years old, managed by my daughter Aude, who belongs to the 4th generation of Mathon Jewelers.

Still a reference in matters of fine jewelry, Our workshops displayed on 4 floors of our his-torical building located closed to the “Palais Royal” in Paris,

one floor dedicated to young craftsmen training: and extreme quality required young craftsmen.


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Frédéric Mané was born in south France, in Perpignan, in 1982. He spent his childhood near Collioure, the famous city of painters.

He first started his artistic career in 2000, when he studied product design in Paris. He found his first experiences in designing accessories and precious objects.

In 2005, he got a master degree in luxury product design.,this time at the ESDI Creapole de-sign school in Paris.

His love for jewellery design, pushed him to take classes on the art of jewellery design at the world famous school BJO. Ecole du Louvre.

Working his different design studios in Paris, from Nina Ricci, to Arthus Bertrand jewellery and Swarovski, he had the unique opportunity to work on different collections, including perfume’s bottles and jewellery. After this creative trip, he joined a design agency, creating precious items for Montblanc. He also collaborated to elaborate different luxury life-style projects for Lancel, and accessories for italian designer Roberto Cavalli.

Since 2009, he is the head designer for Mathon’s collection and designs as well all special orders, produced by Mathon.

His sources of inspiration are arts and famous muses of history. Antique legends meet nature in motion and dragonfly wings the dewdrop of leaves.

We met Frédéric Mané in Paris, for this exclusive interview, that we are honored to publish in this special anniversary issue.

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I learnt the real process of jewelry design in the Mathon workshop in Paris, with the Mathon family, I discovered the true rules of art of French jewelry, inherited in 1931 by the Mathon family, and how these true rules are always being renewed.

Frédéric Mané, tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got here.

Six years ago, i was taking a jewelry drawing lesson when my collaboration with this fam-ily company started. Before I used to work as a designer for different design studios in Paris, I had the opportunity to work on more types of projects including perfume bottles and luxury goods for French and Japanese luxury groups.

Since 2009 I have been the main designer for Mathon Paris and in charge of designing their collection, including the specials orders, I’m used to working with the high jewelry workshop in the same building all the time.

How did you decided to be a jewellery designer ?

I started designing jewelry in my own design studio, I made big paintings with mesmeriz-ing characters like Wise men or mystics queens with huge and extravagant jewels on their royal suits. Afterwards I learnt the real process of jewelry design in the Mathon work-shop in Paris, with the Mathon family, I discovered the true rules of art of French jewelry, inherited in 1931 by the Mathon family, and how these true rules are always being re-newed.

What was the motivation / inspiration for your very first collection?

My first project, 6 years ago, for Mathon Paris was inspired by the sea’s depth and its treasure… this theme has really developed in the Mathon Paris collection. One of the most original pieces in this collection is the Nausicaa ring, the center stone is even cut like a shell ! The collection is inspired by Homer’s Odyssey, each piece symbolizes a dif-


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One of the most original pieces in this collection is the Nausicaa ring, the center stone is even cut like a shell ! The collection is inspired by Homer’s Odyssey.

ferent goddess met by Ulysses in his mesmerizing travels ! Also I’m catalan and that’s why those Mediterranean legends have always been in my imagination, since my child-hood…

Where do you get your inspiration?

My sources of inspiration are the arts and the famous muses in history, the ancien leg-ends, but what influences me the most in my his creations is observing nature in motion, such as the dewdrop on leaves, the beating of a dragonfly’s wings, the sudden blooming of a flower, or the flight of a bird; the final drawing translates these poetic moments into pure lines and synthesizes these movements of life into a fresh color panel.

Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration.

I like discovering old and new creations in the classic museums and the contemporary arts galleries.


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The commitment to the preservation of the French “savoir-faire” is a great pride for this family who is devoted to defining a personal aesthetic unaffected by the flow of time.

Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with their work?

I’m really inspired by different artists like Gaudi and Dali, sometimes Jeef koons or archi-tects such as Zahaa Hadid and Santiago Calatrava.

What according to you contributed to your success? Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the industry?

All our jewels are designed and made in our Parisian workshop. Manufactured according to the renowned traditions of French jewellery, our jewels are subjected to rigorous con-trols during the production process and extreme care is taken though out their comple-tion.

Nature in motion is the principal inspiration for Mathon’s fabulous creations which are all labeled, "Joaillerie de France," a seal that guarantees the products are French-made.

Jewels are crafted in a workshop that comes alive with the bustling sounds of rattling tweezers, the filing of metal, and the crackle of gold melting in the crucible. The creations that come out of this workshop are triumphs of gold and colored stones set exclusively by hand.

MATHON PARIS jewelry pieces embody a genuine passion for beauty and excellence. Jewels are created to tell the stories of dreams through an unmistakable style.The commit-ment to the preservation of the French “savoir-faire” is a great pride for this family who is devoted to defining a personal aesthetic unaffected by the flow of time. The company is also RJC certified. ( Responsible jewellery council )


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Which is your favorite author ( and / or book ) ?

Definitely Beaudelaire

Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor?

I ‘m truly inspired by gold, precious stones, enamels, ceramic, crystal.

Which material you believe that you will never stop using in your collections?

Titanium, this material offers us an original color panel !

What do you like most about being a jewelry designer?

High jewelry is a collective work, the final piece is the perfect combination of different skills and talents !

The most valuable lesson you have learned until today?

Trust in your fate and learn from your previous mistakes

How do you define luxury?

In jewelry : Taking the time to do things well, having the freedom of expression and inspi-ration, being able to choose beautiful stones that are rare.

What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special?

One of my favorite pieces is the Nénuphar ring : This new range is inspired by the water lily, characterized by its broad, flat, rounded leaves and its delicate flowers that can be white, yellow, purplish or reddish. As a ring, the leaves are in white gold and the flower opens into pink tourmaline petals. ( photo in next page )

Your heroes in real life?

My Ancestors !

Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design?

Traditionally, the seasonal trends in fashion work against the sustainability of jewelry. Of course there are trends in jewelry but personally I prefer the personal expression of a jew-elry artist who is not swayed too heavily by other trends; but, instead, who can tell the story of their client.

Which fashion designers inspire you with their work?

Christian Lacroix, Stephan Rolland with his very elegant dresses, or even Gareth Pugh, a transgressive fashion designer!

What kind of person wears your jewelry?

Romantics, dreamers with discreet tastes, sensitive types.

High jewelry is a collective work, the final piece is the perfect combination of different skills and talents !



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Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be? Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ?

History has shown us how mens fashion has changed from kings and maharadjas to the actual dandies who wore amazing pieces. Personally , I’m not used to wearing jewelry and I prefer to design new models for women who inspire me.

Which piece of jewellery every person should wear ?

Jewels that tell the owner's stories!

What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations?

Jewels pieces from Mathon, made in the French rules of art, are really appreciated by the connoisseurs and i don’t think they are common in the street… ( He smiles )

Could you please tell us about your latest collection?

the Galapagos ring, a strong style with unusual stones, the stone is even cut like a tor-toise carapace ! The imposing carapace typical of a Galapagos tortoise is set with sugar loaf stones, which are the main argument of this new line. Transparency and the colour of the stones, going from sea-green to mint tints, evokes the shores of the mythical archipel-ago. Tourmalines and peridots are specially cut on the jewels by the lapidaries of Idar-Oberstain, in order to create the tabular shapes of the animal’s scales. The eyes are made from bright green emeralds which are in harmony with the carapace of the animal. This special cut gives beautiful volume to the animal design. A line of scallop-setted dia-monds wraps around the fine stones to underline their glare.


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Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring?

In the Thailand Sea, there is Kohtao island a wild landscape surrounded by a green la-goon where fishermen live. A lost but preserved paradise

Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite for winter ?

The county of Roussillon is my hometown, a typical and traditional city on the border of the Mediterranean sea. Antique castles in front of the sea, wild coast, sweet sun, old leg-ends and a strong culture characterize this county.

Your favorite capital ?

Paris, but Barcelona as a city, has a special place in my heart.

Your favorite addresses?

The best pastries in Paris come from Pierre Hermé, and one of the best star restaurants in Paris is Yamtcha ! And Jeffrey’s cocktail bar for their delicious cocktails!

What we should expect from you in the future?

New amazing projects and more global partners.

Could you tell us about your upcoming projects?

I’m working on a new concept in jewelry that is really fascinating. It includes a cameo stone with an animated screen inside.

Your favorite motto?

“Appreciate the moment like it is a unique grace given by fate” written by my grand father the catalan poet , Henri Segonne.

Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers?

It is a true challenge to convert your passion into a job, but you have to trust in your crea-tive intuition and work a lot, it’s important to know the history of jewelry, including the tradi-tional and new techniques, and to understand that jewelry is really a collective work!

At the Jewellery Historian, we are grateful to Mr. Frédéric Mathon and Mr.Frédéric Mané, for meet-ing us and sharing with all our readers their universe. We are grateful and thankful to the Maison Mathon for all photos that illustrate the interviews, for the privileged access to unique archives, his-torical and important drawings, for allowing us to visit their ateliers and see how their amazing jew-ellery pieces are born and created, that we will showcase soon in a future issue.

“Appreciate the moment like it is a unique grace given by fate” written by my grand father the catalan poet , Henri Segonne.



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A team of skilled Greek craftsmen works closely with the very best gem-ologists to bring to life the designs of Yannis Sergakis.

Inspiration is drawn from literally everywhere: architecture, fabrics, peo-ple, senses, silhouettes, feelings. Each transformed into wearable state-ment pieces with a timeless quality and beauty.

Yannis Sergakis works exclusively with gold - the everlasting guarantee of value - and diamonds - the most precious of stones. Pure, simple and bright. Powerful and dazzling. Their precious qualities recognized since time immemorial.

YANNISSERGAKIS

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Yannis Sergakis is the descendant of a well-established family of Greek diamond traders. He was drawn into the alluring world of precious stones while still a child, when he spent hours observing his uncles in their showroom.

Soon, Yannis began collecting and trading jewels. Much later, he realized that his true passion was not collecting but creating jewellery. Not a conventional route, but one that indicates his deep love and appreciation for the fine art of jewellery.

After studying gemology and design at the Gemological Institute of America, Yannis Ser-gakis worked as a trader alongside his family until 2004, when he set up his own busi-ness.

More interested in creating exquisite jewels than signing them, he started collaborating with renowned jewellery houses in Greece and abroad.

Over thirty collections later, with the maturity of a designer who has spent a decade hon-ing his craft and the assertiveness of someone whose sought after pieces sell at the world’s most exclusive boutiques, Yannis Sergakis has taken the most important step yet – creating his own signature line.

A team of skilled Greek craftsmen works closely with the very best gemologists to bring to life the designs of Yannis Sergakis.

Inspiration is drawn from literally everywhere: architecture, fabrics, people, senses, silhou-ettes, feel ings. Each transformed into wearable statement pieces witha timeless quality and beauty.

Yannis Sergakis works exclusively with gold - the everlasting guarantee of value - and dia-monds - the most precious of stones. Pure, simple and bright. Powerful and dazzling. Their precious qualities recognized since time immemorial.

A legacy that inspires Yannis Sergakis and his team to keep reinterpreting these two eter-nal symbols in new ways that intrigue and attract.

COMMITMENT is the debut collection by Greek jeweller, Yannis Sergakis. How many ways to describe commitment; one’s attachment to the other, the desire to be tied to-gether. This is the starting point of the COMMITMENT collection.

The way past generations of Greek jewellery makers used to tie precious stones together; the way those who love intensely are intertwined.

A meaningful bond - sweet but not cloying, sharp yet not painful. An elegant aggression.

Yannis Sergakis works exclusively with gold - the everlasting guarantee of value - and diamonds - the most precious of stones. Pure, simple and bright. Powerful and dazzling. Their precious qualities recognized since time immemorial.


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Two lines of fine jewellery made exclusively from gold and diamonds. CHAR-NIÈRES & CROCHETS. Each line a different level of commitment, a different tying knot. Grace, intimacy, lust.

Timeless pieces of discreet elegance; an elegance of ancient Greek origin that is identifiable, yet not imposing.

The collection starts with the CHARNIÈRES. An elegant hinge used by jewel-lers in centuries past to tie precious metals and stones together.

A rich heritage that is always relevant, with a contemporary twist. Authentic, valuable pieces reminiscent of the way jewels were appreciated in earlier times.

The elegance of the first line is still evident, yet with an aggressive almost erotic take. Here the hinge takes on a different form - angular, edgier, sharper but always chic.

It becomes a hook that represents an adult, playful game of seduction. This is CROCHETS.

The collection represents purity, uses simple lines, but with a powerful twist. It is characterized by symmetry, clarity and a sense of sophistication. The lines are designed for women who co-exist with jewellery in harmony, without hy-perbole.

Inspiration was driven by diverse elements, such as architecture, people, senses, silhouettes, the full-of-light, vibrant city of Athens and the way it joins past and present, the combination of grace and sensuality that a woman can deliver. Arianne Labed, was chosen as the brand’s model, as she passes across this feeling of a woman that is sexual, erotic and at the same time pos-sesses finesse.

The photography portraying the collection wants to create the atmosphere surrounding the brand, in a theatrical manner. That is why the products are not photographed at close range, showing just an ear, a hand or a neck. The collection is shown in an environment representing the sophisticated, urban chic feeling of the city that we wish to associate the brand with.

At the Jewellery Historian we felt in love with the creations and work of Yannis Sergakis immediately when we first saw them in his Athenian boutique. Their minimal, but rich in meanings and cultural heritage lines, the elegance cre-ated by the combination of the gold with diamonds in a minimal discreet ele-gance, the elegance of ancient Greek origin that is identifiable, yet not impos-ing, are synonym to purity as only few designers can reach.

By letting the gold and the diamonds to speak for his amazing creations and themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions, he captures the purity of the Greek sun and beauty, reinterprets the rich Greek cultural heri-tage by keeping the essential of it, it’s purity.


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Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle

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An amazing bracelet by Farah Khan Fine Jewellery

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LEYLA ABDOLLAHI



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LEYLA ABDOLLAHIBold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness, Leyla Abdollahi’s jewellery successfully demands your attention.The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confi-dent sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell.

At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to showcase in avant-première the new collections “Passion” & “Radiant” of one of the most talented jewellery designers of her generation.


The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confident sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell.

“My jewellery reflects emotions, passions, and desire with a burst of creativity. I start with a concept that then blossoms into an elegant ornament”

Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness, Leyla Abdollahi’s jewellery successfully de-mands your attention. The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confi-dent sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell.

Born and raised with both Eastern and Western influences, Leyla Abdollahi who has a fine arts background successfully honed her natural ability in jewellery design when she studied for her BA in Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and De-sign.

In 2011, Leyla Abdollahi was launched- “I do not simply create jewellery, I create pieces for collectors who want something beautiful to enjoy and treasure”.

Leyla Abdollahi is a label that is unafraid to challenge conventions, explore new materials and push boundaries. Her handcrafted jewellery provokes the kind of visual pleasure that has caught the attention of many industry insiders and has led to collaborations.

Leyla Abdollahi is currently acclaiming a stance as one of Britain's hottest new fine jewel-lers.


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Leyla’s creations continue to convey an everlasting enchanting artistic experience.

Leyla’s success has been highlighted within the industry with her being nominated for Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards 2012. Leyla’s creations con-tinue to convey an everlasting enchanting artistic experience.

Expanding internationally, particularly in the Middle East, Asia and the United States, Leyla Abdollahi will continue to create fine jewellery that will deliver an artistic experience that is everlasting.

In this issue, we are proud to showcase in avant-première the two new collections of Leyla Abdollahi, the “Passion collection” and the “Radiant collection”.


Ring in 18k white and rose gold, with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby.

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A combination of wonderfully individual designs using vibrant colourful gemstones.

The Passion Collection The Passion Collection, with nature at its heart, offers a combination of wonderfully individ-ual designs using vibrant colourful gemstones. Jewells are gracefully designed with cur-vaceous flowing lines and forms.

What makes the collection more desirable is the versatility and adaptability of the pieces, thus adding another element to the design excellence, finished with elegance and sophis-tication that fine jewellery has to bear.

A playful collection with seductive forms using vibrant colour combinations, but with a nod to gothic influences with dark and dangerous undertones, this will have an instant appeal amongst those that appreciate jewellery design as an art form.


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Ring in 18k white and rose gold, with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby.

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Earrings in 18k white and rose gold, with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby and rhodolite.


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Necklace in 18k white and rose gold,with blue moon stone, blue sapphire, white diamond, ruby.

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The collection is inspired by the beautiful forms, shapes and colours that can be seen through a kaleidoscope

The Radiant collection The Radiant Collection is inspired by the beautiful forms, shapes and colours that can be seen through a kaleidoscope. The magic of random symmetrical patterns and their infi-nite colour combinations, changing with each and every turn of the tube, is almost hyp-notic.

These images of patterns and intense colour variations are amongst some of my most favorite sources of inspiration, which always leave me in awe and amazement. The play-fulness of forms and colours merging with and complimenting each other is a beautiful sight to behold, and one that has been at the core of this collection. The use of coloured stones, their shapes and cuts, and how light reflects and interacts with the jewellery is what makes this collection so special.


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Leyla Abdollahi


Necklace in 18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite, Tourmaline, Amethyst.

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Ring in 18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite, Rose quartz, Ruby, Diamond.

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Earrings in18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite, Tourmaline, Diamonds.

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Ring in 18k Rose Gold, with Rhodolite & Tourmaline

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TURQUOISE

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BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Hedge and Row earrings of turquoise and diamonds in platinum and 18 karat gold by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.


It may lack the transparency and sparkle of the transparent gemstones, but Turquoise has nothing to envy from any other gem. Its rich colour, its lengthy history, its relation with the humans throughout the world and its gentle feel when touched or worn against the skin, make people desire it.

The name Turquoise, that translates as “Turkish stone”, de-rives from the fact that the gem was brought in Europe by Levantine traders, through Anatolia, reaching the Mediterra-nean region by passing across the areas of Turkey. The same name is used to describe its easily recognizable blue-green characteristic colour.

The oldest mention of turquoise comes from ancient Egypt where burial masks, funerary objects and other ornaments carved out of this gem that date back to 3000 BC have been found; for example, we encounter turquoise in the in-lays of the important golden death mask of Tutankhamun. The great goddess Hathor of ancient Egypt was also called the “Mistress of Turquoise” and was the protector of the tur-quoise miners, the patron of the mines and consequently of the whole Sinai peninsula. In ancient Persia, turquoise was used as a protective talisman, a belief that has been trans-mitted throughout the years so that turquoise is still used today as protection against the evil eye in many markets of the world. The thirteen century Persian Scholar Al-Qazwini


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TURQUOISE


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Tiffany pear-shape turquoise and black onyx earrings with dia-monds in platinum.

Left page : Leaves necklace of turquoise and diamonds in plati-num and 18 karat gold by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Price available upon request

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has written: “The hands that wear a turquoise and seals with it will never see poverty”. The name that the ancient Persians used for tur-quoise was “pirouzeh” that means victory.

Turquoise was also a particularly favoured material by Mixtec and Aztec civilizations and was often used by the artists as a mosaic ma-terial to cover statues and masks dedicated to the gods. A famous artifact, that dates back to the Aztec art, is a human skull that is deco-rated with turquoise chips, and believed to represent the god Tezcat-lipoca, one of the a creator gods and perhaps the most important deity in the Aztec pantheon.

Only by hearing the word turquoise a vivid sky blue color comes to mind, but the actual gemstone’s hues may vary from a blue to a green-blue down to a vivid yellowish green. Although the blue colour may be highly valued, the international market puts a great value to the other hues as well. In fact, finely textured and evenly colored green turquoise may fetch quite high prices. The difference in the possible hues depends on the presence, quantity and chemical state of chromophore chemical elements such as copper and iron. Also, because of the fact that the turquoise used for jewelry is a cryp-tocrystalline aggregate and not a single crystal gem, it tends to ab-sorb contaminants from the environment which may cause its discol-oration or staining. The iron that turquoise naturally contains may oxi-dize with time for various reasons, and result in the turquoise acquir-ing a greener hue. People often misunderstand this natural property of turquoise and misinterpret it as if there is “something wrong” with their gem.

The turquoise that is generally accepted as being of the highest qual-ity is the finely textured one that exhibits an evenly distributed, me-dium toned, intense blue colour, with no evident color mottling or ma-trix. This kind of turquoise is often sold as “Persian”, although it may not originate from Iran, because traditionally the highest qualities of turquoise were found in the Persian mines. Other market terms that are used to indicate different varieties –and not necessarily sources- include the “Mexican” or “American” which is used to describe the lighter toned material, while the term “Egyptian” is commonly used for the greenish hues.

Apart from the colour, turquoise is also classified based on its texture and the presence or absence and type of matrix. As mentioned be-fore, being an aggregate means that the material is composed of many tightly grouped microscopic crystals. The smaller these crys-tals are and the more tightly they are bonded to each other, the finer the texture of the turquoise. This means that not only the material will be tougher and more resistant to blows, but it will take a higher pol-ish and it will be less porous, so discoloration will be more difficult to



The oldest mention of tur-quoise comes from ancient Egypt where burial masks, funerary objects and other ornaments carved out of this gem that date back to 3000 BC have been found; for ex-ample, we encounter tur-quoise in the inlays of the im-portant golden death mask of Tutankhamun.



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Necklace from the Tiffany Blue Book 2015, The Art of the Sea

happen. In fact, finely textured untreated turquoise has smooth sur-face and elegant waxy luster.

Sometimes, turquoise may be scattered through its host rock in a way that cutting away all the rock would result in very small specimens. In these cases, the cutters fashion the turquoise so that parts of the rock are included in the finished gem. Matrix, or else, these portions of the host rock present on the polished gem, can affect turquoise’s value. The matrix we may find on natural turquoise can range from light brown to almost black, depending on the type of rock where the gem formed. Generally speaking, the market prefers turquoise with-out any matrix. However, if it is evenly distributed throughout the gem and there is a nice balance between the turquoise and the matrix, the material can still be desirable, as the delicate dark web-like patterns create an attractive contrast with the brightly colored gem.

Since turquoise tends to absorb foreign contaminants that would eventually alter its appearance by darkening or discoloring it, people in the market try to protect it by applying colorless substances on it –simply wax or oils, or more sophisticated polymers- , so that its sur-face is “sealed”. The same treatment would also add to the luster of the gem and make it somewhat more durable as the protective sub-stance would fill the tiny spaces between the aggregate’s micro-scopic crystals. This polymer-impregnated turquoise is known as “sta-bilized turquoise” in the market.

Another misconception considering turquoise is a misleading term that is commonly used in the market, the so-called “reconstructed”

Only by hearing the word turquoise a vivid sky blue color comes to mind, but the actual gemstone’s hues may vary from a blue to a green-blue down to a vivid yellowish green. Although the blue colour may be highly valued, the international market puts a great value to the other hues as well. In fact, finely textured and evenly colored green turquoise may fetch quite high prices.

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Ear cuff in gold, with emeralds, dia-mond and turquoise by Nikos Koulis




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A two fingers ring in gold, diamonds and turquoise by Nikos KoulisPrice available upon request



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Tiffany turquoise and onyx tassel pendant with diamonds in platinumPrice available upon request

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Jean Schlumberger bracelets in 18 karat gold and platinum (from left): Lapis lazuli and turquoise bracelet with diamonds, lapis lazuli bracelet with diamonds.


turquoise. Most of the times, the material sold as reconstructed or re-constituted turquoise contains no turquoise at all; it is just a mixture of powdered materials with blue dye, bonded together with resin or plas-tic.

Although people may erroneously think that turquoise is a “semi-precious” material and that is does not have high value, the truth is very different. High quality natural turquoise is scarce and its supply is very limited, fact that leads to high value and thus high prices. The Nishapur district of Iran is still producing some of the world’s best tur-quoise. The southwest US, and particular the “Sleeping Beauty” Mine in Arizona is probably the top turquoise producer in terms of quantity, while top colour material comes mostly from the mines in Hubei Prov-ince of China.

Turquoise is a joyous gem that with its lively color makes us feel happy. In it, people have always seen the immensity of the bright skies combined with the colour of the sea as it sparkles with green and blue flashes under the sun. When Aquarius caused the great flood of the earth in order to punish the humankind for their misbehav-ior, Deucalion and his wife Pyrrha survived and were told they should repopulate the Earth. After asking for the oracle of Delphi about how to complete this task, they were told that the only way to do it was to walk on the land and throw the bones of their mother behind them. The way they interpreted this was that they should throw rocks along their path, as the rocks are the bones of mother Earth. Those stones were soaked in the flood and had turned into turquoise. As they tossed the turquoise stones over their shoulders, the new women and men of this Earth were created..

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Gucci horsebit necklace in18kt white gold, diamonds and turquoise

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Tassels necklace of turquoise and diamonds in 18 karat gold and platinum by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.


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Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of gold-smiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field.

She started her first collection of polished and rough gem-stones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future.

After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies.

Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and the-ory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jew-elry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Man-agement Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all

the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva re-ceived special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -fa-mous professionals from around world.

Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever ac-complished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones.

Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jew-elry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make suc-cessful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gem-stone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gem-passionates.

At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

Eva Kountouraki



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Gucci horsebit earrings in18kt white gold, diamonds and turquoise

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In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for

you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated,

elegant touch to the most important times of your

life. In this issue we invite you to find the perfect

jewellery for one of our favorite seasons, summer.

- Address book at page 189 -

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Gucci Jewelry is delighted to introduce a new fine jew-elry collection inspired by the flora motif. Poetic, deli-cate and elegant, the line explores different styles fea-tured in both the high jewelry masterpieces and the exquisite fine jewelry.

All Gucci jewelry is handcrafted by highly skilled Ital-ian goldsmiths and the high end jewelry collection is the epitome of impeccable craftsmanship. Luxury is defined by the choice of precious materials, the uniqueness of each design and the meticulous atten-tion to detail. Gucci Jewelry offers Italian made de-signs that can be worn everyday and treasured for-ever.

GUCCI

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Gucci jewelry presents Flora motif in a contemporary assortment of feminine designs


Gucci Jewelry is delighted to introduce a new fine jewelry collection inspired by the flora motif. Poetic, delicate and elegant, the line explores different styles featured in both the high jewelry masterpieces and the exquisite fine jewelry. Gucci Flora’s dainty flowers and butterflies are worked in novel materials and techniques, whilst other new motifs, such as a skull and flower, introduce a bold addition to the original design.

The Gucci Flora collection includes high-end masterpieces that are stunning in their detail, and which represent the ut-most of Gucci’s jewelry artisanship. The signature item in the collection is a neck-lace in 18kt white and pink gold, closely set with an intricate array of flowers and butterflies, expertly wrought in 5.12 carats of diamonds with white enameling. The necklace lies close to the neck and is a sumptuous work of fine jewelry art. A matching snake ring fully set with dia-monds, with sinuous open curves is adorned with a butterfly and Gucci’s iconic horsebit clasp. Those seeking an edgier interpretation of Gucci’s classic pat-tern will appreciate the skull pendant neck-lace and ring duo. Studded with 164 brilliant-cut diamonds and accented with sapphire eyes and flower, this pavé pair-ing is the epitome of contemporary jew-eled street chic.

Marrying intricate goldsmithing tech-niques with charming designs, the other pieces in the Gucci Flora line express a different mood. Necklaces, bangles, ear-rings and rings are worked either in 18kt white or pink gold and offer a perfect com-bination of femininity and modernity.

The pink gold chain necklaces are whimsi-cal and luxurious, scattered with miniature rubies and sapphires for a glamorous yet romantic touch. A more precious necklace variant is seen in a highly detailed version laced with fuchsia enamel butterfly and floral charms, studded with rubies. Con-tinuing this theme are the small stud ear-

rings, deliberately mismatched, featuring a butterfly and a flower design: a nod to Gucci’s unconventional and individual fashion style. The ensemble also comes with a choice of open-work rings, adorned with pink butterflies, flowers or accented with rubies. Completing the look is a matching slim butterfly bangle. All of these delightful pink gold pieces are adorned with charming pink-crimson but-terflies, which are enameled and hand-painted. Each item is set, assembled, and finished by hand, meaning that each little butterfly has a unique color and allure.

Elevating Gucci Flora to new heights are the 18kt white gold items all adorned with gemstones. Rings are chic and modern, making use of diamonds or sapphires, and crafted into a snake design, or in an openwork form, topped by a diamond-encrusted butterfly and flower. These so-phisticated pieces can be accessorized with a matching slim bangle embellished with a dainty diamond butterfly and pavé horsebit clasp as well as with a dazzling necklace interwoven with 18kt white and pink gold hearts, flowers and butterflies.

Gucci Flora is seen here in its many inter-pretations, expressing a stunning and con-temporary new mood that showcases the exceptional skills of Gucci’s Italian master goldsmiths.

Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands.

For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.guccijewelry.com.


http://www.guccijewelry.com

http://www.guccijewelry.com

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GECI

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ADVERTORIAL

A few years ago a group of scientists and passionate gem experts united their forces under the guidance and according to the vision of an experienced professional and created what was to become one of the “big 6” of the gemological world. This is how GECI, the Gemological Educa-tion and Certification Institute was founded and started its operations in Milan, Italy. Al-though the Institute itself counts only a few years of life, the combined experience of its staff adds up to more than 100 years of hand-on work with gemological research, gemstone analysis and teaching.

In fact, one of GECI’s points of strength is the integrity and serious commitment to transparent professionalism that characterizes each one of the staff members, all renowned experts in their fields. Moreover, GECI is one of the very few Gemological Institutes of the world to own unique state-of-the-art gemological equipment with in-house expert scientists to handle the sensitive machinery.

GECI is also a proud member of the CIBJO, and actively involved in all Gemological Commis-sions.

GECI divides its operations in three main fields: Laboratory, Research and Education.

The GECI Laboratory offers maximum reliability and professionalism in the field of identification and grading of Diamonds, Colored Gemstones, Pearls and Jewels.

At the end of each evaluation carried out by the experts gemologists of the GECI laboratory, a report is issued, a statement in English of the identity and quality of the gemstone, which car-ries identification codes and safety standards, that make it unique and inimitable. There are four different types of Reports: Diamond Report, Colored Stone Report, Pearl Report and Jewelry Report.

Scientific Research is among GECI’s primary goals, as a pioneer in gemology and the determi-nation of gemstone origin, but also is the identification of new synthetics and treatments that pose threatening challenges to the international market.

The GECI Education department offers courses which provide a modern training process that responds to the demands of the international market and provides students with the highest pro-fessional standards and ongoing growth. The GECI gemology courses include both academic lectures and hands-on work, through the use of laboratory-classrooms and gemological instru-mentation of the latest generation, with the possibility to take distance-courses.

All courses include diamond grading classes, colored stone identification and grading, pearl grading classes, but also dedicated seminars, lab classes, gem and jewelry marketing courses and jewelry design and sketching. Also, GECI offers advanced gemology seminars for the pro-fessionals that want to keep up with the latest news of the industry. In GECI, they make sure to study the international market needs and challenges and they continuously update their educa-tional program with short classes that address common market issues, like one-o’-one diamond grading, or new synthetics and treatments and their practical identification, classes that are in-ternationally applicable and essential to all the gem and jewelry professionals.

Last month, GECI proudly launched the first ever “Master in Gem and Jewelry Management”. This Master is an innovative program of studies that includes all the subjects that are required for anyone interested in pursuing a career in the gemstone and jewelry business, such as gem-ology (including diamond grading and colored stones identification, synthetics and treatments), jewelry design, jewelry history and marketing, among others.


EDUCATION

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MASTER IN GEM AND JEWELRY MANAGEMENT


EDUCATION

"Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" program is defined by its integrity and based on the latest innovation techniques in the didactic field and gemological research and supported by innovative technologies and specific case studies.

The "Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" prepares every student for a successful and rewarding career in the gems and jewelry industry. The students will have the once in a life time opportunity to develop the skills and knowledge needed to meet the future chal-lenges of the market. Theoretical, practical and technical issues will be extensively stud-ied and reviewed in both an academic and business environment: ethics, gemstones ori-gin and traceability, identification of synthetics and treatments, jewelry design, sketching and marketing are only some of the topics that will provide each student with a solid cog-nitive background.

"Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" program is defined by its integrity and based on the latest innovation techniques in the didactic field and gemological research and supported by innovative technologies and specific case studies. Even more, the Master takes place in one of the most famous design cities of the world and a country whose his-tory is so linked to the history of jewelry: these are additional intangible resources for all the students that will choose GECI. The "Master in Gem and Jewelry Management" will cover topics like: gemology, diamond grading, gemstones identification and colored gem-stones grading, jewelry history jewelry design, sketching, marketing levers for gems and jewelry and management of creativity

GECI educational staff is composed of industry leading experts and instructors who have the well-founded intention to lead the students towards starting a rewarding, stimulating and lucrative career such as gemologist, laboratory analyst, professional jeweler, auction house expert, business manager, designer, purchasing manager, product manager, CSR manager.

The Master starts on the 5th of October 2015 and will end by end of May 2016. It is a full-time course and frequency is mandatory.


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ECI

GECI educational staff is composed of industry leading experts and instructors who have the well-founded intention to lead the students towards starting a rewarding, stimulating and lucrative career.

The lessons will be delivered in English, the international language of this industry.

The Master will be held in the GECI classrooms, in Milan, the heart of fashion, art, history and design. Studying in Milan already guarantees a comprehensive vision of the jewelry world.

The course consists of three independent modules, each module providing an in-depth knowledge of the specific theme. It is highly recommended to register for the full course, however the three Modules can be attended separately.

GEMOLOGY MODULE (23 weeks): Diamond Grading Course, Colored Stone Course, Pearl Grading Course

DESIGN MODULE (5 weeks): Metals, alloys and supply chain, Jewelry history, Interna-tional brands, Jewelry Design and Sketching

MARKETING & MANAGEMENT MODULE (3 weeks): Marketing levers, Innovative sales tools, Customers management, Management of a retail point, Management of a whole-sale point, Management of creativity: from the marketing brief to the jewel production


EDUCATION

Photo courtesy of GECI © GECI

The course consists of three independent modules, each module providing an in-depth knowledge of the specific theme.

The educational philosophy of GECI is based on the experience of its instructors and is enriched by laboratory research on a daily basis. Furthermore, the stu-dents will meet with professionals from the Italian and the international jewelry mar-ket, as well as representatives of the world of branding, design, manufacturing and retail.

The course is open to graduates, postgraduates and professionals who wish to pursue an international career in the world of gems and jewelry. Applicants must be at least 18 years old and possess a minimum of a high school diploma. Appli-cants must be fluent in English.

At the end of the Gemology Module, participants will receive a Gemologist Di-ploma, an internationally recognized Diploma.

At the end of the "Master in Gem and Jewelry Management", graduates will re-ceive a Gem and Jewelry Management Diploma.

For further information visit www.geci-web.com


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ADLER JOAILLIERSwww.adler.ch

ANTONINIwww.antonini.it

AVAKIANwww.avakian.com

BORGIONIwww.borgionis.com

BOUCHERONwww.boucheron.com

CARRERA Y CARRERAwww.carreraycarrera.com

CARLA AMORIMwww.carlaamorim.com.br

CHIMENTOwww.chimento.it

ELENA SYRAKAwww.elenasyraka.com

ENTICEwww.entice.in

ETHO MARIAwww.ethomaria.com

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERYwww.farahkhanfinejewellery.com

GORALSKA JOAILLERIEwww.goralska.com

GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieceswww.guccitimeless.com

GUMUCHIANwww.gumuchian.com

ILIAS LALAOUNISwww.iliaslalaounis.com

INEDIT JOAILLIERwww.inedit-joaillier.fr

JACK VARTANIANwww.jackvartanian.com

KULMALAwww.kultaseppakulmala.fi

L’DEZENwww.ldezen.com

LETICIA LINTONwww.lbldesign.com.br

LEYLA ABDOLLAHIwww.leyla-abdollahi.com

LE VIANwww.levian.com

LYDIA COURTEILLEwww.lydiacourteille.com

MARLIwww.marlinyc.com

MASSIMO IZZOwww.massimoizzo.com

MAURO FELTERwww.maurofelter.com

MEGHNA PATELwww.meghnajewels.com

MOUSSON ATELIERwww.moussonatelier.ru

MATHONwww.mathon-paris.com

NIKOS KOULISwww.nikoskoulis.gr

OMI PRIVÉwww.omiprive.com

PALMIEROwww.palmierogioielli.com

PASQUALE BRUNIwww.pasqualebruni.com

SETHI COUTUREwww.sethicouture.com

SUTRAwww.sutrajewels.com

SYLVIE CORBELINwww.sylvie-corbelin.com

THEO FENNELLwww.theofennell.com

TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.com

YANNIS SERGAKISwww.yannissergakis.com

YEPREMwww.yepremjewellery.com

ZOLOTASwww.zolotas.gr

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http://www.adler.ch

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http://www.jackvartanian.com

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http://www.kultaseppakulmala.fi

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http://www.ldezen.com

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http://www.moussonatelier.ru

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http://www.mathon-paris.com

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http://www.nikoskoulis.gr

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http://www.omiprive.com

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http://www.palmierogioielli.com

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http://www.pasqualebruni.com

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http://www.sethicouture.com

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http://www.sutrajewels.com

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http://www.sylvie-corbelin.com

http://www.sylvie-corbelin.com

http://www.theofennell.com

http://www.theofennell.com



http://www.yannissergakis.com

http://www.yannissergakis.com

http://www.yepremjewellery.com

http://www.yepremjewellery.com

http://www.zolotas.gr

http://www.zolotas.gr

Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos

Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

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Contributors

Eva Kountouraki, Martin Huynh, Christina Rodopoulou

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Creative Jewellery Historian

Production Jewellery Historian

Publishing Jewellery Historian & 16ml

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192

DESIGNERmomentsJEWELLERY DESIGNER MEGHNA PATEL SHARES WITH US, WHERE SHE GETS HER INSPIRATION & WHAT SHE TREASURES MOST IN LIFE.

1 Taj Mahal. I love the intricate designs and details in this monumental building. 2 Inspiration comes from so many different places. This fierce architectural details reflects in my Claw collection. 3 I don't have a favorite gemstone as I feel each precious stone has it's own radiance and beauty. I love creating strik-ing color combination by highlighting each gemstone with different colored stones and sapphires. 4 Switzerland - What I admire most about Switzerland is it's breathtaking greenery, beautiful mountains and valleys. 5 Growing up in In-dia for the first 15 years I have always been surrounded by colors be it Holi(fes-tival of colors), Diwali, clothing or amazing art work. Therefore I am greatly influ-enced with colored gemstones. 6 It wasn’t long before my love of art and fash-ion merged and I began to draw jewelry. I envisioned these pieces hanging off the hand of women like me who loved color and haute couture. 7 My creative process is simple and organic. I receive constant inspiration for my designs from anything that I fall in love with at first sight. 8 The Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa, in Switzerland, is one of my favorite hotels. 9 My pieces are not de-mure; they’re adventurous. What I hope to convey with every bracelet or ring is a warm invitation to go where I have been and see what I have witnessed around the globe.

Discover her creations at www.meghnajewels.com

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Documents

Jewellery Historian, issue #12