Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Jeff Greef Woodworking
Tell Your Friendsabout this page. Click here to send an email.
Thank You!
Sure Lock Miter Gauge
With fence and flip stop.
C-ClampsVarious different sizes.
Home | Free Plans | Links | Newsletters | Tool Store | Book Store | Interviews | Contact & About | Safety
Jeff Greef WoodworkingSee more Project Plans | Sign up for Email Notices of new projects
To see more Box Plans on this site, go to:Printed Box Plans or Downloadable Box Plans or Box Plan
Books
Page 2, Mortise and Tenon JoineryGo back to Page 1.
Cut tenons on the rails and posts on the band saw using a blade that is at least 3/8" wide, and that has fine teeth. A wider blade will not deflect easily, and finer teeth produce a smoother face on the cut. First cut the tenon shoulders using a miter gauge and fences as shown in photo 3. Establish the length of the tenons by the distance between the blade and larger fence. Limit the depth of cut, and thus the width of the tenon shoulder, with a small top fence clamped behind the blade as shown. Note that on the bottom of the posts you must cut shoulders on all four sides of the parts.
Photo 3- Use a miter gauge and fences on the band saw to cut tenon shoulders as shown. The band saw blade guide has been raised for photo clarity. When making cuts, lower the guide
http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/Boxes/OrientMT/index2.html (1 of 5)5/18/2004 11:47:21 AM
Jeff Greef Woodworking
to just above the wood.
For miter gauges, click here.For bandsaws, click here.
Cut the tenon faces by setting up a long fence parallel to the blade as in photo 4. Flip the part between cuts to make opposing faces of the tenons. Note that the thickness of the tenons will be determined by the distance of the fence from the blade. Carefully adjust this setting with test pieces that are the same width as your parts until you get a snug fit in the mortises. You shouldn't have to jam them in with all your strength, but they shouldn't drop in too loosely either.
14" Open Stand Band Saw
3/4HP. Economical Delta
Photo 4- Cut the tenon faces by referring to a fence placed parallel to the blade. The band saw blade guide has been raised for photo clarity.
The above procedure centers the tenons along the width of the parts. All side rails get centered tenons, as well as the top corner rails whose tenons are 3/16" long. But, the top center rail is offset at 3/8" from its bottom. Cutting this tenon will require two fence setups, one for each face of the tenon.
Cut 1/8" wide mortises in the through tenons for the wedges that will hold them in place. Do so on all the through tenons except the very top mid rail, which gets a wider wedge. Cut the mortise for this wedge by hand as described below under alternative methods.
Set up on the drill press with a 1/8" bit to bore holes for the thinner mortises as in photo 5. Bore one hole at each end of the mortises. Use a spacer and a stop block as shown in the photo to bore both holes at one setup. Make the spacer as wide as the distance between the centers of the holes. Bore the first hole with the spacer between the part and stop block as shown, then remove the spacer and bore the second hole with the part
http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/Boxes/OrientMT/index2.html (2 of 5)5/18/2004 11:47:21 AM
Jeff Greef Woodworking
butted directly against the stop block.
Delta 12" Drill Press
13 pc. Bit Set1/16" to 1/4" by
1/64ths
Photo 5- Bore the tenons for wedge mortises at the drill press. Use a spacer block between the tenon and an end stop to regulate the distance between holes.
For drill bits, click here.
Place the tenon in a vise as in photo 6. It's important to keep it in the vise while clearing the waste in the mortise so that you don't split the wood adjacent to the mortise. Use a 1/4" chisel to score the lines between the holes, and then use a nail to pry out the waste. Do the work in stages, alternately using the chisel and then the nail until the waste is cleared and the mortise walls are smooth. Leave the ends round.
Blue Chip Bevel Edge Chisels
Good set of basic bench chisels.
7" Quick Release Vise
Photo 6- Put the tenon in a vise while you clear the waste so that it doesn't split. Pry out the waste with a nail after scoring the edges with a chisel. Pry toward the hidden part of the mortise, because the nail will dent the end of the mortise.
For chisels, click here.
ALTERNATIVE MEANS
If you don't have a drill press or a band saw, you can still make the joints
http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/Boxes/OrientMT/index2.html (3 of 5)5/18/2004 11:47:21 AM
Jeff Greef Woodworking
described using hand methods. However, the work will go more slowly and you will have to pay very close attention to get accurate joints with few gaps.
Traditionally, mortises were cut with chisels. You marked out the mortise, and got a chisel of the same width as your mortise, and began making a series of closely placed cuts within the marked area, gradually deepening the cut. You can speed up the process by first boring holes in the area of the mortise with a dowel jig and an electric drill.
TIP- HAND CUT MORTISES
When hand cutting mortises, don't make the cuts that establish the ends of the mortise until the waste in the middle has been removed. The cuts you make in middle will be rough and inaccurate. Once they are made, you can carefully trim small amounts from the mortise walls to bring them to their completed dimensions.
Cut your tenons by hand using a marking gauge, fine toothed hand saw, and chisels (photo 7). First mark out the tenon on all sides of the part, using the marking gauge. Next use the hand saw to cut very close to these lines, but always staying just on the side of the waste. How close you come to the line is a function of how risky you like to live. Then come back with a sharp chisel and clean up the sawn surfaces.
Veritas Marking Gauge
Japanese Dovetail Saw
Dovetail Saw
Photo 7- Cut mortises and tenons by hand by carefully marking out the locations of the faces and walls first with a marking gauge. Then chop mortises with chisels, and cut out tenons with a hand saw. Leave the tenons slightly fat, and pare them down to fit the mortises. Or, expand the mortises slightly to
http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/Boxes/OrientMT/index2.html (4 of 5)5/18/2004 11:47:21 AM
Jeff Greef Woodworking
fit the tenons.
For measuring tools, click here.For hand saws, click here.
TIP- USING A CHISEL ON END GRAIN
When chiseling end grain as on a tenon shoulder, always push the chisel from the outer surface of the part toward the center. If you push from the inside toward the outer edge, small pieces will break off the edge as the chisel passes across it, ruining your nice clean edge.
Resources for making Mortise and Tenon Joints
Bandsaws | Chisels | Drill Bits | Drill Presses | Measuring Tools | Miter Gauges | Vises | Hand Saws
This is Page 2 of this project.Go to Page 1.
Home | Free Plans | Links | Newsletters | Tool Store | Book Store | Interviews | Contact & About | Safety
You are visitor number 12027 to this page.
http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/Boxes/OrientMT/index2.html (5 of 5)5/18/2004 11:47:21 AM
