Japanese Cooking Full(Japanese Cuisine)

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    J A P A N U S EC U I S I N E

    I

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    SPECIAL SEASl-INGREDIENTS USED INJAPANESE COOKING

    1 Pork a d ight Soy SwceWyu) Soysauce i s brewed from soy beons, wheat, rice, andother ingredients. Dark soy sauce is the most commonkind; light-colored soy sauce contains fructose, andi s often used in light-colored dishes.P PoaM Dashi base comes in either powdered orliquid form, and in bonito, kelp, and small dried fishflavors. Use doshi as stock in cooking.3 Mlrln Mirin is o transparent, sweet cookingwine made from glcitinous rice, frequently used inJapanese cooking.1C I ~ & U V Q ~FwI~--' '-; This condiment,containing sesame weds, finely crushed purple laver(nor$ and bitsof dried bonito fillet, comes in manydifferent types, and i s usually mixed into rice or u din making sushi. Use the type you prefer.5Mk0 Bean P1 Miso i s made of soybeans, rice, wheat, and other ingredients. It comesin regular and low-salt types.6 This i s a yellow, piquant paste madefrom mustard seed powder.7 Wmbl ( J Q P ~ ~oroetadW Japanesehorseradishroot i s first ground into a powder, thenmade into a green, piquant paste.8 8gven-Fkvw Seaming CjhIchlrnl--a-fwm This seasoning i s made from toasted whiteradish sprouts, Szechuan peppercorns, fennel,pepper leaf, sesame seed, chili pepper, and pepper.

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    Doshi stock plays an important role inJapanese cooking. The freshnass and tastinessof a dish often depend to a great extent onthe quality of the dashiused. Presented beloware methods for making the two different kindsof dashi:

    213 to 1 oz. (20-30 g) orlea ~ o n i t o havings(katsuobushi; illus. 1) -c. water1 strip (4" or 10 cm) dried kelp seaweed(kombu; illus. 2) F- -"- - - -

    Rub the kelp clean with a cloth, then spreadopen. Make a series of cuts in the kelpcrosswise at 112" (1 cm) intervals; do not,however, cut al l the way through. These cutsallow the kelp to release more of its flavor intothe stock while cooking; and leaving the kelpin one piece makes it easy to remove.Add the 5 cups of water to a pot together

    with the kelp. Before the center begins to

    boil, remove the kelp and continue to boil.Add the bonito shavings and turn off the heatimmediately. After the bonito shavings havesettled to the bottom of the pot, filter the stockthrough a pieceof cheesecloth. The dashistocki s now ready for use in light-colored dishes,for example, Savory Cup Custard (ChowanMushi; p. 39).DWhole dried bonito fillets may be baked tosoften and shaved to make the bonitoshavings.

    Add 2-112 cups water to the kelp and bonitoshavings used in Dashi I and heat in a pot.Before the center begins to boil, add another213 oz. (20 g) of bonito shavings and turn offthe heat immediately. Wait until the ingredientshave settled, and filter through a piece ofcheesecloth. This dash; can be used in disheswith a darker color, such as Chikuzen Ni(p.24). User ready-made dashi for extraconvenience illus. 3).

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    HOW TO MAKEswhl rzce~~ 4)Choose short-grain or sushi rice that has whole,pure white grains, with no foreign materialmixed in, and with a minimum of broken groins.Wash 2 cups of the rice (do not wash and rinsetoo long, so as to ovoid losing the vitamin 01content in the rice). Drain when the rice i s clean,white, and translucent. Add 1-314cups water andsw k 30 minuter or longer. Cook in an electric ricecooker (or on an electric or gas stove) until done.Leove the rice covered and undisturbed foranother 15minuter after iurning off the heat. Pourthe sushi vinegar over the cooked rice while therice i s still hot, and mix it in with a rice paddle.Fan the rice (either by hond or with an electricfan) while mixing in the vinegar. Do this until therice i s light and fluffy, and the flavor of thevinegar dispersed (illus. 1). Donot allow the ricegroins to cling together in clumps, and do notsquish the grains, or the rice will become stickyand pasty (illus. 2).17 I f you m o b a large quantity of sushi rice,transfer the extra rice to another container andcover with a wet cloth to prevent the rice frombecoming dry and hard. This step is not necessaryif making only a small amount for home use.

    RICE FOR SUSHISuahl vinegarMix 112 teaspoon salt into 3 tablespoons ricevinegar and bring to a boil over low heat. Thenadd 2 tablespoons granulated white sugar andturn off the heat immediately. The vinegar mixturei s ready when the sugar has completely dissolved.Sushi vinegar must be prepared ahead of time,so it is convenient to make a large amount at onceand keep it in the refrigerator for use whennecessary. The proportion of sugar to vinegar canbe adjusted according to personal taste. Thevarious brands of sushi vinegar availablecommercially may also be used (illus. 3).Utgndls for mhlng the awl11 riceA wooden container with a large, flat bottomcan absorb steam and moisture, allowing therice grains to become springy and Ifunovailable, a porcelain or stainless steelcontainer may be substituted.

    How to store wooden containersWash immediately after use, and drip-dry (do notdry in the sun). Store in a dark, cool, and dryplace. Wipe clean with a dry cloth before the nextuse.

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    H Holm"" UDONNOODLES SERVES 4-5112 c. (130 cc] water112 T. (10 g) sah7 oz. (200 g) low gluten flour (about 213 c.)3- 112 oz. ( 100g) high glutenflour (about 113 c.)114 c. low gluten flourDissolvethe srrh in the water. It should be about

    as sohy as sea water (15 units on a salinometer;illus. 1).Mix the low gluten flour and high gluten flourtogether in a large bowl. Add the salt water veryslowly to the flour as you kneod it into osmooth dough. Cover with a wet cloth and leaveundisturbedfor about one hour. Remove from thebowl. Press the dough down with the palm ofyour hand (illus. 2), fold into three parts, thenpress down again. Repeat the above steps for 5minutes (about 3 to 4 times).

    Place the dough on a counter ond knead untilof a consistency that i s neither too soft nor toofirm. Allow to set undisturbed for onother 20minutes. Removefrom the bowl and use a rollingpin (prhrably one with about the same diameteras a broomstick) to roll out into a 4" x 8" ( 10 20cm ) rectangle. Sprinkle some flour over the top.Roll up the dough on the rolling pin (illus. 3) toflatten. You will be rolling out several separatelooped layers at once. Press down and roll to

    lengthen the dough. Spreod open the dough onthacounkr, sprinkfe some flour over it, ond againroll up,the dough oround the rolling pin. Repeatas above 5 more times until the dough i s about1112" (.2 cm) thick. Sprinkle liberally with flourand fold into 3 or 4 layers. Cut into 118" (.3 cm)udon noodles. Again sprinkle liberally with flour,and the noodles are ready for use.U Homemade udon noodhs hove a pleasantlyspringy texture. They can be either siir-fried drboiled, and are very convenient to use. If youdonot use them immediocly after making them,wrap them in plastic and keep in the refrigerator.They will stay fresh for about one week.n For restaurants hat make udon noodles in largequantities, the dough can be placed in a plasticbag, and a piece of cloth spread on top of thebag. The dough i s then stompedon with the feat,rather than kneaded by hand. This makes thegluten in the flour soft and pliable.To cook udon noodles:Fill a pot with water ond bring to a boil. Add theudon and wait until the water comes to a secondboil. Add 1 cup of cold water, then cook anotherMinute. Remove the noodles when cookedthrough, and rinse in cold water.

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    Fish i s one of the mainstays of the Japanesediet, especially in the form of sashimi (cut rawfish}. It i s thus extremely important to know howto select f ish. Freshness i s by far the toppriority: choose fresh or live fish with bright andclear eyes, and translucent, firm, springy flesh.Salt water fish are the most commonly used(fresh water fish are seldom eaten raw). Thefish must be kept at a temperature between37.4'F (3OC) and d l O F (5OC) to preventspoilage. (Do not, however, let the temperaturefall below 37 . 4OF (3OC), or the fish will freeze.It i s also important to keep the cutting board,

    knife, white towels, etc. used in preparingsushimi clean. Wash the fish, remove theentrails, then rinse again in cold water. The fishcannot be rinsed once it has been deboned,since contact with water would wash a w a y theflavor, and also make it more vulnerable torapid spoilage.Learning to debone fish is a key step in makingsashimi. You need only refer to the illustrationsbelow and practice several times to master thisprocedure. Illustrated and explained below arethe methods for deboning fish and forpreparing f i s h for pressed sushi with sashimi.

    12) Basic M&hd for Deboning Fbh (illus. 1-12)

    Start cuwin near the fins. Insert the knife below the Remove the entrails and wash Next, cvt hornhe upper backHold he kn% slightly angled bel ly and rut from ieh to the fish. Cu t from the belll lo fin area down.When YO U hitto the left. When you cut right, all the way through. the toil. the main bone, cut from rightdown to the large bone, turn to left, oll the way through.the fish wer, repeat this samecut, and remove the head.

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    Insert the knife into the toil Cut into the area where the Follow the same procedure to Cut off the fish bones from theportion and cut, down to ta il is joined. You can now remove the fillet from the belly. Repeat on the otherthe bone, towards the head. remove the fillet from one other side. When correaly side.Rernovethefiliet. . side. sliced, it will come off in threepieces.

    Insert o knife betwwn the Cut off the small bones in the Trim the flesh into a rectangle Cut with a sashimi knife asflesh and the skin. Grasp the posterior ventral clre~,where (so that it resembles a block illustrated to form flat slices.skin with your left hand, the dark-colored meat is (or of wood).Remove the flesh by pushing remove the bones with athe knife in. tweezars).

    The bell flesh of tuna fish has Cut into slices about 118" 1.3 Again, cut the bock portion Slices with a rounded edgea high i t ontent, and ir the cm) hick at an an le agoinsf into 118" 1.3m)hick slicer B give a three-dimensionalmost tender ond delicious part the grain (angle t fa knife to an an le against the grain eReo and are convenient forof the fish. the Ieh, and rut each dire off (th. be ip should b.angled use in arrangements.with one stroke of the knife). somewhat to the r i ht, thenangled bod, so tf e sliceshave u rounded edge).

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    EXAMPLE OF A COMPLETE JAPANESEMEALIn a formal Japanese dinner, the arrangementof the utensils and the atmosphere they-createare central to the meal. The meal itself usuallyconsists of three entrees and a soup: one maindish (for example, sashimi, a broiled food, afried meat dish, batter-friedseafood, sic.), twoside dishes (as a rule, these are simpler dishesthat do not repeut ingredientsused in the maindish), soup (consomm~, thick soup, or misosoup), a dish of pickled vegetables, and abowl of rice. Here i s an example of acompleteJapanese style meal as a reference:hbln Dtsh: Assorted Sashimi (see p. 12).Slde DMm! Sesame Beef (recipe right);Fresh Fish Steamed with Tofu (see p. 42).wup: Miso Soup (see p. 18).PWk Yellow Pickled Radish (Takuan) orPickled Cabbage (see p. 51).Rke: Usually white rice with some sesameseeds sprinkled over the top i s served; onspecial occasions, Little-of-Everything Rice(see p. 88) or Red Bean Rice (see p. 85) canbe substituted.

    SESAME BEEF SERVES 4718 lb. (400 g) lean beef

    IT. soy sauce114 c. rice wine2 T. mirin (sweet rice wine)1-112 T. white sesame seeds (toasted)cooked broccoli, as desiredcooked carrot, as desired

    Cut the beef into thin slices and marinatein 1 about 30 minutes.I eat a flat-bottomed frying pan, add 1tablespoon oil, and stir-fry the beef rapidlyuntil medium-well done. Transfer to a servingdish. Place some cooked broccoli and carroton the side and serve.

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    ASSORTED SA!SERVES 4

    6-112 oz. (180 g) fresh tuna fish fillet(maguro)213 Ib. (300 g) porgy (red sea bream;tad113 Ib. (150 g) fresh cuttlefish or squid(ika)1 shed p r p l e laver seaweed (nor4

    1 halfbeak fish (sayon] (3" or 8 cm long:I small gherkin cucumber4 cockles (tori&2 ark shells (akagad114 c. shredded Chinese white radish(daikon)wasabi (Japanese horseradish) and SOYsauce, as desired-- -

    W Slice the tuna into 318" (1 cm) thick strips. Cut the porgy into118" (.5 crn) thick diagonally-cut slices. Set aside.Remove the head, entrails, outer skin, and membrane from thecuttlefish [illus. 1) . Cut in half lengthwise. Make a horizontal slashin one of the pieces on the interior; do not cut al l the way through(illus. 2 ). Insert a sheet of nori inside (illus. 3), and cut into 318"(1 cm ) wide strips. Cut the other half of the cuttlefish into thin slices,and roll into flowers (see page 103 of "Chinese Appetizers andGornishes").

    Roll the gherkin cucumber inside the halfbeak fish fillet. Cut intopieces. Score the cockles and ark shells (with a crosshatch cut),wash each separately, and set aside.Soak he shredded white radish in ice water about 30 minutes.

    Drain well before using.I eatly arrange the ingredients separately on a serving dish.Dip in a mixture of wasobi and soy sauce to eat.O Cutting sashimi is on art; the important things to remember arethat the knife should be sharp, each cut should be made in a singlestroke, and the resulting piece of fish should be as smooth as apiece of marble. Sashimi should be stored in the refrigerotor ata temperature between 37.4' and 41 O F {3' to 5'C), and i s besti f eaten the same day it i s prepared. If there are leftovers, i t i sbest to serve them cooked rather than raw.If halfbeak fish i s unavailable, substitute any other fresh saltwater f ish.

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    - - - - - - - -- - 7-,.---SERVES 44 live prawns (about 4 to 4-314"

    or 10 to 12 cm)1 lemon4 plum leaves (Zba; illus. 1)wawbi (Japanese horseradish),

    as desired3 T. rice vinegar1-112T. water1-112 T. soy sauce

    Wash the prawns. Remove the heads and blanch inboiling water. Remove as soon a5 they turn red in color,then soak in ice water. Cut half of the lemon into thin rounds,and quarter the other half.I hell the shrimp and make 2 to 3 sloshes down the backof each; do not cut all the way through (illus. 2). Fill a bowlwith ice water and ice cubes, then add the shrimp. Stir theshrimp around in the ice water with a pair of chopsticks ora spoon for 1 minute (illus. 3),until the flesh of the shrimpbecomes firm, and it shrinks and curls up.

    Place some crushed ice in a serving bowl, then top withthe lemon rounds. On top of this place the shrimp and thewasobi. Dip in 1 to eat. Place the plum leaves, the shrimpheads, and the quartered half lemon on a-small dish andserve on the side.

    The shrimp can be wrapped in the plum leaves beforeeating for variety.7 f plum leaves are unavailable, parsley may be used asa substitute.

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    FRESH BEEF APPETIZERSfRVES 4

    1 Ib. (450 gJ tender lean beef(or fillet)112 Chinese white radish(doikon)

    112 small red chili pepper2 green onions1 2 onion2 cloves garlicI 1 T. lemon juice1 T. soy sauce112 c. dashi

    Choose tender lean beef that i s bright red and springyto the touch. Trim off the sinews and fat (illus. 1). Cut againstthe grain into thin slices {illus. 2), and arrange on o plate.Cover and seal with plastic wrap (illus. 3). Refrigerate 2hours (at 37.4' to 41O F or 3' to 5 "C).Grind 1 into a puree (see p. 42, Fresh Fish Steamed withTofu), mince the green onion finely, and cu t the onion intohalf rings. Soak the onion in ice water about 10 minute;.Drain well before using. Pores the garlic. Sprinkle all of theingredientsover the cold beef. To serve, mix 2 well and pourover the beef.n When choosing beef that is to be eaten raw, freshnessi s of the utmost importance. The beef should be refrigeratedat a temperature of 37.4' to 4 1O F (3 ' to 5 O C ) . For tastierand more tender beef, refrigerate for 6 ays or more.2 The dressing ingredients may, as an alternative, bepureed together, then mixed well with fresh raw egg yolk,soy sauce, and sesame oil.

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    SERVES 4 MIS0 SOUPRCut the porgy (or other fresh fish) bones into pieces (illus.2). Blanch briefly in boiling water, remove, and rinse underthe tap.W Put 3-112 cups woter into a pot and bring to o boil. Addthe shredded daikon and carrot ond cook until soft. Nextadd the fish bones and bring the soup to a boil. Skim offthe f w m . Pass 1 through a spoon sieve. Mix thoroughly witha wooden stick or a spoon (illus. 3). Turn off the heatimmediately and pour the soup into a serving bowl. Sprinklesome chopped green onion over the top and serve.DTofu and wakame (lobe-leafseaweed) may be substitutedfor the fish bones, and dried fish broth for the water.(Remove the heods and entraits from 213 Ib or 3009 smalldried fish. Add 5 cups water and cook over low heat for20 minutes.)

    213 Ib. (3009) orgy (red sealbream; tai)112 c. each: shredded daikon.'ihredded carrot1-213 oz. (80 g) miso (soy beanpaste; illus. 1) -118 t. eoch: sugar, MSG i(optional)2 T. chopped green onion

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    4 prawns (113 Ib. or 150 g)small amount of fresh spinach,washed well and blanched inboiling water4 slices fish cake &amaboko)small amount of shredded lemon. - peelI 3-112 c. dash;118 t. each: salt, soy sauce

    - - - - SERVES dR Remove the shell from the body of the shrimp (illus. 1).Slash the back vertically, but do not cut all the way through(illus. 2). Cut a notch in the center, about 318" (1 cm) long.Pull the tail out from the notch and curl as illustrated (illus.3). Blanch in boiling water for about one minute andremove.Place the prawns, spinach, fish cake slices, and shreddedlemon peel in a sewing bowl. Bring 1 to a boil and pour

    into the bowl so it is obouf 7110 full. Serve.[7 If spinach i s unavailable, white radish sprouts (kaiware)may be substituted.

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    SERVES 4 STUFFED TOFU POCKEISC u t off one edge from each of the fried tofu pockets (illus. 1).Immerse in boiling water 1 minute to remove the oily odor. Cool,by placing in a bowl of cold water. Remove and squeeze out theexcess moisture.Add 1 and 2 .b a pot, cook about 3 minutes, and remove. Thisi s the fillin for the tofu pockets. Place the fried tofu pockets in theremaining iquid and cook 2 minutes. Remove and cool. Save theliquid. 9Open the fried tofu packetsand stuff eachwith somed he fillingond sauce (illus. 2). Tie the opening shut with a dried gourdshaving, securing it tightly (illus. 3).I A d d 3 the pockets, and the mushrooms to a pot and bring toa boil. Lower the heat and cook until the liquid i s reduced to onecup. Add the Chinese peopods and cook briefly.IIArrange the pockets, mushrooms, and peapodson a serving dish,and pour the remoining liquid over the top. Serve with shreddedgin er root.al T is dish i s especially good for picnics and box lunches.

    8 square fried tofu ocketsB1

    2 or . (60 g) shred ed chicken1 or . (30 g) each: julienned carrot,julienned bamboo shoots.1 113 or. (40 g) julienned burdock2-213 ox .Obzi8 g) shiratuki (clearnoodles made from devil's tongue

    J postr), blanched in boilingwater3 T. sugar, 2 T. so sauce1 118 t . $at, 112 c. cushi8 dried gourd shavings (kumpys) ,8"(20 cm) each (soaked until soft;.69 Basic Rolled Sushi), d 1 TLshi,118 t. salt. uch: sugar, soy sauce4 dried Chinese black muohrooms(shiitake; soaked until soft]8 Chinese papods1 T. shredded ginger raot'

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    u 1 pumpkin (1 Ib. 2 oz. or 500 g),a 2-213 ox. (80 g) chicken breast-.filletI T. mi in (sweet rice wine)2 T. l ight-colored soy sauce C1 t. cornstarch - - q l

    1-112 t. water -1 T. shredded ginger root -- -

    SERVES 4Cut the pumpkin (illus. 1) in half and remove the seeds(illus. 2). Remove the skin at 318" (1 cm) intervals (illus. 3)

    and cut into chunks. Remove the skin from the chicken breastfillet and chop the meat finely.: Add 1 and the pumpkin chunks to a po t and cook over' low heat until completely done (about 15 minutes). Removefrom the broth, and arrange in neat rows on a serving dish.Save the broth.

    Heat a f ry ing pan, add 1 teaspoon oil, and stir-fry thechopped chicken. Add the l iquid from cooking the pumpkinand br ing to a boil. Thicken with 2 and pour over thepumpkin. Top with shredded ginger root, and serve.a Pumpkins with thick flesh are best for this recipe.

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    SERVES 41-1 I3 Ib. (600 ) golden thread

    fish (red coat; or other white-fleshed fish)

    1 c. dashi213 c. rice wine2 T. sugar112 c. light-colored soy sauce7 oz. (200 g) enoki (goldenmushrooms)b Chinese peapodstotal of 1-114 .: shredded carrot,shredded Chinese white radish114 lemon

    C u t he fish down to the bone starting from the upper backportion. Turn over the fish and repeat the same cut (illus.1). Remove the back fins (illus. 2). Continue cutting downto the belly with the tip of the knife. Remove the entrails(illus. 3) and wash the fish. Put 1 in 0 pot andbring to a boil. Add the fish and cover he pot. Cook overmedium heat about 8 minutes, then turn off the heat.II Remove the tough ends from the enoki. Blanch thepeapods in boiling water, then place in a bowl of tap waterto cool. Shred ond set aside.

    Heat 2 toblespoons oil in a frying pan and add the enoki,and the shredded carrot and white radish. Stir-fry until soft,then add It4 cup of liquid from cooking the fish. Bring toa boil, add the shredded peapods, and stir.8 Place the fish and the stir-fried ingredients on a servingdish. Pour the liquid from cooking the fish over the top.Squeeze on o little lemon juice before eating.

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    SERVES 4113 cake konnyaku (devil'stongue paste)

    113 Ib. (150 g) chicken meat (orlean pork)2 or. (60 g) bamboo shoots

    1 113 oz. (40 g) carrot2-213 or. (80 g) burdock root(sob44 dried ~h insse lack mushrooms(shiitake), 2 o z (60 g) lotus root3 c. water

    1 T. rice vinegar1 112 c. dashi1 1I2 T. sugar' I l T .mirin (sweet rice wine)2- 1I2 T. soy sauce5 string beans

    .Cut the konnyaku into slices, and make a slit in the centerof each slice (illus. 1 ) . Pull one end through the center (illus.2). Blanch in boiling water and set aside.III Cut the chicken into chunks. Roll-cut the bamboo shootsand carrots. Shove off slices from the burdock root (illus.3). Soak the dried mushrooms until soft, and make a largecrisscross cut in the center of each. Slice the lotus root andcut along the holes to make the slices into on attractivepattern. Marinate the lotus root together with the burdockroot in 1 and set aside.

    Heat o rying pan and add 1 tablespoon oil. Stir-fry thechicken and other above ingredients briefly. Add the dashiand bring to a boil. lower the heat and continue to simmeranother 15 minutes or so. Add 2 and cook until the saucei s reduced. Finally, add the soy sauce and string beans, andcook until the sauce i s again reduced. Serve.fl The ingredients used in this recipe may be varied to suitindividual taste, for example, Chinese cabbage, taro(dashaen), kelp (kombu) strips tied in knots, wood eors,peas, and so forth can be used.

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    SERVES A BEEF WITH BURDOCK ROOTC h o o s e fresh burdock root with a firm, moist skin (illus.1). Scrape with the dull edge of a knife to peel (illus. 2),and wash. Cut into 1-112" (4 cm) sections, then shred witha knife (illus. 3) or o shredder. Soak in 1 to preventdiscoloration. Droin well before use.I dd the sesame oil to a frying pan, then put in theshredded beef and shredded burdock root. Stir-fry over highheat until dry. Add 2 and continue stir-frying about 3minutes until the sauce b reduced. Transfer to a serving dish.Sprinkle the toasted white sesame seeds over the top andserve.those who like spicy-hot food con stir-fry some shreddedred chili pepper with the beef and burdock root.this dish can also be refrigeratedafter cooking and eaten

    6 oz. (180 g) burdock root (gobq3 c. water, ! I T . rice vinegar1 T. sesame oil7 or. (200 g) tende ' eef,shredded

    - I T. each: water, sc ,ouce'1 4 T. sugar2 T. oil.1 T. white sesame seeds, toasted26 cold.

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    SIMMERED KOMBUBFISHR O D SERVES d1 strip dried kelp seaweed(kumbu; 2' or 60 cm)2-112 oz. (75 g) small dried fish213 oz. (20 g) dried gourdshavings (kampyq, soaked

    until soft (see p. 69, BasicRolled Sushi)2 c. dash;

    3 T. soy sauce2 T. rugor3 T. rice wine

    Have all the ingredients ready (illus. I} . Wipe the kelpclean with a damp cloth. Cut into pieces about the samelength as the small dried fish. Set aside.w Soak the smatl dried fish in water for about 5 minutes.Remove the heads and entrails (illus. 2).

    Place some of the small dried fish in the center of eachpiece of kelp (illus. 3), roll into a cylinder, and tie tightlywith a dried gourd shaving. Place in o small saucepan. Mix1 until blended. Cook the kelp rolls in 1 until the saucethickens and i s almost completely reduced.ERed chili pepper may be added when cooking for a spicy-hot flavor.

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    SERVES 4Remove the seeds from the wintermelon, cut into 1-112"(4 cm) cubes, and peel (illus. 7) . Blanch in boiling water

    about 1 minute, remove, ond set aside. Sook the driedmushrooms until soft and cut diagonally into slices.W Pour the dashi into a pot and bring to a boil. Next addthe wintermelon cubes and bring to a second boil over highheat. Turn the heat to low and simmer about 20 minutes,until the wintermelon i s cooked through, i,e. so f t andtranslucent. Transfer the wintermelon to a serving bowl.IIAdd the crabmeat and mushroom to the remaining liquidand bring to (I boil. Mix in 1, and then 2 to thicken. Pourover the wintermelon, top with the minced ginger root, andserve.El Fresh crab may be used instead of canned in this recipe.Steam the crabs until done, ond remove the meat (illus. 2,3). Scallops, shrimp, or clams may also be substituted.

    -113 Ib. (600 g) wintermelon(wax gourd; 6 g a n )3 dried Chinese block mushrooms- (shiitake)5 c. dashi

    1 can crabmeat112-t. salt112 T. soy sauce118 t. MSG (ajinomoto;OF3 1. cornrtakh2-112 T. water1 113 T. minced ginger root

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    SERVES 4Point the head of the river trout to the right and the belly towards4 r~vmrrout (up) 1 Ib. or 450 gl - you. Insert a skewer in each, entering at the eye (illus. 1 andmetal Or 40 cm long) making the toil portion stick up, ro that the fish looks or t ou h4 T. saltshort metol skewers (6" or 15 cm ksuspended in o rwimmin osture (illur. 2) . Rub rolt onto the En

    long) and tail portions of the r es as u garnish. Sprinkle 118 teaspoon/2 lemon c m T- - s d t over the bod . Skewer the fish together in pairs with the shorter- skewers (illus. 3Tto focilitoie turning the fish over.I reheat the oven to 350 to dOOo ( 177' to 204OC). Broil thefish on the upper rack of the oven about 5 minutes, until it is cookedthrough and the skin is golden brown. Remove the skewers andplace the fish in a serving dish. Squeeze some lemon juice overthe top, and eat while hot.

    To eat, first flotten the fish by pressing down on it with a pairof chopsticks. Turn the fish so the back is facing upwords, and pressdown a few times. Removing the head and center bone will makethe fish even easier to eot.According to Japanese custom, the belly of fish must face theguest when serving this dish; placing it otherwise would beconsidered impolite.3 Mackerel pike, porgy, or other fresh fish may be used in thisrecipe. 29

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    SERVES 4 BROILED FRESH EEL (Unogi Kabayaki)W a s h the eel and cut off the head and tail (illus. 1 ) . Cut into4 equal portions and set aside.Place 1 in a bowl, then add the eel pieces to marinate. Removeafter 30 minutes. Put the remaining liquid in a pot, bring to a boil,turn off the heat, and set aside.

    Insert the skewers lust between the skin and flesh of the eel,spiraling the fish around the skewer (illus. 2) . Oil a baking rack,and place the skewered eel on top {illus. 3) . Place on the uppershelf of the oven and broil at 450F (232OC). Boste the eel withthe leftover marinade as the eel i s broiling (about 3 to 4 times).Broil about 6 minutes until both sides ore golden brown. Removethe skewers, brush some honey on the eel for extra flavor, andsprinkle with toasted white sesame seeds or ground Szechuanpepper. Serve.7 f you do not have an oven, the eel can be charcoal grilled.C See p. 43, Spinach with Sesame Paste, for instructionson how to toast white sesame seeds.

    1 fresh eel (unogi; about 14" or35 cm long, 1 Ib. or 450 g netweight)2 T. sugar6 . soy sauce4 T. mirin {sweet rice wine)dash each: ginger root juice, rice wine8 metal or bamboo skewers1 t. honey1 T. white sesame seeds, toasted

    or 118 t. ground Szechuan pepper

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    BROILED CHICKEN KEBABS (Yakitori]14 oz. 400 g) chicken leg meat1 small onionor three green onions2 green peppers, seeded113 c. each: soy sauce, mirin(sweet rice wine)4 T. sugar1 T. flour

    I - - 112 lemon

    SERVES 4C u t he chicken leg meat, onion, clnd green peppers into314" (2 cm) cubes. On bambooskewers, skewer the onion,green pepper, and chicken cubes (illus. 1) alternately untilthe skewer i s full. Top with a piece of onion to secure thekebab (illus. 2). Quarter the lemon.I ring 1 to a boil, then allow to cool. Marinate the kebabsin the sauce for 10 minutes. Remove.I eot the oven to 450F (232OC) and broil the kebabson the top shelf for 4 minutes. Turn over and brush on someof the leftover marinade. Broil another 4 minutes, until themeat i s golden brown. Serve.The kebabs can also be charcoal-grilled (illus. 3). Brushon the marinade as the kebabs are grilling. Grill until the

    chicken i s cooked through and golden brown. Before eating,ground Szechuan pepper, ground black pepper, or seven-flavor seasoning (shichimi-figamshi) may be sprinkled overthe kebabs, according to individual preference.

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    SERVES 4 BROILED FISH PICKLED IN ....-- 1--Wash the fish. Cure in salt for 30 minutes.I ash the salt off the fish, then sprinkle 1 tablespoon ricewine over the fish, and dry. Wrap in one layer of whitecheesecloth (illus. 1). Mix 1 thoroughly and allow the fishto pickle in it (illus. 2) for about one day. Open thecheeseclothand remove the fish steaks (illus. 3). Rinse clean.Broil in the oven under medium heat (350' to 400F or177' to 204OC) until done, about five minutes. Squeeze onsome lemon juice before serving.13Other types of fish that do not have too many bones maybe used in this recipe, such a s oil fish, cod, or slate codcroaker, etc.fll The fish may be pickled in the miso for 2 to 3 days, butno more than 3 days; otherwise the fresh flavor of the fishwill be absorbed into themiso paste. The same i s true whenpickling vegetables.

    2 marlin (kajikq steaks (213 Ib.or 300 9)118 t. salt1 square cheeseclothI 4 oz. (400 g) white miso1 3 T. mirin (sweet rice wine)2 T. each: rice wine, sugar112 lemon

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    6 eggs5 T. dushi112 t. sab213 t. light-colored soy souca213 t. sugar

    JAPANESE EGG ROLL SERVES 4Crack the 6 ggs into a bowl and beot lightly. Gently mix in

    1 until well blended (do not beat until foamy).Heat a flat-bottomed frying pan. Lightly oil the bottom, using

    a wad of cotton or cheesecloth. Pour about 3 tablespoons of theegg mixture into the pan. Fry into o thin layer of egg over lowheat. Roll up the egg "pancoke" with a poir of chopsticks [illus.1). Plocenear theedge of the pon. Oil the bottomof the panagain,add 3 tablespoons of the egg mixture, and fry into another thinegg pancake. The second egg pancakewill be attached to the first;wrap the second around the first. Agdn place it near the edgeof the pan (illus.2). Repeat this processuntil the eggmixture isusedup.When complete, the egg roll should stand about 1-112" (3cm)high. Place on a bamboo sushi mot {sudare; illus. 3), and rolltightly. Allow to cool, cut, and arrange in a serving dish. Serve.Cooked shredded eel or other cooked foods may be added tothe egg mixture for variety.

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    SERVES4 STUFFED Cl""EN ROLLSI ut down the middle of each chicken leg, and remove the bone~llus. .Carefully cut the chidran with linked slices so that a lor tr'Icken of even hiekmrso results (illus. 2). Marinate in 1 2teaspoon ralt ond 1 teaspoon r im wine for 15 minutes. Quarterthe gherkin cucumbers lengthwise and scrape out the 4 s . ook1 until soft, cube, and set aside.d Add 1 and 2 to a pot and cook 2 minutes, so that the flavorsare well absorbed. Beot the eggs lightly and add to the pot. Stirconstonfly until the enn becomes firm. Allow to cool. This i s the--filling.S mad open the chicken and sprinkle on some flour. Add 112of tEe filling and some gherkin cucumber, Roll into a cylindricalshape. Secure with a swing (illus. 3). Repeat for the second piece- -of Aicken.Heat a fryina pan and add 1 tablespoon oil. Fry the chickenrolls over hi& k t ntil golden brown, then transfer to a steamer.Steam 15 minutes. Remove and ploca in a t. Mix 3 ond odd

    P P"o the ot. Cook until the sauce i s reduced. A low the chicken rollsto coo, then remove the strings. Slice into rounds and arrange on

    2 chicken legs (about 1-113 Ib. or. 600 g)1 herkin cucumber1.813 oz. (40 g) each: carrot,bamboo shoots1 dried Chinese black mushroom(shiitake; soaked until soft)114 c. &hi1 t. light-edlored soy sauce3 .9r2 t. our2 lengths of string, 2' (60 m) each3 T. each: soy sauce, sugar, mirin1, 112 t. flow

    a plate. Serve.34

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    K CL .--. WITH C..-,-9 - R SERVES 4213 Ib. (300 g) lean pork3 T. soy sauce2 T. mirin (sweet rice wine)1 T. each: sugor, rice wine12 slices ginger root8 string beans t-

    Slice the pork (illus. 1) and tenderize with the dull edgeof u cleaver (illus. 2). Make 2 to 3 slashes into the whitssinew areas (illus. 3) to prevent shrinkingwhile frying. Blend1 and mariaate the pork in it for obout 30 minutes. Blanch.'the string beons in boiling water and cut into pieces.1 Heat a flat-bottomed frying pan, add 1 tablespoon oil,and place the pork in the pan. Fry on both sides untilgolden. Remove from pan and arrange on a serving plate.Pour the remaining marinade liquid into the frying panand cook over medium heat until it is reduced to obout halfof i ts original volume and i s thick. Garnish with the gingerroot dices, then pour the cooked morinade over the pork.Garnish with the string beans and serve.

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    r- - - - -- - - - -SERVES 4 - - - ---- 9- --DRemove he head, entrails, andooufermembrane from the squid.Score the inside with parallel or cross cuts (illus. 1 ). Marinatein 1 sbout 10 minutes.I roilingmethod: Heataoil Cur. 2). andthe oven to 450" torr baking dish, and2 frequent1 while i t s broiling. Broil untilboth sides have a deepraramel co or. Placeon o serving plate. Squeezesome emon juiceover the top before eoting.I an-frying method: Heat a flat-bottomed frying an and odd2 tablespoons oil. Add the squidand fry until both ri%.s are goldenbrown. S rinkle on 2. Fry until the sauce i s almost completelyreduced. e onsfer to o serving plate. Squeeze some lemon juiceover the top before eating.Dfhe serving platemaybe garnishedwith pickled red ginger root( b e n i - h g a )andcanned gingko nuts for added taste vorioty ondvisual oppeal.0 lock sesame seeds may be sprinkledon, or uni paste may bebrushed on the squid while broiling.

    I squid (iku; about 213 Ib. or300 9)'I 12 t. salt1 T. each: rice wine, midn1 T. mirin3 I T , rugor4 slices lemon

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    1 Ib. (450 g) chicken meot1 large fresh Chinese blackmushroom (shiitake)112 green pepper1 small onion2 small red chili peppers3 T. each: mirin, soy souce2 T. rice wine4 sheets aluminum foil, 8" (20cm) square4 sheets cellophane, 8" (20 cm)square2 t. butter (or cooking oil)112 lemon

    CHICKEN IN FOIL SERVES 4Cut the chicken into 8 pieces (about 1-114"x 314" or 3 x 2cm). Cut the mushroom, green pepper, onion, and red chilipeppers into julienne strips. Marinate in 1 about 10minutes.II Place a sheet of cellophane on top of each sheet ofcrluminum foil. Grease each sheet of cellophane with thebutter or oi l (illus. 1). Set aside.~ i v i d ehe combined marinated ingredients into 4 equalportions. Place one portion on each of the butteredcellophane sheets (illus. 2). Fold in half, then wrap into apackage (illus. 3).W Heof the oven to 450eF (232OC). Bake the chickenpackets on the middle shelf for about 15 minutes. Removeand place on a serving plate. Open and squeeze somelemon juice over the top to eat.

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    SERVES 4 SEAFOOD IN A TEAPOTWash and stice the chicken and fish. Cut the lemon .into4 slices. Cut the white radish sprouts (illus. 1) into sections.Wash the clams and mushrooms and set aside (illus. 2).

    Marinate the chicken in 118 teaspoon salt. Blanch thechicken, fish, and clams separotely in boiling water.Bring 1 to a boil. Add the chicken, fish, clams, mushrooms,and 1 to a teapot. Cover and place in a steamer. Steamover high heat for 3 minutes, then remove. Sprinkle thewhits radish sprouts over the top and replace the coverimmediately. Serve hot. Squeeze some lemon juice over thetop, then pour out some of the liquid to taste (illus. 3) beforeeating.tl Other ingredients may be used in this recipe, such osenoki, abalone mushrooms, pork, shrimp, fish cake, and soforth.0 If a teapot is unavailable, a bowl or casserole dish maybe substituted.

    38

    1.1 13 oa. (40 g) chicken meat1-113 or. (40 g) fish fillet112 small lemonwhite radish sprouts (kaiwarej,as desired1-113 oz. (40 g) clams4 small fresh Chinese bladtmurhrooms (shiitpke)

    3 c. dash;213 t. salt-ash of li ht-colored soy sauce,. - -4- . -- -

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    SAVORY CUP CUSTARD (ChmnanMushi) SERVES 42 ox . (60 ) chicken leg meat118 t. soy sauceI 18 .4 fresh s rlmp (2-112 oz. or 75 gj4 small fresh Chinese blackmushrooms (shiitake)4 eggs3 c. dash;1-112 t. salt1 t. each:mirin4 slicer fish cake (kamaboko;ripple-cut)1 bunch spinach, blanched in boilingwater and cut into sectionslemon peel, as desired

    I Cut the chickin into 8 srnoll pieces and Garinate in 1 . Removethe shell from the bock portion of the shrimp, but leave head ondtail intact. Makeo crosscut in the center of the mushrooms (illus. 1).1 eat the egg lightly and place in o bowl. Mix in Z'ond strain.1 ivide the ingredients up equally four ways. Place one of theportions in each of 4 steaming bowls (follow this order: chicken,shrimp, fish cake, mushroom). Fill eoch bowl dl5 full with the eggmixture. Skim off any foam (illus. 2). Place the bowls in a steomer.After bringing the water to a full boil, steam 1 to 2 minutes overhigh heat. Turn the heat to low and steam for about I5 minutes.It i s importa~to control the hoot source carefully when steamingegg. Remove from steamer, place some spinach ond lemon peelon top of each, and cover each bowl. Serve.aAn electric rice cooker can olro be used to make this dish. Add2 cups woter to the outer pot and steam about 10 minutes afterthe water has begun to boil. Test for doneness by inserting atoothpick or bamboo skewer. If no egg flows out as liquid, it i sdone. You must either cover the bowls with plastic wrap (illus. 3),or place a white towel or cloth inside the rice cooker cover toprevent the condensed steam from dripping into the egg.

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    SERVES 4 Im':K TOFUBeat the eggs lightly. Mix 1 thoroughly ond add to theegg, blending well. Strain (illus. 1).Pour the egg mixture into o small baking pan (illus. 2,3) or into an Oriental style metal lunchbox ( b e n a . Skimoff any surface foam. Place in a steamer and steam overhigh heat 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the heat to low and steam

    for onother 15 minutes.Remove the mock tofu and allow to cool. Cut into 4squares and place on a serving dish. Bring ,?to a boil, thenpour over the mock tofu. Serve.[7An electric rice cooker may also be used to make this dish.See p. 39, Savory Cup Custard, for instructions.

    4 eggs1-112 c. dashi314 t. light-colored soy sauce314 t. each: salt, mirin314 c. dashi1-213 T . mirin1-213 T. light-colored soy sauce

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    STV "'D LOlUS ROOT PASTE SERVES 42 links fresh lotus root (mnkon), I eel the lotus root (illus. 1) and rook in 1 about 15 minutes (toabout 213 Ib. (300 g) prevent discoloration and to remove any raw taste). Grind into1 T. rice vinegar a paste (illus. 2) and place in a bowl. Mix in 2 until well blended!I 3 c, water (illus. 3). Set aside.112 c. dashi Cut the chicken into 8 small pieces. Mix in 3 and allow to$1 1 t. light-colored soy sauce marinate 10 minutes.112 t. salt Placethe chicken, shdmp, mushroomsand fish cake in a steaming1 t. mirin (sweet rice wine) bowl, then pour enough of the lotus root paste over the top to fill2 or. (60 g] chicken leg meat the bowl about 7110 full. Place in a steamer and steam 30 minutes118 t, soy sauce over low heat. Remove f rom steamer and sprinkle o little lemon1 118 1. sugar peel over the top. Serve hot.

    12-,,2 or.or 75 g) r:The portion of the lotus root closest to the top is tougher butor 8 gingko nuts tastier. If coveredwith mud, lotus root Can be keptaboutoneweek.4 small fresh Chinese black Once lotus roo! i s washed it i s best to use it the same day formushrooms (shiifake) maximum freshness.

    d slices fish coke (kamubcko) El Gingko nuts can be substituted for the shrimp. If using driedlemon peel, as desired gingko nuts, odd wuter and steam 30 minutes before use. Cannedgingko nuts may be used as is .

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    SERVES 4 FRESH FISH STEAMEDWITH TOFUC u th orgy fillets into 4 large pieces. Sprinkleon 114 teaspoonsolt and mi oside.I ui each cakeof tofu into 4 equol p i e s . Score the mushroomswith thrtte intersecting cutr to form a star in the center. W i thekelp clean with a damp cloth, Wash tha spinach and carrot, k n c heach separately in boiling water, and cut into sections.Insert a chopstick several times into the white radish to makea number of "wells" (illus. 1). Stuff the red chili pepper strips inside1llur.2). G r i d nto a puma olus.3]. Add the choppedgreen onion.L i x in 1 thoroughly. This is the vinegar dip.i p w d open the kelp in a bowl. Place the fish, tofu, mushr~mr,s inach, and carrot on top. S rinkle on 2 tablespoons rice wine.%om ovar high heat about 5 to 8 minuter. Remove. Top withshredded young ginger root. Serve hot, with the vinegar dip onthe ride.Cl Other fish (that doer not h v e tooin this recipe, such as cod, slote codIsowam), or grouper; or shrimp, clams,

    7 02. (200 gJ porgy fillet (red seabroom; skin on)2 cakes soft tofu4 dried Chinese black mushrooms(soaked until soft]4 irces dried kalp seaweed (kombu),5 to 2-112" 5 to 6 cm) square1 bunch spinuc4 slicer carrot I2-112 02. 75 g) Chinese whitedadish ( aikon)1 small red chili pepper (seededand julienned)4 T. chopped green onion (greenortion only)4 P. soy sauce1-213 T. each: rim vinegar, lemon juiceshredded young ginger root, as

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    SPINACH WITH T" "1E PASTE SERVES A2 T. white sesame seedsI t. sugar1 2 T. soy suuce2 t. dashi1 Ib. (450 g) fresh spinachbonito shavings, a$,desired

    Wash and drain the white sesame seeds (illus. 1). Toastby heating in a dry frying pan over low heat (use no oil;illus, 2). Grind into a powder (illus. 3) and mix together wellwith I . This is the sesame paste.Wash the spinach thoroughly and blanch in boiling waterabout 1 minute. Rinse in tap water to cool. Squeezeout theexcess moisture. Cut into 2" (5 cm) sedions. Place in aserving dish. Toss with the sesame paste and top with bonitoshavings to serve.13 Other vegetables, such as string beans, garlandchrysanthemum (shungiku),Chinesecabboge, and so forth,may be substituted for the spinach.D The white sawme seeds may, as an alternative, be toastedand sprinkled directly on the spinach insteadof first groundinto a powder.

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    SERVES 4W Boil the shrimp until just cooked, shell, and set aside. 8 shrimp (213 Ib. or 300 g)Small, thin okra is more tender and tastier (illus. 1). Rub 4 okra (ladies' fingers, gumbo)gently with 1 8 teaspoon salt (itlus. 2). Rinse clean. Blanchin boiling water, cool in top wafer, and cut into thin slices. 1 t. rice vinegarI eparate the egg. Transfer the yolk to a large serving 1spoon, then ploce the spoon on the surface of boiling water. 118 t, sugarStir the yolk corefully with a pair of chopsticks until of athick consistency, about one minute (if will be about 3110cooked). Be extremely careful not to burn yourself on thesteam! Place the egg in a bowl and mix in 1, blendingthoroughly. This i s the egg dressing.Arrange the shrimp and okra on a sewing plate. Pouron a small amount of egg dressing and serve.El Bonito shavings (illus. 3) may be sprinkled over the topjust before eating for extra flavor.If okra i s unavailable, gherkin cucumbers may besubstituted.

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    OClOPUS SALAD SERVES 44 Wash the octopus (illus. 1). Cook in boiling wak r about 5 to6 minutes. Remove, oHow to cool, and cut into 114" (.3 cm)diagonal slices.WWash the gherkin cucumbers. Blanch in boilingwater 3 seconds,then immerse in cold water (this gives the cucumbers cr brilliantteen color).'Drnin. Moke diagonal (at a 45O angle) crosscuts ini s gherkin cucumbers, cutting about halfwo through (illur. 2).Turn over the cucumber and cu t again in ti same way. Thecucumber must remain connected (illus. 3). Cut into approximately2-112" (4 cm) pieces.Rinse the wakrrme to remove the salt it contains, then s ueszeout the excessmoisture. Cuthe otus root into thick strips, fol owingthe grain. Blanch the wukame and the lotus root separately inboilin water. Marinate in the vinegar, together with the gherkincucum%ers.H Bring 1 to a boil and stroin. This i s the vinegar dressing..Arrange the octopus, cucumber, wa k om , lotus root, and gingerroot puree neat1 on a serving plate. Pour the vinegar dressingover the top ani erve.G Squid or shrimp may be substituted for the octopus n this recipe.

    7 oz. [ZOO g) fresh octopus (toko)2 herkin cucumbers2.812 or. 75 g) w k n a (lobs-leafseoweed1 -113 or. 1 0 g) lotus root (mnkon)2 T. rice wine,1

    a

    114 c. each: rice wine, water1 T. light-colored soy sauce3 T. sugar112 t. scllt113 or. (10 ) bonito shwings&rrt~uobus )ginger root puree, as desired

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    rU P -

    SERVES 4Ploce the cucumbers on a cutting boord. Sprinkle 118 teaspoonsolt over thom and gently rub it in to moke the cucumbers soh andpliable fillus. 1). Rinm clean. Cut into 1116" (. 1 an) hin rounds.Cure in another 118 teaspoon sol?for 5 minutes. Squeeze oui theexcess moisture ond marin* in 1.Impole one shrimp on each bamboo skewer illus. 2). Blanch

    i Ibout 1-112 minutes in boilin woter. Place the s r im I n a bowld old water to md. Pullout e skewers. Rnnova the k d r , rhdl,and se t aside.I loee the sheet of plastic wrap on the bamboo mat. Gentlysqueeze the cucumbers dry and neat1 a m n e .themina lat, we nlayer on the plasticwmp, abut 1-ldn1$ wide (illus. 3); ovoidstacking the cucumbers on top of each other. Pbcm the shrimp inthe center. G d y d l nto a tight cylin&r. Place in t b efrigerator.Before sewing, use o shar knifa to dice h e roll into 12 smallPieces, cutting with one sing e downword stroke. Gently removethe plasticwrap. Arronge neatly on a sewing dish. Sprinkle 2 overthe top ond serve.

    2 stmight) gherkin cveumberrII 12.~9.'. ice vinegar4 shrimp (113 Ib. or 150g)bamboo skewerstamboo sushi mat sudure)1 sheet plastic wrap 6" or 15 ansquare)2 T. sugar

    I2 1. r i a vinegor

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    4 ASPARAGUS WITH COD ROEUseonly the most tender portionof the asparagus. Blanch 2 ,talbgreen arpDrogurboiling water for 1 minute and remove. Cool in a bowl pouch od roe (,arako;top water. Cut into 1-112" (4 cm) pieces and place in a illus. 1)dish.Make a slash on the surface of the cod roe pouch (illus.). Turn over ond scrape off the cod roe (illus. 3). Mix in12 teaspoon rice wine. Sprinkle over the top of the

    and serve.Fresh cod roe con be kept in the refrigerator and eatenSeasoned (e.9. piquant, salty) cod roe is called turuko.This dish can be served as an appetizer at a banquet,d is also good as an accompanimenf to wine.

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    SHlRATAKlWITH UNIME1 2 Ib. (225 g) shimtaki118 t. salt118 t. each: rice wine, MSG(optional)

    1-1M . uni paste (sea urchin,sea Assfnut paste; illus. 1)113 T. rice vinegar213 T. soy souce118 t, rice wine, MSG (optional)mustard (illus. 2), as desiredwhite radish sprouts (kaiwure),as desired

    SERVES 4Blanch the shirutaki (illus. 3) briefly in boiling water andremove. Place in a frying pan with 1 (use no oil) and stir-

    fry until dry.Stir 2'until combined. Add the stir-fried shiratuki and stiruntil well mixed. Place in o serving dish. Top with 3 andserve.

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    4 ASPARAGUS WITH COD ROEUseonly the most tender portionof the asparagus. Blanch 2 ,talbgreen arpDrogurboiling water for 1 minute and remove. Cool in a bowl pouch od roe (,arako;top water. Cut into 1-112" (4 cm) pieces and place in a illus. 1)dish.Make a slash on the surface of the cod roe pouch (illus.). Turn over ond scrape off the cod roe (illus. 3). Mix in12 teaspoon rice wine. Sprinkle over the top of the

    and serve.Fresh cod roe con be kept in the refrigerator and eatenSeasoned (e.9. piquant, salty) cod roe is called turuko.This dish can be served as an appetizer at a banquet,d is also good as an accompanimenf to wine.

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    SAT ""' ROEWITH r"'10N PUREE SERVES 4Ib. (600 g) Chinese whiteradish (duikon)T. salmon roe (illus. 1) Grind the white radish into a puree (illus. 2). Gentlysqueeze out the excess mois!ure (illus. 3) and place in aserving dish.Sprinkle the salmon roe over the top of the white radishpuree and serve. Small dishes of soy sctuce moy be servedon the side as a dip, if desired.0 Both salted and unsalted salmon roe are availablecommercially; choose the kind you prefer.

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    MIS0 PICKLESPlace the white miso in a clean, dry bowl. Mix I (illus.1) into the miso until well blended.

    W Rub 1 teaspoon salt on the cucumbers and allow to setfor 2 minutes. Rinse clean. Move to o cool phce to air dry.Add to the miso paste and mix well (illus. 2). Transfer thecucumberswith miso to o container that con be tightly seoled(illus. 3). Allow to cure 2 to 3 days. Rinse and cut into slicesbefore servina. IflTender ag&lant, head cabbage, carrots, Chinese whiteradish, etc., can be pickled with this some method.nDo not allow to cure more than 3 days, or the liquid (andflavor) contained in the vegetables will escape into themisopaste.

    1-113 Ib. (600g) gherkincucumbe= I14 oz. (400 g) whitemiso (soy Ibeon paste), 5 T. mirin (sweet rice wine)2 T.'sugar112 T. soy sauce

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    lneseIb. (1000 g) Ch'cabbage (net weight)T. w i t2" (5 cm) piece dried kelp(kombu)small red chili pepper, sliced

    I uarter the Chinese cabbage and air-dry fillus. 1).Sprinkle on the salt (put extra salt on the ortion near theroot). With a scissors, cut the kelp into 11 0" (-2 cm) widestrips. Set aside. fPlace two uarters of the cabbage in a dry bowl, sprinkleon some rea chili pep er and kel (illus. 21, then add

    Pnother two quarters o cabbage. Race the large end ofone cabbage quarter together with the small end of theother (illus. 3). Follow this procedure until all of theingredients are used u . Cover with a woodan lid s l i htlysmaller than the mout of the container. Place a roc1 rother heavy object on top as a weight and leoveundisturbed 2 to 3 days.After 3 days, the cabbage must be taken out and rinsedclean (otherwise it will go sour). Rinse agoin in cold water,squeeze out the excess water, and store in the refrigeratorin o clean container with a sealabte cover; or cover withplastic wrop. Serve any amount ann A glass or ceramic bowl or a woo en containermay olsobe used to make pickles. rmem51

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    I, SERVES 4 BEEF SUKIYAKI

    1d oz. (400 g) beef, thinly 2-213 ox . (80 g) shimtakisliced (or udon noodles)2 large Chinese green onions 314 c burdock root1 onion (aobZ), julienned1 Iorge cake tofu 2-112 or . (75 g) buttergarland chrysanthemum Kan6 style souas:(shun@ku) or spinach, 112 c. eoch: mirin, soyas desired sauce, d d i2-112 oz. (75 g) moki 2-4 . sugar3-112 ox . (100 g) Chinese 4 W ~ Scabbage 1 c. dushiI Cut the large Chinese green onions into diagonal dices, the onioninto 114" f. 5 crn) slices, and the tofu into large cubes. Cut off thetough and wilted portions from the garland chrysanthemum, and thetough ends from the enoki.Cut theChinesembbuge into large chunks.Wash each of the ingredients separotely. Blanch the shirataki inboiling water. Set aside.d Arrange the sliced beef and all of the other ingredients neatly onserving plates.Heat a sukiyaki pot and melt the butter in it. Move the butteraround with a pair of chopsticks to distribute the butter evenly overthe surface. Soutd the large Chinese green onion in the butter. Addthe beef slices and stir-fry briefly. Add some of the vegetables. Bring1 to o boil and pour over the beef and vegetables. Continue to wokat the table. Break an egg into eoch of 4 ricebowls and beat lightly.Dip the sukiyaki ingredients in the egg before eating.W Finally, add the dash;, then the shirataki, tofu, greens, etc. Bringto Q boil and eat. This i s an excellent winter dish.El 1 is KontS {Tokyo area) style sauce, with more liquid. There i salso Kansai (Osaka ore01 styk sauce, which has less liquid; it consistssimply of 112 cup soy sauce and sugar to taste. Use the sauce youprefer.

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    ',E *-- ---0 -";I(St ' I Shabu)

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    SEAFOOD AND VEGETABLE CHAFING DISHSERVES 4I resh fish (1 Ib. or 450 g)1 cuttlefish or squid (213 Ib. or300 g)4 shrimp (112 Ib. or 225 g)112 tb. (225 g) chicken meat1 large cake tofu1-113 Ib. (600 g) Ch'nesecabbage114 large carrot1 bunch spinachI 5 c. dashi1 3 T. rnirin6 T. light-colored soy sauceI T. lemon juice2 4 . soy sauce1-314 c. dashi

    Remove the head and bones from the fish (seep. 8). Cutthe fish meat into small pieces. Score the cuttlefish with acrosscut (illus. 1). Remove the shell f rom the body portionof the shrimp. Cut the chicken into pieces, and the tofu into314" (2 cm) cubes.

    Pull the leaves off the Chinese cabbage, one by one. Cutthe carrot into matchstick-sized strips. Leave the bunch ofspinach whole; do not cut. Wash each ingredientthoroughly, then blanch separately in boiling water untilsoft. Place some cabbage leaves, carrot, and spinach ona bamboo sushi mat, and roll tightly into a cylinder shape(i l lus.2, 3), Cut into 1-114" (3 cm) pieces.

    Add 1 to a clay po t and bring to a boil. Place the fishhead, chicken meat, and the rest of the ingredients into thepot. Cook at the table while eating. Dip in 2 before eating.U Large Chinese green onion, dried Chinese blackmushrooms, garland chrysanthemum (shungiku), and soforth, may also be used in this recipe.

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    2 fried fish sausages (chikuwa;illus. 1)1 cake konnyaku213 Ib. (300 g) Chinese whiteradish (daikon)12 each: fish balls, quail eggs8 rolls kelp (kombu)

    4 cakes deep-fried tofu8 slices burdock root (gob4fampura (illus. 2)5 c. dashi1 1 112 c. mirin1-112 T. toy sauceI T. each: white miso, sugar4 T. each: ketchup, cold water1 t. chili pastsmustard, as desired

    SERVES ACut the fried fish sausages into chunks or diagonal slices.

    Cut the konnyaku into small pieces. Roll-cut the white rodishinto chunks. Skewer the fish balls and quail eggs, four perbamboo skewer (illus. 3).Blanch the kelp rolls in boilingwater for about 2 minutesto remove the seawater odor. Cook the white rodish in a

    fresh pot of boiling water until done, about 5 minutes.Remove.Bring 1 to a boil in a clay pot. Add the other ingredientsto the boiling liquid, then lower the heat ond simmer about40 minutes, until the flavors are well absorbed. Dip in 2 ormustard before eating.n The success of this dish depends on the quality ondfreshness of the ingredients used. Choose the very bestingredientswhen shopping for this dish. St&d tofu pockets,octopus, and so forth, may be substituted for some of theingredients in this dish.

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    SERVES -.1 l i ik lotus root (renkon)8 slices pumpkin (or sweet pototo)8 string beans4 dried Chinese black mushrooms(shiitake; soaked until soft)8 cobs baby corn (or 8 slices okra)8 stalks asparagus1 eggplant (preferably long thinOriental)

    1 113 or. (40 g] shredded burdockroot (gob4I large egg1 314 c. ice water1 c. low-gluten flourflour, us neededI 14 c. each: mirin, soy sauca1 c. dashi* 116 oz. (5 g) bonito shavings(kotsuobushi)1 c. Chinese white radish (daikon)1 T. ginger root puree

    mCut the lotus root into 114" (.5 cm) slices, then corve the edgesto form a decorative pattern (illus. 1). Cut the remainingvegetableingredients into decorative patterns as well (illus. 2, 3). Mix 1 tomake the batter (see p. 60, Seofood Tempuro).H e a t 2 cups unused oil to somewhat under smoking. Dip thevegetables f i rst in the dry flour, then in the egg batter, and deep-fry one at a time until crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove from theoil and arrange in a sewing dish. Serve hot. Dip in 2and 3beforeeating (the same or with seafood tempura).Dfhe temperature of the oil i s extremely important when fryinghmpu r a . After heating the oil, drip a little batter in it to test thetemperature; if he botter floats up quickly to the surface, the oili s about right for frying seofood tempura. If the batter drops donot riseus quickly to thesurfoce, theoil i s probobly about the righttemperohre for frying vegstoble tempura.aThe temperature of the oil must be kept constant, After deep-frying the tempura, return to the oil to fry onother 30 seconds ora crispier batter coating.

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    FRIED PORK CUTLETSERVES 4

    1 Ib. (450 g) pork cutletI 118 t. salt118 t. pepper114 c. low-gluten flour1 egg (lightly beaten)1 c. fine breod crumbs2 c. shredded cabbage1 tomato1 gherkin cucumber (cut into thin

    diagonal slices)

    Cut of f the sinews from the edges of the pork cutlet (illus.1). Cut into 4 equal pieces (illus. 2). Sprinkle on 1. Gentlydip first in the flour, then in th e egg mixture, then in the finebread crumbs.W Heat 2 cups oil to medium hot in a frying pan or wok.Fry the cutlets about 5 minutes (be sure to remove particlesfrom the oil when f rying to keep it clean). The surface ofthe cutlet should be crisp and golden brown, and the meatshould be cooked through. Remove from the oil, cut intopieces, and arrange in a serving dish. Garnish with theshredded cabbage, tomato, and gherkin cucumber slices.Dip in ketchup or pepper-saltbefore eoting; or a little lemonjuice may be squeezed over the top.Spray the fine bread crumbs lightly with water before use(illus. 3) to prevent the fried batter coating from becomingtoo hard.

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    SERVES 4 MACKEREL BARBARIAN STYLEW a s h he mackerel (illus. 1) and dry with paper towels(illus. 2). Dredge in flour (illus. 3) and set aside.L Heat the 4 cups oil in a frying pan or wok. Deep4 y thefish in the oil over high heat for one minute. Turn the heatto mediumand continue to fry until crisp (about 8 minutes).Remove from the oi l and place pn a serving plate.

    Stir-fry the onion until soft. Add 1 and bring to o boil.Add the green pepper and red chili pepper. mixing well.Pour over the fish. Squeeze o little lemon juice over the t,opbefore eating.5 Other fresh fish of a similar size may be cooked in thisway.

    4 mockerel (total 1 Ib. or 450 g)2 T. low-gluten flour4 c. oil for fryingI12 onion, cut in half-rings1 112 c. rice vinegar

    1 1 T. each: sugar, soy sauce2 T. dashi1 green pepper, cu t in juliennestrips112 small red chili pepper, cut injulienne strips112 lemon

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    2 large cakes soh tofu112 c. low-gluten flour112 e. Chinese white radish(daikon)puree1 T. ginger root puree2 T. chopped green onionI 114 c. mirin (sweet rice wine)1 l l 4 c . s o y s a u c e1 c. dashi

    DEEPFRIED TOFU SERVES dTrim off the hard edger from the tofu (illus. 1 ) and cut

    each cake into 4 pieces (illus. 2). Dredge each piece in flour(illus. 3)Heat a frying pan or wok and add 3 cups oil. Heat untilsomewhat under smoking. Fry the tofu over high heat about1 minute, until it i s golden brown on the outside but still

    tender inside. Remove from oil.Place the white radish puree, ginger root puree, andchopped green onion on top of the fried tofu. Bring 1 toa boil, pour over the top, and serve.

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    SERVES 4 1

    4 dried Chinese black mushrooms(shiitake)I c. soak water from dried mushrooms2 T. sugar1-112 T. soy sauce213 or. (20 g) dried gourd shavingsIkampy"Idash of sa tI 1 c. dash;2 T. soy sauce3 T. sugar4 eggs -112 t. each: salt, sugar1 113, . SOY sauce2 gherkii cucumbers (or some

    spinach)1 bamboo sushi mat (sudare)5 sheets purple laver (nori; toasted)1 c. water1 2 T rice vinegar4-112 c. sushi rice

    H Soak the dried murhrooms until soh. Add 1 and cook until thesauce is almost completely reduced. Allow to cool, then cut themushrooms into strips.Soak the dried gourd shavings in water for about 10 minutes.Remove and rub with salt (illus. 1). Cook in 2 until the sauce is

    olmost com letely reduced. Cool and cut into pieces about the samelength as t! purple laver. Set aside.Beat the eggs lightly and mix in 3. Fry into 1-114" (3 cm) hickslices (see p. 33, Japanese Egg Roll]. Cut into strips. Quarter the

    gherkin cucumber lengthwise and scoo out the seeds. Set aside.Wash the bamboo mot and air-dry. PPace o sheet of purple laveron the mat. Wet both hands with 4. Pick up 1 cup of sushi riceand place in the center of the purple laver, then spread it evenlyover the seaweed. Leave 318" ( 1 cm) of the seaweed free at thefront, and 314" (2 cm) at the back. Arrange the above ingredientsneatly across the center of the rice (illus. 2). Pick up the front ofthe seaweed {illus. 3) to roll the sushi into a cylindrical shape. Rolland press to ether tightly with the bamboo mat. Press even thetwo ends of tfe sushi, then remove the bamboo mat. Cut the sushiin half, then into a total of eight small pieces (wipe the knife witha wet cloth to prevent sticking). Serve.When making small amounts of sushi at home, the dried ourdshavings and dried mushroomr can be cooked together in B and2 unfil the sauce i s reduced. This method saves time and bother.n Egg fried into a thin "pancake" may be substituted for the purplelaver. Place some lettuce on top of the rice. Shrimp, asparagus,broiled eel, and s o forth can be included in the filling to make allso r t s of sushi variations.

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    24 PIECESASSORTED PRESSED SUSHI

    5 slices fresh tuna (maguro)fillet (2-112 oz. or 75 g]3 slices kesh porgy fillet ( I -213or. or 45 g)1 C. water' 1 2 T rice vinegar4 c. sushi ricewosubi, as desired113 02 . (10 ) bash salmon roeBdrips purp e laver (nor;:l"x5"or 2 . 5 ~8 cm)113 or. (10 g) fresh sea urchin(u.9

    3 thin slices cuttlefish ( 1 oz.or 30 g)3 cooked shrimp (see p. 46,Shrimp-Cucumber Rolls)3 slices egg roll (see p. 33,)a anese Egg l o l l )3 arC she115 (akagog3 cockles (torigcrr)2 slices halfbmk (sayor4fillet (1 or . or 30 g)

    pickled sweet-sourroot and lemon s Ices, asdesired yingernow to prepare ::i. ar prel 'W i ith sashknl: Slice the f ish (see p.9).Dip your hands in I.Pick u p about 213 02 . (2 0 g) sushi rice with your righthand, and gently squeeze into a rectangular block.I ick u a slice of fish in your left hand ond brush a little wasabi over therentor ( i k s I ) . Place the sushi rice block on top of it (illus. 2). Press downgently on the sushi rice with your right index finger (illus. 31, then turn it overso the fish is on the top. With your right thumb and index finger, press bothsides so that it i s roughly redangular (illus. 41, then gently press down onthe fish slice with your r i ht index finger and middlefinger. At the s am e time,press +he ish out towar! one end with your left thumb, so that the f i sh o r ooutward (illus. 5). Turn the sushi around and repeut on the other end. Repeatthe whole procedure on the same two ends or a finished look. Repeat thesame procedure for each of the items in 2 .To make pre-d SuSM ~ 4 t halmon toe: Pick up a holf-handful of sushirice and form it into a cylindrical shape. "Frame" the rice by pressing a stripof purple laver around the outer edge; seal the two ends together onto therice with some rice vinegar. F i l l with salmon roe. Follow the same procedurefor the sea urchin.Arronge the assorted pressed sushi aRractively in a serving dish and serve..- TO eat:Using chopsticks, turn the sushi so that the filling side faces sidewaysjillus: 61,then dip in soy sauce (illus. 7). Sushi can, qlso be eaten with the

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    'HAND=ROLLEDSEAWEED SUSHI (Ternaki)6 ROLLS

    6 sheets purple laver (nori;lO"x3-112"or 2 5 x 9 cm)2 leaves lettuce4 stalks green ctsparogus2 cooked shrimp

    I 1I2 packet fine bonito shavings(hanagatsuo)mayonaise, as desired1 2 leaves lettuce112 gherkin cucumber (cut 1-314"or 7 cm long)3 T. sushi rice

    wasabi, as desired2 slices sashimi! 2 leaves lettuce112 gherkin cucumber (cut in thindiagonal slices)4 t. salmon roe

    Cook he asparagus in boiling water until done, then cutin 2-314" (7 cm) pieces. See page 46, Shrimp-CucumberRolls, for instructions on how to prepare the shrimp. Arrangeall the ingredients on plates and have ready.Toast a sheet of purple laver. Place half of 1 in cr cornerof the seaweed, in order, and roll up (illus. 1, 2, 3).Roll 2 and 3 in the same way a s 1. Serve and eat

    immediately (to prevent the seaweed from becoming soggy).EI To toost he purple laver: Place the seaweed in a dryfrying pan or wok, or on the lower shelf of an oven. Toastabout 5 seconds and remove. Pretoasted seaweed i s alsoavailable commercic~ll.This dish i s a good finger food for banquets or buffets.

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    4 ROLLS8 stalks fresh green asparagus112 stalk celery112 apple2 slices ham (square)2 stalks Chinese celery4 eggsleaves lettucemayonaise (or salt), as desired

    Cut the tender ends of the green asparagus into 2-314"(7 cm) lengths. Blanch in boiling water and cool in tapwater. Pare off the strings from the celery and cut into2-314" (7 cm) lengths. Cut into thin strips along the groinand soak in ice water. Cut the apple into thin strips and soakin salt water. Drain each separately before use and setaside. Cut the ham into fine strips. Blanch the Chinese celeryin boiling water, cool in tap water, then tear into fine strips.

    Beat the egg lightly. Fry into 4 egg "pancakes" (about6-112" to 8" or 17 to 20 cm in diameter).Spread out one of the egg "pancakes". Lay a leaf oflettuce on it, then top with 114 of the asparagus, celery,apple, ham, and some mayonaise (illus. 1). Fold the egg"pancake" in half, allowing the filling to protrudesomewhat(illus. 2). Roll the two ends towards the center, then securewith the Chinese celery shreds (illus. 3). Repeat for theremaining three egg "pancakes". Serve.The fitling ingredientscan also be rolled in Chinese mooshu shells (Peking duck flour wrappers), bread, etc.

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    SERVES 1c. sushi rice2 sheet purple laver (nori; cutinto fine shreds)slices marlin (kajiki) filletslices cuttlefish (ika)gherkin cucumberslices tuna fish (maguro) filletslices Japanese egg rollark shell (akagai)slice octopus (tako)slice (1-112" or 4 cm square)broiled eel (unagi)slices mackerel (sabo)shrimpslice cockle (torigai)fish rollsdried Chinese black mushroom[shiitake; soaked until soft andcooked)

    12 t. wasobi (Japanese horseradish)

    P l a c e he sushi rice (see p. 6) in a serving dish and sprinkleon the purple laver shreds. Roll the marlin into a flower (see"Chinese Appetizers and Garnishes", p. 103). Spread openthe cuttlefish slicer, place 112 gherkin cucumber on top, androll up. Secure with a toothpick, then cut into pieces.Arrange the tuna fish fillet, Japanese egg roll slices (see p.33), ark shell, and other ingredients neatly on a platter.

    Cut the other half of the gherkin cucumber into thindiagonal slices. Place the mushroom on the side as agarnish, then top with the wasabi and serve. This i s aKant6 (Tokyo) style dish.ti Fish rolls can either be bought ready-made, or madeyourself ot home. To make: Cut a 3 " x 1 112" (8x 4 cm)piece of fish fillet into 118" (.5 cm) slices. Roll both endstoward the center to form a double scroll. A strip of purplelaver may be placed on top of the fish slice before it i srolled.Q As a variation, the obove ingredients may be shreddedand sprinkled over the sushi rice (illus. 1,2,3). This i s theKansai (Osaka) version of Sushi Salad.flServe Sushi Salad in a bowl or wooden rice box.

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    'a -

    -c* 3

    SERVES d TOFU POCKET SUSHI (Inarizushi)W Cut the fried tofu pockets dia onolly into triangles (illus.1). Place in a pot with 1 and i!ing to a boil. Cook untilthe sauce i s completely reduced, and se t aside to cool.Dip both hands in 2. Stuff the tofu pockets about 415 fullwith sushi rice (illus. 2). Sprinkle a little toasted black sesameseed over the top (illus. 3). Eat with the pickled shreddedgin er root.917 T e square fried tofu pockets can be cut into squares orrectangles, or they con be rolled, for variation.Diced dried Chinese black mushroom (shiitake), dicedcarrot, and diced dried gourd shaving (kampy6) may becooked with 1 until the sauce i s reduced. Allow to cool, thenmix in with the sushi rice, along with some chopped gherkinrucumber.

    7 fa make shredded pickled ginger rbot: cut 213 Ib. (300g) fresh young ginger into thin slices, and blanch in boilingwater 1 minute. Remove and pickle in 3 tablespoons sugarand 3 tablespoons vinegar.

    10 square ried tofu pockets213 c. dashi

    2 T. rice vinegar4- 1 I2 c. sushi rice (approx.)2 t. toasted black sesame seedsshredded pickled sweet-sourginger root, a s desired

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    CRAB AND RICEMIX=UP SERVES 41 can crab meat1 T. ginger root juice2 bowls cooked rice2 dried Chinese block mushrooms4 bunches spinochd c. dash;

    1 1 t .solt2 t. light-colored soy saucepinch of MSG (optional)2- 112 oz. 175 g) artificial crab meat4 eggs

    I tir the ginger root juice into the crab meat (illus. 1 ) . Add somecold water to the cooked rice to separate the grains { i l lus . 2).Soak the mushrooms until soft ond cut into thick strips, Cut thespinach into pieces. Set oside.

    Bring 1 to a boil. Add the cooked rice and mushrooms and bringto a full second boil over high heot. Add the crab meat, the odficiolcrab meot (illus. 31, and the spinach. Cook briefly. Skim off thefoam, break in the eggs and turn off the heat. Serve.

    -n j u h , filter OR the liquid from ginger rootpuree.Purple laver shreds, fresh oysters, clams, fish fillets, and so forthmay be added to this dish according to individual preference.

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    SERVES 4 TEA RICEBroil the salted salmon until cooked through. Skin anddebone; tweeze out the fine bones. Tear into fine shreds(illus. 3).Place the cooked rice in a serving dish. Top with 1, the

    salted salmon shreds, and 2. Pour on the hot tea and serve.Pickled vegetables may be added on the side, or top withbonito shreds.ti Use either green or oolong tea.DThis dish is especially convenient if you shred fried saltedsalmon leftover from the previous meal.

    1-113 oz. (37 g) salted salmon(shiojake)4 c. cooked rice118 t. MSG (optional)116 t. salt1 T. white sesame seeds {illus. 1)4 stalks trefoil (mifsuba)purple laver (nori) shreds,as desired1 t. wasabi (Japanesehorseradish; illus. 2)3 c. tea

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    PORK CUTLET OVER LIII (Katsudon) SERVES 4I ut the lean pork into 318" ( 1 cm ) thick slices. Tenderizeby pounding with the dull edge of a cleaver or a meatmallet. Sprinkle on 118 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.Dip the pork slices in the ingredients in 1, in order (illus.1, 2, 3).Heat 3 cups cooking oil to 320F ( I60C). Deep-fry thepork slices over medium heat until golden brown on bothsides and cooked through. Remove from the oil, cut intopieces, and place some pork in each rice-filled bowl.Bring 2 to a boil. Add the green onion and egg. Whenthe egg is about half set, pour over the pork and rice. Sewe.

    14 oz. (400 g) lean pork112 c . flour1 egg, lightly beaten

    ' 1 314 c. fine bread crumbs4 c. cooked rice2

    1 - 112 c. dushi5 T. mirin (sweet rice wine)2-112 T, soy sauce1 t , sugarsliced green onion, greenportion only, as desired4 eggs, lightly beaten

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    SERVES 4 FRIED SHRIMP OVER L.-- ,lendon)S h e l l he shrimp, but leave the tail intact. Remove the tipsof the tails (illus. 1 ) and chop off the ends of the double tailshells (illus. 2). Scrape out the moisture contained in theshrimp tail with the dull edge of a knife. Make several gentleslashes i n the belly portion of the shrimp (illus. 3), lightlypound it straight, a n d set aside.I eat 2 cups cooking oil. Dip the shrimp in 1and deep-fry until crisp (see p. 60, Seafood Tempura). Separately dipthe green pepper, eggplant, and ta ro in 1 and fry until crisp(see p. 62, Vegetable Tempura).Put 1 cup of cooked rice into each individual bowl, andtop with the batter-fried shrimp and vegetables. Bring 2 toa boil, a n d pour some over each portion. Toss and eat.

    4 jumbo shrimp

    I12 c. low-gluten flour

    1 112 egg113 c. water (or ice water)4 slices green pepper4 slices eggplant4 slices taro (dasheen)4 c. cooked riceI T. mirin (sweet rice wine)p . I . sugar2-112 T. soy sauce1 - 112 c. dashi

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    Ct..,.mEN AND EGG OVER RICE (Oyuko Domburi)114 ~ b .120 g; net w+.) =hicken I I Cut the chicken meat into thick strips (illus. I ) , the onionleg (dark) meat into half-rings (illus. 2), and the large Chinese green onion1 onion into diagonal slices (illus. 3). Beat the eggs lightly and set2 large Chinese green onions4 egg=1- 112 c. doshi5 7. mirin1-112 t. sunar2 T. soy s&ca4 c. cooked rice

    aside.IIBring 1 to a boil. Add the chicken and onion, and cookuntil soft. Next add the beaten eggs and Iarge Chinesegreen onion. When the egg i s about half set, pour some ofthe contents over each portion of rice. Serve.

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    SERVES 4 --" OVER RICE [Gyudon)W Add 1 and the onion to a saucepan, and cook until th eonion i s soft. Next odd the sliced beef and green onion, andcook briefly. Pu t some of the contents over each rice-filledbowl, and top with some sliced pickled red ginger root (illus.3 ). Serve.

    213 Ib. (300 g) sliced beef(illus. 1 )1 t. each: sugar, soy sauce112 t. salt1-112 c. dushi5 T. mirin118 t. pepper1 -1 I2 c. sliced onion (illus. 2)4 green onions, diced4 c. cooked ricesliced pickled red ginger roo1(beni-shoga), as desired

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    SERVES 4113 c. red (adzuki, azukd beans Choose red beans that are large and have no foreign5 c. glutinous rice (sweet rice) matter mixed in (illus. 1). Add 2 cups water and bring toa boil. Discard the water {this i s to remove any bitterness).

    Add a fresh 3 cups of water and again bring to a boil. Turnthe heat to low and simmer about 30 minutes, until the beansbegin to split open (illus. 2). Remove the beans, drain well,and retoin the cooking liquid.4Wash the glutinous rice and soak in the liquid used to cookthe red beans (illus. 3) about 8 hours. Drain well, againretaining the liquid.Mix the red beans into the glutinous rice.Transfer to a cloth-lined steomer, and spread out evenly.Steam over high heat for about 50 minutes (pour the liquidfrom cooking the red beans over the rice as it steaming; pourin o ittle at a t ime each of 4 to 5 separate times). Serve.0 Red Bean Rice i s often served on holidays and atcelebrations; it symbolizes happiness and good fortune.

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    112 Ib. (225 g) ground beefI T. sugar1 4 T. soy sauce1 T. mirin (sweet rice wine)6 c. cooked rice5 eggsI 13 t , salt3 T. dashidash of sugar2-112 oz. 75 g) cooked peasshredded pickled red ginger root

    (beni-shoga), as desired

    - -3CTII1RICESERVES 4R Heat a frying pan and add 1 teaspoon cooking oil. Putin the ground beef (illus. 1 ) and stir-fry until the meatchanges color. Add 1 and continue to stir-fry until the saucei s reduced. Pour over the cooked rice.l eat the eggs lightly. Mix in 2 until well blended.Heat 4 tablespoons cooking oil in a frying pan, pour in

    the egg mixture, and stir-fry until the egg is set. Place onthe rice next to the ground beef. Scatter some cooked peas(iltus. 2) and shredded pickled red ginger root (illus. 3) overthe top and serve.XCooked dried Chinese black mushroom strips (see p. 69Basic Rolled Sushi) and shredded purple laver (nori) maybe added according to individual preference.

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    LITTLIE~0F.E'... . ...G RICESERVES 41 square fried tofu pocket114 cake konnyaku1 T. peas113 t. salt3 T. light-colored soy sauce1 T, rice wine3 c. dashishredded pickled red ginger root(beni-sh-ga), as desired

    y l ut the chicken, carrot, fried tofu pocket, and konnyakuof 1 (illus. 1 ) into julienne strips. Place in a bowl with thepeas. Mix in2 and marinate about 20minutes (illus. 2). Setaside.IIWash the rice, then add the dashi and all the otheringredients, and mix carefully until blended (illus. 3). Cookuntil done. Sprinkle on some shredded pickled red gingerand serve.

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    "'I/ ' 4h .'1'

    3 BALLS RICE BALLS (Onigiri)Divide the rice into 3 balls. 1 -1 I2 c . cooked riceRemove he seed from the pickled plum, and cut the plum 1 plumumeborhq

    into three pieces. 1 strip p r p l e laver (nori; 6"d Place one piece of pickled plum in each rice ball. Place 314" or 1 5 x 2 cm)a rice ball in your left hand, and press into on angle (illus. crushed overfurigake; illus. 11,2); place your right hand on top of the rice ball and flatten as desiredit down (illus. 3). Repeat this process until the rice bull i s block seeds, os desiredin the shape of a triangle. Encircle one of the balls with astrip of purple laver; roll the second ball in the crushed laver;and roll the last one in the block sesame seeds. Serve.... Rice bolls ca n also be made by pressing the rice into ricemolds available commercially.

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    4 packages (2 lb. 3 oz . or1000 g ) precooked udonnoodles (illus.1)4 dried Chinese blackmushrooms (shiitake)

    112 c. mushroom soak water2-112 T. sugar, 1 T. soy sauce112 fish cake (kamaboko)4 bunches s inach3 or. (80 gp chicken meat4 shrimp, 8 clams4 c. dashi, 114 t. saltc. each: mirin, light-coloredsoy sauce4 eggsseven-flavor seasonina Ishichimi-

    SERVES 41 oak the mushrooms until soft, then took in 1 until theflavors are well absorbed (about 8 minutes). Cut the fishcake at about a 15" angle, and alternate the knife backand forth while cutting to form a rippled rising sun pattern(illus. 2, 3). Blanch the s inach in boiling water about 30!econds. Squeeze out t e excess moisture and cut into1 - 114" (3 cm) lengths. Slice the chicken. Set aside.1 mmerse the precooked udon noodles in hot water for 30seconds, and transfer to a clay pot. Place the mushrooms,chicken slices, fish cake slices, shrimp, and clams on top ofthe noodles. Pour in 2 and bring to a boil over high heat.Pour in the egg and continue to cook until the egg i s abouthalf set. Add the spinach. Serve hot. A little seven-flavorseasoning may be sprinkled over the top, i f desired.Udon noodles are sold in fresh uncooked, dry, andcooked forms; choose the kind you prefer.

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    COLD NOODLlSSERVES 4Place t h ~omen (illus. 1) in boiling water. After it

    comes to a second boil, odd 1 cup of tap water and continueto cook about 1 minute, until the noodles are cookedthrough. Remove from the boiling water and place in a bowlof tap water to cool. Drain (illus. 2),'then add some crushedice, and chill in the refrigerator.W Cook the shrimp and remove the shetls. Cut the gherkincucumber into thin rounds. Beat the egg lightly, fry into athin egg "pancake", and cut into shreds. Set aside.Bring 1 to o boil and strain. This i s the broth for the cold

    noodles.R Place ice cubes (or ice water) in a transparent bowl. Addthe somen (illus. 3). Arrange the egg shreds, shrimp,cucumber, and fish cake neatly on top. Divide th e brothamong four small bowls, filling each about 315 full. Place2 in a smatl dish.IIAdd some of 2 into the noodle broth. Toke some noodlesand other ingredients and dip in the broth before eating.17Chinese vermicelli can be substituted for the somen, andthe other ingredients can be varied according to individualpreference.

    4 bunches somen (thin wheatnoodles)4 medium shrimp2 gherkin cucumbers

    2 eggs8 slices fish cake (kumaboko)4 c. crushed ice (approx.)1

    1 c. dash;114 c. each: mirin, light-coloredsoy sauce

    116 ox. (5 g) bonito shreds2 T. chopped green onion1 sheet purple laver, cut intothin strips

    1-112 T. ginger root puree

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    EMERALD BUCKWHEAT NOODLESSERVES 4

    C o o k he buckwheat noodles (illus. 1). Soak in 10 cups ice waterto cool. Drain well and place in a serving dish.Bring 1 to a boil, strain, and place in small bowls; this is thebroth for the noodles. Place each of the ingredients in 2 {freshquaileggs may also be added) in separate small dishes.

    Mix some of 2 into the broth, then dip the noodles and otherinqredients in the broth to eat.U How to Make Homemade Buckwheat Noodles ( S oba ) :Use ,buckwheat with brown kernels. Remove the husks and grind intoflour (illus. 2). Add 2 cups low-gluten flour, 118 teaspoon salt, and3 cups water to 10 cups buckwheat flour. Knead into a smoothdough that i s neither too soft nor too stiff (if the dough i s too dry,add more water; if too sticky, add dry flour). Leave undisturbedabout 1 hour. See page 7, How to Make Homemade UdonNoodles for instructions on rolling out the dough. Cut into 3116"( -2 crn) thin naodles.I- Buckwheat i s harvestedduring September and October, s o thesetwo months are the buckwheat noodle "season", when sobo s atits freshest and best, Soba comes in dry and fresh uncooked forms.It can be eaten cold or hot; try using it in recipes calling for udonnoodles, or for Chinese style noodles in broth.Wasabi (Japanese horseradish) powder {sold in boxes or cans;illus. 3) can be used to make wasabi dip. Add some cold or tepidwater to some wasabi powder to form a paste (use 3 tablespoonswasobi powder to 1-112 tablespoons water). Leave in a tightlysealed container for 10 minutes ond i t is ready for use.

    4 bunches buckwheat noodles (soba)1

    2

    1 c. dashi114 c. mirin (sweet rice wine)114 c. light-colored soy sauce116 oz. (5 g) bonito shreds1 c, chopped green onion118 t. wasabi (Japanese horseradish)112 c. Chinese white radish {daikon)puree1 sheet purple laver (nor;; cut into

    shreds)

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    SERVES 4 FRIED UDON NOODLESImmerse the precooked udon noodles in boiling waterbriefly and remove.C u t he onion into half-rings. Cut the cabbage heart intoslices (illus. I ) , then cu t all of the cabbage into shreds. Cutthe pork into shreds (illus. 2).Heot a frying pan and add 3 tablespoons oil. Stir-fry theonion, cabbage, and pork briefly. Add 1 and the noodles.Stir-fry until the sauce is reduced. Sprinkle on a little sesameoil and seven-flavor seasoning (illus. 3), and serve.

    4 packages (2 Ib. 3 or. or1000 g) precooked udonnoodles1 onion112 head cabbage (213 Ib. or300 g)113 Ib. (150 g) lean pork2 T. Chinese dark vinegar3 T. soy sauce, 1-113 T. sugar

    114+.MSG (optional)1-112 c. water, 118 t. peppersesame oil, as desiredseven-