Upload
brgshekhar
View
22
Download
1
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
1
LenzingWalking the Green WalkMichael Kininmonth
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
(Un)sustainability
The clothing and textile industry is huge
Worth over US$ 1 trillion world-wide
It contributes to 7% of world exports
It employs approximately 26 million people
However as an industry the clothing industry is locked into a cycle of unsustainability
The relationship between productivity (added value) and resourceuse has entered into a chronic and unsustainable pattern
2
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Definition of Sustainability
“Corporate Sustainability is a business approach that creates long-
term shareholder value by embracing opportunities and managing
risks deriving from economic, environmental and social
developments.“ (DJSI, business oriented)
“..development meeting the needs of the present without
compromising the capacity of future generations to meet their own
needs.“ (Brundtland, society oriented)
“improved quality of life without compromising the quality of life of
future generations“ (UK government)
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Definition of Sustainability
This demands an integrated management of three dimensions
3
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Triple Bottom Line
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Lenzing’s Approach
Sustainability is the cornerstone of Lenzing’s philosophy
We create our products from renewable raw materials
We work towards ecological production and energy generation
Our processes are geared to protecting the environment
We strive to produce ecologically sustainable and commercially
successful products
Products that are safe to use and safe to dispose of
4
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Transforming philosophy into technology
Use wood from sustainably managed forests
Improve resource efficiency of production processes (raw materials,
chemicals, energy, water)
Avoid or reduce the use of harmful chemicals (chlorine compounds,
APEO’s, …)
Close the loops of industrial processes by appropriate recovery and
recycling technologies (acetic acid, xylose, sodium sulphate,…)
Minimize pollution of air, water & soil by efficient treatment systems
Evaluate the environmental footprint of products and processes as a
basis for continuous improvement
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Talking the Green Talk
5
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Talking the Green Talk
1995
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
The Nature of Excellence
6
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Talking the Green Talk
1997
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Lyocell Lifecycle
7
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Talking the Green Talk
2000
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
The Natural Feeling
8
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Talking the Green Talk
2003
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Experience More – More Natural
9
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Talking the Green Talk
2007
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Botanic Principles
10
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Talking the Green Talk
2008
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Leading Fiber Innovation
11
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Identity crisis?
“Yes I’ve been using TENCEL………it’s a type of nylon’”
Identity crisis ………less so within the textile trade
Identity crisis ……….far more so with consumers
Unlike certain textile fibres
• Cotton – absorbent, comfortable
• Linen – cool
• Wool – warm
• Polyester – easy care
• Cashmere – soft
MMC fibres do not have a profile within the consumer’s psyche
So how would I sum up man-made cellulosic fibres?
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Identity crisis?
12
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Identity crisis?
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Identity crisis?
13
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Identity crisis?
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Lenzing Fibers
14
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Areas of Application for Lenzing Fibers
Lenzing Viscose® - Sets the Industry StandardClothing made of woven textiles and knitwear
Lenzing FR® - The Heat Protection FiberFlame-resistant protective clothing
Lenzing Modal ® - Makes the World a Softer PlaceHome Textiles terry cloth productsClothing underwear
TENCEL® - The New Age FiberWoven / knitFormal / casualUnderwear / outerwear
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
TENCEL®
Comfort
Drape
Performance
Environment
Softness
Silk, Modal, Cupro ,Microfibres , Cotton Natural fibres
Cellulosics
CuproModal
ViscoseSilk
Synthetics
Recycled PEOrganic cotton
Hemp
TENCEL® Footprint
15
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
TENCEL®
Comfort
Drape
Performance
Environment
Softness
Silk, Modal, Cupro ,Microfibres , Cotton Natural fibres
Cellulosics
CuproModal
ViscoseSilk
Synthetics
Recycled PEOrganic cotton
Hemp
TENCEL® Footprint
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Nature’s cycle
16
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Why cellulose?
Most important natural building block
Available in abundance
Cellulose is generated by photosynthesisconsumes CO2
Biodegradable / compostable
Renewable
Sustainable
Recyclable
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Man-made cellulosics
Lenzing fibers use cellulose from trees
as their raw material
Wood is a renewable resource
Trees grow on marginal land unsuitable
for food crops
Lenzing only uses raw material from
sustainable sources which are certified
by an independent certifying bodies
FSC
PEFC
SFI
CSA
17
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Wood as a raw material
Storageof the forest’s carbon right through the life of the products and beyond, through recycling
Substitutionfor other products which produce higher CO2 emissions
Recoveryof the energy stored in the wood at the end of the products’ life by combustion as a substitute for fossil fuels
Renewalof the forests, as timber use stimulates the expansion of forests, increasing the carbon sink effect and sequestering more CO2 from the atmosphere
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Lenzing’s “Bio-refinery”
Efficient use of resourcesWood is the raw material and The fuel for the integrated pulp and fiber production
18
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Modal technology
100% beech wood-based fibre - trees from middle-European forests
PEFC chain of custody certified
Integrated pulp and fibre production on Lenzing site
By products managed• bark and liquors burnt to generate power• wood sugar xylose – used for manufacture of Xylitol• sodium sulphate – used in manufacture of washing powder• acetic acid – medical and food production
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Lyocell technology
Purest cellulosic fibre available
Wood pulp + water + solvent - input
TENCEL® fibre + water + solvent - output• solvent used is non-toxic (99.7% recycled)
Based on eucalyptus trees (FSC certified forestry and pulp production)
Closed-loop technology
19
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Questions
What is the impact of fibres on global problems such as …
• Global warming
• Depletion of limited resources
• Impact on human health
• Impairment of ecosystems
Is the environmental impact of fibres relevant on a global scale ?
Do natural fibers show a better eco footprint than man-made fibres ?
Can we measure the environmental footprint of Lenzing’s fibres in
direct comparison to cotton and synthetic fibres ?
The best tool used to answer these questions is a Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) acc. to ISO 14040 ff
Life Cycle Assessment of Man-made cellulose fibres:Modal and TencelLi Shen and Dr. Martin PatelDepartment of Science, Technology and Society (STS)Copernicus InstituteUtrecht University
20
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
LCA of fibres
Fibres are raw materials for textile and nonwoven products
There are huge differences in usage patterns and lifetime
Fibre blends are very common
A comparative cradle-to-grave assessment of different fibre
materials on the basis of the same final product is difficult and often
not realistic (PP shirt?)
To compare the LCA aspects of different fibre materials it is useful,
to take a “cradle-to-factory-gate” approach and then include “final-
post-consumer-disposal”
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Life cycle of man-made cellulosics
Photo-synthesis
ForestryDisposal
Pulpproduction
Fibreproduction
Use
CO2H2O
GlobalTextile Industry
21
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
“Cradle-to-factory-gate” boundaries
Photo-synthesis
ForestryDisposal
Pulpproduction
Fibreproduction
Use
CO2H2O
GlobalTextile Industry
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Boundaries – energy recovery
Photo-synthesis
ForestryDisposal
Pulpproduction
Fibreproduction
Use
CO2H2O
GlobalTextile Industry
22
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
What are the environmental impacts?
Energy
Global Warming
Land use
Water use
CML environmental indicators – abiotic depletion– human toxicity– fresh water eco-toxicity– terrestrial eco-toxicity– photochemical oxidation– acidification– eutrophication
12/03/2009 | 44 | Speaker: ####PET (W
.Europe)
PP (W.Europe)
Cotton (U
S&CN)
Tencel, Austria
Lenzing Modal
Tencel, Austria
, 2012-20
0
20
40
60
80
100
78
56
34
26
16 13
Net Non-Renewable Energy Use NREU (GJ/t fibre)
Cotton
23
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Energy Use - Lenzing
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Energy Use - Lenzing
24
12/03/2009 | 47 | Speaker: ####PET (W
.Europe)
PP (W.Europe)
Cotton (US&CN)
Tencel, Austri
a
Tencel, Austri
a, 2012
Lenzing Modal
-1
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
-0.3
3.1
5.5
4.2
2.1
1.1 0.9
Net global warming potential GWP (t CO2 eq./t fibre)GHG emissions - tonnes CO2 / tonne
Cotton
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
CO2 sequestered in trees
25
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Land Usage (Utrecht LCA)
Cotton US : 0,88 ha/t
Cotton China : 0,77 ha/t
Cotton average US &China : 0,82 ha/t
Cotton World average : 1,06 ha/t
Lenzing Modal : 0,58 ha/t
TENCEL® (Austria) : 0,21 ha/t
Cotton needs about 4-5 times more land per tonne of fibre than
eucalyptus-based TENCEL®
Further to this trees are grown on what is known as marginal land
whereas cotton is grown on agricultural land
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Land Usage
26
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Water consumption (Utrecht LCA)
Pulp and fiber production are known to be water intensive
The water consumption in cotton is frequently under-rated
There is no artificial irrigation for trees
Pulp and fibre production requires water for processing and cooling
The comparative water consumption figures for our fibers are :
Lenzing Modal : 494 m³/t, TENCEL® (Austria) : 266 m³/t
This represents about 10 - 20 times less water than cotton
Previously cotton data was taken from a publication which reported
up to 29,000 m³/t consumed for cotton in Sudan
This is roughly 100 times more than for TENCEL®
The recent lower figures for cotton irrigation result from improved
irrigation practices, higher yields (GMO) and the allocation of ~15%
of the water consumption to the by-product cotton seed
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Water usage
27
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
What are the CML factors?
Abiotic depletionuse of non-renewable resources (oil, natural gas, coal etc.)
Human toxicityimpact on human health
Fresh water eco-toxicitywater pollution
Terrestrial eco-toxicitysoil pollution
Photochemical oxidationozone generation, air pollution, summer smog
Acidificationair, water and soil, acid rain
Eutrophicationfertiliser effects (nitrogen, phosphorus) algae bloom,de-oxygenation
[CML stands for “Centrum voor Milieuwetenschappen, Leiden University / Netherlands)]
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
28
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Summary of LCA
Oil based fibres require more non-renewable energy and generate more greenhouse gases than the other fibres
Cotton and PLA both need arable land for their production
PLA cannot be readily compared with the other fibres because of the absence of published information on the CML indicators
Cotton stands out because of the very significant land and wateruse and a significantly higher impact in terms of both aquatic and terrestrial toxicity
Overall, Lenzing Fibers have an extremely favourable eco profile
For a full copy of the LCA please contact me at:
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Global Relevance
Global cotton production* accounts for:
16% of the global impact on freshwater aquatic ecotoxicity
11% of the global impact on terrestrial ecotoxicity
2.6% of the global water use**
Global polyester fiber production*** accounts for :
0.12% of the global greenhouse gas emission
0.31% of the global abiotic depletion
*) Based on the global impact and production figures from 1995 and calculated from present consumptionand emission rates of US and Chinese cotton production assuming that this is representative for theglobal cotton production in 1995**) Source : A. Chapagain, A. Hoekstra, et al. 2006***) calculated from present consumption and emission rates of WE producers and 1995 global production
29
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Conclusions
Lenzing man-made cellulosic fibers offer a sustainable solution for the needs of the Textile Industry
With pressure on oil reserves, water supplies and arable land, cellulose based man made fibres offer an excellent option to help conserve the planet’s resources
Alternative staple fibers are dependent on polymers from oil, orrequire arable land and significant water use for their feedstock
Extensive experience and best practice in manufacturing mean that Lenzing can offer a sustainable option
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Conclusions - beyond organic?
Ultimately Lenzing cellulosic fibres offer a convincing eco-footprint:
• No pesticides
• No herbicides
• No irrigation
• Use of low grade land
• No GMO
• Natural, renewable and recyclable raw material
30
INTERSTOFF HKLENZING
2009 MARCH
Thank You
THE GREEN EVENT • September 18-19, 2008 The Millennium Broadway Hotel and Hudson Theatre New York City
Thank you for your attention
Michael Kininmonth – Lenzing Fibers