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1 Lenzing Walking the Green Walk Michael Kininmonth INTERSTOFF HK LENZING 2009 MARCH (Un)sustainability The clothing and textile industry is huge Worth over US$ 1 trillion world-wide It contributes to 7% of world exports It employs approximately 26 million people However as an industry the clothing industry is locked into a cycle of unsustainability The relationship between productivity (added value) and resource use has entered into a chronic and unsustainable pattern

Interstoff Lenzing

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LenzingWalking the Green WalkMichael Kininmonth

INTERSTOFF HKLENZING

2009 MARCH

(Un)sustainability

The clothing and textile industry is huge

Worth over US$ 1 trillion world-wide

It contributes to 7% of world exports

It employs approximately 26 million people

However as an industry the clothing industry is locked into a cycle of unsustainability

The relationship between productivity (added value) and resourceuse has entered into a chronic and unsustainable pattern

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Definition of Sustainability

“Corporate Sustainability is a business approach that creates long-

term shareholder value by embracing opportunities and managing

risks deriving from economic, environmental and social

developments.“ (DJSI, business oriented)

“..development meeting the needs of the present without

compromising the capacity of future generations to meet their own

needs.“ (Brundtland, society oriented)

“improved quality of life without compromising the quality of life of

future generations“ (UK government)

INTERSTOFF HKLENZING

2009 MARCH

Definition of Sustainability

This demands an integrated management of three dimensions

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Triple Bottom Line

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Lenzing’s Approach

Sustainability is the cornerstone of Lenzing’s philosophy

We create our products from renewable raw materials

We work towards ecological production and energy generation

Our processes are geared to protecting the environment

We strive to produce ecologically sustainable and commercially

successful products

Products that are safe to use and safe to dispose of

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Transforming philosophy into technology

Use wood from sustainably managed forests

Improve resource efficiency of production processes (raw materials,

chemicals, energy, water)

Avoid or reduce the use of harmful chemicals (chlorine compounds,

APEO’s, …)

Close the loops of industrial processes by appropriate recovery and

recycling technologies (acetic acid, xylose, sodium sulphate,…)

Minimize pollution of air, water & soil by efficient treatment systems

Evaluate the environmental footprint of products and processes as a

basis for continuous improvement

INTERSTOFF HKLENZING

2009 MARCH

Talking the Green Talk

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Talking the Green Talk

1995

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The Nature of Excellence

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Talking the Green Talk

1997

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Lyocell Lifecycle

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Talking the Green Talk

2000

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The Natural Feeling

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Talking the Green Talk

2003

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2009 MARCH

Experience More – More Natural

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Talking the Green Talk

2007

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Botanic Principles

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Talking the Green Talk

2008

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Leading Fiber Innovation

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Identity crisis?

“Yes I’ve been using TENCEL………it’s a type of nylon’”

Identity crisis ………less so within the textile trade

Identity crisis ……….far more so with consumers

Unlike certain textile fibres

• Cotton – absorbent, comfortable

• Linen – cool

• Wool – warm

• Polyester – easy care

• Cashmere – soft

MMC fibres do not have a profile within the consumer’s psyche

So how would I sum up man-made cellulosic fibres?

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2009 MARCH

Identity crisis?

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Identity crisis?

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2009 MARCH

Identity crisis?

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Identity crisis?

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2009 MARCH

Lenzing Fibers

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Areas of Application for Lenzing Fibers

Lenzing Viscose® - Sets the Industry StandardClothing made of woven textiles and knitwear

Lenzing FR® - The Heat Protection FiberFlame-resistant protective clothing

Lenzing Modal ® - Makes the World a Softer PlaceHome Textiles terry cloth productsClothing underwear

TENCEL® - The New Age FiberWoven / knitFormal / casualUnderwear / outerwear

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2009 MARCH

TENCEL®

Comfort

Drape

Performance

Environment

Softness

Silk, Modal, Cupro ,Microfibres , Cotton Natural fibres

Cellulosics

CuproModal

ViscoseSilk

Synthetics

Recycled PEOrganic cotton

Hemp

TENCEL® Footprint

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TENCEL®

Comfort

Drape

Performance

Environment

Softness

Silk, Modal, Cupro ,Microfibres , Cotton Natural fibres

Cellulosics

CuproModal

ViscoseSilk

Synthetics

Recycled PEOrganic cotton

Hemp

TENCEL® Footprint

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2009 MARCH

Nature’s cycle

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Why cellulose?

Most important natural building block

Available in abundance

Cellulose is generated by photosynthesisconsumes CO2

Biodegradable / compostable

Renewable

Sustainable

Recyclable

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2009 MARCH

Man-made cellulosics

Lenzing fibers use cellulose from trees

as their raw material

Wood is a renewable resource

Trees grow on marginal land unsuitable

for food crops

Lenzing only uses raw material from

sustainable sources which are certified

by an independent certifying bodies

FSC

PEFC

SFI

CSA

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Wood as a raw material

Storageof the forest’s carbon right through the life of the products and beyond, through recycling

Substitutionfor other products which produce higher CO2 emissions

Recoveryof the energy stored in the wood at the end of the products’ life by combustion as a substitute for fossil fuels

Renewalof the forests, as timber use stimulates the expansion of forests, increasing the carbon sink effect and sequestering more CO2 from the atmosphere

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2009 MARCH

Lenzing’s “Bio-refinery”

Efficient use of resourcesWood is the raw material and The fuel for the integrated pulp and fiber production

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Modal technology

100% beech wood-based fibre - trees from middle-European forests

PEFC chain of custody certified

Integrated pulp and fibre production on Lenzing site

By products managed• bark and liquors burnt to generate power• wood sugar xylose – used for manufacture of Xylitol• sodium sulphate – used in manufacture of washing powder• acetic acid – medical and food production

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2009 MARCH

Lyocell technology

Purest cellulosic fibre available

Wood pulp + water + solvent - input

TENCEL® fibre + water + solvent - output• solvent used is non-toxic (99.7% recycled)

Based on eucalyptus trees (FSC certified forestry and pulp production)

Closed-loop technology

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Questions

What is the impact of fibres on global problems such as …

• Global warming

• Depletion of limited resources

• Impact on human health

• Impairment of ecosystems

Is the environmental impact of fibres relevant on a global scale ?

Do natural fibers show a better eco footprint than man-made fibres ?

Can we measure the environmental footprint of Lenzing’s fibres in

direct comparison to cotton and synthetic fibres ?

The best tool used to answer these questions is a Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) acc. to ISO 14040 ff

Life Cycle Assessment of Man-made cellulose fibres:Modal and TencelLi Shen and Dr. Martin PatelDepartment of Science, Technology and Society (STS)Copernicus InstituteUtrecht University

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LCA of fibres

Fibres are raw materials for textile and nonwoven products

There are huge differences in usage patterns and lifetime

Fibre blends are very common

A comparative cradle-to-grave assessment of different fibre

materials on the basis of the same final product is difficult and often

not realistic (PP shirt?)

To compare the LCA aspects of different fibre materials it is useful,

to take a “cradle-to-factory-gate” approach and then include “final-

post-consumer-disposal”

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2009 MARCH

Life cycle of man-made cellulosics

Photo-synthesis

ForestryDisposal

Pulpproduction

Fibreproduction

Use

CO2H2O

GlobalTextile Industry

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“Cradle-to-factory-gate” boundaries

Photo-synthesis

ForestryDisposal

Pulpproduction

Fibreproduction

Use

CO2H2O

GlobalTextile Industry

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Boundaries – energy recovery

Photo-synthesis

ForestryDisposal

Pulpproduction

Fibreproduction

Use

CO2H2O

GlobalTextile Industry

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What are the environmental impacts?

Energy

Global Warming

Land use

Water use

CML environmental indicators – abiotic depletion– human toxicity– fresh water eco-toxicity– terrestrial eco-toxicity– photochemical oxidation– acidification– eutrophication

12/03/2009 | 44 | Speaker: ####PET (W

.Europe)

PP (W.Europe)

Cotton (U

S&CN)

Tencel, Austria

Lenzing Modal

Tencel, Austria

, 2012-20

0

20

40

60

80

100

78

56

34

26

16 13

Net Non-Renewable Energy Use NREU (GJ/t fibre)

Cotton

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Energy Use - Lenzing

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Energy Use - Lenzing

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12/03/2009 | 47 | Speaker: ####PET (W

.Europe)

PP (W.Europe)

Cotton (US&CN)

Tencel, Austri

a

Tencel, Austri

a, 2012

Lenzing Modal

-1

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

-0.3

3.1

5.5

4.2

2.1

1.1 0.9

Net global warming potential GWP (t CO2 eq./t fibre)GHG emissions - tonnes CO2 / tonne

Cotton

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CO2 sequestered in trees

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Land Usage (Utrecht LCA)

Cotton US : 0,88 ha/t

Cotton China : 0,77 ha/t

Cotton average US &China : 0,82 ha/t

Cotton World average : 1,06 ha/t

Lenzing Modal : 0,58 ha/t

TENCEL® (Austria) : 0,21 ha/t

Cotton needs about 4-5 times more land per tonne of fibre than

eucalyptus-based TENCEL®

Further to this trees are grown on what is known as marginal land

whereas cotton is grown on agricultural land

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Land Usage

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Water consumption (Utrecht LCA)

Pulp and fiber production are known to be water intensive

The water consumption in cotton is frequently under-rated

There is no artificial irrigation for trees

Pulp and fibre production requires water for processing and cooling

The comparative water consumption figures for our fibers are :

Lenzing Modal : 494 m³/t, TENCEL® (Austria) : 266 m³/t

This represents about 10 - 20 times less water than cotton

Previously cotton data was taken from a publication which reported

up to 29,000 m³/t consumed for cotton in Sudan

This is roughly 100 times more than for TENCEL®

The recent lower figures for cotton irrigation result from improved

irrigation practices, higher yields (GMO) and the allocation of ~15%

of the water consumption to the by-product cotton seed

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Water usage

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What are the CML factors?

Abiotic depletionuse of non-renewable resources (oil, natural gas, coal etc.)

Human toxicityimpact on human health

Fresh water eco-toxicitywater pollution

Terrestrial eco-toxicitysoil pollution

Photochemical oxidationozone generation, air pollution, summer smog

Acidificationair, water and soil, acid rain

Eutrophicationfertiliser effects (nitrogen, phosphorus) algae bloom,de-oxygenation

[CML stands for “Centrum voor Milieuwetenschappen, Leiden University / Netherlands)]

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Summary of LCA

Oil based fibres require more non-renewable energy and generate more greenhouse gases than the other fibres

Cotton and PLA both need arable land for their production

PLA cannot be readily compared with the other fibres because of the absence of published information on the CML indicators

Cotton stands out because of the very significant land and wateruse and a significantly higher impact in terms of both aquatic and terrestrial toxicity

Overall, Lenzing Fibers have an extremely favourable eco profile

For a full copy of the LCA please contact me at:

[email protected]

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2009 MARCH

Global Relevance

Global cotton production* accounts for:

16% of the global impact on freshwater aquatic ecotoxicity

11% of the global impact on terrestrial ecotoxicity

2.6% of the global water use**

Global polyester fiber production*** accounts for :

0.12% of the global greenhouse gas emission

0.31% of the global abiotic depletion

*) Based on the global impact and production figures from 1995 and calculated from present consumptionand emission rates of US and Chinese cotton production assuming that this is representative for theglobal cotton production in 1995**) Source : A. Chapagain, A. Hoekstra, et al. 2006***) calculated from present consumption and emission rates of WE producers and 1995 global production

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Conclusions

Lenzing man-made cellulosic fibers offer a sustainable solution for the needs of the Textile Industry

With pressure on oil reserves, water supplies and arable land, cellulose based man made fibres offer an excellent option to help conserve the planet’s resources

Alternative staple fibers are dependent on polymers from oil, orrequire arable land and significant water use for their feedstock

Extensive experience and best practice in manufacturing mean that Lenzing can offer a sustainable option

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2009 MARCH

Conclusions - beyond organic?

Ultimately Lenzing cellulosic fibres offer a convincing eco-footprint:

• No pesticides

• No herbicides

• No irrigation

• Use of low grade land

• No GMO

• Natural, renewable and recyclable raw material

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Thank You

THE GREEN EVENT • September 18-19, 2008 The Millennium Broadway Hotel and Hudson Theatre New York City

Thank you for your attention

Michael Kininmonth – Lenzing Fibers