I Spy Quilt

instructables

I Spy Quilt

by MarlenaT

Dropping temperatures means kids are spending a lotmore time indoors. If you're looking for ways to keepthe kiddos warm and provide some fun activities all inone, this project has you "covered".

I Spy Quilts are quilts made with pictorial or noveltyquilting fabrics. The reason I am calling this particular“I Spy” quilt "In-Jeaneous" is because it utilizesrecycled blue jeans and there are indoor activities todo with the quilt. I’ve compiled a list of games to play

so it is sure to entertain both young and old for hours.

Don't have any denim jeans to recycle? No problem!You can also make this quilt by using a purchaseddenim fabric alternative.

This pattern is beginner friendly and you can sew iton a standard sewing machine, so don't hesitate to trythe project even if it is your very first quilt.

I Spy Quilt: Page 1

I Spy Quilt: Page 2

Step 1: Gather Materials and Tools

MATERIALS:

Denim Blue Jeans (recycled) OR pre-washed Denim FabricAssorted Novelty Fabric "Charms" 5"x 5" (You can purchase these pre-cut or you can cut yourown).Batting Low Loft cut into 4"x 4" squares (Only needed if you are using light weight denim fabric).Quilting Thread(your choice of color)Temporary Fabric AdhesiveSpray StarchEmbroidery Stabilizer (Optional - only needed if you elect to machine embroidery appliques to theback of your quilt.)

* NOTE: The quantity of recycled jeans, denim fabric, charm squares, batting, and binding fabric will depend onthe size of the quilt you elect to make. See the "Determine Size of Quilt" section in this Instructables project fordirections on sizing your quilt.

TOOLS:

Cutting MattRotary CutterCircle Cutting Tools (CHOOSE ONE OPTION)

OPTION A:OLFA CMP-3 Rotary Cutter - (recommended but not required)OPTION B: June Taylor Charming Circles Ruler, fabric marker, and rotary cutter.OPTION C: 7" Cardboard Circle Template (made by yourself), fabric marker, andscissors.

Fiskars Easy Action Rag Quilt Scissors– (recommended but not required)ScissorsSewing MachineIron and ironing board OR ironing padQuilting PinsDenim Needle for Sewing MachineMeasuring Tape for measuring your bedStraight Edge Ruler to use with rotary cutter and mat.Embroidery Machine(Optional) needed only if you chose to machine applique some of your blocks.Applique Scissors(Optional) needed onlyif you choose to add applique to your quilt.Quilter's Perfect Klipit (Optional) personal preference to aid in binding the quilt (if you have chosento bind it.)Quilt Binding Tool(Optional) not required but makes binding simple.

I Spy Quilt: Page 3

Step 2: Determine the Size of Your Quilt

If you are sewing a quilt for a specific bed, it is best tomeasure the width of your mattress and add theamount of overhang you want on each side and thenmeasure the length of your mattress and add theamount of overhang you want on the end. These aretarget sizes.

This quilt uses 5"x5" square "charms" that fit insidethe 7" denim circles so the finished square will equal5"x5". If your block calculations don't work out quite

right, just round up. I chose to make a quilt bigenough for my son's twin sized bed. My calculationsare 65" (width of quilt) divided by 5" (finished square)= 13 blocks and 88" (length of quilt) divided by 5"(finished square) = 17.6, which would round up to 18.

So 13 x 18 = 234 charm squares and 234 denimcircles. My layout is 13 blocks wide by 18 blockslong. My finished quilt measures 65"x90”.

I Spy Quilt: Page 4

Step 3: Cut Denim Circles

Now that you have calculated the number of 5"x5" squares needed for your desired quilt size, start by cutting yourrecycled denim jeans or purchased denim fabric into the same number of 7" diameter circles. There are severalmethods to choose from in cutting the circles.

OPTION A: Use the OLFA CMP-3 Circle Cutter. This is the method I chose to use.Directions for cutting the circles using the OLFA CMP-3 Rotary Circle Cutter: Set thecompass point to 3.5² radius so that it will make a 7” diameter circle. Remove the capfrom the compass point and deactivate the safety on the blade. Place denim ontocutting mat and use the tool to cut your circle. TIP: spraying temporary fabric adhesiveonto the back side of the denim will keep your denim from moving while you are cuttingyour circles.

OPTION B: June Taylor Charming Circles Ruler.OPTION C: Use a 7" diameter circle template made out of cardboard and a marker to trace thecircle onto your denim. Then, cut the circle out with scissors.

IF YOU ARE USING RECYCLED JEANS: The easiest way I found to cut them is to cut up the entire inseam, fromthe bottom hem of one pants leg, up to the crotch, and down again to the bottom hem of the other pants leg. Next,cut off each pants leg, place each leg onto your cutting board, and proceed with cutting the 7" circle using OptionA, B, or C.

IF YOU ARE USING PURCHASED DENIM FABRIC: Make sure to pre-wash your fabric first. Fold your fabric inhalf (matching your selvage edges). Use an erasable marker to draw a vertical line 4” from the right edge of yourfolded fabric and then every 7.5” to use as guide lines for cutting the circles. Next, draw a horizontal line across thebottom at 3 1/2 inches from the selvage edge. These lines create an intersection for the first circle cut. You cannow cut 3 sets of circles per line by using the lines as a guide for your centers of your circles.. If the circles are cutclose enough, you can get three circles from each row of the doubled fabric (yielding a total of 6 circles per row).Use Option A, B, or C to cut the amount of circles you need for your quilt size.

I Spy Quilt: Page 5

I Spy Quilt: Page 6

Step 4: Cut 5” X 5” Fabric Blocks

Cutting your own 5” x 5” fabric blocks is optionalbecause pre-cut charm packs are available online orat your local quilt shop to purchase.

For my quilt, I elected to purchase 100 pre-cutcharms from a couple of different sellers to give me abetter variety and then I utilized a bunch of noveltyfabrics I had on hand in my craft stash to make up theremaining blocks required.

If you are choosing to cut your own blocks, the use ofa cutting template will make the job much easier andquicker. Many quilters use cardboard templates, butpreventing an accidental cut of your template is trickybusiness. I decided to ask my husband to cut a 5” x

5” Plexiglas square for me to use as a windowtemplate and it works great! Pre-made 5" squarerulers are also sold at craft stores.

To cut your blocks, place the fabric right side up ontop of the cutting mat and center the template on topof the fabric where you want to cut your block. Next,use a rotary cutter to cut the fabric by using the edgesof the template as a guide. This method is a hugetime saver and results in absolutely perfect cuts.

Another great advantage in using a window templatetool is that it allows your to “fussy cut” your blockswith ease because you can view through the templateto center your images to your liking before you cut.

I Spy Quilt: Page 7

Step 5: Sew Rows: Basting Method

There are two methods to choose from in sewing yourrows. This Instructable will show both methods.

BASTING METHOD

If you are using heavy or recycled denim, place a 7"Circle right side down onto table or mat, spray thewrong side of the 5" square lightly with temporaryfabric adhesive and press it into the center of thedenim circle (repeating until you have each circle andcharm matched and basted together).

If you are using light weight denim fabric, place a 7"Circle right side down onto table or mat, spray battingsquare lightly with temporary fabric adhesive andpress the 4" batting square into the center of thedenim circle (repeating until you have each circle andbatting square matched and basted together). Next,baste your 5" charm square on top of the battingsquare with right side up (repeating until you have

each circle, batting square, and charm square bastedtogether).

Sew Rows Together to equate to the numbers youcalculated in step 2. My quilt is 18 rows of 13 blocksso I will sew 18 rows with 13 blocks and then attacheach of the 18 rows together.

Make your rows. Take two basted circles and placethem with the right sides of the denim circlestogether. Line them up by matching the corners/pointsof the squares together. Use the outer edge of the 5"square charm piece as your sewing line and sew withmachine quilting thread making sure to back stitch atboth ends of the blocks and reinforce at the corners.Proceed by adding and stitching circles together tobuild your row.

Once each row is stitched, press the seamallowances open. You can use an iron and steam,

and it is also very helpful to use spray starch as wellto make the flaps lay nice and flat and reduce thebulk in your seam allowances.

I Spy Quilt: Page 8

I Spy Quilt: Page 9

Step 6: Sew Rows: Marking Method

MARKING METHOD

In this method, we will insert the fabric squares and/orbatting AFTER all of the rows (denim circles) aresewn and joined together. The only difference here isthat we will mark the squares into the center of thecircles and use the markings for our sewing lines. I'vedemonstrated both methods with photos in thisInstructable and found that method B is the one Iprefer.

Place a 7" circle right side down onto table or mat,mark a 5" square on the center of the wrong side ofthe 7" circle. Match each circle to the next circle(lining up the lines).

Sew the circles together to equal the total neededthat you calculated in step 2. My quilt is 18 rows of 13blocks so I will sew 18 rows with 13 blocks and thenattach each of the 18 rows together.

Take two circles and place them with the right sidesof the denim circles together. Line them up bymatching the corners/points of the marked linestogether. Sew with machine quilting thread makingsure to back stitch at both ends of the blocks andreinforce at the corners. Proceed by adding andstitching circles together to build your row. Once eachrow is stitched, press the seam allowances open. Youcan use an iron and steam, and it is also very helpfulto use spray starch as well to make the flaps lay niceand flat and reduce the bulk in your seam allowances.

I Spy Quilt: Page 10


Step 7: Attach Rows Together

Secure one row to another. Line one row up withanother row using the same method we utilized tobuild the initial rows. Place the right side of the denimcircle together and pin carefully (making sure youhave everything lined up perfectly). Sew all the wayacross the top of the blocks, block by block and thiswill now yield two rows sewn together. Next, pressthe seam that goes between the rows open using thesame iron and spray starch method you used whenbuilding the rows. Join the other rows in exactly thesame fashion until you have all of your quilt rowscompletely sewn together. Press and starch theremaining flaps down all the way around theperimeter of the quilt.

NOTE: If you used Option B of sewing your rows, you

will baste and pin the fabric squares (and batting ifyou chose to use batting) in behind the flaps into thefront of the quilt at the end after all rows are sewn andattached together. I found it easiest to add my fabricsquares one row at a time during the flap sew downprocess (Step 9 of this Instructable). This methodreduced the number of pins in my quilt that had atendency to poke me as I was sewing the flaps down.Rolling the quilt during the flap sew down processalso helped keep the fabric squares nice and taughtas the quilt is moved around and in and out of thesewing machine. I chose to sew my flaps down after Iassembled all of the rows together but another optionis to sew the flaps down on each row before you sewthe rows together.



Step 8: Applique (Optional)

This is a really special quilt for my son so I decided to embroidery machine applique his name into the back of thequilt. I elected to place the name into the center of the last row on the back side of the quilt. You may choose toplace applique anywhere into the backside of your quilt if you desire. You will just place it into the row or rowswhere you want it to go.

I happen to own a really nice embroidery machine so I used it to sew my applique. Applique is optional and if youdo not have an embroidery machine, applique can be done by hand by cutting out your design and using handembroidery or your standard sewing machine to finish. You can also decide not to add any applique at all. Since Iused my embroidery machine, this Instructable will explain that method.

1. Load the digital applique design into your embroidery machine.2. Hoop the block (be sure to stabilize it with your stabilizer).3. Stitch the placement stitches.4. Place your applique fabric on top of the block. (TIP: Use temporary adhesive to hold fabric in place).5. Sew your tacking stitches.6. Remove hoop from the machine (leaving fabrics in the hoop) and cut away the excess applique

fabric).7. Put the hoop back into the machine and finish the stitching. Your machine will run a final tacking

stitch and then proceed to the outline stitch.8. Remove from your machine, remove block from hoop, and trim away the excess stabilizer from the

back side.




Step 9: Stitch Flaps Down

Now it’s time to stitch the flaps down (unless youchose the quilt as you go method and sewed the flapsdown before you attached the rows together). Use a3/8" seam allowance here if you desire a frayed edgeeffect on your quilt. Alternatively, use a decoratestitch here (along the outer edge of the flaps) if youprefer to have a more tailored effect.

If you have previously joined the rows withoutstitching the flaps down, I have found that the easiestway to sew this step is to sew in a figure eightpattern. I used my standard sewing machine to sewthe flaps down on the entire quilt. If you use a largetable that is big enough to support the weight of the

quilt, and you roll the quilt as you sew, it is fairly easyto do. The table and your lap are enough to supportthe weight of the quilt. I found it most helpful to leavethe feed dogs up on my machine because of theweight of the denim. Sew the horizontal "figureeights" first and roll the quilt to fit into the throat of themachine, (rolling again as you complete the sewing ofeach row). Start sewing on one end of the quilt,sewing row by row until you get to the middle of thequilt. Then, flip the quilt around and sew the other halfof the quilt in the same manner. Once the horizontalrows are stitched, sew the vertical rows using thesame technique.


Step 10: Finishing the Outer Edges

If you are not going to sew binding to the quilt, sew areinforcing seam around the outer edges of the quilt,right next to the original curved seam lines. Since theedges are all now finished, binding is optional.

If you are going to bind the quilt, use your straight

edge, rotary cutter, and cutting mat to trim the edgesof the quilt so your binding will lay nice and flat.Alternatively, it is possible to add binding over theflaps. I chose to trim my edges. The next step willexplain the binding process.


Step 11: Machine Binding (Optional)

Calculating the Binding

To calculate the amount of binding that you need for a project, measure each side of the quilt and add up thosemeasurements. Then, add an additional twelve inches to that number to account for the four mitered corners, anduse that as the length of binding to create. My quilt has a parameter of 310" so if I add 12" to that total, mycontinuous length of binding will need to be 322" long. To determine how many strips you will need to cut, dividethat number by 42" (the width of your fabric cut from selvage to selvage) and round up to the next whole number.My quilt calculation is 322 / 42 = 7.66 so I cut a total of (8) strips. I chose to cut my strips at 2 1/2" wide.

Making the Binding

1. Cut strips of fabric from selvage to selvage to create binding.2. Join the strips of fabric together to create a continuous length of binding by placing two strips right

sides together, at a 90-degree angle, as pictured. Make sure the strips extend over the edge byabout 1/4². You can use a straight edge and a marker to lightly draw a line between the pointswhere the bottom strip meets the top strip that will serve as your sewing line but you may feelconfident in sewing without having to mark. Sew on the line (back stitching at the beginning and the


end of your seam.)3. Remove the strips from the sewing machine and trim 1/4" from the stitched line.4. Press the seam open with your iron.5. Continue to sew one strip to another in the same fashion until you have the continuous length

required to fit your quilt. Once you have the total length needed, fold the strips in half lengthwisewith wrong sides together and press with iron.

Sewing the Binding Around the Back Side of the Quilt

1. Since we are binding with the sewing machine, place the binding along the back of the quilt. Start inthe middle of one side, place two pins into the quilt 12" apart, line up the raw edges of the bindingwith the raw edges of the quilt, leaving about a 10" tail of binding strip loose at the end. Start sewingat the first pin mark using a 1/4" seam allowance. Don't forget to back stitch at the beginning.

2. Continue to sew along the edge of the quilt until you are about a 1/4" away from the corner. At thatpoint, stop sewing. Clip the thread and remove the quilt from your machine.

3. Rotate the quilt so that the edge that you just sewed is on the top.4. Fold the binding strip back along the line you just sewed, making a 45 degree fold. Then fold the

binding strip down, making a horizontal fold that lines up with the quilt’s top edge. Crease with yourfinger to create a mitered corner. Pin in place.

5. Put the quilt back into the sewing machine and begin to sew the binding to the next side, starting atthe top, and back stitching at the beginning. Repeat each side and corner until you have workedyour way around the entire quilt but stop sewing about 12" from where your started sewing thebinding onto the quilt.

Closing the Binding Using the Binding Tool

For closing the binding, I chose to use a binding tool. By making just just two measurements and two cuts with thetemplate, it works out perfectly every time.

1. Place the tool to the left edge of your binding where the stitching ends. Transfer the marked lineonto the binding by marking your binding.

2. Open up the binding and line up the marked line on the tool with the marked line you just made.Using a rotary cutter, trim around the tool.

3. Rotate the tool and place it against the right edge of your binding where you stopped stitching. Markthe line. Open the binding up and place the tip of the tool on the marked line. Trim with a rotarycutter.

4. Open up the binding ends and line them up using the pressed line as a guide. Hold the two ends inplace with pins.

5. Press the seam open and stitch the binding to your quilt for a smooth-looking edge without any bulk.

6. Finish sewing the rest of the binding to the back side of the quilt.

Sewing the Binding to the Front Side of the Quilt


1. Turn the quilt over so that the top is facing up, and pull the binding up from the back so that it laysflat, extending beyond the edge of the quilt. Press the binding to remove any creases or wrinklesthat formed while you were attaching it. Pin or clip in place.

2. To create a miter on the back, fold the binding in on one side, making sure you are covering yourstitching line. This will create a folded point at the corner. Place a pin on the front to hold the bindingin place.Once you get to a corner, stop sewing and leave the needle down, and pivot the quilt sothat the mitered edge is facing you. Treat each corner like you did the previous.

3. Stitch the binding in place "in-the-ditch" of the seam. When you get back to the side of the quilt thatyou started on, sew over the first sew stitches that you made, back stitch a couple of stitches to lockthe seam, and then remove the quilt from the sewing machine.

Since I was machine binding, I chose to use a decorative stitch with a variegated thread and I really love how itturned out.

Your binding is finished!







Step 12: Fray (Optional)

If you are going for the ragged edge look, the edgesof the flaps need to be clipped. Use the Friskars EasyAction Rag Scissors or small sharp scissors to snipthe edges every 1/4” being careful not to snip past thesewing line. Once you have the edges clipped, use astiff brush to fluff the snipped edges buy rubbing thebrush back and forth against the clipped edges (thisspeeds up the fraying process). After the quilt iswashed and dried, the edges will start to fray moreevenly.

WARNING: Running the clipped and brushed quiltthrough your washer creates quite a mess! I gave thequilt a big shake to eliminate most of the loose textile

before I put the quilt into my dryer. I used my hand toremove the loose textile from the washer basin. Next,I finished up the laundry room clean up by getting outmy broom and dustpan.

The time it took me to clean up was definitely worththe effort because the fraying gave the quilt anamazing texture and I was pleasantly surprised withhow soft the frayed areas became. The softnessmade the quilt even more cozy.

Guess what? Your quilt is ready to go! All this workcalls for play so let's play some games!


Step 13: Let the Games Begin!

Here are some games ideas to keep your kids occupied at various ages and stages so they will be able to enjoytheir quilt for many years to come.

GAME 1 - Find specific things in the quilt.

AlphabetsAnimalsBaby ThingsBirdsBugsCarsDinosaursDisney CharactersFishFlowersFruitsMusical InstrumentsShapes


SuperherosThings that are a certain colorToysZoo Animals Etc.

GAME 2 – Find things in the quilt that go together.

Characters from a storyThings that flyBat and Ball Etc.

GAME 3 – Find things in the quilt start with the same letter.

Airplane and AppleBat and BallCake and CatMator and Mickey Mouse Etc.

GAME 4 – Find things in the quilt that rhyme.

Cat/BatDog/Frog Etc.

GAME 5 - Make up a story using multiple squares from the quilt.

GAME 6 - Toss a few coins on a the quilt and make up a story based on the squares where the coins have landed.

GAME 7 - Write I Spy riddles to go with the fabrics/pictures on your quilt. Look for interesting words and phrases torhyme. Try writing to a rhythmic pattern called dactylic tetrameter or create a rap (which also has four main beatsto a line.) Use Alliteration and or assonance to aid in writing your riddles.

GAME 8 - Find two or more players and play a traditional game of I Spy but use the fabrics/photos in the quilt forthe objects spied in the game. The rules for the traditional game are as follows:

Chose two or more players. (There is no limit to the amount of players that can play).Select the first "Spy".The first "Spy" selects an object in one of the quilt blocks but doesn't reveal what they selected.Instead, they give the first hint to what it is they have selected.The other players take turns trying to guess the object.If no one guesses correctly on the first try, the "Spy" gives another hint by choosing a differentadjective and concentrating on a different feature of the object.The player that guesses the object correctly is the next "Spy".If none of the players are able to guess, the Spy can either give another clue or pass the turn byselecting another player to become the "Spy".

GAME 9: Find all the matching blocks.


The games are a clever addition to a darling quilt. You have my vote!

Thank you! Thank you! I really appreciate your vote. This has been a really fun project.

What a beautiful quilt and such a good idea!! :D

Thank you so much! My son absolutely loves this quilt. Before I made it for him, I couldn’t manageto keep him covered at night. This quilt is incredibly heavy with the recycled denim. If I fold it in

GAME 10: Find all the blocks that do not have a matching block.

Step 14: Enjoy!

Thank you for viewing my "In-Jeanious I Spy Quilt" Instructable. If you are inspired, please vote for thisInstructable in the Sew Warm Contest. Happy sewing everyone!


quarters and lay it over him, I think it must act like a weighted blanket on the little guy. Interestingthing is he rarely tosses and turns at all while sleeping under the weight of this quilt.

my mom is a quilter she makes these for each of the grand kids on her she embroiders the wordsaround the boarders too fun idea to

Thank you.


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I Spy Quilt