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High Altitude Medicine
Scott McIntosh, MD, MPH
Director, EMS/Wilderness Medicine Fellowship
University of Utah
Connecticut
Why study?
1. Live in or travel to high areas
Why study?
1. Live in or travel to high areas
2. Excellent physiology
Why study?
1. Live in or travel to high areas
2. Excellent physiology
3. Expedition medical director
14,000 ft Camp
The Plan
• Definitions• Acclimatization - by system• Specific problems:
– Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)– High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)– High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)
How high is high?29,000
Extreme18,000
Very High12,000
High8,000
Medium5,000
Low0
Acclimatization
• Definition: series of adaptations the body undergoes when exposed to high altitude for extended periods
• Fascinating and complex physiology
Altitudemeters
PBmm Hg
PIO2mm Hg
PaO2mm Hg
PaCO2mm Hg
Sea level 760 150 90 40
4200 440 83 48 27
6000 354 64 40 21
8000 280 49 34 12
8848 253 43 30 8
Lowlander
1. Base Camp2. To top ice fall then Base Camp3. Rest (Base Camp)4. Rest (Base Camp)5. Base Camp to Camp I6. Touch Camp II then back to Camp I7. Camp I to Base Camp8. Rest (Base Camp)9. Rest (Base Camp)10. Base Camp to Camp I11. Camp I to Camp II12. Rest (Camp II)13. Part way up Lhotse face then to Camp II14. Camp II to Base Camp15. Rest (Base Camp)16. Rest (Base Camp)17. Rest (Base Camp)18. Base Camp to Camp II19. Rest (Camp II)20. Camp II to Camp III21. Yellow Band then to Camp II22. Base Camp23. Wait for weather window
Lowlander
1. Base Camp2. To top ice fall then Base Camp3. Rest (Base Camp)4. Rest (Base Camp)5. Base Camp to Camp I6. Touch Camp II then back to Camp I7. Camp I to Base Camp8. Rest (Base Camp)9. Rest (Base Camp)10. Base Camp to Camp I11. Camp I to Camp II12. Rest (Camp II)13. Part way up Lhotse face then to Camp II14. Camp II to Base Camp15. Rest (Base Camp)16. Rest (Base Camp)17. Rest (Base Camp)18. Base Camp to Camp II19. Rest (Camp II)20. Camp II to Camp III21. Yellow Band then to Camp II22. Base Camp23. Wait for weather window
Sherpa
1. Base Camp2. Base Camp3. Base Camp4. Base Camp5. Base Camp6. Base Camp to Camp II7. Rest (Camp II)8. Base Camp9. Base Camp10. Wait for weather window
Respiratory• Hypoxic Ventilatory Response
1. Carotid bodies sense decreased pO2
2. Central medullary receptors sense pH changes (CO2 diffuses across, dropping pH)
• Response is genetically predetermined
• South American vs. Himalayan natives
Hypoxic Ventilatory Response
Am J Phys 1949 157:445-62
Altitude (ft) Resp Rate Min Vent (L/min)
0 12 8
12,000 14 10
18,000 15 11
24,000 27 23
Acid-Base Changes
1. Result: mild resp alkalosis approx 7.48 (blowing off CO2)
2. After 1-2 days: Kidneys respond with H+ conservation and HCO3
- excretion
3. pH restored close to (but not = to) 7.40 (occurs at approx 1 week)
Circulatory System• Sympathetic Stimulation:
– Increased HR, BP, inotropy– Selective vasoconstriction (muscles, skin, viscera)– SNS normalizes during acclimatization
Am J Cardiol 1990(Operation Everest II)
65:1475-80
Hematological System• Hypoxia causes erythropoietin release
• HCT usually 30% above sea level
• HCT’s above 75% not uncommon
Help Acclimatization
• Graded Ascent– More difficult-easy to
travel eg: Lukla
• Fluids, high CHO diet• Younger
– more susceptible
• Physically fit– no protection
Help Acclimatization
Help Acclimatization
• Vitamin C• Calcium Ascorbate• Siberian Ginseng extract• L-Tyrosine• Ginkgo Biloba extract• Schizandra extract• Ginger Root extract• Reishi Mushroom extract
Help Acclimatization
• Diamox – causes renal bicarb excretion leading to metabolic acidosis,
increasing ventilation– diuretic action decreases edema – sulfa drug and side effects
CO2 + H2O H2CO3 H+ + HCO2-
Carbonic Anhydrase
AMS
• Headache plus at least one of the following:– GI upset,
weakness/fatigue, difficulty sleeping, dizziness or light-headedness
– Nausea, vomiting, anorexia common
AMS
• Symptoms develop within a few hours
• Max intensity at 24-48 hours
• Symptom free at day 3-4
Aviat Space
Environ Med
1980;51:872-77
General Treatment of HA Problems
• Descent
• Portable hyperbaric chamber
• Oxygen
• Specific medications
Gamow Bag
Mild Moderate Severe•All symptoms mild
•Not alarming
•Symptoms more intense
•Disrupting trip
•Alarming
•Worsening of s/s’s of AMS
•Possibly altered mental status
•Other HA illness may be present
•Stay at current altitude
•Resume when improved
•Tylenol for headache
•Compazine for N/V
•Consider descent but not mandatory
•Diamox
•Resume when improved
•Mandatory descent or Gamow bag if cannot walk
•Diamox
•Consider terminating trip
High Altitude Cerebral Edema
• Continuum of AMS• Brain swelling• Hallmark symptoms:
– Ataxia, mental status changes, confusion, stupor, coma
Cerebral Edema?
HACE - Treatment
• Early recognition required
• Mandatory descent and evacuation
• All general high altitude illness treatments
• Dexamethasone 8 mg IM or IV then 4 mg every 6 hours
• Prognosis good to deadly
HACE Case
HAPE
• Most common cause of death in HA
• Non-cardiogenic pulmonary edema
• At 14K on Denali: – O2 sats in 56%– Avg pO2 = 28
J Appl Physiol 64:2605,1988
HAPE Physiology• Normally hypoxia/ischemia produces vasodilation
• In lungs, HYPOXIC VASOCONSTRICTION
HAPE CXR
• Patchy b/c of different areas of hypoxia and vasoconstriction, relocation of blood and therefore edema
• Normal heart• No Kerley lines
HAPE Susceptibility
• People who have abnormally high PAP
• Possibly congenital reduced NO synthetase
HAPE Treatment
• Oxygen and descent usually sufficient
• If those not available, nifedipine– Decreases pulmonary hypertension– New drug?
High Altitude Medical Kit
• Meds:– Diamox – PO– Nifedipine – PO– Dexamethasone – IV– Ginko?
• Oxygen?
• Gamow bag?