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of the last guardians frontier P alawan is one of the Philippines’ jewels in the crown. With its crystal blue waters, white sands, craggy mountains, quaint towns and jungle landscape, it exemplifies the best of the country. And it succeeds in being ecologically sound without even seeming to try, a fact that has encouraged companies such as the eco-friendly and world famous Banyan Tree to open up one of its newest resorts, scheduled for 2009. But there’s more afoot in the capital than unconscious preservation. A number of new attractions are enticing visitors, as well as benefiting the local land and its inhabitants.

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P o f t h e la st Palawan Conservation Corps nature park Sabang’s Mangroves Pambato Reef Puntod Ilis Marine Sanctuary ó Ugong rock

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of the lastguardiansfrontier

Palawan is one of the Philippines’ jewels in the crown. With its crystal blue waters, white sands, craggy mountains, quaint towns and jungle landscape, it exemplifies the best

of the country. And it succeeds in being ecologically sound without even seeming to try, a fact that has encouraged companies such as the eco-friendly and world famous Banyan Tree to open up one of its newest resorts, scheduled for 2009.

But there’s more afoot in the capital than unconscious preservation. A number of new attractions are enticing visitors, as well as benefiting the local land and its inhabitants.

of the lastguardiansfrontier

Palawan Conservation Corps nature parkThe Palawan Conservation Corps (PCC) nature park nestles among the hills of Salvacion, an hour’s drive from Puerto Princesa city centre. Criss-crossed with brooks and streams, it is home to many of Palawan’s native plants and animals, including a number of endemic species.

Founded in 1999, PCC is a non-governmental organisation that focuses on conservation through empowering out-of-school youth. Jackie Villa (below), 21, graduated from their program in 2006. “I’ve learned so much from PCC,” she says “I became aware of just how important the environment is and how, if we care for it, the natural world becomes even more beautiful. Before I started training at the nature park, I had never even seen a narra tree before – the national tree of the Philippines!”

A favourite place along the park’s extensive nature trail is the seedling nursery for native plants. Here visitors can see a host of young trees, such as marangs, which will yield a rare and delicious fruit once they are grown. “I also enjoy visiting our butterfly

garden,” says Jackie, “sometimes I go there just after sunrise to watch how butterflies

suck nectar from flowers.” Jackie

is a university student, training to be a tour guide. “PCC really made me what I am now,” she beams.

Sabang’s MangrovesIn the dappled morning light, Sabang’s mangroves take on an other-worldly atmosphere. The extraordinary trees, some of which are over 100 years old, stand on enormous roots protruding out of the waters. A small group of visitors climb aboard a paddle-boat to explore the forest with a local guide. This ancient ecosystem, where the land meets the sea, may be among the last of its kind in the Philippines. And tourists actually contribute towards its preservation.

The mangrove paddle-boat tour is one of several attractions organised with the help of ‘Pasyar’ developmental tourism, a project of the Palawan NGO Network. Pasyar is a local Cuyonon word meaning ‘to travel leisurely’ and the program promotes locally-based tourism and environmental conservation.

Johnny Tabinga, who guides us on our tour through the mangroves, is a Cuyonon himself. He talks quietly as he paddles through the swampy landscape and points out a brightly

coloured stork-billed kingfisher that has

settled on a nearby branch. He explains that the seemingly uninhabited forest is in fact teeming with animal life. Beneath the water’s surface lie oysters, crabs, sea stars and a myriad of young fish, while

the mangrove trees themselves are home to snakes, lizards, spiders and long-tailed macaque monkeys.

Aida Moyano (right) is president of the Mangrove Paddle-boat Tour Guide Association. “Forty percent of the visitors’ fee goes towards the mangrove trust fund and the remaining 60 percent goes to our local guides”, she explains. Known to sing as she paddles her guests through the forest, Aida is proud to have been dubbed ‘Lady Mangrove’. She wears a unique style of wide-brimmed hat which she weaves herself from pandan leaves and sells locally. “I’m happy to be able to protect and promote the mangroves,” she says, “and I’m eager to start training our next generation of tour guides.”

Puntod Ilis Marine SanctuaryThis watery conservation area lies adjacent to Barangay Babuyan, on Puerto Princesa’s east coast. It is run by an enthusiastic group of locals who want to protect their coral reefs, while boosting the income of their community through tourism.

We arrive early one morning when the tide is low and the gently rippling water is an exquisite turquoise. Aboard an old banca - a wooden outrigger boat – it is just a short ride out to one of the two sandbars inside the marine sanctuary. The sand is soft and fine, with beautiful shells scattered

around; waves lap softly on the shore. “Visitors often tell me that they feel this is heaven,” says Henry Bacani (below), chairman of the sanctuary board, “some simply don’t want to leave.”

In the centre of the sanctuary a rest house stands on stilts in the water. Shady, with wonderful views, this seems the perfect place to relax. Those looking for the ultimate experience can stay here overnight. “We’ve had all kinds of guests, even honeymooners,” says Henry.

Pambato ReefThis underwater sanctuary is nearby to Puntod Ilis and easily accessible from Santa Lourdes. Pambato is a triumph of marine conservation – a flourishing

coral reef in an area which was, until quite recently, worryingly vulnerable to destructive fishing. The project

was initiated by members of HOBBAI (Honda Bay Boat Owners Association Inc) and has been an instant hit with tourists on island-hopping trips.

The brightly decorated boats of Honda Bay fly strings of coloured flags

and, during the short ride to Pambato, visitors can take in an island-studded seascape fringed with emerald green mangroves. The reef itself is large and there are many different snorkelling areas, each carefully marked out. The underwater world abounds with marine life – from zany parrot fish to timid and

delicately patterned angel fish feeding on

a wide diversity of corals.Pambato’s resident caretaker is

Renaldo Lacuarin (left), who stays there day and night in a small floating

guard house. He, like many others all over the province, devotes his time to safeguarding the natural environment for future generations. Through supporting these eco-friendly initiatives, tourists can help both Palawan and Palaweños to flourish.

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Ugong rock Located in Tagabinet, Ugong rock is just a 20-minute drive away from the town of Sabang. It towers above the paddy fields

like an age-old castle, overgrown with vegetation. After a brief walk up a craggy slope, visitors climb through a gap in the rock face to go inside. Beams of light enter through small gaps in the rock, partly illuminating a series of magnificent

chambers. Near the mouth of the cave hangs a flowstone which, when it is struck

lightly, resounds like a gong – hence the name Ugong rock.

As we walk through a tall, narrow tunnel, Rommel Ortiga (left), our local guide, talks excitedly. “Like the underground river in Sabang, these rock formations are all part of our limestone karst landscape,” he explains. “These passageways are billions of years old!”

The climb is challenging and enjoyable, made easier by ropes and wooden bridges in the more tricky areas. When we emerge into the bright sunshine at the summit, a fresh breeze is blowing and the view is awe-inspiring. Rudy Baldo, President of the Ugong community guide association, points out features in the countryside below. “The landscape is full of caves and rock formations which are yet to be explored,” he says. “I am glad that we now have the resources to open Ugong Rock to visitors.”