Great Britain 7 Eastern England v1 m56577569830517788

8/10/2019 Great Britain 7 Eastern England v1 m56577569830517788

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For a region that is largely flat as a pancake, Eastern England is far from featureless. This

sweet-edged mix is seasoned by ancient cathedral cities, spiced by a wealth of delightfulmedieval villages, drizzled by inland waterways and fringed by crisp shingly beaches. But the

dollop of cream on the top is undoubtedly the beautiful and venerable city of Cambridge,

home of the world-famous university.

Most visitors make a beeline to this time-honoured institution of learning, but its worth

taking time to delve deeper into the region. Within the same county of Cambridgeshire

alone are two of Englands finest cathedrals at Ely and Peterborough, and one of Europes

top aircraft collections at the Imperial War Museum. Neighbouring Suffolk is a lovely pastoral

county peppered with timber-framed villages that seem designed to adorn a chocolate box,

and a coast of charming Edwardian seaside resorts.

Further north in Norfolk, visitors are rewarded by rich wildlife reserves and old-fashioned

fun on the water, both on its placid Broads and along its varied coastline. Topping the region

is the undervisited, underpopulated but undoubtedly lovely county of Lincolnshire, home

to a more varied terrain, the captivating hilltop capital of Lincoln and a clutch of stunning

stately homes and period towns that are accustomed to starring on the silver screen.

And while Eastern England isnt the best region for agoraphobics or hill-walkers, its smooth

uncluttered horizons have their own appeal; giving centre stage to stunning sunsets and

the sky-scraping spires of hundreds of churches, cathedrals and colleges built during the

regions medieval heyday.

Eastern EnglandHistoryEast Anglia was a major Saxon kingdom andthe treasures unearthed in the Sutton Hooburial ship (see p473) proved that they en-

joyed something of the good life here.The regions heyday, however, was in the

Middle Ages, during the wool and weavingboom. Flemish weavers settled in the area, andthe regions long drainage canals, windmills

and the architecture also illustrate the culturalcrossover with the Continental lowlands. Not tomention the grand churches and world-famousuniversity that the new wealth helped to fund.

By the 17th century the emergence of awork-happy urban bourgeoisie coupled witha strong sense of religious duty resulted inthe parliamentarianism and Puritanism

that would climax in the Civil War. OliverCromwell, the uncrowned king of the par-liamentarians, was a small-time merchantresiding in Ely when he answered Gods call totake up arms against the fattened and corruptmonarchy of Charles I.

Eastern Englands fortunes waned in the18th century, however, when the real Indus-trial Revolution action was taking place up

north. The cottage industries of East Angliadwindled and today crops have replaced sheepas the rural mainstay.

InformationRegional tourist information can be obtainedfrom the East of England Tourist Board(%0870 2254800; www.visiteastofengland.com).

POPULATION: 2.66 MILLION AREA: 19,000 SQ MILES

HIGHLIGHTS

Gliding a river punt past historic colleges in

Cambridge (p465)

Falling in love with the fairy-pink timber-

framed houses of Lavenham (p474)

Popping in to see the Queen at Sandring-

ham House(p490)

Climbing the picturesque cobbled streets of

Lincoln (p491)

Cruising through the tranquil waterways of

the Norfolk Broads (p484)

Picturing yourself in a period drama in

historic Stamford(p496)

HouseSandringham

BroadsNorfolk

Lavenham

Stamford

Cambridge

Lincoln

Humber

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BurghleyHouse

CastleRising

IckworthHouse &

Park

Spurn Head

BeltonHouse

FelbriggHall

SandringhamHouse

HolkhamHall

KirbyHall

BelvoirCastle

SnapeMaltings

SizewellNuclearPower

StationAmerican

War Cemetery

Louth

Godmanchester

Leadenham

Wisbech

Sheringham

Royston

Harwich

Swaffham

Finchingfield

Saxilby

Sutterton

Biggleswade

Bingham

Hitchin

Scole

Tuxford

Ampthill

Sutton

NorthSomercotes

Littleport

Mablethorpe

Grantchester

PotterHeigham

BurnhamMarket

Kilnsea

Heacham

Wymondham

Langham

LongSutton

MarketDeeping

Bourne

Mundesley

DownhamMarket

LeightonBuzzard

Wroxham

St Ives

Corby

Glatton

Hadleigh

Duxford

Holme-next-the-Sea

LongMelford

Rothwell Warboys

Sandy

Palling

Rushden

Bungay

Cromer

Wells-next-the-Sea

Dersingham

Stowmarket

Sleaford

Stradsett

Stalham

Aldeburgh

Orford

Brandon

Loddon

Beccles

Kettering

Soham

Ramsey

Heckington

Whittlesey

Cleethorpes

Watton

OundleWrentham

Lavenham

Fakenham

Southwold

NewportPagnell

Halstead

Chatteris

Holbeach

Threekingham

Redbourne

Winterton

Hunstanton

Eye

Finedon

Brigg

Halesworth

Clophil

Outwell

Wragby

Swainsthorpe

Leiston

Horncastle

Attleborough

NorthWalsham

Aylsham

Thrapston

Harleston

Ixworth

Dereham

Harpley

BurnhamDeepdale

Kersey

Walberswick

Oakham

St Neots

Diss

Caistor

Uppingham

Clare

Midenhall

North

Coates

Saffron

WaldenBaldock

Ludborough

MarketRasen

Thetford

North

Elmham

Mundford

Thorpeness

Blakeney

Congham

Witcham

Stilton

Wicken

Woodbridge

Ely

Newmarket

Stevenage

Huntingdon

Gainsborough

Baintree

MeltonMowbray

March

Bury StEdmunds

Sudbury

Skegness

Stamford

Felixstowe

Spalding

GreatYarmouth

Newark-on-Trent

Bedford

Boston

Haverhill

Grantham

Melbourn

Dunwich

Great Gonerby

Peterborough

Lincoln

King's

Lynn

GrimsbyScunthorpe

Colchester

MiltonKeynes

Norwich

Wellingborough

Lowestoft

Northampton

Ipswich

Luton

Cambridge

SuttonHoo

CleyMarshes

North

Sea

The

Wash

ESSEX

NORFOLK

SUFFOLK

HERTFORDSHIRE

LEICESTERSHIRE

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

BEDFORDSHIRE

MILTONKEYNES

LINCOLNSHIRE

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burg

ToHookofHolland

53N

52N

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Blackwater

Witham

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A16

M180

A153

A52

A1

A1

A17

A47

A47

A11

M11

A43

A12

A149

A14

A10

EASTERN ENGLAND 0 40 km

0 20 miles

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ActivitiesRegional tourist websites are packed withwalking, cycling and sailing information, andtourist offices are stacked high with leaflets,maps and guides covering activities offeredin the area.

CYCLING

The region is famously flat, so even the unfit

can find vast swaths of Eastern England for agentle potter on two wheels. All four countiesboast networks of quiet country lanes, wherethe biggest natural hazard is the wind sweep-ing in unimpeded from the coast. When itsbehind you, though, you can freewheel formiles. Cambridge is internationally celebratedas a bike-friendly city and an excellent basefor cycle tours. Theres also gorgeous rid-ing to be had along the Suffolk and Norfolkcoastlines and in the Fens. Mountain bikerscan head for Thetford Forest, near Thetford,while much of the popular on- and off-roadPeddars Way (see below) walking route is also

open to cyclists.

WALKING

Flat as an open palm, Eastern England is noteverybodys idea of classic walking country.But itchy hiking feet can still be well satisfiedwith gentle rambles through farmland, besiderivers and lakes and along the wildlife-richcoastline.

The well-known Peddars Way and Norfolk CoastPath is a six-day, 88-mile national trail fromKnettishall Heath near Thetford to Cromer onthe coast. The first half trails along an ancientRoman road, then finishes by meandering

along the beaches, sea walls, salt marshesand fishing villages of the coast. Day-trip-

pers and weekend walkers tend to dip into itscoastal stretches, which also cover some of thebest bird-watching country in England. Thehandy Peddars Wayfarer bus service (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/peddarsway; twice dailyMarch to October) can whisk you to and frompoints en route.

Curving round further south, the 50-mileSuffolk Coast and Heaths Pathwanders between

Felixstowe and Lowestoft, via Snape Maltings,Aldeburgh, Dunwich and Southwold, but isalso good for shorter rambles.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

With wind and water so abundant here, itsno surprise that sailingis all the rage on thecoast and in the Norfolk Broads, where youcan easily hire boats and arrange lessons.Mind you, many people simply opt to put-puttheir way around the Broads in motorboatsthese days. More watery fun can be had inCambridge, where the daring can try theirhand at a spot of punting. Alternatively, land-

lubbers can take advantage of the long, wideand frequently empty beaches of the Norfolkcoast by land yachting, a growing sport in theregion.

Getting There & AroundGetting about the region on public transport,both rail and coach, is straightforward. OneAnglia (%0845 600 7245; www.onerailway.com)offerssome handy regional rail passes to exploreNorfolk, Suffolk and parts of Cambridge-shire; the one-day pass (11) can be used forunlimited regional travel after 9am, whilethe three-day pass (22) covers any three

separate days over a period of seven days.For train travel in Lincolnshire, Central Trains

(www.centraltrains.co.uk) has Day Ranger tickets(16.50). For public transport information,consult Traveline (%0870 608 2608; www.travelineeastanglia.org.uk).

CAMBRIDGESHIREIts easy to fall into the trap of thinking Cam-

bridgeshire equals Cambridge, the breath-takingly beautiful city and world-renownedbrains trust where a visit feels like plunginginto the past and meeting the future rolledinto one. And the university rightly tops anyagenda to the region. But dont let Cam-bridges dazzling attractions blind you to thecountys other charms. Anywhere else, theextraordinary cathedrals at Peterborough andEly would steal the limelight, and the rip-roaring Imperial War Museum would leaveeveryone from aeroplane-obsessed kids totheir nostalgic grandparents wriggling withanticipation. Flat as an ironing board, the

county also offers leisurely cycling through re-claimed fen, lush farmland and across myriadwaterways. A nightmare for agoraphobics,the vast open landscapes nonetheless impresswith epic sunsets and unsullied horizons.

Getting AroundThe regions public transport radiates fromCambridge, which is a mere 55 minutes trainride from London. This line continues norththrough Ely to Kings Lynn in Norfolk. FromEly, branch lines run east through Norwich,southeast into Suffolk, and northwest to Pe-terborough and into Lincolnshire. The useful

Cambridgeshire and Peterborough PassengerTransport Mapis available at all tourist officesor you can call Traveline(%0870 608 2608; www.travelineeastanglia.org.uk).

CAMBRIDGE%01223 / pop 108,863Few cities can take the breath away quite likeCambridge. Its not just its tightly packed coreof exquisite architecture, or even the mind-boggling mass of brain power that has passedthrough its world-famous university, but itsalso the sensation of drowning in history,tradition and quirky ritual that only seems

to deepen the more you discover. But so toothere is plentiful opportunity to come up forair, relaxing in the manicured college gardens,punting along the beautiful river Backs androaming the lush water meadows that runout of the city.

And of course Cambridge is no mere re-pository of history and charm, it is very mucha living city; its narrow streets are alive withthe click and whirr of cyclists. The river isclogged with red-faced rowers, drifting puntsand on occasion floundering freshmen. Col-lege porters still potter around in bowler hats,while gowned students wine and dine in cav-

ernous medieval halls. Historic pubs echowith the same equal mix of intellectual banterand rowdy merrymaking that they have forcenturies. And a new generation of designerboutiques, coffee houses and slick nightlife

venues is f inding its niche in among the in-triguing passageways and medieval doorwaysof the old town.

While youll find all these qualities andmore in the other place (as rival Oxfordis referred to here), Cambridge is the moreconcentrated of Englands two great univer-sity cities, and in our humble opinion, farthe prettier.

HistoryThe University of Cambridge celebrates its800th birthday in 2009, and its eventful eight

BIZARRE ENGLAND

What? The English? Eccentric? Well, maybe just a little. Eastern England certainly has its fair

share of bizarre events to prove it. Where else could you find the annual World Snail Racing

Championshipsthan at Congham, about 7 miles east of Kings Lynn? Every year here in mid-July

around 300 snails battle it out for a tankard full of juicy lettuce leaves. Visitors can enter their

own pet invertebrate, complete with painted shell.

And for further proof that the English never quite grow out of childhood pranks, witness the

annual World Pea Shooting Championships, in which contestants blast dried peas through

a tube at various targets. The games take place in early July on the Village Green at Witcham,

about 8 miles west of Ely.

And in the village of Stilton, a few miles south of Peterborough, every May Day Bank Holi-day sees teams in fancy dress scramble along the High St to become Stilton cheese rolling

champions.

SOMETHING FOR THE WEEKEND

Start your weekend in style by snagging a river-view room at Cambridge Garden House( p466)

and venture out for a nightcap at celebrated pub the Eagle( p467). Next morning check out the

university colleges, dip into the sublime Kings College Chapel(p462) and then reward yourself

with lunch at swanky Midsummer House (p467). In the afternoon, work off your excesses by

punting(p465) along the Backs before bidding farewell to the dreamy spires and breezing east to

the Stour Valley(p473) and the time-transcending streets of gorgeous Lavenham (p474). Install

yourself in the spectacular and none-too-frugal Lavenham Priory(p474), and explore the towns

higgledy-piggledy lanes to work up an appetite for steak-and-ale pies at ancient inn the Angel(p475). On Sunday morning roll west to check out the twin stately homes of Long Melford(p473)

to remind yourself how the other half lives, before heading back to your own cosy abode.

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Queens CollegeThis gorgeous college (%335511; www.queens.cam.ac.uk; Silver St; adult 1.50)sits elegantly astride theriver and takes its name from two queens whofounded it in the 15th century. For visitors, thecolleges main entrance is off Queens Lane andthis is where its two most enchanting medievalcourtyards are found: Old Court and especiallyCloister Court, unmistakable for its intimate

cloisters and matchbox lawn that irresistiblycall to mind images of distracted academics inslippers and poets draped in the corners. Heretoo is the beautiful half-timbered PresidentsLodge and the tower in which famous Dutchscholar and reformer Erasmus lodged from1510 to 1514. Old Ras wasnt particularly en-amoured of Cambridge: he thought that thewine tasted like vinegar, that the beer was slopand that the place was too expensive, but he didnote that the local women were good kissers.

Peterhouse CollegeThe oldest and smallest college,Peterhouse

(%338200; www.pet.cam.ac.uk; Trumpington St) will leaveyou wanting to slip it into your handbag totake home. Founded in 1284 by Hugo de Bal-sham, later Bishop of Ely, it stands just southof the Little St MarysChurch. The churchs un-wieldy original name was St Peters-without-Trumpington-Gate, which gave the college itsname. Inside is a memorial to student GodfreyWashington, great-uncle of George. His fam-ily coat of arms was the stars and stripes, theinspiration for the US flag. Henry Cavend-ish, the first person to measure the density ofwater, also studied here. He also calculated theplanets weight: about six billion trillion metric

tonnes if you must know.Much of Peterhouse has been rebuilt or addedover the years, including the exceptional littlechapel built in 1632, but the main hall is bonafide 13th century and beautifully restored.

Emmanuel CollegeNeither too big nor too small and surprisinglytranquil, this 16th-centurycollege(%334200; StAndrews St)is particularly famous for two things.The first is facing you as you enter its FrontCourt: the 1677 Wren chapel, cloister andgallery is an architectural gem. And theresa plaque nearby commemorating its other

oft-repeated claim to fame, which is that iteducated one of Americas most famous edu-cators. John Harvard (BA 1632) was a scholarhere before he settled in New England and left

his money to found his namesake universityin the Massachusetts town of Cambridge.His portrait also graces one of the chapelsstained-glass windows but, as the artist hadno likeness of Harvard from which to work,he used the face of Harvards college contem-porary John Milton!

THE BACKS

Ah, the Backs. The place to be on a sunny day,these idyllic parklands line the river behindsome of the most famous colleges and eat upcamera films with their picture-postcard viewsof the college walls, graceful bridges, weep-ing willows and neatly manicured lawns uponwhich students picnic. There are several inter-esting bridges, especially the fanciful Bridge ofSighs(built in 1831) and the oldest crossing atClare College, built in 1639 and ornamented withdecorative balls. Its architect was paid a grandtotal of 15p for his design and, feeling aggrievedat such a measly fee, its said he cut a chunk outof one of the balls adorning the balustrade so the

bridge would never be complete. Most curiousof all is the flimsy-looking wooden construc-tion joining the two halves of Queens Collegeknown as the Mathematical Bridge, first built in1749. Dont fall prey to the punt-chauffeursrose-tinted myths that it was the handiwork ofSir Isaac Newton or originally built without anynails, though. Whether it would actually holdwithout the nuts and bolts well leave to theuniversity mathematicians to resolve.

GREAT ST MARYS CHURCH

Cambridges staunch university church(%741716; Senate House Hill;h10am-4pm Mon-Sat,

12.30-4pm Sun, to 5pm Jun-Aug) was built between1478 and 1519 in the late-Gothic perpendicu-lar style. A quirky fact about the church isthat its home to Englands oldest bell-ringingsociety. If youre fit and fond of a view, climbthe 123 steps of the tower (adult/child 2/1)pastthe cacophonous bells for superb vistas of thedreamy spires, albeit marred by wire fencing.

The beautiful classical building directlyacross Kings Pde is the Senate House, designedin 1730 by James Gibbs; graduations are heldhere in summer when gowned and mortar-boarded students parade the streets to pick upthose all-important scraps of paper.

ROUND CHURCH

The pop-up-book pretty Round Church(%311602;Bridge St; adult/child 1/free;h1-5pm Sun-Mon, 10am-5pm

Tue-Sat)is another of Cambridges most visitedgems and one of only four such structuresin England. It was built by the mysteriousKnights Templar in 1130 and shelters an unu-sual circular nave ringed by chunky Normanpillars. It now houses an exhibition on, shows

videos about and runs walking tours on Cam-bridges Christian heritage.

CHURCH OF ST BENETThe oldest structure in the county, the Saxontower of this Franciscan church (Benet St) wasbuilt around 1025. The round holes abovethe belfry windows were designed to offerowls nesting privileges; they were valued asmouse killers. The church also has a biblethat belonged to Thomas Hobson, owner of anearby livery stable, who told customers theycould hire any horse they liked as long as itwas the one nearest the door hence the termHobsons choice, meaning no choice at all.

FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM

Fondly dubbed the Fitz by locals, this colos-sal neoclassical pile was one of the first publicart museums (%332900; www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk;Trumpington St; admission free;h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)in Britain, built to house the fabuloustreasures that the seventh Viscount Fitzwil-liam had bequeathed to his old university.Particularly in the entrance hall, this unabash-edly over-the-top building sets out to mirrorits contents in an ostentatious jumble of stylesthat mixes mosaic with marble, Greek withEgyptian, and more. It was begun by GeorgeBasevi in 1837, but he did not live to see itscompletion: while working on Ely Cathedral

he stepped back to admire his handiwork,slipped and fell to his death.The lower galleries are filled with priceless

treasures from ancient Egyptian sarcophagito Greek and Roman art, Chinese ceramics toEnglish glass, and some dazzling illuminatedmanuscripts. The upper galleries shine withan incandescent collection of paintings by thelikes of Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Rubens, theImpressionists, Gainsborough and Constable,right through to Rembrandt and Picasso.

ActivitiesPUNTING

Gliding a self-propelled punt along the Backsis a blissful experience once youve got theknack, though it can also be a wobbly-leggedand manic challenge to begin. If you wimp

out you can always opt for a relaxing chauf-feured punt.Cambridge Chauffer Punts(%354164; www.punting-in-cambridge.co.uk; Silver St; per hr 14, chauffeured 50)Granta (%301845; Newnham Rd; per hr 10) A pubthat hires punts on the side.Scudamores(%359750; www.scudamores.com; SilverSt; per hr 12, chauffeured 40)

WALKING & CYCLINGFor an easy stroll into the countryside, youwont find a prettier route than the 3-milewalk to Grantchester following the mean-dering River Cam and its punters southwestthrough flower-flecked meadows.

Scooting around town on a bike is easythanks to the pancake-flat landscape, althoughthe surrounding countryside can get a bitmonotonous. The Cambridge tourist officestocks several useful guides including the freeCambridge Cycle Route Map.

Tours

City Sightseeing(%0871 666 0000; www.city-sightseeing.com; adult/child 9/4.50;h10am-4pm) Hop-onhop-off tour buses that run every 20 to 30 minutes. Youcan get on or off at 16 points along the route, including thetrain station, Fitzwilliam Museum, the Round Church andthe American Military Cemetery.Riverboat Georgina(%307694; www.georgina.co.uk;depending on food/refreshments per person 12-23) Two-hour cruises from the river at Jesus Lock. Four-hour cruisesmay also be available.Tourist Tracks(%305847; www.tourist-tracks.com)For those who prefer to wander at their own pace, thereare MP3 walking tours of the city. They can be downloadedfor 5, mail ordered on CD for 7 or hired with an MP3

player at the tourist office for 6. The pack contains fourseparate 30-minute tours of the city centre.Walking tours (%457574; [email protected];

h1.30pm daily, sometimes with extra tours at 10.30am,11.30am and 2.30pm depending on season; tickets includ-ing entry to Kings/St Johns Colleges 9/7) The touristoffice arranges these, as well as other less frequent tourssuch as colourful Ghost Tours (adult/concession/childunder seven 14/12/7) and Punt and Pint Tours (adult/concession/child under 12 20/17.50/10). The tourist officehas more details; book in advance.

SleepingBUDGET

Cambridge YHA (%

0870 770 5742, 354601; www.yha.org.uk; 97 Tenison Rd; dm 17;ni)The cheapest digs inthe city and a position just 600m from the trainstation make this L-shaped hostel the busiest

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in the region. Basically sound, the dorms aresmall, functional and well worn. Lockers andlaundry available. Breakfasts can be a harriedaffair, however, due to large groups.

Tenison Towers Guest House (%363924; www.cambridgecitytenisontowers.com; 148 Tenison Rd; s/d 30/55)The aroma of freshly baked muffins greetsyou at this home-style B&B just 300m fromthe train station. As well as bubbly personal

service, it has a cute little patio, comfortablyfurnished rooms with hand-sponged wallsand yes, muffins on the menu for breakfast.

MIDRANGE

Sleeperz(%304050; www.sleeperz.com; Station Rd; s/tw/dfrom 39/49/59;pn) Sitting amid a lawn ofbicycles beside the train station is this con-

verted warehouse with beamed ceiling andiron shutters, housing a one-night-wonderhotel that welcomes tired arrivals late intothe night. Its pint-sized rooms squeeze inminuscule en suite, TV and functional futonor cabin-style bunk bed, all spotless but so

snug that early-morning stretches may resultin bruising. Doubles are larger.

Harrys Bed & Breakfast(%503866; www.welcometoharrys.co.uk; 39 Milton Rd; s 45-56, d 65;pnwi-fi)Originally an Edwardian nursing home, thislively four-room B&B is a gem. Its perenniallycheerful host bends over backwards for guests,and the en suite rooms are tastefully decoratedin warm colours and modern furnishings.One has a shared toilet, but shower and basinwithin. Rates include free wi-fi and, joy of

joys, free local and national calls.Warkworth House(%363682; www.warkworthhouse

.co.uk; Warkworth Tce; s/d/f from 45/65/85;n)Behind

the blonde-brick faade and flower-flankedfront steps of this Victorian terraced house,just off Parkside, is a long-established andmuch-loved guesthouse that retains periodfireplaces, creaky wooden floors, bay win-dows and a pleasant patio. The comfy roomshave modern pastel-coloured furnishings, andchildren are welcome.

Arundel House Hotel (%367701; www.arundelhousehotels.co.uk; 53 Chesterton Rd; s/d/f from 75/95/120;

pn) Late-19th-century decorum meetsbland 1990s hotel style in this handsomeVictorian terraced building overlooking theCam, with 103 uniformly pink-chintz rooms.

Other than comfort, the biggest plus is pleas-ant views across the water and Jesus Green tocentral Cambridge a short and extremelypleasant walk away.

TOP END

Cambridge Garden House(Moat House;%259988; www.moathousehotels.com; Granta Pl, Mill Lane; s/d from 134/144;

pnaisw)Bagging an enviable river-side spot in the citys heart, the interior of thisresort-style hotel far surpasses expectationsformed by its ugly modern shell. Design-magperfect rooms are decorated with suede, leather,dark wood and boldly striped carpets, and even

the bathrooms scream style. Best of all are theriver-facing pool and the waterside gardensfrom which to watch punters glide past.

De Vere University Arms Hotel (%351241; www.devere.co.uk; Regent St; d incl breakfast from 159;pnaiw) Cambridges most distinguishedhotel, this huge early-Victorian pile hunkersdown beside bustling Parkers Piece as thoughfondly overseeing his great-great-grandchildren.Its public spaces ooze gentlemans-club atmos-phere, its 120 rooms comfort and elegance.Look out for the enormous, creaky cage liftfrom 1927. Parking costs 10.

EatingBUDGETFitzbillies(%352500; www.fitzbillies.com; 52 TrumpingtonSt;hshop 9am-5.30pm, restaurant 9am-9.30pm)Cam-bridges oldest bakery, beloved by generationsof students for its ultra-sticky buns and quaintwood shopfront, also has a classy music-freerestaurant dotted with fresh flowers for a tran-quil cream tea or meals.

Tatties (%323399; 11 Sussex St; mains 2-6;h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)Fast-in, fast-out fishtank-style caf and budget favouritethat whips out baked and stuffed potatoeswith innumerable fillings at lightening pace,

as well as breakfasts, baguettes, salads andcakes. It gets very busy over lunch.Clowns (%355711; 54 King St; sandwiches from 2.75;

h8am-midnight) Decorated with childrensdaubings of clowns, this is a thoroughly laid-back and charmingly personal spot for read-ing the newspaper, chatting over cappuccino,reasonably priced pasta or gelato, and relaxingon the roof terrace.oMichaelhouse(%309167; Trinity St; mains

3.50-6;h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)You can sup Fair-trade coffee and nibble focaccia among soar-ing medieval arches or else take a pew withinreach of the altar at this stylishly converted

church, which still has a working chancel.The simple lunch menu is mostly vegetarianbut also offers wine and beer for when Godsback is turned.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

oRainbow Vegetarian Bistro (%321551; 9aKings Pde; mains 8-9;h10am-10pm Tue-Sat)First-rate

vegetarian food and a pious glow emanatefrom this snug subterranean gem, accesseddown a narrow passageway off Kings Pde.Its decorated in funky colours and servesup organic dishes with a hint of the exotic,such as scrumptious Latvian potato bake and

Indonesian gado gado.Midsummer House (%369299; www.midsummer

house.co.uk; set lunch 20, 3-course dinner 55;hlunchTue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) Cambridges gastronomicbig-hitter, with two Michelin stars to its credit,this sophisticated restaurant is in a lovelygrey-brick Victorian villa backing onto theriver from its namesake common. Its adven-turous French Mediterranean menu sendsserious foodies weak at the knees. Book wellahead.

Twenty-Two (%351880; www.restaurant22.co.uk;22 Chesterton Rd; set dinner 24.50;h7-9.45pm Tue-Sat)Discretely disguised amid a row of Victorian

terraced housing is this outstanding restau-rant, blessed by both its romantic candlelitambience and its wonderful gourmet Britishand European menu with a commitment tolocal produce.

DrinkingPunting and drinking are two of Cambridgestudents favourite pastimes, and put the twotogether and you can really hit the relaxation

jackpot or else end up quite literally drinkinglike a fish. The punting pubs, where rowershang out and tourists can rent punts, are thebest spots to join in the fun.

Eagle (%505020; Benet St)Cambridges mostfamous pub has loosened the tongues andpickled the grey cells of many an illustri-ous academic in its day; among them NobelPrizewinning scientists Crick and Watson,who are thought to have discovered the formof DNA. Its a traditional 16th-century pubwith five cluttered cosy rooms, the back onepopular with WWII airmen, who left theirsignatures on the ceiling.

Fort St George (%354327; Midsummer Common)The ideal English summertime pub sand-wiched between the grassy expanse of Mid-summer Common and the punt-littered

River Cam, and with lots of outdoor picnictables at which to install yourself. Datingfrom the 16th century, the fort is said to bethe oldest pub on the river, and has a snug,

crookedly beamed interior to decamp whenthe suns gone in.

St Radegund (%311794; 127 King St;h5-11pmMon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun)A quirky little one-offpub the smallest in town run by an endear-ing eccentric and pulling a superb selectionof unusual real ales, St Radegund is hiddenbehind a bluff exterior and sackcloth curtains;the interior is hung with paraffin lamps and

the ceiling burnt with graffiti.Granta(%505016; Newnham Rd)If the exterior

of this picturesque waterside pub overhanginga pretty mill pond looks strangely familiar, itcould be because its the darling of many atelevision director. Its terrace sits directly be-side the water and when your Dutch couragehas been sufficiently fuelled, there are puntsfor hire alongside.

EntertainmentPick up a Whats On events guide from thetourist office or log on to www.cam.ac.uk/whatson.

NIGHTCLUBS

Fez(%519224; www.cambridgefez.com; 15 Market Passage;admission 5-7;h8pm-2am Mon-Sat)The citys topclub, popular with town and gown ever sincethe stone age, Moroccan-themed Fez playseverything from hip-hop to Latin funk andscores the cream of visiting DJs. Come earlyor expect queues.

Po Na Na Souk Bar(%323880; www.ponana.co.uk; 7bJesus Lane;h8pm-midnight)Sipping your cocktailin the intimate atmosphere of a Moroccankasbah and nodding along to an eclectic mixof Latin, house and hip-hop music, its easy

to understand why this late-night bar has re-mained a local favourite for a decade. Mondayis hip-twisting salsa night.

Twentytwo (%324600; www.twentytwo-cambridge.co.uk; Hobsons Passage, Sidney St; admission 5;h10pm-2am)Tucked down a tight passageway is thisfunky club kitted out in 70s dcor withhallucinogenic carpets and baby-blue/pinkbacklights and playing mostly mainstreamchoons. On Tuesday nights it hosts the citysbest-loved gay and lesbian night.

THEATRE

Corn Exchange (%357851; www.cornex.co.uk; Wheeler

St)This colossal ex-market building near thetourist office is the citys main centre for artsand entertainment, attracting the top namesin pop and rock to ballet.

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Arts Theatre (%503333; www.cambridgeartstheatre.com; 6 St Edwards Passage)Cambridges biggest bonafide theatre puts on everything from pantomimeto drama fresh from Londons West End.

ADC (%300085; www.adctheatre.com; Park St) Stu-dents theatre and current home to the uni-

versitys Footlights comedy troupe, whichjump-started the careers of scores of Englandscomedy legends, including John Cleese and

Peter Cook.

Getting There & AwayCambridge is well served by trains, thoughnot so well by bus. Trains run at least every30 minutes from Londons Kings Cross andLiverpool St stations (17.90, 45 minutes to1 hours). There are also three trains per hourto Ely (15 minutes) and hourly connectionsto Bury St Edmunds (7.50, 44 minutes) andKings Lynn (9.30, 48 minutes).

From Drummer St bus station there arehourly buses to Stansted airport (9.70, 55minutes), Heathrow (25, 2 up to 3 hours)

and Gatwick (29, 3 hours) airports while aLuton service (12.20, 1 hours) runs everytwo hours.

Buses to Oxford (6, 3 hours) are regularbut take a very convoluted route.

Getting AroundBICYCLE

There are few more bike-friendly cities thanCambridge, and joining the ranks of studentson their mad dashes to lectures or leisurelyrides around town is an experience in itself.No mountain bikes necessary here; mostplaces rent three-speeds.

Cambridge Station Cycles(%307125; www.stationcycles.co.uk; Station Bldg, Station Rd; per half-day/day/week 6/8/16) Handily positioned by the station;free map provided.City Cycle Hire(%365629; www.citycyclehire.com;61 Newnham Rd; per hour/half-day/day/week from3/5/8/15)Mikes Bikes(%312591; 28 Mill Rd; per week/month12/35) Only long-term rentals.

BUS

A free gas-powered City Shuttle runs aroundthe centre stopping at Emmanuel St every15 minutes. Four bus lines run around town

from Drummer St bus station, including bus3 from the train station to the town centre.Dayrider passes (2.70) offer unlimited travelon all buses within Cambridge for one day;

Megarider passes (9.50) are valid for oneweek. Buy them on board.

CAR

Cambridges centre is largely pedestrianised.

Its best to use the well-signposted Park &Ride car parks (1.40 to 1.80) on the out-skirts of town. Shuttle buses run to the centreevery 10 minutes between 7am and 7pm daily,then twice-hourly until 10pm.

TAXI

Contact A1Cabco(%312444)orPanther(%715715)for a taxi.

AROUND CAMBRIDGEGrantchesterPunting, strolling or cycling along the riveror through dreamy flower-speckled meadows

to this too-cute-to-be-true riverside village ofthatched cottages, cosy pubs and chocolate-box pretty gardens is a Cambridge traditiongoing back over a century.

And once here, its an absolute joy to flopinto a deck chair shaded by apple trees andwolf down cream teas and calorific cakes atthe quintessentially EnglishoOrchardtea garden(%01223-845788; www.orchard-grantchester.com; Mill Way;happrox 9.30am-5.30pm), favouritehaunt of the Bloomsbury Group and othercultural icons.

Or to indulge in a post-punt pint, the RedLion (High St) is a lovely pub near the river,

with plenty of nooks and crannies to squirrelyourself away in.Grantchester is 3 miles southeast of Cam-

bridge on the River Granta.

American War CemeteryGlenn Miller, Joseph Kennedy and 3809 moreAmerican servicemen who lost their lives inbattle while based in Britain are commemo-rated at this moving cemetery(%01954-210350;www.abmc.gov/ca.htm; Madingley;h8am-5.30pm mid-AprSep, 8am-5pm Octmid-Apr), 4 miles west of thecity. You can visit the cemetery as part of aCity Sightseeing tour (see p465).

Imperial War MuseumThe romance of the winged war machineis alive and well at Europes biggest aviationmuseum (%835000; www.iwm.org.uk; adult/under 16yr13/free;h10am-6pm mid-MarSep, 10am-4pm Octmid-Mar)in Duxford, 9 miles south of Cambridgeby the motorway. Almost 200 lovingly waxedaircraft from dive bombers to biplanes, Spit-fire to Concorde are housed on this vast air-field, over which grown men scurry as thoughthey just pulled their noses from boyhoodBigglesbooks.

This airfield was no idle choice for the

museum: it was a frontline fighter station inWWII, and played a crucial role in the piv-otal Battle of Britain. It was the home of thefamous Dam Buster squadron of Lancasters,and today is home to the Royal Air ForcesRed Arrows squadron, which performs allkinds of celestial trickery at airshows through-out the world.

Also included is the stunning American AirMuseumhangar, designed by Norman Foster,which has the largest collection of Americancivil and military aircraft outside the USA.Look out for the flying fortress MemphisBelle,which flew from here. The museums

legendary airshows of modern and vintageplanes are some of the best youll ever see(see the website for dates) and battlefieldscenes are displayed in the land warfarehall, where you can check out WWII tanksand artillery. Kids will enjoy the adventureplayground and the flight simulator. And aswanky new AirSpace hangar is also set toopen in 2007.

From Monday to Saturday, Stagecoach busC7 runs to Duxford (45 minutes) from Cam-bridge Drummer St bus station, via the trainstation, every 20 minutes until approximately6pm; show your bus ticket and youll get a

reduced admission rate into the museum.On Sundays and Bank Holidays, Myalls runsservices every two hours from 11am to about5.25pm.

ELY%01353 / pop 15,102An easy and rewarding day trip from Cam-bridge, Ely (ee-lee) is a charming and historiccity-town with a dazzling cathedral, scru-pulously tidy Georgian and medieval centreand pretty riverside walks running out intothe eerie fens around it. Its a thriving place,and while it used to be something of a joke

that such a diminutive town could technicallyrank as a city, these days its one of the fastest-growing cities in Europe. The odd name harksback to the days when Ely was an island ma-rooned amid the undrained fens, which wereinhabited by an abundance of eels that stillmake it into local cooking pots today.

InformationThe tourist office (%662062; [email protected]; 29St Marys St;h10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Mon-Fri,10am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)makes accommoda-tion bookings and has maps, and dishes outleaflets on the towns Eel Trail walking tour,

studded by modern works of art. Ask hereabout guided walking tours, including ghostlynight-time tours. Banks and ATMs can befound along High St.

SightsELY CATHEDRAL

Not only dominating the town but visibleacross the flat fenland for vast distances, theghostly silhouette of Ely Cathedral (%667735;www.cathedral.ely.anglican.org; adult/child/concession 5.20/free/4.50;h7am-7pm Easter-Aug, 7.30am-6pm Mon-Sat,7.30am-5pm Sun Sep-Easter) is locally dubbed theShip of the Fens.

Walking into the early-12th-century Roman-esque nave, youre immediately struck by itsclean, uncluttered lines and lofty sense of space.The cathedral is renowned for its entrancingceilings and the masterly 14th-century octa-gon and lantern tower, which soar upwards inshimmering colours that are well worthy of acrick in your neck for gazing at them.

The vast 14th-century Lady Chapel is thebiggest in England; its filled with eerily emptyniches that once held statues of saints andmartyrs. They were hacked out unceremoni-ously by iconoclasts during the English CivilWar. However, the astonishingly delicate trac-

ery and carving remain.Ely Cathedral was a centre of pilgrimage formany centuries thanks to the 7th-century queenof Northumbria, Etheldreda, who founded an

WORTH THE TRIP

An adorable 16th-century thatched pink

cottage in the country, the Pink Geranium

(%01763-260215; www.pinkgeranium.co.uk; Sta-tion Rd, Melbourn; mains 18-27;hlunch & dinnerTue-Sat, lunch Sun) is the kind of place youwish youd brought your tweeds and wel-

lies, and fasted for a week in preparation.

Rumoured to have been Prince Charlesfavourite when studying at Cambridge, 10

miles north, its now a multi-award-winning

restaurant and the archetypal English coun-

try getaway, surrounded by neatly snipped

gardens, and full of cosy lounges and toned-

down chintz.

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abbey here in 673. A colourful character, Ethelshrugged off the fact she had been twice marriedin her determination to become a nun. She was

canonised shortly after her death.There are free guided tours of the cathedral,and an octagon and roof tour (8 includingadmission).

Near the entrance theres a small but gleam-ing stained-glass museum (%665025; www.stainedglassmuseum.com; adult/child 3.50/2.50)that lets you geteye to eye with saints, misshapen monsters andall manner of domestic barbarity through vividglasswork from the 14th century onwards.

To lap up a good singsong in splendidsurroundings, Choral Sunday service is at10.30am and evensong is at 5.30pm Mondayto Saturday, 3.45pm on Sunday.

OTHER SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Historic sites cluster about the cathedrals toes.Within spitting distance of the tower are boththe former Bishops Palace, now used as a nursinghome, and Kings School, which keeps the cathe-dral supplied with fresh-faced choristers.

A short hop across St Marys Green is theattractive half-timbered Oliver Cromwells House(%662062; adult/child 3.95/2.70;h10am-5pm Apr-Oct,11am-4pm Nov-Mar), where Englands warty war-monger lived with his family from 1636 to1646, when he was the tithe collector of Ely.The house now has Civil War exhibits, por-

traits and waxworks and echoes with cannedcommentaries of among other things thegreat mans grisly death, exhumation andposthumous decapitation.

More town history can be explored in ElyMuseum(%666655; www.elymuseum.org.uk; adult/child3/free;h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun May-Oct,

10.30am-4pm Wed-Mon Nov-Apr), which is housed inthe Old Gaol House complete with prisonerscells and their scrawled graffiti.

Ely is also a great place for rummagingthrough antiques, and signs lead down to theriver and bargain-hunting heaven Waterside An-tiques Centre (%667066; The Wharf;h9.30am-5.30pmMon-Sat, 11.30am-5pm Sun). From here, charmingriverside ambles flank the Great Ouse, whichbrims with activity, from Olympic rowersand riverboats to swans and hungry ducks.The towpath winds up- and downstream: fora quiet walk, turn left; turn right for the puband tea garden. If you continue along this path

youll see the Fens stretching to the horizon.

SleepingoCathedral House (%662124; www.cathedralhouse.co.uk; 17 St Marys St; s/d 45/75;pn) Plenty oflove has gone into the restoration of this gor-geous Georgian house, which is chock-a-blockwith fascinating antiques and curios. The indi-

vidually decorated rooms are graced by origi-nal and period features, even in the bathrooms.Add to this a walled garden, converted stablesand a central position and youre set.

Waterside (%614329; www.29waterside.org.uk; 29Waterside; d 60;n)This pocket-sized B&B is in a

wonderfully character-rich 18th-century oak-beamed and wooden-floored building nearthe waterfront. Its furnished with reclaimedpine and has a cute walled garden.

EatingSlippery eels are still a local delicacy dished upin several of the restaurants in Ely.

Almonry(%666360; High St; snacks 1.50-4, lunch 7-9;h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)Vying for thebest setting award, this traditional teashopcosies up to the cathedral, spilling into at-tractive gardens left of the Lady Chapel. Al-ternatively, you can shelter in its atmospheric

12th-century vaulted undercroft. Meals hereare simple, but theres a also a wide range ofcaffeinated pick-me-ups.

Old Fire Engine House(%662582; St Marys St; mainsabout 15.50;h10.30am-5.30pm & 7.30pm-9pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5.30pm Sun)Dining at this delightfullyhomespun restaurant and art gallery feelslike eating at a friends. Backed by beautifulgardens and housing various intimate nooks,it serves classic seasonal and local dishes (withrefills on request) and its afternoon cream teasare excellent.

Getting There & Away

Ely is on the A10, 15 miles northeast of Cam-bridge. Following the Fen Rivers Way (mapavailable from tourist offices), its a lovely17-mile towpath walk.

Buses 19 and X12 run every hour fromCambridges Drummer St bus station (onehour), or in Ely from the bus stop on MarketSt. Trains are much quicker and more fre-quent (15 minutes, every 20 minutes). Thereare also twice-hourly trains to Peterborough(7.40, 35 minutes) and Norwich (12.20, 55minutes), and hourly services to Kings Lynn(5.60, 30 minutes).

PETERBOROUGH%01733 / pop 156,061The sprawling, shopping-mad city of Peter-borough is home to a remarkable cathedralthat alone justifies it as a day-trippers des-tination from Cambridge or London. Andwhile the citys high-gloss shopping malls areunlikely to quicken the pulse of visitors, theydo inject a lively buzz into its streets. A scat-tering of other mildly interesting attractionsbeef up the towns credentials, but really, seethe cathedral and you can leave happy.

Peterboroughs bus and train stations arean easy walk west of the city centre. The touristoffice (%452336; www.visitpeterborough.com; 3-5 MinsterPrecincts;h9am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-5pm Tue, 10am-4pm Sat)is in front of the cathedrals west front,and has information on guided walking and

ghost tours (adult/child 4/2). It also has in-formation on other attractions in the vicinity,including a steam railway and reconstructedBronze Age roundhouses at Flag Fen.

Peterborough CathedralEngland may be filled with fine cathedralsboasting ostentatious faades, but few canrival the instant wow factor of Peterbor-

oughs unique early-13th-century westernfront, with its three deep yawning arches andarrow-sharp crests.

Visitors enter the cathedral (%355300; www.peterborough-cathedral.org.uk; requested donation 3;

h9am-5.15pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun), which wasfounded in 1118, through an odd 14th-centuryporch that peeks out between the cavernousarches like a dog from its kennel. Inside, youllbe immediately struck by the height of themagnificent three-storeyed Norman naveand by its lightness, created by the mellowlocal stone and fine clerestory windows. Thenave is topped by a breathtaking early-13th-

century painted-timber ceiling that is one ofthe earliest and most important of its kind inEurope, and still sports much of its originaldiamond-patterned paintwork.

Press on below the Gothic tower, which waspainstakingly reconstructed in the 19th cen-tury, to the northern choir aisle and youll findthe rather plain tombstone of Henry VIIIsfirst wife, the tragic Catherine of Aragon,buried here in 1536. Her divorce, engineeredby the king because she could not produce amale heir, led to the Reformation in England.Her only child (a daughter) was not even al-lowed to attend her funeral. Every 29 January

there is a procession in the cathedral to com-memorate her death.Just beyond this is the cathedrals wonder-

ful 15th-century eastern tip, which has superbfan vaulting thought to be the work of mastermason John Wastell, who worked on KingsCollege Chapel in Cambridge.

Loop around into the southern aisle, andyoull find gold lettering marking the spotwhere the ill-fated Mary Queen of Scots wasonce buried. On the accession of her son,James, to the throne, her body was moved toWestminster Abbey.

Getting There & AwayThere are regular trains to London (22.30, 50minutes to 1 hours), Cambridge (11.90, 48minutes) and Ely (7.40, 35 minutes).

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1INFORMATION

Bus Station............................. B1

Waterside Antiques Centre.... C2

Old Fire Engine House............. A2Almonry................................... B2

Waterside................................ C2Cathedral House....................... B1

Oliver Cromwell's House.......(see 1)King's School............................ B2Ely Museum.............................. B1

Ely Cathedral............................ B2Bishop's Palace......................... B2

Tourist Office.......................... A2

To Cambridge(15mi)

ELY

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SLEEPING & EATING

Denmark House(%378798; www.denmarkhousebb.co.uk;Hall St; s/d 33/55;n) Situated in the villagesheart, this modest-fronted little town-houseB&B is a Grade IIlisted building with a longhistory, and parts dating back to medievaltimes. It has cosy beamed rooms with dcoryour granny would just love.

Black Lion Hotel & Restaurant (%312356; www

.blacklionhotel.net; the Green; s/d from 88/120) A gor-geous little 10-room hotel on the village green,the 17th-century Black Lion has individuallystyled rooms, some with period style andromantic four-posters and some altogethermore quirky, such as the zebra-striped fam-ily room. It also has a superb restaurant (setmenu 28).

Scutchers Bistro (%310200; www.scutchers.com;Westgate St; mains 14-19;hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat)Re-nowned throughout the Stour Valley for itsexquisite menu of classic and more contem-porary British dishes, Scutchers nonethelesshas a wonderfully unpretentious bistro feel,

cheerfully painted and wood-beamed. Its justwest of the Black Lion.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Buses leave from the High St outside the postoffice. There are hourly services Monday toSaturday to Bury St Edmunds (52 minutes)calling at Sudbury (10 minutes). More servicesalso shuttle back and forth to Sudbury (10minutes) twice hourly during the week.

Lavenham%01787 / pop 1738Theres barely a straight line in the whole of

topsy-turvy Lavenham, Eastern Englandsloveliest medieval wool town. Crammed intoits centre are around 300 exquisitely preservedbuildings that lean and lurch like old folksbalancing their old wooden bones against eachother. Lavenham reached its peak in the heady15th-century wool wealth days, after which thetown quietly fossilised. So modern-day visitorsare treated to a remarkably complete medievaltown where pretty, pink thatched cottages rubshoulders with timber-framed and pargetedhouses that now house curiosity shops, artgalleries, quaint tearooms and ancient inns.

The tourist office (%248207; [email protected]; Lady St;h10am-4.45pm Apr-Oct, 11am-3pm Sat &Sun Mar & Nov)offers guided walks (3.25) aroundthe village departing at 2.30pm Saturday and11am and 2.30pm Sunday.

SIGHTS

Many of Lavenhams most enchanting build-ings cluster along High St, Water St andaround Market Pl, which is dominated bythe early-16th-century guildhall(NT;%247646;adult/child 3.50/1.50;h11am-5pm Apr-Oct, 11am-4pmSat & Sun Mar, 11am-4pm Thu-Sun Nov-Dec), a superbexample of a close-studded, timber-framedbuilding and now a local history museum,

with displays on the wool trade and weavingdemonstrations on Thursdays.

Also on Market Pl, the atmospheric 14th-century Little Hall (%247179; Market Pl; adult/child2.50/free;h2-5.30pm Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun Easter-Oct) isanother gem, with soft ochre plastering, tim-ber frame and crown-post roof. Once home toa successful wool merchant, its now a privateresidence open to the public.

At the villages high southern end risesthe soaring steeple of the medieval Church ofSt Peter & St Paul(h8.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 8.30am-3.30pm Oct-Mar), which is a further testament toLavenhams past prosperity. Built between

1485 and 1525, it is approached by avenuesof box hedges.

SLEEPING & EATING

Brett Farm(%248533; www.brettfarm.com; off Water St;s/d 35/60;pn)The budget-minded will do

very well at this modern farmhouse bungalow,a very friendly, unpretentious place with on-site stables, and comfortable spotless roomswith wicker furniture and textured ceilings.Its a short, pleasant walk south of the village.Carriage and bike hire are available.oLavenham Priory (%247404; www.lavenham

priory.co.uk; Water St; s/d from 75/95;pn)A rare treat,

this sumptuously restored 15th-century build-ing was once home to Benedictine monks, thenmedieval cloth merchants, and still perfectlycaptures its Elizabethan spirit with cavernousfireplaces, leaded windows and exquisite periodrooms. Now an upmarket six-room B&B, itmust be booked well in advance.

Swan Hotel (%247477; www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk; High St; d 105-235;pn) A warren of stun-ning timber-framed 15th-century buildingsnow shelters one of the regions best-knownhotels. Rooms are suitably spectacular affairs,some with immense fireplaces, colossal beamsand magnificent four-posters. Elsewhere thehotel cultures a gentlefolks country-club feel.The modern British restaurant in the loftyGreat Hall has also won acclaim (set lunch/dinner 20/28.50).

Angel (%247388; www.theangelhotel.com; Market Pl;mains 9-13;pn) Eating is a deceptively in-formal affair at this lovely 15th-century inn,which actually serves award-winning modernBritish cuisine, with lip-smacking steak-and-ale pies the speciality of the house. The Angelalso has beautifully appointed country-stylerooms (single/double from 55/80).

GETTING THERE & AWAYChambers Buses connects Lavenham withBury St Edmunds (30 minutes) and Sudbury(20 minutes), with an hourly bus (until 6pmMonday to Saturday, no service on Sunday)from Bury St Edmunds to Colchester via Sud-bury and Lavenham. There are no direct busesfrom Cambridge; you must go via Sudbury,also the location of the nearest train station.

BURY ST EDMUNDS%01284 / pop 36,218A new buzz with an old message has settledover the genteel market town of Bury St Ed-

munds of late. Once home to one of the mostpowerful monasteries of medieval Europe, thetown has just seen the completion of its finecathedral with a new Gothic lantern tower a mere 500 years after the present buildingwas begun. However, Bury has long attractedtravellers for its powerful history, atmosphericruins, handsome Georgian architecture andbustling agricultural markets, still held at AngelHill on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Otherscome to the town on a mission to investigatethe other reason for its fame: beer. GreeneKing, the famous Suffolk brewer, is based herewith its doors wide open to visitors.

HistoryBurys slogan Shrine of a King, Cradle of theLaw recalls two defining events in its history.The towns namesake St Edmund was the lastking of East Anglia, decapitated by the Danesin 855. The martyrs body was reburied herein 903, and began to trot out ghostly miraclesfrom the grave. His shrine became a centre ofpilgrimage and the core of a new Benedictinemonastery. At its height the abbey was one ofthe most famous and wealthy in the country,at least until Henry VIII got his grubby handson it in 1536, during the dissolution of themonasteries.

Cradle of the Law refers to how in 1214the English barons drew up a petition thatwould form the basis of Magna Carta here in

the abbey, thus setting the country on the roadto a constitutional government.

Orientation & InformationBury is easily navigated thanks to Abbot Bald-wins original 11th-century grid layout oneof the first in the country. The train station is900m north of the tourist office, with frequentbuses to the centre. The bus station is in the

towns heart.Burys tourist office (%764667; [email protected]

.uk; 6 Angel Hill;h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm SunEaster-Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Nov-Easter)has maps and advice and is also the start-ing point for guided walking tours (3) thatdepart at 2.30pm daily Easter to September.Audio tours (adult/child 2.50/1.50) of theabbey ruins are also available here.SightsABBEY & PARK

Now a picturesque ruin residing in beautifulgardens behind the cathedral, the once all-

powerful abbey (admission free;hdawn-dusk) stillimpresses despite the townspeople having madeoff with much of the stone, and St Edmundsgrave and bones having disappeared long ago.

You enter the park via one of two well-preserved old gates: opposite the touristoffice, the staunch mid-14th-century GreatGateis intricately decorated but neverthelessominously defensive, complete with battle-ments, portcullis and arrow slits. The otherentrance sits further up along Angel Hill,where a gargoyle-studded early-12th-centuryNorman Towerlooms beside the cathedral.

Just beyond the Great Gate is a peaceful

garden where the Great Courtwas once a hive ofactivity. Just beyond is a dovecote that marksthe only remains of the Abbots Palace. Thebest-conserved remains of this once mightyabbey church are part of the western front andSamson Tower, which were borrowed by housesbuilt into them. In front of Samson Tower is abeautiful statue of St Edmundby Dame ElisabethFrink (1976). The rest of the abbey spreadseastward like a ragged skeleton, with variouslumps and pillars hinting at its immense size.Just north of the church lie more clusteredremains of monastic buildings.

ST EDMUNDSBURY CATHEDRAL

Completed in 2005, the 45m-high Millen-nium Tower of St Edmundsbury Cathedral (StJames;%754933; www.stedscathedral.co.uk; requested

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donation 3;h7.30am-6pm)is a vision in virginalLincolnshire limestone, and its traditionalGothic-style construction gives a good ideaof how the towers of many other English ca-thedrals must once have looked fresh fromthe stonemasons chisel.

Most of the rest of the building dates fromthe early 16th century, though the eastern endis postwar 20th-century, and the northern side

was completed in 1990. It began life as a churchand was only made a cathedral in 1914.

The overall effect is light and lofty, with agorgeous hammer-beam roof and a strikingsculpture of the crucified Christ by DameElisabeth Frink in the north transept. Theimpressive entrance porch has a tangibleSpanish influence, a tribute to Abbot Anselm(112148), who opted against pilgrimage toSantiago de Compostela in favour of buildinga church dedicated to St James (Santiago inSpanish) right here.

ST MARYS CHURCH

One of the biggest parish churches in the coun-try, St Maryscontains the tomb of Mary Tudor(Henry VIIIs sister and a one-time queen of

France). Built around 1430, it also has a hostof somewhat vampirish angels swooping fromits roof, and a bell is still rung to mark curfew,as it was in the Middle Ages.

GREENE KING BREWERY

Churning out some of Britains favouritebooze since Victorian times, this famousbrewery (%714297; www.greeneking.co.uk; Crown St;

museum adult/child 2/1, day/evening tours 8/10;hmu-seum 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun, tours noon & 3pmMon-Fri, 10.30am, 12.30pm & 3pm Sat, 11.30am Sun, 7pmWed-Fri Easter-Sep)has a museum and runs tours,after which you can appreciate what all thefuss is about in their brewery tap bar. Toursare popular so book ahead.

MOYSES HALL MUSEUM

Moyses Hall Museum (%706183; Cornhill; adult/child2.60/2.10;h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat &Sun) wows with its impressive 12th-centuryundercroft and tells some particularly grue-some stories in a room dedicated to death,

burial and witchcraft. Among other curiosi-ties, youll discover a mummified cat that waspurposefully buried alive in a buildings walls,

a book bound in the tanned skin of an infa-mous murderer, and an armour-like gibbetthat once displayed executed criminals.

SleepingHamilton House (%703022; [email protected]; 4 Nelson Rd; s/d/tr from 25/48/58;n) Thiswonderfully friendly B&B is in an attractivered-brick Edwardian house with four large,

cheerfully decorated rooms, nearby parkingand a short walk from the town centre. Packedlunches can be arranged on request.

Ounce House (%761779; www.ouncehouse.co.uk;Northgate St; s/d from 65/85;pn)There are onlya few rooms up for grabs at this dignifiedVictorian merchants house, which mixes apersonable atmosphere with pristine country-style rooms and the kind of neat 19th-centuryinterior that makes you sit up straight andmind your Ps and Qs at the breakfast table. Re-quest a room overlooking the walled garden.

Angel Hotel(%714000; www.theangel.co.uk; 3 AngelHill; s/d from 125/135;pniw)Peeking from

behind a shaggy mane of vines, this famousold coaching inn has hosted many a dignitaryin its long history, including fictional celebrityMr Pickwick, who Dickens wrote enjoyed anexcellent roast dinner here. And you canfollow his example in the hotels top-classrestaurant (set dinner 25 to 40). Rooms aresplit between a slick contemporary wing andtraditional Georgian building.

EatingMaison Bleue (%760623; www.maisonbleue.co.uk; 31Churchgate St; mains 9-19, set lunch/dinner 14/24;hlunch& dinner Tue-Sat) This superb seafood bistro is

justly popular with locals for its imaginativepreparations of salmon, skate, monkfish andmore. It has crisp white-linen style, chic wait-ers and colourful marine murals.

Cupola House(%765808; www.the-cupola.com; TheTransverse; mains 16-20, bar food 6-8.50)This grand17th-century apothecarys home, topped bya baroque-style octagonal cupola, is rich withhistoric features. It was recently rescued froma severe state of disrepair and now houses astylish contemporary restaurant with a meatymenu and relaxed atmosphere.

DrinkingNutshell(%764867; The Traverse)Recognised by theGuinness Book of Recordsas Britains small-est, this midget-sized timber-framed pub isan absolute gem and a tourist attraction in

its own right. Mind how you knock back apint here as in the crush you never know whoyoure going to elbow.

Getting There & AwayCentrally placed, Bury is a convenient pointfrom which to explore western Suffolk. Thereare three daily National Express buses to Lon-don (12.60, 2 hours). From Cambridge,

Stagecoach 11 runs to Bury (1 hours) hourlyfrom Monday to Saturday; the last bus backto Cambridge leaves at 7.30pm.

Trains go to Ipswich (6, 30 to 40 minutes,two per hour), Ely (8, 30 minutes, six daily)and hourly to Cambridge (7.50, 45 minutes),all of which have links to London (30, twohours).

For taxis call A1 Cars (%766777) or try therank alongside the market.

AROUND BURY ST EDMUNDSIckworth House & ParkThe puffed-up pomposity of stately home

Ickworth House(NT;%735270; adult/child house & park7/3, park only 3.40/90p;hhouse 1-5pm Fri-Tue mid-MarOct, park 8am-8pm year-round)is palpable fromthe minute you catch sight of its immenseoval rotunda and wide outspread wings. Thebuilding is the whimsical creation of fourthEarl of Bristol and Bishop of Derry Freder-ick Hervey (17301803; see the boxed text,p478), and contains fine paintings by Titian,Gainsborough and Velasquez. Theres also alovely Italian garden, parkland bearing thelandscaping eye of Capability Brown, a deerenclosure and a hide to explore. You can evenimagine yourself a houseguest of the nutty

earl thanks to a swanky new hotel(%

735350;www.ickworthhotel.com; d 180-490;pnis)inthe east wing.

Ickworth is 3 miles southwest of Bury onthe A143. Burtons bus service 344/5 fromBury train station (15 minutes) to Haverhillcan drop you nearby.ALDEBURGH%01728 / pop 2790The adorable little fishing village of Aldeburghpaints a rosy picture of a traditional Brit-ish seaside resort, with ramshackle fishinghuts selling fresh-from-the-nets catch, finerestaurants serving the best fish and chips inthe southeast, a sweeping shingle beach thatis steadily encroaching into the towns heart,and a lively cultural scene.

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1INFORMATION

Taxi Rank............................... B2Bus Station............................. B2

Nutshell.................................. B2

Maison Bleue......................... C3Cupola House........................ B2

Ounce House......................... C2

Hamilton House..................... B2Angel Hotel........................... C3

St Mary 's Church................... C3St Edmundsbury Cathedral..... C3St Edmund Statue.................... C3Samson Towe r.......................(see 2)Norman Tower........................ C3Moyse's Hall Museum.............. B2

Monastic Buildings................... C3Greene King Brewery............... C3Great Gate............................... C3Great Court...........................(see 4)Abbot's Palace......................... C3Abbey...................................... C3

Tourist Office.......................... C2

To Cambridge (30mi)

To Ipswich(26mi)To Ickworth

House (3mi)

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the Rivers Waveney and Little Ouse for 70miles. Meanwhile the Wherrymans Way (www.wherrymansway.net)is a newly launched 35-milewalking and cycling route through the Broads,following the River Yare from Norwich toGreat Yarmouth.

For a real challenge, the Around Norfolk Walkis a 220-mile circuit that combines most ofthe above.

Getting AroundTheres comprehensive travel advice andtimetable information available at PassengerTransport Norfolk (www.passengertransport.norfolk.gov.uk)or you can call the national Traveline(%0870 608 2608).

NORWICH%01603 / pop 121,550Once described as having a pub for every dayof the year and a church for every Sunday,

vibrant Norwich (pronounced norritch) stillhas both in abundance and plenty more be-sides. These days the fabulous medieval woolchurches that crop up on almost every streetcorner house everything from cybercafs toa puppet theatre in a heart-warming demon-stration of how preservation and innovationcan go hand in hand. Choice modern develop-ments and the citys artsy student populationfurther ensure that its steep zigzagging warrenof historic streets brim with activity. The cityis home to a remarkable Norman keep anda marvellous cathedral, and while the cityseconomic clout has waned considerably sinceits medieval heyday, Norfolks capital is stillone of the regions most appealing cities afterCambridge.

HistoryThough Norwichs history stretches back wellover a thousand years, the citys golden agewas during the Middle Ages, when it was Eng-lands most important city besides London.Edward III encouraged Flemish weavers tosettle here in the 14th century, and their ar-rival helped establish the wool industry thatfattened the city and sustained it right through

to the 18th century.Mass immigration from the Low Coun-tries peaked in the troubled 16th century. In1579 more than a third of the towns citizenswere foreigners of a staunch Protestant stock,which proved beneficial during the Civil Warwhen the Protestant parliamentarians causedNorwich little strife.

OrientationThe castle crowns central Norwich, sur-rounded by a compact medieval street plan.Within the circle of river and city walls thereare scattered more than 30 parish churches

and the Anglican cathedral. At the citys heartis its candy-stripe canopied market (Market Sq;happrox 8am-4.30pm), one of the biggest andoldest markets in England, running since1025. The enormous modern Forum build-ing houses the tourist office.InformationBanks and ATMs can be found around theMarket Sq.Boots (%767970; 19 Castle Mall) Well-stocked pharmacy.Library (%774774; Forum;h9am-8pm Mon-Fri,9am-5pm Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun) Free internet forthose with ID and the patience to fill out a few forms.Norfolk & Norwich University Hospital (%286286;Colney Lane) Four miles west of the centre.Norwich Internet Caf(All Saints Church, Westlegate;per 20min 1;h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun)Post office(%761635; 84-85 Castle Mall)Tourist office (%727927; www.visitnorwich.co.uk;

h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat & 10.30am-4.30pm Sun Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar) Just inside theForum on Millennium Plain.

SightsNORWICH CASTLE MUSEUM &

ART GALLERY

A solid sentinel overlooking medieval andmodern Norwich from its hilltop perch,this massive Norman castle keep (%493636;www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; castle & museum adult/child4.30/3.15, art gallery & exhibitions 4.30/3.15, all museum

zones 6.30/4.60;h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm SunJun-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-May) built in 1160 rankshighly in the list of best-preserved examples ofAnglo-Norman military architecture, despitea 19th-century face-lift and a gigantic shop-ping centre grafted to one side.

Its now home to a superb interactivemuseumand an art gallery to boot. The mu-seum crams in a wealth of history, including

lively exhibits on Boudicca and the Iceni, theAnglo-Saxons and Vikings, natural historydisplays and even an Egyptian gallery com-plete with mummies. Every room is enlivenedwith plenty of fun for kids, but best of all isthe atmospheric keep itself, which sends shiv-ers down the spine with graphic displays ongrisly punishments meted out in its days as

a medieval prison. Guided tours are offeredaround the battlements and dungeons.

Meanwhile the art gallery houses paint-ings of the acclaimed 19th-century NorwichSchool of landscape painting founded by JohnCrome, and trust the English the worldslargest collection of ceramic teapots.

A claustrophobic tunnel from the castleemerges into a reconstructed WWI trench at

the Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum (%493649;adult/child 3/1.60;h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat), which de-tails the history of the local regiment since 1830.It has a less dramatic entrance from the road.

THE FORUM & ORIGINS

The all-glass Forum is the most impressivebuilding to hit Norwichs skyline in decades,

NORFOLK, WHERE FOKES DEW

DIFFRUNT

Norfolks inhabitants are duly proud of

their reputation for bloody-mindedness. To

quote a favourite local yarn, a new bishop

arrived at his new diocese to be promptly

warned by his predecessor that if he wanted

to lead anyone here he should first find out

where they were going and walk in front ofthem. Its often said that it was this dog-

gedness that helped make the region a

runaway commercial success in the Middle

Ages. Well let you decide for yourselves if

the label still sticks.

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NORWICH

To Norwich InternationalAirport (4mi)

To BlicklingHall (15mi)

To AbbeyHotel (180m)

To Edmar Lodge(0.3mi);University of EastAnglia; Sainsbury Centrefor Visual Arts (1.5m);Norfolk & NorwichUniversity Hospital (4mi)

To Delia'sRestaurant (400m);

Norwich CityFootball Club

(400m)

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INFORMATION

Bus Station............................... B4

Theatre Royal........................... B4St Andrew's & Blackfriars Hall.. C3Norwich Puppet Theatre.......... C2

Norwich Arts Ce ntre................ A3Mercy...................................... D3Liquid....................................... C3

Ten Bells.................................. A3Adam & Eve's.......................... D2

Waffle House........................... B3St Benedict's Restaurant........... B3Pulse Caf................................ B3Greenhouse.............................. B3Caley's Cocoa Caf.................. B3

Restaurant........................... C3Briton Arms Coffee House &Adlard's Restaur ant................. A3

Travelodge............................... B4No3 Princes St.......................... C3Maid's Head Hotel................... C3Georgian House H otel............. A4By Appointment....................... B2

Strangers' Hall.......................... B3St Julian's Church.................... C4 Museum.............................. C3Royal Norfolk RegimentalOrigins.....................................(see 4)Norwich Cathedral................... C3Norwich Castle........................... C3Museum & Art Gallery.............(see 9)Forum........................................ B4Dragon Hall............................... D4Broads Boatrains........................ C2Bridewell Museum..................... C3

Tourist Office............................. B4

Post Office................................. C4Norwich Internet Caf ............... C4Boots Pharmacy......................... C4

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and is home to Norfolks main library, theregional BBC and the tourist office. Heretoo is family-focused Origins (%727920; www.originsnorwich.co.uk; the Forum; adult/child 5.95/3.95;

h10am-5.15pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4.45pm Sun), a won-derful interactive museum that surroundsyou with film, images and noise in its explora-tion of 2000 years of regional history. Thereare numerous buttons to push and games

to play; you can have a go at speaking theoriginal Norfolk dialect (not easy), floodingthe Norfolk Fens or simply sit back for storytime with weird and wonderful tales of theareas mythology.

ELM HILL

An utterly charming medieval cobbled streetof crooked timber beams and doors, intrigu-ing shops and snug cafs, this street is also thecentre of the local antique business. From here,walk down Wensum St to Tombland, wherethe market was originally located. Despite itsominous overtones, tomb is an old Norse

word for empty, hence space for a market.

NORWICH CATHEDRAL

Focal point of the city, the creamy-colouredAnglican cathedral (%218321; suggested donation4;h7.30am-7pm May-Sep, 7.30am-6pm Oct-Apr)is anundeniably fine spectacle, its barbed spiresoaring higher than any in England exceptSalisbury, while the size of its cloisters issecond to none. But theres far more to thiscathedral than its impressive scale.

Begun in 1096, it has managed to hang ontoits character as a great Anglo-Norman abbeychurch more than any other English cathedralexcept Durham. However, the buildings mostrenowned feature came in 1463 when its navewas topped by magnificent Gothic rib-vaultingpunctuated with around 1200 sculpted roofbosses depicting bible stories. Together theyrepresent one of the finest achievements ofEnglish medieval masonry, although youllfind yourself longing for a telescope to viewthem in all their finely detailed glory.

Outside the cathedrals eastern end is thegrave of WWI heroine Edith Cavell, a Norfolknurse who was shot by the Germans for help-ing POWs to escape. The cathedral close alsocontains handsome houses and the old chapelof King Edward VI School (where English heroAdmiral Nelson was educated). Its current stu-dents make up the choir, which performs in atleast one of the three services held daily.

ST JULIANS CHURCH

Tucked away in a tiny alley, this simple church(%767380; St Julians Alley; admission free;h7.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar) is a shrine to Ju-lian of Norwich and has been a centre forpilgrimage for centuries. Writer and mysticJulian (also known as Juliana, 1342c 1429)wrote down her religious visions in a collec-tion called The Revelations of Divine Love,

which is unparalleled in English literature forits clarity and depth of perception. Sadly thecell where she wrote the book was torn downin the Reformation; much of the building wasreconstructed after WWII.

OTHER MUSEUMS

Bridewell Museum(%629127; Bridewell Alley; adult/child3/1.60;h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat Apr-Oct), housed in aformer merchants house and 14th-centurybridewell or prison for women, beggars andtramps, is filled with fascinating parapherna-lia and reconstructions of Norwichs principalindustries right through to a room devoted to

the Norwich City football team.About 250m west of here, along St An-drews St and Charing Cross is the maze-likeearly-14th-century town house Strangers Hall(%667229; adult/child 3/1.60;h10.30am-4.30pm Wed &Sat), with atmospheric rooms furnished in pe-riod styles from Tudor to Victorian. Anotherremarkable medieval town house, this timebuilt by a local businessman and four-timesmayor of Norwich, Dragon Hall(%663922; www.dragonhall.org; 115-123 King St; adult/child 5/3;h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Dec)has a stunning crown-postroof and timber-framed great hall from 1430.Its famous for its darling little carved green-and-orange dragon waving flame-like wingsand sticking its tongue out amid the timberceiling beams.

SAINSBURY CENTRE FOR VISUAL ARTS

Reopened in mid-2006 with a swish newwing, the Sainsbury Centre (%593199; www.scva.org.uk; admission free;h11am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Wed)was Norman Fosters first high-profile build-ing and is filled with an eclectic collection ofworks by Picasso, Moore, Degas and Bacon,displayed beside art from Africa, the Pacificand the Americas. Its to the west of the city (a20-minute bus trip from Castle Meadow).

ToursCity Sightseeing (%0871 666 000; www.city-sightseeing.com; adult/child 8/4;hhourly 10am-4pm Apr-Oct)

runs a hop-on hop-off bus service stoppingat nine destinations around the city centreincluding city hall. Or if you prefer to potterabout on the river, Broads Boatrains(%701701;www.cityboats.co.uk; adult/child 8.50/5.50)runs cruisesfrom Station Quay off Elm Hill and rents outself-drive boats.

Sleeping

BUDGETNorwich has no hostel and scarce budgetoptions. Most of the more affordable B&Bsare outside the ring road, and around thetrain station.

Abbey Hotel (%612915; 16 Stracey Rd; s/d 24/44,d with bathroom 58;n)This Victorian terracedhouse is one of the best-value B&Bs in a rowof them up behind the station. It has simple,prim-and-proper floral rooms and pleasantservice.

Norwich Central Travelodge (%0870 191 1797;www.travelodge.co.uk; Queens Rd; r 26-55;n) Whocares if it has personality when its new, cen-

tral and has early-booking online deals in anexpensive city? This no-frills addition to thechain is close to the bus station and has pay-and-display parking alongside.

Edmar Lodge(%615599; www.edmarlodge.co.uk; 64Earlham Rd; s/d from 35/40;pn)This big, blonde-brick B&B with straightforward rooms and afamilial atmosphere is situated in a residentialarea a 10-minute walk from town.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

Georgian House Hotel (%615655; www.georgian-hotel.co.uk; 32-34 Unthank Rd; s/d from 60/80;pn)Arambling, elegant Victorian house oppositethe Roman Catholic cathedral houses this28-room boutique hotel, which has spaciousmodern rooms and a tree-filled garden. Therestaurant wins much praise for its use of localecofriendly ingredients.

No 3 Princes St(%662692; www.3princes-norwich.co.uk; 3 Princes St; s/d 60/85;n) This recently re-stored, handsome red-brick Georgian homein the citys heart has four absolutely beauti-ful and individually styled en suite rooms.Three of them overlook St Andrews opposite,the other has a view of a pretty gravel-filledback courtyard. The continental breakfastsare eaten in your room.oBy Appointment (%630730; 25-29 St

Georges St; s/d from 70/110;ni)This fabulouslytheatrical and delightfully eccentric B&B oc-cupies three heavy-beamed 15th-century mer-

chants houses, also home to a labyrinthinerestaurant well known for its classic Englishfare. Its antique furniture, creaky charm andsuperb breakfasts make this one of the bestdeals around. Book ahead.

Maids Head Hotel(%0870 609 6110; www.corushotels.com; Tombland; s/d weeknights 105/125, weekendsper person 51;pni) The stunning black-and-white exterior is the most arresting thing

about this 700-year-old coaching inn near thecathedral. Theres altogether less personalityinside and its 83 modern rooms are comfort-able but somewhat soulless.

EatingBUDGET

Norwichs strong vegetarian scene is a greatsource of budget value.oPulse Caf (%765562; Labour in Vain Yard,

Guildhall Hill; snacks 2-4, mains 6-7;h10am-11pm Mon-Sat)You neednt be vegetarian to fall for thisfunky lounge bar in the old fire-station stables,which offers outstanding meat-free fare from

enchilada to risotto. Eat in the tranquil court-yard or beside lovely low-arched windowsinside. The drinks list is surprisingly lengthy,

jumping between wines, organic ciders, beersand fruit liqueurs.

Waffle House(%612790; 39 St Giles St; waffles 3-7;h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun) Delicioussmells encase this small and ever-popularBelgian waffles caf, which uses quality or-ganic and free-range produce to concoct along list of sweet and savoury creations. Its

very family-friendly, but just as beloved bystudents and professionals.

Greenhouse (%631007; 42-48 Bethel St; snacks &mains 3-7;h10am-5pm

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