German Heritage Walking/Driving Tour

Downtown Austin, Texas

Saengerfest (statewide singing contest), Austin 1889

Willkommen! Explore Texas’ German Heritage in Austin

The first concerted effort to bring German settlers to Texas came in 1831, when Johann Friedrich Ernst (aka Friedrich Dirks), from the Grand Duchy of Oldenburg, received a grant of more than 4,000 acres in Stephen F. Austin’s colony. He and his family were on a ship from New York to New Orleans and planned to move to Missouri, but changed their destination when they learned of favorable conditions in Texas. Within a generation, a wide swath of the state from the coastal plain to the Hill Country included dozens of German-settled towns; later generations of Germans also settled in North Texas. Many of these place names, including New Ulm, Frelsburg, Bleiblerville, Oldenburg, Weimar, Schulenburg, Gruene, New Braunfels, Boerne, Fredericksburg and Luckenbach, still dot the map today. There are many examples of German heritage still visible on the Texas landscape, from dance halls and shooting clubs to churches and schools. This walking tour takes you through downtown Austin and the Capitol Complex area, highlighting historic German homes and businesses, some still vibrant and some long passed to modern development. The Texas Historical Commission hopes you will take this opportunity to celebrate the generations of German immigrants who have helped shape the state of Texas. Learn about other German-Texan heritage sites across the state at texashistoryapp.com

Stops along the tour route.

1. Turner Hall 2. Bertram Store 3. Wahrenberger House 4. Goodman Building 5. Mauthe-Myrick Mansion 6. Fischer House 7. Texas Military Institute 8. Henry H. and Bertha Sterzing Ziller

House 9. Henry Hirschfeld House and Cottage 10. Walter Tips Building

11. Kreisle Building 12. J.P. Schneider Store 13. F. Weigl Iron Works 14. Hofheintz-Reissig Store 15. Joseph and Susanna Dickinson Hannig

House 16. Hannig Building 17. German Free School 18. Old General Land Office Building 19. Scholz Garten

STOP 1: Turner Hall, 201 W. 18th Street (now Scottish Rite Theater)

This building has a history that dates to 1872, when the Scottish Rite Society built Turner Hall. It served as a men's club and exercise facility (turnen = to do physical exercises, in German). In 1914, the Ben Hur Temple bought the building with the intention of building a training center for its members. Shortly thereafter, the Scottish Rite bodies of Austin decided that they should build a "cathedral" on the site. They bought the Ben Hur Temple for $15,000 and in 1915 the building was dedicated. The building served to state cultural events with an auditorium seating 800. A handsome pipe organ was installed, and it served the Shriners of Austin for many years. The building is unique in that it blends southwest mission style of architecture with Arabic accents. It is a Recorded Texas Historic Landmark (RTHL).

STOP 2: The Bertram Store, 1602 Guadalupe Street (now Clay Pit Restaurant)

Rudolph Bertram arrived in Austin in 1853 and began a trading post. In 1880 he began a wholesale grocery business, saloon and general store (1st floor) that served Austin for decades. Living quarters were on the second floor. During the 1880s the Treasury of the Capitol was stored in the wine cellar. The town of Bertram (Burnet County) was named for Rudolph Bertram. The building is currently the Clay Pit Restaurant. The Bertram Store Building is a City of Austin landmark and listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

STOP 3: Wahrenberger House, 208 W. 14th Street Mr. Jacob Bickler's school for boys, the Texas German and English Academy, occupied the house from 1880 to 1886. Later, the Wahrenberger house was used to house female students of the German-American Ladies College (1873). It served as a boarding house and school for the young ladies for only five years. One of the descendants of Charles Klein, original owner of the property, John Wahrenberger, a skilled baker, who married Charles Klein's daughter, Caroline. He came to Texas from Switzerland in 1839. He fought the Indians and became one of the first permanent citizens of Austin. John Wahrenberger operated a bakery on Congress Avenue for years. John and Caroline Wahrenberger's daughter, Mary, received her formal education in Switzerland and returned to live in the house and raise her family with the help of her husband, H. E. Lindeman.

STOP 4: Goodman Building, 202 W. 13th Street

This two-story brick Victorian structure located only a block from the Capitol grounds was constructed in the 1880s or early 1890s for Joseph Goodman, who operated a grocery in the building until 1924. Jacob Bickler's German and English Academy, an elite preparatory school, was on the upper floor for a short time in the early 1890s. Bickler was a teacher and school administrator who was born in Sobernheim, Germany, and is buried in Oakwood Cemetery. The Cloak Room bar has operated in the basement for decades. The building is a City of Austin Landmark, Recorded Texas Historic Landmark, and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

circa 1914

STOP 5: The Mauthe-Myrick Mansion, 408 West 14th Street (now Texas Cotton Ginners’ Association headquarters)

Rafael Mauthe (1820-79), a German stonemason, built this house in 1877 on land purchased from the noted architect Abner Cook in 1856. Mauthe came from Sprachlingen, Wurttemberg, and settled in Austin in 1850. His wife, Mary Edwin, was Swedish. They had three sons, William, August, Henry, and daughter Matilda. Several houses were built on this property and from the census records it appears that the houses were rented out to family members on Mary's side of the family and later to local families. Much later, a boarding house for UT students was operated on the property by Mrs. N. L. Dill, originally from Goliad. In 1898 the home was sold to Anne Katherine Brown Myrick (d. 1947), the daughter of Texas Supreme Court Justice T.J. Brown, who also lived here. The ornate porch added in 1903-04, features detailing of the Greek Revival and Classical styles. The Mauthe - Myrick House is a City of Austin landmark and an RTHL.

STOP 6: Fischer House, 1008 West Avenue

Born in Prussia (a German kingdom), Joseph Fischer (1826–1889) built this house in 1882 with the help of his son Francis. Both were notable stonemasons, and it served as their office and residence for the family. Built in the High Victorian Italianate style, the house showcases their craftsmanship in elaborate ornamentation of brick and native limestone. It remained in the family until it was sold as part of the estate of Francis' wife Katherine in 1938. Since then, the building has been a residence, barbershop, bookstore, and office. It’s a City of Austin Historic Landmark, Recorded Texas Historic Landmark, and National Register-listed property.

STOP 7: Texas Military Institute, 1111 W. 11th Street (now Castle Hill Partners, located above the Austin Graffiti Park)

After the Civil War, the 5th Military District was formed in Texas and Louisiana as part of Reconstruction. The Texas Military Institute (TMI) was founded for the purpose of training young men to serve in this military district. Originally founded in Bastrop in 1868, TMI later moved to this site. When the school was opened in 1870, the original campus was 32 acres. The castle-like building was modeled after the Virginia Military Institute and West Point and contained lecture rooms. Other buildings on campus included a professors' residency, mess hall, barracks, hospital, and other outlying buildings that served the school. TMI operated for ten years, but dissolved because of the rise of public education in Texas. A few years later, Jacob Bickler moved his Texas German and English Academy to this site (1893–97). In 1890, the porch that wraps the north and east sides of the building was added. The building is currently privately owned. It’s a City of Austin Landmark and Recorded Texas Historic Landmark.

STOP 8: Henry H. and Bertha Sterzing Ziller House, 1110 Blanco Street

Henry Ziller (1853–1924) and Bertha Sterzing Ziller (1857–1900) were both members of families who immigrated to Austin from Germany. They married in 1876 and purchased this circa 1877 home in 1881. After about 10 years, they began making additions and modifications, including the ornate Eastlake-style ornamentation on the porches. The house is a City of Austin Landmark, Recorded Texas Historic Landmark, and National Register-listed property.

STOP 9: Henry Hirshfeld House and Cottage, 303 West 9th Street

Henry Hirshfeld was born in 1834 at Schneidermuche, Posen, Germany. He emigrated to the United States from Germany at the age of 15. He served in the Texas Military Brigade as a private under Gen. E. S. C. Robertson in Georgetown, Texas. By 1866, Hirshfeld was living in Austin as the proprietor of Capital Clothing Company at Sixth and Congress Avenue. He married Jennie Melasky in 1868, whose father was also in the dry goods business. A successful merchant, by 1871 he was the first vice president appointed to the new Board of Trade by Governor Davis. He was a leader in Austin’s Jewish community, a charter member of the Mason's Hill City Lodge, and a leading member of the Austin Sängerrunde. In 1873 he built a one-story limestone cottage on the lot west of this site. Because of the financial success and a growing family, they later made plans for a larger

home here. Construction of this two-story brick and cut stone house began in 1885 and the family moved in a year after completion. Designed and built by architect John Andrewartha, it features characteristics of Victorian and Eastlake styling. Exterior ornamentation includes a double gallery, a bay, strained glass, ornate woodwork, and intricate limestone detailing. The two-story stick style carriage house was built soon after completion of the main residence. The Hirshfelds had eight children. Two of their sons, Jake and Sam, also became merchants and opened separate clothing stores. Jake and his brother Morris served as directors of the Austin National Bank, an institution their father helped establish in 1890. Family members continued to reside here until the death of the Hirshfelds' daughter Leila Hirshfeld Bernheim in 1973. The complex is now utilized by the Texas A&M University system. The Hirshfeld House and Cottage is a City of Austin landmark, and RTHL, and is listed in the National Register.

STOP 10: The Walter Tips Building, 710 Congress Avenue (west side of street)

Walter Tips was born in Elbersfeld, Prussia, in 1841. His father and mother emigrated to Texas in 1849, when Walter was eight years old. Walter's brother, Edward, opened a hardware store at this site before the Tips Building was constructed. After the Civil War, Walter Tips went into the hardware business with William Clemens in New Braunfels, Texas. When Edward died suddenly in 1872, Walter and his partner Clemens bought the hardware business on Congress Avenue. His partners still ran the store in New Braunfels, while Walter Tips became the sole proprietor of the Austin store. Architect Jasper Newton Preston built the Tips Building, a three-story stone building which masterfully blends Venetian Gothic and Italianate Renaissance Revival styles. The east façade is five bays, framed by fluted and banded pilasters with Corinthian and foliated capitals. Large open spaces were maintained on the interior by means of a cast-iron colonnade spanned by cast-iron arches running the length of the building down the center at the first level and by a similar colonnade of wood members at the second level. The original construction has two skylights. The Tips Building is a City of Austin landmark and a contributing building to the Congress Avenue NR district.

STOP 11: Kreisle Building, 412 Congress (now Speakeasy)

The Kreisle Building, originally a three-story structure built in the 1870's, was rebuilt as two stories in 1916 after a fire destroyed the entire building. In the late 1960's and early 70's, the Army/Navy Surplus operated out of the building. Oscar Snowden Appliances then occupied the building and for the last several years, it has been occupied by Speakeasy. The Kreisle Building is a City of Austin landmark and contributes to the Congress Avenue NR district.

STOP 12: J. P. Schneider Store, 401 W. 2nd Street (now Lambert’s Downtown Barbecue)

Jacob Schneider’s family moved to Austin from New Braunfels when he was a young child, but his parents had emigrated from Germany. In 1865, he opened his first general store across the street from this building (where La Condesa restaurant is now located). It became so successful that he had this building constructed to open a second store in 1873. The original store at 400 W. 2nd St. was converted to storage space and became known as the “Flour House.” That building is no longer standing, but its vault remains preserved in the basement of the modern building that houses La Condesa. The Schneider Store was a popular destination that drew shoppers from as far

away as New Braunfels to purchase goods. At the time, there was no bridge across the Colorado River, so people would ford the river in wagons at the point where Nueces Street is located today. Schneider had a wagon yard that accommodated 50 wagons and included two camp houses. The store became a popular spot for family gatherings and community meetings. The Victorian structure is representative of Austin’s commercial architecture at the time, which was primarily clustered on Sixth Street. The fact that the Schneider Store was away from that commercial hub but still successful, demonstrates its importance to the community at the time. The building is a City of Austin Landmark, Recorded Texas Historic Landmark, State Antiquities Landmark, and National Register-listed property.

STOP 13: F. Weigl Iron Works (Now Iron Works BBQ)

Fortunat Weigl was born on March 21, 1884 in Bad Aibling, Germany (Bavaria). His father, Joseph, was the Bürgermeister (mayor) of Bad Aibling and an iron worker. He sold and repaired bicycles, repaired machine parts, made tools, and did some decorative iron work, but he did not shoe horses. Fortunat was apprenticed at the iron shop of a man named Prester in Bad Reichenhall. It was here that he met and studied under Hans Lepperdinger, one of the top decorative ironsmiths of southern Germany. Lepperdinger taught Fortunat the intricacies of iron crafting, which he brought with him to America. By the time Fortunat Weigl emigrated to America in 1913, he was married to Anna Schmidtschneider (smith who cuts). In preparation for their move, the Weigls sold all their possessions except what

they could carry to Texas. They took the SS Breslau and landed in Philadelphia, then sailed around the Florida peninsula and followed the coast to Galveston, where they disembarked for Austin. They were met at the train station by Anton Stasswender, a friend from Germany who had preceded them to Austin. Weigl first worked as a plumber. He was slow to acquire proficiency in English, so he worked for a German plumber until he could get established. When the old Main Post Office was being built at 6th and Lavaca streets, the supervisor was German-speaking Willie Dieter, who hired Weigl to help in the construction. He was offered the opportunity to do some iron work and later established his own business, which was moved several times. In 1935, he moved his ironworks to this site. Weigl forged many fences that are still standing today, such as the fence at the Hirshfeld House, the Smith House, and other decorative works. Examples of Weigl's work are evident all over Austin.

STOP 14: Hofheintz-Reissig Store, 303 Red River Street (now Moonshine Patio Bar and Grill)

Henry F. Hofheintz (1822–1880) emigrated from Nassau, Germany, and arrived in Texas in 1845. In 1854, he purchased lots 1 and 2, Block 35, of the original town survey from the state at a cost of $112. The two-story limestone structure he built is an example of late 19th-century commercial architecture with German influence, which is commonly found in Texas. It was operated as a general store, and a later addition housed a saloon and residence. The property remained within the family until 1966. It’s a City of Austin Landmark, Recorded Texas Historic Landmark, and National Register-listed property.

STOP 15: Joseph and Susanna Dickinson Hannig House, 411 E. 5th Street (now Susanna Dickinson Museum

German immigrant Joseph W. Hannig was a cabinetmaker and undertaker, as well as the fifth husband of Susanna Dickinson, the “Messenger of the Alamo.” She survived the battle and brought the news of its fall to Sam Houston, which ultimately led to Houston's defeat of Santa Anna at the Battle of San Jacinto and won independence for the Republic of Texas. Hannig was one of the richest men in Austin during the late 19th century. Now known as the Susanna Dickinson Museum, their former home is dedicated to Susanna Dickinson’s life. The museum features Dickinson family artifacts, as well as furniture made by Hannig. The 1869 house is an example of the “rubble-rock” architectural style, which was brought to the Texas Hill Country by German immigrants. In the 1940s it was home to Randy’s BBQ. It’s a City of Austin Landmark. Just a few blocks away at 206 E. 6th St. is an ornate commercial building that was owned by and named after Hannig.

STOP 16: Hannig Building, 206 E. 6th Street (right side of street)

This highly ornate building predominantly reflects Renaissance Revival trends. Designed by architect Jasper Newton Preston, the building was acclaimed by the local press as an elegant contribution to the city, comparable to the Walter Tips Building on Congress Avenue. It is still one of Austin’s finest late nineteenth century Victorian commercial buildings. Although this building and the neighboring Jacoby-Pope Building were constructed around the same time, they represent two different trends occurring in Austin during the 1870s. The Jacoby-Pope Building is a simple commercial storefront, fairly typical of what was being built on East 6th Street and Congress Avenue during the period. The Hannig Building, on the other hand, is highly decorative, designed by a trained architect and built at a greater cost than most Austin businesses of the era. Owner Joseph W. Hannig was a

cabinetmaker and undertaker, as well as the fourth husband of Susanna Dickinson, the “Messenger of the Alamo.” She survived the battle and brought the news of its fall to Sam Houston, which ultimately led to Houston's defeat of Santa Anna at the Battle of San Jacinto and won independence for the Republic of Texas. Hannig was one of the richest men in Austin during the late 19th century. Their former home is located nearby at 411 East 5th Street; it is now a museum dedicated to Susanna Dickinson’s life. The Hannig Building is a City of Austin Landmark and contributes to the Sixth Street NR district.

STOP 17: The German Free School, 507 East 10th Street (now German-Texan Heritage Society headquarters)

Education was a primary concern for the new German immigrants who arrived in Texas in the 1840s and 1850s. Although Texas did not have a system of free public education at that time, it did offer subsidies for students attending private tuition schools who could not pay. The German-Texans organized several schools under this system, paying for teachers and buildings with a combination of state funds, donations and tuition. In September 1857, the German-Texans in Austin held a public meeting to establish a German school for the city. Civil engineer Wilhelm von Rosenberg donated land at this site for the school. Within a month, German-Texan volunteers began construction of the school building. The first school in Austin chartered by the Texas Legislature, the German Free School Association opened in 1858 with August Weilbacher and Julius Schutze as its first teachers. The

1857 building with rammed earth outer walls contained two classrooms and a basement. About 1872, a two-story limestone section was added to provide four additional classrooms. Julius Schutze returned to teach in 1880 and moved his family into the schoolhouse. They continued to live in the building after the school closed in 1881 with the advent of Austin's public school system. Schutze published the Texas Vorwaerts newspaper here for a time and eventually gained title to the property. Kelly Stevens, an Austin artist, purchased the building in 1948 and lived there until his death in 1991. The building was deeded to the German Texas Heritage Society at that time. The German Free School is a City of Austin landmark and an RTHL.

STOP 18: Old General Land Office Building, East 11th and Brazos (now Texas Capitol Visitors Center)

This three-story Norman-style building, constructed in 1856, was designed by German architect, Conrad C. Stremme, who was educated at the University of German and was a member of the Royal Hannoverian Commission on Public Buildings. Stremme taught architecture at the University of Dorpat in Tartu, Russia, published a book on architecture in 1842, received the title of nobleman from Czar Nicholas I. William Sydney Porter (O Henry) worked as a draftsman in this building. The building was used as a setting for one of his short stories, "Bexar Scrip No. 2692." Along with the Governor's Mansion, the General Land Office is one of the oldest buildings in the Capitol Complex. It once housed the state of Texas' deeds, patents, maps and other records. Today it serves as the Capitol Complex Visitor's Center and gift shop. The Land Office Building is a City of Austin landmark and is listed in the National Register.

STOP 19: Scholz Garten, 1607 San Jacinto

At the grand opening of Scholz Garten in 1866, August Scholz offered free beer, a huge cast of singers and various bands to his new customers. Scholz is the "oldest tavern continuously operating at one location" in Texas. This site has been the continuous meeting place of Texans from all walks of life . . . pioneers, Texas legislators, writers, students at the University of Texas, businessmen, and dignitaries. The founder and first owner of Scholz Garten, August Scholz, was a German immigrant, born in 1825, who shortly after emigrating to Texas found himself embroiled in the issues of the Civil War. He entered the conflict on the side of the Confederacy and served under Captain H. Willke until the war ended in 1865. It was then that he decided to open a tavern in Austin. Scholz's Hall, as it was then

called, became famous for concerts, dances, and social functions in subsequent years. Before Scholz passed away in 1891, he turned the Garten over to his stepson, Theodor Reisner, who ran the business for two years before selling it to Edwin Lemp. Mr. Lemp operated "Lemp Brewery" on the property. Today the enterprise he started is knows as Falstaff Brewing Company. The Austin Sängerrunde, a German singing group, has been meeting at Scholz since 1879. It is the present owner of the property. The Sängerrunde also operates a bowling alley on the property, and holds dances often throughout the year for its members and guests. It is the oldest ethnic organization in Austin. The Scholz Garten is a City of Austin landmark, designated an RTHL, and is listed in the National Register.