Garments Construction

8/18/2019 Garments Construction

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GARMENT

CONSTRUCTIONSarwat Halima

Saima Habib

Sadia Amin


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QUOTATION

What I do is restricted by the cloth and the

human body.

My job is to make that cloth give expression tothe body.

(Vivienne Westwood)

April "#$" is an %nglish &ashion designer and

businesswoman' largely responsible &or

bringing modern punk and new wave &ashions

into the mainstream.


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INTRODUCTION (arment making is a technical accomplishment

that re)uires knowledge o& &abrics' principles o&

clothing construction and skills involved in it.

*his depends on the ability to select the correct

&abric' color' design and accessories to suit an

individual occasion.

A garment that is made will be attractive i& it

&its well and proper attention is paid to its &iner

details.

It is necessary to know the techni)ues o& sewing

&or producing attractive garments with good &it.


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THE NATURE AND PURPOSES OFDRESS

+erhaps the most obvious &unction o& dress is

to provide warmth and protection.

,ther basic &unctions o& dress include

identi&ying the wearer and making thewearer appear more attractive.

-lothes that are deemed handsome in one

period are declared downright ugly in the

next and even uni&ormsthe simplest andmost easily identi&ied costumeare subject

to change.


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THEORIES OF COTHING!" SCOTT" HENDERSON

,ne o& the earliest theories which &ormed

the hypotheses o& wearing clothes was the

modesty/shame theory.

*his theory is also known as the &ig lea&theory which is based on the story in the

0ible. (enesis states that Adam and %ve

reali1e that their state o& being naked

when they consume a &ruit &rom theknowledge tree. And in shame they both

stitched clothes out o& &ig leaves' hence the

name &ig lea& theory.


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THEORIES OF COTHING Arguments said that clothing was merely

because o& protection o& one2s body &rom the

threats in the environment.

-lothing was discovered eons ago. Adiscovery o& a 3445year old male on a glacier

on the Austrian5Italian border revealed such.

*he body was clad in a &ur cap' a leather

cape' a loincloth' and leather shoes.*hese clothes were possibly there to

provide protection against the harsh winds.


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THEORIES OF COTHING!" SCOTT" HENDERSON

,ther arguments stated

that clothing was

created to create sexual

attraction or to display

beauty o& one2s body. It is discovered that

people began decorating

themselves much be&ore

they started clothing.

%arly age signs o&decoration included

painting and tattoos and

even jewelry.


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THEORIES OF COTHING

6ecent scholars now state that clothing

represents one2s identity and communicates

nonverbally.

-lothing in some societies is as &unctional aslanguage. It represents a person2s age'

gender' marital status' ethnicity' social

status and occupation.


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HISTOR" OF GARMENTCONSTRUCTION

It is not certain when

people &irst started

wearing clothes

however'

anthropologists giveestimates that range

between "44'444 to

344'444 years ago. *he

&irst clothes were made

&rom natural elements7animal skin and &urs'

grasses and leaves' and

bones and shells.


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-lothing was o&ten

draped or tied

however' simple

needles made outo& animal bone

provide evidence

o& sewn leather

and &ur garments&rom at least

84'444 years ago.


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0e&ore sewing

machines' nearly all

clothing was local and

hand5sewn' there were

tailors and seamstressesin most towns that

could make individual

items o& clothing &or

customers. A&ter the

sewing machine wasinvented' the ready5

made clothing industry

took o&&.


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SEWING MACHINE 0e&ore the invention

o& the sewing

machine' most

sewing was done by

individuals in their

homes' however'

many people o&&ered

services as tailors or

seamstresses in smallshops where wages

were very low.


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THE SONG OF THE SHIRT T#o$%s Hood&s '%%d T#e

Son o* t#e S#i+t, -.'is#ed in/012, depicts the hardships o&the %nglish seamstress7

With fingers weary and worn,With eyelids heavy and red,

A woman sat in unwomanly

rags,

Plying her needle and thread

Stitch! Stitch! Stitch!

In poverty, hunger, and dirt, And still with a voice of

dolorous pitch

She sang ‘The Song of

the Shirt!


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!IRTH OF MECHANICA SEWING *he &irst possible patent

connected to mechanical

sewing was a "933 0ritish

patent issued to (erman'

-harles Weisenthal.

-harles Weisenthal took out

a patent &or a needle to be

used &or mechanical sewing.

:n&ortunately' what sort o&

mechanical sewing we do

not know &or a descriptiono& the machine was notproperly mentioned in the

patent.


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SEVERA INVENTORS ATTEMPTTO IMPROVE SEWING

*he %nglish inventor and

cabinet maker' *homas

Saint was issued the &irst

patent &or a complete

machine &or sewing in

"9#4.

*he patent describes an

awl that punched a hole in

leather and passed a

needle through the hole.

;ater reproduction o&

Saint2s invention based on

his patent drawings did

not work.


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!ARTHEEM" THIMONNIER 4 FIRSTFUNCTIONA MACHINE 5 A RIOT

*he &irst &unctional sewing

machine was invented by the


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WATER HUNT 5 EIAS HOWE

In "=8$'Walter Hunt

America2s &irst >somewhat?

success&ul sewing machine.

He later lost interest in

patenting because he

believed his invention wouldcause unemployment.

>Hunt2s machine could only

sew straight steams.? Hunt

never patented and in "=$@'

the &irst Americanpatent was issued to %lias

Howe &or a process that

used thread &rom two

di&&erent sources.B


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ISAAC SINGER VS EIAS HOWE 4PATENT WARS

Sewing machines did not

go into mass production

until the "=342s' when

Isaac Singer built the

&irst commerciallysuccess&ul machine.

Singer built the &irst

sewing machine where

the needle moved up

and down rather thanthe side5to5side and the

needle was powered by

a &oot treadle.


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READ"4MADE COTHING About "=8"' (eorge ,pdyke

began the small5scale

manu&acture o& ready5made

clothing' which he stocked

and sold largely through a

store in Cew ,rleans. ,pdyke was one o& the &irst

American merchants to do so.

0ut it was not until a&ter the

power5driven sewing machine

was invented' that &actoryproduction o& clothes on a

large scale occurred. Since

then the clothing industry has

grown.


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INDUSTRIA REVOUTIONGARMENT CONSTRUCTION

During the industrial revolution' both men2s and

women2s dress becomes more complex during

this era due to the invention o& the Sewing

Machine' and the popular dissemination o&

pattern books and systems &or garment cutting.

Men2s clothing' while outwardly simple' begins

to ac)uire the internal padding' inter&acings

and complex structure that makes modern

men2s suits &all so smoothly even over an objectas lumpy and mobile as the human &orm.

while women2s dress continues to balloon out

with ru&&les' decorations and petticoats.


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%lias Howe' the inventor o&

the &irst mass produced'

practical sewing machine'

originally demonstrated its

utility to a group o&

prospective investors byholding a sewing race

between himsel& and his

machine' and ten pro&essional

hand stitchers.

He easily won' and the

economic situation o&stitchers >mostly &emale?

declined as a conse)uence o&

the adoption o& the invention.


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Industrialists would invest in the machines'

hire the stitchers cheaply' and then take the

pro&its &or themselves that their increased

output produced. With pro&its so high' soon competition

between manu&acturers o& clothes got &ierce'

and so producers tried to improve their

product by adding more sewing decoration'such as ru&&les' pleats' and top stitching' to

lure customers.


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*he end result was that &ashionable Women2s

dress became incredibly over decorated in

the "#th -entury.

Another result o& this was that poor people2sclothing got better' and the rags o& earlier

eras were replaced by cheaply made mass

manu&actured work clothes. *he middle

classes were able to a&&ord more than cleansimple clothes' and began to actively indulge

in &ashion &or its own sake.


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T"PES OF FA!RICCONSTRUCTION

*here are E types o& garments.

". ,ne is Woven garments.

E. Another is Fnitted garments.

. Woven *%'+i6s are made in hand looms' power looms and millmade. Making woven &abrics is simple. 0ut yarn counts' reed G

picks >warp G we&t?' width should be considered with more care.

*he &abric )uality is made di&&erently by various methods o&

&inishing and treating.

. 7nit *%'+i6s are made in di&&erent kinds o& knitting machines.According to the structure o& &abrics' they are called by di&&erent

names. *he mainly used &abrics are ersey' +i)ue' Interlock' 6ib'


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GARMENT CONSTRUCTIONSPECIAI8ED AREAS9

(arment construction can be divided into

di&&erent speciali1ed areas. At the top o& the

manu&acturing chain are

Haute couture and *he tailoring cra&ts'

which involve working with individual

customers.

At the lower ends o& the manu&acturingchain are

Industrially produced garments.


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WHAT IS HAUTE COUTURE: *he term Haute couture

is


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WHAT IS HAUTE COUTURE: A haute couture

garment is o&ten made

&or a client' tailored

speci&ically &or the

wearers measurementsand body stance.

Haute couture garments

are also described as

having no price tag 5 in

other words' budget isnot relevant.


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THE TAIORING CRAFTS this reveals with

one person

individual dress

making by a tailor.


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INDUSTRIA" PRODUCEDGARMENTS

Re%d;4to4we%+ orIndustrially produced

garments is the term

&or &actory made

clothing' sold in&inished condition' in

standardi1ed si1es' as

distinct &rom made to

measure or bespokeclothing tailored to a

particular person2s

&rame.


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TOOS FOR THE GARMENTCONSTRUCTION

0esides a sewing machine in good condition'

well selected sewing e)uipment are essential

&or making garments o& good )uality and

appearance.

SEWING TOOS

CUTTING TOOS

MEASURING TOOS

MAR7ING TOOS PRESSING TOOS

MISCEANEOUS TOOS


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SEWING TOOS

H%nd Sewin Needes

Sewin M%6#ine Needes

Sewin t#+e%d Pins

T#i$'es

E$'+oide+; F+%$e

%mbroidery *hreads

!o''in


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CUTTING TOOS !ent4H%nde S#e%+s

S6isso+s

Pin


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MEASURING TOOS Me%s.+in T%-e

R.e+s

"%+dsti6< o+ $ete+ s6%e

S=.%+e S


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MAR7ING TOOS

T+%6in W#ee

T+%6in P%-e+

T%io+s C#%<


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PRESSING TOOS

I+on

Ste%$ I+on

I+onin !o%+d Seeve !o%+d

P+ess 6ot#


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MISCEANEOUS TOOS

Aw

Se%$ Ri--e+

oo- T.+ne+ D+ess Fo+$

P%-e+

T#+ee4W%; Mi++o+ O+%ne4sti6<

C.ttin 'o%+d o+ t%'e


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CHARACTERISTICS OF WEFINISHED GARMENTS


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EASE *he garment' which seems to be right si1e is

neither too loose not too tight.

%ase is also the di&&erence between the

actual body measurements and the garmentmeasurements.

*his amount varies with the &ashion' type o&

garment and personal taste. A garment

constructed with optimum ease would be theright si1e.


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INE ;ines should be smooth without &olds and

neat. *here should be smoothly graded

curves in back and &ront. Armhole should be

oval' but not pointed or round in shape.

*he curve lines should not be too low which

will hinder the movements o& the hand.

*he lines obtained by darts' pleats and yokes

are with in the garment and they should begrace&ul and smooth.


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GRAIN *he placement o& warp and we&t yarns &orm

grain. Heavier threads tend to drape well on

the &igure with grace&ul &olds' when gathers'

pleats and ru&&les occur on the straight grain.

I& the grain line is not corrected' wrinkles or

sagging occur. Some times the grain line is

o&&' when the material is not cut care&ully.


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SET A well5&itted garment has a smooth set

without any wrinkles.

A smoothness o& set or &reedom &rom

wrinkles is re)uired &or a good5looking &it. (race&ul &olds created by gathers or un

pressed pleats or draped &eatures are style

lines not to be con&used with wrinkles' those

slanting triangles straining &rom some curveor bulge o& the body


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!AANCE *he garment should look balanced &rom le&t

to right and &ront to back.

*he skirt should hang so that it extends the

same distance &rom the center to the rightand le&t sides.

*he necklines should &it neck snugly at all

points. I& the shoulder seam stands away

&rom shoulder at neck point and &its tightlyat armhole point' the garment will look out

o& balance.


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REASONS FOR POOR FITTING". When the garments are

carelessly cut and i&

stitching is not done

properly then the garment

will have poor &itting.

E. I& the basic patterns arenot o& the right si1e or i&

they are not altered

according to the body

measurement then poor

&itting occurs.8. +oor posture might be the

reason &or di&&erences in

the bodice blocks.


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REASONS FOR POOR FITTING". *he human body has

numerous curves o& which

the basic ones are bust'

end o& shoulder' shoulder

blade' elbow' abdomen'

side and hip. *he garmentshould be cut and stitched

accurately to &it on the

curves o& the body.

E. *he straight material

should be &olded intodarts are cut into seam to

allow enough ease over

the curves.


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TO SEE THE FITTING OF AGARMENT

*he garment should be

tacked and tried on.

*he openings are pinned

together accurately'

properly and securely. *he

basting line that markscentre &ront' and back helps

in giving a good &itting.

*he garment should be worn

right side out to check the

&itting on the body. *hegarment is thoroughly

inspected and care&ully

analy1ed &or &itting.


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It should be com&ortable

while walking or working.

I& any alterations are to

be made on the garment

then Mark the correctline with tailors chalk and

tack the corrected seam

line or dart line &rom the

inside o& the garment.

*he paper patternsshould also be altered on

the basis o& changes

made in the garment.


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:ntil a satis&actory

&itting is achieved'

repining and alterations

&or &itting is done.

In the second round o&checking the &itting'

concentration must be

on the sleeves and arms

cycle' Cecklines'

waistlines should becurved to &it

com&ortably and

naturally.


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*he patterns which are

altered &or good &itting

should be preserved.

A dress should look nice

&rom the back as it is&rom the &ront.

*he back should be more

care&ully &itted since

there is a strain. A dress

with a back too wide'too narrow or too short

can be uncom&ortable

and it is unbecoming.


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CONCUSION Human beings start to wear clothes &or many

reasons i.e modesty' protection' identi&ication

G wearer appear more attractive.

(arment construction is very old. +eople wear

leaves' &ur and animals skin as clothes.

Initially people used to sew cloths &rom their

hands which is very time consuming n di&&icult

job but a&ter the invention o& sewing machine

the whole scenario has been changed n

garment has been start constructed on mass

level.


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CONCUSION


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Garments Construction