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Watches have long been an underrated wardrobe accessory. No more.

These days, running late has never looked so stylish, as old-school watch junkies andnewbie buffs alike are barely raising a well-groomed eyebrow at forking over bigbucks to jazz up their wrists.

“People’s tastes have become more sophisticated. They like to show they have styleand money. And since it’s not fashionable to hang a bank book around your neck, it’sa watch,” says Doug Youngson, manager of Humbertown Jewellers in Toronto.

Indeed, jewellery stores are selling more high-end watches than ever. Sure there arethe classics like Patek Philippe, Rolex and Cartier, but newer makes, like FranckMuller, have also garnered cachet in watch worshipping circles. And nowadays, own-ing one just isn’t enough.

“Some of my customers have six or seven watches, and they all have a differentlook and feel. Depending on how they’re feeling that day, or what they’re wearing,they’ll change it up,” says Matt Baily, owner of Matt Baily Watch Merchant in Mon-treal.

And let’s not pretend this is about telling time. No, this is about status, personalityand yes, to a degree, showing off. The maitre d’ may not be able to see your Mer-cedes, but when he catches a glimpse of your Jaeger-LeCoultre, you might just get abetter table.

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“It’s not at all about telling time. It’s abouttelling who you are. You can be elegant,sporty, even flamboyant,” says Bernard Flo-rence, president of Calgary Jewellery.

That means no one dares be caught with,gasp, an ugly watch. Even people who havespent their lives wearing $20 and $30 watchesare hopping on board the high-end craze.Take Sarah Merchant of Vancouver. She justturned 30 and shelled out a couple thousandfor a Baume & Mercier – a gift to her, fromher, with all her love.

“It was my 30th birthday and I decided togo all out and get something classic, some-thing that’ll let me play with the big kids.”

Men, too, are increasingly discovering thejoys of accessorizing with a watch. Whilewomen have shoes, purses and sometimes

Model: Talei Epp. Photo: Todd Duncan, www.tdphotography.ca

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even little dogs to show off their style, men have fewer options.“There’s really not a lot in the way of men’s jewellery. Some have a ring, a chain,

and not even that so much anymore. So for most men, if they want to show their per-sonality, a watch is often it,” says Youngson.

Indeed, there are distinct watches for distinct personalities. Russian PresidentVladimir Putin reportedly wears a Patek Philippe valued at $60,000, the same as hisyearly salary. American President George W. Bush reportedly flaunts a very modestwrist decoration, a Timex Indiglo.

As far as fashion goes, the most popular style for both men and women is a big,even over-sized, watch face. And while diamonds may not be a man’s best friend, theycan certainly help him look polished and professional, even elegant.

“We’re seeing a whole new trend of both male and female watches that are com-prised with diamonds or precious gems,” says Florence.

Of course, such luxury also brings handsome price tags. At the higher end, forexample, Patek Philippe watches start at about $12,000. Rolex provides an entrypoint between $4,000 and $6,000. Concord watches, which can run upwards of$100,000, begin at less than $1,500. Also on the more affordable side, most jewellersagree you can get a good high-end watch, such as an Omega or Baume & Mercierstarting at $2,000, while a fashionable Movado, which can run more than $10,000,begins at about $500.

“For many customers, these watches are piece of jewellery, a piece of art. They’renot just buying a watch, they’re buying a lifestyle,” says Baily.

David Hopkinson, Vice President Corporate Sales & Service, Maple Leaf Sports & Entertainment

Three years ago, David Hopkinson lost his old watch in a “tragic, gym-related”accident. He figured it was a sign. Time to grow up and replace it with something sleek and stylish, something distinctive. He succeeded. Hopkinson describes his Ebel timepiece as more art than watch. With its large face and crystal detail, he gets compliments almost every day.“I would never pretend this watch is just about telling time.”

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For luxury watch enthusiasts, knowing the time of day is just as important as know-ing their watch matches the moment. Rest assured, whether it’s for sports, daytime orevening wear, there is a luxury watch for all occasions.

Norbert Brinkhaus of Brinkhaus Jewellers says luxury watches typically fall intofour major categories: themed sport, sporty dress, dress, and “complication” models.

In the unhurried environs of his Vancouver store, Norbert says matter-of-factly, “Itall depends on how much money you are willing to spend.”

Brinkhaus Jewellers makes choosing a little easier. Its Vancouver store focuses exclusively on Omega, IWC, Patek Pilippe and Rolex, while its Calgary location alsoincludes watches by Cartier, Ebel, Baume & Mercier, Mont Blanc and Raymond Weil.

Typically, sports watches such as a Rolex Daytona, Cartier Pasha or Omega AquaTerra have functions such as a chronograph, barometric pressure or show GreenwichMean Time.

He describes sporty dress watches as “classic and versatile, elegant but understated,”noting that many sought after brands have a distinct look. “The Rolex Submariner’sgreen bezel; the Omega Sea Master Planet Ocean’s orange bezel; IWC’s Ingenieur andEbel’s Brasilia…like a Mercedes’ grill, there’s no mistaking them.”

With quality and classic design also comes lasting value. “After 15 years, you canrefinish a Rolex Datejust and make it look almost new.”

Though true dress watches typically raise the stakes even higher, certain sportywatches are so stylish they even suit evening wear. For example, the classically styled,water-resistant, diamond clad Patek Philippe 24 (starting at $12,000) is built fortoday’s multitasking woman, whether she’s with the kids or hosting a fundraiser.“This design has been interpreted by nearly every brand,” says Norbert.

And for the purist, there are extremely rare, handcrafted mechanical “complica-tion” watches. Want one? Not so fast. Some are so coveted that manufacturers deter-mines who qualifies to own one. “You could buy two Ferraris for the same money,”says Norbert.

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Richard Deacon, President, RJD III Media Inc.

Inspired by his granddad’s love of classicwatches, Richard Deacon bought his firstluxury watch two years ago, a gorgeousOmega Speedmaster with a black, round dial and stainless steel strap. “It’s the ultimate watch for time keeping,” he says.Now, the Vancouver entrepreneur is on thehunt for a Louis Vuitton Speedy AutomaticChronograph. “A watch to me is a statement, a signature or stamp of style, success or personality.”

Clockwise from top left: RolexSubmariner’s unmistakablegreen bezel; a delicious OmegaChocolate Chronograph for her;IWC’s Portuguese Chrono-Automatic; a Cartier Pasha 32 mm with diamonds and an18 KT white gold case; a Raymond Weil Shine LadiesStainless Steel with diamonds;Movado's elegant Sapphire; a Patek Philippe GondoloGemma Quartz Movement with72 diamonds.

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Note: Such beauties require TLC. Some must be hand wound, while othersself-wind when worn. Wear them well, and they will serve you faithfully.

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Patrick Taylor, Executive Producer, Toronto Downtown Jazz

It took a lot of hinting, but Patrick Taylorfinally got the gift he wanted: a Movadowatch. It’s the only piece of jewellery heowns. He says men don’t have a lot of accessory options, and the black dial andsapphire crystal detail is not only “the opposite of dainty,” but can be worn easilywith a tux or jeans. “I have no intention ofbuying another watch for myself. But if I did, it would be another Movado.”

If you want a dead-accurate timepiece, buy a quartz watch. But if you want somethingtruly special, think mechanical.

Today’s mechanicals incorporate hundreds of micro-sized components, forming a precision mechanism that keeps time and serves as a chronograph, perpetual calendar...you name it.

Michel Cliff, a sales professional at the Bloor Street Birks Jewellers in Toronto, says,“Companies have returned to their pedigree. There are beautiful mechanical pieces withmovements you couldn’t even find a few years ago.”

He says storied brands such Baume & Mercier, whose mechanicals “have gone back to the DNA of the brand,” start at just over$2,000. Concord, Geneva’s second oldest brand,offers many including the gorgeous Rose GoldDelirium ($14,000). The new rectangular RolexPrince ($16,000), based on its original 1928design, features a revealing “exhibition” back.

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MarinerWith any Concord Swiss watch purchased, Concord will

perform - free of charge - all the recommended routine maintenance during the first three years you own the watch.

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Suzan Mandell, Sales Director, Outdoor Life Network and TSN

Suzan Mandell would probably wear shortsleeves year round if she could. And she’s gotreason. She owns a Concord watch. With alarge, mother-of-pearl face encrusted with diamonds, it was love at first sight. She says it’s much more than a watch, it’s a distinctivepiece of jewellery, one she says is worth every penny of its luxurious price tag. “Whydrive a Mercedes? It’s about service, beauty,making a statement.”

If the notion of strapping a fine watch on your wrist has you scrambling for your wallet,take a breath. Where you buy can make a big difference to your long-term satisfaction.

Paul Mara, president of the Canadian Jewellers Association and founder of Paul MaraJewellers in Victoria, B.C., says the only way to get the full benefits of a watch’s warranty and product integrity, and avoid pitfalls such as counterfeits, is to buy from anauthorized dealer.

“If you buy it elsewhere, you could be getting something that is not what it appears tobe,” says Mara, who cites watches with secondary parts or dubious backgrounds amongthe risks.

“This applies to any luxury brand,” adds Mara, who sells Rolex exclusively. When it comes to choosing a dealer, he advises,

“Don’t buy on price – buy based on a relationship. “You’re likely to have your watch for a very long

time. You should feel very at ease where you buy it.And expect the service to back up your purchase – a retailer that will stand beside you to support you ifthere is ever an issue with the product.”

Psst…wanna buy a watch? Not so fast.

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