French Cuisine in the Classroom: Using Culture to Enhance

Language Proficiency Jayne E. Abrate

University of Missouri-Rolla

ASTRACT French cuisine offers a valuable resource for creating culture-based contexts for language use in the classroom. Situating a food in its historical and social context prior to tasting, following up the experience with a detailed discussion of student reactions, and comparing the situation to other aspects of French or American eating habitspermit learners to appreciate more fully the important sen- sory differences between cultures. This article presents numerous suggestions and ideas for exercises incorporating food-related activities in the French class.

The study of culture has long constituted a popular element of language classes for both students and teachers. Proficiency in a language can never beacquired without a thorough ground- ing in the culture that speaks it, and both the ACTFL. Proficiency Guidelines (I) and the AATF Syllabus of Competence (12) include specific cultural skills which correspond to successive levels of language mastery. Culture forms the backdrop which imbues words with their connota- tions, determines basic assumptions about the world, and assigns values to behavior. Using French cuisine to develop contexts for studying geography, history, social structure and interac- tion, as well as for practicing language skills, allows teachers to promote real understanding and appreciation of France. Sampling unusual foods such as artichokes or escargots offers students the opportunity to experience firsthand a fundamental aspect of culture in a way no discussion can match. Food and related subjects provide an effective, inexhaustible means of introducing students to a “taste” of authentic culture whose benefits extend far beyond enjoy- ment of the items consumed. The aspects of culture which most affect communication are so commonplace as to be unconscious to native speakers, that is, the attitudes, beliefs, habits, and behaviors particular to the group. In her work on

JayneE. Abmte(Ph.D., Purdue University) is Ledurer of French at the University of Missouri-Rolla

Franco-American cultural differences, Rayrnonde Carroll (3, pp. 17-18) states:

Ma culture est.. . la logique selon laquelle jbr- donne le monde.. .dGs ma naissance.. . jbi appris h la respirer et h oublier qu klle dtait apprise. .. Elle sous-entend tous mes dchanges.. . De cette logique, il est une part qui est.. . invisible.. ./I sbgit des prdmisses dont nous tirons constamment nos conclu- sions. Ces prkmisses, nous nkn awns pas conscience parce qu klles sont pour nous, des dvidences.

Almost impossible to learn analytically, these invisible foundations of culture must be dis- covered subjectively, precisely because so much of cultural behavior is taken for granted as normal and universal by natives. Non-natives often re- main unaware of differences until they encounter situations which force them to reevaluate their assumptions. However, often individual speakers do not possess the necessary tools to comprehend what has disturbed them, usually seemingly petty external details: “...when students return fro m... overseas, they frequently dwell on unex- pected cultural differences ...T o a great extent students are referring to differing physical ex- periences they have known” (Thiel, 13, p. 434). Cultures make diverse judgments as to what is pleasing to the senses, and the act of eating con- stitutes a microcosm of the sensory experience

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FOREIGN LANGUAGE ANNALS - WRLWG 1993

of visiting a foreign country. For instance, reactions of Americans unexpectedly confronted with horse meat, brains, kidneys, blood sausage or fish served with the head can be instantaneous, very negative, and difficult to rationalize.

Besides its role in establishing effective com- munication, the study of culture fosters inter- cultural understanding and tolerance, a basic goal of foreign language study. Stressing a plurality of views by considering France as well as other fran- cophone countries, other European cultures, even the personal examples of foreign students in the class can contribute to instilling curiosity and creating a positive attitude toward cultural diversity. For instance, in discussing meal times, the instruc- tor can point out that while many Americans have their evening meal at 5:OO or 5:30 p.m., the French rarely eat before 7:OO pm., and the Spanish may dine as late as 1O:OO or 11:OO p.m. The native’s body has effortlessly adjusted to these times, but a foreign visitor may encounter difficulties when an internal clock tells his stomach to demand food.

Studying a foreign culture also encourages students to recognize their own culturally deter- mined behavior. Since nearly all assumptions and reactions spring from an internalized view of the world as interpreted by one‘s culture, students must have the knowledge and tools to discuss their beliefs and may resist questioning what they accept as “true” or “right.” People are not the same everywhere; such a statement represents an ethnocentric idea that translates as “everyone else is just like me.” To admit significant cultural dif- ferences is to accept that “my way” is neither the only way nor necessarily the “right” way. Nostrand (8, p. 30) warns: “Only when ‘knowledge about’ is put togetherwith ‘experience of‘ at least one other culture can understanding supplant the ingrained notion that all other ways of life are inferior to ‘Number One.”’ In the classroom, teachers tend of necessity to present “knowledge about,” since “ex- perience of“ is difficult to acquire and impossible to reproduce realistically in the school. Making the French classroom a separate environment with decorations, music, books, and student and teacher behaviors helps, but the introduction of food can stimulate all the senses in addition to relating con- textually to many other areas of life and language.

Food, described by Barthes (2, p. 167) as “a

system of images, a protocol of usages, situations, and behavior,” represents more than nourishment. By utilizing food-related activities as an organizing principle of a lesson or course, one can combine authentic materials, unique behaviors, and sensory stimuli to evoke French culture and to encourage language practice. Furthermore, for purposes of comparison, students know about this area of their own culture. A basic human need, food touches all aspects of life, health, sickness, death, celebration, family, and friendship, and constitutes an ever- present yet inational element of culture. Despite its daily biological presence in a person’s life, food serves as a symbol of well-being, control, and self- esteem. Visser (14, p. 3) points out: “Food can be shared, abstained from, used as a weapon or a proof of prestige, stolen, or given away; it is therefore a test of moral values as well,” although modern diners rarely stop to reflect on the symbolic nature of their meal.

Americans, in particular, do not regard food as a symbol, but upon closer examination its broader social implications are inescapable. Seelye (10, pp. 44-45) suggests: ‘:..behavior associated with the col- lection, domestication, processing, marketing, and consumption of food can also be viewed as a response to psychological needs,’’ as evidenced by the variety of ways in which countries approach these processes. Why do the French still have many small, family farms while Americans turn more and more to large corporate farms? How is livestock treated and slaughtered? Which animalsare eaten? Is natural processing preferred over synthetic or chemical processing? Is food processed and sold primarily by individuals or by large companies? Do people purchase food in supermarkets or specializ- ed shops? What qualities does advertising attribute to food? How, when, where, and with whom is food consumed? Students can research these issues in a variety of ways, including interviews with teachers or native speakers; independent or directed library work using encyclopedias, periodicals, news reports or books; or study of teacher-supplied articles or advertisements, surveys, statistics, stories, films, or commercials. Many statistics dealing with production and con- sumption of food products can be accessed through Minitel services! The information uncovered will rarely yield clear-cut answers, since the reasons

various strategies have evolved are many and com- plex. Nevertheless, the comparison of such French and American behaviors reveals a great deal about each nation’s attitude toward eating.

Although many other countries possess strong culinary traditions, no other nation has achieved the status accorded the French. Good eating has always played an important role in French culture. Pitte (9, p. 15) observes: “La France est de loin le pays d ‘Europe qui accorde le plus d ‘importance b sa gastmnomie, et la Fmngais communient depuis bien des gkn6rations dans la certitude quasi ab- solue que sgabore sur leursol la meilleure cuisine au monde.”Yet not only the French believe this, but nearly all other countries from Africa to Asia to South America consider France the birthplace of gastronomy, the point of reference for good food and elegant dining.

Eating is a sensory experience, the only one available to the teacher which involves all five senses. Traditionally, students have often engaged in food activities while seldom fully reaping the rewards, enjoying the exposure to culture offered by native guest speakers, tasting parties, or dinners without ever learning more than a few anecdotal facts about food or eating habits. If presented con- textually and developed as a total experience, pre- paring, tasting, and discussing food provide enriching activities which easily gain students at- tention and enthusiasm. The following steps prove effective in deriving the maximum pedagogical benefit from a food-related activity: 1) situate: 2) ex- perience: 3) discuss; and 4) relate. Beginning from the most general point, the experience should be situated historically, considering the origin, evolu- tion, or significance of items or behaviors. For ex- ample, appropriate manners, when or why the dish was invented, baking techniques for bread, the origin of nonindigenous foods such as the potato, tomato, or, more recently, the kiwi all fit in this category. At the lower levels, small groups can in- vestigate assigned topics by reading teacher- prepared texts or conducting library research in English. More specifically, they can consider associations with holidays or special occasions, mealtimes, the place one would eat, who might be present, and behaviors relating to formality or in- formality or dining in a home or restaurant. Finally, the table setting can be recreated or imagined, in-

cluding room, furniture, and utensils. Common characteristics include the fact that at a dinner par- ty, French hosts usually sit at the side of a table rather than at the head (Visser, 14, p. 130), while a restaurant might serve food on individual tables or a fable d’hdte where unacquainted, single diners sit together. The French rarely use paper tablecloths, napkins, or plates and often change plates between courses, even if this means washing them. lnter- viewing native speakers, examining illustrations, or studying video and film all provide sources for this type of information. Students might look at pictures or meal scenes from movies and note all the characteristics they can. These elementq especially those which cannot be duplicated, enhance the ac- tual experience of eating by providing students with some of the cultural context possessed by natives and by helping suggest the foreign atmosphere.

Students should be carefully prepared before they sample the food, alert to the information con- veyed by their senses. This may mean learning vocabulary with which to describe the experience, identifying unknown items by taste, creating im- ages of what they have eaten, or even using a ques tionnaire to evaluate the activity. First of all, a p preciation of the visual aspect of food, such as the presentation on a platter, fish served whole, cheeses or bread in a basket, or “toc+pretty-to-eat” desserts is important, in fact, vital to the French. Julia Child (4, p. viii) points out: “The French are seldom interested in unusual combinations or sur- prise presentations ... the Frenchman takes his greatest pleasure from a well-known dish impec- cably cooked and served.” Only then should students approach the food, smelling it, just as a wine taster does, noticing the freshness and the spices, or even attempting to identify smells of unknown ingredients. Feel or texture, noting whether an item is hot or cold, smooth or crunchy, soft or chewy, and taste come next. Students might even take one bite concentrating on texture and another on taste, for instance. French food tends to be more spicy but less salty or sweet than American food, dishes are often cooked with wine, and cheeses are more flavorful. Lastly, sound, while perhaps a bit more difficult to elicit with food, can be provided through conversation and background music, although some fried or flambeed dishes will offer their own accompaniment.

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FOREICNL.Ah’GUACEA”ALS - SPIUNG 1993

Initial discussion forces students to verbalize their reactions. Since Americans usually eat quickly and without a real appreciation of what they con- sume, students often express surprise at how vivid the experience of eating can be when they use all their senses. If students indicate likes or dislikes, they must specify the reasons, because frequently the basis for an individual’s food preferences is culturally determined. Foods may be associated with memories which students can recount orally or in writing, and the teacher may ask them to think about future eating experiences: Would they like to eat this food again? What changes might they suggest? What variations? At elementary levels such discussion will probably occur in English, but as students gradually master more vocabulary, they can express themselves more fully in French.

The fourth step of relating the experience to other aspects of French or American culture is limited on- ly by the imagination. An obvious comparison b e tween the French dish and American tastes en- courages students to examine critically their own habits. The topic can be further broadened to a discussion of nutrition and health. Simon (11, p. 12) observes:

Les Francais souftrent tous du hie, ou d’un autre organe digestit mais organe tout aussi mythologique que lkau rnin6rale et qui ne peut shpliquer dans la psyhologie collectix que cornme le signe d’un complexe de culpabilite‘ complaisant du bien et du trop mange,:

Students might compare statistics for French and Americans detailing consumption of certain food groups or specific items, such as bread, wine, soft drinks, or sugar, to determine who has healthier eating habits. For all their reputation as great eaters, the French consume fewer calories on average than Americans, 2200 caloriedday compared to 2400 calories/day for Americans (Dietiker, 5 , p. 6). American fondness for sugar and fried foods sure ly contributes to this difference. The importance ac- corded the pharmacy gives further evidence of the French preoccupation with health and digestion. Pharmacists will tell mushroom hunters, for in- stance, if their finds are safe to eat; certain products such as baking soda, baby food, and baby formula

were once the exclusive domain of the pharmacy. Even yogurt was at one time sold for medicinal purposes.

The value placed on good eating in France has led to the establishment of elaborate rules of eti- quette and presentation. Visser (14, p. 45)observes: “In France, parents traditionally insist that it is good manners for children to ‘try a little of everything.’ The rule prepares small French people to accept the variety that is offered by French cuisine ....” In ad- dition, there exist more “do’s and don’ts,’’ specific dishes resewed for special occasions, and sewing formalities, reflecting Gramont’s (6, p. 366) asser- tion: “The urge to refine the physical world must be accompanied by rules as strict as those of grammar. The sequence of dishes and the accompanying wines follows an order as precise as the place of words in sentences.” Although lifestyle changes in recent years have entailed many alterations in eating habits, including more industrialization, more processed food, less variety and flavor, busier schedules and thus more interest in fast food or convenience foods, good eating remains a strong tradition throughout all strata of French society. The study of etiquette and manners invites numerous first-hand research opportunities. Besides con- sulting French and American etiquette guides, students can interview native speakers or corres- pond with pen pals or take notes while watching French films and compare the information obtain- ed with that from their own families.

Kamman (7) vividly portrays the women she honors in her book, When French Women Cook, paying close attention to social and culinary eti- quette as well as to the composition and presenta- tion of meals. Comparing her descriptions with per- sonal stories gleaned from talks with grandparents or older relatives can show how changes parallel each other and are often as much a function of economics as culture. Students will also discover that the changes observed by their grandparents oc- curred more recently in France, especially in rural areas.

Free discussions are of necessity limited by the students’ mastery of the language, but numerous corollary text- and situationbased exercises and ac- tivities exist. Authentic materials such as menus from restaurants or patties, recipes, articles, and ads are readily available. By using party menus,

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commonly printed for wedding or communion din- ners or &ueillons, teachers can encourage students to guess what the various dishes are or how they were named, discover how to arrange courses and which are optional, notice typical deserts, and even estimate the expense involved.

Recipes offer more of a challenge. French recipes tend to give vague instructions which assume the cook is knowledgeable. Some cookbooks are more helpful than others, but conversions and lack of availability of ingredients sometimes pose a prob lem. Conversion charts exist, and French metric measures are available in gourmet stores; they in- dicate liquid measures and the scales used for flour, sugar, rice, and other staples which are usually measured by weight. For other ingredients a kitchen scale, a must in a French kitchen, can prove useful.

Vocabulary, especially food terms, quantities, adverbs, and commands, is easily reviewed with recipes, while grammar and reading comprehen- sion can be treated as with any text. Conversation practice can be stimulated by questions about general information contained in or implied by the recipe, times, ingredients, utensils, shopping needs, evaluation of ease or difficulty of preparation, serv- ing advice, even wine selection.

Literary and historical allusions abound in adver- tising, which offers a useful guide to what is of general importance and understood in the culture as a symbol or value. Both print ads and commer- cials serve a commemorative function, as Barthes (2, p. 170) points out: ‘:..food permits a person (French) to partake each day of the national past ...” These materials provide listening or reading prac- tice, can stimulate discussion of the symbolism utilized and whether it is universal or specifically French. Students can compare French ads to American ads for similar products and can collect samples of American advertising of French pro- ducts or references to France in the promotion of American products to create a class scrapbook.

Consulting a book of recipes from representative regions along with maps (topography, transporta- tion routes), climate and weather data (average temperatures, rainfall), and production statistics (major crops, import/export figures) a class can ex- amine why a particular region has specialized in certain crops and how those products are used in

traditional recipes. For instance, the sandy soil and dry, sunny climate around Bordeaux have allowed the area to produce large quantities of quality wines. The easy access to the sea and long historical relationship with England have fostered the international reputation of Bordeaux wines. Similar examinations can be conducted with foie gras in the Ptirigord; olives, tomatoes and eggplant in Provence; artichokes and potatoes in Brittany; or apples in Normandy, to name but a few. Student projects may include inclass activities such as tasting, and demonstrations of techniques for mak- ing crepes or mayonnaise or assembling eclairs. Students can carry out research projects on food history or eating habits or can develop and conduct surveys on American eating habits or American stereotypes of French food. If students have French pen pals, they might ask the pen pals to keep a food diary of everything eaten for a week to compare with their own.

French dinners are popular events and can range from students preparing individual dishes at home and everyone eating them buffet-style to a com- pletely studentcentered activity encompassing the planning, preparation, and serving of a meal. Meals can often be prepared in a home economics kitch- en. However, the key to a successful French dinner remains planning and organization. Initially, students can work in groups with recipe books and propose menus to be voted on. Ideally, students form teams to prepare each dish. Authenticity should be respected-using real cream and butter, fresh spices, or wine for cooking. Listing recipes with supplies for each dish on a note card and set- ting up work stations with the necessary items laid out allow the teacher to supervise and encourage conversation without having to respond to repeated requests for ingredients or explanations.

Serving and eating the meal should be the focus of the cultural activity. To ensure as French an en- vironment as possible, one can set the table with real dishes, silverware, and linen, use different plates for a change of courses, and small juicesize glasses for drinks. When wine cannot be served, it is preferable to preserve the French spirit by pro- viding mineral water rather than sparkling grape juice or soft drinks, since the goal of a beverage in a French meal is to enhance the taste of the food, not disguise it. A French atmosphere can be further

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FOREIGN LANGUAGE ANNALS - SPRCNG 1993

simulated by inviting native speakers or exchange students as guests and printing souvenir menus.

Video offers another valuable resource. Many schools and individuals now have video equip ment. Although tapes can be professionally produc- ed, far more interesting to classes are student- or teacher-made videos. Certainly, many useful short videotapes on restaurants, food, eating, and holiday meals are available, as are full-length movies which devote important scenes to food and eating, and these can be used very effectively in the classroom to present culture. However, if a teacher has access to a video camera, he or she can take advantage of French restaurants or bakeries in the area, local native speakers willing to demonstrate some aspect of French cuisine, or even student demonstrations to create not only useful cultural documents, but also mini-lessons which can be reused in future classes, used by a substitute teacher, or in a dual- level classroom. A local restaurant or bakery might permit a teacher to film in the kitchen, with the chef perhaps answering questions about ingredients and techniques. Students can use vocabulary lists and questionnaires to help them decipher this unrehearsed, unscripted speech. If the teacher travels to France, small-town bakeries, butcher shops, or restaurants will often allow filming in the kitchen, and, of course, regular open-air markets are found in all French towns. When one explains the purpose of the film, many merchants are flat- tered to besingled out and to see that their work is admired.

In lieu of native speakers, the teacher can prepare his or her own video for practice in listening and language skills. In a mini-lesson, this might include labeling ingredients, measures, and utensils and clearly pronouncing each one before beginning the demonstration, and exercises accompanying the film to evaluate student comprehension. Dishes such as onion soup, crepes, eclairs, boeuf bourguignon, or croissants can be illustrated in this way. The production does not have to be profes- sional, and, in fact, students are more involved and interested in such materials when prepared by their own teacher, even if the quality is somewhat lacking.

In the classroom, students can prepare their own demonstrations of cooking and eating, creating dialogues, deciding on setting and costumes, select-

ing background music and titles, and acting in their own productions. The clear-cut goals of preparing a dish give students a context on which they can re- ly when asked to speak or perform in French. This situation tends to relieve anxiety more than pure- ly imaginative contexts. The group activities in- volved in planning and executing the video provide countless opportunities for conversation practice and problem resolution in the language.

Exercises and activities organized around a tradi- tional southern French cassoulet illustrate the ex- tent to which one dish can be utilized in the class- room at varying levels, beyond simply preparing and eating the food:

Elementary level (in French whenever possible)

1) Search cookbooks for recipes. 2) What is cassoulet? List common ingredients

3) Study introductory materials from

4) Learn vocabulary and study recipe for

5) Examine cooking techniques and utensils.

6) Study a menu. What dishes might accom-

7) Locate Castelnaudary and Toulouse on a

8) Determine what ingredients are important

9) Determine if all ingredients are available

or variations.

cookbooks.

grammar and comprehension.

Compare to American methods.

pany cassoulet?

map.

local products.

locally in the United States. 10) Decide on a table setting. 11) Examine cookbooks for recipes using

similar ingredients in order to define regional characteristics.

12) Read recent articles about red wine and cholesterol levels in France.

Intermediate Level (in French as much as possible)

used.

pare them with American rules.

well with cassouh?

1) Research the history of the ingredients

2) Examine French rules of etiquette and com-

3) Investigate regional wines. Which might go

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FOREIGN LANGUAGE ANNALS - SPRING 1993

4) Study the history of the region. 5) Write to tourist offices in Castelnaudary or

Toulouse for more information.

Advanced Level (in French)

to this dish and region.

cassoulet or the region.

1) Research French culinary history as it pertains

2) Study selected literary passages alluding to

3) Find out what a moungefade is. 4) Interview native speakers about their ex-

periences eating cassoulet.

Most of these suggested activities apply at any level, and differences arise regarding whether they are carried out in English or French or whether the research is open-ended or closely directed by the teacher. It is clear, however, that this one classic dish, known to all French, can lead to in-depth study of the region, its history, and the habits of the people. Additionally, any of these areas can be com- pared to American traditions and regional cooking.

These suggestions represent just a few ideas for tapping an underused resource and certainly apply to other languages and cultures as well. The importance of French cuisine to the French and to the world makes it particularly relevant to the study of the language. Gramont (6, p. 365) affirms that food: “...ranks with other arts as a means of discovery of a nation’s culture. The stomach a b sorbs culture as much as the mind or the eye.” As teachers in proficiency-oriented classrooms strive to incorporate realistic and useful contexts in which to promote language use, food provides a rich source of material. The nonthreatening nature and concrete objectives of food-related activities allow students to participate freely and interact mean- ingfully with each other in the target language. By sensitizing them to the ancient traditions, broader cultural ramifications, and sensory pleasures of food, one can not only increase their enjoyment of language study but also provide knowledge and skills that will enhance their appreciation of food and awareness of culturally determined behavior outside the classroom.

NUITS 1 Information is available from Minitel Services Co.,

2900 Westchester Ave., Suite 101, Purchase, NY 10577.

REFERENCES 1. ACTFZ Pmvkional PLOrciency Guidelines. 165-72 in

Charles James, ed. Foreign Lunguage Pmficiency in the Classroom and Beyond. Lincolnwood, 1L: National Textbook Co., 1985.

2. Barthes, Roland. ‘Toward a Psychosociology of Con- temporary Food Consumption.” 166-73 in Robert Forster andorest Ranum, eds., trans. Elborg Forster and Patricia Ranum. Food and Dnnk in History Baltimore: Johns Hopkins, 1979.

3. Carroll, Raymonde. Evidences Inoisibles. Paris: Seuil, 1987.

4. Child, Julia, Simone Beck, and Louisette Bertholle. Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Volume 1. New York: Alfred Knopf, 1983.

5. Dietiker, Simone Renaud, and Gerard Burger. All6 la France. Boston: Heinle & Heinle, 1985.

6. Gramont, Sanche de. The French: RJrtrait of a ple. New York Putnam’s Sons, 1969.

7. Kamman, Madeleine. When French Women Cook. New YorkAtheneum, 1976.

8. Nostrand, Howard Lee. “Culture in Language Teaching: The Next Phase.” ADFL Bulletin, 20(1988):29-34.

9. Pitte, Jean-Robert. Gusmnomie francaise: Hisloire et gdographie d’unepassion. Paris: Fayard, 1991.

10. Seelye, H. Ned. Eaching Culture. Lincolnwood, IL National Textbook Co., 1984.

11. Simon, Roland. “Images publicitaires: Images culturelles.” French Reuikw, 54,1( 1980): 1-27.

12. Teaching of French: A Syllabus of Competence. Special issue of the AATFNationalEWletin, Volume 15 (October 1989).

13. Thiel, Friedrich. “Sights, Sounds, & Scents: The Physical Side of Foreign Language Classes.” Fore@ Language Annals, 17,1(1984):434-40.

14. Visser, Margaret. Rifuals of Dinner: The Origins, Evolution, Eccentricities, &Meaning of Table Man- ners. New York: Grove Weidenfeld, 1991.

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