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FEMINARUM This is a special Doctor Who issue of the magazine: I was at Def Con 2 in Southampton over a weekend in September. Inside is a double feature of my experiences of the event. The front cover image is of John Ragnar dressed as David Tennant. Issue 2 In this issue this month is the usual articles on hair, make -up, Raven's Diary and other topics.. Of course we have our gorgeous Gallery of Guys for you to browse through.. We hope you enjoy this issue and FB us with your questions and suggestions about what you want to see in the next issue of the magazine..... November 2013 Issue 2

Feminarum Issue 2

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Our November Dedicated to Doctor Who's 50th Anniversary. Includes all your Favourites, including our Gallery of Guys.

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Page 1: Feminarum Issue 2

FEMINARUM

This is a special Doctor Who issue of the magazine: I was at Def Con 2 in Southampton over a weekend in September. Inside is a double feature of my experiences of the event. The front cover image is of John Ragnar dressed as David Tennant.

Issue 2 In this issue this month is the usual articles on hair, make -up, Raven's Diary and other topics.. Of course we have our gorgeous Gallery of Guys for you to browse through.. We hope you enjoy this issue and FB us with your questions and suggestions about what you want to see in the next issue of the magazine.....

November 2013

Issue 2

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Q

Our first issue was a real success and we decided to do a Doctor Who themed magazine this month. Many of our regular contributors are big fans including myself. All the normal articles are in here still but I have a special double piece on the Def Con 2 event I went to in September at Southampton and also an interview with John Ragnar who I met whilst I was there. If there is anything you want to see in the Christmas issue or you want give us your views or comments then the contact page at the back of the magazine has all the details. Myself and the team h o p e y o u e n j o y reading this months issue of FEMINARUM magazine... Helen Wright, Chief Editor.

Page

Contents page

Page 3 S i m o n ' s h a i r p r o d u c t o f t h e month. Page 4 - 5 Sarah Pearce 's regular monthly make- up tips. T h i s m o n t h i s weddings. Page 6 - 7 Gemma's article on Vintage clothing. Pages 8 - 16 O u r g a l l e r y o f Guys. Pages 17 - 18 Def Con 2 article with Type 40 Toys.

Page 19 The main interview with John Ragnar. Page 20 Doctor Who at Crawley Cineworld. Page 21. Introducing our

Page 27 Izzi's Kitchen Doctor who special recipe. Page 28 Type 40 Toys advert. Page 29 Merciless Beauty magazine advert. Page 30 Contact page. This contains all the contact details for the magazine.

Page 22 -23 Fitness with illustrations by Darren Essex. Page 24 Casey's new book that she has written. Page 25 -26 Raven's Diary.

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Product of the month Oatmeal and Honey by TIGI. Why? This is a fantastic treatment for the hair and anyone who uses colour or heat on their hair. So pretty much everyone! You can leave it on for as little as two minutes and as long as two hour, but make sure you rinse it out before you go out anywhere as it may look a little silly. Haircare: So this is the season for strong chill winds and lots of rain. Not the best type of weather to be spending hours on your hair only to go outside for 5 minutes and have all that hard work undone. With this being the case instead of making your hair look great with all these products to hold it in place, lets make it feel great too! Treatments

that can be left in or as our product of the month does where it really penetrates deep into the hair shaft and will make your hair feel its up most best all the time! The best part is at this time of year its great to start a routine to get your hair looking perfect for Christmas.Help As this is the second issue of the magazine so I haven't yet had any e-mails to reply to, but this maybe because I haven't given out an e-mail for you to ask anything. So here it is - [email protected] Please feel free to e-mail me and I will answer as best I can and I hope that it helps. Maybe some of your questions will even be chosen to go into the magazine.

Hair product of the month...

"So this is the season for strong chill winds and rain, not the best weather for your hair"

Simon Oliver... Simon will be giving out tips and advice each month. Please FB us if there is anything you want to Simon to cover in future issues..

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This month I’m very excited to be looking at bridal looks and tips for wedding make-up for 2014. I think next year is going to be a very busy year for weddings !! I

personally already have 49 weddings booked for next year and 5 for 2015 ....I’ve researched trends from the catwalks and also shared with you below my top 5 tips for bridal make-up, I hope you find this useful when thinking about choices for bridal make-up, as it can be quite overwhelming searching for your perfect bridal look. Wedding Make-up Trends From The 2014 Bridal Runways. Finding the perfect makeup palette, inspired by looks on the bridal runway, can help you accentuate your best features on your wedding day. Most of my brides choose a make-up look that enhances and defines their best features, to give that classic timeless look ... one word ... beautiful. The best way to describe the latest bridal beauty trends is just three words: Glamour, Elegance & Grace. Bridal makeup is generally more of a classic style. Many of my brides have realised that less is more – more sophisticated and more elegant. I do love a full-on smoky eye make-up look as well, and have noticed more vintage style weddings this year, hopefully set to continue into next year. I love the Audrey Hepburn style wedding look, a classic, romantic look for any bride, especially if you can wear a full on red lipstick. In terms of wedding make up, all things dewy and fresh were taking over the Spring 2014 runway, this beauty trend couldn’t be more perfect for your choice of wedding make up. Even better, a dewy complexion bridal look is easy to achieve and looks beautiful in your wedding photos. Photo by John David Palfreeman Photography.

Sarah Pearce make-up artist

Wedding make-up..

๏ Classical looks, less is more.

๏ Make the most of your best features.

๏ Latest bridal looks are glamour, elegance and grace.

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Photos by John David Palfreeman photography. Below are my 5 top 2014 bridal make-up trends that every brides needs to know about ! 1: Well Groomed Full Eyebrows: The trend with bridal eye brows for the last couple of years has been well defined and well groomed. On trend for 2014 are thick well groomed and darkened eye brows. The perfect brow is the ideal finish to a flawless bridal look. I’m a big fan of threading – really precise (albeit a little painful!), but certainly creates a lovely shape to the brow J. I can tell instantly if my clients have a threaded brow. 2: Rosy Flushed Cheeks : Every bride need a lovely glowing cheek! Hence the term ‘blushing bride’. Cheek colour can get a little lost in photos, so never be too worried about applying colour to the apple of the cheeks .. best to choose peach and/or pink blush colours with golden undertones. When applying look into the mirror, smile and apply the colour to the apple of the cheek sweeping outwards and upwards. 3: Pink or Bright Coloured Lips: Most of my brides opt for a pretty neutral lip colour on their wedding day which can sometimes get lost in wedding photo's. Bridal looks for 2014 bring bright fuchsia and soft red lips .. wow !!Always remember that lipstick does need to be re-applied every 2 -3 hours to keep the colour fresh. 4: Eye Liner: Eye liners continue to be all the rage for 2014 brides. Choose a little winged liner near your upper lash line or a soft smoky smudge of colour just under your lash line....liners make the eyes pop.Always use waterproof eye liner, mascara and eye colour on the big day .... then you can relax knowing your make-up wont smudge or run. 5: Pressed translucent Powder: even with a dewy effect foundation, you never want to look shiny. A camera flash will enhance any ‘glow’ and make skin look oily. Opt for a translucent powder to touch up foundation throughout the day.. always go for a pressed powder, rather than a loose powder. This avoids any spillage on your wedding dress.

Make up tips for brides

Advice for brides:

๏ Well groomed eyebrows. ๏ Rosy flushed cheeks. ๏ Lip colour and lipsticks.

Next month I will be doing make up tips for your Christmas party...

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feminarum

Dress in Vintage.... How to dress Vintage; Original Vintage or Reproduction.

I adore vintage clothing, the cut, the length, and the designs. I love how feminine and beautiful I feel when I dress this way. I now dress in vintage/ reproduction clothing more or less full time. When I chose to dress this way full time I never really thought about the practicalities of it, such as the maintenance of the clothing, washing it and storing it, and dressing for the cold often bad weather we get here in the UK. As I wear clothing from the mid 1930’s to mid-1950, the clothing is of course very old and often very fragile. Another thing as original vintage clothing is often over 50 years old, so rare and one of a kind, you do not have a huge amount of variety in sizing. A lot of vintage clothing is in small sizes, which for someone with a more voluptuous and curvy figure this does not work. I have been very lucky to find a number of vintage dresses that actually fit me and they haven’t always been overly expensive. I do tend to keep my original vintage clothing for very special occasions such as events and photo shoots. With vintage clothing, you cannot just put this piece of rare one of a kind clothing in the washing machine. It often needs to be cleaned by a dry cleaner specialising in vintage clothing. The same can be said for vintage fur. I have a couple of vintage furs over 70 years old that can only been cleaned by specialist cleaners which again can be very expensive. You also need to make sure that all vintage items are stored very well to avoid moths and damage.

So how can you dress in vintage clothing all the time without worrying about a precious item being damaged by being used all the time or keeping it clean? Well wear reproduction clothing. There are plenty of fabulous companies who make reproduction clothing based on vintage patterns as well as dress makers who will make bespoke dresses to your measurements. These reproduction items are often made of 100% cotton or modern fabrics so much more

feminarum

VINTAGE CLOTHING

How to dress Vintage; Original Vintage or Reproduction?

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wearable and easy to clean even though some still need to be dry cleaned and come in a variety of sizes and for someone like me with a rather large bust this is a good thing. Some of my favourite reproduction companies are Collectif, Pinup girl clothing, Lindy Bop and Vivien of Holloway. Sally Sweetlove is a fabulous dress maker who makes bespoke dresses and clothing to your exact measurements in any fabric you choose. Some of them are expensive but totally worth the money. Lindy bop has fabulous prices; no dress is more than £30 so for those on a budget this is amazing for a reproduction dress. One of my favourite reproduction items is the Dolores Doll dress from Collectif which I have two of in different colours. This is a perfect dress as it has a bit of stretch making it perfect for busty figures teamed with a pair of heels and maybe a vintage cardigan and of course a full petticoat, not one would ever know it was reproduction.

Photo by myboudoir.co.uk

feminarum

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Gallery of Guys.. Meet the gorgeous guys..... photo by Becky Moyce

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D A R R E N E S S E X P H O T O B Y G R E G O RY B R O W N .

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C H R I S T I A N B RY D O N P H O T O B Y S H A M AYA S T U D I O S .

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C H R I S T I A N B RY D O N P H O T O B Y S H A M AYA S T U D I O S .

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D A R R E N E S S E X . P H O T O B Y M AT T M A R S H .

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PA U L N I K K I P H O T O B Y B E C K Y M O Y C E O F B A N B U RY P H O T O G R A P H Y.

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C H R I S T I A N B RY D O N P H O T O B Y S H A M AYA S T U D I O S .

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C H R I S T I A N B RY D O N P H O T O B Y S H A M AYA S T U D I O S .

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PA U L N I K K I P H O T O B Y B E C K Y M O Y C E O F B A N B U RY P H O T O G R A P H Y

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Saturday the 5th of September was the first day of the convention. It was packed and people like Chris Barrie and other members of the Red dwarf cast were there.I also had the pleasure of merging Colin Baker who was a real star and was really enjoying the fact that everyone associated with Type 40 toys was dressed as a Doctor for the day. There were a lot of other Science fiction characters there which included Storm troopers, Jedi, a great Judge Dredd and an awesome Captain Jack Sparrow. I am the official photographer for Type 40 toys in Worthing and I was covering the event for their website and FB.Alex who runs the shop, had outfits ready there for us to wear and I was amazed at the time and detail that he and Nikki had put into sourcing everything for each Doctor as well as members of UNIT.There was also an original Tardis on show along with a Darlek that was used in Doctor Who.This Cyberman caught my eye because it is such a good copy and it is also a very iconic image

from the Doctor Who series. My son came with me dressed as Matt Smith, my husband was dressed as John Pertwee and I was dressed as Romana.All in all it was a great day and everyone really enjoyed having their photos taken and chatting to like minded people. It is more relevant this year as it is 50 years ago that Doctor who first appeared on our screen. The Tardis we all stood next to is actually from the very first episode called " An Unearthly Child" So I decided that Novembers issue of the magazine would be dedicated to Doctor Who. (Photos provided by Double 8)

Def Con 2 Saturday 5th of September: Met Colin Baker.

The Cyberman costume was so real and brilliant. It was provided by Type 40 toys in

Worthing.

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It was another great day at the convention and people were turning up in some amazing outfits, dressed as their favourite characters from Science Fiction movies and TV.I was with Type 40 again, taking pictures of the Doctors in all their shapes and sizes that were turning up all day. Some of the costumes were amazing accurate and everyone was really getting into the spirit of the event. There were a wide range of costumes and people with enthusiasm are always great company. It was a long day but worth all the effort and Nicky and Alex who run Type 40 toys in Worthing, really appreciated all the work that everyone had put in to making a fun and exciting weekend.The images on this page are some of the people who came along dressed in their outfits. The time and effort that had clearly gone into the costumes was great.. There were a wonderful array of Storm troopers and even a female storm trooper which I though was great. Everyone was happy to have their pictures taken and were enjoying all the attention.

My son had the great honour of meeting the famous Jeremy Bulloch who played Boba Fett in the Star Wars movies.He was such a nice guy and chatted to Conner, Steve and myself for a long time. Although he was busy signing autographs, he made a point of speaking to everyone he met.Connor went away with a big smile on his face. The rest of the Doctors and myself also met Andrew who was there. He'd been a stunt man in many films including Star Wars. It was a long day but being honest it was one of the best weekends I have had in a long time. I met some great people and will be looking forward to doing more Doctor Who events with Type 40 toys.

The Femme Troopers outfit was amazing. (Pictures provided by Double 8)

Def Con 2Sunday 6th of September

I was working really hard to try and capture the spirit of the event

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John Ragnar dressed as the

Doctor... Q1. Why did you chose Doctor who to use for cosplay? I've been watching it since 1972 and have always loved it. I had a bit of a break away during Peter Davison's era, but came back to it when Paul McGann took up the role for the movie in 1996. That's when the cosplaying first started. The Doctor Who Exhibition was still at Longleat at the time and my wife & I used to go up there quite regularly. Our costumes weren't really complete back then, just bit's here and there. It was around this period I built my first Dalek too. Since taking it up earnest I've concentrated on my favourite Doctor, Tom Baker. I have six different versions of his costumes now. This year I've also started doing David Tennant and am really enjoying it. the Tenth Doctor gets far more of a reaction with children, who don't really remember the older Doctors.I also have Fifth, Sixth & Eleventh Doctor costumes, but allin a state of flux. They'll be upgraded and finished off eventually, but I'm busy working on my full size Tardis at the moment! Q2. How do you source your outfits? Charity shops, Ebay, making them ourselves and occasionally having bitscustom made. We try to as much as we can ourselves, but some things arebest left to professionals to get the perfect look. Q3. Who is the best person you have met? Katy Manning by far! She's a lovely person and a great bundle of fun andenthusiasm, always a pleasure to see Katy. Of course I have to mention someof those that are no longer with us too: The great Jon Pertwee who we metjust three weeks before he sadly passed away, Elisabeth Sladen who was veryunassuming and really nice to be around, Nicholas Courtney, the fantasticBrigadier - always with a few anecdotes to tell, Barry Letts too. There areso many others I'd like to have met but never will, Mary Tamm especially.Very sad. Q4. What would you love to achieve as your cosplay characters? What I love to achieve is what I already do, making children's faces lightup when they meet "The Doctor", it makes it all worthwhile. When they'reasking you questions like "Where have you parked the Tardis?" etc. It'sgreat that they have that air of innocence when they're quite young. It'ssad that we lose that really, growing up is such a terrible bore. That's whyI have no intention of doing it any time soon! Q5. Do your family get involved? Most definitely! My wife plays River Song as well as Mary Tamm's Romana,she's also done Amy Pond in the past. My little boy loves the Sixth Doctor -Colin Baker and has his own costume, which he likes to wear as often aspossible. He's always running around with a sonic screwdriver in his hand. Photo by Double 8.

The Doctor.

I did an interview with

John and asked him

about why he enjoys

dressing as a variety of

Doctors and other

characters..

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Doctor Who 50th anniversary at Crawley Cineworld. Saturday 23rd November.

Type 40 Toys were asked to attend the 3D showing of the Day of the Doctor at Cineworld in Crawley. They came with props and the Type 40 Toys Live cosplay crew. We had a great time and met some amazing people who loved Doctor Who....

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Ian is looking to be our resident Agony Uncle.... Ian is looking to try and help everyone out with what ever problems that life might throw at you.. FB with your problems and he will try and give you some sound advice and even point you in the right direction... We just decided that most magazine have an agony aunt but here in FEMINARUM. We like to do things differently.. Your answers will be kept anonymous and Ian will be working towards making this page a success and for that he needs your help. We will be doing fun a fun and sexy quiz each month.... He will also be giving advice on certain situations that we have all found ourselves in...so watch this space...

Fifty shades of Ian...

❖ Answer your questions ❖ Send your requests on FB ❖ They will be answered in

the magazine.

Ian will be happy to answer all of the questions that the readers will be putting on FB. Most magazines have an agony auntie but we wanted to go for something slightly different... So if there is any advice that Ian can give you then please FB us with your situations...

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7. Get into pushup position on the floor. Now bend your elbows 90 degrees and rest your weight on your forearms. Your elbows should be directly beneath your shoulders, and your body should form a straight line from your head to your feet. Hold the position for as long as you can. Your goal should be to hold it for two minutes. 8. Side Plank Hold your body in a straight line from head to feet with your elbow directly beneath your shoulder. Hold the position for as long as you can without letting your hips drop and top arm reaching upwards, then repeat on the other side. 9. Jack Knife with fit ball Start in pushup position, but with your shins on a Swiss ball. Your body should form a straight line from ankles to head [A]. Without rounding your lower back, contract your abs and use your feet to pull the ball toward your chest by bending your knees [B]. Pause, and return to the starting position.

Great Glute, Abdominal and Leg Exercises Tone that bum, legs and stomach with these easy to follow exercise:- Everyone wants to get lovely toned Legs, bottom and stomach and these are just some exercises you can do to help achieve this. start by doing 2 sets of 15 repetitions (30-40 seconds rest between sets) 1. Bench Step-Ups With of shoulders. Begin by reaching one of your feet back behind you like you are taking the first step if you were walking backward. Really reach back with this stride to get a good stretch. Bring that leg back to the start position and repeat the same movement with your opposite leg. Keep your back firmly upright and straight throughout this exercise. Also, get

2. Reverse Diagonal Lunge Stand with your feet about shoulder-width apart and place a barbell across the back of shoulders. Begin by reaching one of your feet back behind you like you are taking the first step if you were walking backward. Really reach back with this stride to get a good stretch. Bring that leg back to the start position and repeat the same movement with your opposite leg. Keep

point of the lunge. 4. Hamstring curls with ball Assume start position as shown by lying on the floor, back of calves resting against ball. Lift bottom off the floor by lifting hips toward ceiling then pull the ball in with your feet, push the ball back out , return to start position and repeat. 5. Medicine Ball

Matrix Grab a 3- to 5kg medicine ball (you can use a dumbbell) and kneel on the floor with your knees h i p - w i d t h a p a r t . Lengthen your spine and press the ball against your abs (A). Slowly lean back as fa r as poss ib le , keeping your knees planted (B). Hold the reclined position for 3 seconds, then use your core to slowly c o m e u p t o t h e start ing posi t ion. That's 1 rep

3. Lateral Lunges Begin in a standing position with dumbbells hanging at your side. Step to the right with your right foot, keeping your toes forward and your feet flat. Squat through your right hip; at the same time, keep your left leg straight. Squat as low as possible. Hold this position for 2 seconds. Push back to the starting position and repeat to the opposite side. Be sure to keep your knee on your "working" side, behind your toes. Also, keep your opposite leg straight, the back flat, and the chest up. Don't bounce at any point of

6..Medicine ball twists Sit on the floor with your knees bent and feet flat on the floor (easier) or raised up off the floor (more difficult). Contract your abs and sit at about a 45 degrees angle. Hold the medicine ball with both hands directly in front of you. Contracting your abs, twist slowly from your torso to

Darren's fitness tips

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Here is a selection of pictures to illustrate the exercises that D a r r e n h a s p u t together.

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Quick Guide To Events is a book aimed at anyone with as much or as little knowledge about events and how to organise one. Casey realised there was a gap in the market when it came to easy to read Events Guides. As most guides are aimed at Professional Managers with high levels of knowledge, or University Students learning their craft and so a lot of these books were lengthy textbooks written in a language aimed at those in the industry. Not designed for the general public or businesses who would need this information. It was a lengthy task of taking all the essential information, speaking to those in the Industry and a lot of research into what the general public wanted from a guide such as this and compressing it into such a small book. And so Quick Guide To Events was born. This book is being solely published on Amazon and will come as either Kindle Format or in Print. Below is the link for Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/Quick-Guide-Events-Casey-Kingsland-ebook/dp/B00EGOXQD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383675731&sr=8-1&keywords=quick+guide+to+events

Quick guide to events....

Casey wrote this book as she could there was clearly a gap in the market... I read the book and was clearly impressed with the advice and also the way the book was set out... Casey will be writing and sharing a chapter each month within this magazine...

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RAVENS DIARY

Creative Christmas.... This month has been a busy one, I can tell you.

With Christmas fast approaching and my trying to be responsible and looking for bigger property, this month has been all about saving those pennies and making money go further. I totally empathise with anyone out there looking at their bank balance and wondering how Christmas will pay for itself this year.

Thankfully, I have no plans to get myself into debt, instead I turned to our trusty friend Facebook to see if or how I could save some money this year, and by golly have I saved some cash. Also been investing in Loyalty Cards and looking at the ones I already had. Some money to be saved by being a loyal customer I can tell you.

Yes it involves a lot of hours scrupulously staring at a laptop screen to find those good deals. But just this month alone, I have probably saved a few hundred pounds, just by being a big fat Scrooge. I have managed to get myself Designer Glasses for about 2% of the original price, a pair of Brand name trainers for my brother again for a tiny fraction of its RRP, Mother’s presents didn’t cost me a penny using those precious Loyalty Card Vouchers we love so much.

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So why not give it a go, you can thank me later

On another, more charitable note, I spent various afternoons with my mother and my son, making Christmas bauble shaped cards for the local Mencap, the idea is to make a donation, write a Christmas message and either hang it on the tree at a local Mencap home, or take it home with you and hang it on your own tree. We spent many hours covered in glitter, competing for the best shaped bauble (my scissor skills know no bounds)

But we make hundreds of baubles ready for people to buy, in hopes to raise lots of money for Mencap.

This is my sons designs, didn’t he do a great job!

So why not save some pennies this year with the help of Social Networking, or making some Christmas Decorations or Cards of your own!

I’m sure I will have a cheeky smile on my face this Christmas watching everyone open big name products and thinking I am the best person ever, secretly knowing, I still have a healthy bank balance come January.

Hope you all have a wonderful and debt free Christmas!

Much love

Raven

xxx

"Christmas does not need to be expensive"

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Doctor Who Ginger biscuits Ingredients 200 fl oz of flour 1 egg 2 table spoons of milk 2 small spoons of water Ginger spice 1 tablespoon of black treacle 1 small spoon of sugar Pre heat the oven to 150 degrees.Mix the flour, egg, spices, treacle water and milk together. Kneed the mixture into a soft dough. Using some extra flour dust the work surface and start rolling out the dough. Using the Doctor Who cookie cutters press down deep into the dough and then push out the cookie.Place them on a tray that has either grease proof paper or has butter in it just to stop the biscuits from sticking. Brush them with milk or egg white. Leave them in the oven until they are brown. Put them on a plate and wait till they have cooled down. You can always ice them or even sprinkle icing sugar on them. It's up to you how you decorate your characters.

Izzi's Kitchen..

The cookie cutters come from Lakeland who are doing a whole Doctor Who range.

(Photos by Double 8)

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Type 40 Toys. Your one stop Sci-Fi shop.

Products available in the shop in Worthing: Doctor Who, Star Wars, Star Trek and much more....... Find us at 23a Rowland's Road, Worthing. [email protected]/type40toys Photos by Double 8

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Casey is looking for the face of the magazine this month. So FB them and Casey and send her some images that might appeal to her readers...Please make sure that you have the permission of the photographer before sending in your submission otherwise it will be turned down. The FB details below are for the magazine... https://www.facebook.com/pages/Merciless-Beauty-Magazine

Merciless Beauty

Magazine...

The magazine...

๏A sister magazine edited by Casey Kingsland ๏Be the face of the magazine this month....

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Don't faint, just FB us.. It does not need to be a drama...we want to know what you want to see

in the big bumper Christmas issue of FEMINARUM...

If you want more Guys in the Gallery or you want some vegetarian or

gluten free Christmas recipes, then let us know.

Any questions can also be sent to us via the Facebook link..

(You should know it by now...)www.facebook.com/Feminarum

Thanks for reading the magazine...From Helen and the team.. PS.. This is an unofficial magazine dedicated to Doctor Who.

A magazine for women by women.. FEMINARUM