FE Magazine

—SETTING

THE SCENE

—KEY A/W 13 FOOTWEAR LOOKS

AS SEEN AT MODA

ISSUE 79

FOOTWEAR AND FASHION EXTRASfashionextras-online.co.uk

£6.00

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FOOTWEAR—19UPDATE —20STYLE FILE—21ON TREND—22REVIEW—31PEOPLE—32INTERVIEW—

ACCESSORIES—35UPDATE—36STYLE FILE—37ON TREND —38REVIEW—40INTERVIEW—42PREVIEW—43BTAA—

CONTENTSMARCH

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Front cover

REGULARS—05EDITOR’S COMMENT—06NEWS—10THE EDGE—12REVIEW—14REVIEW—44THE INSIDER—46IN THEIR SHOES—


TURNING A CORNER

AFTER SEVERAL YEARS OF HEARING ABOUT BRANDS’ STRUGGLESTO SURVIVE AND THE DEMISE OF RETAILERS ALL OVER THE UK,THE POSITIVE MOOD AT MODA LAST MONTH WAS A BREATH OF

FRESH AIR FOR THE INDUSTRY.

POSITIVITYAMONG MODA

BUYERSBuoyant show reported by brands andbuyers at most recent edition, suggesting

new era for trade.

IN BRIEF

FIVE STEPS TO: REDUCING ONLINE RETURNSby Lloyd Williams

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ADVICE

HOW IMPORTANTIS COLOUR TO YOURBRAND?

Karen Haller is one of the UK’s leading authorities in applied colourpsychology. She runs her own colour and design consultancyspecialising in business branding and interiors. www.karenhaller.com

RETAIL VIEW


Scoop InternationalLast month saw the premium womenswear exhibition return to its home at London’s Saatchi Gallery,presenting a range of the industry’s most exclusive collections. FE rounds up some of the best footwear

and accessories seen at the event.

—Ethical accessories label Bottletop returned toScoop with its latest collection of bags, handmadethrough schemes implemented in Africa andBrazil from discarded bottletops. This season seesthe launch of a new technique, which adds anenamel finish to the bottletops, in autumnalshades such as burgundy. www.bottletop.org

—Italian handbag labelCoccinelle unveiled a newcollection for a/w 13 atScoop, revealing a focuson soft, textural finishes indeep jewel shadesincluding burnt orange.The brand maintains itscommitment to stylehallmarks of simplicity,detail and quality for thenew season and continuesto handcraft its styles at its Italian headquartersnear Parma.www.coccinelle.com

—Making its Scoop debut,Italian label Gala Glovespresented a range ofintricate designs craftedfrom supersoft leather atthe brand’s headquartersin Naples. Having beenestablished for over 80years, the label has a firmpresence across Europe aswell as its native Italy,and focuses on feminineembellishment for the newseason. www.galagloves.it

—New to Scoop, HalcyonDays arrived at theexhibition with anintriguing collection ofsilk scarves, jewelleryand pill boxes featuringfamous works of art. Thebrand’s latest rangeincludes its Panthers byMichael Roberts styles(pictured), created inconjunction with former Vanity Faireditor Michael Roberts.www.halcyondays.co.uk

—Building on its signature sole unit inspired by thetraditional Swedish clog, Swedish Hasbeenspresents a diversified range of styles for the newseason, including ankle boots in a range ofcontemporary shades. www.sewnagency.co.uk

—New to the UK and Scoop, German jewellerylabel Namage unveiled a range for the newautumn season, capturing the urban,contemporary style hallmarks of its nativeBerlin. Skulls feature throughout the brand’slatest collection, as well as colour pops in neonshades. www.namage.de

—Jewellery label Mirabelle made itsScoop debut, presenting a handmade,Fairtrade line for a/w 13. Craftedfrom 22k gold plated metals, brass,semi-precious stones, carved motherof pearl, wood and shells from trustedsources, the brand’s offer compriseddelicate styles as well as statementpieces. www.mirabellejewellery.co.uk

The Exhibition atLondon Fashion Week

FE’s Natalie Dawson took to the cobbles of Somerset House to discover what The Exhibition at London Fashion Week had to offer for a/w 13.

Joanne Stoker

Mawi

Lost Property of London

Ruda Rings

Assad Mounser

Shourouk





FOOTWEAR COLLECTION NEWS

BALLET PUMPS

MODA FOOTWEAR

FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY AWARDS

CHIE MIHARA

AMAZONIANTREASURE

FOOTWEAR

This season sees the arrival ofFrench footwear label Piola to theUK, bringing the best qualities ofnatural Peruvian rubber tocontemporary footwear.

RICHTAPESTRYSpanish footwear label PonsQuintana reinterprets its signaturestyle for the new autumn season,adapting its heritage for thecontemporary market.

COOL KICKSMen’s lace-up plimsolls are always a runaway success comespring. Tap into the trend with FE’s pick of in-season styles

available to get in-store now. —

WALKTHIS WAY

THE KEY TRENDS FROM THIS SEASON’SEDITION OF MODA FOOTWEAR.

Yee ha!Cowboy boots were one of the hottest trendsspotted at Moda Footwear this season, with a number of big name brands putting their ownspin on a classic design. Looking particularlystrong for a/w 13 were distressed leather andsuede styles with added details such as fringing,floral embroidery, snakeskin panels and studsand sequins.

Bow selectorLadylike bows adorn this season’s pumps, withpointed toe courts providing the perfect finishingtouch to smart, tailored trends, looking polishedand professional and elongating the leg as theygo. Many brands chose to stay true to atraditionally wintery palette for a/w 13, whilered and rust tones will provide a welcome lift for autumn.

Riding highThe traditional riding boot silhouette is morepopular than ever, and this season buyers atModa were inundated with a choice of glossyleathers in classic tan and black tones.Meanwhile, the addition of forest green, navyand purple shades kept the boot trend lookingfresh. Gold hardware and quilting are the highfashion touches that transform the humble bootinto a bestseller.

TwinkletoesBallet flats had an update for a/w 13 in high-shinemetallics and patent leathers with contrast toe-cap detail. Teal, nude and gold tones, alongwith classic black and white combinations, allmade an appearance, while spikes, studs andbows were the on-trend details not to be missed.

AutumnshadesBuyers were treated to a wash of autumnalcolour across men’s footwear styles, andnowhere was this more apparent than on suedelace-ups. From desert boots to derbies, burgundyand blueberry shades were popular, with forestgreen and rich tan also key.

Suited andbootedSmart boots with brogue detailing once againdominated the a/w 13 footwear line-up at Modalast month. Brands chose to play it safe withclassic tan, brown, navy and black tones,adding in thicker soles for comfort andperformance in winter weather.

Utility modeTrainers and boots took on an urban twist thisseason, underscored by military tones khaki,petrol and stone. The emphasis was on thepractical details such as thicker soles and furlinings for many, while others chose interestingfabric mixes.

To thepointBrogues look stylish and sharp this season withnarrower fits and decidedly pointy toes.Ranging from contemporary to classic designs,brands embraced the new shape, highlighting itwith high-shine finishes.

INDUSTRY WINNERSThe second edition of the Footwear Industry Awards saw the footwear trade celebrate itsachievements on the first evening of Moda Footwear. Christina Williams went along to the

event, which took place at Birmingham’s Motorcycle Museum.

Footwear Brand of the Year: RiekerMen’s Footwear Brand of the Year: Church’sLadies’ Footwear Brand of the Year: RiekerChildren’s Footwear Brand of the Year: Start-RiteComfort / Wellness Brand of the Year: CrocsFashion Brand of the Year: Fly LondonSports Footwear Brand of the Year: SkechersOutdoor Footwear Brand of the Year: Hi-TecMen’s Independent Retailer of the Year:Bishops, Coleraine, County LondonderryLadies’ Independent Retailer of the Year:North Shoes, LincolnshireChildren’s Independent Retailer of the Year:Belles Enfants, Dorset and HampshireIndependent Sports / Outdoor Footwear Retailer ofthe Year: Whalley Warm & Dry, LancashireBest Use of Technology: GeoxNew Independent Retailer of the Year:Little Soles, Warsash, HampshireMultiple Retailer of the Year: John LewisStudent Shoe-fitter of the Year:Jim Luck, Luck of LouthIndependent Family Retailer of the Year:North Shoes, LincolnshireE-tailer of the Year: Cherry BlossomPlatinum Shoe Award: Marcus Baker, LegeroLeader in Customer Service: RiekerShoe Care & Accessories Brand of the Year:Cherry BlossomPrivate Label of the Year: Ascot InternationalFootwear Designer of the Year: Aruna SethPersonality of the Year: Charles Clinkard

Raquel Monroy, marketing manager; Caroline Mackinnon, executiveassistant; Rachael Toft, visitor relations manager; and Tabara N’diaye,marketing executive, all Moda

The winners

Philip Marsh (pictured centre), MD, Chatham, with the Chatham team Miguel Simon, export manager; Alistair West, agent; Robert Cambridge,agent, all Garvalin, with Emily West, agent, Umi

Chris Gorrod, UK MD, and James Podmore, sales manager, Rieker

Kathryn Sherwood, sales manager, FE; Nick West, UK agent, Garvalin;Sharon Le Goff, sales manager, CWB magazine

Peter Rule and James Challis, sales managers, Front; Nigel Styles, sales manager, Azor

Amy Joseph, assistant, and Stephen Joseph, MD for UK sales, Caprice

The founder and designer of the eponymous label revealswhat makes her tick and the secret to the global success of

her quirky designs.

CHIE MIHARA

“A lot of brands have taken awayquality to find better price, and alsotaken away fun and creativity fromthe design to make an easier sale, butthat's taking away the integrity of

the brand, too”

The sensation of walking barefoot

on grass, anytime, anywhere.

Robby Elliott: 07849 382 347

Joe Cordingley: 07813 210 232

Email: [email protected]

INSPIREDBY NATURE

ACCESSORIES

ACCESSORIES COLLECTION NEWS

DROP EARRINGS

MODA ACCESSORIES

MIKE HISCOCK, MODALU

BCTF, HARROGATE

BTAA

This season sees Australianaccessories label Helen Kaminskidevelop its global presence withthe unveiling of its s/s 13 range.Crafted from natural materialsand inspired by its Australianheritage, the brand arrives in theUK with all the charm of thelifestyle down under.

TO CREATE ANDCONSTRUCTHandbag label Modalu takes a philosophical twist this season with a collection thatquestions the difference betweenstyles that are constructed and those that are created.

MAKE A STATEMENTOn the s/s 13 catwalks, big name designers such as Dolce & Gabbana,

Versace and Gucci ensured the trend for large statement jewellery will bearound for some time to come. Follow in their footsteps with FE’s selection

of on-trend and in-season styles. —

MODA ACCESSORIES PLAYED HOST TO ACOMPREHENSIVE SELECTION OF NEW ANDRETURNING ACCESSORIES LABELS ATBIRMINGHAM’S NEC LAST MONTH. FE ROUNDS UP SOME OF THE STAND-OUTSTYLES OF THE EVENT.

MODAACCESSORIES

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MIKE HISCOCKCEO, TLG BRANDS

Following the high-profile endorsement from Pippa Middleton –sister to the Duchess of Cambridge – Modalu has become the

handbag brand of the moment. Part of the TLG stable, the labelhas plans to build on its success throughout 2013, as CEO

Mike Hiscock reveals.


BCTFThe British Craft Trade Fair brings together over 500British exhibitors from the fashion accessories, giftand homeware sectors at Harrogate’s GreatYorkshire Showground next month. FE looks aheadto some of the brands showing at the event, takingplace on 7-9 April.

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BTAA NEWS www.btaa.org.uk

Ahead of the summer months, BTAA member Content & Calm offers travelling parents asolution to the age-old problem of children’s boredom during long journeys. The brand’sTrayKit is designed to be strapped to the tray table of a train or aeroplane or can be hung fromthe car seat in front, and can be used to store a child’s favourite toys and activities for thejourney ahead. The tray, which can also be opened and used as a standalone device, fits withinairlines’ hand baggage dimensions, and is crafted from a durable, wipe-clean fabric.www.contentandcalm.com

TO DIE FOR—

Pete Winkworth, director atToy Soldier PR and MarketingSolutions, selects his favourite

things that he cannot livewithout.

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GIANT LEAP FORONE SMALL STEP

Last month’s report about Clare Rayner’s Indie Easter campaignstruck a chord with readers trading independently in their owncommunities all over the UK.

IN RESPONSE

Easter is a good time to focus on independent retail in South Shields because the area hasalways hosted a fantastic Easter celebration. The holiday period starts with parades marchingthrough the town centre and then, because we are a coastal town, people head down to thecoast to enjoy time with their families and traditional fish & chips. Both of our stores aregenerally very busy in the lead up to Easter because lads want to buy two or three outfits to seethem through the weekend of partying from Good Friday onwards.

Although we do not have any fashion independents trading near us, we do have a variety ofother independents and we have a good relationship with these store owners. I think we couldwork together to promote South Shields as a destination for shopping. Most shopping areasare the same at the moment, with either boarded-up stores or charity and mobile phone shopstaking up spaces on high streets. Along with high rents and rates, it’s no wonder thatindependents are finding it hard. However, I certainly think there is a lot of life in theindependent retail scene yet if we work together.

Nigel Binnie, owner, Northern Threads, South Shields.

ECCO SCALES NEW HEIGHTS

WHICH SHOES DID YOU WEARAT MODA FOOTWEAR?

OPEN FORBUSINESS

THE BIG QUESTION

We reveal the personality behind the industry

SHOP ADDICT— RAILTON WARD SHOES —

I opted for a pair of Grenson shoesbecause they are always comfortableenough to wear throughout the entireday of an exhibition spent on your feet.

—I always wear Softwaves shoes at

exhibitions because, even though theyhave heels, they are comfortableenough to wear all day long.

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Our newly launched Kusa flip-flopsare the perfect choice for exhibitionfootwear because the unique fauxgrass lined inner sole moulds to the

feet for all-day comfort.

I opted for our John White calf leatherstyle for both style and comfort.

First established in 1984, Railton Ward Shoes wastaken over by husband-and-wife team Paul andEmma Woolley in 2006 following the retirement ofthe store’s original owners. Seven years on, the shophas retained many of its original staff and isthriving in the West Sussex village of Findon.

The Clinkard Group hasgrown to become the leadingindependent footwearretailer in the North Eastand one of the largestindependents in the UK.Current managing directorand grandson of thefounders, Charles Clinkardnow heads the business andrecently won the accolade ofPersonality of the Year atThe Footwear IndustryAwards 2013.

CHARLESCLINKARD

Managing director, Charles Clinkard—

21-23 JULY 2013

P H I L L I P S G A L L E R Y S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y

scoop-international.comGosha Ostretsov, Sex in the City, 2008 (c) Stephen White, 2012 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London

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