Fax: Email: [email protected] PROPERTY INSPECTION …gonzrein.com/mdinspections/MDreports_files/O04 Late... · D'Errico Inspections & Consulting Services Kemah, TX 77565 Phone:

D'Errico Inspections & Consulting Services

Kemah, TX 77565

Phone: 281-468-4937Fax: Email: [email protected]

Promulgated by the Texas Real Estate Commission (TREC) P.O. Box 12188, Austin, TX 78711-2188 (512) 936-3000(http://www.trec.texas.gov).

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PROPERTY INSPECTION REPORT

Prepared For: (Name of Client)

Concerning: , San Leon, TX 77539(Address or Other Identification of Inspected Property)

By: Matt D'Errico, Lic #6070 02/25/2015(Name and License Number of Inspector) (Date)

(Name, License Number of Sponsoring Inspector)

PURPOSE, LIMITATIONS AND INSPECTOR / CLIENT RESPONSIBILITIES

This property inspection report may include an inspection agreement (contract), addenda, and other information related to property conditions. If any item or comment is unclear, you should ask the inspector to clarify the findings. It is important that you carefully read ALL of this information.

This inspection is subject to the rules (“Rules”) of the Texas Real Estate Commission (“TREC”), which can be found at www.trec.texas.gov.

The TREC Standards of Practice (Sections 535.227-535.233 of the Rules) are the minimum standards for inspections by TREC-licensed inspectors. An inspection addresses only those components and conditions that are present, visible, and accessible at the time of the inspection. While there may be other parts, components or systems present, only those items specifically noted as being inspected were inspected. The inspector is NOT required to turn on decommissioned equipment, systems, utility services or apply an open flame or light a pilot to operate any appliance. The inspector is NOT required to climb over obstacles, move furnishings or stored items. The inspection report may address issues that are code-based or may refer to a particular code; however, this is NOT a code compliance inspection and does NOT verify compliance with manufacturer’s installation instructions. The inspection does NOT imply insurability or warrantability of the structure or its components. Although some safety issues may be addressed in this report, this inspection is NOT a safety/code inspection, and the inspector is NOT required to identify all potential hazards.

In this report, the inspector shall indicate, by checking the appropriate boxes on the form, whether each item was inspected, not inspected, not present or deficient and explain the findings in the corresponding section in the body of the report form. The inspector must check the Deficient (D) box if a condition exists that adversely and materially affects the performance of a system or component or constitutes a hazard to life, limb or property as specified by the TREC Standards of Practice. General deficiencies include inoperability, material distress, water penetration, damage, deterioration, missing components, and unsuitable installation. Comments may be provided by the inspector whether or not an item is deemed deficient. The inspector is not required to prioritize or emphasize the importance of one deficiency over another.

Some items reported may be considered life-safety upgrades to the property. For more information, refer to Texas Real Estate Consumer Notice Concerning Recognized Hazards or Deficiencies below.

THIS PROPERTY INSPECTION IS NOT A TECHNICALLY EXHAUSTIVE INSPECTION OF THE STRUCTURE, SYSTEMS OR COMPONENTS. The inspection may not reveal all deficiencies. A real estate inspection helps to reduce some of the risk involved in purchasing a home, but it cannot eliminate these risks, nor can the inspection anticipate future events or changes in performance due to changes in use or occupancy. It is recommended that you obtain as much information as is available about this property, including any seller’s disclosures, previous inspection reports, engineering reports, building/remodeling permits, and reports performed for or by relocation companies, municipal inspection departments, lenders, insurers, and appraisers. You should also attempt to determine whether repairs, renovation, remodeling, additions, or other such activities have taken place at this property. It is not the inspector’s responsibility to confirm that information obtained from these sources is complete or accurate or that this inspection is consistent with the opinions expressed in previous

http://www.trec.texas.gov

Report Identification: 20150225-01, , San Leon, TX

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or future reports.

ITEMS IDENTIFIED IN THE REPORT DO NOT OBLIGATE ANY PARTY TO MAKE REPAIRS OR TAKE OTHER ACTIONS, NOR IS THE PURCHASER REQUIRED TO REQUEST THAT THE SELLER TAKE ANY ACTION. When a deficiency is reported, it is the client’s responsibility to obtain further evaluations and/or cost estimates from qualified service professionals. Any such follow-up should take place prior to the expiration of any time limitations such as option periods. Evaluations by qualified tradesmen may lead to the discovery of additional deficiencies which may involve additional repair costs. Failure to address deficiencies or comments noted in this report may lead to further damage of the structure or systems and add to the original repair costs. The inspector is not required to provide follow-up services to verify that proper repairs have been made.

Property conditions change with time and use. For example, mechanical devices can fail at any time, plumbing gaskets and seals may crack if the appliance or plumbing fixture is not used often, roof leaks can occur at any time regardless of the apparent condition of the roof, and the performance of the structure and the systems may change due to changes in use or occupancy, effects of weather, etc. These changes or repairs made to the structure after the inspection may render information contained herein obsolete or invalid. This report is provided for the specific benefit of the client named above and is based on observations at the time of the inspection. If you did not hire the inspector yourself, reliance on this report may provide incomplete or outdated information. Repairs, professional opinions or additional inspection reports may affect the meaning of the information in this report. It is recommended that you hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet your specific needs and to provide you with current information concerning this property.

TEXAS REAL ESTATE CONSUMER NOTICE CONCERNING HAZARDS OR DEFICIENCIES

Each year, Texans sustain property damage and are injured by accidents in the home. While some accidents may not be avoidable, many other accidents, injuries, and deaths may be avoided through the identification and repair of certain hazardous conditions. Examples of such hazards include:

malfunctioning, improperly installed or missing ground fault circuit protection (GFCI) devices for electrical receptacles in garages, bathroom, kitchens, and exterior areas;

malfunctioning arc fault protection (AFCI) devices;

ordinary glass in locations where modern construction techniques call for safety glass;

malfunctioning or lack of fire safety features such as, smoke alarms, fire-rated doors in certain locations, and functional emergency escape and rescue openings in bedrooms;

malfunctioning carbon monoxide alarms;

excessive spacing between balusters on stairways and porches;

improperly installed appliances;

improperly installed or defective safety devices; and

lack of electrical bonding and grounding.

To ensure that consumers are informed of hazards such as these, the Texas Real Estate Commission (TREC) has adopted Standards of Practice requiring licensed inspectors to report these conditions as “Deficient” when performing an inspection for a buyer or seller, if they can be reasonably determined.

These conditions may not have violated building codes or common practices at the time of the construction of the home, or they may have been “grandfathered” because they were present prior to the adoption of codes prohibiting such conditions. While the TREC Standards of Practice do not require inspectors to perform a code compliance inspection, TREC considers the potential for injury or property loss from the hazards addressed in the Standards of Practice to be significant enough to warrant this notice.

Contract forms developed by TREC for use by its real estate licensees also inform the buyer of the right to have the home inspected and can provide an option clause permitting the buyer to terminate the contract within a specified time. Neither the Standards of Practice nor the TREC contract forms requires a seller to remedy conditions revealed by an inspection. The decision to correct a hazard or any deficiency identified in an inspection report is left to the parties to the contract for the sale or purchase of the home.


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INFORMATION INCLUDED UNDER "ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PROVIDED BY INSPECTOR", OR PROVIDED AS AN ATTACHMENT WITH THE STANDARD FORM, IS NOT REQUIRED BY THE COMMISSION AND MAY CONTAIN CONTRACTUAL TERMS BETWEEN THE INSPECTOR AND YOU, AS THE CLIENT. THE COMMISSION DOES NOT REGULATE CONTRACTUAL TERMS BETWEEN PARTIES. IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE EFFECT OF ANY CONTRACTUAL TERM CONTAINED IN THIS SECTION OR ANY ATTACHMENTS, CONSULT AN ATTORNEY.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PROVIDED BY INSPECTOR-Inspection performed at 2:00 p.m., cold day in the 40's, 6 years and 165 day's after hurricane Ike.-Inspection performed with the renters son present, however, he stayed pretty much to himself. He was very cordial. See "Note" below "DISCLOSERS".-The house was built in 2007, as was told to me by the buyers agent. {however,the outside A/C unit was built in 2009}.-Two story structure facing south.-The first {ground} concrete/slab floor has a very small storage closet at center front wood staircase structure. The area under the "right" {east} side of the house appears to be for covered parking. -The living floor is the second floor.-The house was furnished.-There are wood steps in the center/front up to a wood deck landing and long covered porch on the front of the house, that has the second floor "front door". -The second floor exterior walls are sided with 8" wide horizontally installed Hardie siding.-3-tab shingle covered roof, with ridge venting for the attic ventilation, and leaded plumbing vent stack Roof Jacks.-The eave structures have Hardie Facia sided Boards and Hardie sided Soffit's.-There is no garage. The covered parking is under the house.-Overhead electric service drop, the house is all electric.-200-amp meter loop with a 200-amp main breaker in the exterior {G.E.} main breaker panel on the power pole at the center east side of the house. The circuit breaker panel on the upstairs front porch for the house, is a {"Cutler-Hammer-Eaton"} brand panel.-The house is wired with copper wire.-The house is plumbed with CPVC {almond colored plastic} water pipes.-The house is plumbed PVC {white plastic} sewer/drain pipes.-There is a culvert drainage system, along the front of the property at the street, and under the dirt/gravel egress and it's driveway.-There is a decorative roof-top copula, in the center of the Main Ridge of the house.-There is a front facing wood deck porch and a tiled porch, with a continuous house roof over it.-There is no mail box at the street like all the other houses. Please be aware, that the post office may not deliver mail to the house, unless a mail box is installed at the street.


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Please Note: DISCLOSERS:--When I was outside on the front porch looking at the tiled section of porch, the renters son came out and offered the information that the sub-floor and beam under the railing area "was all rotted". I was shocked that he told me this, I did not even ask him one question about the house. He said, the "guys that recently sprayed the insulation on the underside of the house, were not supposed to do under the porch area but they goofed-up and did it". He said "the sub-floor under the porch/tile is all water stained and rotted". I just kept my mouth shut. He said that "his mother just re-secured the Hardie siding back down over the beam under the railing", where the Hardie siding is all cracked. See "Porches, Balconies, Decks, and Carports" section, and it's "Pictures".The last thing he told me, was "that the house was extremely cold inside when the temperatures were really low due to the tile and sub-floor not being insulated, and now with the insulation, it's a little better but not much".He said "they were very happy to be leaving the house". Then he went inside.--I'm documenting this conversation "from" the renters son, due to the information being about the house, and items or facts that in a normal structural mechanical inspection cannot be determined, due to there not being visible or I cannot tell how "cold" the house is due to not living in it. However, I feel since the physical structure deficiency of which I cannot see {due to being insulated/covered} has been disclosed, and the actual "living in" comfortableness of the house has been disclosed to me, it is my duty to relay this information to my clients.The young man was very cordial and I know he did not realize what he was doing, but I want it to be known "that I did not ask him one question about the house". He just came out and "started talking".--Is this information listed on the "Sellers Discloser"?

The buyers are requesting that all of the items to be repaired in the report, are repaired by licensed or certified professionals in each particular field. They are requesting the paper work from these contractors, stating what deficiencies were repaired, how they were repaired, along with their company/business information.

Anro Pest Control is scheduled to perform a pest inspection. Please refer to their report. Anro's billing is totally separate from my report, and was paid for, by the buyer directly to Anro.

Are there hurricane window cover boards/shutters? However, I do not inspect these being present at all {this is just info for the buyer to investigate with the seller}, or for their fitting properly, or for every window having a cover at the time of the inspection.

Disclaimer:I do not inspect refrigerators, wine coolers, hot water dispensers, built-in counter-top appliances, washing machines & dryers, fire-place gas log lighters as far as


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igniting them, window A/C unit's, Intercom Systems, Alarm Systems, built-in vacuum systems, low voltage wires for components such as built-in speakers, home-theater, cable television, telephone, intercom and security systems, Satellite Dish's, sprinkler systems, Stand-by Generator Systems, in-ground yard drainage systems, yard/planter lighting systems, BBQ's, free-standing "package" pools and/or spas, storage sheds, metal buildings and barns, motorized driveway gates, boat docks/sheds and boat hoists, Gazebo's, Palapa's, and Horse Training Apparatus.These are specifically excluded from inspection under the inspectors "Standards of Practice" established by the Texas Real Estate Commission.

There are city street lights, one in front of the house.

There are no city sidewalks.

This inspection does not cover yard/property line fencing and/or it's placement.

Disclaimer:Although I am not a licensed pest inspector, and do not really perform a pest inspection or even have a section on this report pertaining to pest inspection particulars. I feel, however, when and if I find old evidence, new live infestations, or "conducive" to termite situations, it is my duty to point them out to my clients, and advise them that they should have the situation checked out by a licensed pest inspector for his/hers evaluation.

Disclaimer:Although I am not a licensed mold inspector, and do not really perform a mold inspection or even have a section in this report pertaining to mold inspection particulars. I feel, however, when and if I find evidence of mold or a "conducive" situation, it is my duty to point it out to my clients, and advise them that they should have the situation checked out by a licensed mold inspector for his/hers evaluation.

Disclaimer:I am not a certified "caustic agent" inspector. Mold, asbestos, lead-based paint, "Chinese Drywall" or any other type of environmental assessment is beyond the scope of this inspection. I do not perform any testing, or even have a section in this report pertaining to caustic agents particulars. The walls are observed only as is related to structural performance and water penetration. Specifically excluding from this report is the condition of paints, stains, minor cracks, scuffs, nail holes cabinet and counter top finishes and ding's.I feel, however, when and if I find "what I think" may be evidence of caustic agents, it is my duty to point them out to my clients, and advise them that they should have the situation checked out by a certified inspector for his/hers evaluation.


I=Inspected NI=Not Inspected NP=Not Present D=Deficient

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I. STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS

A. FoundationsType of Foundation(s):Post & Beam w/Parking & Room.

Comments:

The foundation, is a Post & Beam structure with a monolithic slab.The Post and Beam structure appears to be NOT functioning as intended at this time.THE MONOLITHIC SLAB APPEARS TO BE IN FINE CONDITION. Rising out of this slab {approx 9'} are 10" square P.T. {pressure treated} posts. Four posts are spaced approximately 12&1/2' feet apart, running east to west, across the front of the house. With rows of four posts spaced approximately 10&1/2' apart running north to south from the front to the back of the house. On top of these north to south rows of posts, there is a beam structure of single 2x12's "bolted" and "let-in" on each side of the post. On top of the beam structure, there are either 2x8", or 2x10" {I could not determine due to the "sprayed-in place" foam insulation} floor joists running east to west 16" O.C. {on center}.The monolithic slab, appears not to carry the weight of the house structure, as the 10" P.T. posts penetrate down through the slab, to the ground. --Can the sellers verify, what type of footing is below the P.T. posts? Are their "in-ground" concrete piers, below the P.T. posts?

DEFICIENCY:The north to south rows of the single 2x12's "bolted" {at the top} on each side of the post are "overloaded" and it can be seen they are deflecting {"bowed"} downward. Normally, with this type of beam structure, there are two 2x12" "bolted together" on each side of the post. They are both bolted together and "let-in" to the post for maximum support. --Also, this deflection of the 2x12's is also being "exhibited" due to the vertical "butt" joints of the 2x12's opening up. One may say that the ends of the 2x12's were not cut "straight", however, all of the butt joints are "opening-up" {or, all of them were "cut-crooked"}. --It also appears, that when the situation of the deflecting "single 2x12"s started to affect the flooring upstairs, that someone "added" extra 2x12's {"scabbed-on"} on one side of each post. However, the new 2x12's are not "let-in" to the post, to structurally be supported down to the slab and post/footing. Also, they are not bolted to the post or their "mate" 2x12, they are just nailed to their mate 2x12.Therefore, these "scabbed-on" 2x12's, although they may "help a little" to stop more defection, they are not going to be adequate.IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, TO HAVE THIS POST AND BEAM SITUATION ASSESSED BY A LICENSED STRUCTURAL ENGINEER. This situation can be repaired, and the floors above can even be somewhat "leveled-out" but it is going to be costly, and there more than likely will need to be major tile work re-done. Also, if left as it is, the beams may still continue to deflect and some tile repair work will continually need to be done.See "Porches, Balconies, Decks, and Carports" section, and it's "Pictures".



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See "Ceilings and Floors" section.See "Doors-Interior" section.See "Pictures" below. The 2x12 deflections are much easier to see "in person" than in the pictures, sorry.



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PLEASE NOTE:

This inspection, is about the condition of the foundation/beam structure, on the day of the inspection only, it offers NO guarantees on



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the foundation in regards to its condition and longevity INTO the future. If further analysis is desired, I recommend having a licensed structural engineer, inspect and assess the condition of the foundation.

B. Grading and DrainageComments:

PLEASE NOTE:

This visual inspection does not warrant or guaranty that this property or structure will not flood or suffer water penetration from rising water and high water conditions. The inspection is designed to determine if water from the roof and atmosphere is adequately directed away from the foundation and structure. Area drains (if present) are not tested for water flow, blockage, and/or termination points.

C. Roof Covering MaterialsTypes of Roof Covering: 3-Tab Composition Shingle

Viewed From: Ground w/Binoculars

Comments:

IN REGARDS TO THE ATTIC VENTING:The upper main ridge of the house, has no venting at all. The decorative Copula in the center of the ridge, although, having Hardie Soffit venting, there is no opening's in the roof decking below the copula, to allow the attic air to rise-up and out of the copula. The two short strips of Ridge Venting on the front lower Gable End ridges, are not nearly enough for the square footage of the entire attic space, and they are "lower" than the main attic/copula ridge.



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The front facing west side Gable End, has it's east side valley roofing material, missing several shingle's.See "Picture" below.

The front facing east side Gable End, has it's west side valley roofing material, missing several shingle's.See "Picture" below.



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The north facing roof, has it's east most plumbing vent stack leaded Roof Jack, having it's PVC pipe penetrating out of it's top.It appears, that this seam has been sealed with tar, however, tar is a temporary repair. It is possible to purchase form a roofing supply business, the top portion of the leaded Jack, and easily install it. This make it not necessary to have to remove the roofing material and old leaded Jack, to install a new Jack.See "Picture" below.

The east facing roof has at least two "nail pops", where a roofing nail under the shingle is "backing-up" out of the decking and "lifting-up" the shingle. The nail needs to be re-set and the shingle re-tared down.See "Picture" below.



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The east facing roof, has a raised-up "ripple" in it's roofing material, down low above the eave structure in the center of the wall.See "Picture" above.

The palm tree needs to be trimmed off of the wall roof, so that, it does not hit the roof even during high winds. --This situation may stop an insurance company from issuing insurance.See "Picture" below.



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The roofing material does not appear to have been professionally installed. The individual roofing shingles are not installed "In-Line" vertically in a professional manor.--Can the sellers verify if the roof was professionally installed?--If so, what is the company name and number?--Is there a warranty on the work?--Can the seller have this paper work?See "Picture" below.

It is highly recommended, to have this roof repaired by a licensed roofer and totally "walked over" for an inspection, by a licensed/certified roofer for another assessment of it's condition.

PLEASE NOTE:

This inspection is not intended to replace any verification for insurability by any homeowner's insurance company. Insurance companies have their own standards and requirements which may differ from acceptable building standards which govern our inspection. For insurability, your homeowners insurance provider should have the opportunity to evaluate the roof covering prior to closing.

Is there a WPI-8 certificate registered for this house? Can the buyer have all the paperwork pertaining to the roof/attic framing? If there is no WPI-8 certificate, THAT MAY BE NEEDED for "Wind and Hurricane" insurance, depending on the area where the house is built and it's insurance hurricane rating, it is recommended to contact an Insurance Company/Representative and determine if a WPI-8 certificate is needed. If the house is in an area that requires a certificate, then the roof/attic should be inspected by a roofing engineer, that can issue a WPI-8 certificate. If necessary, I can recommend one for this purpose.

The roof fastening method is not verified. The Inspector reasonably determines that actions of the inspector to determine the method of fastening may cause damage to the roofing shingles, or possible danger/injury to himself.

This inspection, is for the condition of the house roofing material, on the day of the inspection only, it offers NO guarantees on the roof in regards to its condition and longevity INTO the future.



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D. Roof Structures and AtticsViewed From: Ground Level w Binoculars & Inside Attic

Approximate Average Depth of Insulation: 12"

Comments:

PLEASE NOTE:

See "Roof Covering Materials" section, "IN REGARDS TO THE ATTIC VENTING".

E. Walls (Interior and Exterior)Comments:

EXTERIOR:

The front porch breaker panel, needs it's sides and top sealed to the siding.See "Picture" below.



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At the front porch top stairwell landing, the 1x4 vertical Hardie trim boards on the corner of the house, need their bottom joint re-caulked.See "Picture" below.

The electrical quick disconnect, on the wall by for the A/C unit, needs it's sides and top sealed to the siding.See "Picture" below.



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PLEASE NOTE:

It is highly recommended {when and if the house is re-painted}, to totally seal with a high quality caulk, the vertical and horizontal 1x trim board joints at the corners where the siding "tucks" behind the 1x trim boards. Also, it is a good idea, to seal all of the horizontal and vertical joints of the siding where necessary.

All caulking is a maintenance item, that needs to be inspected twice yearly, and repaired accordingly.

About Caulk:The line of caulk I highly recommend is NP-1 caulk. This is a commercial product that has to be purchased at a commercial supply like ABC Roofing or Kemah Hardware. Home Depot or Lowes do not carry anything that compares to this caulk. This is a one-part polyurethane based caulk that last "forever". It comes in a caulking tube format, and you will need a good strong gun to apply it. This caulk comes in a variety of colors, is paintable and does not need to be primed before painting. However most applicator's will try to talk you out of using it because; One, it cost $8.00 a tube; Two, it is hard to work with, it takes practice; Three, it dry's slowly; it takes at least 3 days before you can paint it. Most applicators use $ 2.00 tubes of caulk, that dry in 10 minutes, so they can get the job done fast. For larger cracks, ½” or more, you can purchase Backer Rod, of which is a long strand of round foam, you buy it by the foot, you then install this foam in the opening and apply the caulk over it.



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F. Ceilings and FloorsComments:

FLOORS:

The front family room floor slopes downward from the front door wall, to the family room/hallway wall.----Also, there are areas where the tiles appear to have been replaced/patched or re-grouted.See "Pictures" below.



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The back north "center" bedroom floor, slopes downward from the north A/C wall towards the hallway/front living room wall.----Also, it appears that the tiles and/or the grout joints have been repaired.See "Pictures" below.



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The guest bedrooms hallway, slopes.----Also, it appears, that the tiles and/or the grout joints have been repaired.See "Pictures" below.



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The master bedroom floor,slopes downward from the north A/C wall towards the hallway/front living room wall.----Also, it appears that the tiles and/or the grout joints have been repaired.See "Picture" below.

The master bathroom floor tiles and/or the grout joints have been repaired.See "Picture" below.

See "Porches, Balconies, Decks, and Carports" section, and it's "Pictures".

PLEASE NOTE:



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CEILINGS:

It appears, that the ceiling drywall has been patched in front of the arch into the guest bedroom hallway.See "Picture" below.

G. Doors (Interior and Exterior)Comments:

INTERIOR:

The guest hall bath door, rubs on the striker side jamb.

The master bedroom door, rubs on the striker side jamb.----Also, it does not latch when closed.

PLEASE NOTE:

All 6 edges of any door {interior or exterior} need to be sealed. When a door is trimmed and or cut, it needs to be re-sealed. This will help prevent the door from taking on moisture and warping in the future. Every door manufacture in the world, puts out a notice with their doors, that their doors will not be guaranteed against warping, if not sealed on all 6 edges.



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H. WindowsComments:

PLEASE NOTE:

Type Of Windows: Double Glazed

I. Stairways (Interior and Exterior)Comments:

J. Fireplaces and ChimneysComments:

K. Porches, Balconies, Decks, and CarportsComments:

It was "disclosed to me, the "re-secured Hardie siding over the beam under the railing", where the Hardie siding is all cracked, is where the beam is rotted.See "Additional Info Provided By Inspector" "Please Note" section, "Disclosers".See "Foundations" section.See "Picture" below.

The tile porch along the beam under the railing, has it's tile floor/beam joint "opened-up", due to the deflecting 2x12 beam structure below, therefore allowing water to seep into the wood sub-floor area.----Also, there appears to be no flashing under the tile floor at this joint, to protect the sub-floor if this tile/beam joint leaks.



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See "Foundations" section and it's "Pictures".See "Picture" below.

The tile porch slopes downward from the south side railing towards the front door exterior wall, due to the deflecting 2x12 beam structure.See "Foundations" section and it's "Pictures".See "Picture" below.

It was "disclosed to me, the "sub-floor under the porch/tile is all water stained and rotted". Where the sprayed on insulation was mistakenly installed.However, there is one small section where the insulation was not installed {sprayed-on}.



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See "Picture" below.

The front porch area, where the wood deck meets the tile floor, has it's 2x6" decking "humped-up", creating a "tripper" situation.See "Picture" below.

PLEASE NOTE:

It appears, that the front porch tile has been repaired, due to the varying color differences in the grout.See "Picture" below.



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The upper porch railings, have open spaces that are larger than 4". The railing spaces cannot allow a 4" diameter sphere to "pass-through".Some type of barrier netting, plastic or glass panels {glass panels need to be tempered and rated for this purpose}, or wood spindles needs to be installed.See "Picture" below.

The front porch ceiling west most recessed ceiling light fixture, has a hole in it's ceiling Hardie siding, next to it.See "Picture" below.



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L. OtherComments:

II. ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

A. Service Entrance and PanelsComments:

The service entrance main breaker panel, has it's interior ground wire from the ground rod, totally disconnected from the grounding bar. The wire appears cut-off and does not even have it's insulation "stripped-off" to insert into the ground bar.THE HOUSE HAS IT'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, CABLE T.V. SYSTEM AND POSSIBLY PLUMBING SYSTEM NOT GROUNDED DUE TO THIS SITUATION.See "Note" below.See "Picture" below.



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The front porch breaker panel, is not an exterior rated panel.----Also, it's exterior metal case is rusting.See "Note" below.See "Picture" below.



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Inside the front porch breaker panel, the top right 40-amp breaker is labeled "dryer". A dryer only needs a 30-amp breaker supplying #10 wire.This 40-amp breaker is to large for the #10 wire that it is supplying power to the dryer with.This 40-amp breaker needs to be changed to a 30-amp breaker.See "Picture" below.

Inside the front porch breaker panel, not all of the breakers are labeled, as to, what devices and where they are supplying power to.See "Picture" above.

PLEASE NOTE:

Meter Loop:See "Picture" below.



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I checked all of the slotted terminal screws {that I could safely check}, in the main breaker panel, and the A/C quick disconnect to make sure they were properly tightened.

It appears that there has been electrical work performed on the house by someone other than a licensed electrician. I highly, recommend having a licensed electrician, check out all of the electrical situations mentioned in this report, so that, there may not be a dangerous situation in the {near or distant} future.

B. Branch Circuits, Connected Devices, and FixturesType of Wiring: Copper Romex

Comments:

INSIDE:

The kitchen receptacle "strip" under the upper cabinets on the west side wall, is not G.F.C.I. protected.See "Picture" below.



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The kitchen counter to the right of the sink, has no receptacle, it must be G.F.C.I. protected.See "Picture" below.

The kitchen receptacle "strip" under the upper cabinets on the east side {porch} wall, is not G.F.C.I. protected.See "Picture" below.

The kitchen counter to the sink of the sink, has no receptacle, it must



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be G.F.C.I. protected.

In the attic, over the stove area, there are romex wire connections that are not in a junction box with connectors and cover plate.See "Picture" below.

The receptacle to the lower left of the laundry closet door, is loose to the wall/box.----Also, it's cover plate is missing it's top screw.See "Picture" below.



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The north "center" bedroom ceiling fan light fixture is not working.Can the seller verify if the problem is with the bulb or the fixture?

The receptacle to the lower right of the pantry door, is loose to the wall/box.

The attic located light switch, is missing a cover plate.See "Picture" below.



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Up in the attic, the orange romex wire needs to be protected, so that it does not get stepped-on, when someone goes up into the attic.See "Picture" below.



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OUTSIDE:

The front porch receptacle by the breaker panel, is not G.F.C.I. protected.----Also, the receptacle needs an exterior rated cover plate.See "Picture" below.

The front porch ceiling west most recessed ceiling light fixture, has it's beauty ring heavily rusted. These fixtures are not really exterior rated.See "Porches, Balconies, Decks, and Carports" section, and it's "Picture".See "Picture" below.



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The two recessed light fixtures, over the east side parking area, are not exterior rated fixtures, and should be "boxed/covered-in" and have beauty rings installed.See "Picture" below.



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The two recessed light fixtures, over the east side parking area, have their conduit electrical lines not properly installed to the fixture's junction boxes. The wires are exposed outside of the junction boxes and in contact with the metal edges of the boxes.See "Note" below.See "Pictures" below.



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The single-gang {switch} bell-box on the post at the bottom of the stairs, has to open 1/2" K.O. {knock-out} holes. These need to be "plugged" with 1/2" threaded K.O. plugs, and the plugs must have white Teflon tape applied their threads.See "Picture" below.



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The single-gang {receptacle} bell-box on the post at the bottom of the stairs, has it's exterior rated cover plate is missing one of it's flapper foam gaskets.

IN REGARDS TO THE OUTSIDE A/C UNIT:The wall mounted quick disconnect, has an open 1/2" K.O. on it's bottom that needs a "press-on" K.O. plug.See "Picture" below.



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PLEASE NOTE:

It appears that there has been electrical work performed on the house by someone other than a licensed electrician. I highly, recommend having a licensed electrician, check out all of the electrical situations mentioned in this report, so that, there may not be a dangerous situation in the {near or distant} future.

III. HEATING, VENTILATION AND AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEMS

A. Heating EquipmentType of Systems: Central

Energy Sources: Electric

Comments:

PLEASE NOTE:

Furnace covers are not removed and the unit is not disassembled for internal inspection of the component per TREC regulations (beyond the scope of this inspection).

See "Cooling Equipment" section and it's "Please Note" section and "Pictures"

Heating Unit #1:



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Brand: Goodman Location: Attic

B. Cooling EquipmentType of Systems: Central

Comments:

Do to the outside ambient temperature being so cold, the test that I run to check the efficiency of the system will not give me an accurate reading, or if it does give me a "good" reading, it still may not be credible, due to the outside unit having no "heat-load" by being in a "hot-air" atmosphere. I recommend, that a licensed A/C tech be hired to check the Freon levels and inspect the internal attic mounted A/C coils, for a written report of their condition and performance. This report should be made available to the buyers.

Due to low ambient temperature, the air conditioning system(s) were not operated (operating during low temperatures may cause damage to the condensing unit).

About The A/C Primary Drain Line:The primary drain line from the A/C coils, drains into a sewer vent stack in the attic. This drain line must have a trap installed in it, as close to the coils as possible. This will stop the sewer gases from backing up the drain line, and into the unit, so they won't be blown throughout the house. A "T" and a riser pipe should be installed in this line, between the trap and the coils. Then a few times a year the owner can pour a few cups of bleach into the drain line, to kill the mold that grows in it, to keep it from plugging up the drain line.See "Picture" below.See "Notes" below.



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The insulation needs to be cleaned out of the attic unit drip pan. If the pan fills with water, the insulation could clog up the drain pipe, causing the water to overflow onto the ceiling. This could be costly damage.See "Picture" below.



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The secondary drain line is not penetrating out of the eave structure Soffit. More than likely, the PVC drain line is terminated inside the eave structure, over the Hardie Soffit holes.The pipe must penetrate down thru the Soffit over a window or door, so that it can easily be seen if it is dripping water.

See "Branch Circuits, Connected Devices and Fixtures" section, and it's "Pictures", "IN REGARDS TO THE OUTSIDE A/C UNIT".

PLEASE NOTE:

When tested, the differential temperature between the return air {intake} and the supply air {output} of the system's, should have low and high allowable parameters between 15 and 20 degrees.

About The Attic Located A/C Primary Drain Line:The primary drain line from the A/C coils, drains into a sewer vent stack in the attic. A few times a year the owner can pour a few cups of bleach into the drain line, into the access standpipe next to the unit, to kill the mold that grows in it, to keep the mold from plugging up the drain line.See "Picture" below.

About The Attic Located A/C Primary Drain Line:The primary drain line from the A/C coils, drains into a sewer vent stack in the attic. A few times a winter the owner can pour a few cups of water into the drain line {see "Picture" below about the bleach}, into the access standpipe next to the unit, to keep the trap filled, so that, sewer gasses do not "back-up" and fill the system therefore



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getting blown throughout the house.

Outside A/C Unit: Brand: Goodman Location: North Side House Model #: By it's Model# having 042, I believe it is a 3&1/2-ton unit. By it's Model# having 13, I believe it is a 13-SEER efficiency rated unit. Mfg Date: By it's Ser# starting with 09, I believe it's manufacture date is in 2009.

General Info:

When the insulation, on the exterior copper pipe to the outside A/C unit/s needs to be replaced, make sure to use the plastic coated insulation that is rated for freon pipe and not cheap water pipe insulation. Heavy duty extra thick {3" diameter} insulation can be purchased at an A/C service supply company, such as Weeks Supply in League City.



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C. Duct Systems, Chases, and VentsComments:

PLEASE NOTE:

The ductwork interiors are not inspected for cleanliness or condition which requires specialized equipment and partial disassembly of the system (beyond the scope of this inspection).

Air flow and system air balancing throughout the house is beyond the scope of this inspection. If air flow or air balancing testing is desired, consult with an HVAC Company that specializes in this type of inspection.

IV. PLUMBING SYSTEMS

A. Plumbing Supply, Distribution Systems and FixturesLocation of water meter: Southwest Front Yard

Location of main water supply valve: House Front Southwest Corner Post

Static water pressure reading: Not Taken

Comments:

The kitchen sink faucet, diverter valve is sticking. This is in the faucets valve body, and is activated when the "spray" handle is squeezed. The diverter valve sends the water to the spray head and stops it from coming out the spout. It currently needs to be lubricated so that it functions normally. There is a special non-toxic waterproof lubricant for faucets that is available.

The guest bathtub spigot, needs to be sealed to the tile surround with



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"Dap" caulk.See "Picture" below.

The master bathtub spigot, needs to be sealed to the tile surround with "Dap" caulk.See "Picture" below.



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See "Water Heating Equipment" section and it's "Please Note" section.

PLEASE NOTE:

Washing machine water supply faucets are visually inspected only (not operated).

The home-owner water shut-off valve, on the front southwest corner P.T. {pressure treated} post.See "Picture" below.

Laundry area very "tight".--Not able to inspect inside closet.See "Picture" below.



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B. Drains, Wastes, and VentsComments:

The master bathtub trap, is not insulated and it is exposed to the climate. This trap "holds" water of which may freeze and crack the PVC trap. It will be a real problem to replace the trap.See "Picture" below.



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The guest bathtub trap, is not insulated and it is exposed to the climate. This trap "holds" water of which may freeze and crack the PVC trap. It will be a real problem to replace the trap.See "Picture" below.



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There is no visible sewer vent stack up thru the roof for the kitchen sink drain system.The stack is not supposed to terminate inside the attic, of which, may allow the build-up of {combustible} sewer gasses in the attic.----Also, Currently, there is no 3" sewer vent stack up thru the roof for the main sewer line. There are only the two 2" vent stacks on the back {north} side facing roof of the house.THIS SHOULD BE REFERRED TO A LICENSED PLUMBER.See "Picture" below.



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C. Water Heating EquipmentEnergy Sources: Electric

Capacity: 50-Gallons

Comments:

Up in the attic, it can be seen that the pressure relief valve pipe ends and will discharge into the drip pan. The valve is supposed to have it's own "dedicated" drain line to the outside.The drain line needs to be 3/4" gravity drained, to the outside lowest section of the slab. This piping can either be copper, galvanized or CPVC plastic. This drain line must terminate with it's end pointing down, within 6" of the ground/slab.--Currently, if the tank malfunctions, and the pressure relief valve "opens-up", it will "blow-out" scalding hot water so forceful that more than likely it will splash-out of the drip pan in the attic, onto the insulation/ceiling and possibly flood the house.CAUSING COSTLY DAMAGE.See "Picture" below.

The insulation needs to be cleaned out of the drip pan. If the pan fills with water, the insulation could clog up the drain pipe, causing the water to overflow onto the ceiling. This could be costly damage.See "Picture" above.

The {"single"} drain pipe, for both the pressure relief valve and the drip pan, needs to cut off so that it's discharge-end is 6" above the slab.See "Picture" below.



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PLEASE NOTE:

It appears that there has been plumbing work performed on the house by someone other than a licensed plumber. I recommend having a licensed plumber, check out all of the plumbing situations mentioned in this report and any other that he may find.

The tank is a G.E. brand of tank.

D. Hydro-Massage Therapy EquipmentComments:

E. Gas LinesComments:

F. OtherComments:

PLEASE NOTE:

V. APPLIANCES



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A. DishwashersComments:

About the dishwasher:The drain line from the dishwasher must be looped up to the bottom of the COUNTER, in a nice easy bending loop with no kinks, and secured there usually with two or three clamps, before it hooks up to the disposer or sink drain. This forms an anti-siphon loop to prevent the back flow of sink water, when a full well of water is drained all at once, from backing down into the dishwasher.See "Picture" below.

B. Food Waste DisposersComments:

C. Range Hood and Exhaust SystemsComments:



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The stove hood if it is vented, needs it's vent tube to discharge outside of the structure, and terminate with an approved wall mounted vent termination hood or Roof Jack.Currently, the vent tube terminates inside the attic, by the front Gable End vent. This may allow a collection of grease inside the attic over the years, of which, may become a fire hazard.See "Picture" below.

Two of the four bottom mounted cook-top light's are not working.--Can the sellers verify if the problem is with the bulbs or the fixtures?

PLEASE NOTE:

Type of System: Specific Hood Unit

Discharge Location: Out Roof-Top

D. Ranges, Cooktops, and OvensComments:

E. Microwave OvensComments:



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F. Mechanical Exhaust Vents and Bathroom HeatersComments:

Up in the attic, there are no visible duct tubes from the bathroom ceiling exhaust fans, to the exterior of the structure.The duct tubes need to discharge outside of the structure, and terminate with an approved wall mounted vent termination hood or Roof Jack.Currently, if the ceiling exhaust fans discharge inside the attic, this may allow moisture from the bathrooms inside the attic over the years, of which, may foster mold growth in the attic.

PLEASE NOTE:

G. Garage Door OperatorsComments:

H. Dryer Exhaust SystemsComments:

Up in the attic, there is no visible duct tube from the dryer to the exterior of the structure.The duct tube need to discharge outside of the structure, and terminate with an approved wall mounted vent termination hood or Roof Jack.Currently, if the dryer discharges inside the attic, this may allow moisture and lint to build-up inside the attic over the years, of which, may foster mold growth or become a fire-hazard in the attic. --The vent tube is not supposed to vent thru the Hardie Soffit venting holes.

PLEASE NOTE:

Laundry area very "tight".--Not able to inspect inside closet.See "Picture" below.



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Energy Source: 4-Prong 220-volt Outlet w/no Gas Supply

Vent Location: Not able to determine

I. OtherComments:

Please Note:

There is no doorbell system.

VI. OPTIONAL SYSTEMS

A. Landscape Irrigation (Sprinkler) SystemsComments:



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B. Swimming Pools, Spas, Hot Tubs, and EquipmentType of Construction: Pool Construction Types

Comments:

C. OutbuildingsComments:

D. Private Water Wells (A coliform analysis is recommended)Type of Pump: Water Pump Types

Type of Storage Equipment: Water Storage Equipment

Comments:

E. Private Sewage Disposal (Septic) SystemsType of System: Septic Systems

Location of Drain Field:

Comments:

F. OtherComments:

Documents

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