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fashion of photog
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Fashion as Photograph(the body in fashion photography)
Catalogue/product photography
Ghost mannequin
First permanent photographs
produced on a polished pewter plate covered with a petroleum derivative called bitumen of Judea, which he then dissolved in white petroleum.[8] Bitumen hardens with exposure to light. The unhardened material may then be washed away and the metal plate polished, rendering a positive image with light regions of hardened bitumen and dark regions of bare pewter.[8] Niepce then began experimenting with silver compounds based on a Johann Heinrich Schultz discovery in 1727 that silver nitrate (AgNO3) darkens when exposed to light.[9]
Louis Daguerre, Boulevard de Temple, 1838/9
William Henry Fox Talbot• Invented a Pixing process• Calotype – process using silver nitrate (as in black and white negative
used in chemical processing today).• UK in 1840
Lady Alice Mary Kerr's Portrait of Wilfrid Scawen Blunt, c.1870
Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione, photographed by Adolphe Braun, 1856a Tuscan noblewoman at the court of Napoleon IIIIn 1856, Adolphe Braun published a book containing 288 photographs of her so she becomes one of the Pirst fashion models
The Countess of Castiglione in a photo by Pierre-‐Louise Pierson, c.1863/66Relationship between photographer model and clothing-‐ theatrehelp her create 700 different photographs in which she re-‐created the signature moments of her life for the camera. She spent a large part of her personal fortune and even went into debt to execute this project. Most of the photographs depict the Countess in her theatrical outPits, such as the Queen of Hearts dress.
Photographed by Pierson 1861-‐1867
Age of the fashion magazine
• Improvements in the halftone printing (dot) process means photographs can be reproduced in magazines
• First ten years of the 1900’s• Before this drawn illustrations were used.
Petersons magazine plate , 1888
Paul Poiret (1879-‐1944)• House of Worth (Charles Worth, father of haute couture)• Freedom from corsetry• Signature shapes-‐ hobble skirt, harem pants• Clothing cut along straight lines• InPluenced by antique dress-‐ draping
Edward Steichen photographs Paul Poirets designs for Art et Décoration, 1911Early modern fashion shootHe was a photographer for the Conde Nast magazines Vogue and Vanity Fair from 1923–1938, and concurrently worked for many advertising agencies including J. Walter Thompson. During these years Steichen was regarded as the best known and highest paid photographer in the world
Adolf de Meyer, 1920’s
Martin Munkacsi, early to mid 1930’s
News and sport photographerCasualness introducedUnlike the romanticised or statue-‐esque
‘Steichen redifned fashion photography using the avante garde framework of sharp focus modernism: directional lighting, graphic effects unusual angles an interest in geometry and a desire to inject a sense of contemporary life into his images’ Kate Rhodes The elegance of the everyday
La Mode Pratique, 1938
Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar• Leaders in fashion photography in the 1920’s and 30’s• Hoyningen-‐Huene for HB (photographs for Madame Vionnet)• Horst P. Horst for Vogue• Cecil Beaton for British Vogue
Hoyningen-‐Heune, 1931Madame Vionnet
Horst P Horst Costume for Salvador Dalí’s “Dream of Venus”. 1939
His method of work typically entailed careful preparation for the shoot, with the lighting and studio props (of which he used many) arranged in advance. His instructions to models are remembered as being brief and to the point. His published work uses lighting to pick out the subject; he frequently used four spotlights, often one of them pointing down from the ceiling. Only rarely do his photos include shadows falling on the background of the set. Horst rarely, if ever, used Pilters.
Cecil Beaton (1904-‐ 1980)• British Vogue and Vanity Fair• Photographed and was a member of the “Bright Young Things” of the
1920’s/30’s• Photographed British Royals• ProliPic diarist• designed sets, costumes, and lighting for Broadway
Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930’s
Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton
(21 April 1906 – 28 February 1987) was a British aristocrat known for his decadent lifestyle. It is said, albeit apocryphally, that he spent most of his life in bed.
Queen Elizabeth II in 1968
In the White Drawing Room in Buckingham Palace
Lee Miller (1907-‐1977)Photographed by Steichen American photographer and fashion model at age 19
photographer• Goes to Paris in 1929 with photographer Man Ray• Involved in the surrealist movement in photography
This image:• Photograph of Eileen Agar, Brighton, England 1937
War correspondent
In 1944 she became a correspondent accredited to the US Army, and teamed up with Time Life photographer David E. Scherman. She followed the US troops overseas on 'D' Day + 20. She was probably the only woman combat photo-‐journalist to cover the war in Europe and among her many exploits she witnessed the siege of St Malo, the Liberation of Paris, the Pighting in Luxembourg and Alsace, the Russian/American link up at Torgau, the liberation of Buchenwald and Dachau. She billeted in both Hitler and Eva Braun's houses in Munich, and photographed Hitler's house Wachenfeld at Berchtesgaden in Plames on the eve of Germany's surrender. Penetrating deep into Eastern Europe, she covered harrowing scenes of children dying in Vienna, peasant life in post war Hungary and Pinally the execution of Prime Minister Lazlo Bardossy.
Louise Dahl Wolfe• From 1936 to 1958 Dahl-‐Wolfe was a staff fashion photographer at
Harper’s Bazaar.• From 1958 until her retirement in 1960, Dahl-‐Wolfe worked as a
freelance photographer for Vogue, Sports Illustrated, and other periodicals.
• “Environmental” fashion photography
Night bathing, 1939
Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown, 1953
1940’s 50’s
In 1935, American Kodak introduced the Pirst modern "integral tripack" colour Pilm and called it KodachromeCindy Sherman
William Klein, 1950’s
In BBC doumentary he says that he doesnt see himself as a fashion photographer, it was just something that he was asked to do.
His documentary style comes through in the informality, known for his use of blurr and movement in doc, here using a long lens.David Bailey (1938-‐)Mick Jagger,
British VogueThe Pilm Blowup (1966), directed by Michelangelo Antonioni, concerns the work and sexual habits of a London fashion photographer played by David Hemmings and is largely based on Bailey.
Terence Donovan Spy Drama 1962
Brian Duffy Jean Shrimpton on the Edgeware Road, 1960
Richard Avedon (1923 -‐2004)• Harpers Bazaar till 1966• Vogue 1966 onwards• The book ‘In the American West’
Tina Turner, 1971
Bill Curry, Drifter, Interstate 40, Yukon, Oklahoma, from In the American West, 1985
Helmut Newton (1920-‐2004)Vogue and Harpers Bazaar
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan shoes
During his military service in Dakar (1948–1949), he received his Pirst photography training as a cadet in the French Air Force.[1]In 1950 he returned to Paris, where he met Man Ray, and became his protege.His Pirst fashion shots were published in the February issue of Vogue Paris in 1955. He continued to work for the magazine until 1987.[1]
Jamel Shabazz, Back in the days, published 2002
August 1980
I-‐D magazine vs The Face1995
1997
1990,sMagazines rePlected pop culture-‐ music Pilm, clubbingDerek ridgers and Steve Johnson-‐ subjects against a brick wall rather than white studio backdrop-‐ ‘straight-‐up’
Juergen Teller (1964-‐ )• German photographer• Photos in The Face, Vogue• Has worked with Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs• Works with musicians• Annie Morton , 1996
Corrine Day (1965-‐2010)• British fashion photographer and model• Worked for the Face and Vogue• Vogue cover with Kate Moss credited with the beginnings of the trend for
the ‘waif’ look.
Day used Kate Moss as the model in an eight-‐page fashion story for The Face, in July 1990. The story showcased garments by Romeo Gigli, Joseph Tricot, Ralph Lauren, and a feather head-‐dress from the now-‐defunct Covent Garden boutique World
Corrine Day• Tara
A documentary project• Exhibited at Gimpel Fils gallery in 2000
Adobe Photoshop• Digital image manipulation • graphics editing program• First launched 2003
Terry Richardson• Book Terryworld published 2004• US photographer• Has worked for Vogue, Vanity Fair, ID magazine. Harpers Bazaar• Sisley, Diesel, Mango• H&M,
Nick Knight• UK photographer• Worked with Yohji Yammamoto in the 90’s and with Alexander McQueen,
Christian Dior• Shots for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Another Magazine• This image: with designer Gareth Pugh for Mercedes Benz campaign of
2009
Fashion and the fantasticalWoman as super hero/ carTransform-‐ body and machinePugh architectural designs
Fashion blogging• Democratises fashion photography• Anyone can write about/ photograph fashion• Eg: Tavi Gevinsons “Style Rookie”
Streetstyle Copenhagen
Ordinary people/styleVersions of the street style website from all over the worldPoppy Dinsey, 2011
What I wore today-‐ outPit for every day.UK, 24 years old
‘internet sensation, book published
wiwt.com
•20 or more fashion bloggers celebrated•Put forward as a way into employment
• Seems to celebrate ‘real’ and ‘street’ fashion
Exacitudes-‐ Ari Versluis (photographer) and Ellie Uyttenbrock (stylist)Neighbours, Rotterdam 2008
Casettes gang, London 2008
