Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Entry Cubbies pattern is brought to you by Woodworking for Women magazine.See the last page for a special offer from Woodworking for Women magazine.
From Woodworking for Women magazine, March 2005, Vol. 2 No. 2, Pages 46-50, Copyright 2005 Woodworking for Women magazine
PROJECT NOTESFor your wood choices, this unit can be
made out of virtually anything: a nice 3⁄4-
inch plywood, pine, poplar or even old
barn wood. Be creative!
CUTTING Notes: Use circular saw or radial arm
saw throughout unless otherwise stated.
Sand flat surfaces of all boards after
cutting. Sand edges as indicated.
Shelves, feet and top
1Cut the 1x6 into three 36-inch
lengths. Using the table saw, rip
each shelf to 41⁄2 inches wide (F) for
shelf fronts. Sand to round over the front
edges only.
2Cut the 1x4 into two 12-inch
lengths (G) for feet. Decide which
edge will be the top of each foot.
Mark in from each end (toward the
middle) 11⁄4 inches. Set miter saw to a 45-
degree angle and cut from the 11⁄4-inch
mark toward the outer edge (Fig 1).
3From the 10-foot 1x8, cut two
351⁄4-inch lengths (A) for two
middle shelves, and one 36-inch
length (C) for bottom shelf. Set the table
saw blade to a 15-degree angle and set
the fence so the short point of the cut is
at 61⁄8 inches. Rip both middle shelves
(A) and bottom shelf (C).
4From 4-foot 1x8, cut one 38-inch
length (E) for unit top. With the 1⁄4-inch roundover bit in the router,
Entry Cubbies Design by Anna Thompson
Wet mittens and muddy boots in winter, wet towels and beach toys in summer—these entry cubbies will hold it all!
PROJECT SIZE
37x37x12 inches
TOOLS
Circular saw or radial arm saw Table saw Miter saw Router with 1⁄4-inch roundover and 3⁄4-inch straight bit Combination square 4-foot straight edge Clamp Jigsaw Sander with 180-grit sandpaper Drill with countersink and 1⁄8-inch drill bit, or power screwdriver
SUPPLIES
1x6 white pine or poplar: 10 feet 1x4 white pine or poplar: 3 feet 1x8 white pine or poplar: one 10-foot length and one 4-foot length 1x12 white pine or poplar: 8 feet 1x10 white pine or poplar: 8 feet 3⁄8x48x48-inch bead board* Wood glue 11⁄4-inch 6d finish nails 15⁄8-inch screws 1-inch brad nails
*This may either be tongue and groove slats that lay 31⁄2 inches, or bead board paneling. Some lumberyards will sell 1⁄2 sheet of the paneling, some won’t. Choose whichever is the most cost effective or appealing to you.
CIRCULAR SAW*
TABLE SAW**
MITER SAW***
*or crosscut handsaw**or rip saw
***or miter box with hand saw
ROUTER
COMBINATIONSQUARE
STRAIGHT EDGE
CLAMP
SANDER
DRILL
J IGSAW
TO O L S
From Woodworking for Women magazine, March 2005, Vol. 2 No. 2, Pages 46-50, Copyright 2005 Woodworking for Women magazine
ENTRY CUBBIES(Actual Sizes)
P T W L #
A ¾" 61⁄8" 35¼" 2
B ¾" 9½" 36" 2
C ¾" 61⁄8" 36" 1
D ¾" 9¼" 11½" 6
E ¾" 7¼" 38" 1
F ¾" 4½" 36" 3
G ¾" 3½" 12" 2
H 3⁄8" 35¼" 371⁄8" 1
shape the top and bottom edges of the
front and sides of unit top (E). Change
the router bit to the 3⁄4-inch straight bit.
Set the router fence (guide) to 3⁄8-inch
and the router bit to 3⁄8-inch. Place unit
top, bottom up, on your work surface
and secure so it won’t move while you
are routing. Make a mark 11⁄4 inch in
from each end along the back edge.
Rout a rabbet for the back bead board.
Be sure to stop 11⁄4 inches in from the
ends. (Leave the router at this setting.)
ASSEMBLY DIAGRAM
E
Back
D
D
D
D
D
D
B
B
A
A
C
G
G
F
F
F
12"11/4"
11/4"
21/4"31/2"
Feet Cutting DiagramFig. 1
From Woodworking for Women magazine, March 2005, Vol. 2 No. 2, Pages 46-50, Copyright 2005 Woodworking for Women magazine
36"
34"
241/2"
233/4"
213/4"
121/4"
111/2"
91/2"
91/2"61/2"
Line A
Line B
Line C (Dado)
Line D
Line E
Line G
Side Cutting DiagramFig. 2
Out
side
Edg
e
Rab
bete
d E
dge
Insi
de L
ine
Line F (Dado)
Sand to smooth out the roundover if
necessary.
Sides
1Cut the 1x12 into two 36-inch
lengths (B) for sides. With the rout-
er already set for the backboard
rabbets, rout the back inside edge of
each of the sides. Remove router guide.
2Rip the board to a width of 91⁄2
inches, cutting away the side
opposite the rabbeted edge.
3Measure 61⁄2 inches from uncut
part of the rabbeted edge and
make a pencil mark at the top
and bottom of the board. Draw a light
line between the pencil marks. This will
be the inside line, and the side opposite
the rabbet is the outside edge. Note: Be
sure to make your marks lightly and
in pencil, heavy enough that you don’t
have to strain to see them, but light
enough that they will sand off easily.
4Butt the two sideboards
together so rabbets are up and
top and bottom edges are flush.
Referring to Fig. 2, measure from the top
down on the inside line. Make marks at
each of the following measurements and
label as shown: (A) 91⁄2 inches, (B) 111⁄2
inches, (C) 121⁄4 inches, (D) 213⁄4 inches,
(E) 233⁄4 inches, (F) 241⁄2 inches and (G)
34 inches. Square across each of the
lines, marking both boards.
5Draw a light line from the top of
the inside line to the outside edge
where it intersects line A. Draw a
line from this point to the inside line at
line B. Continue from this point to the
outside edge at line D, the inside line
at line E, the outside edge at line G and
ending at the inside line at the bottom of
the board.
6Repeat step 5 on the other
sideboard. The two sides should
be mirror images of each other.
From Woodworking for Women magazine, March 2005, Vol. 2 No. 2, Pages 46-50, Copyright 2005 Woodworking for Women magazine
7Clamp sides together with
rabbeted edges together, tops and
bottoms flush, and the inside of the
boards (with the pencil marks) facing up.
Note: Be sure the dado lines for each
board line up. If they do not, recheck
your measurements and make the
necessary adjustments.
8Measure the distance between
the edge of the router bit and the
closest edge of the router base.
Clamp a straight edge that measurement
above line B and use it as a guide for
your router. Set the router bit depth to 3⁄8 inch. Cut the dado all the way across
the width of both boards. Note: You
may wish to use a straight piece of wood
as your guide, attaching it to your
sideboards by screws driven into the
waste area above line B here and line E
in the next step. Repeat this step at line E.
9With the jigsaw, cut both side-
boards. Set the boards up so they
are each resting on the back edge.
Compare the patterns and the dadoes to
confirm they are exact mirror images.
10Sand the edges and slightly
roundover the outside
corners. Sand the inside
corner only on the 91⁄2-inch angle cut.
Dividers
1Cut 1x10 into six 111⁄2-inch pieces
(D) for dividers.
2Referring to Fig. 3, mark divid-
ers as follows: At the top of each
divider, measure from the back
toward the front and make a mark at 61⁄8
inches. Do the same at the bottom. Mea-
sure from the top down along the front
edge and make a mark at 91⁄2 inches. With
the straight edge, draw a line from the top
61⁄8-inch mark to the 91⁄2-inch mark, then to
the bottom 61⁄8-inch mark.
3With the jigsaw, cut
six dividers. Stack the
dividers and confirm
that they are all the same;
adjust as needed.
ASSEMBLE & FINISH
1Dry fit the two middle
shelves (A) into the
dadoes in the sides (B).
The angle cut on the front
edge of the shelf board should
line up with the angle of the
cut in the sideboard. The back
of the shelf should be flush
with the rabbet for the unit back. Place
the bottom shelf (C) against the bottom
of the sideboards.
2Check for fit. If the fit is satis-
factory, disassemble the shelves,
spread glue in the dadoes and
reassemble. Secure middle shelves with
three evenly spaced 6d finish nails driven
into the shelf ends through the outside
of the sideboards. Slightly sink the nail
head, then spackle the hole. Place the
bottom shelf against the bottom of the
sideboards and secure with a bead of
glue and 15⁄8-inch screws.
3Determine the placement of
the dividers (D), and glue and
nail or screw them in place. Nail
down from the top into the dividers, but
screw up from the bottom. Remove all
excess glue.
4Place the top (E) on the sides.
Be sure the back is flush with
the back of the sides, the rabbets
match up, and there is a 1-inch overhang
on each side. Glue and nail in place. Nail
also into the two dividers supporting the
top. Spackle the nail holes.
5Place each shelf front (F) along
the upward angle of the sides and
dividers. Drill 1⁄8-inch pilot holes
and countersink two 15⁄8-inch screws into
each side and divider. Glue and screw in
place. Spackle the screw head.
6Center the feet (G) against
the sideboard, making sure the
bottom of each foot is flush with
the respective sideboard. Glue and screw
them in place using countersunk 15⁄8-inch
screws.
7Measure the opening for the
back (H), approximately 351⁄4x371⁄8
inches. If you are working with
paneling, cut it to the measurements just
taken and install with 1-inch brad nails,
nailing into the shelf backs as well.
8If you are using 31⁄2-inch slats,
cut 11 of them to length. Find the
center of the unit. This will be the
placement of the center of your first slat.
Attach the first slat with 1-inch brad nails.
Lay the slats together and attach them,
from center out, until you reach the last
spot on each side. Measure the width of
the last piece on each side and rip each
slat to the respective width. Secure with
1-inch brad nails.
9Paint or stain as desired
following manufacturer’s
directions. ■
61/8"
61/8"91/8"
91/2"
111/2"
2"
91/2"
2"
Dividers Cutting DiagramFig. 3
From Woodworking for Women magazine, March 2005, Vol. 2 No. 2, Pages 46-50, Copyright 2005 Woodworking for Women magazine
