EnRoute#9

in bed with best western

Issu

e 09

• Yo

urs

to

kee

p

exploreenjoy a coldie with Queensland’s locals

passportParadise found in the Philippines

sportthe truth behind sporting obsessions

The redheaded beauty on fashion and fame

islaislafisher

+great drives around tassie

three

weekenderFollow the food trail in regional nsw

01_ER9_CoverV3.indd 1 22/4/09 10:33:39 AM

Around the world there are millions of children living in poverty. Best Western and World Vision have joined forces to � ght poverty in the developing world and give children the lift they need to reclaim their childhood. Together we encourage all Best Western members, staff, guests, family and friends to sponsor a child through World Vision.

To sponsor a child visit worldvision.com.au/bestwestern © 2009 World Vision Australia ABN 28 004 778 081 is a Christian relief, development and advocacy organisation dedicated to working with children, families and communities to overcome poverty and injustice. Ref # C&DR09.

www.bestwestern.com.au 1

WELCOME!I am pleased to be sharing our ninth issue of En Route Australasia, with more destinations and stories from around Australia and New Zealand.

In this nostalgic issue, we delve into the traditions of Maori culture and visit South Australia’s capital city – a city that has embraced its heritage to become a thriving delight for tourists.

Join us in a chat with the locals of some of Queensland’s most remote and traditional pubs, plus, follow the fanatical world of Australia’s obsessed sporting fans.

Also this issue, En Route meets down-to-earth Aussie movie star Isla Fisher and finds out what it takes to be a mother and Hollywood glamour girl. We also head to New Zealand’s South Island for a road test of this year’s best wines.

From Tasmanian weekend drives and the popular New Zealand city of Hamilton to the abundance of gourmet surprises in central-west and north-west NSW and the enchanting islands of the Philippines, I hope you enjoy another inspirational issue of En Route.

Whatever your reason for travel, thank you for staying with Best Western.

Robert AndersonChief Executive OfficerBest Western Australasia

Disclaimer: The information included in this magazine is intended for interest only. The opinions and views expressed in this magazine are provided in the writers’ personal capacities and are their sole responsibility. Their publication does not imply that they represent the views or opinions of Best Western or Edge Custom Media and must neither be regarded as constituting advice on any matter nor be interpreted as such. The reproduction of advertisements in this publication does not in any way imply endorsement by Best Western or Edge Custom Media of products or services referred to therein. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. A selection of the images featured in this publication have been sourced from iStock Photo, Photo Library and Jupiter Images. Business Essentials trading as Edge Custom Media ABN 22 062 493 869.

EDITORKristy Barratt [email protected]

SUB EDITORSLindsay Hayman and Sanchia Pegley

MANAGING EDITORGeorgina Armour

SENIOR DESIGNERSYulia Santoso and Kate Barnett

PRODUCTION MANAGERRachel Walsh

ACCOUNT MANAGERLaura Macdonald

ACCOUNT DIRECTORSarah Willmott

COMMERCIAL DIRECTORCraig Hodges

CEOEddie Thomas

En Route Australasia is published on behalf of Best Western by

51 Whistler Street, Manly NSW 2095T +61 (0) 2 8962 2600

Level 1/115 Elizabeth StreetMelbourne VIC 3000T: +61 (0) 3 9604 6700

IMAG

E: C

Ou

RTES

Y O

F G

ETTY

IMAG

ES

IN BED WITH BEST WESTERN

ISSU

E 09

• YO

URS

TO

KEE

P

EXPLOREEnjoy a coldie with Queensland’s locals

PASSPORTParadise found in the Philippines

SPORTThe truth behind sporting obsessions

The redheaded beauty on fashion and fame

ISLAFISHER

+GREAT DRIVES AROUND TASSIE

three

WEEKENDERFollow the food trail in regional NSW

2_ER9_Welcome.indd 2 21/4/09 2:13:24 PM

Best Western Rewards – now even more rewarding. Earn 10 points for every US$1 you spend* when you stay at any of our 4,000 Best Western hotels worldwide.

Global Benefits. Global Rewards.

*Points are available on eligible stays (excluding packages, group bookings or last-minute rates) and are based on US Dollars. All Best Western hotels are independently owned and operated.

Visit us: www.bestwestern.com.au I www.bestwestern.co.nzCall: 131 779 (from Aust.) or 0800 237 893 (from NZ)

48_ER9_Happy Holidays.indd 50 20/4/09 2:09:59 PM


REGULARS10 SPOTLIGHT

Uncover quirky treasures and natural gems in New Zealand’s fourth-largest city, Hamilton.

12 CULTURE VULTUREStriking tattoos and centuries-old mythology are just a small insight into the intriguing culture of the Maori people.

14 CITY STYLEAdelaide is now emerging as a city that is proud of its heritage.

16 SPORTAussies love to show support for their favourite sporting heroes, but for some it becomes an obsession.

FEATURES22 GOLDEN GIRL

Isla Fisher talks fashion, motherhood and how she feels about super-stardom.

26 TAPPING INTO COUNTRY PUBS En Route discovers what all the hype is over Queensland’s country pubs.

30 BUSH TUCKER Experience delicious local produce and a wealth of local history in central-west and north-west NSW.

40 ALL THAT GLITTERS Here’s a taste of what’s on offer in the lush Philippines.

38FIGHTING FOR THE FISHEn Route investigates how Sydney-based marine group, Eco Divers, is helping to change the world.

The nostalgia issuecontents

CHECK INThe latest news, events, products and reviews.

4

18 GREAT DRIVESSet off on a foodie-friendly tour of Tasmania, the Apple Isle.

34 GRAPE ESCAPESWe’ve uncovered this year’s best wines – all the way from New Zealand’s South Island.

44 ON THE MOVE WITH KIDSEn Route revisits the old-fashioned fun of traditional board games like Monopoly.

48 HAPPY HOLIDAYSSusie Maroney on her best-ever holidays.

REGULARS

The nostalgia issuecontents

FEATURES

The nostalgia issuecontents SEE

PAGE 4

38FIGHTING FOR THE FISHEn Route Sydney-based marine group, Eco Divers, is helping to change the world.

3_ER9_Contents.indd 3 22/4/09 10:50:11 AM

Ima

ge

cou

rtes

y o

f st

eph

an

Ie g

Ilm

ore

4 www.bestwestern.com.au

CHECK-IN

news, reviews, events and much, much more...

Girls just wanna have funThe great Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku, first began the lifestyle of surfing in Australia in 1915 with his exhibition of wave riding at Sydney’s Freshwater Beach. Since that time, surfing Down Under has been predominately portrayed as a male sport. But with female surfers, such as Stephanie Gilmore, riding the waves to new surfing heights, there is no better time for girls to get in on the action. Surfing offers a total body workout, so it’s no wonder that more girls are trying out this iconic Aussie pastime. The best way to get started is to book in a few lessons at your local surf school. The friendly instructors at Manly Surf School on Sydney’s Northern Beaches are professional surfers and will immediately put you at ease – and have you standing up in no time! The school is open year-round, and with all gear – including wetsuits – provided there’s no excuse to let the winter chill put you off. To find out more, visit www.manlysurfschool.com.

Tea for meHigh tea, a favourite British pastime that dates back to the 1700s, is fast becoming one of the best ways to enjoy an afternoon of culinary indulgence. From chocolate-dipped strawberries served on three-tiered platters to freshly baked scones with jam and cream, various haunts across Australia offer tea-lovers the chance to relive the nostalgia that an exquisite ‘tea party’ brings. En Route’s pick as the best high tea experience is at the Guillaume at Bennelong restaurant within Sydney Opera House.

Best Western’s changing face Since July last year, Best Western’s portfolio of Australian and New Zealand properties has grown by eight – a busy period for the international hotel chain. Today, with the addition of new hotels in locations such as Wanaka (Best Western Belvedere Luxury Apartments), Christchurch (Best Western Camelot Motor Lodge) and Dunedin (Best Western 555 on Bayview), there is a total of 11 hotels spread across the North and South Islands of New Zealand. New hotels have also been added in Brisbane, Coolum, Cotton Tree, Port Douglas and Toowoomba (in Queensland), Batemans Bay (on the NSW south coast) and Launceston (in Tasmania). All the new properties boast the same high standard of accommodation that Best Western is renowned for and feature a range of amenities and facilities, including licensed restaurants and wireless internet at some locations. For more information, visit www.bestwestern.com.au or www.bestwestern.co.nz.

If you were to host your own tea party, we want to know what you would present to your guests. The writer of the letter judged the best will win a pine hamper box from Mudgee Hampers consisting of various goodies from the region and valued at over $200. Send your letters to En Route, 51 Whistler Street, Manly 2095, or send us an email: [email protected].

Traveller’s talesWant to share your travel videos with the world? Keen to seek inspiration for your next trip away? Then log on to www.iloho.com/travel_videos, a new travel video-sharing function that allows you to enjoy a range of travel destinations on the small screen – without leaving home! You can research destinations, rate videos, leave comments and share your favourite videos with friends.

3-10_ER9_Checkin.indd 4 22/4/09 9:33:34 AM


compiled bY KRiSTY bARRATT

How long have you worked for Best Western? I have worked on Best Western’s Gold Crown Club International Rewards program for the last six years.

You’re based at the Best Western Rewards Customer Service Centre in Balmain, NSW. What does your job involve? I am a jack-of-all-trades within Best Western. I deal with members’ reward queries about points, cards, redemptions and anything else related to rewards.

What makes Best Western different from other hotel chains in Australia? There are plenty of convenient locations to choose from.

When and where was your last holiday? Port Douglas in late November. It was extremely

humid. The pool didn’t cool us down too much but the cocktails certainly did!

What’s your favourite place in Balmain to escape the daily grind? We are a little distance from central Balmain, so the lunchroom tends to be my daily escape.

Where can you be found when you’re not working? Having a drink with friends, enjoying some karaoke and watching the Sydney Swans during the footy season.

Where is your favourite place to holiday?So far it has been Europe, especially Copenhagen in Denmark. It’s such a beautiful and quaint city that’s full of outgoing and friendly people. My partner and I were made to feel very welcome … like we had lived there all our lives.

Q&A

Terry Riddell is the customer service administration assistant for Best Western. En Route chats to him about his position within Best Western, holidaying in Port Douglas and his interest in karaoke.

Q&AQuiz1. In what year did pop star Madonna release her self-titled debut album?

2. What is the name of the famous 16th century Italian painter who specialised in baroque portraits?

3. What is the capital city of Pakistan?

4. Who was the former frontman of the band Midnight Oil?

5. What is the main ingredient of turmeric?

6. Diplodactylus is the name of what species of animal?

7. Which author wrote The Kite Runner?

8. Brett Kirk is the skipper for which sports team?

9. What does the term ‘sommelier’ refer to?

10. Where was Audrey Hepburn born?

1. 1983 2. Caravaggio 3. Islamabad 4. Peter Garrett 5 Curcumin 6. The gecko 7. Khaled Hosseini 8. Sydney Swans 9. Wine professional 10. Brussels, Belgium

A greener globeGreen Globe is the worldwide certification and performance improvement system assisting the travel and tourism industry to attain environmental sustainability. The program, serviced by EC3 Global, is supported by the science and technology of the Sustainable Tourism Cooperative Research Centre (STCRC) – the world’s largest dedicated, not-for-profit, research centre specialising in sustainable tourism.

Green Globe provides a system that responds to the major environmental problems facing our planet. The company aims to assist tourism operators, such as Best Western, in addressing these issues and help them achieve certification status. To attain Certified Silver or Certified Gold status, tourism operators must work towards achieving Best Practice in the 10 Green Globe key performance areas, including greenhouse gas emissions, energy and water consumption, waste management and recycling practices. For more information on Green Globe, visit www.ec3global.com.

DID you KNoW?A recent survey conducted by Visa and the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) determined that Australia was the most popular holiday destination to travel to in 2009 and beyond.

GuESS WHaT?Best Western International Asia recently launched its in-house spa brand, ‘Bhuvana, my spa’. The spas are available exclusively in Best Western hotels and will start to be featured across properties in Asia throughout 2009.

Port Douglas


American Express Queenstown WinterfestivalJune 26 – July 5With more than 60 fantastic events on offer, the American Express Queenstown Winterfestival features an eclectic line-up of entertainment, including street parades and live concerts, plus loads of action up on the slopes with ski races and nightly skiing events.

www.winterfestival.co.nz

top pick


CHECK-IN WHat’s oN?

some 60,000 competitors taking part every year. Starting at Hyde Park, the 14-kilometre run winds through the city’s Eastern Suburbs towards the finishing line at Bondi Beach. Spectators can expect plenty of fancy dress costumes, laughs and smiles along the way. city2surf.sunherald.com.au

vic

chocolate Rush August 8–9Indulge, learn and be entertained with the cocoa bean-soaked atmosphere of Chocolate Rush. The festival will be held at Melbourne’s Abbotsford Convent and includes workshops, demonstrations, masterclasses with professional chefs, chocolate tasting and much more. An extraordinary opportunity for everyone to taste, experiment and appreciate chocolate in all its delicious forms. www.chocolaterush.com.au

WA

Australasian SafariAugust 1–8Frequently referred to as ‘Australia’s version of Paris to Dakar’, the Australasian Safari is considered to be one of the toughest motoring events in the world. Covering 3,300 kilometres in seven days, competitors face a great variety of geographical challenges as they race through Western Australia’s rugged, yet impressive, outback.www.australasiansafari.com

including local stalls, belly dancers, carnival rides, food stalls, bars and much more. www.camelcup.com.au

tAS

the tasmanian Red Wine WeekendJune 13–14Held at Hobart’s Salamanca Place, this event features a selection of more than 60 red wine varietals, popular cool climates and barrel samples from Southern Tasmania’s premium wine producers. It’s a must-visit event for all lovers of fine wine and locally produced cheese. www.winetasmania.com.au

NSW

Sun Herald city2SurfAugust 9Sydney’s City2Surf is one of the best-attended fun runs in the world, with

Act

the Australian Science FestivalMay 27–31The Australian Science Festival is the world’s second-largest science festival and attracts an audience of more than 100,000 local and interstate visitors each year. Featuring more than 100 different science events, this year’s show will celebrate the International Year of Astronomy with big bangs, shooting stars and soaring rockets.www.sciencefestival.com.au

SA

Adelaide cabaret FestivalJune 5–20Recognised internationally for its cabaret performers from New York, London, Paris and New Zealand, the Adelaide Cabaret Festival will also include some of South Australia’s superb local talent. Bernadette Peters – New York’s musical theatre legend – will open the spectacle this year. www.adelaidefestivalcentre.com.au

QLD

Gold coast Airport Marathon July 5It’s time to dust off those runners and start preparing for the Gold Coast’s largest annual community sporting event, the Gold Coast Airport Marathon. With a range of events on offer for all ages and fitness levels, including the 42.2km marathon, 10km run and junior dash races for the kids, there’s no excuse not to get involved. So grab your friends, family and fellow fun-runners and submit your entry.www.goldcoastmarathon.com.au

Nt

Alice Springs camel cupJuly 11Every year travellers from around the world head to Blatherskite Park, Alice Springs to attend the region’s beloved Camel Cup. The family friendly event boasts some old-fashioned fun with a variety of camel races on show all day long. There’s also great entertainment on offer

CoMPILED BY ALINE GuYARD




CHECK-IN ENtErtaINmENt

Various ArtistsWar Child: HeroesEMIBob Dylan, The Clash and David Bowie have had their classic songs refurbished with aplomb. Standouts include Hot Chip’s cold but catchy disco vibe on Joy Division’s Transmission and Elbow’s haunting version of U2’s Running to Stand Still. SHaUn GrEEnwooD

UB40Love SongsVirginIf you’re in the mood for a bit of romantic soft pop, this new album from eight-piece reggae ensemble UB40 is not to be missed. Featuring 20 tracks, Love Songs is a compilation of UB40’s hit tunes and timeless favourites, including I Got You Babe and I’ll Be Your Baby Tonight.

Lily AllenIt’s Not Me, It’s YouEMIBritain’s favourite pop songstress is back with her second album release, It’s Not Me, It’s You. Still as quirky and cheeky as her debut album, Lily’s newest lyrical venture features 12 fun, honest tracks that are sure to get you grooving no matter where you are.

dvd top pick

the curious case of Benjamin Button Village roadshowThe Curious Case of Benjamin Button, adapted from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s short story, tells the tale of a child who is born at the age of 80 under unique circumstances and lives his life in reverse. Featuring Brad Pitt and Cate Blanchett, this beautifully original fable will be remembered for years to come.

Dog oN ItBy Spencer QuinnArena (Allen & Unwin)RRP $23.95Like private detectives of old, Bernie is broke, broken-hearted and stubborn. a femme fatale introduces herself and he’s unable to resist investigating her case, even if he has to do it pro bono, and without her permission. This is a fun detective story that will especially appeal to dog-lovers.

tHE WoMEN IN BLACkBy Madeleine St Johntext PublishingRRP $29.95This little gem of a book will one day be recognised as an australian classic. witty and warm, with clever characters, The Women in Black is set in a Sydney department store in the early 1960s. It is a charming, subtle satire that will sweep you away.

PLANEt CAkEBy Paris CutlerMurdoch Books RRP $45what makes us feel more nostalgic than cupcakes? Planet Cake, by the Sydney owner of the shop of the same name, contains step-by-step instructions for creating edible works of art. There are 30 different cupcake designs featured in the book, each of them exceptionally tempting and portrayed by beautiful photography.

turn back timeFrom classic love songs by reggae gurus UB40 to a poignant movie starring the ever-gorgeous Brad Pitt, there’s nothing like engaging in some quality entertainment to evoke memories of times gone by.

Brought to you by Good Reading, www.goodreadingmagazine.com.au.

What was the inspiration behind What Alice Forgot?I read a newspaper article about a woman in the UK who lost 20 years of her memory and didn’t recognise her husband and children. She behaved like a teenager and refused to cook the kids their dinner. I became fascinated with the idea of how your memories impact on your identity. How important is memory? Memory is like time travel. It’s amazing the way a scent or a taste can catapult you back through the years to another time and place.Liane Moriarty is the author of What Alice Forgot (Pan Macmillan Australia).

Two minutes with Liane Moriarty

CoMPILED By KrISTy BarraTT



Nine West Tweed Fedora, RRP $89Follow in the footsteps of style gurus like Justin Timberlake and get your hands on a fedora hat. It’s the epitome of urban cool. www.ninewest.com.au

<< Missie Von Lubbe Walk in the Woods candle, 270ml RRP $59.95 Rekindle your sense of nostalgia with this beautiful candle that blends sandalwood fragrances with the scents of the forest and comes in an ivory silk box.www.mvl.com.au

<< Poppies for Grace Sticky Notes, RRP $18.95Record your dreams, thoughts or email addresses on these compact sticky notes that come in a handy little box. 02 9976 6688

<< Tivoli Audio PAL Fashion Collection radio, RRP $399 Funky and practical, this limited-edition retro radio is compatible with iPod and other MP3 players, is weather-resistant and also comes in lime green and bright orange. www.tivoliaudio.com.au

<< Nine West Minnie shoe, RRP $139Relive the glamour of the 50s in these gorgeous metallic silver heels.www.ninewest.com.au

>> Mozi Organic Chamomile &

Cinnamon Tea, RRP $16.95

This beautifully packaged organic tea

will help you relax and unwind any time of day.

02 9976 6688

Retro revisitedRetro-inspired products are as good today

as they’ve always been – if not better.

<< Pulp Creative Paper Dots and Stripes address book, RRP $43.45Pulp Creative Paper stocks a selection of stunning stationery, paper and knick-knacks, including this cute and colourful address book that’s filled with inspiring quotes and lovely designs. 02 9976 6688

>> Fiat 500, RRP from $22,990

The ultra-retro Fiat 500 is as chic now as it was in 1957 when it was first launched. The cute, compact car comes in three tidy models and 11 vibrant colours. www.fiatcars.com.au

Then and now

LOOkiNG bACk CHECk-iN


spotlight WORDS: Stephen haineS


REst YoUR hEAD At>>

Hamilton: Best Western Hygate Motor Lodge 299 Ulster Street, Hamilton 3200 +64 07 839 3277 Centrally located in the heart of Hamilton, all rooms feature free broadband internet access and complimentary parking.

Hamilton: City Chic

DiD you know? Hamilton has a very youthful population – approximately half of the residents are under 30 years old.

new Zealand’s fourth-largest city is not just a gateway to many of the north island’s scenic spots, it also has plenty of quirky treasures and natural gems to offer the discerning cultural tourist.

A river runs through itAt 425 kilometres in length, the mighty waikato River is the longest in new Zealand. The river passes through Hamilton, and day and evening cruises on the replica paddle-steamer MV Waipa Delta depart from the jetty near Memorial Park. you’ll learn about the ecology of the river and be shown some of the city’s better-known landmarks. www.waipadelta.co.nz

Heaven in Hamilton the world-famous hamilton Gardens cover an area of 58 hectares at the southern end of hamilton city. Like something out of Dante’s Paradiso, the grounds are organised to tell ‘the story of gardens’ through five garden collections: the paradise Garden, the productive Garden, the Fantasy Garden, the Cultivar Garden and the Landscape Garden. the paradise Garden features an english flower garden, an italian renaissance garden and a Chinese scholars garden, among others. admission to the gardens is free and guided tours ($5) can be arranged through the hamilton Gardens information Centre. www.hamiltongardens.co.nz

Sweet tootH temptationSCandy Land is new Zealand’s largest candy store. Walk through the giant lips of the fantasy candy castle shop into a wonderland of chocolate, candy, gifts and soft toys. the shop is open every

day from 10am to 5pm. there’s a working model of an old-fashioned candy factory and you can even try making your own lollipop during one of the candy-making shows at 10.30am and 1pm on weekends, public holidays and school holidays. admission for the candy-making shows is $8 for adults, and $5 for children under 12 years. www.candyland.co.nz

art attaCkOverlooking the Waikato River, the Waikato Museum has eight galleries that feature touring exhibitions as well as displays from its own collection, including the gorgeously carved, 200-year-old war canoe Te Winika.www.waikatomuseum.co.nz

Day-tripperhamilton is the self-described ‘holiday hub’ of new Zealand’s central north island. it’s located close to the stunning Coromandel peninsula; tauranga with its beaches and spectacular vista from Mt Maunganui; the thermal

wonderland and Maori cultural capital of new Zealand, Rotorua; Lake taupo (pictured above), new Zealand’s largest lake; and the famous Waitomo glow-worm caves. it’s also only a 45-minutes drive to Matamata (hobbiton), where scenes from peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy were filmed. www.hobbitontours.com

phO

tOG

Raph

y: t

OU

RiSM

neW

Zea

Lan

D

10_ER9_Spotlight.indd 10 21/4/09 3:52:30 PM



culture vulture

Kia-ora culture

Striking tattoos, centuries-old mythology, passionate dance and earth-cooked feasts are all but a part of the intriguing culture that belongs to the Maori tribe of New Zealand. We take a look deeper into their history and tradition.

12-13_ER9_Culture Vulture.indd 12 21/4/09 3:54:28 PM

The Maori MyTh of creaTionThe Maori have a very rich and comprehensive mythology that accounts for the existence of the physical landscape and provides the basis for Maori culture, spirituality and tradition. Like all cultures, the Maori have their own creation myth to explain the origins of the universe. As the story goes, at the beginning of time the earth mother Papatūānuku (Papa) and the sky father Ranginui (Rangi) were together locked in a primordial embrace, and the world was filled with darkness.

Then, in a turn of events that reminds us as much of Freud’s theories of the Oedipus Complex as it does the myths of the Babylonian creation epic, the divine couple’s children, who lived in the shadow of their parents’ embrace, rebelled against them, tearing the earth and the sky asunder. The separation was violent and the earth mother and sky father bled, giving rise to ochre, the red clay colour that the Maori hold sacred.

The warfare that ensued between Papa and Rangi’s children – such as Tangaroa, God of the sea, and Tawhirimatea, God of storms – helps to describe some of the forces that still shape the New Zealand landscape today.


Words: sTEPHEN HAINEs

Kia-ora

New Zealand was one of the last places on Earth to be discovered and inhabited. It is now thought that the Maori tribe only arrived in

New Zealand about 1,000 years ago. The Maori came to Aotearoa (‘land of the long white cloud’) across the Pacific Ocean from Polynesia in sea-going canoes called waka, guided by the stars and the migration of whales and birds.

Today, the Maori comprise about 10 per cent of New Zealand’s population, and Auckland boasts the largest Polynesian population of any city in the world. New Zealanders of Maori descent number about 600,000 and the country continues to draw lessons and inspiration from the Maori people’s cultural strength.

Maori culture has always proved a drawcard for tourists, but increasingly the customs and the traditions of the Maori are being appreciated in their own right.

Like many indigenous cultures, the Maori have a strong oral tradition of legend and waiata (song). The most famous example of this is of course the haka – a traditional dance that has now been appropriated as the battle cry for New Zealand’s rugby team, the All Blacks. The haka is the generic term for Maori dance, and in pre-European times there were a number of different hakas performed depending on the occasion.

When asked upon his deathbed what he thought was the essence of the haka, Henare Teowai of the Ngati Porou tribe replied: ‘Kia korero te katoa o te tinana’ – ‘The whole body should speak’. The haka is recognised for its aesthetic appeal and is performed using different elements of the body, including the hands, feet, voice, tongue and eyes. All body parts play a role in fully conveying a message – be it of welcome, defiance or exultation.

Visitors to places such as Rotorua’s Tamaki Maori Village on New Zealand’s North Island have the privilege of being welcomed with the powhiri, the traditional Maori greeting ceremony. After the karanga, the call of welcome, visitors enter the wharenui (meeting house) – an elaborately carved building that represents the ancestors of the past. Guests are then treated to the traditional hangi, a meal cooked in the earth under hot rocks for three to four hours. The kai (food) is cooked through a combination

of smoking and steaming, and the result is a dish that is deliciously succulent and that offers a real taste of Maori culture.

The Maori are also famous for their striking and elaborate tattoos. The word ‘tattoo’ is derived from the Tahitian tatau and entered the English language when Captain James Cook witnessed tatooing in Tahiti in 1769 and recorded the word ‘tattow’ in his journal. Tattoos were an indicator of social status and were also practiced as a rite of passage, to mark the various stages in a person’s life, including puberty.

For the Maori, the head is considered to be the most sacred part of the body: moko (full-face tattoos) were reserved for men, whereas women were usually tattooed around the lips. The nostrils were also sometimes incised with delicate designs. Traditionally tattooing was performed with bone chisels, but today more and more Maori are opting to have their faces tattooed using modern technology.

With so much already to recommend itself to domestic and international tourists, New Zealand is fast proving that it is also a world-class destination for culture.

REST YOUR HEAD AT>>

Best Western has properties in Auckland, Christchurch, Dunedin, Hamilton, Queenstown, Rotorua, Wanaka and Wellington. For more information visit www.bestwestern.co.nz.

LEARn THE LingOTe reo Maori, a language related to Tahitian and Hawaiian, is one of the official languages of New Zealand. Even New Zealanders of non-Maori descent generally know a few words. Kia-ora – Hi! Hello! Ka kite ano – GoodbyeKei te pēhea koe? – How are you?Kei te pai ahau – I’m goodMe koe? – And you?

The Maori of creaThe Maori have a very rich and comprehensive mythology that accounts for the existence of the physical landscape and provides the basis for

The Maori have a very rich and comprehensive mythology that accounts

yTion

The Maori have a very rich and comprehensive mythology that accounts for the existence of the physical landscape and provides the basis for Maori culture, spirituality and tradition. Like all cultures, the Maori have their

12-13_ER9_Culture Vulture.indd 13 21/4/09 3:58:53 PM

city style


Touching down in Adelaide for the first time on a recent trip to the South Australian capital, I was surprised that nobody made the time-worn joke of

having to put their watches back 20 years. Clearly, times have changed. Adelaide is now emerging as a city that’s proud of its heritage. So, whether you’re a history buff or just a casual flâneur, there’s plenty of history to be seen in Adelaide, from the grand swag of buildings that line North Terrace, to the historic resort suburb of Glenelg on the glowing Gulf St Vincent. Here are just some of En Route’s favourite historic hotspots.

North terraceOne of the four terraces that bound the central business district of the city, North Terrace is Adelaide’s heritage precinct. The wide boulevard is exactly 1.6 kilometres long and is testament to the way the city was laid out by the surveyor general of the colony, Colonel William Light, in 1838. Along the Terrace there is a mix of museums, memorials and statues, plus other buildings of cultural note and architectural interest, making it the ideal place to start your foray into Adelaide’s historic past.

ParliameNt houseThe imposing dark marble facade of the Corinthian-columned Parliament House is a dominant feature of North Terrace. The South Australian Parliament was built in two stages, the western flank being completed in 1889 and the eastern half in 1939. The original design involved plans for a grand and lofty dome, but it was never built. There are free, guided tours of the chambers at 10am and 2pm on weekdays, and for 60 days of the year when the parliament is in session, the public can sit in on the political slanging matches. www.parliament.sa.gov.au

grown up

Adelaide is shaking off its reputation as a prim and backward

place. In fact, this gracious city shows that having a past is not

such a bad thing after all.

PHO

TOG

rAPH

y: T

OU

rISM

SO

UTH

AU

STrA

LIA

14_ER9_city style.indd 14 21/4/09 4:05:15 PM


WORDS: HugH RamSay

Fabulous FountainsSometimes it’s not the monumental buildings and edifices but rather the smaller, more intimate things that can capture our imagination, like adelaide’s array of beautifully designed fountains. The Creswell gardens Fountain is one of two fountains that were originally erected in front of the Jubilee Exhibition Building. In 1908, the fountains were handed over to the City Council and one was erected in Creswell gardens, between King William Road and the adelaide Oval. The other can now be found in Rundle mall where it sits in front of the elaborate adelaide arcade. Built in 1855, the adelaide arcade is also worth a visit and houses a quirky museum, gift shops, boutiques and various cafes. For the locations of numerous other fountains across adelaide go to www.cityofadelaide.com.au

Holy trinity CHurCHHoly Trinity Church is the oldest surviving church in adelaide. The first chaplain of the colony, Reverend Charles Beaumont Howard, arrived in adelaide on the HMS Buffalo, bringing with him an entire prefabricated church building funded by the South australian Church Society. By the time Howard arrived in adelaide, the materials had rotted and the church was declared useless. The foundation stone of the current church was laid in 1838. The church was rebuilt in 1845, and in 1889 it was extended and given its current Victorian gothic appearance. The church can be viewed during office hours, from 9am to 5pm monday to Friday. 87 North Terracewww.trinityadelaide.org.au

Glenelg: Best Western Ensenada Motor Inn ★★★★ 13 Colley Terrace, Glenelg, SA 5045 Centrally located in historic Glenelg opposite the beach, the Ensenada offers one- and two-bedroom suites, plus a range of deluxe and executive suites all featuring air conditioning.

rEst your HEaD at>>

aDElaiDE town Hall When it was opened on June 20, 1866 the adelaide Town Hall was touted as ‘the largest municipal building south of the equator’. The building features an Italianate tower, called the albert Tower, which stands 44 metres high and is capped by a lantern dome. The tower didn’t have a clock until 1935 when, as the story goes, former Lord mayor Sir J Lavington Bonython donated one because he didn’t have a wristwatch. It was certainly costly, but at least to this venerable old personage, a rather convenient way of telling the time. Tours are conducted on mondays at 10am, by appointment only. 128 King William Streetwww.adelaidetownhall.com.au

sEasiDE livingLocated on the white shining shores of Holdfast Bay, glenelg is adelaide’s original resort town. The suburb is famous for the pier that juts out into the azure waters of the bay. The current pier dates from 1969 and was built after the existing one (which opened in 1859) was destroyed in heavy seas in 1948. you can take an original 1929 vintage tram from Victoria Square in the centre of adelaide to the terminus at moseley Square in glenelg. Here, you can visit the Bay Discovery Centre, located in the imposing Victorian period glenelg Town Hall, which features exhibits on the heritage of the bay and the history of glenelg. Glenelg Town Hall, Moseley Square08 8179 9500

aDElaiDE unDErwatEr HEritagE trailThis trail is the key to interpreting the history and trade of South australia during the 19th and 20th centuries. The wrecks of four ships located at the bottom of gulf St Vincent – Grecian, Zanoni, Star of Greece and Norma – demonstrate the four major types of materials used in sailing vessel construction during the British shipbuilding era of 1841–1893: wood, composite, iron and steel. On the coast adjacent to each shipwreck, you’ll also find a plaque marking the site of each of the four wrecks. South Australian Heritage Branch1 Richmond Road, Keswick08 8124 4960

aDElaiDE gaol HistoriC sitE anD MusEuMadelaide gaol was a state-of-the-art prison when it opened in 1841. Expenditure on the prison was so lavish that you’d think they were building a palace, and it forced South australia into a state-wide depression. The prison functioned until 1988 and these days it operates as a museum. you can visit the blocks, cells and yards on guided or self-guided tours (adults $8.50/children $5.50). 18 Gaol Road, Thebartonwww.adelaidegaol.org.au

14_ER9_city style.indd 15 23/4/09 3:32:02 PM

With his partner six months pregnant with their second child, Brendon Crown decided the time was right to pop the question:

“Honey, do you mind if I go on a cricket tour to the Caribbean for five weeks?” As Crown points out, his wife is very considerate, so he got the go-ahead.

“I had to try to convince her that was my first and last opportunity to enjoy myself overseas,” Crown says. “Unfortunately, I’ve used that line more than once.”

Welcome to the life and times of a sporting tragic. Whether it’s travelling up the road to see the local footy team or around the world to watch a national sporting icon, fanatics just have to be there. For some it’s a particular code or team, for others a certain player, and then there are those who just love the buzz of a big event.

Crown, who has seen at least two-dozen of Australia’s test matches around the globe, and also managed to sneak away to the 2006 soccer World Cup in Germany, says following sport overseas is so good, it’s almost surreal.

“When you go on these trips it’s great. It really takes you away from your mundane life. Being at St Johns in Barbados, at the ground, you can hardly believe you’re really there.”

For Warren Livingstone, a passion for sport has morphed into a full-time occupation. Founder of The Fanatics, a tour booking service for

people wanting to follow major sporting and social events, Livingstone started out as a humble backpacker who liked to watch Aussie athletes, have a few beers and chase the fairer sex. He now moves about 20,000 people to major fixtures around the globe annually.

It all kicked off in 1997 when Australian tennis great Pat Rafter took out the US Open.

“When he won we were up in the stands and he called us down to a party that he had,” Livingstone recalls.

“He put about $30,000 on the bar. We drank with (Davis Cup captain John) Newcombe and (coach Tony) Roche and they asked us down to the Davis Cup in Washington a week or two later.

“We went down there and just made a lot of noise and the players loved it. When I came back to Sydney I met Newcombe again and he said when Australia played we should make this a regular thing and that’s kind of how it started.”

It proved a bit of a slow burn for the next five years with Livingstone organising groups of luridly clad Aussies to go and support their

Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Aussies love to show support for their favourite sporting heroes, but for some

it becomes an obsession.

“It’s an incredible feeling to turn up and see these smiling faces that you know. The best thing is, that at

the end of the day the majority of them are still smiling, whether

you win, lose or draw.”


sport

16_ER9_Sport.indd 16 21/4/09 4:12:27 PM

WORDS: Glenn Cullen

countrymen at various sports around the world. Then it hit the big time.

“In 2002 we pulled our finger out and decided we needed to take it seriously because it was getting so big,” he says.

A huge fan of nRl team St.George Illawarra, livingstone now finds he’s so busy, the Dragons are the only way he can get a sporting release.

“In the old days you used to be really excited at the beginning of the event but when you run tours you look forward to the end of the event because that means there are no more problems that can happen,” he says.

“That’s the only time you get to relax. It’s a bit sad in a way because you don’t get to enjoy the sport as much as you used to, but so be it, I guess.”

Ian Spruce generally spends his time close to home but if his beloved South Sydney Rabbitohs played in Mongolia you wouldn’t bet against him being in ulaanbaatar to cheer them on. A supporter of the famed rugby league club since 1967, Spruce is also president of ‘The Burrow’, Souths’ fan group. Since the myrtle and

Far left: Warren livingstone (left in visor) in Guyana at the 1999 West Indies cricket tour Clockwise from top: livingstone at the Davis Cup in 2003; Brendon Crown (in green hat) with his mates at a cricket match; Ian Spruce at a Rabbitohs game in Brisbane

DiD you know? Sports fanaticism can be traced back almost 3,000 years when the Ancient Olympic Games were admired for their displays of athletic prowess and a focus on beauty. Later, fans turned their attention to the blood sports of the Roman Empire that could draw more than 40,000 paying spectators to watch gladiatorial events in the Colosseum. Sports fanaticism is not thought to be culturally specific; spectator events were also hugely popular in ancient China and Japan.

green were re-introduced to the national Rugby league in 2002, Spruce has seen 150 games. not bad for a bloke who works a 60-hour week.

“There was one season where I didn’t miss a game and that meant Mackay, Townsville, Auckland, Perth – everywhere,” Spruce says proudly. “With Souths, it’s just in your blood.”

Funnily enough, one of Spruce’s highlights in recent years was a 66-0 loss at the hands of the new Zealand Warriors. His side may have been embarrassed on the scoreboard, but somehow he managed to help convert a family of stray St.George supporters attending the match to become Rabbitohs fans. He aims to get to all Souths games in 2009.

“It’s an incredible feeling to turn up and see these smiling faces that you know. The best thing is, that at the end of the day the majority of them are still smiling, whether you win, lose or draw,” he says.

Ozzie

Far left: Warren livingstone (left in visor)


16_ER9_Sport.indd 17 21/4/09 4:13:24 PM


great drivesPh

oto

gra

Phy:

to

UrI

SM t

aSM

an

Ia a

nd

JU

PIte

r

A toAst to tAsmAniA

stA

rt

st

DAY 1: Devonport to Launceston anD prospect vaLe driving time: 1 hour, devonport to Launceston; 10–15 minutes to prospect vaLedistance: devonport to Launceston, 95km; Launceston to prospect vaLe, 6.1km

it’s an easy drive from Devonport, where the vehicular ferry docks, to Launceston. A steep descent into the tamar Valley reveals a historic, well-groomed city enveloped in scenic attractions and fertile farmland.

Launceston eateries are a fitting introduction to the foodie-friendly Apple isle. A growing crop of restaurants showcases fine regional produce – fresh game and seafood, Flinders island lamb, Cape Grim

beef, artisan cheeses, seasonal fruit – matched with cool-climate wines.

At fine-dining institution Fee and me, a wall full of dining and wine-list awards spans two decades. Highland venison and black truffles often feature on chef-owner Fiona’s classic menu, as do local abalone, crayfish and ocean trout. the soufflé-topped hare pie is a worthy signature dish.

in nearby Prospect Vale, terrace restaurant serves what is widely regarded as tasmania’s finest food and wine. seasonal menus feature truffles from neighbouring truffieres; local saffron; mutton birds harvested from the Furneaux islands and served à l’orange; Bass strait king crab; crayfish cooked to order from live holding tanks and fresh berries and tasmanian cheeses.

hobart

Strahan

devonport

launceSton

St helenS

bicheno

DriVe

18-20_ER9_Great Drives.indd 18 21/4/09 4:16:04 PM


Tasmania is the perfect isle for touring foodies: scenic drives carve up a verdant countryside littered with fine farm gates, winery trails and eateries. Here we suggest three weekend drives to ensure you have all your bases covered in the Apple Isle.

Day 2: Around the tAmAr VAlley Driving time: 2.5hrsDistance: 150km (Launceston to Beauty Point, 46.3km; Beauty Point to PiPers riDge, 54.8km; PiPers riDge to Launceston, 49.6km)

approximately two dozen cool-climate wineries and a bunch of winery restaurants, farm gates and wildlife attractions lie along the Tamar Valley Touring Route north of Launceston. you’ll pass a string of pretty towns en route to Exeter, a historic tavern and a gaggle of cellar doors at Rosevears, and more wineries at Deviot and Rowella.

Enjoy a leisurely lunch at Strathlynn, where terrific wines from Ninth Island’s vineyard are matched with exceptional regional fare from chef Daniel alps. also worth a detour is Stoney Rise Vineyard, near Gravelly Beach. Head north to Beauty Point and its wharf, which houses Seahorse World and Platypus House; then catch the Shuttlefish Ferry to George Town, a historic township with cut-above eateries.

Retrace your route south to Spring Hill Road, cutting across the river, then head north-east to Piper’s Brook, site of one of the region’s best wineries, before returning to Launceston via the East Tamar Highway, stopping at wineries and farm gates along the way.

Day 1:

lAunceston to Bicheno, ViA st helensDriving time: 3hrsDistance: 226km (Launceston to st heLens, 150km; st heLens to Bicheno, 76km)

From Launceston, it’s a pleasant drive through farmland and historic tin-mining towns to game-fishing capital St Helens, where you can refuel on just-caught fish (’n’chips) at legendary Captain’s Catch.

From here, the east-coast touring route stretches 180 kilometres south to Orford, skirting some of the world’s most beautiful beaches and national parks. En route, eat crayfish sandwiches in quaint fishing villages; pick up fresh produce at farm gates and visit charming cellar doors. At Apsley Gorge Vineyard, near former whaling town Bicheno, a unique microclimate helps produce award-winning chardonnay and pinot. Taste these – and other local drops – at Bicheno Winery cellar door at The Gulch, where Freycinet Marine Farm oysters and freshly cooked crayfish are accompanied by ocean views.

Pick up picnic produce from the local smokehouse and smallgoods butcher and stroll off some kilojoules in Douglas Apsley National Park, with its spectacular gorges and waterfalls. If time allows, see East Coast Nature Reserve and Bicheno’s nightly penguin parade too.

WORDS: MERRAN WHITE

DRIVE



great drives

Day 2Bicheno to hoBart, via swansea driving time: 2.5hrsdistance: 177km

From Bicheno, detour to the Frecinyet Peninsula, renowned for bushwalks and glorious scenery: pink-granite outcrops, azure bays and pristine sand strips – including immaculate Wineglass Bay.

Also renowned is Kate’s Berry Farm near Swansea, which churns out berry-infused ice-cream, jams and strawberry wine.

Between Bicheno and Swansea lie wineries including Freycinet, Spring Vale and

Day 1:Hobart and around tHe Huon Valleydriving time: 2.5–3hrsdistance: hoBart to cygnet, 50km; cygnet to woodBridge, 17km; woodBridge to margate, 17.4km; margate to hoBart, 36km

South-west of Hobart stretches the Huon Valley, carved up by winding rivers, bordered by World Heritage listed National Parks and bristling with produce outlets and eateries. Standouts include the restaurant at Home Hill Winery at Ranelagh, and Peppermint Bay’s The Dining Room in Woodbridge.

Wineries also abound: taste Home Hill’s acclaimed vintages; Hartzview’s classic cool-climate varieties and fruity fortifieds and Panorama Vineyard’s pear liqueur and elegant pinot noir. Sleep it all off back in Hobart.

Travel brief

getting there>>

Virgin Blue, Jetstar and Qantas all fly daily to Launceston (45 minutes from Melbourne; 95 minutes from Sydney) and Hobart (around an hour from Melbourne; two hours from Sydney). Hiring a vehicle on arrival is a cinch: Launceston and Hobart airports both have car-hire offices.

when to go>>

Tasmania is best visited from October to April, when temperatures are warmer. For foodies, every season brings fresh pleasures to enjoy.

rest your head at>>

Best Western has properties in Bicheno, Burnie, Eaglehawk Neck, Hobart, Launceston and Ulverstone.

dId you KnoW?Tasmanian salmon is the only farmed salmon in the world that requires no chemical treatment to remove impurities.

Coombend, with cellar doors offering crisp pinot noir and riesling.

A brace of Swansea fine-dineries showcase the local harvest. At award-winning Ebb Restaurant and Bar, owner/chef Darren Johnson serves up slow-poached, Japanese-style abalone and rock lobster ravioli; while at The Banc Restaurant, chef John Bailey, formerly of London’s Dorchester, works wonders with Great Oyster Bay seafood.

Full? Meander south to Orford, where the Tasman Highway veers inland to Hobart. Make a final pit stop at Barilla Bay Oysters, near Cambridge, where a lot of TLC produces some of the world’s best oysters.

Day 2: Hobart to launceston, VIa straHan driving time: 8hrsdistance: 558km (hoBart to strahan, 289km; strahan to Launceston, 269km)

From Hobart, head west to the Lyell Highway: work up an appetite traversing the mountainous section of magnificent Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park. at Strahan, on the west coast, tuck into delectable seafood at Franklin Manor. Next morning, join the Piners and Miners day tour of rugged terrain nearby, fuelled by boxed gourmet breakfasts. If two days is your limit, stop for a seafood lunch at Strahan, then head north to Launceston, skirting World Heritage listed Cradle Mountain National Park – a memorable final leg.

DRIVe




cover story

22_ER9_Isla Fisher.indd 22 21/4/09 4:55:10 PM


INTERVIEW: RachEl claRk [IFa]

PhO

TOG

RaPh

Y: h

Ead

PREs

s a

Nd

IsTO

ck

From her role as eccentric and sexually aggressive Gloria in Wedding Crashers to her recent stint as brand-obsessed Rebecca in Confessions of a Shopaholic, Australia’s girl next door Isla Fisher is taking Hollywood by storm.

GoldenA brief historyBy age 13, Isla Fisher had already begun acting professionally. She joined the cast of popular Australian soap opera Home and Away when she was 18, portraying the character of Shannon Reed. It was during Isla’s three-year stint on the show that she established a name for herself both nationally and in the United Kingdom. From here, the flame-haired beauty ventured to Paris to study mime at the prestigious International Theatre School Jacques Lecoq, following in the footsteps of acting greats such as Geoffrey Rush and Emma Thompson. Isla’s first big break came in 2002 when she scored the role as Mary Jane in Scooby-Doo. But it wasn’t until her performance in box office hit Wedding Crashers that Isla’s acting talent was really recognised on an international level and earned her the Breakthrough Performance Award at the MTV Movie Awards.

Goldengirl



cover story

With her fiery red hair, charismatic smile, petite figure and down-to-earth attitude, Isla Fisher is every bit the golden girl next door of

Australia’s big screen. After leaving the set of Australian soapie Home and Away, the skilled comedic actress shot to fame alongside Owen Wilson and Vince Vaughn in the romantic comedy Wedding Crashers. The 33-year-old is the fiancée of Britain’s beloved Sacha Baron Cohen (of Ali G and Borat fame), mother to beautiful baby Olive, and the leading lady of Hollywood chick flick Confessions of a Shopaholic. We chatted with Isla about fashion, motherhood, and how she feels about super-stardom.

Are you a shopaholic?No, I’m not a big shopper – in fact I shop very rarely. The one thing I really shop for is hair bands. Every time I look around the house there are hundreds of hair bands everywhere! Clothes aren’t really important to me as long as I’m comfortable. I’m definitely not someone who wears high heels just to look good.

How do you balance work and motherhood?My busy career is sort of an illusion. I haven’t worked since the filming of Confessions of a Shopaholic ended … I’ve just been at home. Motherhood has made me feel very

PHO

TOG

RAPH

: cO

uRT

esy

Of

TOu

cHsT

ON

e PI

cTu

Res

happy and blessed. When I saw the poster for Shopaholic I thought, “Wow, somebody gave me the lead of a movie, what were they thinking?” I’m in a very happy place in my life right now.

What did you like about the script?I was already a fan of the books, but what I liked about the script was the fact that the leading character was flawed, eccentric and deluded. Better yet, she was a comedic character. A lot of times you read scripts for women and the leading roles are not comedic. This felt like a great opportunity to be the crazy, funny one … like Bridget Jones.

Do you identify with Rebecca, your character in the film?Rebecca is someone who avoids confrontation. She wants everyone to be happy and the world to be a beautiful place. I think there are definitely similarities between us. I’m a people-pleaser and I often do try to avoid confrontation. But I’ve gotten better with age. I’m more comfortable now with having boundaries and saying ‘no’, whereas Rebecca is the kind of person who will buy make-up from a store, even if she doesn’t like it, to avoid hurting the shop assistant’s feelings.

In a recent poll of the world’s most desirable women by online men’s magazine AskMen.com, the former Home and Away star came 31st. Isla was the top Australian listed in the poll.

DiD you know?



Isla’s top hangouts…

Holiday experiences that top Isla’s hot list include her hometown of Perth, WA; the sun-drenched shores of Hawaii; Runaway Bay in Jamaica; the intriguing culture of Morocco; and the culinary delights of Florence, Italy.

Who do you admire?Gosh, there are so many people. I love Lucille Ball, Goldie Hawn, Carol Burnett, Amy Poehler and Tina Fey. I thought Anna Faris was wonderful in The House Bunny.

Your partner is British comedian sacha Baron Cohen. have you ever considered making a movie together? Sacha is the funniest man in the world. As far as comedy goes, I really love that naturalistic comedy. Monty Python and Peter Sellers are some of my favourites and I love The Pink Panther movies. Obviously for me it would be huge if Sacha and I made a movie together. I’m a really big fan and I’d love to work with him.

What’s important to you in life?Family is very important to me. Now that I’m a mother I’ve realised how fortunate I am to have a career and be in a place that I always secretly hoped for. It’s quite surreal sometimes, to see myself on a poster as the lead role in a movie. It’s great! My only disappointment is that I still haven’t grown any taller!

When did you start acting?I started acting when I was 12 years old. My mum used to work in amateur dramatics in Darlington, Western Australia [where I grew up] and I used to watch her go on stage every night. I remember feeling the energy that surrounded the performers as they put on their make-up and costumes – it seemed so exciting and magical. That was when I really began thinking about doing it. But I never actually thought it would become my profession.

What are your dreams for the future?I like to keep my life as an open book. Years ago, my mum and I wrote a fiction book for teenagers. I’d love to write again one day and maybe even direct something.

Do you have an extravagance or splurge?I love good food – especially Japanese – and I love to eat in nice restaurants. I think Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant in London is pretty spectacular.

Would you describe yourself as a fashion icon?Definitely not! It would be a huge compliment if someone were to say that about me, but most likely not true. In terms of style, I think Sophia Loren used to look pretty fabulous. Lauren Hutton also has great style and Cate Blanchett is always impeccably dressed.

Did Wedding Crashers change your life?Wedding Crashers opened up a lot of doors for me and gave me a lot of exposure. It was a turning point in my career and I was hugely grateful for the experience.

What does ‘home’ mean to you?We’re currently living between LA and London. I’ve always been a bit of a nomad. But now I definitely want to have my roots set more – it’s easier to get more sleep that way with a baby.

25

Perth’s city skyline

Markets of MoroccoJamaica’s unspoiled beaches


You don’t have to rely on Brisbane’s city bars for top-notch food and drink – many of the state’s country pubs have their fair share to offer, and often a little bit more.

countrytapping into

pubs

explore


Think back and remember the years when you trekked outback to find a small country pub – a disjointed, run-down old, squalid

shanty that offered little except a tepid beer and a dry, over-cooked cottage pie. Times have certainly changed. Take the Cooyar Hotel on the New England Highway north of Toowoomba on Queensland’s Darling Downs, proud of its fresh, clean dining room and bar.

Then there’s Gayndah’s double-storey Grand Hotel south-west of Bundaberg. Forget the archetypal dried-up pub grub; the Grand’s lunch menu offers mouth-watering delights such as slow-cooked lamb shanks. Marry that with a frosty beer and you’re on your way to discovering what country pubs now have to offer.

BirdsvilleIf you are looking for total isolation, travel 20 hours west of Brisbane or drop down south from Mount Isa for approximately nine hours, and stop just before the South Australian border at the Birdsville Hotel.

This small, wooden single-storey hotel carries across the arch of its roof the outback desert dust, and through its front door is a simple bar that plays host to the thousands of visitors that make the annual pilgrimage for the Birdsville horserace meet.

Whistling across the open plains and dry gibber is the philosophy the

locals hold dear: “Everyone out here is part of the show, everyone is treated the same, everyone is respected the same.” This is a pub, like many country pubs, where outback travellers discover the meaning of mateship.

Birdsville

central outBack qld

26_ER9_Explore V2.indd 26 21/4/09 4:59:15 PM

WORDS: DaviD GilchRiSt



EinaslEighThe Einasleigh Hotel is situated five hours drive north-west of Townsville in Queensland’s Gulf country, and can be subject to a good monsoonal drenching and become cut off from travellers. However, when it is accessible, it can be reached from Townsville or over the rainforest clad Atherton Tablelands from Cairns. This two-storey 1909 Queenslander is a remarkable hotel in a town of about 30 residents, just a few hundred metres from the beautiful Copperfield Gorge with its sheer walls dropping into the sandy river bottom – a great spot for fishing or swimming. You can also use the hotel as a base for bird-watching or exploring the nearby Undara Lava Tubes. Just remember to gather in the main bar afterwards, or you’ll miss all the gossip.

nindigullyNot far from the New South Wales border, just off the Barwon Highway, a village called Nindigully sits on the banks of Moonie River. The Nindigully Pub offers an amazing country pub experience, which is as much about the locals and their stories as it is cold beers and large steaks. You might hear about the large cod that was caught in the Moonie within sight of the pub’s front door, or find out about the New Year’s Eve fireworks, local pig races and the town’s ghosts. Sit out the front on the veranda for a while and there’s every chance you’ll see a stockman driving several head of cattle past the front door. Just a sample of what makes ‘The Gully’ such a wonderful experience.


ExplorE

nindigully

wEstErn downs

far north qld south-East qld

prairiEAs you make your way inside the Prairie Hotel, you will probably wander past pub pets Buffy the water buffalo and Harry the alpaca. A two-hour drive south-west of Townsville on the Overlander Way, Prairie is more than home to unusual pets and more than old-world charm. Much more than a typical pub, ‘museum’ is probably a more accurate way to describe this place – ringers’ hats, saddles, farming equipment and assorted rural memorabilia are as much at home here as the beer.

prairiE

north-wEst qld south-East qld

EinaslEigh

north-wEst qld

nobbyJust south of Toowoomba lies Nobby, and Sam and Robyn Little are the latest custodians of Rudd’s Pub. It’s crammed with memorabilia depicting the life and times of the village’s famous author Arthur Hoey Davis, better known as ‘Steele Rudd’. Stop here a while and have a friendly yarn with the locals in the room in which, some say, Davis penned his On Our Selection characters.

pittsworthNot far from Nobby, the Tattersalls Club Hotel in Pittsworth is rumoured to be the toast of the town. Welcoming leather chairs and a cosy fireplace add to the pub’s ambience. At meal times, the cook, Rachel – known as ‘Aunty’ – serves up steaks that give definition to the word ‘generous’.

athErton The history-laden Barron Valley Hotel in Atherton near Cairns features a majestic staircase and inviting horseshoe-shaped bar, and is a fascinating pub. Owner-manager Michael Nasser is happy to share the intriguing four-generation history his family has with the hotel, while you sample some of the fare.


>>

getting there

Qantas flies to most Queensland destinations. Queensland Rail offers Sunlander, Tilt Train, Spirit of the Outback and Westlander services covering western and tropical north Queensland.

>>

rest your head at

Best Western has properties in more than 35 locations in Queensland. Visit www.bestwestern.com.au for more details.

>>

when to go

Tropical north Queensland and western Queensland are best visited from early April to October. Brisbane and the Darling Downs are year-round destinations; however the Darling Downs are at their best in spring.

>>

what’s on

The annual Carnival of Flowers in Toowoomba is held each September, while every August Mt Isa hosts the largest and richest rodeo in the Southern Hemisphere – the Isa Rodeo.

Travel brief

Previous page: The Birdsville Hotel Clockwise from left: Rudd’s Pub; Nindigully Hotel; Tattersalls Club Hotel; North Gregory Hotel


tasmaniaSand Bay Hotel – an excellent country pub.

western australiaThe Divers Tavern in Cable Beach offers West Australian sophistication.

Pub Crawl around australia

new south walesThe Greengate Hotel in Killara on Sydney’s north shore has a reputation for being a great meeting place.

ViCtoriaThe Star Hotel in Walhalla, north-east of Melbourne – one of the state’s best. The very funky Gertrude’s Brown Couch in Fitzroy.

northern territoryMonsoon in Darwin has typical tropical flare.

south australiaThe Stirling Hotel – best for country charm, according to locals.

western qld western qld

KynunaWay out west, wedged between Longreach and Mount Isa, perched on an endless horizon waits the Blue Heeler Hotel. The old single-storey pub was a staging post for Cobb & Co, and is now a sentimental favourite of locals and travellers alike.

Resting on the Matilda Highway, with an aged wooden floor and solid earthy bar, you can be sure there’s a tale or two to tell from its past. Names scribed on its walls hint at some of its secrets and legends, including how Banjo Patterson stayed nearby during the great shearers’ strike of the late 1800s.

This is a pub where the locals welcome you with a smile and encourage travellers to strike up a hearty sing-a-long on the piano.

wintonStories of the North Gregory Hotel, Winton and Banjo Paterson are inseparable. This fantastic country pub in Western Queensland between Longreach and Mt Isa is said to be the place where Australia’s own pseudo-national anthem Waltzing Matilda was first played, and the swagman’s image has been sand-etched into the hotel’s glass doors by renowned sculptor Daphne Mayo.



weekender

Take a drive to central-west and north-west New South Wales and you’ll be rewarded with an array of local produce as well as a wealth of local history.

Bushtucker

Bushtucker

Pho

tog

raPh

y: t

oU

rISM

new

So

Uth

wa

leS

an

d IS

tock

30_ER7_Weekender.indd 30 21/4/09 5:21:20 PM


WORDS: ChRiStine SalinS

There’s a palpable sense of history in central-west and north-west New South Wales, with its streetscapes of quintessentially Aussie pubs and heritage-listed buildings.

Gold miners, graziers, bushrangers and writers sought fame and fortune in the bush, but these days it is food and wine that lures most people to the region.

A three-and-a-half-hour drive north-west of Sydney, Mudgee is the second-oldest town west of the Blue Mountains. It sprang to life during the Gold Rush, leaving a fantastic legacy of beautiful old buildings. Its wide streets laid out in a grid in 1823 by surveyor Robert Hoddle became the model for Melbourne’s town plan.

Like many country railway stations, the 1884 Mudgee station became redundant a few decades ago, but since February 2006 it has had a new lease of life as a restaurant and bar serving sophisticated regionally inspired food. Tables and chairs spill out on to the platform, which still has its original wrought iron embellishments.

Another lovingly restored building, a former Cobb & Co inn, houses the Wineglass Bar & Grill, where local wines feature heavily and the chef makes great use of the abundant regional produce, including honey, olives, hazelnuts and venison.

Look out for olive oil and fig products at the di Lusso cellar door, find yourself in heaven among the locally made products and gift hampers at Mudgee Gourmet, located in the old parcels office of the Mudgee Railway Station, and sample different

varieties of honey, mead and a unique new product, Bee-Power, at Mudgee’s Honey Haven.

Taste wine and marinated fetta cheese at High Valley Wine and Cheese or pop into some of the region’s many cellar doors. Sniff and sip at Pieter van Gent with its 150-year-old barrels, visit the impressive collection of old motorbikes at Robert Stein Wines, and be seduced by the Ice Wine at Elliot Rocke Estate, which hosts the hugely successful Mudfest film festival outdoors in March each year.

These days, vineyards cover the landscape where one of Australia’s best-loved writers, Henry Lawson, once roamed. He grew up in Eurunderee, just outside Mudgee, and the local tourist office can direct you to sites from his childhood.

The Henry Lawson Centre in nearby Gulgong houses the largest collection of Lawson’s works outside of Sydney’s Mitchell Library. Gulgong is like something out of a time warp, with 130 National Trust-listed buildings in one street alone.

Another lovely old town is Rylstone with its picturesque stone buildings, some of them converted into shops selling crafts, old wares and locally produced food and wine. In 1861 bushranger Captain Thunderbolt spent a night in the local lock-up on his way to trial in Bathurst.

Rylstone is a gateway to Wollemi National Park, home of the Wollemi Pine. You won’t be able to see this living relic from the age of the dinosaurs – its location is a closely guarded secret – but you can camp, fish, bushwalk or enjoy a river cruise.

Four hours’ drive west of Sydney, Orange, at the base of Mount Canobolas, is a picturesque, productive region where grapes, apples, stonefruit and other produce flourishes. Pick up the Orange Region Wines brochure from the Visitor Information Centre and check out some of the more than 40 cool-climate wineries, along with excellent cafes and restaurants such as Lolli Redini.



weekender

Follow the heritage trail around Orange’s fine old buildings, or if you’ve really over-indulged, go for a hike on one of the walking tracks on Mt Canobolas, where you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views.

Orange is surrounded by charming little towns, such as Blayney and Millthorpe, both with quaint historic buildings. Tonic restaurant in Millthorpe is alone worth the detour.

Six hours’ drive north-west of Sydney, Tamworth needs little introduction. Australia’s country music capital has a surprising number of other attractions to offer visitors, however. Newest among them is the Australian Equine and Livestock Events Centre, a massive horseshoe-shaped stadium that seats thousands of spectators. Opened in February 2009, the Equine Centre is close to the Regional Entertainment Centre, which is also impressive for its sheer size. It seats up to 4,800 and is the venue for the closing concert of the Tamworth Country Music Festival every January.

Schedule your visit to coincide with a performance if you can – the Queensland Symphony Orchestra has performed here, as have acts such as Powderfinger and Silverchair.

Take the obligatory photo in front of the Big Golden Guitar then mosey on to the Walk A Country Mile Interpretative Centre, which recounts the history of country music in Australia. Its 26 wax figures of country music greats are arranged in natural settings with genuine memorabilia. The vast music shop in this complex is so popular that in January it’s a sea

of people, as visitors come to look for that much sought-after CD or video.

One of Tamworth’s biggest claims to fame, apart from the festival, is that it was the first town in regional Australia to get electric street lights. For trivia buffs, this momentous occasion occurred in November 1888. For the full story, drop into the Power Station Museum with its motley collection of memorabilia, from exhibits on the development of electricity to early electric household appliances and even a display of light bulbs.

There’s a sweet smell in the air at the Banalasta, Blickling Estate and World Forest 2000 Visitor

Previous page: Grazing cows in OrangeTop left to right: Moulder Park, Orange; a local winery in Mudgee; a young cowboy takes time out in TamworthAbove: Fresh regional produce abound, including delicious figs



Travel brief

>> rest your head atMudgee: Best Western Wanderlight Motor Inn ★★★ 107 Market Street, Mudgee, NSW 2850 Ideal for visitors wanting to explore the local wineries.

Orange: Best Western Orange Motor Lodge ★★★ 110 Bathurst Road, Orange, NSW 2800 Close to restaurants and vineyards.

Tamworth: Best Western All Settlers Motor Inn ★★★★ 191 Goonoo Goonoo Road, Tamworth, NSW 2340 Affordable luxury set amidst landscaped gardens.

Tamworth: Best Western Sanctuary Inn ★★★ 293 Marius Street, Tamworth, NSW 2340 Award-winning property close to the CBD.

Tamworth: Best Western Tamworth Motor Inn ★★★ 212-218 Goonoo Goonoo Road, Tamworth, NSW 2340 Ideal for visitors on holiday or business.

>> what’s on

Farmers Markets, grounds of St Mary’s Catholic Church, Mudgee; third Saturday of each month. 02 6372 6594

Henry Lawson Heritage Festival, various locations in Gulgong, June long weekend.

Mudgee Wine Festival: Food and wine events, live entertainment and other activities at various locations throughout September. www.mudgeewine.com.au

Huntington Estate Music Festival, November 25-29: International and Australian musicians perform in the barrel room of Huntington Estate winery, Mudgee. www.huntingtonestate.com.au

Tamworth Country Music Festival, January 15-24, 2010. If you dig country music, you can’t afford to miss it. www.tamworthcountrymusic.com.au

>> more information

For more information, visit www.visitnsw.com.

Centre at Bendemeer, about 50 kilometres north of Tamworth, where grapes, lavender and eucalyptus oil are produced on a 3,000ha plantation, for use in a range of health and skincare products that can be bought alongside wine from the property.

Declared an official wine region only in January 2008, Tamworth has around 40 vineyards, including Tangaratta with its cute cellar door and chapel. It has a good selection of cafes and restaurants, but perhaps the best known is the sSs BBQ Barn, which is country right down to its cowboy boots, with swinging doors, neon signs and country music playing.

Owners Graham and Marlene Manvell produce their own beef, own vineyards and run a micro-brewery, giving true meaning to the term ‘paddock to plate’. They are great entrepreneurs, having opened nine such saloons in northern NSW and southern Queensland in the last 15 years.

By reinventing themselves, the historic towns of central-west and north-west NSW have evolved into smart destinations. Nowhere is this more evident than in Nundle, a short drive from Tamworth, where you can enjoy a hearty pub lunch or a sophisticated restaurant meal.

Hire some equipment and go fossicking at Mount Misery Gold Mine or stock up on beautiful wool and designer knitwear from Nundle Woollen Mill. Like the Manvells, Peter and Judy Howarth, who established the mill and were responsible for much of the town’s revitalisation, are keeping the country alive.

plate’. They are great entrepreneurs, having opened nine such saloons in northern NSW and southern

By reinventing themselves, the historic towns of central-west and north-west NSW have evolved into smart destinations. Nowhere is this more evident than in Nundle, a short drive from Tamworth, where you

Mount Misery Gold Mine or stock up on beautiful wool and designer knitwear from Nundle Woollen Mill. Like the Manvells, Peter and Judy Howarth, who established the mill and were responsible for much of the town’s revitalisation, are keeping the

Look out for olive oil and fig products at the di Lusso cellar door and find yourself in heaven among the locally made products and gift hampers at Mudgee Gourmet.



DID YOU KNOW?New Zealand sauvignon blanc is so highly regarded by the rest of the world that it has set the definitive benchmark style for the varietal. The country’s winemakers are also making a huge impression with their world-class chardonnay, pinot noir, sparkling wines, riesling, cabernet sauvignon and merlot blends.

grape escapes

34_ER9_Grape V2.indd 34 22/4/09 9:56:49 AM


WORDS: KatRina LObLey

If anyone embodies New Zealand’s pioneering spirit, it’s boutique winemaker John Matheson, owner

of Drumsara vineyards in Central Otago.When the former wool-grower and his

late wife Audrey purchased 8 hectares of land near Alexandra in 2000 with the dream of planting grapevines, the place was just “rocks and rabbits”, Matheson says.

Matheson isn’t the type to let little things like that get in his way. He promptly called in a bulldozer to break up the glacial rocks and gravels, planted his vines, fertilised them with a “compost tea” and today is justly proud of the award-winning pinot noir – as well as the pinot gris and the pinot rose – that bears the Drumsara name.

Central Otago lays claim to being New Zealand’s highest-altitude wine-growing region. With its extreme daily and seasonal temperatures along with the unusual soils, it’s producing intensely vibrant wines that are making the rest of the world sit up and take notice.

The winemakers themselves are also something special. On top of the usual grape-growing hazards, such as birds and wasps, these guys also do battle with potentially devastating spring frosts. They fight the freeze with a technique learned from the region’s orchardists – when frost threatens they mist the vines so that the buds or fruit become cocooned in ice, which slowly melts away as the sun rises.

Matheson, though, remains philosophical about these hardships. “In agriculture you’ve got to live by the seasons and the elements, and you just get on with it,” he says.

Even though Central Otago is relatively young in winemaking terms – the first vines

From Central Otago’s award-winning pinot noir

to the Waipara Valley’s stunning riesling varietals,

we’ve uncovered this year’s best wines – all the way from

New Zealand’s South Island.

with gold Stamped

34_ER9_Grape V2.indd 35 22/4/09 9:57:08 AM

were planted in the early 1980s – it’s already the country’s seventh-largest wine region and has wasted no time covering itself with gold. One of Matheson’s proudest moments came when his Drumsara Ventifacts Block Pinot Noir Central Otago 2007 won gold at last year’s International Wine and Spirit Competition in London.

Gold also went to fellow Central Otago labels Remarkable Wines for its Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir Central Otago 2006 and to Mt Diffi culty for its Roaring Meg Pinot Noir Central Otago 2007.

While Drumsara doesn’t have a cellar door, Matheson welcomes visitors. After a wander around the vineyard, guests amble down to The Orchard Garden – a nearby restaurant owned by friends – for tastings of the Drumsara drop.

Another South Island wine hotspot is the Waipara Valley, one hour’s drive north of Christchurch and part of the larger Canterbury wine region (New Zealand has 10 distinct wine regions, fi ve on each island).

Waipara Hills is one of the Valley’s success stories. In less than 10 years, its wines have picked up close to 300 awards. The winery and its restaurant can be found alongside State Highway One; it also leases a winemaking facility further north in Marlborough, the country’s largest and most famous wine region.

When Drumsara won gold last year, the Waipara Hills Southern Cross Selection Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2007 also picked up gold at the same awards. Like many other New Zealand wineries, Waipara Hills produces a Marlborough sauvignon blanc to add depth to its range. But good luck in getting your hands on a bottle. Waipara Hills’ head winemaker Simon McGeorge says: “I think even my little library stock in the cellar is all cleaned out.”

McGeorge, who grew up in the Canterbury region and has now returned

‘home’ after plying his craft in the North Island’s Hawkes Bay area, believes it’s only a matter of time before Waipara’s own sauvignon blanc grapes become just as sought-after as Marlborough’s.

“The sauvignon here hasn’t really built up a reputation at this point, yet I think there’s something quite special and quite different here,” says McGeorge.

The winemaker says Waipara’s stunning riesling wines in particular are a big point of difference from Marlborough.

“Year after year, we fi nd a proportion of the leading riesling of New Zealand come out of the Waipara region,” he says. “This has proven to be a special area for making these aromatic varieties.”

McGeorge says because of the Valley’s particular micro-climate, “the fruit hangs on the vine that little bit longer, really building up the sugars and the fl avours keep developing – and the more fl avour we get, the more aromatics we get”.

Although the Waipara Valley has been producing stand-out wines for nearly three decades, in many ways the region still feels like a rising star.

“Plantings here have quadrupled over the past fi ve years,” says McGeorge. “There’s a lot of investment and a lot of faith being put into the region.”

MY FAVOURITE Acclaimed artist Joanna Braithwaite, who grew up and worked in the Canterbury region before moving to Sydney a decade ago, confesses to a weakness for Central Otago pinot noir. Ask her which are her favourite Central Otago pinot producers, and Braithwaite

doesn’t hesitate: Rippon at Lake Wanaka, Felton Road at Bannockburn and Wild Earth, which has two Central Otago vineyards.

“These wines have a great fullness but they don’t give you the headache you get with some of the Australian shiraz and cab savs,” she says. “There’s something about them – they have a taste that

you associate with some of those more dramatic parts of New Zealand.”

Braithwaite, a fi nalist in last year’s Archibald Prize – Australia’s most famous art prize – says when she can’t afford her favourite labels, she goes for a Rocky Point [Prophets Rock’s secondary label] pinot noir instead.


GRAPE ESCAPES

me’ after plying his craft in the North ’s Hawkes Bay area, believes it’s only

of time before Waipara’s own blanc grapes become just as

s Marlborough’s. on here hasn’t really built

this point, yet I thinkte special and q

George.Waipa >>

REST YOUR HEAD AT

Christchurch: Best Western Clyde on Riccarton

280 Riccarton Road, ChristchurchSelf-contained units located a short bus ride from the CBD with internet access, kitchens, spa baths, off-street parking and BBQ/play area.

Christchurch: Best Western Camelot Motor Lodge

28 Papanui Road, Christchurch CentralConveniently located two-storey apartments in smart complex with swimming and spa pools.

Dunedin: Best Western 555 on Bayview

555 Andersons Bay Road, Dunedin This motel features quiet rooms, modern facilities and friendly hosts.

Queenstown: Best Western Cranbury Court Apartments

19-23 Gorge Road, Queenstown Self-contained apartments each come equipped with cable TV, a full kitchen and washer/dryer, located minutes from Queenstown’s centre.

Wanaka: Best Western Belvedere Luxury Apartments

29 Warren Street, WanakaThis complex of two-bedroom apartments also includes two stylish executive apartments with gas fi replaces.

34_ER9_Grape V2.indd 38 23/4/09 3:16:12 PM

Stoneleigh. Made with the magic of sunstones.

Made with the magic of sunstones.www.stoneleigh.co.nz Enjoy the magic. Drink Stoneleigh responsibly.


WORDS: kRiS maDDen

Recent projects include clean-ups of the beaches and harbour, specifically targeting plastic and fishing debris which kill marine life; undertaking surveys and marine animal rescue; and assisting with scientific research.

“What is different about us is that we’re not after world domination. We’ve deliberately kept our volunteer membership small to keep our costs low and focus our efforts on making a difference to the local marine environment that we know intimately,” says Thomas.

Over the past summer, the group took up the Coastcare challenge of spending 100 hours in the water to remove one tonne of rubbish. At the end of January, Eco Divers had removed 400 kilograms of plastic debris, the equivalent of 60 bags of rubbish.

The 40 members of Eco Divers come from all backgrounds; some are marine scientists, while others simply have a passion for the ocean and want to give something back to the marine world that has provided them with so much pleasure.

If you would like to know more about Eco Divers, call into Café Splat in Queenscliff at the end of Manly Beach, which has become something of a headquarters for this gang of

underwater eco-warriors. Owners John and Pippa are supporting the group in their ‘Life on the Edge’ challenge – a practical initiative by Coastcare to encourage all Australians to give back to local volunteer groups who look after the coast – and have set up the first ‘coffee offset scheme’. An additional 10 cents added to the cost of each cup of coffee goes towards supporting the Eco Divers in their goal to purchase new equipment and continue their good work.

If you would like to support Eco Divers without getting wet you can find out more by visiting www.everydayhero.com.au.

Top: A diver sets off to explore the underwater world Above, left to right: Eco Divers view what they’ve caught down below; a shark tangled in a net off one of Sydney’s beaches

Pho

tog

rAPh

: DAv

E th

om

AS

Pho

tog

rAPh

: DAv

E th

om

AS

38-39_ER9_Volunteer.indd 39 22/4/09 10:07:49 AM


Volunteer in Focus

Secreted away on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, a small band of dedicated volunteers is tirelessly and quietly going

about the business of saving the planet – one fish at a time.

Eco Divers is a not-for-profit marine conservation group that is working to ensure the preservation, protection and promotion of the local underwater environment.

Dave Thomas, founder of Eco Divers, has had a love affair with the sea for a long time. He got his first mask, snorkel and fins at the age of three and would wear them while watching popular American television series Sea Hunt. A scuba diver for more than 25 years, Dave and a troupe of his long-time dive buddies were troubled by the rapid degradation of the marine environment and decided to do something about it.

“We didn’t have a name or a defined purpose; we were just a bunch of people trying to physically make a difference. The thing we shared was a passion, respect and connection with the sea and its inhabitants,” says Thomas.

“When we first started about a decade ago, our divers were concerned about the enormous amounts of plastic and packaging

DiD you know?Around 100 million tonnes of plastic is produced each year of which about 10 per cent ends up in the sea. it has been estimated that more than one million seabirds and 100,000 marine mammals and sea turtles are killed each year by ingestion of plastics or entanglement in discarded nets and fishing lines. source: GreenpeAce internAtionAl

A group of 40 members, ranging from marine biologists to journalists, has been brought together by one passion: the ocean. En Route investigates how Sydney-based marine group, Eco Divers, is helping to change the world.

Fighting for

the fishthat were not only destroying the visual beauty of the marine environment, but dramatically affecting its wildlife as well.

“In Australia, most people live within 100 kilometres of the coast, and humans have had a tremendous impact on the quality of our coastal and oceanic environments.

“Increasing damage through development, industry, marine-based pollution and destructive fishing methods were taking a grim toll on this fragile habitat.

“In that time one of the biggest changes we have seen is the increased awareness and changing attitudes of the general public. Gradually, we’ve seen an improvement in the amount of rubbish found under water. It’s a good start, but there is still more work to do,” Thomas explains.

Today, Eco Divers is a little more structured, but remains true to its core values of direct action conservation and acting locally while thinking globally.

Sydney’s Northern Beaches is an area of high marine biodiversity and the group works almost exclusively in this area on a variety of projects from monitoring seagrass to protecting sharks.

A group of 40 members, ranging from marine biologists to journalists, has

the fishthe fish


38-39_ER9_Volunteer.indd 38 22/4/09 10:05:44 AM


passport

It would take a lifetime to experience the Philippines to the full, but here are just some of its highlights to

give you a taste of what’s on offer.

All thAt

glitters

This page: Palawan, Bacuit Bay, El Nido

40_ER9_Passport.indd 40 22/4/09 10:15:57 AM


WORDS: JOhn BORthWick

glitters

it is a realm of cathedrals and beauty queens, of volcanoes, spas, bars and whale sharks. take all this, add fiestas, history and religious mysticism, and the Philippines can

sometimes seem like a grand exercise in magical realism. At only eight flying hours from eastern Australia, some 121,500 of us visited the Philippines last year to see for ourselves.

this nation of almost 100 million people and over 7,100 islands greets you at its super-sized capital, Manila, on luzon island. As cities go, Manila, founded in 1571, is a big hitter – a vastness of suburbs, malls, churches and jeepney jams, of glittering wealth and sometimes its grinding opposite, plus round-the-clock food and music. Metro Manila, an amalgamation of 17 cities and municipalities, has numerous areas to explore although most initially head to a hotel in either Makati or the bayside Malate–ermita area.

For many visitors shopping is the main ‘thriller in Manila’, especially in the malls of the upmarket Makati business district. Overall, Makati’s shopping zone can seem like a single, vast and well-dressed factory outlet, such is the range, quality and bargain prices of its goods, most notably in fashion and footwear.

so many islands, so few days. leaving the capital and heading south of luzon, you’ll find the archipelago’s ornate necklace of islands loops across the south China, Celebes, sulu and Mindanao seas. each island offers the visitor something different, from excellent surf and beaches of talcum sand to the world’s tiniest monkeys.

Boracay, 350 kilometres south of Manila in the Visayas archipelago, is by far the country’s best-known resort island,

and its four-kilometre White Beach is justifiably one of the most photographed in the Pacific. scores of small hotels, boutiques, dive shops and little bars now front its celebrated strand. With some 30 beaches and coves, Boracay offers water sports galore – diving, snorkelling, sailing and kayaking – as well as golf and island hopping. Predictably, it is a favourite with honeymooners and couples, the perfect place to kick back with a sunset cocktail and watch the outrigger boats glide home beneath a sky of shot silk.

less hyped than Boracay, but even more spectacular is Palawan Province, home to the stunning el Nido Marine reserve. A wreath of uninhabited islands juts from its turquoise waters. local hunters scale soaring limestone cliffs for the precious swallow nests from which the region takes its name – el nido, the nest. By kayak you can paddle into hidden lagoons and see surprising visions – a black heron swooping above the water mirroring the trail of a stingray across the bottom. A domain of isles whittled by the sea and tiny half-moon beaches, el Nido is a world apart, even from the Philippines.

Cebu, the nation’s second-largest city, is the hub of the central Philippines and your springboard to the Visayas islands. “Unfortunately, we murdered our first tourist,” your guide might joke, referring to navigator Ferdinand Magellan, the first european in the Philippines, who was felled in 1521 on nearby Mactan island. these days visitors receive a far friendlier welcome. Cebu, like Manila, is an excellent shopping destination – think shoes, clothing, furniture and handicrafts.



Call centres. We love to hate them – and can’t live without them. With English widely spoken as a second if not first language, the Philippines was a natural choice for the establishment of call centres. Initially they catered mainly to the American market, but Filipino centres are now increasingly servicing Australian customers. By 2004 the Philippines had reportedly captured 20 per cent of the world market and the national government is now aiming for 50 per cent of the total English-speaking market. With well over 700 centres scattered throughout the country and contributing some 12 per cent of the Philippines GNP, this sector is also the fastest-growing job provider for Filipino college graduates.

Ring Ring

PAssPort

Bohol Island in the Visayas has several claims to fame including the Chocolate Hills, some 1,200 green domes that sit on a jungle plain like after-dinner mints on a plate. Less visible here is one of the world’s tiniest mammals, the monkey-like Tarsius – weighing in at just 120 grams and 15 centimetres high.

Meanwhile, if you head back to northern Luzon, the beautiful colonial city of Vigan awaits. In the final days of World War II, this offshore Iberian gem miraculously escaped being both razed by the retreating Japanese and bombarded by the advancing Americans. Now World Heritage listed, the town’s cobbled streets and 150 ancestral Colonial houses are well loved by Filipinos, yet Vigan

GEttING thErE>>

Philippine Airlines (PAL) and Qantas fly directly to Manila from Australia. PAL and domestic carriers have extensive networks linking the capital with most major cities and islands.

rEst your hEAd At>>

Boracay: Best Western Boracay TropicsBoat Station 2, BoracayThe newly opened Best Western Boracay Tropics offers 50 rooms – all complete with balcony, air conditioning, cable TV and mini bar – in a lush tropical garden setting.

Manila: Best Western Astor Hotel Makati 7835 Makati Avenue, MakatiRising 26 storeys above the premier financial district of the country, the hotel offers 120 well-appointed rooms and suites equipped with cable television, electronic safety box and many other features, plus complimentary buffet breakfast.

Manila: Best Western Hotel La Corona Manila 1166 M.H. Del Pilar Street, Ermita This boutique hotel is located in the heart of the tourist area beside Manila Bay. Malls, restaurants, Old Manila and Rizal Park are all within easy reach, while the hotel boasts a business centre, conference facilities and internet access.

WhEN to Go>>

March to June is the hottest season, and June to July is the wettest period. November to December tends to be the coolest time to visit.

MorE INForMAtIoN>>

Australians do not require a visa for the Philippines for visits of up to 21 days. For more information visit www.tourism.gov.ph.

This page (above): The monkey-like tarsier; (below): Quiapo Church, Manila

remains refreshingly ‘under-discovered’ by international tourists.

To the east of Vigan, over Luzon’s Cordillera Central range, sits Banaue, celebrated as the home of ‘The Stairway of the Gods’ – thousands of hand-hewn rice terraces notched into the precipitous green mountain slopes. Construction began some 3,000 years ago on what are considered the world’s finest and most complex rice terraces.

The Philippines offers too much to do in a lifetime, let alone in one visit. As you leave, ‘do a MacArthur’. That is, follow the example of General Douglas MacArthur as he escaped the Japanese-occupied Philippines in 1942, and declare boldly, “I shall return.”

dId you kNoW?Donsol Bay on the south-east coast of Luzon is known as the ‘whale shark capital of the world’. The largest fish in the ocean, Rhincodon typus, or whale shark, cruises these waters from December to June.

Travel brief

Pho

tog

raPh

: to

uri

sm P

hil

iPPi

nes


Experience a really breathtaking vacation lazing on white powdery sand and dipping into a turquoise sea lapping the shores of an idyllic tropical island.

Best Western Boracay Tropics, Philippines

The 50-room Best Western Boracay Tropics is a beautiful blend of Mediterranean and Asian architecture. Each room opens onto its own balcony with most overlooking a refreshing lagoon. Six cabana suites sit among lush tropical gardens. Easily accessed by superior ferry services to the resort daily.Now open for reservations.

Best Western hotels & resorts in Philippines: Best Western Astor Hotel Makati, Manila Best Western Hotel La Corona, Manila Best Western Boracay Tropics, Boracay

For more information and reservations, Call Best Western Asia Head Office at +662 656 1260 or visit www.bestwestern.com

Summer getaway with Best WesternSummer getaway with Best Western

En Route

Best Western Boracay Tropics



on the move with kids

Chairmanof the

board

Board games are no longer boring. The old favourites, like Monopoly and Trivial Pursuit, are making a high-tech comeback.

The besT of The resT

Pictureka! requires players to find hidden, quirky objects before the timer runs out. Go one-on-one or team up to find five rockets in 30 seconds, or eight things that can’t fly. Ages 6+

Archaeology: the Card Game is the Best Australian Game, according to Boardgames Australia. You become a collector of ancient artefacts, digging up pieces of objects and trading them at the marketplace. Ages 8+

Cluedo has just been re-released, adding a modern twist to the classic game. A millionaire is killed inside an extravagant celebrity mansion. Players need to act really fast or the murderer may strike again. Ages 9+

Kogworks is a stylish-looking game of pure strategy. The playing pieces are cogs, which you slip over pegs to build a rotating machine. Your aim is to turn the top cogwheel, or lock-up your opponent’s master cogwheel. Ages 10+

Acronymia is about creating descriptive sentences based on letters in an acronym. For example, if you choose a card which reads JUMP, you could say ‘Jerky Upward Movement Pulse’. Your creativity is then scored by other players. Ages 12+

44-45_ER9_kids.indd 44 22/4/09 10:14:12 AM


WORDS: tRacey SpiceR

Remember the days when parents and kids actually talked? Played games? Had fun together? Some of my favourite childhood

memories consist of Mum, Dad, my sister and me sitting around a rickety old card table playing Penny on the Queen, Canasta and Gin Rummy.

These days, a typical family portrait includes a teenage boy on his iPod, a schoolgirl texting on her phone, Dad working on one computer and Mum in a chat room on another. No-one is actually communicating with each other.

Well, the good news is that things are changing. The global economic crisis brings with it a new frugality: wistful thinking about the ‘good old days’ when we had fun without spending a fortune.

Dog-eared games of Monopoly are being dragged out of the closet.

I know one family who used the Australian version of the game to choose their next holiday destination. The winner’s ‘thong’ token landed on the Barossa Valley and a fun family adventure to South Australia’s favourite wine-producing region shortly followed.

Interestingly, Monopoly has been updated to include references to climate change, with Wind Energy and Solar Energy replacing Water Works and Electric Company.

You can also buy the latest version, Monopoly Here & Now: The World Edition, as a console game for Wii, PlayStation or Xbox 360.

Trivial Pursuit has gone digital: you can download hundreds of up-to-date questions onto a handheld unit, including ‘What is the capital of Iceland?’ (It’s Reykjavik, incidentally.)

In our house, Buzz is the latest craze – and I’m not talking about the superhero from Toy Story. It’s a hilarious PlayStation trivia game, featuring actor Jason Donovan as a sardonic quiz show host. You can plug in up to eight buzzers, so it’s great for the extended family or a big group of friends.

For some up close and personal family bonding, why not try Twister? You’re never too young: the four-year-olds at my son’s pre-school were tangled in knots, rolling and laughing on a Twister mat a couple of weeks ago.

Even Scrabble is aiming for the youth market, with versions including Dora the Explorer (‘learn to spell in English and Spanish’) and The Simpsons (‘Bart makes up the rules’).

On the computer, you can play Snake Scrabble (the reptile glides around the board, eating letter tiles) and Scrabble Hangman.

We love games in our house, but Scrabble is banned because I always win; ditto Monopoly because I always lose.

The marriage-saving option is The Game of Life, originally created by Milton Bradley in 1860. It’s a little darker than the aforementioned games, finishing with a Day of Reckoning where you could end up at the Poor Farm, or as a Millionaire Tycoon – neither terribly appealing in this day and age.

Our family’s favourite games remain the old-fashioned ones, like Hide and Seek and Connect Four, which Captain Cook reportedly played on his long voyages.

It doesn’t really matter what you play. The real name of the game is togetherness.

Newsreader Tracey Spicer is the editor of the family travel magazine,Out & About With Kids.

WORDS: tRacey Spice

Then & nowMonopoly remains the best-selling board game in the world, sold in 81 countries in 27 languages. The first version, made in 1933 at the height of the Great Depression, was rejected by Parker Brothers due to ‘52 design errors’. Inventor Charles B Darrow subsequently produced the game on his own. The latest version, Monopoly Here & Now: The World Edition, was released in August last year. It features a deal timer for faster play, while tokens, houses and hotels reflect styles from the different cultures represented on the board.

Left: Two children play a game of checkersAbove: Hide and Seek remains a family favouriteRight: The much-loved game of Monopoly

44-45_ER9_kids.indd 45 22/4/09 10:14:31 AM


PAGE 30

• Mudgee: Best Western Wanderlight Motor Inn ★★★

• Orange: Best Western Orange Motor Lodge ★★★

• Tamworth: Best Western All Settlers Motor Inn ★★★★

• Tamworth: Best Western Sanctuary Inn ★★★

• Tamworth: Best Western Tamworth Motor Inn ★★★

TAKE YOUR PICK

Discover the best of Australia and NZTravel is one of life’s greatest pleasures. And with Best Western, you have all your bases covered, with a wide range of properties across Australia and New Zealand. Use our handy directory to explore destination options, while getting some insight into this issue’s featured locations.

Perth

46_ER9_Directory.indd 46 22/4/09 10:20:57 AM

47www.bestwestern.com.au

Hobart (Battery Point, Glenorchy)

Melbourne

Adelaide (Glenelg) Sydney

BrisbaneBrisbaneBrisbane

Auckland

Wellington

•

PAGE 34

• Hamilton: Best Western Hygate Motor Lodge

PAGE 10

• Christchurch: Best Western Clyde on Riccarton

• Christchurch: Best Western Camelot Motor Lodge

• Dunedin: Best Western 555 on Bayview• Queenstown: Best Western

Cranbury Court Apartments• Wanaka: Best Western

Belvedere Luxury Apartments

Canberra

46_ER9_Directory.indd 47 22/4/09 10:27:55 AM

Kakadu, NT“We went on a family holiday to Kakadu when

I was about 10 years old and slept under the

stars in our tents. It was amazing.”


Auckland, NZ“In 1990, my brother Michael represented Australia in triathlon over in Auckland. It was a really memorable trip.”

happy holidays interview: kristy barratt

Champion marathon swimmer and new mum, Susie Maroney shares her favourite destinations with En Route.

Hamilton Island, QLD“I did a 40-kilometre swim around Hamilton Island back in 1995. The water was so warm! It’s a beautiful spot to holiday.”

Water baby

PHo

Tog

rAPH

y: r

ICH

ArD

WH

ITBr

EAD

Cronulla, NSW“I love my home town of Cronulla. It’s where I grew up and I think my heart will always belong here.”

48_ER9_Happy Holidays.indd 48 22/4/09 10:30:41 AM

Best Western and FlyBuys have given our guests great rewards for years. Now we are giving you the chance to win 200,000 FlyBuys bonus points.*

Stay at any Best Western property from 1 May 2009 until 30 June 2009 (on eligible rates) and receive your standard FlyBuys points plus the chance to win 200,000 FlyBuys bonus points by entering the competition below. You could be one of five lucky winners.

To enter, visit www.bestwestern.com.au/onemillion

1,000,000 FlyBuys bonus points up for grabs!

*Terms and conditions 1. The promotion commences on 1 May 2009 and entries must be received by midnight (AEST) 30 June 2009. 2. Entry is only open to Australian residents aged 18 years or over who hold a valid FlyBuys membership on the date of entry and the date of the draw (Eligible Entrants). Employees (and their immediate families) of Best Western Australasia, participating businesses and agencies associated with this promotion are ineligible to enter. 3. This is a game of skill. All entries will be judged. There are five prizes to be won, each consists of 200,000 FlyBuys bonus points. The best five (5) entries will win 200,000 FlyBuys bonus points, which will be awarded to the primary cardholder and will be credited to the winners' points account by 15 August 2009. 4. To enter this promotion, Eligible Entrants must: 1) stay at a Best Western property in Australia between 1 May 2009 and 30 June 2009, booking on eligible rates, which qualifies for FlyBuys points; and 2) log onto www.bestwestern.com.au/onemillion and answer the question "Tell us in 100 words or less how would you spend the 200,000 FlyBuys bonus points". 5. Eligible rates exclude group bookings, special events, packages and special rates. FlyBuys points will not be awarded on these exclusions. 6. Only one entry is allowed per FlyBuys membership. 7. The Promoter is Best Western Australasia ABN 33 000 237 141. 8. Standard FlyBuys terms & conditions apply and are available at flybuys.com.au. 9. Full terms and conditions of this competition are available at www.bestwestern.com.au/onemillion.

Free nights, flights, car hire and travel products... what would you do with 200,000 FlyBuys bonus points?

virginblue.com.au Where great ideas fl y

CumminsNitro © VIR 1702 EBW NET

We’ve got it covered with2900 weekly fl ights and 79 diff erent

routes across Australia, New Zealand, Indonesia, The South Pacific, and

now the U.S. So when we say we’rethere for you, we really mean it.

connections in allthe right places.







VIR 1702 FP EBW NET.indd 1 17/4/09 12:05:42 PM48_ER9_Happy Holidays.indd 50 20/4/09 2:34:29 PM

Documents

EnRoute#9