Eco Substitutes in Textile Processing

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    ECO SUBSTITUTES IN TEXTILE

    Introduction

    Chemical Substitution

    Many chemicals currently used in thetextile industry influence the

    environment. Sometimes these chemicals can be substituted by other chemicals. The total

    quantity of chemicals used in textile mills varies from 10% to over 100% the weight of

    the cloth. This is not always easy due to the lack of information about BOD data and

    aquatic toxicity of the chemicals and due to the proprietary nature of specialty chemicals.

    A recommendation many mills get is to substitute low BOD chemicals for chemicals with

    a high BOD. These low BOD chemicals will help to reduce the waste load of the mills

    effluent. However, little is known about the long-term effects of these products. Potential

    negative effects of some chemicals on the environment are,

    1) Alkyl phenol ethoxylates (detergents, wetting agents, levelling agents, etc.): their

    metabolites (octyl- and nonyl phenols) are highly toxic to aquatic life and are reported to

    disturb the reproduction of aquatic species.

    2) Polybrominated diphenyl ethers and chlorinated paraffins (flame retardants),

    halogenated phenols and benzenes (reagents in the production of flame retardants): some

    members of these classes of substances (e.g. pentabromodiphenylether, C10-13

    chloroparaffines) have already been identified as Priority Hazardous Substances fortheir toxicity.

    3) Sequestering agents such as EDTA and DTPA and NTA: these are capable of forming

    very stable complexes with metals (EDTA and DTPA are also poorly bioeliminable).

    4) Chlorine and chlorine-releasing compounds such as sodium hypochlorite (bleaching

    agent).

    5) Metal-containing compounds such as potassium dichromate.

    Eco Substitution

    The main environmental issues associated with textile industry arise from

    emissions to water. The changing face of environmental legislation is causing serious

    problems for industries many and the textile industry is no exception. A new parameter

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    that today increasingly vital is ecology. The logo of eco-labeling is becoming an

    increasingly important factor. Worldwide environmental problems associated with the

    textile industry are typically those associated with the water pollution caused by the

    discharge of untreated effluents and those because of use of toxic chemicals especially

    during processing. These chemicals can harm consumer if retained in the fabric. There is

    always a danger to the workforce in the industry via air, direct contact, accidental

    exposure etc. Hence the substitution of the non eco-friendly auxiliaries will only serve

    towards the consumer and the environment. The eco norms are also becoming stringent

    these days. Thus it is increasingly becoming necessary for the industry to adapt the novel

    trends, which are benevolent to the nature. 1

    Dyeing

    Several auxiliary chemicals are added to the bath during the dyeing processes.

    The mixtures are often developed to solve problems specific to the process. Some

    specialty chemicals are developed to counteract or enhance the effects of other chemicals.

    In other cases, the specialty chemicals cause side effects that are detrimental to the

    overall process. For example, wetting agents are often added to preparation and dyeing

    steps to ensure penetration of chemicals. Apart from a few exceptions (e.g. the thermosol

    process, pigment dyeing, etc.), most of the emissions originating from the dyeing process

    are emissions to water. Water-polluting substances can originate from the dyesthemselves (e.g. aquatic toxicity, metals, colour), auxiliaries contained in the dye

    formulation (e.g. dispersing agents, anti-foaming agents, etc.). Basic chemicals and

    auxiliaries used in dyeing processes are alkali, salts, reducing and oxidising agents, etc

    and residual contaminants present on the fiber (e.g. residues of pesticides on wool, spin

    finishes on synthetic fibres). 2, 3

    Pre-reduced sulphur dyestuffs (liquid formulations with sulphide content

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    Precautions while dyeing with disperse dyes

    1) Avoid the use of hazardous carriers by (in order of priority).

    2) Use of non-carrier dyeable polyester fibres (modified PET or PTT-type)

    3) Substituting conventional dye carriers with compounds based on benzylbenzoate and

    N-alkylphthalimide .Replacing sodium dithionite with reducing agent based on sulphinic

    acid derivatives.

    This should be combined with measures in order to ensure that only the strict amount of

    reducing agent needed to reduce the dyestuff is consumed (e.g. by using nitrogen to

    remove oxygen from the liquor and from the air in the machine).

    Dyeing with sulphur dyes

    1) Replace conventional powder and liquid sulphur dyes with stabilised non-pre-reduced

    Sulphide-free dyestuffs or with pre-reduced liquid dye formulations with a sulphide

    content of less than 1 %

    2) Replace sodium sulphide with sulphur-free reducing agents or sodium dithionite, in

    that order of preference

    3) Adopt measures to ensure that only the strict amount of reducing agent needed to

    reduce the dye solutions.

    4) Use of hydrogen peroxide as oxidising agent.

    Sulphur-containing reducing agents

    Waste water from sulphur dyeing contains sulphides used in the process as reducing

    agents. In some cases the sulfide is already contained in the dye formulation and in some

    other cases it is added to the dye bath before dyeing. In the end, however, the excess of

    sulfide ends up in the water. Sulphides are toxic to aquatic organisms and contribute to

    increasing COD load. In addition, sulphide anions are converted into hydrogen sulphide

    under acidic conditions, thereby giving rise to problems of odour and corrosivity.

    Sodium hydrosulphite (also called sodium dithionite) is another sulphur-containing

    reducing agent, which is commonly used not only in sulphur and vat dyeing processes,

    but also as reductive after-cleaning agent in polyester dyeing. Sodium hydrosulphite is

    less critical than sodium sulfide. However, during the dyeing process sodium dithionite is

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    converted into sulphite (toxic to fish and bacteria) and in some cases this is further

    oxidised into sulphate. 4, 5, 6

    In the waste water treatment plant sulphite is normally oxidised into sulphate, but this can

    still cause problems. Sulphate, in fact, may cause corrosion of concrete pipes or may be

    reduced under anaerobic conditions into hydrogen sulphide.Hydroxyacetone, although it

    produces an increase in COD load, is recommended to lower the sulphur content in waste

    water, but it cannot replace hydrosulphite in all applications. Consumption of the

    reducing agent by the oxygen present in the machine (partially-flooded dyeing machines)

    needs also to be taken into account. Instead of applying only the amount of reducing

    agent required for the reduction of the dyestuff, a significant extra amount of reducing

    agent often needs to be added to compensate for the amount consumed by the oxygen

    contained in the machine. This obviously increases oxygen demand of the effluent.

    Oxidising agents

    Dichromate should be avoided as an oxidising agent when dyeing with vat and sulphur

    dyes, but it is still widely used for the fixation of chrome dyes in wool dyeing.Chromium

    III exhibits low acute toxicity, while chromium VI is acutely toxic and has been shown to

    be carcinogenic towards animals. During the dyeing processes with chrome dyes, CrVI is

    reduced to Cr III if the process is under control. Nevertheless, emissions of Cr VI may

    still occur due to inappropriate handling of dichromate during dye preparation (care must

    be taken as dichromate is carcinogenic and may cause health problems for workers

    handling it). The use of bromate, iodate and chlorite as oxidising agents in vat and

    sulphur dyeing processes and the use of hypochlorite as stripping agent for decolouring

    faulty goods or for cleaning dyeing machines (e.g. before subsequent lighter-coloured

    dyeing) may produce AOX emissions. However, only hypochlorite and elemental-

    chlorine-containing compounds (e.g. certain chlorite products that contain chlorine or use

    chlorine as activator for formation of chlorine dioxide gas) are likely to give rise to

    hazardous AOX.

    Important precautions in dyeing for reducing pollution

    1) Dyes found to be containing PCBs (e.g. certain sources of Cu-phtalocyanine) should

    be substituted immediately.

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    2) Cadmium containing pigments should not be used.

    3) Benzidine-based azo-dyes should not be used at all.

    4) Carriers containing chlorine should not be used.

    5) Reduction of dyes by sulphide should be avoided. Dichromate oxidation of vat dyes

    and sulphur dyes should be substituted by peroxide oxidation.

    6) Azo dyes, which can, under reductive conditions, release aromatic amines, which are

    suspected carcinogens, should not be used.

    7) Halogenated solvents and dispersants for dyes and chemicals should be substituted

    where possible by water-based systems.

    8) Metal containing dyes (Cu, Cr, Ni, Co, etc.) should be substituted by other dyes ortechniques.

    9) In order to minimize the discharges of BOD, COD, etc. as well as of colored

    substances in case of repeated dyeing, the rinsing bath should be used as next dye bath, it

    the after-treatment chemicals are compatible with the dye bath chemicals.

    Nonecofriendly

    chemical.

    1)Carriers in polyester dyeing

    a)Diphenyl

    b)O-phenyl phenyl

    c)P-phenyl phenyl

    d)O-dichloro benzene

    e)Trichlorobenzene

    2) Acetic acid

    (vat acid method of dyeing)

    3) Sodium sulphide ,sodium hydrosulphide

    (Reduction of sulphur dyes )

    4)Potassium

    Dichromate

    (oxidation of sulphur dyes )

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    5)Sodium hydroxide and sodium hydrosulphite

    (reduction of vat dyes )

    6) EDTA, DTPA

    (sequestering agent)

    Hazards1) Carriers in polyester dyeing.

    a)Affects central nervous system; Convolusions,

    Paralysis (high dose).

    b) Moderately toxic when ingested.

    c)Nausea ;Vomiting; Respiratory failure(high dose)

    d) Injury to liver and kidneys.

    e) Moderately toxic when inhaled.

    2) Severe corrosion in mouth and gastrointestinal track

    when ingested, vomiting, nausea,

    eye irritation

    3) Sodium sulphide:

    Corrosive; Inhalation: Irritation of upper respiratory

    tract.Skin Contact: Severe burns

    Eye Contact: Severe burns. Skin Absorption: May be

    harmful. Ingestion: Severe burns to mouth, throat, and

    stomach, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea

    Sodium hydrosulphide

    Solution is highly alkaline. Contains hydrogen sulphide , a

    highly toxic gas. Eye contact will cause marked eye

    irritation and possibly severe corneal damage. Skin contact

    will result in irritation and possible corrosion of the skin.

    Ingestion will irritate/burn mouth, throat and gastrointestinal

    tract. Contact with stomach acid will cause hydrogen sulfide

    vapors to be released.

    Heating or acid will cause hydrogen sulfide gas to evolve.

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    4) Possible carcinogen, eye contact can cause severe

    irritation and burns with possible damage, skin allergy, may

    affect kidneys if ingested.

    5)Sodium Hydroxide is a corrosive solid or liquid and can

    cause severe burns of the eyes, resulting in blindness.

    Sodium hydrosulpite is spontaneously Combustible If

    inhaled, could be harmful. Contact could cause burns to skin

    and eyes. Fire could produce irritating or poisonous gases.

    Runoff from fire-control or dilution water could cause

    pollution.

    6) Contains elements which add to the water pollution.

    Eco- substitute 1) Butyl benzoate.2) Benzoic acid.

    3) Glucose, mercapto ethanol. Sodium or potassium iodate,

    Peroxide

    4) Indirect electrolysis (using mediator, redox system).

    5) Contain N or P in their structure and are less

    biodegradable, contain heavy metals.

    6) Closed circuit technique indirect electrolysis (using

    mediator, redox systems).

    Remarks 1) Suitable, less efficient.

    2) Less efficient.

    3) Above 90 0 C acts as good reducing agent .Absence of

    obnoxious smells.

    4) Softer handle excellent fastness and color

    reproducibility, High wet fastness

    5) High rate of dye reduction6) None of these products contains N or P in their molecular

    structure. In addition, the hydroxy carboxylic acids and

    sugar-acrylic acid copolymers are readily biodegradable.

    Printing

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    Printing, like dyeing, is a process for applying colour to a substrate. However,

    instead of colouring the whole substrate (cloth, carpet or yarn) as in dyeing, print colour

    is applied only to defined areas to obtain the desired pattern. This involves different

    techniques and different machinery with respect to dyeing, but the physical and chemical

    processes that take place between the dye and the fiber are analogous to dyeing.

    Emission sources typical of printing processes are

    1) Printing paste residues.

    2) Waste water from wash-off and cleaning operations.

    3) Volatile organic compounds from drying and fixing.

    Drying and fixing are another important emission source in printing processes. The

    following pollutants may be encountered in the exhaust air

    1) Aliphatic hydrocarbons (C10-C20) from binders.

    2) Monomers such as acrylates, vinylacetates, styrene, acrylonitrile, acrylamide,

    butadiene.

    3) Methanol from fixation agents.

    4) Other alcohols, esters, polyglycols from emulsifiers.

    5) Formaldehyde from fixation agents.

    6) Ammonia (from urea decomposition and from ammonia present, for example, in

    pigment printing pastes).

    7) N-methylpyrrolidone from emulsifiers.

    8) Phosphoric acid esters.

    9) Phenylcyclohexene from thickeners and binders. 7

    Non ecofriendly chemical. 1) Polysaccharides ,polyacrylates ,CMC

    derivatives

    2)Urea

    3) Kerosene

    Hazards 1) High COD hard to degrade

    2)High levels of nitrogen contributes to

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    eutrophication

    3)Highly inflammable ;Irritation eyes, skin,

    nose, throat; burning sensation in chest;

    headache, nausea, lassitude (weakness,

    exhaustion), restlessness

    Eco- substitute 1)Guar gum, sodium alginate

    2) There exists an agent, based on

    polyacrylic acids, which is able to

    substitute urea by up to 70% during cotton

    printing.

    3) Water based colorants

    Remarks 1) Less efficient, costly

    2) The problem, however, is lower colour

    intensity during printing.

    3) Dull shades may be obtained.

    Finishing

    Ways to reduce pollution in finishing

    1) Finishing chemicals should be reused whenever possible

    2) Reducing the use of formaldehyde releasing chemicals as much as possible.

    Formaldehyde should be replaced with polycarboxylic. Alkylphenol should be

    replaced with fatty alcoholethoxylates

    3) Replacement of acetic acid (used for pH adjustment in resin finishing bath) with

    formic or mineral acids to reduce BOD load.

    4) Using formaldehyde- free cross-linking agents for cellulose textiles andformaldehyde-free dye-fixing agents.

    5) Using formaldehyde scavengers during application and storage of resin finished

    goods.

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    6) Dimethylol or dihydroxythlene urea used in anti-wrinklefinishing should be

    substituted by polycarboxylic acids, mainly 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid or

    glyoxales.

    7) MAC Complexing agents like DTDMAC, DSDMAC, DHTDMAC used insoftening finishing should be replaced with cellulose enzymes.

    8) Asbestos, halogenated Compounds like bromated diphenylethers and heavy metal

    containing compounds used in flame retardant finishing should be replaced by

    inorganic salts and phosphonates. 8

    9) Biocides such as chlorinated phenols, metallic salts (As, Zn, Cu, or Hg), DDE,DDT

    and benzothiazole used in preservation finishing should be substituted by UV

    treatment and, or mechanical processes or by enzymatic finishing.

    10) In case of using fireproofing chemicals, the best technique is that which consumes

    minimal amounts of water (such as Vacuum, back coating, foam) or techniques

    leading to minimal of residues particularly (e.g. foam).

    11) The use of hazardous chemicals for the conservation of textiles should be

    minimized, either through substitution or through tailor-made selective use to

    only those textiles which are exposed to possible environmental degradation.

    12) Limitation of the chlorination stage in wool shrink proofing by substitution of other

    techniques (e.g. peroxygen treatment).

    13) It is more recommended to build in the finishing chemicals into the fiber during

    production or during spinning than applying the finish at a later stage

    14) Concentrated residues from finishing should not be discharged. They should be

    reused or treated as waste.

    In case of mothproofing agent-contaminated water, the volume of bath should be reducedby employing e.g. mini-bowls, modified centrifuges or foam treatment during back

    coating laminating or carpets. 9

    In case of mothproofing finish, wastewater should be treated in such a way that excessive

    sludge is avoided. This sludge should preferably be incinerated as chemical waste or

    detoxified by wet (catalysed) oxidation

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    Softening

    Softeners - Softeners give a soft feel to the fabric. They are also used with starch and

    other additives to give softness and body to the fabric. Different types of softeners like

    cationic, reactive and emulsion are available. Except silicone softeners, all others are

    temporary and get washed off after two or three washes. Silicones also give water

    repellency, which is fast to washing and dry cleaning. It is compatible with other

    finishing agents. It can be easily applied on the cloth. Air porosity is not altered in fabrics

    treated with silicones. 1

    Problems associated:

    1) Many times the exhaustion of the softening agent is low which causes health

    problems if the softener is hazardous.

    2) Unpleasant odor of the softening agents.

    3) Skin irritation.

    4) Softener is not biodegradable. 10

    Non ecofriendly chemical. Polysiloxanes and derivatives (Softening

    agents)

    Quaternary ammonium siloxanes. Fattyacid modified melamine resins

    Hazards Skin allergies

    Eco- substitute 1) Vinyl and acrylic copolymers Polymeric

    softeners, Cellulose enzymes

    2)Epoxy modified silicones

    Remarks 1) Good results are obtained

    2) Do not require emulsifying agent

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    Durable press finishes

    Purpose

    Cellulosic fibers like cotton dont have natural bridges or cross-links between them.

    When deformed under stress (washing or wrinkling) the cellulose chains do not return to

    their original position. Therefore durable press finishes are given to the cotton fabrics to

    impart smooth drying properties and dimensional stability. Cross-linking agents are used

    to produce wash and wear and durable press properties. They are applied on fabrics

    which can be washed easily and dried to a smooth state. They exhibit excellent crease

    recovery. For preparing rein finished fabric the textile is impregnated with a solution of

    resin containing a catalyst, dried and cured at high temperature Examples: Urea

    formaldehyde resin, dimethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea. . 11,12,13,14

    Problems associated with durable press finish

    1) Most of the DP finishes contain formaldehyde as a cross linking agent .

    Formaldehyde is at toxic substance when present in gaseous as well as dissolved

    form.

    2) Formaldehyde is believed to be carcinogenic causing lung cancer when the test

    was performed on rats.

    3) It is a severe eye irritant dissolves in eye fluid resulting in inflammation.

    Remedy

    1) Partial replacement of N-methylol group with zero formaldehyde content. 1,15,16

    2) Formaldehyde scavengers.

    3) Efficiency of local ventilation.

    4) Control of atmospheric conditions since high temperature and humidity increase

    rate of formaldehyde release.

    5) Extensive use of steam pressing and forming operations in garments forming.

    Non ecofriendly chemical. 1) Urea formaldehyde resin, Ethylene urea and

    Melamaine derivatives in their uncross-

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    linked form

    2) Dimethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea.

    (DMDHEU) Ammonia liberated

    Hazards 1)Formaldehyde released is carcinogenic. Free

    formaldehyde irritates the mucosa, might cause

    inflammation of the eyes and can provoke allergic

    reaction.

    2) Formaldehyde released is carcinogenic.

    Ammonia hazards:

    Respiratory discomfort due to ammonia vapors,

    can irritate eyes and skin, shortness of breath,

    nausea, vomiting.Eco- substitute 1)Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)( an organic

    acid)

    2)Citric acid mixed with a polymer of maleic acid

    3)Phosphonoalkylpolycarboxylic acids in combinay

    in combination with polyacrylic acid

    Remarks 1)Bulk production is costly

    2)Superior wrinkle-free performance, good

    laundering durability, and high strength retention5,31,32

    3)Durable press performance equal to that of

    dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU)

    Also exhibit from about 10 to about 20 percent better

    retention of fabric strength than DMDHEU

    Stone Washing

    Biostoning and the closely related process of biopolishing are perhaps attracting most

    current attention in the area of enzyme processing. Conventional stone washing uses

    abrasive pumice stones in a tumbling machine to abrade and remove particles of indigo

    dyestuff from the surfaces of denim yarns and fabric. Cellulase enzymes can also cut

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    through cotton fibres and achieve much the same effect without the damaging abrasion of

    the stones on both garment and machine; moreover, there is no need for the time-

    consuming and expensive removal of stone particles from the garments after processing.

    Machine capacity can be improved by 30-50% due to reduce processing times; product

    variability is reduced and there is also less sludge deposited in the effluent. 1, 10

    Disadvantages can include degradation of the fabric and loss of strength as well as

    'backstaining' (discoloration of the white weft yarn, resulting in loss of contrast). A slight

    reddening of the original indigo shade can also occur. However, careful selection of

    neutral or alkaline cellulases able to function in the pH range 6-8, albeit at higher cost

    and reduced activity compared with acid cellulases (pH 4.5-5.5) can control these

    problems. Now, processors are learning to play more sophisticated tunes such as

    achieving a peach skin finish by use of a combination of stones and neutral cellulase.

    Biostoning was first introduced to the European industry in 1989 and spread to the USA

    in 1990; its application is now global. Uptake by specialist denim garment processors is

    almost 100% and provides an excellent example of how rapidly and completely a

    biotechnology-based process can transform an industry. However, the economic

    advantages of the process are unusually clear cut and directly benefit the immediate user,

    the stonewasher. Initially, consumers noticed little or no difference to the products they

    bought; there was therefore no need to promote and sell the new idea to a wider market.

    This is only just beginning now as the scope of the technology for producing more

    sophisticated finishes emerges. Biopolishing employs basically the same cellulase action

    to remove fine surface fuzz and fibrils from cotton and viscose fabrics. The polishing

    action thus achieved helps to eliminate pilling and provides better print definition, colour

    brightness, surface texture, drapeability and softness without any loss of absorbency.

    Biopolishing can be used to clean up the fabric surface after the primary fibrillation of a

    peach skin treatment and prior to a secondary fibrillation process which imparts

    interesting fabric aesthetics. Both batch and continuous processes can be employed as

    long as there is some degree of mechanical action to detach the weakened fibers. One

    area that still poses problems is that of tubular cotton finishing. Here the fiber residues

    tend to be trapped inside the fabric rather than washed away. The technology was first

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    developed in Japan as far back as 1988 and used for softening and smoothing of cotton

    fabrics without the application of other chemicals; it was also used to upgrade ramie as a

    cotton and linen substitute, and to upgrade lower qualities of cotton.

    BIOFINASE NC-400 functions at concentrations from 0.4% to 0.8% owg. 3.BIOFINASE NC-400 is for use in specialty denim processing in combination with or

    without pumice stones. Directions for Use 1) Add water for cellulase step at a liquor ratio

    of 6.1 to 10:1. 2) The water level should be just enough to cover the garments and be

    below wheel rib. This Enzyme delivers minimum back staining when used with or

    without Pumice Stones.

    Non-ecofriendly chemical. Sodium hypochlorite /potassium permanganate

    (applied on pumice stones )

    Hazards The substance decomposes on heating to 200C,

    producing toxic and corrosive fumes, causing fire and

    explosion hazard.

    The substance is a strong oxidant and reacts violently with

    combustible and reducing materials. Reacts violently with

    acids,ammonium compounds, phosphorus, sulfur, sodium

    dithionate,causing explosion hazard. Sore throat; Skin

    Redness; EyesRedness

    Eco- substitute1)Acid cellulase enzyme (biofade )

    2) Neutral cellulose.

    3) BIOFINASE NC-400 is an Enzyme system which is

    primarily CelloBioHydrolase & Endogluconase activity

    along with other side activities.

    Remarks 1) Excellent grain effect.

    2) Stone wash look with small grain patterns.

    3) This Enzyme delivers minimum back staining when

    used with or without Pumice Stones.

    Soil Release agents

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    Soil release is the term used for a finish with hydrophilic character which allows

    the soil to penetrate the fabric during wear but comes into action during washing when its

    special functional groups transfer the soil from the fabric to the wash liquor. Soil

    repellent or anti soiling agents envelope the fiber surface so that the soil matter sticks

    very loosely to it. 17 Soil release agents remove soil from the fabric and transfer it to the

    detergent. The main factors affecting the soiling are textile structure electrostatic charge

    moisture regain of the fiber and the particle size.

    Examples: acid acrylates, ethoxylated alkyl phenols, flourochemicals, substituted

    polyehtylene and polypropylene glycols etc. 18

    Non ecofriendly chemical. Ethoxylated alkyl phenolsHazards Add to the water pollution

    Eco- substitute Flurochemicals

    Remarks Gives both stain and soil repellant

    properties, stable to laundering and dry

    cleaning.

    Flame retardants

    Fire retardancy involves the disruption of the burning process so that it is terminated

    within an acceptable time period. In designing polymeric flame-retardant, three

    approaches can be adopted:

    1. Designing the basic polymer so that exposure to heat and oxygen will not produce

    combustion. This requires thermally stable polymers with high decomposition

    temperatures. 19

    2. Transforming the existing polymer with either chlorination or substitution or Polyol.

    (This category is called the reactive type flame-retardant.) 20

    3. Adding either inorganic salts or organic compounds so that the polymer performs

    satisfactorily when exposed to fire. (This category is called the additive type flame

    retardants). Silicone is considered a universal additive to improve the flammability

    properties of polymers. The uniqueness of silicon flame-retardant is that the hydrogen

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    chloride formed in the combustion zone immediately takes part in flame inhibition and is

    thus very effective. Flammability of a large number of materials is reduced in the

    presence relatively small concentrations of silica gel and potassium carbonate. 23,8

    Flame-retardant finishing has become more and more important and is compulsory for

    some articles. Flame-retardant treatments should protect the fiber from burning, without

    modifying the handle, the color or the look of the fabric. 21

    They are generally applied to cotton and synthetic fibers (e.g. they are important in the

    furniture sector for upholstery fabric). In some specific cases, in particular in the carpet

    sector (e.g. contract market, aviation), they can also be required for wool, even though

    this fiber is already inherently flame resistant. Flame-retardant properties are achieved by

    the application of a wide range of chemicals, which either react with the textile or are

    used as additives. 22

    Non ecofriendly chemical. Organo-phosphorous and Polybrominated

    organic compounds

    Halogenated hydrocarbons

    Hazards Possibly carcinogenic.

    Allergic substances

    Eco- substitute Inorganic salts and phosphonates

    Remarks Compatible results are obtained

    Conclusion

    Textile wet processing industry being the chief cause of pollution needs to be looked

    carefully from ecological point of view. Many hazardous chemicals are being used in the

    processing mainly because of easy availability, weaker pollution prevention laws,

    economy and sometimes lack of awareness. The important aspect, which is mostly

    forgotten, is the environment. Such chemicals are harmful to the consumers as well as the

    workforce in the industry, which is in the closest vicinity.

    Eco-substitutes for these chemicals will not only help the consumer but also the

    society, which is directly, affected by it. Also a close look at workers safety should be

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    given, since they are the first who get affected by any immediate exposure. Some

    substitutes are even better and economical as far as their precursors are concerned. Hence

    use of such products should not be delayed. From environment and ecological point of

    view the use of enzymes also serve as substitutes, especially for preparatory process.

    These eco-friendly auxiliaries however are difficult to imply because of technical and

    cost issues. But the latest technologies as well as the impetus for environment care will

    definitely make these substitutes grand success. The motto of the textile process should

    then be substitution is better than cure ".

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    17) Jones David, European patent 1325164. (2002)

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