Design Activity 4 Design Clothing.ppt - Texas Tech … 1301/ADM1301 Wk9/Design...Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238)

Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing

Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238)

Design Activity 4‐2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251)

Design Activity 4‐3: •Your own design

SkirtsThe four basic skirt shapesVariations in straight skirtsKinds of pleated skirts

The four basic skirt shapes• Straight skirts• Flared skirts▫ Wider at the hem, flaring from a slim waist)• Pegged skirts▫ Tapered at the hem• Circular (very flared)

Straight skirts• The side seams of a straight skirt are aligned with the straight grain of the fabric

• The cross‐grain runs across the hips from side seam to side seam.

• Drops is removed with darts or gathers.▫ Drops (= Difference between the

size of the hip and the waist)

Variations of the Straight Skirts• Gored sheath• Gathered skirt

Variations of the Straight Skirts• Pleated skirt▫ Knife pleat▫ Box pleat▫ Accordion pleat▫ Engineered pleat

Variations of the Straight Skirts• Sheath (basic)▫ With 4 darts• Drindl▫ Can have a minimum amount of ease with a slim silhouette or drop is eased into the waistband.

Flared (Gored) Skirt• Flared skirts▫ Wider at the hem• Gored skirts• Trumpet Gore

Variations of the Flared Skirts• Flared skirts▫ Wider at the hem• Gored skirts• Trumpet Gore

Pegged (Draped) Skirt• Pegged skirts▫ Wide hips▫ Tapered at the hem▫ Slender look, if tapered slightly.

Variations of the Pegged Skirts• Pegged skirts▫ Wide hips▫ Tapered at the hem▫ Slender look, if tapered slightly.

• Sarong▫ Popular in late 1940s.• Harem skirt (= Pouf)

Circular Skirt• Circular skirts▫ Very wide fabric is required.▫ Dramatic effect

Variations of the Circular Skirts• Circular skirts▫ Very wide fabric is required.▫ Dramatic effect

Bodices• “Bodices” is the part of the garment that covers the body from the waist up.▫ 2 Front darts▫ 2 Back darts▫ A fisheye dart (= double ended dart)

Darts• Darts:▫ The darts in a bodice make flat fabric fit the 3 D dress form and the human body.

• Multiple‐Darted bodice▫ Either darts or tucks

• The basic bodice pattern can be manipulated to form many bodice variations.

Gathered and Yoked bodices• Gathered (Eased) bodices• Yoked bodices (Horizontal bodice)

Gored bodices• Gored bodices (Vertical divisions)





Sleeves• Sleeves are the primary component of the bodice. • Categories of sleeves▫ Set‐In Sleeves▫ Sleeves that are cut in one piece with the bodice or that incorporate part of the bodice into the sleeve.

Set-In sleeve

Sleeve cut in one piece

Sleeves• Set‐In Sleeve

Cap

Underarmseam

Front Balance point (1 notch)

BackBalance point (2 notches)

Wrist

Elbow dart

Shoulder seam

Set‐In Sleeves• Raised armhole• Lowered armhole seam• Dropped under armscye seam.

Set‐In Sleeves• Bishop sleeve• Puff sleeve variations

▫ Ease added to any area of the sleeve to achieve different effects.

Bishop sleeve

Puff sleeves

Set‐In Sleeves• Padded Sleeves▫ Dramatically change the silhouette of the garment by lifting the shoulder and sleeve area

▫ Set‐In sleeve padded with a wedge‐shaped pad.

▫ Dolman padded with a rounded pad.

Sleeves Incorporating Part of the Bodice

• Raglan Sleeve▫ Separate from the bodice and has an underarm seam

Sleeves Incorporating Part of the Bodice

• Kimono and Dolman Sleeves▫ Cut in one piece with the bodice, or they incorporate part of the bodice into the sleeve.

Sleeve lengthsCap sleeve

¾ sleeve

wrist sleeve

Short sleeve

Elbow





Classic Top Styling

Cossack, Shirt dress, Top tank, Surplice

Peasant, Halter, Bolero, Bare Midriff

Traditional Dress Construction• Horizontal divisions▫ Low hipline▫ Natural waist▫ Empire line▫ Shoulder yoke

Traditional Dress Construction• No horizontal divisions▫ Princess‐line dress▫ The shift (loose fit)▫ Tent (= A‐line dress)

Sportswear• Active sportswear▫ Worn for playing physical sports.▫ Function is important.▫ Less influenced by fashion.• Spectator sportswear▫ Separates worn for informal occasions that are not sports specific.

▫ A casual life style.▫ Examples: the denim jeans, cotton shirts of cowboy.

History of Pants and Sportswear• Bloomers in the 1850s▫ Bicycling pants

• In 1909▫ Paul Poiret introduced harem pants, separate skirts and blouses.

• World War I▫ Coco Chanel, Yachting pants in 1920.

• World War II• During the 1960s▫ Denim jeans and pants were popular.

Various Pants Length

Merchandising Sportswear• Items

▫ Garments sold as separate units.• Separates

▫ Garments are unusual enough in design to be purchased single.

▫ Generally fit into a group of styles that can be worn together and are made of complementary fabrics.

• Coordinates▫ A closely developed group of

garments, carefully linked by color or detailing.

Sportswear Categories• Junior sportswear▫ More item oriented.▫ Less expensive, experiment design.

• Missy sportswear▫ Tends to be conservative

• Contemporary sportswear (=Bridge)▫ Less expensive than designer.▫ More innovated than moderate sportswear.▫ Examples: Dana Buchman, Ellen Tracy

• Designer▫ Expensive▫ Examples: Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren.

Swimwear• Swimwear is produced for 2 seasons a year. ▫ The preview line: Early spring

▫ The primary season: Spring/Summer (Cruise)

• Market research▫ Analyzing figure types▫ Working with swimsuit bodies that flatter the figure.


Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants

Design Activity 4‐2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline


Documents

Design Activity 4 Design Clothing.ppt - Texas Tech … 1301/ADM1301 Wk9/Design...Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238)