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62 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA | 63
Words & images: Fiona Harper
There are really only two ways to do the Savannah Way. Straddling the continent between Broome in
the west and Cairns in the east, it’s an iconic road trip right up there alongside notables such as Victoria’s Great Ocean Road or West Australia’s Cape to Cape. Being so vast and isolated in spots it’s best to break it down into manageable sections.
Despite its remoteness, or perhaps because of it, it’s an extraordinary outback adventure. Not to mention the bragging rights that come from such an epic escapade.
You could drive the Savannah Way as most people do. But why follow the crowd? Why not ride it instead? We’re not talking motor bikes here, we’re talking good old fashioned, pedal-powered bicycles.
The best (and safest) way to cycle Queensland’s Cape York section between the Coral Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria is to join the annual Cairns to Karumba Bike Ride (C2K). Which is how I find myself alongside 170 cyclists riding out of Cairns at dawn, bound for Karumba 780 km to the west.
For hard-core long distance cyclists the Savannah Way is an alluringly crazy challenge. With road trains the length of 10 cars or more on a highway that is often little more than a goat track, it’s not the sort
of ride you’d tackle on a café-latte training regime.
The first C2K ride in 1996 was created as a fundraiser for the Cairns School of Distance Education. It’s since expanded to support children living in remote rural areas of north Queensland. Almost one million dollars have been donated in the intervening years with bush kids and their education needs being the biggest beneficiary. Remote communities who benefit from donated funds roll out the red carpet as the C2K circus passes through town.
I’ve roped my mum in as support crew to drive our plush four-berth ‘mother ship’ Euro Tourer from Apollo Campers. It’s got all the bells and whistles. Think hot shower, flushing toilet, decent-sized fridge, oven and cooktop and, most importantly, two super comfortable double beds.
Mum is also volunteering as part of the catering crew tasked with feeding hungry riders and support crews. Between shifts she’s packing up camp each day, driving to the next stop and setting up camp again. Riders arrive in various stages of exhaustion and filth, particularly the mountain bikers who are known as dirty boys for good reason.
Atherton TablelandsLeaving Cairns, the Kennedy Highway
twists and turns through the Kuranda Range, popping out of the rainforest onto rolling hills and farmland of the Atherton Tablelands. At almost 900 metres above sea level, skilled riders at the head of the pack ascend ever so slowly while others board the bus up the Kuranda Range Road. Dirty boys follow an old rail trail to Mareeba Wetlands before riding into Northcote Station. Riders and support crews re-group in Atherton, camping at the BIG4 Atherton Woodlands Tourist Park. A relative metropolis (population 7300) compared to towns further west, Atherton offers a fine opportunity to stock up on produce that the Tablelands are famous for, like avocados, corn, mangoes, bananas, macadamias and coffee.
RavenshoeHerberton Historic Village is a cracker of a museum that is styled as a historic village with a gazillion fascinating exhibits. Further on, the soothingly warm waters of Innot Hot Springs would be an ideal place to soak weary legs but there’s plenty of kilometres to go and a schedule to keep so riders carry on while support crews linger. Queensland’s most elevated town awaits, Ravenshoe (pronounced Ravens-hoe, like no, not Raven-shoe like new. Get it?). Rainforest thrives at this elevation, so does the wind so it’s a handy spot to position Queensland’s largest wind farm.
Clockwise from far left:Supporters and volunteers are the backbone of this community – it wouldn’t happen without their dedication and support! Vast open spaces sum up the landscape as riders and supporters move westwards. Road riders followed the bitumen for 780 km between Cairns and Karumba. The Gulflander historic train runs between Croydon and Normanton.
Campers and cyclists enjoy the Savannah Way in equal measure on the annual Cairns
to Karumba Bike Ride.
CyclingAN EPIC RIDE ACROSS CAPE YORK
The Savannah Way
62 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA
64 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA | 65
Mt GarnetBy now lush wet tropics rainforest have been left behind and the landscape starts opening out into savannah country. Eucalypts, low scrub and gravelly soil prevail; the sort of landscape that has hosted historic gold rushes. Mt Garnet’s name is a dead-set giveaway in relation to its origins. A former mining town, streets are named after the minerals (tin, copper, zinc and you guessed it, garnet) that encouraged early settlement. We camp out at Mt Garnet Rodeo Grounds where squatter-like huts provide shelter for those roughing it in tents.
Mt Surprise Support crew take the opportunity to visit Undarra Volcanic National Park where there is one of Earth’s longest lava flows from a single volcanic eruption almost 200,000 years ago. Rainforest and wildlife thrive in underground Undarra Lava Tubes, which is one of the longest lava tube cave systems in the world.
The population of Mt Surprise is more than doubled with the arrival of 200-odd C2K riders and supporters, which delights the publican as we camp out in the paddock behind the Mt Surprise Hotel.
GeorgetownGeorgetown is a ubiquitous name, no doubt because historically there were a lot of explorer guys named George with a penchant for immortalisation. There are at least four Georgetowns in Australia and no less than 65 globally (USA takes a bow, they’ve got at least 44 of them). Georgetown, Queensland doesn’t stake too many claims to fame, but it can take credit for a number of notable mentions in Nevil Shute’s novel A Town like Alice.
CroydonOnce the centre of a gold rush, Croydon was bursting at the seams with more than 7000 residents in the late 1880s. Things are a little more sedate these days with just 300 residents residing in a veritable living museum with restored heritage-listed buildings everywhere you look.
Croydon is one of two stops for the Gulflander train, famous for being a historic train that goes from nowhere to nowhere (the terminus being Normanton). But that’s a bit harsh – even if you’re not a train spotter it’s worth hopping on board to savour some history. Croydon rodeo grounds provide one of the best camp sites on the entire ride with plush green grass and shady trees. We plug
the ‘mother ship’ in to a powered site and could’ve happily spent a few days there!
NormantonHome of big things like Krys the Croc and the Big Barramundi as well as the famous Purple Pub, Normanton needs little introduction. Krystina Pawlowska shot an 8.6 metre (think about it – that’s about the same size as an adult giraffe) saltwater crocodile that has been replicated in actual size. Riders descend on Krys for the annual photo bombing opportunity en route to the pub before camping out at Normanton rodeo grounds.
KarumbaHigh fives and tears, hot chips and beers, there’s both jubilation and relief at the Sunset Tavern on Karumba’s waterfront. Seven days, 780 kilometres and with almost $100,000 raised, this is an epic ride. But, perhaps what makes it really special is that it’s not just for cyclists. It’s hard to determine who has more fun, the supporters or the riders! Billed as a Bucket List Ride on the Savannah Way, it fully lives up to expectations.
FACT FILE
Getting thereThe C2K Ride starts from the Cairns Esplanade and finishes 7 days later on the shore of Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria. For more details visit www.ridefnq.com
Where to campGroup campsites are pre-booked and vary between caravan parks with facilities such as grass tent sites, swimming pool, bike wash down area and well-appointed eco cabins like BIG4 Woodlands Caravan Park. Others, like Normanton rodeo grounds, are far more basic.
When to go The 2016 ride is from 25 June 2016 to 1 July 2016.
Further information Apollo Campers Cairns have campervans ranging from two person budget through to six person luxury campervans. Visit www.apollocamper.com
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GROOTE EYLANDT
FRASER ISLAND
MORNINGTONISLAND
Hinchinbrook Island
Vanderlin Island
Moa (Clarke) I
Bribie Island
Marchinbar Island
Bentinck Island
Badu (Mulgrave) I
Prince Of Wales(Muralag) I
Saibai I
North Stradbroke Island
Raragala Island
Boigu I
Townshend Island
Magnetic Island
Great Palm Island
Great Keppel Island
Mabuiag I
Maria Island
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Moreton Island
North Island
Guluwuru Island
Hayman IslandGloucester Island
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Bremer Island
South Stradbroke I
Scawfell Island
Lizard Island
Dunk Island
Heron Island
Lloyd Bay
HERVEYBAY
Temple Bay
ArnhemBay
HALIFAX BAY
BROAD SOUND
Caledon Bay
Port Clinton
Weymouth Bay
LIMMEN BIGHT
MelvilleBay Port Musgrave
ALBATROSS BAY
Port Bradshaw
ShelburneBay
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Rockingham Bay
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Bowling Green Bay
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Cape York
Hay Point
Cape Byron
Sandy Cape
Cape Arnhem
Waddy Point
Abbot Point
Cape Moreton
Cape Clinton
Duyfken Point
Cape Beatrice
Cape Keerweer
Cape Flattery
Lookout Point
Cape Melville
Cape Direction
Cape Grenville
Cape Wilberforce
Upsta
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Saraji
Keppel Bay
Port Curtis
CURTIS CHANNEL
Horn (Narupai) I
Milyakburra
Cape Tribulation
MtRobe
Mt Norna
Mt Abbot
Mt Elliot
Mt Walker
Mt Hutton
Bald Hill
Mt Carter
Mt WilliamMt Hogarth
Mt Stewart
Mt Halifax
Mt Drummond
Mt Tabletop
Mt Drummond
Mt Finnigan
St Mary Peak
Consuelo PeakThree Sisters
Thornton Peak
Round MtnMt Booroondarra
Kerrs Table Mount
Bairds Table Mount
Bartle Frere
Mt Unbunmaroo(Black Mount)
Freeling Heights
Haddon Corner
Cameron Corner
Poeppel Corner
C H A N N E L C O U N T R Y
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Nelia
GumluClare
Laura
Tilpa
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Hebel
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Comet
Wowan
Louth
Yaraka
Yetman
Marree
Anakie
Malbon
Quamby
Dalbeg
Morven
JundahBanana
Yaamba
Kynuna
Moomba
Bollon
Cracow
Moonie
Paluma
Ogmore
Byrock
Rowena
Carinda
Mingela
Dulacca
Adavale
Kinrola
Koumala
Duchess
Gilliat
Prairie
Bellata
Bonshaw
Thallon
Wyandra
Cheepie
Callide
Jericho
Morella
Carmila
Almaden
Pilliga
Beltana
Betoota
Kajabbi
Blinman
Kidston
Dajarra
CooladdiWestgate Guluguba
Yandaran
Newlands
Quambone
Enngonia
Isisford
Yalleroi
Corfield
Stamford
Forsayth
Daintree
Bedourie
McKinlay
Coolabah
Eromanga
Toompine
CoolataiCumborah
Windorah
Gwabegar
Nymboida
Pentland
Arrilalah
Goonyella
Maxwelton
Blackbull
Wanaaring
Rolleston
Port Alma
Middleton
Woodstock
Chillagoe
Urandangi
Greenvale
Condamine
Baryulgil
Meandarra
Lyndhurst
Gunpowder
Innamincka
Coppabella
Ravenswood
Hungerford
Nindigully
Kumbarilla
Glenmorgan
Mungallala
Stonehenge
Ilfracombe
Einasleigh
Birdsville
Burramurra
Yantabulla
Muttaburra
Abergowrie
Elura Mine
Parachilna
Tibooburra
Marlborough
Bogantungan
Mount Perry
St LawrenceBlair Athol
Mount Molloy
Weilmoringle
BalfesCreek
Fords Bridge
Torrens Creek
Gilbert River
Phosphate Hill
Mount Surprise
Lakeland
Burren Junction
SouthBlackwater
Olympic Dam
Captain Billy Landing
Andoom
Bambaroo
Homestead
Mount Coolon
GOWAN RA
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Whitsunday Group
WELLESLEY ISLANDS
CUMBERLAND ISLANDS
SIR EDWARD PELLEW GROUP
Lindeman Group
TORRES STRAIT
CAPE YORKPENINSULA
GOVEPENINSULA
ENDEAVOUR STR
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Flinders Group
Capricorn Group
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DARLING DOWNS
TIRARI DESERT
S I M P S O N D E S E R T
T A B L E L A N D
S T R Z E L E C K I
D E S E R T
S T U R T S T O N Y D E S E R T
Q U E E N S L A N D
Buckingham Bay
Port L
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Cumberland Channel
CAPRICORN CHANNEL
B A R K L Y
Isle Woodah
Bick
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Centre I
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Mulka
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Kimba
Cobham
Marqua
Waitan
Yakara
Teilta
Tilcha
Lerida
Iffley
Almora
Dunbar
Durrie
Soudan
Rokeby
Leumeah
Cowarie
Westlea
Retreat
Monkira
Jervois
Corinda
Barenya
UndillaCanobie
Vanrook
Clayton
LongtonTarbrax
Bulimba
Benmara
Merluna
Mahanewo
Tartulla
Koolatah
Yarrawin
Ranken
Caiwarro
Naryilco
Orientos
Trinidad
Glengyle
Surbiton
Cassilis
AnnitowaGeorgina
Downs
Burleigh
Morstone
Lorraine
Wondoola
Bowthorn Barwidgi
Inkerman
Etadunna
Humeburn
Arrabury
Eastmere
Wambiana
Lolworth
Toolebuc
Highbury
Drumduff
Yarraden
Bramwell
Innisvale
Arkaroola
Fort GreyBundaleer
Tobermory
Thylungra
Palparara Nandowrie
Connemara
Vergemont Peak Vale
Aberfoyle
Kamileroi
EsmeraldaRobinhood
Mittiebah
Lawn Hill
Bing Bong
Woolerina
Curnamona
Yancannia
Ambathala
Collabara
Lake Nash
Lyndhurst
Gallipoli
Seven Emu
Lakefield
Avon Downs
Tobermorey
Frankfield
Yelvertoft
Mootwingee
Nockatunga
Castlevale
Warbreccan
Coorabulka
Springvale
Lucy Creek
Ooratippra
Thorntonia
Claraville
Inverleigh Strathmore
Murnpeowie
Currawilla
YarrowmereChatsworth
Carandotta
Dalgonally
Wando Vale
Meadowbank
Armraynald
Alexandria
Strathburn
Moolawatana
Murra Murra
Durrandella
Breadalbane
Argadargada
Numil Downs
Riversleigh
Donors Hill
Delta Downs
TiltagoonahMulyungarie
Frome Downs
Moray Downs
Natal Downs
Malbon Vale
Saxby Downs
Bluff Downs
Maggieville
Wollogorang
MallapunyahSprings
Strathhaven
Violet Vale
Border Downs
Shelburne Bay
Mount Douglas
Thurloo Downs
Millers Creek
DynevorDowns
Clifton Hills
Pandie Pandie Keeroongooloo
Tarlton Downs
GregoryDowns
Saltbush Park
Austral Downs
Miranda Downs
Calvert Hills
Marina Plains
Batavia Downs
Lorella Spring
Mount Margaret
Kangaroo Hills
Abingdon Downs
Rutland Plains
Cordillo Downs
Mount Sturgeon
Chudleigh Park
Mount MulgraveMcArthur River
DavenportDowns
Mount Lyndhurst
Cresswell Downs
MountRavenswood
Diamantina Lakes
Roxborough Downs
Buckingham Downs
Mount Elsie
Augustus Downs
Mount Mulyah
Bulloo Downs
Galway Downs
Marion Downs
Glenormiston
Strathfillan
Nappa Merrie
Durham Downs
Mount Howitt
Barkly Downs
Westmoreland
Wrotham Park
Tara
Bell
Weipa
Miles
Tieri
Guyra
Urunga
Sarina
Bourke
Kyogle
Wondai
Howard
Aramac
Winton
Boulia
Cooroy
Wandoan
Capella
Gayndah
Wee Waa
Quilpie
Mossman
Clifton
Bonalbo
Ashford
Woomera
Baradine
Jandowae
Mitchell
Eidsvold
Theodore
Richmond
Silkwood
Dimbulah
Emu Park
Warialda
Wallumbilla
Bellingen
St George
Longreach
Gracemere
Cloncurry
Home Hill
Umbakumba
Numbulwar
Hope ValeKowanyama
Andamooka
Woolgoolga
Augathella
Barcaldine
Georgetown
Pormpuraaw
Dirranbandi
Tin Can Bay
Julia Creek
Roxby Downs
Collarenebri
White Cliffs
Esk
Giru
Oakey
Tambo
Bluff
Tiaro
Surat
Monto
Moura
Alpha
Tully
Texas
Iluka
Boonah
Uralla
Kilcoy
Yuleba
Injune
Taroom
Dysart
Marian
Ingham
Bamaga
Murgon
Tingha
Goondiwindi
Bingara
Babinda
Attunga
Manilla
Walgett
Glenden
Halifax
Croydon
Karumba
Aurukun
Gin Gin
Proston
Nanango
Maclean
Dorrigo
Barraba
Cardwell
Delungra
Thangool
Boggabri
NarrabriBundarra
Goodooga MungindiYelarbon
BlackallCalliope
Duaringa
Clermont
Seaforth
Cooktown
Yirrkala
Angurugu
Rubyvale
Baralaba
Childers
Yarraman
Jimboomba
Biggenden
Wilcannia
Coonamble
Bendemeer
Glenreagh
InglewoodKillarney
Hughenden
Normanton
Camooweal
Doomadgee
Goondiwindi
Nhulunbuy
Alyangula
HerbertonRavenshoe
Burketown
Springsure
Brewarrina Evans Head
Stanthorpe
Cunnamulla
Beaudesert
Millmerran
Pittsworth
Blackwater
Walkerston
Proserpine
Gordonvale
Borroloola
Woorabinda
Mundubbera
CrowsNest
Wallangarra
Leigh Creek
Mullumbimby
Charleville
Miriam Vale
Palm Island
Middlemount
AlstonvilleTenterfield
Mount Morgan
Finch Hatton
Ocean Shores
Thargomindah
Cecil Plains
Mount Larcom
Airlie Beach
Mount Garnet
Collinsville
Tannum Sands
Mission Beach
Lockhart River
Thursday Island
Hamilton Island
Lightning Ridge
Nambour
Ballina
Bargara
Ayr
Roma
Bowen
GoondiwindiTalwoodToobeah
Chinchilla
Deepwater
Bushland Beach
Moree
Dalby
Yamba
Casino
Gatton
Gympie
Grafton
Warwick
Biloela
Emerald Yeppoon
Mareeba
SawtellGunnedah
Armidale
Inverell
Bongaree
Kingaroy
Deeragun
Atherton
Moranbah
Byron Bay
Innisfail
Mount Isa
Caboolture
Glen Innes
Maryborough
Murwillumbah
Port DouglasTrinity Beach
ChartersTowers
BUNDABERG
MACKAY
CAIRNS
LISMORE
GLADSTONE
CALOUNDRA
HERVEY BAY
ROCKHAMPTON
COFFS HARBOUR
NOOSA HEADS
TOOWOOMBA
MAROOCHYDORE
Deepwater
Deepwater
TOWNSVILLE
TWEED HEADS
IPSWICH
GOLD COAST
BRISBANE
Alpurrurulam
Wujal Wujal
Balgal Beach
Midge Point
Byfield
Agnes Water
Gununa
Misima I
LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO
D'ENTRECASTEAUX ISLAN
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Normanby I
P A P U A N E W G U I N E A
Cairns
Karumba
64 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA
© C
om
mo
nwealth o
f Australia (G
eoscience A
ustralia) 2012
Top to bottom:Cattle stations provided their own hazards with cattle reluctant to give way to riders or support drivers. The famous Purple Pub at Normanton is a highlight of the Savannah Way.
(03) 9466 2553 | [email protected] | www.gripsport.com.au
For cars, 4WDs, caravans, campers & trailers
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