Croatia 5 Dubrovnik Southern Dalmatia

8/10/2019 Croatia 5 Dubrovnik Southern Dalmatia

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DUBROVNIKpop 45,800 Regardless of whether you are visitingDubrovnik for the first time or youre return-ing again and again to this marvellous city, thesense of awe and beauty when you set eyes onthe Stradun never fades. Its hard to imagineanyone, even the citys inhabitants, becoming jaded by its marble streets and baroque build-ings, or failing to be inspired by a walk alongthe ancient city walls that once protected acivilised sophisticated republic for five centu-ries, and that now look out onto the endlessshimmer of the peaceful Adriatic.

Although the shelling of Dubrovnik in1991 horrified the world, the city has bouncedback with characteristic vigour to again en-chant its visitors. The hedonistic can pamperthemselves in one of the citys fine hotelsor enjoy a refreshing plunge into the sea.History buffs can trace the rise and fall ofDubrovniks commercial empire in muse-ums replete with art and artefacts. A localsymphony orchestra and a busy concert sea-son delight music-lovers. Whether its the

relaxed Mediterranean lifestyle, the interplayof light and stone, the fresh sea breezes or theremarkable history, Dubrovnik is suffusedwith an ineffable magic that makes it one ofthe worlds great destinations.

HISTORYThe story of Dubrovnik begins with the 7th-century onslaught of barbarians that wipedout the Roman city of Epidaurum (site ofpresent-day Cavtat). The residents fled tothe safest place they could find, which wasa rocky islet separated from the mainland bya narrow channel. Building walls was a mat-ter of pressing urgency due to the barbarianinvasions; the city was well fortified by the9th century when it resisted a Saracen siegefor 15 months.

Ragusa had help from the powerfulByzantine Empire, under whose protectionit remained from the 7th to the 12th century.Meanwhile, another settlement emerged onthe mainland, stretching from Zaton in thenorth to Cavtat in the south, and becameknown as Dubrovnik, named after thedu-brava (holm oak) that carpeted the region.

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lone lyplane t . com DUBROVNIK Orientat ion

The two settlements merged in the 12th cen-tury, and the channel that separated them waspaved over to become Placa.

By the end of the 12th century, Dubrovnikhad become an important trading centre onthe coast, providing an important link be-

tween the Mediterranean and Balkan states.From the hinterlands, cattle and dairy prod-ucts, wax, honey, timber, coal, silver, lead,copper and slaves were exported, along withDubrovnik products such as salt, cloth, wine,oil and fish.

Dubrovnik came under Venetian author-ity in 1205, finally breaking away from itscontrol in 1358. Although the city thereafteracknowledged the authority of the Croatian-

Hungarian kings and paid them tribute, itwas largely left alone to do what it did best make money.

By the 15th century the RespublicaRagusina (Republic of Ragusa) had extendedits borders to include the entire coastal beltfrom Ston to Cavtat, having previously ac-quired Lastovo Island, the Peljeac Peninsulaand Mljet Island. It was now a force to be reck-oned with. The city turned towards sea trade

and established a fleet of its own ships, whichwere dispatched to Egypt, Syria, Sicily, Spain,France and later Turkey. Through canny di-plomacy the city maintained good relationswith everyone even the Ottoman Empire,to which Dubrovnik began paying tribute inthe 16th century.

Centuries of peace and prosperity allowedart, science and literature to flourish. MarinDri (150867) was a towering figure inRenaissance literature, best known for hiscomic playDundo Maroje . Ivan Gunduli (15891638) was another Dubrovnik poet-dramatist whose greatest work was the epicOsman. To the world of science, Dubrovnikgave Ruer Bokovi (171187), who pro-duced a seminal work in the field of theo-retical physics, as well as numerous tomeson optics, geography, trigonometry and as-tronomy. Composers, poets, philosophersand painters turned Dubrovnik into a majorcultural centre on the Adriatic.

Tragically, most of the Renaissance art andarchitecture in Dubrovnik was destroyed inthe earthquake of 1667, which killed 5000

people and left the city in ruins, with onlythe Sponza Palace and the Rectors Palacesurviving. The city was rebuilt in a uniformbaroque style with modest dwellings in rowsand shops on the ground floor. The earth-quake also marked the beginning of the eco-nomic decline of the town, accentuated bythe opening of new trade routes to the eastand the emergence of rival naval powers inWestern Europe.

The final coup de grce was dealt byNapoleon whose troops entered Dubrovnikin 1808 and announced the end of the re-public. The Vienna Congress of 1815 cededDubrovnik to Austria, where the city main-tained its shipping but succumbed to socialdisintegration. It remained a part of theAustro-Hungarian Empire until 1918 and thenslowly began to develop its tourism industry.

Caught in the cross-hairs of the war that

ravaged former Yugoslavia, Dubrovnik waspummelled with some 2000 shells in 1991 and1992, suffering considerable damage. All of thedamaged buildings have now been restored.

ORIENTATIONThe city extends about 6km from the mouthof the Rijeka River in the west to the capeof Sveti Jakov in the east, and includes thepromontory of Lapad.

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This leafy residential suburb with rockybeaches contains the hostel and most of thetowns hotels. The old walled town lies south-east of Lapad at the foot of Sr Hill, halfwaybetween Gru Harbour and the cape of SvetiJakov. The entire old town is closed to cars

and is divided nearly in half by the wide streetPlaca, also referred to as Stradun.Pile Gate is the western entrance to the old

town and the last stop for local buses fromLapad and Gru. The eastern gate is Ploe,which leads to the town beach and several lux-ury hotels along Frana Supila. The Jadrolinijaferry terminal and the bus station are a fewhundred metres apart at Gru, which is about2km northwest of the old town. To get to the

old town from the bus station take buses 1a,1b, 3 or 8. To get to Lapad take bus 7.The city boundaries also include the Elafiti

Islands (ipan, Lopud, Koloep, Olipe, Tajanand Jakljan).

INFORMATIONBookshopsAlgebra (Map p264;% 323 217; Placa 9;h 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) Books and souvenirs and souvenir books,

plus English-language guides to the city and region.Algoritam (Map p264;% 322 044; www.algoritam.hr; Placa 8;h 9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) A goodselection of English-language books.

Internet AccessDubrovnik Internet Centar (Map p262;% 311 017;Dubrovakih Branitelja 7; per hr 20KN;h 9am-9pm)Netcaf (Map p264;% 321 125; www.netcafe.hr;Prijeko 21; per hr 30KN;h 9am-11pm) A wonderfully

friendly caf with a fast connection and good servicCD/DVD burning, wi-fi, photo printing and transferand so on.

Left LuggageGarderoba (per day 15KN;h 5.30am-9pm) At the bus

station. Medical ServicesHospital (Map p262;% 431 777; Dr Roka Mieti a)

MoneyYou can change money at any travel agencyor post office. There are numerous ATMsin town, and near the ferry terminal andbus station.

PostBranch post office(Map p262; Dubrovakih Branitelja 2;h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat)Lapad Post Office & Telephone Centre (Map p262;etalite Kralja Zvonimira 21;h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat)Main post office (Map p264; cnr iroka & Od Pua;h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) In the old town.

Tourist Information

Tourist office(www.tzdubrovnik.hr;h 8am-8pmJun-Sep, 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat Oct-Maybusstation (Map p262;% 417 581; Obala Pape Ivana Pavla I44a);Gru Harbour(Map p262;% 417 983; Obala StjepanaRadi a 27);Lapad (Map p262;% 437 460; etalite KraljaZvonimira 25);old town(Map p264;% 323 587; iroka 1);old town 2 (Map p264;% 323 887; Ulica Svetog Dominik7);Pile Gate(Map p264;% 427 591; DubrovakihBranitelja 7) Maps, information and the indispensabDubrovnik Riviera guide.

DUBROVNIK: DESTRUCTION & RECONSTRUCTION

Many remember the incredible TV footage of the shelling of Dubrovnik. Although now in the past,the memory of the citys year at war is still fresh in the minds of locals youll see reminders ofit on the several plaques through the old town.

Shells struck 68% of the 824 buildings in the old town, leaving holes in two out of three tiledroofs. Building facades and the paving stones of streets and squares suffered 314 direct hits andthere were 111 direct hits on the great wall. Nine historic palaces were completely gutted by fire,while the Sponza Palace, Rectors Palace, St Blaises Church, Franciscan Monastery and the carvedfountains, Amerling and Onofrio, sustained serious damage. The total destruction was estimatedat US$10 million. It was quickly decided that the repairs and reconstruction would be done withtraditional techniques, using traditional materials whenever feasible.

Dubrovnik has since regained most of its original grandeur. The great town walls are once againintact, the gleaming marble streets are smoothly paved and famous monuments such as the 15th-century Onofrio Fountain and the Clock Tower have been lovingly restored. Damage to SponzaPalace, Rectors Palace, St Blaises Church, the cathedral and various 17th-century residences hasbeen repaired with the help of an international brigade of specially trained stoneworkers.

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Travel AgenciesAtlas Travel Agency (www.atlas-croatia.com;h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)Gru Harbour(Map p262;% 418 001; Obala Papa Ivana Pavla II 1);Pile Gate(Mapp262;% 442 574; Sv ur a 1) In convenient locations,this agency is extremely useful for general information,excursions and finding private accommodation.

OK Travel & Trade (Map p262;% 418 950; [email protected]; Obala Stjepana Radi a 32;h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Near the Jadrolinija ferry terminal.

SIGHTSThe Old TownDue to its confined space and neat street grid,Dubrovniks old town naturally lends itself toa walking tour. Weve listed points of interestin a logical way here so that you can wander

at your own pace and discover the city atyour leisure.

PILE GATEThe natural starting point to any visit toDubrovnik, this fabulous city gate (Map p264)was built in 1537. Crossing the drawbridge atthe gates entrance, imagine that this was onceactually lifted every evening, the gate closedand the key handed to the prince. Notice thestatue of St Blaise, the citys patron saint, setin a niche over the Renaissance arch. As youpass through the outer gate you come to aninner gate dating from 1460, and soon afteryoure struck by the gorgeous view of themain street,Placa, or as its commonly known,Stradun, Dubrovniks pedestrian promenade. It

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stretches right down to the end of the old townand at its eastern end it widens out intoLuaSquare, formerly used as a marketplace.

ONOFRIO FOUNTAINOne of Dubrovniks most famous land-marks,Onofrio Fountain (Map p264) was builtin 1438 as part of a water-supply system thatinvolved bringing water from a well 12km

away. Originally, the fountain was adornedwith sculpture, but it was heavily damagedin the 1667 earthquake and only 16 carvedmasks remain with water gushing from theirmouths into a drainage pool.

ST SAVIOUR CHURCHThis church (Crkva Svetog Spasa; Map p264; Placa) wasbuilt between 1520 and 1528 and was one ofthe few buildings to have survived the earth-

quake of 1667. Its open for occasional exhibi-tions and concerts.

FRANCISCAN MONASTERY & MUSEUMOver the door of theFranciscan Monastery &Museum (Muzej Franjevakog Samostana; Map p264;% 321410; Placa 2; adult/concession 20/10KN;h 9am-6pm) is aremarkable piet sculpted by the local mas-ters Petar and Leonard Andriji in 1498.Unfortunately, the portal is all that remains of

the richly decorated church that was destroyedin the 1667 earthquake. Inside the monasterycomplex is the mid-14th-centurycloister, oneof the most beautiful late-Romanesque struc-tures in Dalmatia. Notice how each capitalover the dual columns is topped by a differentfigure, portraying human heads, animals andfloral arrangements.

Further inside youll find the third-oldest

functioning pharmacy in Europe, which hasbeen in business since 1391. The pharmacymay have been the first pharmacy in Europeopen to the general public. Before leaving, visit the monastery museum with its collec-tion of relics, liturgical objects, paintings, goldwork and pharmacy items such as laboratorygear and medical books.

WAR PHOTO LIMITED

One of the better photography galleries yourelikely to come across in your gallery life,WarPhoto Limited (Map p264;% 326 166; www.warphotoltd.com; Antuninska 6; admission 30KN;h 9am-9pm May-Sep,10am-4pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct & Apr)has chang-ing exhibitions that are curated by the gal-lery owner and former photojournalist WadeGoddard. The gallery is open from April toOctober and has up to three exhibitions overthat period relating to the subject of war seen

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Buffet Skola...............................

Nishta.......................................Market...................................(see 27)Lokanda Peskarija.....................Kamenice..................................Gil's..........................................Fresh.........................................dub...........................................Defne.....................................(see 35)Chihuahua Cantina Mexicana...

Rooms Viceli..........................Puci Palace............................Karmen Apartments..................Hotel Stari Grad........................Fresh Sheets..............................Apartments Amoret..................

War Photo Limited....................Treasury...................................(see 8)Synagogue...............................State Archives.........................(see 25)St Saviour Church.....................St Ignatius Church.....................St Blaise's Church.....................Sponza Palace...........................

Serbian Orthodox Church &Revelin Fort..............................

Ethnographic Museum..............

Jesuit College.........................(see 27)

Maritime Museum....................

Rector's Palace..........................Ploe Gate................................Pile Gate...................................Orlando Column.......................Onofrio Fountain......................Morning Market.......................Mineta Tower..........................

Little Onofrio Fountain.............

Museum...............................Franciscan Monastery &

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Tourist Office.............................Tourist Office..............................Netcaf.......................................Main Post Office.........................

Dubrovnik Summer Festival....... Museum...............................Dominican Monastery &

Algebra.......................................

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St Blaise's Church...................(see 26)Sloboda Cinema.......................(see 9)

Dubrovnik String Quartet.......(see 28)

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Memorial Room of the Defenders of Dubrovnik......(see 25)

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin................... ........

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from various perspectives. The 2008 season sawRon Havivs powerful and disturbing imagesof the Yugoslav war in Blood & Honey, BruceConnews Myanmar exhibitions On the Wayto An Ambush and Child Soldier, and manyother collections by award-winning interna-tional photographers. Highly recommended.

SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH & MUSEUMDating from 1877, theSerbian Orthodox Church & Museum (Muzej Pravoslavne Crkve; Map p264; % 323283; Od Pua 8; adult/concession 10/5KN;h 9am-2pm Mon-Sat) is a fascinating collection of icons datingfrom the 15th to 19th century. In addition toportraits of the biblical family originating inCrete, Italy, Russia and Slovenia, there areseveral portraits by the illustrious Croatianpainter Vlaho Bukovac.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUMSitting in the 16th-century Rupe Granary, theEthnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej; Map p264;% 323 013; Od Rupa; adult/student 35/15KN;h 9am-2pmSun-Fri) contains exhibits relating to agricultureand local customs.

SYNAGOGUEThe oldest Sephardic and second-oldestsynagogue (Sinagoga; Map p264; % 321 028; udioska5; admission 10KN;h 10am-8pm Jun-Sep, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) in Europe dates back to the 15thcentury. Inside is a museum that exhibitsreligious relics, documentation on the localJewish population and WWII remains.

ORLANDO COLUMNThe Orlando Column (Rolands Column; Mapp264) is a popular meeting place that used tobe the place where edicts, festivities and public verdicts were announced. Carved in 1417, theforearm of this medieval knight was the of-ficial linear measure of the Republic the ellof Dubrovnik, which measures 51.1cm.

CLOCK TOWER

The Clock Tower (Map p264) dominates LuaSq and makes an elegant punctuation pointat the end of Placa. First built in 1444, it wasrestored many times, most recently in 1929,and is notable for the two bronze figures inthe bell tower that ring out the hours.

SPONZA PALACEThe 16th-century Sponza Palace (Map p264)was originally a customs house, then a minting

house, a state treasury and a bank. Now ithouses theState Archives (Dravni Arhiv u Dubrovnik% 321 032; admission 15KN;h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 1pmSat), which contain a priceless collection ofmanuscripts dating back nearly a thousandyears. This superb structure is a mixture ofGothic and Renaissance styles beginning withan exquisite Renaissance portico resting onsix columns. The 1st floor has late-Gothicwindows and the 2nd-floor windows are in aRenaissance style, with an alcove containing astatue of St Vlaho. Also inside is theMemorialRoom of the Defenders of Dubrovnik(h 10am-10pmMon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat), a heartbreaking collectionof portraits of young people who perishedbetween 1991 and 1995.LITTLE ONOFRIO FOUNTAINOn Lua Sq, thisfountain (Map p264) is partof the same water project as its larger cousinto the west. It was built to supply water to thesquares marketplace.

ST BLAISES CHURCHThis imposingchurch (Crkva Svetog Vlahe; Map p26;Lua Sq;h morning & late-afternoon Mass Mon-Sat) is oneof Dubrovniks most prominent. Built in 1715to replace an earlier church destroyed in theearthquake, it was constructed in a baroquestyle following the church of St Mauritius inVenice. The ornate exterior contrasts stronglywith the sober residences surrounding it. Theinterior is notable for its marble altars anda 15th-century silver gilt statue of the cityspatron, St Blaise, who is holding a scale model

of pre-earthquake Dubrovnik.RECTORS PALACEThe Gothic-RenaissanceRectors Palace (Mapp264; % 321 437; Pred Dvorom 3; adult/student 35/1audio guide 30KN;h 9am-6pm) was built in the late15th century and adorned with outstandingsculptural ornamentation. It retains a strik-ing compositional unity despite being rebuiltmany times. Notice the finely carved capitals

and the ornate staircase in the atrium, whichis often used for concerts during the SummerFestival (p268). Also in the atrium is a statueof Miho Pracat, who bequeathed his wealthto the Republic and was the only commonerin the 1000 years of the Republics existenceto be honoured with a statue (1638). Wemay assume that the bequest was consider-able. The palace was built for the rector whogoverned Dubrovnik, and it contains the

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rectors office, his private chambers, publichalls and administrative offices. Interestingly,the elected rector was not permitted to leavethe building during his one-month term with-out the permission of the senate. Today thepalace has been turned into amuseum withartfully restored rooms, portraits, coats ofarms and coins, evoking the glorious historyof Dubrovnik.

CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION OFTHE VIRGINBuilt on the site of a 7th-century basilicathat was enlarged in the 12th century, theCathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin (StolnaCrkva Velike Gospe; Map p264; Poljana M Dri a;h morning& late-afternoon Mass) was supposedly the resultof a gift from Englands King Richard I, theLionheart, who was saved from a shipwreckon the nearby island of Lokrum. Soon afterthe earlier cathedral was destroyed in the 1667earthquake, work began on this new cathe-dral, which was finished in 1713 in a purelybaroque style. The cathedral is notable forits fine altars, especially the altar of St John

Nepomuk made of violet marble. The cathe-dral treasury (Riznica;% 411 715; adult/child 10/5KN;h 8am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5.30pm Sun) containsrelics of St Blaise as well as 138 gold and silverreliquaries largely made in the workshops ofDubrovniks goldsmiths between the 11th and17th centuries. Among a number of religiouspaintings, the most striking is the polyptychof the Assumption of the Virgin, made inTitians workshop.

ST IGNATIUS CHURCH & AROUNDBuilt in the same style as the cathedral andcompleted in 1725, theSt Ignatius Church (CrkvaSvetog Ignacija; Map p264; Uz Jezuite;h late-eveningMass) has frescoes displaying scenes from thelife of St Ignatius, founder of the Jesuit soci-ety. Abutting the church is the Jesuit College at the top of a broad flight of stairs leadingdown to Gundulieva Poljana, a bustling

morning market (Map p264; h 6am-1pm). Themonument in the centre is of Dubrovniksfamous poet, Ivan Gunduli. The reliefson the pedestal depict scenes from his epicpoem,Osman.

DOMINICAN MONASTERY & MUSEUMIf you return to the Sponza Palace and followUlica Svetog Dominika to Ploe Gate, youllfind theDominican Monastery & Museum (Muzej

Dominikanskog Samostana; Map p264;% 322 200; off UlicaSvetog Dominika 4; adult/child 20/10KN;h 9am-5pm). Itsa real architectural highlight of a transitionalGothic-Renaissance style and has a rich troveof paintings. Built at the same time as the citywalls in the 14th century, the stark exteriorresembles a fortress more than a religiouscomplex. The interior contains a graceful15th-century cloister constructed by localartisans after the designs of the Florentinearchitect Massa di Bartolomeo, and a large,single-naved church with an altarpiece byVlaho Bukovac. The eastern wing containsthe monasterys impressive art collection,which includes paintings from Dubrovniksfinest 15th- and 16th-century artists. Noticethe works of Nikola Boidarevi, Dobri Dobrievi and Mihajlo Hamzi.

The City Walls & FortsNo visit to Dubrovnik would be completewithout a leisurely walk around the powerfulcity walls (Gradske Zidine; Map p264; adult/child 50/20KN;h 9am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-3.30pm Nov-Mar), the fin-est in the world and Dubrovniks main claimto fame. Built between the 13th and 16th cen-turies, they are still intact today.

The first set of walls to enclose the citywas built in the 13th century. In the middleof the 14th century the 1.5m-thick walls werefortified with 15 square forts. The threat ofattacks from the Turks in the 15th centuryprompted the city to strengthen the existingforts and add new ones, so that the entireold town is now contained within a cur-tain of stone over 2km long and up to 25mhigh. The walls are thicker on the land side up to 6m and range from 1.5m to 3m onthe sea side. The roundMin eta Tower (Mapp264) protects the northern edge of the cityfrom land invasion, while the western end isprotected from land and sea invasion by thedetachedLovrjenac Fort (Map p262). Pile Gateis protected by theBokar Tower (Map p264),and theRevelin Fort (Map p264) protects the

eastern entrance.The views over the town and sea are great,so be sure to make this walk the high point ofyour visit. The entrance to the walls is imme-diately to the left of Pile Gate when you enterthe city. You can also enjoy Shakespearesplays, which are staged on the Lovrjenac Fortterrace during the Summer Festival.

The Maritime Museum (Map p264; % 323 904;adult/child 35/15KN;h 9am-6pm), inside St John

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Fort, traces the history of navigation inDubrovnik with ship models, maritime objects and paintings.

East of the Old TownMUSEUM OF MODERN ARTThe Museum of Modern Art (Map p262; % 426 590;Frana Supila 23; admission free;h 10am-7pm Tue-Sun) isgreat for those interested in contemporaryCroatian artists, particularly the local painterVlaho Bukovac.

ACTIVITIESSwimmingIts tough to know where to swim inDubrovnik, what with all those walls and har-bours. There are several city beaches, but manytake a boat to the Elafiti Islands (p276).

Banje Beach(Map p262) is the main townbeach, just beyond the 17th-century Lazareti(p274), outside Ploe Gate. Although manypeople rent lounge chairs and parasols fromthe nearby EastWest Club, theres no problemwith just flinging a towel on the beach. Anearby beach isSveti Jakov(Map p262), a 20-

minute walk down Vlaho Bukovac or a quickride on bus 5 or 8 from Frana Supila at the oldtowns northern end. Its a good, local beachthat doesnt get rowdy or too busy, and hasshowers, a bar and a restaurant.

Beaches past Pile Gate include the peb-bly uli i (Map p262) and the rockyDan e (Map p262). There are also two tiny coves, one right next to Orhan restaurant(p273) and the other a two-minute walk

from the restaurant, down the beach-levelnarrow streets.Another excellent place for swimming

is below the two Bua bars (p274), on theoutside of the city walls. Diving is off therocks, there are steps to help you get inand out, and theres some cemented spacebetween the rocks for sunbathing. Its a very atmospheric place but theres notmuch shade here, so bring a hat and strong

sun protection.Lapad Bay(Map p262) is brimming withhotel beaches that you can use without aproblem. The largest public beach on Lapadis outside the Hotel Kompas. A little furtheron isCopacabana Beach (Map p262) on BabinKuk peninsula, a good shallow beach with atoboggan for kids. If youre a naturist, headdown toCava(Map p262), signposted nearCopacabana Beach.

Diving & BoatingThe waters around Dubrovnik offer excellentdiving opportunities.

Navis Underwater Explorers (Map p262;% 099 3502773; www.navisdubrovnik.com; Copacabana Bea of-fers a full range of dives, courses and divingservices. The main diving site is the wreck ofthe Taranto . Blue Planet Diving (Map p262;% 091899 973; www.blueplanetdiving.com; Masarykov Pu isinside Hotel Dubrovnik Palace and offers thesame services.

Whether youre just dipping into the sportor youre an experienced kayaker,AdriaticKayak Tours(Map p262; % 091 722 0413; www.adriatickayaktours.com; Zrinsko Frankopanska 6) has a kayaktour for you. There are multiday tours avail-able that cover Lokrum Island and the ElafitiIslands; you can also go white-water raftingon the Tara River canyon and kayaking inKotor Bay in Montenegro. The main office isin Gru, and it also has a booking office onBanje Beach during the summer months.

TOURS

Dubrovnik Walks(%

095 806 4526; www.dubrovniwalks.com) conducts 1-hour guided walks ofthe old town in English daily at 10am and5pm (90KN). It also offers 1-hour walks ofDubrovniks walls and forts daily at 9.30amand 3.30pm (140KN), also in English. Themeeting place is in front of the Latino ClubFuego (p274) and no reservation is neces-sary. A combination ticket for both tourscosts 200KN.

Amico Tours(Map p262;% 418 248; www.amico-tours.com; Od Skara 1) offers day trips to Mostar andMeugorje (390KN), Montenegro (390KN),Albania (990KN), Korula and Peljeac(390KN), and the Elafiti Islands (250KN), aswell as numerous kayaking, rafting and jeep-safari day trips (590KN).

FESTIVALS & EVENTSThe Dubrovnik Summer Festival(Map p264; % 326

100; www.dubrovnik-festival.hr; Od Sigurate 1) is the mostprestigious summer festival in Croatia andhas taken place every year since 1950. For fiveweeks in July and August, a program of thea-tre, concerts and dance is presented on open-air stages throughout the city. The openingceremony takes place on Lua Sq and usuallyincludes fireworks and a band. In addition toattracting the best national artists and regionalfolklore ensembles, the program usually

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includes one or two big-name internationalartists. Theatre productions feature the playsof Marin Dri, Shakespeare, Molire and theGreek tragedians. Tickets range from 50KNto 300KN and are available from the festivaloffice on Placa or on site one hour before thebeginning of each performance. You can alsoreserve and buy them online.

Libertas Film Festival (www.libertasfilmfestival.com) takes place between 29 June and 4 July withfilms being screened in the open air at oldtown venues. A real treat. Check the websitefor the program.

TheFeast of St Blaise (3 February) is anothercitywide bash marked by pageants and proces-sions.Carnival festivities heralding the arrivalof Lent in February are also popular.

SLEEPINGMost of Dubrovniks hotels are gathered in theLapad and Ploe areas, though there are a fewgorgeous (and pricey) places to stay in the oldtown. The more expensive resort hotels arelocated east of town.

Private RoomsIf youre on a budget, youll have little choicebut to go for private accommodation, butbeware of the scramble of private owners atthe bus station or Jadrolinija ferry terminal:some provide what they say they offer, othersare scamming. Try to pin down the locationin advance or you could wind up staying aconsiderable distance from town. If the oneslisted here are all booked up, its a good idea to

try booking through any of the travel agencies(p264) or the tourist office (p263). If you renta room or apartment from someone at the busstation, make sure that their house sports abluesobe (rooms available) sign. Otherwise,they are renting illegally and you are unpro-tected in case of a problem.

Expect to pay about 200KN to 220KN fora room in the high season. There are alsoapartments available starting at about 500KN

for a studio. Its a very good idea to book inadvance, especially in the summer season.Begovi Boarding House (Map p262; % 435 191;

http://begovic-boarding-house.com; Primorska 17; dm low-high 14-19, s 25-32, d 32-40;i ) This is one ofDubrovniks favourite private room options,mainly because of the wonderful hospitalityoffered by the Begovi family. The rooms arebasic and comfortable, theres a lovely com-munal terrace and garden, and youre close

to all that Lapad has to offer. Its a 20- to 25-minute walk to the old town. The owners willpick you up for free from the bus station andby arrangement from the airport. Breakfastis not included, but is available at extra cost,and internet access is free. The family alsoorganises fishing picnics (250KN), which area wonderful way to spend the day.

Apartments Silva Kusjanovi (Map p262;% 435 071,098 244 639; [email protected]; Kardinala 62; per person 100KN)Sweet Silva has four largeapartments that can hold four to eight beds.All have terraces with gorgeous views and itspossible to barbecue.

Apartments & Rooms Bili i (Map p264; % 417152; www.geocities.com/apartments_bilicic; Privelow-high 18-25, d 36-50, apt 50-100;a ) One of thefew options near the old town, this is a greatplace to stay. The rooms are bright, clean andpleasant, with TVs and views of the gorgeousgarden, which has a lovely open-air kitchenwhere you can make your own breakfast. Theprivate bathrooms are across the hall fromthe rooms. There is a four-person apartment,too. Its a 15-minute walk to Pile Gate. Thefriendly owner, Marija, is a good source oflocal information.

Rooms Viceli (Map p264; % 098 979 0843; www.dubrovnik-online.com/rooms_vicelic; Antuninskar low-high 50-80) Two houses sit on a steppedalley within the heart of the old town. Thelocation is the real charmer here; the roomsare modern or a bit ramshackle but cute. Mostrooms in number 9 have high ceilings and astraightforward modern decor, with comfy

beds, TVs and en suite shower, toilet andkitchenette. Those in number 10 are moreshabby-chic; note that one ground-floor roomhas an upstairs bathroom, no real windowsand bang-your-head concrete beams, whileall share a mid-floor kitchenette and a two-seat sitting area.

Villa Klai (Map p262; % 411 144; www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/VillaKlaic-Dubrovnik-14432; 11; d from 200;as ) Many of Dubrovniks hun-

dreds of homestays have friendly owners, butfew are as wise, interesting and worldly asMilo Klai, the owner of excellent Villa Klai.This must be the only budget accommodationin Dubrovnik to offer guests a private outdoorswimming pool. Although high above the cen-tre, the old city is just 15 minutes walk away.All rooms have good private bathrooms; roomNo 7, with sheepskin-style throw carpets anda great shower, sits aloof near the pool.

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CampingSolitudo (Map p262; % 448 200; www.camping-adriatic.com; per person/site 49/55KN;h mid-Maymid-Oct)Thispretty and renovated camping ground is onLapad promontory within walking distanceof the beach.Camping Matkovi a (off Map p262;% 485 867; Mlini;per adult/site 40/50KN;h May-Oct) is next toPorto (offMap p262;% 487 078; Mlini; per adult/site 45/55KN;h May-Oct), 7km south of Dubrovnik. Both are small,near a quiet cove. Its best to call first. To gethere, take bus 10 or 16 to Srebreno, which willleave you almost at the gate to both grounds.

Old Town & Aroundo Fresh Sheets (Map p264; % 091 799 2086;[email protected]; Sv imuna 15; per person 25;i ) A brand new place run by Jon and Sanjafrom Fresh (p272), Fresh Sheets offers onedouble room and four individually decoratedapartments Lavender, Rainforest, Sunshineand Heaven with each sleeping two to fourpeople. The decoration ranges from brightlypainted walls and colourful bed-throws topristine and airy white interiors. The atmos-phere is lively and the hosts cater mainly tobackpackers and party-loving people. Thelocation is excellent very close to Bua(p274) and you get free internet and wi-fiand, when the Fresh bars kitchen is open, afree smoothie every day.

Apartments Amoret (Map p264; % 091 530 4910;www.dubrovnik-amoret.com; Dinke Ranjine 5 & Resti eva 2;apt 50-120;a ) Six artistically appointed apart-ments and rooms are tucked away within twoold town houses (Amoret 1 and Amoret 2)that date back to the 16th century. Each is dif-ferent but all are lovingly decorated to createsome of the most charming accommodationanywhere in Dubrovnik.

o Karmen Apartments(Map p264;% 323 433,098 619 282; www.karmendu.com; Bandureva 1; apt 55-145;a ) One of the best accommodation choicesin the whole of Dubrovnik, this collectionof apartments is run by Marc Van Bloemen,

an Englishman who has lived in Dubrovniksince the age of 11 and is therefore a fountof information on the city. Set inside an oldstone house in the middle of the old town,the four apartments are beautifully decoratedwith original artwork and imaginative use ofrecycled materials, all made by Marcs artistmother. There are small, one- to two-personapartments, as well as two for three or fourpeople; apartment No 1 has views of the har-

bour. Book well in advance because it all getsbooked up by June.

Hotel Stari Grad(Map p264; % 322 244; www.hotelstarigrad.com; Palmoti eva; s low-high 650-1180KNd 920-1580KN;a ) Staying in the heart of the oldtown in a lovingly restored stone building isan unmatchable experience. The eight roomshere are elegantly and tastefully furnished tofeel simple and luxurious at the same time.There is a marvellous view over the town fromthe rooftop terrace, where you can have yourbreakfast. Book in advance in the summerand note that there is a 10% extra charge forone-night stays.

Puci Palace(Map p264; % 326 222; www.thepucicpalace.com; Od Pua 1; s low-high 206-315, d 290-5pa ) Right in the heart of the old townand inside what was once a noblemans man-sion, this five-star hotel is Dubrovniks mostexclusive and hottest property. There are only19 rooms, all exquisitely decorated and fea-turing Italian mosaics, Egyptian cotton andbaroque beds. Many flush couples wed at the1st-floor terraces tiny chapel. The rooftoprestaurant Defne (p273) is one of the citysfinest, and the Caf Royal downstairs servesbreakfast la carte.

Hotel Hilton Imperial (Map p262;% 320 320; www.hilton.com; Marjana Blazi a 2; d from 250;pais ) The luxury Hilton is a restoration of the19th-century Hotel Imperial, Dubrovniksfinest establishment when the city was partof the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Locatedright outside Pile Gate, the hotel offers decorthat is modern but warm and inviting, withcheerful Mediterranean colours. Businesstravellers to Dubrovnik will appreciate theconference rooms, secretarial services andaudiovisual equipment, while leisure travel-lers can take advantage of the fitness room,indoor pool and fine dining offered at thehotels Restaurant Porat.

o Hotel Bellevue (Map p262; % 330 000;www.hotel-bellevue.hr; Petraingrije 7; d from 250;ais )A five-minute walk west from Pile

Gate, Hotel Bellevues location on a cliffthat overlooks the open sea and the lovelybay underneath is pretty much divine. Therooms are beautifully designed, the balconiesoverlook said sea and bay, and the break-fast, which can be eaten on your balcony, iswonderful. Despite being closed for much of2007, Bellevue is once again (since reopen-ing in June 2008) top dog in Dubrovnikshigh-end hotel scene. Its restaurant, Vapor,

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is top notch, too, with excellent seasonalproducts, fish, meat and a wide range ofCroatian wines.

LapadMost of the less-expensive hotels are inLapad, as well as a few more luxurious estab-lishments. Its quite a pleasant place to stay,away from the droves of tourists that floodthe old town. Its also a mixed residentialand tourist neighbourhood, and weekendsare full of strolling locals and their kids, soyou really get the feeling of being part ofthe city. The main road is etalite KraljaTomislava, while the pedestrian tree-linedetalite Kralja Zvonimira makes a lovelystroll past stalls and outdoor cafs. Nika iMeda Pucia is a cliffside path, shaded by apine forest and dotted with cafs and bars.Its prime strolling ground on Sunday.

A walk along the coast past the HotelKompas leads to lots of spots for stretchingout along the rocks and taking a swim. Afterabout 1km youll come to the Hotel Neptuneand a series of package-tour hotels. Bus 6

runs between Pile Gate and the bus stop inLapad near the post office, though you canwalk it easily in 20 minutes.

YHA Hostel (Map p262;% 423 241; [email protected];Vinka Sagrestana 3; per person low-high 85-120KN) Basicin decor, the YHA Hostel is clean and, astravellers report, a lot of fun. If you are al-lowed to choose a bed (rare), the best dormsare rooms 31 and 32. They cost the sameas any other but share a secret roof terrace

with a refreshingly lovely view. Rates in-clude breakfast. To get here head up VinkaSagrestana from Bana Josipa Jelaia 17.

Vila Micika (Map p262; % 437 332; www.vilamicika.hr; Mata Vodapi a; s low-high 150-210KN, d 300-420KN;p ) This is a simple, well-run establishment.The rooms are painted in soft colours andequipped with TVs and modern bathrooms.Theres a pleasant outdoor terrace, and itsonly 200m to the Lapad beaches. Micika has

a few clauses: prices do not include break-fast (8 per person extra), and add 30% tostays shorter than three days and 73KNfor air-con.

Hotel Adriatic (Map p262; % 437 302; www.hotelimaestral.com; Masarykov Put 9; s low-high 40-80, d 68-140) This large hotel has simple but service-able rooms and is close to the beach. Frontrooms are more expensive and overlook thesea but could be noisy.

Hotel Sumratin (Map p262; % 438 930; www.hotels-sumratin.com; etalite Kralja Zvonimira 3high 290-460KN, d 460-760KN;p ) The socialist-stylereception (large, brightly lit and decked outin dark wood) gives way to pretty decentrooms with terracotta carpets and spaciousbeds. Many rooms have small balconies, too.The Sumratin is well located on the mainLapad drag near all of the beaches.

o Hotel Zagreb (Map p262; % 430 930;www.hotels-sumratin.com; etalite Kralja Zvonims low-high 400-660KN, d 700-1060KN;a ) Underthe same ownership as Hotel Sumratin,Hotel Zagreb is the more stylish sister,set inside a lovely, salmon-coloured, 19th-century building. The rooms are large, thebeds comfy, and there are flat-screen TVs,paintings with marine motifs, and largecreamy bathrooms.

Hotel Uvala (Map p262; % 433 580; www.hotelimaestral.com; Masarykov Put 6; d 120-170;pas ) A newly renovated four-star hotel thatsdecked out with a lovely reception, indoorand outdoor pools and a comprehensivespa. The service is friendly and its a com-fortable place, very close to the beach. Itsunfortunate, however, that the rooms are abit of a let-down, with their glum brownsand whites.

Hotel Lapad (Map p262; % 432 922; www.hotel-lapad.hr; Lapadska Obala 37; d from 130;h Junmid-Oct;as ) Renovated in 2008, Hotel Lapad isinside a lovely old limestone building, withswanky new rooms that are all sharp cor-ners, sleek lines and modern furnishings.Theres no beach access but the hotel runsa daily boat to a remote beach near Zatonfor a small charge.

o Villa Wolff (Map p262; % 438 710; www.villa-wolff.hr; Nika i Meda Puci a 1; s low-high 1533-1879KNd 1606-1898KN;pai ) A gorgeous boutiquehotel right on the lovely seaside promenade,Villa Wolff only has six rooms, all beauti-fully outfitted, bright and airy. The suiteshave their own balconies and there is a ver-

dant garden that guests use for sunbathing.Gru HarbourHotel Petka (Map p262; % 410 500; www.hotelpetka.com; Obala Stjepana Radi a 38; s low-high 55-106, d80-144;pa ) Hotel Petka is opposite theJadrolinija ferry terminal, with 104 busi-ness-oriented rooms, each with TV, phoneand minibar. Its good if you need to catchan early morning ferry.

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Plo eThe best luxury establishments are east of theold town along Frana Supila within walkingdistance of the city centre.

Hotel Grand Villa Argentina (Map p262; % 440555; www.gva.hr; Frana Supila 14; d from 200;pas )This is a large hotel accompanied by two villas: Villa Orsula and the recently built VillaSheherezade. The latter is presented in fullyblown Arabian Nights style, with golds andcrimsons, tonnes of patterns and carved wood.Villa Orsula is a more classic affair, but richlydecorated nonetheless. The main hotel offersluxury suites as well as sleek, well-servicedmodern rooms, some of which overlook thesea. Theres an indoor and outdoor swimmingpool, but the swimming is excellent from therocks next to the hotel.

Hotel Excelsior (Map p262;% 353 353; www.hotel-excelsior.hr; Frana Supila 12; s/d from 1640/1890KN;pas ) This is possibly Dubrovniks biggest hotel ex-travaganza. Recently closed for a 10 millionrefit, the legendary Excelsior opened again in2008 to many bated breaths. Like Argentina,there is now an adjacent boutique villa, VillaOdak, whose rooms are gorgeously under-stated (as are those in the main building).There is also an indoor and outdoor swim-ming pool and a palm-tree terrace.

EATINGOld Town & AroundYou have to choose carefully when it comesto the old towns restaurants. Many ride onthe assumption that youre here just for a day(as many of the big cruiser passengers are)and that you wont be coming back. Ratherthan looking for somewhere to eat on theStradun, go to the side streets, where youllfind plenty of good places to eat and snack(see our recommendations following). Alsobe highly discerning when choosing to eaton Prijeko, where many of the offerings canbe overpriced.

Smuuti Bar (Map p264;% 091 896 7509; Palmoti eva 5;smoothies 18-25KN) Perfect for breakfast smooth-ies and nice big mugs of coffee (at a bargain10KN), this is the breakfast sister of Nishta(right). The friendly staff speak English.

Buffet Skola (Map p264; % 321 096; Antuninska 1;snacks from 20KN)For a quick bite between sight-seeing spots, you cant do better. Fresh cheese,local tomatoes and local ham are some of theingredients stuffed into the heavenly home-made bread here.

Fresh(Map p264;% 091 896 7509; www.igotfresh.comVetrani eva 4; wraps from 20KN) A mecca for youngtravellers who gather here for the smoothies,wraps and other healthy snacks, as well asdrinks and music in the evening (see p274).

Nishta(Map p264;% 091 896 7509; Prijeko 30; mainfrom 30KN)When this 100% vegetarian restau-rant opened in Dubrovnik (an unprecedentedcase), the baffled locals asked the owners whatthey served. Everything except meat, theysaid, and the locals concluded that they mustbe serving nothing. Hence the name Nishta,which means nothing in Croatian. Alas,youre in the Balkans, what do you expect?Head here for a refreshing gazpacho, a heart-warming miso soup, Thai curries, veggies andnoodles, and many more nonmeat delights.

Pizzeria Baracuda (Map p264; % 323 160; NikoleBoidarevi a 10; mains from 35KN) A Dubrovnik old-timer, this is a friendly pizzeria near theOrthodox Church, with tables outside on aquiet courtyard. Dont expect Italian-stylepizza perfection, but its cheap, the portionsare generous, and with a crisp, cold beer inyour hand its a real treat.

Kamenice (Map p264;% 421 499; Gunduli eva Poljana8; mains from 40KN)Its been here since the 1970sand not much has changed; not the social-ist-style waiting uniforms, nor the simpleinterior and the massive portions of mussels,grilled or fried squid, griddled anchovies andkamenice (oysters). And the owners have,incredibly, seen no need to up their prices.The terrace is on one of Dubrovniks mostgorgeous squares.

o Lokanda Peskarija (Map p264;% 324 750;Ribarnica bb; mains from 40KN)Located on the OldHarbour right next to the fish market, this isundoubtedly one of Dubrovniks best eater-ies. It satisfies on every level: the quality ofthe seafood dishes is unfaltering, the pricesare good and the location is gorgeous. Localsqueue along with tourists for the wonder-ful baby squid, the substantial risottos andthe juicy mussels. Sip a glass ofdinga and

try the roata, a Croatian version of crmebrle, while you watch the boats bob on thesilky waters.

dub (Map p264; % 426 319; www.dub-loungebar.hr; Brsalje 1; breakfast from 50KN) If you fancy a bigbreakfast while overlooking the city wallsand Pile Gate from a breezy terrace, dub isthe place. Vegetarian, meaty and eggy break-fasts come with salads, fresh juices and cof-fee or tea, but only before noon. The lounge

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chairs and sofas are very comfortable, so youcan come here for an afternoon snack or anevening cocktail, too.

Orhan(Map p262; % 414 183; Od Tabakarije 1; mainsfrom 50KN)Orhan is beautifully located on arocky cove, overlooking the city walls. It spe-cialises in fish and seafood, but the qualityof the cooking has suffered from restingon-itslaurelsitis in the last few years, so opt forsomething simple and enjoy the view.

Revelin (Map p264;% 322 164; Ulica Svetog Dominikabb; mains from 60KN) There are few places inDubrovnik with such a wonderful locationand good prices as the Revelin. A restaurantand bar in the summer, and bar and club inthe winter, this place has a terrace spreadingunder an old pine tree by Ploe Gate, over-looking the harbour. It serves good pastas (trythe crayfish tagliatelle with a tangy tomatosauce) and meat dishes, such as veal medal-lions and lamb shanks.

Wanda (Map p264;% 098 944 9317; www.wandarestaurant.com; Prijeko 8; mains from 70KN) Single-handedlysaving the reputation of Prijeko restaurants,Wanda is truly one you can go to for reliably

good upmarket dining. The menu is Italian,with wonderful dishes such as zucchini stuffedwith prawns, osso bucco and saffron risotto,and a heady stew of prawns, scallops, lobster,clams, mussels and fish. The ingredients arefresh, local and seasonal, and the setting el-egant and relaxed.

Defne(Map p264; % 326 200; Od Pua 1; mains from70KN) Puci Palaces (p270) top-floor restau-rant is one of the old towns classiest. The

Turkish chef makes sure you get some goodkebabs on the menu (posh kebabs, that is, withfresh mint and lavender sauces), but he mainlyfocuses on Dalmatias fish and seafood. Trythe octopus carpaccio starter, served withblacktagliolini and truffle a piece of heavenin your mouth or the gorgeous lobster withwhite risotto. The wine list is impeccable.

Proto(Map p264; % 323 234; www.esculap-teo.hr;iroka 1; mains from 80KN)Sister restaurant to the

painfully classy Nautika, Proto is an equallyelegant affair with understated flavours andsimple fresh ingredients. The fish is top-notch(try the fish soup) and the lobster is a feast.The sauces are light and balance the dishesperfectly. Book in advance.

Gils (Map p264; % 322 222; www.gilsdubrovnik.com;Ulica Svetog Dominika bb; mains from 120KN) Uber-posh,super-expensive and gloriously glitzy, Gilsis a Russo-French affair of, you guessed it,

Russian dosh and French taste. As such, itsaimed at Dubrovniks creamiest tourists (andlocals) who want to dine on Sevruga caviar(360KN), seashell panna cotta , exquisite blacktruffle risotto with veal glac, raw red tuna julienne, black ravioli with lobster sauce, andother dizzyingly delectable dishes. The winecellar is the chefs pride and joy, with 6000carefully chosen bottles, and the setting is thebest in Dubrovnik overlooking the harbourfrom within the walls, with a gorgeous terraceupstairs. If youve got the dough, this is theplace to spend it.

Self-caterers have the privilege to use thelocal foodmarket (Map p264; Gunduli eva Poljana;% 6am-1pm), which sells fresh local and sea-sonal products every morning.

LapadLapads main drag, etalite Kralja Tomislava,is packed with cafs, bars and restaurants.Some restaurants are tourist traps, so checkthe menu well before you commit, thoughmost are decent places much enjoyed bythe locals.

Sedna (Map p262; % 352 000; www.hotel-kompas.hr; Petraingrije 7; pizzas from 26KN, omelettes 30- The Hotel Kompas bar-pizzeria is a great andunpretentious spot for breakfast, lunch ordinner. You can sit on a terrace overlookingthe beach and Lapad Bay, while the localsbuzz around, drinking coffees and chattingon sunny mornings and afternoons.

Konoba Atlantic (Map p262; % 435 726; KardinalaStepinca 42; mains from 45KN) Its not terribly at-

mospheric at the outdoor tables here, sinceits next to a bus stop. Install yourself in-doors, however, and you can sample superbhomemade pastas, vegetarian lasagne andgnocchi with rabbit sauce.

o Levanat (Map p262;% 435 352; Nika i MedaPuci a 15; mains 45-120KN)One of the best spotsin the whole city, Levanat overlooks the seafrom the pine-laden hill between Lapad Bayand Babin Kuk. The food is innovative and

equally gorgeous, with seafood and unu-sual sauces, fresh ingredients and delicious vegetarian options.

Taraca (Map p262; etalite Kralja Zvonimira; mains f50KN;h Jun-Sep) Under Hotel Sumratin, in thepine-shaded courtyard, this is a large-scalepeoples restaurant that grills everything:meat, fish and vegetables. Sit on one of theplastic chairs, let your kids run wild, andenjoy the lively atmosphere.

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Blidinje (Map p262; % 358 794; Lapadska Obala 21;mains from 70KN) A great local thats not fre-quented by many tourists, Blidinje has fabu-lous views of Gru Harbour from its terrace.The food is aimed primarily at carnivores,so use the opportunity to taste lamb or vealslow-cooked under hot coals but makesure you ring in and order at least two hoursin advance. Then, order some good red wineand settle in for the evening.

Plo eChihuahua Cantina Mexicana (Map p264;% 424 445;Hvarska 6; mains from 30KN)No matter how goodthe local cuisine is, sometimes you just wantto bury your face in a plate of empanadas.This is a lively, young place and the punterscome for the quesadillas, tacos and enchila-das, as well as a cool bottle of Corona.

DRINKINGSummer in Dubrovnik is a fabulous time.You sit under the stars, sipping beer, cock-tails or wine, everyones dressed up andready to stay up, and theres a great buzz in

town. Most people head for the old town;Lapad is a place for families and quieter fun,but pleasant nonetheless.

Troubadur (Map p264; % 412 154; Buni eva Poljana2)A legendary Dubrovnik venue, youve gotto have at least one drink at the Troubadur.There are live jazz concerts in the summeron most nights often (though not always)played by Marko, the owner, and his jazzband. The atmosphere is excellent and any-

one whos anyone in town comes to hangout here.o Bua(Map p264; Ilije Sarake)Another

must-have-drink place, the Bua (literallyhole) started out as just a simple placeon the outside of the city walls, facingout onto the open sea. It served drinks inplastic cups to blissful punters, with onlya white metal fence and a straw awning toprotect you from the elements. Its stayed

pretty much the same (though it now hasreal glasses), but its become a city attrac-tion, with increased prices to match. Findit by following the cold drinks sign alongthe city walls.

o Bua II (Map p264; Crijevi eva 9) Sisterto the more frazzled original Bua, this oneis lower on the rocks, with a snazzier lookand good swimming from the rocks. A greatplace to spend the day.

Fresh(Map p264;% 091 896 7509; www.igotfresh.comVetrani eva 4; cocktails from 35KN) All of Dubrovniksbackpackers head over to Fresh in theevening, when the smoothies and wraps arereplaced by cocktails, beers (lots of two-for-ones), music and a great party atmosphere.Karaka Irish Bar(Map p264; % 324 014; Izme uPolaa 7)The Emerald Isle is well representedhere with Irish draught beer on tap, Irishmusic in the evenings and a happy hourfrom 3pm to 7pm. You can even watch UKsporting events beamed in by satellite.

EastWest Club (Map p262; % 412 220; Frana Supilabb) By day this outfit on Banje Beach rentsout beach chairs and umbrellas and servesdrinks to the bathers who come here to relaxand rehydrate. When the rays lengthen, thecocktail bar opens and a smart-casual set ad-mires the sunset over a long, cool drink.

Hemingway Cocktail Bar (Map p264; Pred Dvorom) A massively popular venue opposite theRectors Palace, Hemingways has the long-est cocktail list in Dubrovnik old Ernestwould have been proud! Dressed-up young-sters like to hang out here and it gets prettypacked on weekend nights.

ENTERTAINMENTNightclubsLatino Club Fuego(Map p264; Pile Brsalje 11)Despitethe name, youll find a range of dance musicthat includes techno and pop. The atmos-phere is relaxed with no glowering bouncerand no rigid dress code.

Lazareti(Map p262; % 324 633; Frana Supila 8) Dubrovniks best art and music centre,Lazareti hosts cinema nights, club nights,live music, masses of concerts and prettymuch all the best things in town.

CinemasSloboda Cinema (Map p264; % 321 425; clock tower) This is the most centrally located cinemain Dubrovnik. Posters outside advertise the

nightly showings.Open-Air Cinema (Map p262; Kumii a, Lapad)In twolocations, it is open nightly in July and Augustwith screenings starting after sundown (9pmor 9.30pm). Also at Za Rokom in the old town(Map p264).

Lazareti (Map p262;% 324 633; Frana Supila 8) Comehere for the free art-film seasons hosted by agroup of local film enthusiasts throughout theyear. International and local films are projected

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lone lyplane t . com DUBROVNIK Shopping

onto the 19th-century walls of the Lazareticomplex, once a quarantine barracks.

Live MusicSt Blaises Church (Map p264; Lua Sq; admission free)Open-air folklore shows are conducted infront of the church at 11am on Sundaysthrough May, June and September.

Dubrovnik Orchestra (% 417 101) The orches-tra regularly gives concerts in the atrium ofthe Rectors Palace and at various other sitesaround town.

Dubrovnik String Quartet(Map p264; St SaviourChurch, Placa)The quartet gives concerts through-out autumn on Monday night in St SaviourChurch. Look for posters around town or askat the tourist office.

SHOPPINGYoull find souvenir stores all over Stradun,selling Dalmatian marine details, stripy tops,anchors and the like.

Maria (Map p264; % 321 330; www.maria-dubrovnik.hr; Ulica Svetog Dominika bb) Take a few deep breathsbefore you step into this shop, for you are

sure to swoon at the sight of soft Miu Miuleather bags, lacquered Alexander McQueenshoes and gorgeous Marni dresses. Theprices are international, of course, and theservice is friendly, too, which is always apleasant surprise.

Sheriff & Cherry (Map p264;% 324 888; www.sheriff -andcherry.com; or i eva 4;h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pmSat) One of the few trendy boutiques in town,this Zagreb-based shop stocks all the major

fashion labels, such as Paul & Joe, CheapMondays, Anya Hindmarch and Dries VanNoten, among many, many others.

Photo Gallery Carmel (Map p264;% 091 577 7157;www.phototgallerycarmel.com; Zamanjina 10;h 9am-4pmMon-Sat) A newly opened photography gallerythat hosts work by local and internationalartists. Prints are for sale.

Djardin (Map p264; % 324 744; Miha Pracata 8;h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) A sprawl-

ing jewellery shop where you can get lostfor hours.

GETTING THERE & AWAYAirDaily flights to and from Zagreb are oper-ated byCroatia Airlines (Map p264;% 413 777; www.croatiaairlines.hr; Brsalje 9;h 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat). The one-way fare is about 400KN butcan run higher in peak season. There are

also nonstop flights to Rome, London andManchester from April to October.

BoatIn addition to the Jadrolinija (Map p262; % 418000; www.jadrolinija.hr; Gru Harbour) coastal ferrynorth to Hvar, Split, Zadar and Rijeka,theres a local ferry that leaves Dubrovnikfor Sobra and Polae on Mljet (50KN, 2hours) throughout the year. In summer thereare two ferries a day. There are several fer-ries a day year-round to the outlying ElafitiIslands of Koloep, Lopud and ipan.

Ferries also go from Dubrovnik to Bari,in southern Italy; there are six a week inthe summer season (346KN to 477KN, ninehours, 11pm Friday to Wednesday) and two(Friday at 3.30pm and Monday at 11pm) inthe winter months.

Jadroagent (Map p262; % 419 000; Obala Stje-pana Radi a 32) books ferry tickets and hasinformation.

BusDaily buses from Dubrovnik include thefollowing:Destination Fare (KN) Duration Daily

(hr) servicesKorula 95 3 1Mostar* 100 3 2Orebi 80 2 1Rijeka 400 13 2Sarajevo* 200 5 1Split 120 4 14

Zadar 250 8 7Zagreb 250 11 7-8

*Bosnia & Hercegovina

For international buses, see p308. In a busysummer season and on weekends, buses outof Dubrovnikbus station(Map p262; % 060 305070; Obala Pape Ivana Pavla II 44a) can be crowded,so book a ticket well before the scheduled

departure time.SplitDubrovnik buses pass brieflythrough Bosnian territory, so keep yourpassport handy for border-crossing points.

GETTING AROUNDTo/From the Airport ilipi international airport is 24km south-east of Dubrovnik. The Croatia Airlines air-port buses (30KN) leave from the main bus

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AROUND DUBROVNIK Lokrum Is land lone lyplane t . com

station 1 hours before flight times. A taxicosts about 220KN.

BusDubrovniks buses run frequently and gener-ally on time. They make an excellent alterna-tive to hassling with Dubrovniks increasinglyburdened traffic and parking scene. The fareis 10KN if you buy from the driver, but only8KN if you buy a ticket at atisak (news-stand). Timetables are available at the stationand at www.libertas dubrovnik.hr.

CarThe entire old town is a pedestrian area so acar is mainly valuable for trips out to Lapadand throughout the region. Bear in mindthat traffic on the roads leading to the oldtown can be heavy in summer. Car-rentalcompanies include the following:Budget Rent-a-Car(Map p262;% 418 998; www.budget.hr; Obala Stjepana Radi a 24)Gulliver (Map p262;% 313 313; Obala StjepanaRadi a 31)Hertz (Map p262;% 425 000; www.hertz.hr; FranaSupila 9)OK Travel & Trade (Map p262;% 418 950; [email protected]; Obala Stjepana Radi a 32) Near the Jadro-linija ferry terminal.

AROUND DUBROVNIKDubrovnik is an excellent base for daytrips into the surrounding region. You canhop over to the Elafiti Islands for a day ofpeaceful sunbathing, head to the beautifulislands of Korula and Mljet for some goodfood and wine, and check out the headysmell of Trstenos gardens. Cavtat is a

quieter alternative to Dubrovnik, good for alovely days worth of sights, swimming andyummy food.

LOKRUM ISLANDA ferry shuttles half-hourly in summer tolush Lokrum Island (80KN return), a Unesco-protected national park. Its a beautiful, peace-ful place, where most visit to get away fromthe hustle of Dubrovnik. Note that no one

can stay overnight. The rockynudist beach (marked FKK) is a delight for naturists, andthere is abotanical garden and the ruins of amedieval Benedictine monastery. You can swimoff numerous rocks. Its heavenly.

Snack atLacroma(snacks from 20KN), a bar twominutes walk uphill from the harbour. Thereis live guitar music, too, so you can chill outwith a coffee before the boat arrives. Moresubstantial food can be had atKonoba Lokrum

(mains from 50KN), the Benedictine monastery res-taurant, where you eat among the old ruins.The food is the usual combo of seafood, meat,pastas and risottos.

ELAFITI ISLANDSA day trip to one of the islands in this archipel-ago northwest of Dubrovnik makes a perfectescape from the summer crowds. The mostpopular islands areKolo ep, Lopud and ipan,

which are accessible by daily Jadrolinija (www .jadrolinija.hr) car ferry. From Dubrovnik youcan take a fast boat to Koloep (11KN, 20minutes), Lopud (11KN, 35 minutes) or ipan(16.50KN, 1 hours) on Saturday mornings.A good way to see all three islands in one dayis to take the Three Islands & Fish Picnic touroffered by Amico Tours (p268).

Koloep is the nearest island and is inhab-ited by a mere 150 people. There are several

CROSS-BORDER JAUNTS

Dubrovnik is an easy bus ride away from Montenegros gorgeous towns of Kotor, Herceg Noviand Budva. All three have wonderful old town centres, with curving marble streets and prettyarchitecture, while Kotor is on one of Europes largest fjords, Kotor Bay. If you really want totake your time and explore the region, you should rent a car, but theres a daily 11am bus tothe Montenegrin border, from where a bus takes you to Herceg Novi (80KN, two hours) and onto Kotor (120KN, 2 hours) and Bar (150KN, three hours), stopping at Budva on the way. EU,US, Australian, New Zealand and Canadian citizens dont need a visa to enter Montenegro; othernationalities should check with their relevant embassy.

There are also buses to Mostar (see p275 ), giving you a chance to glance at Mostars OldBridge and dip your toe into the world of Bosnia and Hercegovina. Its quite difficult to go for aday on public transport, but Amico Tours ( p268 ) organises day trips.

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sand-and-pebble beaches, steep cliffs and seacaves, as well as centuries-old pine forests, olivegroves, and orange and lemon orchards.

Lopud is 25 minutes further and has anumber of interesting churches and monas-teries dating from the 16th century, when theinhabitants seafaring exploits were legendary.Lopud village is composed of stone housessurrounded by exotic gardens. You can walkacross the spine of the island to beautiful andsandyunj beach; there is a little bar there thatserves griddled sardines and other types offish. No cars are allowed on the island.

ipan is the largest of the islands and wasa favourite with the Dubrovnik aristocracy,who built houses there in the 15th century.The boat lands inipanska Luka in the north-west of the island, which has the remains of aRoman villa and a 15th-century Gothic dukespalace. Eat atKod Marka (% 758 007; ipanska Luka;mains from 50KN), where youll have gloriouslyprepared seafood.

MLJET ISLANDpop 1237

Of all the Adriatic islands, Mljet (mil-yet) maybe the most seductive. Much of the island iscovered by forests and the rest is dotted withfields, vineyards and small villages. The north-western half of the island has been namedMljet National Park, where the lush vegetationand gentle coves are unmarred by develop-ment schemes, large resorts or virtually anyother tourism trappings. Its an unspoiledoasis of tranquillity that, according to legend,

captivated Odysseus for seven years. Weresure he didnt regret a moment.

HistoryAncient Greeks called the island Melita orhoney for the many bees humming in theforests. It appears that Greek sailors came tothe island for refuge against storms and togather fresh water from the springs. At thattime the island was populated by Illyrians,

who erected hill forts and traded with themainland. They were conquered by theRomans in 35 BC, who expanded the set-tlement around Polae by building a palace,baths and servants quarters.

The island fell under the control of theByzantine Empire in the 6th century and waslater subjected to the 7th-century invasionsof Slavs and Avars. After several centuries ofregional rule from the mainland, Mljet was

given to the Benedictine order in the 13thcentury, which constructed a monastery in themiddle of Veliko Jezero. Dubrovnik formallyannexed the island in 1410.

Although Mljets fortunes were thereaftertied to those of Dubrovnik, the inhabitantsmaintained their traditional activities of farm-ing, viticulture, husbandry and seafaring.Except for seafaring, the traditional activi-ties are still the foundation of the economy.Establishing the national park in 1960 helpedbring tourism to Mljet, but the islanders arecontent to keep visitors down to manageablelevels. Priorities here are peace and quiet.

Orientation & InformationThe island is 37km long, and has an averagewidth of about 3km. The main points of entryare Pomena and Polae, two tiny towns about5km apart. Tour boats from Korula and theDubrovnik catamarans arrive at Polae wharfin the high season. Theres a good map ofthe island posted at Polaes wharf. Pomenais the site of the islands only conventionalhotel, Hotel Odisej. Jadrolinija ferries stop

only at Sobra.Goveari, the national parks entry point,is between Pomena and Polae. Thenationalpark(adult/concession 90/30KN) measures 54 sq kmand the entry price includes a bus and boattransfer to the Benedictine monastery. If youstay overnight on the island you only pay thepark admission once.

The tourist office (% 744 186; www.mljet.hr;h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun Jun-Sep, 8am-1p

8pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) is in Polae and there is anATM next door. Theres another ATM at theHotel Odisej in Pomena.

The administrative centre of the island is atBabino Polje, 18km east of Polae, where thereis anothertourist office (% /fax 745 125; www.mljet.hr;h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) and a post office.

SightsThe highlights of the island areMalo Jezero and

Veliko Jezero, the two lakes on the islands west-ern end connected by a channel. Veliko Jezerois connected with the sea by the Soline Canal,which makes the lakes subject to tidal flows.

In the middle of Veliko Jezero is an isletwith aBenedictine monastery. The monasterywas originally built in the 12th century but hasbeen rebuilt several times, adding Renaissanceand baroque features to the Romanesquestructure. It contains theChurch of St Mary

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(Crkva Svete Marije), which was built aroundthe same time. In addition to building themonastery, the Benedictine monks deepenedand widened the passage between the twolakes, taking advantage of the rush of sea water

into the valley to build amill at the entrance toVeliko Jezero. The monastery was abandonedin 1869 and the mill housed the governmentsforest-management offices for the island until1941. It was then converted into a hotel, whichwas trashed during the 1990s war. Now it con-tains a pricey but atmospheric restaurant.

Theres a boat from Mali Most (about1.5km from Pomena) on Malo Jezero thatleaves for the island monastery every hour at

10 minutes past the hour. Its not possible towalk right around the larger lake as theres nobridge over the channel connecting the lakesto the sea. If you decide to swim it, keep inmind that the current can be strong.

Polae features a number of remains datingfrom the 1st to 6th centuries. Most impressiveis theRoman palace, probably dating from the5th century. The floor plan was rectangularand on the front corners are two polygonal

towers separated by a pier. On a hill over thetown you can see the remains of a late-antiquefortification and northwest of the village arethe remains of an earlyChristian basilica and a5th-centurychurch.

ActivitiesRenting a bicycle is an excellent way to explorethe national park. You can rent from aprivateoperator (% 098 428 074)in Mali Most, at the

Hotel Odisej in Pomena or at the harbour inPolae. The price is 20/100KN per hour/day.If you plan to cycle the 5km between Pomenaand Polae, be aware that the two towns areseparated by a steep mountain. The bike path

along the lake is an easier and very scenicpedal, but it doesnt link the two towns. Youcan also get aMini Brum (% 745 084), a smallelectric car, from Sobra, Polae and Pomena.Prices start at 260KN for five hours.

You can rent apaddle boat and row over tothe monastery, but beware youll need quitestrong arms.

The island offers some unusual opportuni-ties fordiving. Theres a Roman wreck dating

from the 3rd century in relatively shallowwater. The remains of the ship, includingamphorae, have calcified over the centuriesand this has protected them from pillaging.Theres also a German torpedo boat fromWWII and several walls to dive. ContactKronmar Diving(% 744 022; Hotel Odisej).

ToursSee p264 (Dubrovnik) and p283 (Korula) for

agencies offering excursions to Mljet. Tourslast from about 8.30am to 6pm and includethe park entry fee.

SleepingThe Polae tourist office arranges private ac-commodation for 250KN per double, but it isessential to make arrangements before arrivalin the peak season. There are moresobe signsaround Pomena than Polae, and practically

To Korula

To Dubrovnik

A D R I A T I C S E A

e I n l e t

P o l a

Mljetski Channel

Mali Most

Kozarica

Soline

Polae

Goveari

KueBabine

Sikjerica

Pomena

MljetNational

Park

Mednagora

Bijed(333m)Planjak

(392m)

(270m)

Veliko Jezero

Jezero Malo

Vanji kolj

OvrataMoranik

Tajnik

MaslinovacGlavat

Pometak

Kobrava

RatKula

Rat Tojsti

Donja pontaGarmica

Fratarskagarma

Rat

GoliRat

Sparoni

RatLenga

Korizmeni Rat

Benedictine Monastery

MLJET ISLAND

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels AROUND DUBROVNIK Mljet Is lan

none at all in Sobra. A number of the restau-rants listed on right rent out rooms.

Theres no camping permitted inside thenational park but there are two campinggrounds outside it.

Marina (% 745 071; Ropa; per person/site 25/47KN;h Jun-Sep) A small camping ground in Ropa,about 1km from the park.

Camping Mungos(% 745 300; Babino Polje; per person/site 30/62KN;h May-Sep) Not very shady but welllocated, this camping ground is not far fromthe beach and the lovely grotto of Odysseus(Odisejeva peina).

Stermasi(% 098 939 0362; Saplunara; apt low-high30-45;a ) An excellent choice for those

wanting to self-cater and get away from itall. Seven well-equipped, bright apartmentssleep two to four people; two have their ownterrace and the rest have a private balcony.Saplunara is pretty isolated, though, on theeastern side of the island, but you get thebonus of being near the only sandy beacheson Mljet. Theres also an excellent restaurantattached (see right).

Soline 6 (% 744 024; www.soline6.com; Soline; d low-

high 45-75) This hotel is a more interestingchoice. Its the only accommodation withinthe national park and is designed with wa-terless toilets, solar heating and organicwaste composting. Youll have to do withoutelectricity though.

Hotel Odisej (% 744 022; www.hotelodisej.hr;Pomena; s low-high 354-599KN, d 436-820KN;a ) Theonly conventional hotel option on the is-land, this is a modern structure in Pomena,

which has decent enough rooms and offersa range of activities.

EatingThe restaurants on Mljet serve good qual-

ity fish and seafood, but also the unexpectedsurprise of kid and lamb. A lot of dishes aredone under the bell cooked from top andbottom under hot coals. Fresh fish costs about300KN per kilogram. A tip for boaters: youcan moor at any of the restaurants for free ifyou eat there.

o Stermasi(% 098 939 0362; Saplunara; mainfrom 50KN)Phone Stermasi two hours in advanceand head over to Saplunara for a dinner or

lunch youll remember for the rest of your life.Octopus and kid under the bell (200KN and260KN respectively) are possibly the most de-licious, sticky, aromatic and juicy youll evertaste. Alternatively, you can just turn up andorder the spaghetti with lobster (280KN) or,if thats not delicious enough, try the heavieroption of wild boar with gnocchi. Then go anddigest it all on the nearby sandy beach.

Melita (% 744 145; www.mljet-restoranmelita.co

St Marys Island, Veliko Jezero; mains from 60KN) A moreromantic (and touristy) spot cant be foundon the island this is the restaurant attachedto the church on the little island in the middleof the big lake. The menu is packed with theusual fish, seafood and meat dishes, but itsthe setting that counts.

Triton (% 745 131; Srenovi I 43, Babino Polje;mains from 70KN) Another place for under-the-bell meat, Triton mainly focuses on kid,

To Dubrovnik;

Saplunara

Korula

Mljetski Channel

Sobra

Zadublje

Blato

Ropa

Babino Polje

(369m)Straevac

Smokov(267m)

(485m)Zirine

(351m)kua

Babina

(459m)KantunSutilija

(388m)

Vilinska glava(250m)

Ogiran

MaharacPoint

GluacRat

PointGrebac

RatDebeli

Point Maharac

PuhavacPoint

Odisejeva

Ostaevica

2 km1 mile

00

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AROUND DUBROVNIK Cavtat Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotel

though there is also veal on offer. Dontmiss its amazing homemade spirit collec-tion (though beware if youre driving itspotent stuff!).

Mali Raj (% 744 115; Babine Ku e 3, Gove ari; mainsfrom 80KN) Lovely and simple, Mali Raj servesmore kid under the bell (order a day in advance), plus fish and seafood in a lovelysetting by the sea. Its in Goveari, near thePolae harbour.

Getting There & AroundJadrolinija ferries stop only at Sobra (32KN,two hours) but theMelita catamaran (% 313 119;www.gv-line.hr; Vukovarska 34, Dubrovnik)goes to Polae(70KN) after Sobra (50KN) in the summermonths, l

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Croatia 5 Dubrovnik Southern Dalmatia