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What Are You Wearing?
An exploration into the use of harmful chemicals
and practices in the fashion industry
introduction
People are thinking more and more about
what goes into their food but there is still little
publicity regarding potentially dangerous
chemicals used in the production of
clothing
Mostly because of Greenpeace’s “Fashion
Detox” campaign, this is beginning to
change
Was one of the first widely publicized
scientific studies on the subject
NPEs—What are they?
nonylphenol ethoxylates (aka NPEs) are a
common type of synthetic cleaning agent
Are often used in the production of textiles
and in the clothing industry
Can also be found in many detergents
Roughly 270 million pounds of NPEs are used
in the U.S. each year
NPEs—Why are They Harmful?
Because they function as a cleaning agent,
almost all NPEs end up being rinsed down
the drain and into rivers and lakes
Not just in the Global South, but locally as
well
A U.S. Geological Survey study found
metabolites of NPEs present in over 61 per
cent of tested U. S. streams.
When NPEs end up in water systems they become incredibly dangerous
They mimic the hormone estrogen and act as endocrine disruptors
Especially if they break down into NPs
NPs have been involved in the widespread "feminization" of male fish and in the disruption of hormone processes in some mammals
Once ingested, the body cannot tell the difference
resulting in cellular confusion in reproduction and development
No conclusive studies have confirmed the negative affects of NPEs on humans
However, many scholars have listed NPEs as at least a partial cause of modern hormonal health issues
The use of NPEs is completely restricted in Europe
Residue from NPE used in the textile production process remains in garments long after they leave the factory or even after several washes
And other contaminated organisms can easily end up in our food
The constant NPE contact with our skin could have dangerous affects
Constant contact with harmful chemicals is changing our bodies
Azo Dyes
Azo Dyes are another substance often used
in textile production because of their ability
to create a wide spectrum of hues with
outstanding colorfastness
The use of these dyes is potentially
dangerous because they can easily break
down into cancer-causing amines
Other Harmful Substances
During the journey from plant to product, cotton undergoes a series of processes
bleaching, sizing, dying, straightening, shrink reduction, stain and odor resistance, fireproofing, mothproofing, and static- and wrinkle-reduction
Chemicals often used for finishing garments include formaldehyde, caustic soda, sulfuric acid, bromines, urea resins, sulfonamides, halogens, and bromines, and long-lasting disinfectants.
Residues from using these chemicals can cause
moderate to severe reactions in people with Multiple
Chemical Sensitivities
These can manifest as rashes, itching, dermatitis,
swelling, and restriction of breath
People are developing allergies to formaldehyde in
particular
Which is also shown to be a powerful human
carcinogen
PPD is another substance used in black dyes and the
treatment of leather which causes particularly severe
reactions
As of now, there is no universal requirement to disclose
the chemical content of clothes manufactured
Often extremely hard to trace where garments are
made and which dangerous compounds are likely
present
Greenpeace Study
As part of their “Fashion Detox” campaign, this study was conducted in April 2012
Tested 141 clothing items from 20 major brandslooking for evidence of phthalates, NPEs, and azo dyes
(all harmful and potentially carcinogenic)
Brands tested included Calvin Klein, Adidas, Converse, Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, Bauer Hockey, Cortefiel, Uniqlo, Gap, H&M, Lacoste, Zara, Mango, Nike, Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation (PVH Corp), Levi’s, and Puma
Tested garments from 27 countries
Results
NPEs were the most commonly detected substances, identified in 89 of the 141 articles (63% of the total).
NPE concentrations ranged from just above 1 mg/kg up to 45 000 mg/kg.
12 samples (9% of articles tested) showed concentrations over 1 000 mg/kg
NPEs were detected in one or more products from all of the tested brands, in at least one product from 13 of the 18 identifiable countries of manufacture, and in products sold in 25 out of the 27 countries
Results (cont.)
In addition to the widespread presence of
NPEs, carcinogenic amines (from azo dyes)
were found in two of the tested garments
The garment with the highest NPE content
was a screen printed t-shirt manufactured
and sold in Mexico
“Fast Fashion”
Accountability