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NSECTION N
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT(1+ and 2+ LIT RE)
General Description.
Section No. N.J
Section No. N.2
Section No. N.3
Section No. N.4
Section No. N.5
Section No. N.6
Section No. N.7
Section No. N.8
Section No. N.9
Section No. N.lO
Section No. N.J I
Section No. N.12
Section No. N.13
Section No. N.14
The battery.
The dynamo.
Removal and replacement of the dynamo.
Dismantling the dynamo.
Servicing the dynamo.
The starter.
Removal and replacement of the starter.
Servicing the starter.
The control box.
The windscreen wiper.
The Trafficators.
The electric horn.
The fuses.
Replacement bulbs.
Sections Nos. N.15 to N.26 The lamps.
Section No. N.27 Location and remedy of faults.
Section No. N.28 Correct acid level device on later models.
Wiring Diagrams.
GENERAL DESCRIPTIONThe 12-volt electrical equipment fitted incorporates
compensated voltage control for the charging circuit.The positive earth system of wiring is employed.
The battery is mounted on the dash under thebonnet and is readily accessible for examination andmaintenance.
The dynamo is mounted on the right of the cylinderblock on the 2~ litre engine and on the left of thecylinder block on the 1+ litre engine. The dynamo ineach case is driven by an endless belt from the enginecrankshaft. A pivot mounting and adjustable linkenable the belt tension to be adjusted.
The control box should not normally need attention.
The fuses are carried in external holders, as are thespare fuses, so that there is no need to remove thecontrol box cover to gain access to them.
The starter motor is mounted on the flywheelhousing on the left-hand side of the engine unit andoperates on the flywheel through the usual slidingpinion device.
The headlamps employ the double-filament dippingsystem. On early Home models the near-side lampbeam. is dipped and the off-side lamp extinguished onoperation of the dipping switch. On Export modelsand later Home models both lamps are fitted withdouble-filament bulbs, both dipping either to the rightor to the left according to the regulations existing inthe country concerned.
QRiley I~ and2-j Litre. Issue 2 (E) 78538—4/53 N. I
(1+ and 2+ LITRE)X ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Section N.1THE BATTERY
MODEL GTW.I IA (2~ LITRE)MODEL GTW.9A (l~ LITRE)
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
In order to keep the battery in good condition aperiodical inspection should be made and the followingcarried out(i) Topping up
About once a month (more often in warmerclimates) remove the vent plugs from the top of eachof the ~cellsand examine the level of the electrolyte.If necessary, add distilled water to the level of the topof the separators. Do not fill above this level, other-wise the excess electrolyte will be thrown out fromthe cell. An hydrometer will be found useful fortopping up, as it prevents the distilled water frombeing spilled on the top of the battery. Later carshave batteries fitted with a correct level device.(See Section N.28).
Note.—ln very cold weather it is essential that thecar be used immediately after topping up the batteryto ensure that the distilled water is thoroughly mixedwith the electrolyte. Neglect of this precaution may resultin the distilled water freezing, with consequent damageto the battery.
When examining the cells, do not hold naked lightsnear the vent holes, as there is a danger of igniting th~gas coming from the plates.
(ii) Testing the condition of the batteryOccasionally examine the condition of the battery
by taking hydrometer readings. There is no betterway of ascertaining the state of charge of the battery.The hydrometer contains a graduated float on which isindicated the specific gravity of the acid in the cellfrom which the sample is taken.
The specific gravity readings and their indicationsare as follows
I .280— l~300 Battery fully charged.About l~2l0 Battery about half-discharged.Below l~l50 Battery fully discharged.
These figures are given assuming an electrolytetemperature of 600 F. (160 C.). If the temperature ofthe electrolyte exceeds this, ~002must be added tohydrometer readings for each 50 F. (2.80 C.) rise togive the true specific gravity. Similarly ~002must besubtracted from hydrometer readings for every 50 F.(2.80 C.) below 600 F. (160 C.).
The readings for each of the cells should be approxi-mately the same. If one cell gives a reading verydifferent from the rest it may be that the electro-
te has been spilled or has leaked from one of the
cells or there may be an internal fault. In this caseit is advisable to have the battery examined by abattery specialist. Should the battery be in a lowstate of charge, it should be recharged by taking thecar for a long daytime run or by charging from anexternal source of D.C. supply at a current rate of5 amperes in the case of the GTW.9A battery of thel~ litre model or 7 amperes in the case of the GTW. IAbattery of the 2-~ litre model.After examining the battery, check the vent plugs,
making sure that the air passages are clear, and screwthe plugs into position. Wipe the top of the batteryto remove all dirt and moisture.
STORAGEIf a battery is to be out of use for any length of time
it should first be fully charged and then given a freshen-ing charge about every fortnight.
A battery must never be allowed to remain in adischarged condition, as this will cause the plates tobecome sulphated.
Fig. N.l.Topping up the battery celia with a Lucas battery filler.
INITIAL FILLING AND CHARGING
Usually, the battery will have been filled andinitially charged. If, however, it should be foundnecessary to prepare a new battery, supplied dry,proceed as follows(a) Preparation of electrolyteThe specific gravity of the electrolyte necessary to
fill the new battery, and the specific gravity at theend of the charge, are
ClimateOrdinarily below 800 F.
(270 C.)Between 80o~l000 F.Over 1000 F. (380 C.)
as follows5.G. of S.G. at end
filling acid of charge(corrected to 600 F. or 160 C.)
I•3501.3201.300
I •280— 1~3001.250—1.2701.220—I ~240
N.2 Riley 1+ and 2+ Litre, Issue 2 (E) 78538—4/53
(1+ and 2+ LITRE) ‘~‘ ‘~CTRICAL EQUIPMENT XThe electrolyte is prepared by mixing distilled
water and concentrated sulphuric acid 1.835 S.G.The mixing must be carried out in a lead-lined tankor a suitable glass or earthenware vessel. Steel oriron containers must not be used. The acid must beadded slowly to the water, while the mixture is stirredwith a glass rod. Never add the water to the acid,as the severity of the resulting chemical reaction mayhave dangerous consequences.
To produce electrolytegravity, use the followingdistilled water
To obtain specific gravity(corrected to 600 F. or 160 C.)
1.350l~3201.300
of the correct specificproportions of acid and
Add I part by volume ofI ~835S.G. acid to distilledwater by volume as below
l~8 parts2~22~5
Heat is produced by the mixture of acid and water,and it should, therefore, be allowed to cool beforepouring it into the battery, otherwise the plates,separators and moulded container may becomedamaged.
(b) Filling in and soakingThe temperature of the filling-in acid, battery and
charging room should be above 320 F. (00 C.).Carefully break the seals in the filling holes and
half fill each cell in the battery with dilute sulphuricacid solution of the appropriate specific gravity(according to temperature), see table in (a) above.The quantity of electrolyte required to half fill atwo-volt cell is ~ pint (.28 litre).
The mixing of the electrolyte with the water con-tamed in the separators, and the chemical action of thedilute acid upon the plates, especially the negativegroups, results in the generation of heat. The batteryshould, therefore, be allowed to stand for at leastsix hours before further electrolyte is added, therebyallowing the heat generated by the first filling to bemainly dissipated and avoiding an excessive tempera-ture rise which might cause damage to plates andcontainer.
After a lapse of this period add enough dilute acidto fill each cell to the top edge of the separators andallow to stand for a further two hours before com-mencing the charge.
(c) Duration and rate of initial chargeCharge at a constant current of 3~5 amps. in the case
of GTW.9A batteries on the IA litre model, or 4~5amps. in the case of the GTW.l IA batteries of the2A litre model, until the voltage and temperature-corrected specific gravity readings show no increase
over five successive hourly readings. This period isdependent upon the length of time the battery hasbeen stored since manufacture, and will be from fortyto eighty hours, but usually not more than sixty.
Throughout the charge the acid must be kept levelwith the top of the separators in each cell by theaddition of acid solution of the same specific gravityas the original filling-in acid.
If, during charge, the temperature of the acid inany cell of the battery reaches the maximum permis-sible temperature of 1200 F. (490 C.), the charge mustbe interrupted and the battery temperature allowedto fall at least 100 F. (5.50 C.) before charging isresumed.
At the end of the first charge, i.e. when specificgravity and voltage measurements remain substantiallyconstant, carefully check the specific gravity in eachcell to ensure that it lies within the limits specified.If any cell requires adjustment the electrolyte abovethe plates must be siphoned off, and replaced eitherwith acid of the strength used for the original filling in,or distilled water, according to whether the specificgravity is too low or too high respectively. Aftersuch adjustment the gassing charge should be con-tinued for one or two hours to ensure adequatemixing of the electrolyte. Re-check, if necessary,repeating the procedure until the desired result isobtained.
Section N.2
THE DYNAMOType
The dynamo is a Lucas Model C45PV.14, ServiceNo. 255218, on the 2A litre and Lucas Model C39PV,Service No. 22250F, on the IA litre. These identifi-cation marks are stamped on the yoke. When order-ing replacements always quote these numbers.
To test on vehicle(a) Make sure that belt slip is not occurring. The
belt should be capable of being deflectedapproxi-mately A in. (13 mm.) at the centre of its longestrun between two pulleys with moderate handpressure. If the belt is too slack, tightening iseffected by slackening the two bolts or bolt uponwhich the dynamo pivots, the bolt securing theslotted adjustment link to the engine and theSimmonds nut holding the dynamo to this link.Gently pull the dynamo outwards by hand untilthe correct tension is obtained. The slottedlink bolt must then be tightened, followed bythe other bolts.
N.3
X ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT (1+ and 2+ LITRE)
(b) Check that the dynamo and control box areconnected correctly, The dynamo terminal“ D should be connected to the control boxterminal “ D and the dynamo terminal “ Fconnected to the control box terminal “ F.”
(c) After switching off all lights and accessories,disconnect the cables from the terminals of thedynamo marked “ D ~‘ and “ F respectively.
(d) Connect the two terminals with a short lengthof wire.
(e) Start the engine and set it to run at normalidling speed.
(f) Clip the negative lead of a moving coil typevoltmeter, calibrated 0—20 volts, to one dynamoterminal and the other lead to a good earthingpoint on the dynamo yoke.
(g) Gradually increase the engine speed, when thevoltmeter reading should rise rapidly and with-out fluctuation. Do not allow the voltmeterreading to reach 20 volts. Do not race theengine in an attempt to increase the voltage.It is sufficient to run the dynamo up to a speedof 1,000 r.p.m.
If there is no reading—check the brush gear.If the reading is low (approximately I volt)
the field winding may be faulty.(h) Remove the dynamo cover band and examine
the brushes and commutator. Hold back each ofthe brush springs and move the brush bypulling gently on its flexible connector. If themovement is sluggish, remove the brush fromits holder and ease the sides by lightly polishingon a smooth file. Always replace brushes intheir original positions. If the brushes are wornso that they no longer bear on the commutator,or if the brush flexible has become exposed onthe running face, new brushes must be fitted.If the commutator is blackened or dirty, cleanit by holding a petrol-moistened cloth against itwhile the engine is turned slowly by hand-cranking. Re-test the dynamo if there is stillno reading on the voltmeter, there is an internalfault and the complete unit should be renewed,if a spare is obtainable.
If the dynamo is in good order, remove thetemporary link from between the terminals andrestore the original connections, taking care toconnect the dynamo terminal “ D “ to thecontrol box terminal “ D “ and the dynamoterminal “F” to the control box terminal “F.”Remove the lead from the “ D “ terminal onthe control box and connect the voltmeterbetween this cable and a good earthing pointon the vehicle. Run the engine as before. The
reading should be the same as that measureddirectly at the dynamo. No reading on thevoltmeter indicates a break in the cable to thedynamo. If the reading is correct test thecontrol box (see Section N.9).
Fig. N.2.Testing the tension of the brush springs with a spring
balance.
Section N.3
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENTOF THE DYNAMO
To remove the dynamo, slacken its attachment boltsand swing it towards the engine to give maximum beltslackness. Carefully free the belt’ from the dynamopulley.
Disconnect the dynamo leads from the terminals.Remove all bolts holding the machine to the engine
and lift the dynamo away.Replacement of the dynamo is an exact reversal of
this procedure.
Section N.4
DISMANTLING THE DYNAMOTake off the dynamo pulley.Remove the cover band, hold back the brush springs
and remove the brushes from their holders.With model C39PV dynamos unscrew the locking
nuts from the through bolts at the commutator endand withdraw the two through bolts from the drivingend.
With model C45PV dynamos unscrew and with-draw the two through bolts from the driving endbracket.
Remove the nut, spring washer and flat washer fromthe smaller terminal (i.e. field terminal) on the com-mutator end bracket and remove the bracket fromthe dynamo yoke.
N.4
(I~ and 2+ LITRE) ElECTRICAL EQUIiPMENT XThe driving end bracket, together with the armature,
can now be lifted out of the yoke.Note.—Take care not to lose the spring and cup from
the end of the armature shaft.The driving end bracket which, on removal from the
yoke, has withdrawn with it the armature and armatureshaft ball bearing need not be separated from theshaft unless the bearing is suspected and requiresexamination in which event the armature should beremoved from the end bracket by means of a handpress.
carefully polish with a strip of fine glass-paper whilerotating the armature. To remedy a badly worncommutator, mount the armature (with or withoutthe drive end bracket) in a lathe, rotate at high speedand take a light cut with a very sharp tool. Do notremove more metal than is necessary. Polish thecommutator with very fine glass-paper. Undercutthe insulators between the segments to a depth of~ in. (.8 mm.) with a hacksaw blade ground downto the thickness of the insulator.
TERMINAL NUTS& WASHERS
BEARING BRUSHBUSH SPRING
THROUGH COVER TERMINALBOLT BAND POST
Section N.5
SERVICING THE DYNAMOBrushes
Test if the brushes are sticking. Clean them withpetrol and, if necessary, ease the sides by lightlypolishing with a smooth file. Replace the brushes intheir original positions.
Test the brush spring tension with a spring scale ifavailable. The correct tension is 22 to 25 oz. (624 to710 gin.) for model C39PV and 36 to 44 oz. (1020 to1247 gin.) for model C45PV. Fit a new spring if thetension is low.
If the brushes are worn so that the flexible is exposedon the running face, new brushes must be fitted.Brushes are pre-formed so that bedding to the com-mutator is unnecessary.
CommutatorA commutator in good condition will be smooth and
free from pits or burned spots. Clean the commutatorwith a petrol-moistened cloth. If this is ineffective,
Field coilsTest the field coils, without removing them from
the dynamo yoke, by means of an ohmmeter. Thereading on the ohmmeter should be between 6~0 and6.3 ohms. If this is not available, connect a 12-voltD.C. supply with an ammeter in series between thefield terminal and dynamo yoke. The ammeterreading should be approximately 2 amps. If noreading is indicated the field coils are open-circuitedand must be renewed. To test for earthed field coils,unsolder the end of the field winding from the earthterminal on the dynamo yoke and, with a test lampconnected from supply mains, test across the fieldterminal and earth. If the lamp lights the field coilsare earthed and must be renewed.
When renewing field coils, carry out the procedureoutlined below, using an expander and wheel-operatedscrewdriver.
(a) Remove the insulation piece which is providedto prevent the junction of the field coils fromcontacting the yoke.
(b) Mark the yoke and pole shoes in order thatthey can be refitted in their original positions.
BEARINGBUSH
BRUSHES
Fig. N.3.Dynamo components.
II
N.5
(1+ and 2+ LITRE)N ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
(c) Unscrew the two pole shoe retaining screwsby means of the wheel-operated screwdriver.
(d) Draw the pole shoes and coils out of the dynamoyoke and lift off the coils.
INSULATION SEGMENTS
RIGHT WAY
INSULATION
WRONG WAYFig. N.4.
The correct method of undercutting the commutatorsegments.
(e) Fit the new field coils over the pole shoes andplace them in position inside the yoke. Takecare to ensure that the taping of the field coilsis not trapped between the pole shoes andthe yoke.
(f) Locate the pole shoes and field coils by lightlytightening the fixing screw.
(g) Insert the pole shoe expander, open it to thefullest extent and tighten the screws.
(h) Finally tighten the screws by means of thewheel-operated screwdriver and lock them bycaulking.
(i) Replace the insulation piece between the field.coil connections and the yoke.
ArmatureThe testing of the armature winding requires the
use of a voltage drop test and growler. If these arenot available the armature should be checked by.substitution. No attempt should be made to machinethe armature core or to true a distorted armatureshaft.
Fig. N.5.To fit the pole shoes correctly an expander of the type
illustrated is required.
BearingsBearings which are worn to such an extent that they
will allow side movement of the armature shaft mustbe renewed.
To replace the bearing at the commutator end,proceed as follows
(a) Press the bearing bush out of the commutatorend bracket.
(b) Press the new bearing bush into the end bracket,using a shouldered mandrel of the samediameter as the shaft which is to fit in thebearing.
Note.—Before fitting the new bearing bush it shouldbe allowed to stand completely immersed for twenty-fourhours in thin engine oil. This will allow the pores of thebush to be filled with lubricant.
Fig. N.6.The use ofa wheel-operated screwdriver is necessary toremove and replace the pole shoe attachment screws.
The ball bearing at the driving end is renewed asfollows
(a) Knock out the rivets which secure the bearingretaining plate to the end bracket and removethe plate.
(b) Press the bearing out of the end bracket andremove the corrugated washer, felt washerand oil-retaining washer.
(c) Before fitting the replacement bearing see thatit is clean and pack it with a high-melting-pointgrease.
(d) Place the oil-retaining washer, felt washer andcorrugated washer in the bearing housing inthe end bracket.
(e) Locate the bearing in the housing and press ithome by means of a hand press.
N.6
(1+ and 2+ LITRE) ‘~“~CTRICAL EQUIPMENT N(f) Fit the bearing retaining plate. Insert the new
rivets from the inside of the end bracket andopen the rivets by means of a punch to securethe plate rigidly in position.
Re assemblyIn the main the reassembly ofthe dynamo is a reversal
of the operations described in Section N.4.Before refitting the dynamo to the vehicle, unscrew
the lubricator from the commutator end bracket,lift out thefelt wick and spring and half-fill the cap withhigh-melting-point grease (see Ref. D, page P.2).Replace spring and wick and screw the lubricator inposition in the end bracket.
Section NAI
THE STARTERType
The starter on l{ litre models is a Lucas ModelM418G, Service No. 25521B, and on the 2A litreit is a Lucas Model M45G, Service No. 26043A.These identification marks are stamped on the yoke.
When ordering replacements always quote thesenumbers. Starters bearing different type numbershave been fitted to earlier models and it is thereforenecessary to check the type number stamped on thestarter fitted to the car concerned.
To test on vehicleSwitch on the lamps and operate the starter control.
If the lights go dim, but the starter is not heard tooperate, an indication is given that current is flowingthrough the windings, but that the pinion is meshedpermanently with the geared ring on the flywheel.In this case the starter must be removed from theengine for examination.
Should the lamps retain their full brilliance whenthe switch is operated, check that the switch isfunctioning. If the switch is in order, examine theconnections at the battery, starter switch and starter,and also check the wiring between these units.
Continued failure of the starter to operate indicatesan internal fault, and the instrument must be removedfrom the engine for examination.
Sluggish or slow action is usually caused by a poorconnection in the wiring which produces a highresistance in the starter circuit. Check as describedabove.
Damage to the drive is indicated if the starter isheard to operate but does not crank the engine.
Section N.7
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENTOF THE STARTER
To remove the starter, release the cable from thestarter terminal and unscrew the three bolts attachingthe flange to the flywheel housing. The unit can thenbe withdrawn without difficulty.
Fig. N.8.The method of inserting a new bush in the end cover.
Section N.3
SERVICING THE STARTERExamination of commutator and brush gear
Remove the cover band “A (Fig. N.9) andexamine the brushes “ B and the commutator
C.” Hold back each of the brush springs “ Dand move the brush by pulling gently on its flexibleconnector. If the movement is sluggish, remove thebrush from its holder “ E and ease the sides bylightly polishing on a smooth file. Always replacebrushes in their original positions. If the brushes are
PINION RESTRAINING PINION ScREWED SLEEVESPRING
~R WASHER MAIN SPRING
Fig. N.7.
The starter pinion assembly.
N.7
N ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT (1+ and 2+ LITRE)
worn so that they no longer bear on the commutator,or if the brush flexible has become exposed on therunning face, they must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened or dirty, clean it byholding a petrol-moistened cloth against it while thearmature is rotated.
Secure the body of the starter in a vice and test byconnecting it with heavy gauge cables to a battery ofthe correct voltage. One cable must be connectedto the starter terminal and the other held against
IP-USH NOLDEP.
BRU5HES CQV~.P- SAND
~P-USHSPP-INGS C.OMMUTATO~Fig. N.9.
The starter brush gear.
the starter body or end bracket. Under these lightload conditions, the starter should run at a very highspeed.
If the operation is still unsatisfactory, the startershould be dismantled for detailed inspection and testing.
DismantlingRemove the cover band, hold back the brush springs
and lift the brushes from their holders.Withdraw the terminal nuts and washers from the
terminal post.Unscrew the two through bolts and withdraw the
commutator end bracket.Remove the driving end bracket complete with
armature and drive from the starter yoke.
Brushes(a) Test the brush springs with a spring scale. The
correct tension is 30—40 oz. (850—1134gm.).Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
(b) If the brushes are worn so that they no longerbear on the commutator, or if the flexible con-nector has become exposed on the running face,
they must be renewed. Two of the brushesare connected to terminal eyelets “A (Fig.N.I I) attached to the brush boxes “ B” onthe commutator end bracket, and two brushes(Fig. N.l0) are connected to tappings on thefield coils.
The flexible connectors must be removed by un-soldering and the connectors of the new brushessecured in their place by soldering. The brushes arepre-formed so that bedding of their working faces tothe commutator is unnecessary.
Drive(a) If the pinion is tight on the screwed sleeve,
wash away any dirt with paraffin.(b) If any parts are worn or damaged they must be
renewed.(c) Remove the cotter pin from the shaft nut at
the end of the starter drive. Hold the squaredstarter shaft extension at the commutator endby means of a spanner and unscrew the square
shaft nut. Lift off the main spring, washer,screwed sleeve with pinion, collar, pinionrestraining spring and spring restraining sleeve.
CommutatorA commutator in good condition will be smooth and
free from pits and burned spots. Clean with a petrol-moistened cloth. If this is ineffective, carefully polishwith a strip of fine glass-paper, while rotating thearmature. To remedy a badly worn commutator,dismantle the starter drive as described ab9ve andremove the armature from the end bracket. Now
Fig. N.lO.The starter brush leads.
N.8
(I~ and 2~ LITRE) ‘~‘ ~TRICAL EQUIPMENT XU~flAUA~~,
mount the armature in a lathe, rotate it at a high speedand take a light cut with a very sharp tool. Do notremove any more metal than is absolutely necessary,and finally polish with very fine glass-paper.The insulation on the starter commutator must
not be undercut.
Field coilsThe field coils can be tested for continuity by con-.
necting a 12-volt battery with a 12-volt bulb in seriesbetween the tapping points of the field coils at whichthe brushes are connected. Failure of the lamp tolight indicates an open circuit in the wiring of thefield coils.
Lighting of the lamp does not necessarily mean thatthe field coils are in order, as it is possible that oneof them may be earthed to a pole shoe or to the yoke.This may be checked with a test lamp connected fromthe supply mains, the test lead being connected.to oneof the field coil tapping points and to a clean part ofthe yoke. Should the lamp light, it indicates that thefield coils are earthed to the yoke.
Should the above tests indicate that the fault lies inthe field coils, they must be renewed. When renewingfield coils carry out the procedure detailed in theDynamo Section N.5.
ArmatureExamination of the armature will in many cases
reveal the cause of failure, e.g. conductors lifted fromthe commutator due to the starter being engagedwhile the engine is running and causing the armatureto be rotated at an excessive speed. A damagedarmature must in all cases be renewed—no attemptshould be made to machine the armature core or totrue a distorted armature shaft.
/Bearings (commutator end)
Bearings which are worn to such an extent that theywill allow excessive side play of the armature shaft
must be renewed. To renew the bearing bush,proceed as follows
(a) Press the new bearing bush into the endbracket, using a shouldered mandrel of thesame diameter as the shaft which is to fit inthe bearing.
Note.—The bearing bush is of the porousphosphor-bronze type and, before fitting, newbushes should be allowed to stand completelyimmersed for twenty-four hours in thin engineoil in order to fill the pores of the bush withlubricant.
ReassemblyThe reassembly of the starter is a reversal of the
operations described in this Section.
Section N.9
TH~ CONTROL BOXRegulator adjustment
The regulator is carefully set before leaving theWorks to suit the normal requirements of the standardequipment, and in general it should not be necessaryto alter it. If, however, the battery does not keep in
FUSES IN CIRCUITSOF ACCESSORIES
Fig. N.12.The control box]on the earlier models, showing the location ofthe fuses. On later models they are carried in a separate fuse
box (see Section N.13).
a charged condition, or if the dynamo output does notfall when the battery is fully charged, it may beadvisable to check the setting and, if necessary, toreadjust it.
It is important, before altering the regulator setting,when the battery is in a low state of charge, to checkthat its condition is not due to a battery defect or tothe dynamo belt slipping.
BRUSH BOXES
Fig. N.h.
The starter end cover.
N.9
X ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT (1+ and 2+ LITRE)
How to check and adjust electrical settingThe regulator setting can be checked without re-
moving the control box cover.Withdraw the cables from the terminals marked
“A “ and “ A.I “ at the control box and join themtogether. Connect the negative lead of a movingcoil voltmeter (0—20 volts full scale reading) to the
D “ terminal on the dynamo and connect the otherlead from the meter to a convenient chassis earth.
Slowly increase the speed of the engine until thevoltmeter needle “ flicks “ and then steadies ; thisshould occur at a voltmeter reading between the limitsgiven below for the appropriate temperature of theregulator.
Setting at l0~ C. (500 F.) l6~l—l6.7 volts200 C. (680 F.) l5~8—l6.43Q0 C. (860 F.) 15•6—16•24Q0 C. (l04~ F.) 15.3—15.9
If the voltage at which the reading becomes steadyoccurs outside these limits, the regulator must beadjusted.
Switch off the engine, remove the control box cover,release the locknut “A “ (Fig. N.13) holding theadjusting screw “ B “ and turn the screw in a clock-wise direction to raise the setting or in an anti-clockwise direction to lower the setting. Turn theadjusting screw a fraction of a turn and then tightenthe locknut.
When the dynamo is run at a high speed on opencircuit, it builds up a high voltage. When adjustingthe regulator, do not run the engine up to more thanhalf throttle or a false voltmeter reading will beobtained.
Mechanical settingThe mechanical setting of the regulator is accurately
adjusted before leaving the Works and, provided thatthe armature carrying the moving contact is notremoved, the regulator will not require mechanicaladjustment. If, however, the armature has beenremoved from the regulator for any reason, thecontacts will have to be reset. To do this, proceed asfollows
(i) Slacken the two armature fixing screws “ E(Fig. N.14). Insert a ~0l8in. (.46 mm.) feelergauge between the back of the armature “ Aand the regulator frame.
(ii) Press back the armature against the regulatorframe and down onto the top of the bobbincore with the gauge in position and lock thearmature by tightening the two fixing screws.
WITH ARMATURE PRESSED TO COREFig. N.14.
The mechanical adluatment for the regulator.
(iii) Check the gap between the under side of thearm and the top of the bobbin core. Thismust be ~0l2 in. to .020 in. (.30 mm. to .51mm.). If the gap is outside these limits.correct by adding or removing shims “ F “
(Fig. N.14) at the back of the fixed contact.
(iv) Remove the gauge and press the armaturedown, when the gap between the contacts.should be between .006 in. (.15 mm.) and~0l7in. (•43 mm.).
Fig. N.13.The cut-out and regulator assembly.
N. 10
(1+ and 2+ LITRE) Z2iUAUA~~‘ ‘~TRICAL EQUIPMENT XCleaning contacts
To render the regulator contacts accessible forcleaning, slacken the screws securing the plate carryingthe fixed contact. It will be necessary to slacken theupper screw “ C (Fig. N.13) a little more than thelower “ D,” so that the contact plate can be swungoutwards. Clean the contacts ~bymeans of fine car-borundum stone or fine emery-cloth. Carefully wipeaway all traces of dirt or other foreign matter. Finallytighten the securing screws.
Adjustment CUT-OUTIf It is suspected that the cutting-in speed of the
dynamo is too high, connect a voltmeter between theterminals marked “ D and “ E at the control boxand slowly raise the engine speed. When the volt-meter reading rises to between l2~7 and I3~3 the cut-out contact should close.
If the cut-out has become out of adjustment andoperates at a voltage outside these limits it must bereset. To make the adjustment, slacken the locknut“ E “ (Fig. N.13), turn the adjusting screw “ F ~‘ afraction of a turn in a clockwise direction to raise theoperating voltage or in an anti-clockwise direction tolower the voltage. Tighten locknut after making theadjustment.
CleaningTo clean the contacts remove the cover, place a
strip of fine glass-paper between the contacts andthen, closing the contacts by hand, draw the paperthrough. This should be done two or three times,with the rough side towards each contact.
Radio suppressionWhen it is desired to fit suppressors for radio
equipment, make sure that this is done only in accor-dance with recommended practice. Suppressors andcapacitors wrongly fitted may cause damage to theelectrical equipment.
Section N.1OTHE WINDSCREEN WIPER
Normally the windscreen wiper will not requireany servicing apart from the occasional renewal ofthe rubber blades.
Should any trouble be experienced, first check forloose connections, worn insulation, etc., before dis-mantling the motor.I. To detach the cable rack from the motor and gearbox
Remove the gearbox cover. Remove the split pinand washer from the crank pin and final gear wheel.Lift off the connecting link.
t
II
THRUST SCREW & BALLFig. N.15.
The wiper motor and gearbox.
N. II
X ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT (1+ and 2+ LITRE)
2. Commutator dirtyRemove the connecting leads to the terminals,
withdraw the three screws securing the cover at thecommutator end. Lift off the cover. Clean thecommutator with a cloth moistened with petrol andcarefully remove any carbon dust from between thesegments.
3. Brush lever stiffor brushes not bearing on commutatorCheck that the brushes bear freely on the com-
mutator. If they are loose, and do not make contact,a replacement tension spring is necessary. The brushlevers must be free on their pivots. If they are stiffthey should be freed by working them backwards andforwards by hand and by applying •a trace of thinmachine oil. Packing shims are fitted beneath thelegs of the brush levers to ensure tl~at the brushes arecentral and that there is no possibility of the brushboxes fouling the commutator. If the brushes areconsiderably worn they must be renewed.
4. Motor operates but does not transmit motion tospindles
Remove the cover of the gearbox. A push-pullmotion should be transmitted to the inner cable ofthe flexible rack, If the cross-head moves sluggishlybetween the guides, lightly smear a small amount ofmedium grade engine oil in the groove formed in thedie-cast housing. When overhauling, the gear mustbe lubricated by lightly packing the gearbox with agrease to Ref. D (page P.2).
Section N.1l
THE TRAFFICATORSRemoving the Trafficators
Unscrew the three Phillips screws holding the smallcrescent-shaped piece of trim in position. There arealso two panel pins, one at either end. Lift offthe trim.
Remove four screws (two on each clamp plate)holding the Trafficator box in position, and lift outthe unit. When reassembling make quite sure thatthe waterproofing strip, between the Trafficator boxand the body side is in good order.
Replacement of TrafficatorsReplacement •of the Trafficator arm is a reversal
of the procedure for removal.
Removing the armDrill out the rivet securing the arm to the bracket.Remove the Trafficator arm cover and withdraw the
cable and bulb.Open out the clip securing the cable to the arm of
the Trafficator and remove the arm.
Fig. N.16.
Method of removing the Trafficator assembly. Notethat the trim is held with panel pins as well as screws.
RIVET
ARM LIFTING PLATE
Fig. N.h.The Trafficator arm hinge mechanism.
Replacement of the armPlace the new arm in position so that the arm stop
pin locates between the arm lifting plate and lockingplate (Fig. N.17).Secure it in this position by fitting a new rivet.Remove the arm cover, replace the cable and bulb
and refit the cover.Finally secure the cable to the arm by means of the
clip, taking care to see that the bending over of theclip does not damage the cable or its insulating cover-ing. Also see that when the Trafficator is operatedthe cable can move in a wide arc.
%RM LOCKING
P LATE
N. 12
(1+ and 2+ LITRE) 1~tFCTflIC Al. EQUIPMENT XSection N.12
THE ELECTRIC HORNAll horns before being passed out are adjusted to
give their best performance and will give a long periodof service without attention.
If one of the horns fails or becomes uncertain in itsaction, it does not follow that the horn has brokendown. First ascertain that the trouble is not due to aloose or broken connection in the wiring of the horn.If both.horns fail or become uncertain in action, thetrouble is probably due to a blown fuse or dischargedbattery. If the fuse has blown, examine the wiring forthe fault and replace with the spare fuse provided.
It is also possible that the performance of a hornmay be upset by the fixing bolt working loose, or bysome component near the horn being loose. Check
the attachments for tightness, and if the trouble isnot rectified the horn may need adjustment, but thisshould not be necessary until the horns have been inservice for a long period.
Adjustment does not alter the pitch of the note,it merely takes up wear of moving parts. Whenadjusting the horns, short-circuit the fuse, otherwise itis liable to blow. Again, if the horns do not sound onadjustment, release the push instantly.
When making adjustments to a horn, always dis-connect the supply lead of the other horn, taking careto ensure that it does not come into contact with anypart of the chassis and so cause a short circuit.
AdjustmentRemove the fixing screw from the top of the horn
and take off the cover. Detach the cover securingbracket by springing it out of its location.
Slacken the locknut on the fixed contact and rotatethe adjusting nut until the contacts are just separated(indicated by the horn failing to sound). Turn theadjusting nut half a turn in the opposite direction andsecure it in this position by tightening the locknut.
Section N.13FUSES
The fuses are accessible without removing the coverof the control box on earlier models and are equallyaccessible on the separate fuse box on later models.
Fuse marked “ AUX (early models)Fuse ccnrlecting “Al and “A2” (later models)
This fuse protects the accessories which are con-nected so that they operate irrespective of whetherthe ignition switch is “ on ~ or “ off.”
Fig. N.19.The appearance of a burnt-out fuse.
Fuse marked “AUX IGN (early models)Fuse connecting “A3 and “A4” (later models)
This fuse protects the accessories which are con-nected so that they operate only when the ignition isswitched on.
Units protectedThe units which are protected by each fuse can
readily be identified by referring to the wiring diagramson pages N.17—N.22.
Blown fusesA blown fuse is indicated by the failure of all the
units protected by it, and is confirmed by examinationof the fuse, which can easily be withdrawn from thespring clips in which it fits. If it has blown, the fusedstate of the wire will be visible inside the glass tube.
Fig. N.20.The separate fuse box fitted]to later models.
Before replacing a blown fuse, inspect the wiring of theunits that have failed for evidence of a short circuit orother faults which may have caused the fuse to blow,and remedy the cause of the trouble. This is essentialor the fuse is liable to blow again on replacement.
Fig. N.18.The horn contacts.
FUSES
Riley 1+ and 2+ Litre. Issue 3 (E) 78538—4/53 N. 13
X ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Section N.14REPLACEMENT BULBS
Headlamps, Home (L/H), early modelsHeadlamps, Home (R/H), early modelsHeadlamps, Export (RHD) and later Home models
Headlamps, Export (LHD) ...
Headlamps, Export (Europe except France)Sidelamps, stop- and tail-lamp and roof lampTrafficators ... ... ...
Warning and panel lights ...
Reverse lamp ... ... ...
Fog-lamps
Lucas No.300 (dip left)
162354 (dip left)301 (dip right)
360207
256987
57
162
Section N.15THE HEADLAMPS
The design of the headlamp and its holder is suchthat the bulb is correctly positioned in relation to thereflector. No special attention to focusing is requiredwhen a replacement bulb is fitted.
In short, the lamps are of the pre-focused type,with replaceable bulbs.
The anti-dazzle deviceEarly Home models are equipped with double-
filament bulbs in the left-hand headlamp, controlledby the, dipping switch. Operation of the dip switchextinguishes the right-hand lamp and simultaneouslydeflects the left-hand headlamp beam downwards andto the left to provide good illumination of the left-hand kerb.
On Export models and later Home models bothheadlamps are fitted with double-filament main bulbs.
Operation of the dip switch extinguishes the maindriving beam in each headlamp and brings the dippedbeams into action.
Export cars have lighting equipment modified to suitthe regulations existing in the countries concerned.
Section N.16THE LIGHT UNITS
- The light units consist of a lamp glass, reflector, and~ back shell. The light unit is located to the front wingby three spring-loaded attachment screws in a domedrecess. The back of the lamp is therefore sealed togive complete protection.
A dust- and weather-excluding rubber is fitted inthe recess of the rim of the light unit and a plated rimis contracted onto this to complete the weather
sealing. When replacing a broken lamp glass makesure that a correct replacement is used as the forma-tion of the prisms varies with the different lightingconditions (dip right, dip left, etc.).
Section N.17REMOVING THE LIGHT UNITS
To remove the light unit for bulb replacement,unscrew the contracting screw at the bottom of theplated lamp rim and lift the rim away from the dust-excluding rubber.
Remove the dust-excluding rubber, which will revealthe three spring-loaded screws. Press the light unitinwards against the tension of the springs and turn itin an anti-clockwise direction until the heads of thescrews can pass through the enlarged ends of thekeyhole slots in the lamp rim.
This will enable the light unit to be withdrawnsufficiently to give attention to the wiring and bulbs.
Section N.13REPLACING A HEADLAMP BULB
Withdrawal of the light unit gives immediate accessto the bulb holder at the back of the reflector.
Twist the l~ulb holder in an anti-clockwise directionand pull it off. The bulb can now be withdrawn fromits holder complete with its locating flange, which isan integral part of the bulb.
Insert the replacement bulb in the holder, makingsure that the slot in the periphery of the bulb flangeengages the projection in the holder.
Engage the projections on the bulb holder with theslots of the light unit, press it on and secure it bytwisting it clockwise.
(1+ and 2+ LITRE)
Volts12121212121212121212
Watts36/36
3642/3636/36
45/35632~2
3636
N. 14 Riley 1+ and 2+ Litre. Issue 3 (E) 78538—4153
(1+ and 2+ LITRE) 1~LECTRICAL EQUIPMENT XSection N.19
REFITTING THE LIGHT UNITSPosition the light unit so that the heads of the
adjusting screws coincide with the enlarged ends ofthe attachment slots. Push the light unit towardsthe wing to compress the springs and turn the unitto the right as far as it will go, that is, approximately~ in .(13 mm.).
Replace the dust-excluding rubber on the light rimwith its flanged face forward and refit the plated rim.
Section N.20SETTING THE HEADLAMPS
The lamps should be set so that the main drivingbeams are parallel with the road surface or in accor-dance with local regulations.
If adjustment is required, this is achieved by remov-ing the plated rim and dust-excluding rubber asindicated in Section N.17.
Vertical adjustment can then be made by turningthe screw at the top of the lamp in the necessarydirection.
Horizontal adjustment can be effected by using theadjustment screws on each side of the light unit.
Section N.21CLEANING THE LAMPS
Care must be taken when handling lamp reflectorsto prevent them from becoming finger-marked. Atransparent and colourless protective covering enablesany finger-marks to be removed by polishing with achamois leather or a very soft dry cloth. Do not usemetal polish on reflectors.Chromium-plated surfaces such as lamp rims should
be washed with plenty of water, and when the dirt iscompletely removed they may be polished with achamois leather or soft dry cloth. Do not use metalpolish on chromium plating.
Section N.22SIDELAMPS
Remove the fixing screw at the top of the lamp andwithdraw the front. The bulb is then accessible inthe lamp body.
Section N.23STOP, TAIL AND REVERSE LAMPS
To gain access to the bulbs, slacken the singlesecuring screw and swing open the lamp front.
Section N.24
THE PANEL LAMPSAccess to all the panel illuminating and warning
lights is attained by removing the six Phillips screwsholding the front of the panel to its brackets.
When the panel has been moved away the bulbswill be revealed.
Section N.25
THE IGNITION AND LAMP WARNINGLIGHTS
There is a small amber light, situated on the instru-ment panel, which glows when the headlamps are inthe undipped position. A red warning light glowswhen the ignition is switched on and the dynamo isnot being driven fast enough to produce sufficientcurrent for charging purposes.
The bulbs are identical to the instrument panellamps and fitted in the same manner. Access to themis obtained by removing the six Phillips screws attach-ing the instrument panel to its brackets and with-drawing the panel.
Section N.26
THE ROOF LAMPSThe plastic covers to the roof lamps are secured by
springing them into position. Each cover has fourprojections. Engage the lower two and -then springthe remaining two into their slots. Removal is areversal of this process.
The bulbs are of the festoon type, Lucas No. 207,12-volt, 6-watt, and they only come into operationwhen the switches are moved and the sidelamps arealight.
Section N.27
LOCATION AND REMEDY OF FAULTSAlthough every precaution is taken to eliminate
possible causes of trouble, failure may occasionallydevelop through lack of attention to the equipmentor damage to the wiring. The following pages set outthe recommended procedure for a systematic examina-tion to locate and remedy the causes of some of themore usual faults encountered.
The sources of trouble are by no -means alwaysobvious, and in some cases a considerable amount ofdeduction from the symptoms is needed before thecause is disclosed.
I
N. 15
(I~ and 2+ LITRE)X ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
For instance, the engine might not respond to thestarter switch ; a hasty inference would be that thestarter motor is at fault. However, as the motor isdependent on the battery, it may be that the batteryis exhausted.
This, in turn, may be due to the dynamo failing tocharge the battery, and the final cause of the troublemay be, perhaps, a loose connection in some part ofthe charging circuit.
If, after carrying out an examination, the cause ofthe trouble is not found, the equipment should bechecked by the nearest Lucas Service Depot or. Agent.
CHARGING CIRCUIT
Battery in low state of charge
(a) This state will be shown by lack of power whenstarting, poor light from the lamps, and hydro-meter readings below 1.200. It may be due tothe dynamo not charging or giving low orintermittent output. The ignition warning lightwill not go out if the dynamo fails to charge,or will flicker on and off in the event of inter-mittent output.
(b) Examine the charging and field circuit wiring,tightening any loose connections or renewingbroken cables. Pay particular attention to thebattery connections.
(c) Examine the dynamo driving belt ; take upany undue slackness by swinging the dynamooutwards on its mounting after slackening theattachment bolts.
(d) Check the regulator setting and adjust ifnecessary.
(e) If, after carrying out the above, the trouble isstill not cured, have the equipment examinedby a Lucas Service Depot or Agent.
2. Battery overcharged
(a) This will be indicated by burnt-out bulbs, veryfrequent need for topping up the battery, andhigh hydrometer readings. Check the ammeterreading when the car is running steadily witha fully charged battery and no lights or acces-sories in use ; the charge reading should be ofthe order of only 3—4 amperes.
If the ammeter reading is in excess of thisvalue it is advisable to check the regulatorsetting and adjust if necessary.
STARTER MOTOR
Starter motor lacks power or fails to turn engine(a) See if the engine can be turned over by hand.
If not, the cause of the stiffness in the enginemust be located and remedied.
(b) If the engine can be turned by hand, firstcheck that the trouble is not due to a dis-charged battery.
(c) Examine the connections to the battery, starterand starter switch, making sure that they aretight and that the cables connecting these unitsare not damaged.
(d) It is also possible that the starter pinion. mayhave jammed in mesh with the flywheel,although this is by no means a common occur-rence. To disengage the pinion, rotate thesquared end of the starter shaft by means of aspanner.
2. Starter operates but does not crank engineThis fault will occur if the pinion of the starter
drive is not allowed to move along the screwedsleeve into engagement with the flywheel, due todirt having collected on the screwed sleeve.Remove the starter and clean the sleeve carefully
-with paraffin.
3. Starter pinion will not disengage from flywheel whenengine is running
Stop the engine and see if the starter pinion isjammed in mesh with the flywheel, releasing it ifnecessary by rotation of the squared end of thestarter shaft. If the pinion persists in stickingin mesh, have the equipment examined at aService Depot. Serious damage may result to thestarter if it is driven by the flywheel.
LIGHTING CIRCUITSLamps give insufficient illumination
(a) Test the state of charge of thecharging it if necessary from anelectrical supply.
(b) Check the setting of the lamps.(c) If the bulbs are discoloured as the result of
long service, they should be renewed.
2. Lamps light when switched on but gradually fade outAs paragraph I (a).
3. Brilliance varies with speed of car(a) As paragraph I (a).(b) Examine the battery connections, making sure
that they are tight, and renew any faulty cables.
battery, re-independent
N. 16
WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1~ LITRE SALOON (EXPORT, L.H.D.) 1949/51REVERSE TAIL
LAMPSTOP TAIL
LAMP ScA EERW1PER
221‘7
23
REVERSELAMP
SWITCH
(I
CLOCK
44 ~—.-.44
PANELLIGHT
240 QPETROL PANETANK OHUNT~ RHEOS A I
STAR ERSTARTER SWTCH
.3 AMMETER
~i
7,1
33
)
12 VOLT BATTERY
~RIGHT-HAND) (LEFT-HAND)
.5~-> I.
21 lB
JF7ILT~SNAP
CONNECTORS
liii.
PANEL _
LIGHT
FOG LAMP ISWITCH I
ciDiSTARTER
PUSH
INTERIOR LIGHTSWITCH
INTERIOR ILIGHT
57
HORN PUSHTRAFFICATOR
SWITCH
21LlB17...
1 2’f~—
41 4 2
57 4 2
41 MAIN SIPFILAMENT FILAMENT
4
SID EL AMP
HEADLAMP FOG LAMP(RIGHT. HANG)
B I
2 Blue with Red3 Blue with Yellow4 Blue with WhiteS Blue with Green6 Blue with Purple7 Blue with BrownB Blue w,th Black9 White
10 White with RedII White with Yellow12 White with Blue13 White with Green
KEY
14 White with PurpleIS White with Brown16 White with Blatk17 Green18 Green with RedIV Green with Yellow
20 Green with Blue21 Green with White22 Green with Purple23 Green with Brown24 Green with Black25 Yellow26 Yellow with Red
HEADLAMPMAIN BEAM
W~T
IGNITIONWARNING
LIGHT K
49 66 49
.9WINOTONE
HORNS
TO CABLE CO
27 Yellow with Blue28 Yellow with White29 Yellow with Green30 Yellow with Purple31 Yellow with Brown32 Yellow with Black33 Brown34 Brown with Red35 Brown with Yellow36 Brown with Blue37 Brown with White38 Brown with Green39 Brown with Purple
36
39
SCREENWIPERSWITCH
~ /ZN e~
PETROLGAUGE
17
HEATERWARN ING
—~ LIGHTDIGNITION 36
~SWITCH~
- —I
K4
OPPERSWITCH
~ELLIGHTS
17 23 23
HEATER—~) RHEOSTAT
HEATERLIGHTING MOTOR
SWITCH
RF9S. CONTROL BOX
RISC
~~~NWNOS29 1JECU~2•— 5
F ONTACtS
-- SASSISVANO 8
S
S
9
A
29 — 25
DYNAMOj B
I SISTR BUTOR
SNAPCONNECTORS
S7DIP 4 4
FILAMENT MAiNF LAMENT
BDELAMP
FOG LAMP HEAD AMP( EFT I-lAND) W9SB6
LOU RS
40 Brown with Black41 Red42 Red with Yellow43 Red with Blue44 Red with White45 Red with Green46 Red with Purple47 Red with Brown48 Red with Black49 Purple50 Purple with Red51 Purple with Yellow52 Purple with Blue
53 Purple with White54 Purple with Green55 Purple with Brown56 Purple with Black57 Black58 Black with Red59 Black with Yellow60 Black with Blue61 Black with White62 Black with Green63 Black with Purple64 Black with Brown65 Dark Green66 LiEhc Green
157
L LI
RN. 17
(1+ and 2+ LITRE)N ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1~ LITRE SALOON AND 2~ LITRE SALOON AND COUPJ~(HOME AND R.LI.D. EXPORT) 1949/51
S7
22j STOP
j~ LAMPSWITCh17
23
171 I 17
V EUE Ru KLAMP
SWITCH
(CLOCK
44 ,~T7 44
-
PANELLIGHT
/
44 41
PETROL PANELTANK LIGHTUNIT RHEOSTAr
~ 10
SOLENOIDSTARTER
STARTER SWITCH
12 VOLT BATTERY
•~4I
TRAFFICATOR TRAFFICATOR
(RIGHT HAND) (LEFT HAND)
I.
21 IV
lB
21‘=1 174124
SIDELAMP
SNAPCONNECTORS
57
S7 2MAIN \ DIP
FILAMENT FILAMENT
HEADLAMP(RIGHT. HAND)
REVERSE TAILLAMP
41
AMMETER
441
PANEOH
00 AMP I
SW~LY20STARTER
PUSH
INTERIOR LIGHTSWITCH
41
INTERIORLIGHT~
-S7p~
HORN PUSH 6TRAFFICATOR
SW TCH
I9
7 2
56
Lj~j
FOG LAMP
JUNCTION505
HEADLAMPN BEAM
WARN~~jT
STOP TAILLAMP
4~2
PETROLGAUGE
17
~T4~___________ 24
9 2S
K>IONITIONWARNING
LIGHT
P
1
36
I-36
(b PANELI] .4 LIGHT4 HEATER
WARN NO.— LIGHT
IGNITION 36
— SWITCH ,-
FTN~- -4--~
1
49 56 4992WINOTON c
HORNS
.1DIPPERSWITCH
I:
4
Key to Cable colours as on page N.17.
SCREENWIPER
5CR EEN AlPERSWITCH
67 62‘A
62 L..
r17
LIGHTS
17 23 23 —
HEATER .1RHEOSTAT
HEATERLIGHTING MOTOR
S WITCH
RF9S CONTROL 905
47 ,—. ~ SEll PAucunos
29~ S
F CunPuer
— ~ euSlSruneS
50 50 05
{SCCCASuRIE$ PUSS,\U4J~W”~S9t’
29
(c
29 ___ 25
F V
DYNAMO
25) JUNCTION905
57PETROLPUMP
9
NOT FITTED TOI~3 LITRE MODELS
9 SW
COIL
11I6
DISTRIBUTOR57
.3
SNAPCONNECTORS
2 467
DIP MAIN42 FILAMENT FILAMENT
FOG LAMP HEADLAMP(LEFT.HAN~ 5.9557,.
41
41
SID EL AMA
0
I
3
1N.j 8
~“~TRICAL EQUIPMENT XWIRING DIAGRAM FOR 4 LITRE SALOON AND COUPE (EXPORT, L.H.D.) 1949/51
WITH COMBINED CONTROL AND FUSE BOXREVERSE TAIL
LAMP
~4I
STOP TAILLAMP SCREENWIPER
S CHEE NWIPEP
SWITCH
57 <C> 62 62
22 I STOPLAMPWITCH
17
23
17( 17
REVERSELAMP
SWITCH
(44 J41
PETROL PANELASK GH
SN RHEOS A
ENODSTAR ER
S AR ER SWITCH
--- ~3
12 VOLT BATTERY
CLOCK
44 .—~44
33
I)
AMMUTER MAIN BEAMWARNING LIGHT
PANES
00 AMP
SW C~I
421 o
f4I PUSH
INTERIOR LIGHTSWITCH
INTERIORLIGHT
57
rM-
K>IGNITIONWARNING
LIGHT
1~~36
36
[I
OASOE
17
124
PANELLIGHT -
-
- -
I-Ill ITRAFFICATOR TRAFFICATORIPIGHT-HAND) (LEFT.HAND)
I .~, I,
21 lB
t-7KL~jJj4
5’
41 4 2
57 4 2
41 MAIN DIPFILAMENT FILAMENT
SIDELAMP
HEADLAMP(RIGHT HAND)
HORN PUSH 6TRAFFICATOR
SWITCH
ISIT 211
-~
7
FOG LAMP
49 56 49
99WIND TONE
HORNS
29 2SPETROL- ~ g.
I, PUMP
9
29 25
/ 9 SW
CS COIL
16
DYNAMO
57 000 0’
DISTRIBUTOR
ICO~NECTORS ii 41
DIPFILAMENT ,‘ MAIN -.
FILAMENT, <-
I~I I~I SIDELAMP
FOG AM5 HSADLAMP(LEFT-HAND) WBSSSI
PANELLIGHT
HEATERWARNING
~ LIGHT
DIPPERSWITCH
~ELLIGHTS
HEATER
RHEOSTAT
HEATERMOTORLIGHTING
SWITCH
NTROL SOY
—o--———E—sS NruCfl
5555
MuIA. uNITIeS SW157> JUNCTION
BOX I
Key to cable colours as on page N.17.
1(2+ LITRE)
I. L
CONNECTORSSNAP
________ — I I
N. 19
(1+ and 2+ LITRE)N ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1~ AND 2~ LITRE SALOONS (HOME AND R.H.D. EXPORT)1951/52 WITH SEPARATE CONTROL AND FUSE BOXES
221 STOP
i~ LAMPSWITCH
17
23
IT~ I 17
REVERSELAMP
SWITCH
REVERSE TAIL
LAMP
23 I] N41
CLOCK I—l~ AMMETER
37
3344 —-4-44
PANELLIGHT
PANELLIGHT
LAMPSWITCH
~IO~
STARTERPUSH
—---4
SfAR
INTERIOR LIGHTSWITCH
457
INTERIORLIGHT
STOP TAILLAMP
41 22• ST
HEADLAMPMAIN BEAM
WARNING LIGHT
~24,4~
K>IGNITIONWARNING
LIGHT
4
(~ PANELLIGHT
HEATERWARNING
LIGHT
IGNITION 36
SCREENWIPER
SCREENRIP ER
SWITCH
62
<=262
—— .1
PANELLIGHTS
HEATERMOTOR
IT ,23 23—v HEATERRHEOSTAT
LIGHTINGSWITCH
— — — — IS
CONTROL 503
TA SCeleS
ISeSeuCTS 52RF251 IS
55~5
57 57
1•1111 — — _________ — -~
II
IIIR
FC ORHAND
ILl I4’~
SNAP 2CONNECTORS 42
57
4
57 —2
MAIN DIPFILAMENT FILAMENT 43
HEADLAMP FOG LAMP(RIGHT -HAND)
HORN PUSH &TRAFr IC ATOR
SVWTCH
Htj~~Ij~4~
JUNCTIONSOX
4DIPPER
SWITCH
‘-IS----,40 36
99WINDTGNEHORNS
2
2R
( _
29 — 25
F S
DYNAMO
A 3
A4 W3
~~I33
FUSE SOS
25N JUNCTION 57I) BOX
VNOT FITTED TOIA LITRE MODELS
PETROL PUMP
42 FILAMENT FILAMENT
S ID E L AMP
FOG LAEP HEADLAMP(LEFT-HAND) W.20480
/3
Key to cable colours as on page N.h.
N.20
0
SIDEL AMP
VIECTRICAL EQUIPMENT XWIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1~ LITRE SALOON (EXPORT, L.II.D.)
WITH SEPARATE CONTROL AND FUSE BOXESREVERSE TAIL
LAMP
AMMETERCLOCK
—0- --
/PANELLIGHT
33
I
PANELLIGHT
FOG ILAMP I
SWITCH
~42I IO{
STARVES
PUSH
INTERIOR LIGHTSWITCH
4I\
24~445j~ I—
p~ RO PANEANK OHUNSHEOS A 01
S AR ERS AR ER SATCH
12 VOLT BATTERY
STOP TAILLAMP
V41 22
HEADLAMPMAIN BEAM
WARNING LIGHT
N (~>2S
IGNITIONWARN NO
LIGHT
-~ V
PETROLGAUGE
IT
(~ PAN ELLIGHT
S HEATERWARNING
LIGHT
— IONITION 36SWITCH /~
S CREENWIPER
SCR EENW PER
SWITCH
STI’’.\ 62
LIGHTS
HEATERMOTOR
23 23 I
~7 HEATERRHEOSTAT
LIGHTINGSWITCH CONTROL 905
36 SCISICS IS
~29 centuerS
- S. —— EEl
I — — — ‘F,
-+4~44-
(RIGHT-HAND QLEFTHAND)
21 IS
SNAP JUNCTIONCONNECTORS SOS
IC
INTERIORLIGHT
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SWITCH
c-fr
17\
IS 21
40
— ~—(42~H-.—----------—-——— —
57 4-.241 4 241
- MAIN DIPFILAMENT FILAMENT 43
SIDELAM P
HEADLAMP FOG LAMP(RIGHT-HAND)
DIPPERSWITCH
N
— I
35 40 36
(99WINSTONEHORNS
29 25
0 NAMO
ST
FUSE BOX
COIL SW
DISTRIBUTOR
SNAP
CON NECTORS
-~ 41
57—
DIP MAIN 41
FILAMENT FILAMENT
Sb EL AMP
FOG LAMP HEADLAMP(LEFT-HAND) W20500
Key to cable colours as on page N.h.
N.2 I
- (1+ LITRE)
Tn7
221 STOP6~ LAMPI SWITCH
IT
23
IT’ I IT
REVERSELAMP
SWITCH
Riley 1+ and 2+ Litre—(E)
N ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 2~ LITRE SALOON (EXPORT, L.II.D.)WITH SEPARATE CONTROL AND FUSE BOXES
221 STOP~ LAMP
SWITCH
IT
23
IT( I IT
REVERSE
LAMPSWITCH
(
REVERSE TAIL
LAMP
~4I
CLOCK AMMETER
=~_
44 ‘-~T7-44
PANELLGHT
33
I—~j
12 VOLT BATTERY
TRAFFICATOR TRAFFICATOR
(RIGHT-HAND) (LEFT-HAND)
21 IS
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SNAP JUNCTIONCONNECTORS — eon
RTT
2 S~2
MAN DIP~ AMEN FILA~ECT
NIDELAMP ‘ISIzZ~ISLi’
HEADL AMP~RIGHT-HAND)
PANELLIGHT
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SWITCH
10
INTERIOR LIGHTSWITCH
4Ki1
INTERIORLIGHT
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A CH
2IL40
7
AFOG LAMP
HEADL AMP‘MAIN BEAM’
WARN ISO LIGHT
K>IGNITIONWARNING
U~T
23
36
36
S OP A
AMP
4 2
(2+ LITRE)
SCREENWIPER
PETNEIL
GAUGEIT
24
Cl ( PANEL
LIGHT4 HEATER
WARNING
LIGHT
KDIPPERIWITCH
~1
— I
SCREENWIPERSWITCH
62
<2>62
117
PANELLIGHTS
HEAT ERMOTOR
17 23 23
HEATER
RHE OS TAT
LIGHT NONAITCH CONTROL BOX
36 ~ SPCICS 53~r~V1~29 C ~ ea~eueeC IS
F
29 ___ 55
( I) JUNCTION
29 25
DYNAMO
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WINOTONEHORNS
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C.B
IA
00
00GIST Ri 85 TO R
SNAPCONNECTORS 17
4237
42 FILAMENT FILAMENTDIP MAIN
SIDEL AMP
FOG LAMP HEADLAMP(LEFT-HAND) W20540
Key to cable colours as on page N.17.
N.22 RiCey 1~ and 2~ LCtre—(E)
and 2+ LITRE) ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Section N.23
CORRECT ACID LEVEL DEVICE ONLATER MODELS
All later Lucas batteries fitted with rubber ventplugs are supplied with a device which ensures thatthe batteries are filled to the correct level. In orderto fill the battery, remove each ofthe rubber plugs inturn and pour distilled water round the plastic tubeonto the flange which will be found in the filling orifice,until no more water will enter. Lift the tube slightlyto allow the visible water trapped by the flange todrain into the cell. The acid level in the cell is nowcorrect, and it is important that no more water ispoured in.
When you have completed this operation on each ofthe cells replace the rubber plugs.
In temperate and cool climates these operationsshould not be necessary more often than once every1,000 miles.
AAim AIR
B
AIR flAPPER AIR TRAPPEB
Here the electrolyte is belownormal. Distilled •water isbeing poured on the flangeround the centre tube.
Cease pouring when the waterceases to run through. Thelevel in the cell is controlledby an air lock.
Release the visible water bylifting the tube of the correctacid level device slightly. Theelectrolyte level is ~owcorrect.
Fig. N.21.The method of using the correct acid level device.
(~‘4I~
Riley 1+ and 2+ Litre. Issue I (E) 78538—4~53 N.23