Cook House Issue 6

cookhouse

autumn 2011 WORKING how to make American classics EATING fishing for supper PLAYING serious chefs with serious hobies

S o h o H o u s e F o o d M a g a z i n e

as american as...

New head chef of Dean Street Townhouse, Dave Green, on loving

cabernet sauvignon vinegar and not liking heights

WHAT I KNOW8

GAME ON A delicious partridge recipe from Franklins restaurant in Dulwich30

Cookhouse teams up with Grey Goose vodka

to make focaccia and matching aperitifs

from their special French wheat

WHEAT AND DRINK

a taste...Autumn 2011

W e l c o m e t o t h e a u t u m n 2 0 1 1 i s s u e o f C o o k h o u s e , t h e S o h o H o u s e f o o d m a g a z i n e f o r c h e f s a n d p e o p l e w h o l o v e t o e a t

Th i s m a g a z i n e c e l e b r a t e s t h e f o o d p h i l o s o p h y o f a l l t h e S o h o H o u s e G r o u p r e s t a u r a n t s w o r l d w i d e : S o h o H o u s e N e w Y o r k , B a b i n g t o n H o u s e i n S o m e r s e t , S o h o H o u s e W e s t H o l l y w o o d , S o h o B e a c h H o u s e M i a m i , S o h o H o u s e B e r l i n a n d C e c c o n i s i n L A , a s w e l l a s a l l t h e L o n d o n s i t e s : P i z z a E a s t , P i z z a E a s t P o r t o b e l l o C e c c o n i s , D e a n S t r e e t T o w n H o u s e , S h o r e d i t c h H o u s e , T h e E l e c t r i c , C a f e B o h e m e , B K B , H i g h R o a d H o u s e i n C h i s w i c k , H o x t o n G r i l l a n d S o h o H o u s e . I f y o u r e i n t e r e s t e d i n j o i n i n g o n e o f o u r k i t c h e n s e m a i l c o okh ou s e @ s o h oh ou s e . c om .

I n t h i s i s s u e w e r e f o c u s i n g o n f o o d i n A m e r i c a a n d t a k i n g a l o o k a t w h a t o u r c h e f s a r e c o o k i n g S t a t e s i d e . W e r e a l s o f i n d i n g o u t a b o u t w h a t c h e f s g e t u p t o i n t h e i r s p a r e t i m e , t a k i n g a f i s h i n g t r i p w i t h t h e B a b i n g t o n c r e w , b a k i n g f o c a c c i a w i t h G r e y G o o s e v o d k a a n d g e t t i n g a l l t h e n e w s f r o m t h e S o h o H o u s e G r o u p w o r l d w i d e .

T u c k i n !E d i t o r R e b e c c a S e a l

A r t e t c . D o m i n i c S a l m o nt h a n k s t o D a n F l o w e r , K a t H a r t i g a n , D y l a n

M u r r a y , C a r o l i n e B o u c h e r ,

J e s s i c a H o p k i n s , T h o m a s L e n n a r d , M a t t h e w Ar m i s t e a d , R o n n i e B o n e t t i ,

C a r o l i n a C a v a l i e r e , J o n P o l l a r d , M a t t G r e en l e e s , P a u l G e r a r d , S h e l l e y

A r m i s t e a d , M a u r i l i o M o l t e n i , A n d r e a C a v a l ie r e , D a v e G r e e n , S t e p h e n

T o n k i n , E l i o t S a n d i f o r d , L i l a j B a t t i s t a

Soho Houses rising star chefs, kids cooking, chefs trips and all the news from around the Group

DIGEST THIS4

Meet Michelle Bernstein, a new friend for Cookhouse from Miami

COOKHOUSE NETWORK 10Catch up with chef Markus Pieterse as he finishes his Cookhouse tour at SHNY and moves to West Hollywood

ON TOUR11What is American food and how did it evolve? We take a look at how histo-ry and migration have influenced Soho Houses menus in the USA

AMERICAN PIE12STEP AWAY FROM THE STOVE22

What do chefs get up to in their spare time? We quiz three to find out

The Babington House team go fishing...with nothing but beer to survive on if they dont catch supper

26

www.sohohouse.com

24 HOOK LINE AND SINKER

NIBBLES

Yes, Im gonna be a star

food news from around the world

After the refurbishment of the Electric and opening of Pizza East Portobello in West London, it was time for the state-siders to get a bit of the love: first up Soho House New York, where there is now a whole new space for staff and members to enjoy the Pantry Bar. The menu will change frequently but things like Scotch eggs, pork rolls, quiche, pates, daily sandwich specials and cheese plates will feature in this gor-geous, casual space.

The New York team has also been busy throwing parties all summer on Bastille day they celebrated France, drinking rose and pastis and roasting a lamb on the roof, all to a soundtrack of (mostly) fabulous French pop. Then at the end of August they let their hair down with a pool party on the roof. Pool volley-ball and special burgers by the crew at Rubys Cafe were a perfect summer combo...

Kids all over the world have been learning how to cook with Soho House Group chefs. At Soho House West Hollywood, chef Jake kitted out a gang of wannabe chefs in adult-sized chef white shirts and taught them (and their lucky parents) how to treat pizza dough and then garnish it. The resulting piz-zas were a huge success.

Meanwhile at Shoreditch House the treats were sweet as kids gathered round chef Michal to learn how to make cookies, and again, parents were there to benefit from the end results. (They claimed they were just there to supervise...but were not so sure...)

And at Soho House New York the citys kids got in on the action as they learnt to make and decorate cupcakes. Yum!

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Elmer pantry

Rookie cookies Rising Stars: meet autumns kitchen heroes

Soho House Berlin Head chef Simone Gobbo says: Johannes Happe started as commis in the production kitchen on day one of Soho House Berlin, receiving deliveries and doing prep jobs for all the other sections. Hes very patient and fast, full of energy and he never goes home on time, only when all the jobs are done. He always puts a lot of effort into any task I give him.

Soho House West HollywoodHead chef Matthew Armistead says: James Drye is my assistant pastry chef. Dolores, the head pastry chef, has taken an extended leave of absence and James has been running the station while shes been away. Hes a great guy and very calm and collected.Babington HouseHead chef Ronnie Bonetti says: Jessica Marshall has been with us just under two years. She is great at everything she does, and a good friend to have on the team. She does all the sections beautifully, with real care. Its nice to have a girl on the team as well!

Soho House New YorkHead chef Paul Gerard says: Zach Cooper is terrific. Hes junior sous chef and born n bred in Brooklyn this kid is bound to be a bona fide bad-ass. He buzzes around the kitchen like a worker bee, and has the skills to be a top-of-the-line chef!

High Road HouseHead chef Devon Boyce says: Slawomir Lachowski is a Soho House rising star! He started here at High Road house in September 2007 and has been a strong part of the brasserie team since then. He is currently junior sous and has grown massively in the last few years. He knows the meaning of cracking on and is always positive no matter what. He stays calm under pressure and always delivers food of high quality. He has a great future ahead of him. Im lucky to have him here.

Kids get in on the cooking action at Soho House West Hollywood

The new Pantry in NYC and Paul Gerard and team BBQ on the roof

NIBBLES

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BIG COOKHOUSE

www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse

Chefs from Cecconis in LA spent a sunny day at

Somis Farm in California. Somis Farm is part

of Underwood Family Farms, who are committed

to rearing animals and growing fresh produce

sustainably. The chefs got to learn more about

farming techniques and even managed to get a

ride on a tractor.

Weve had more Cookhouse events than ever taking

place around the sites its not just kids who

get to learn new skills. In Shoreditch head chef

Maurilio Molteni has been showcasing his top-

notch pasta-making skills with linguine, ravioli

and lasagne on the menu, while Michal (thanks to

Grey Goose) has been teaching members how to make

his delicious summer bites.

In New York, head chef Paul Gerard showed

a crowd of hungry guests how to make Cajun

jambalaya (he lived in New Orleans for years

and knows the best techniques). His next class

is all about tacos. Chef and health coach Seema

Shah also popped by the House to show chefs

and members how to make amazing raw salads and

dressings perfect food for New Yorks sizzling

summer.

In Miami, chef Sergio Sigala has risked the wrath

of his entire family and has given away his

grandmothers secret gnocchi recipe. In LA Andrea

Cavaliere showed members how to make perfect

cicchetti (tiny taster bits of Italian classic

dishes) and over in Berlin, Simone Gobbo gave

German locals his tasty take on the same.

Led by executive chef Andrea Cavaliere, the LA team is heading to the Toronto Film Festival to host a pop-up version of Soho House. If youre lucky enough to be there, look forward to salt cod croquettes, lobster and mascarpone ravioli, Kobe beef sliders and artichoke and burrata crostinis, all served as bites. Then for dinner there will be goodies like salt-baked wild salmon or prime tagliata steak and ricotta cheesecake for pud. Were booking our flights out now...

Part of the Soho House philosophy is making its members feel as if theyre in a home away from home, whatever venue around the world they might find themselves in. So, while local inspiration and produce is still really important, there are certain things on the menu youll find that are just the same in London, LA or Berlin the House Regulars. These classic dishes have just been redeveloped and refined. Look out for the best macaroni cheese, perfect burgers, Soho-style fish and chips, chicken paillard, club sandwich and steak, wherever you are.

Specially designed dishes for the Toronto Film Festival

Down on the farm

stay regular

Cecconis chefs at Somis Farm

Above and left: chefs and members get cooking

YOU CANUCKY PEOPLE

Dave Green, 37, Head Chef, Dean Street TownhouseI was always a keen cook when I was a kid. I used to help both my mother and

grandmother with baking, but I didnt actually consider it as a career until

I worked in a few pubs and realised I liked the kitchen side of it. I still

love to bake now, even though I dont get a lot of time to do it!

When I worked for Chris Galvin at Mezzo he taught me a lot about classical

French techniques, which was massively important, but (and I know it sounds

like a bit of a clich) my favourite cuisine to cook is modern British. Its

a bit of everything from Europe thrown in but with an English twist and

English ingredients, which is exactly what we do at Dean Street.

When Im putting a menu together I tend to start with a list of seasonal

ingredients and work from there. Its a great time now because were at

the start of the game season, which is definitely my favourite. Each piece

of game is very different; grouse doesnt taste like anything else at

all and is one of those things that if you get right is going to be

absolutely amazing. One of the biggest satisfactions that comes with my job is running a

good kitchen: making sure the chefs working in it are happy is just as

important as making good food. It used to be just about cooking the food

but its all about the whole package now, which is better.

Managing the numbers and the stock you learn very quickly: managing

the people is the hard thing. You really do have to treat everybody

differently. Understanding a particular persons personality and how

they react and then adapting your management to that is one of the

harder lessons Ive learned. Outside the kitchen, the only thing I dont like is heights. My

younger brother is a fireman who loves heights and constantly

challenges me to do extreme things like abseil off Table Mountain

and so, of course, Ive always got to do it. Im always glad Ive done

it afterwards but the couple of hours beforehand arent usually

much fun!

As long as youve got working stoves, you can adapt to most things in the kitchen but one ingredient that is my ultimate must have is Cabernet Sauvignon red vinegar. Using that instead of normal vinegar will make your dishes taste amazing. Thats my best chef secret I think. I probably shouldnt have given it away

what i knowstarters

www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse

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to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact [email protected]

SOUND GOOD?

Thats my best chef secret I think. I probably shouldnt have given it away

Dave Green

Grouse doesnt

taste like anything else at

all and is one of

those things that

if you get right

is going to be

absolutely amazing.

The Cookhouse Network now includes Michelle Bernstein, a multi-award winning chef from Miami who has two restaurants Michys and SAR Martinez. She guest-cheffed at Soho Beach House Miami this summer and we are lucky enough to have her top tips and trade secrets.

WHAT MADE YOU START COOKING IN THE FIRST PLACE?

My love of eating and wanting to be with my mom in the

kitchen.

WHATS YOUR FAVOURITE INGREDIENT TO COOK WITH?

Sea urchin.

WHAT THREE QUALITIES DOES A CHEF NEED TO BE SUCCESSFUL? Humility, discipline and tenacity.

WHAT WOULD YOU TELL A YOUNG CHEF JUST STARTING OUT?

Keep your head down, focus, dont talk, just listen and take

notes. And only work where you would eat.

WHAT WAS THE GREATEST COOKERY ADVICE YOU WERE EVER

GIVEN AND BY WHOM? Cook with abandon, said Jean Louis Palladin. [Palladin

was a great chef who helped bring French food to American

kitchens.]

DO YOU HAVE ANY FOODIE GUILTY PLEASURES? Of course! I LOVE CHIPS of every kind. I try and stay away from them, especially

the kind that make your fingers orange!

WHATS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF EQUIPMENT? My spoon. It doesnt even have a brand and its really old.

WHATS YOUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Thats impossible to answer. It depends on the day and my mood. I love Raku and

Bartolotta, both in Las Vegas, Le Bernardin in NYC, Nobu in Miami, Hy Vong in

Miami...There are sooo many places this list could be 500 deep.

HOW DO YOU RELAX? I dont relax much but my husband and I love to travel and hike and swim and hang

out with our puppies.

WHATS YOUR TOP TRICK OF THE TRADE? Mascarpone makes risotto even creamier, a touch of lemon brings out the flavour in

everything and dashi broth is awesome for poaching vegetables.

Find out more about Michelle Bernstein here:

chefmichellebernstein.com

Cookhouse runs a programme for chefs whod like to work abroad. Every year a few of the best chefs from the group get the chance to move between UK sites to American ones. Meet Markus Pieterse, sous chef, who has just completed his first stint in America at Soho House New York and is about to move to Soho House West Hollywood.

I have been here in New York for almost seven months now. I started at the beginning of March and

Ive enjoyed my time. It has been a challenge to work

in a big operation that has so many aspects to it, but

the challenge is what makes it fun.

Now, Im very much looking forward to LA. Im up for

new challenges and seeing different ways of doing things. Just to be here

is great. Ive learnt a lot, from new dishes and cooking styles, to things

people take as common knowledge here such as the measuring system (its

difficult going from metric to US cups and ounces). I have also seen a lot

of different management styles and out of that have learnt how to better

manage and how not to manage people and situations.

I met my girlfriend in the first few months of working here and have

made several very good friends that I hope to stay in touch with.

One of the most memorable events was being offered the chance to work

at the James Beard House with chef Andrea and the team. It was a great

honour to get an opportunity to work in a place where some of the biggest

names in the industry have worked.

Plus, we have done a few really interesting things like the July BBQ

Sundays where there would be a six-foot BBQ on the roof with a theme

from a different country each week. We have also done whole lamb, spit-

roasted on the roof.

I think the Cookhouse circuit is a great opportunity for chefs to learn

different styles of cooking, work with different produce and experience a

new country at the same time. It has enriched my food knowledge vastly.

I hope to continue learning more every step of the way.

Michelle Bernstein Cookhouse circuitfriends of cookhouse


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SOUND GOOD?

Markus Pieterse

Im up for new challenges,

and seeing different styles of doing things

Only work where you would eat

Michelle Bernstein at Soho Beach House

on tour

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USA!USA!This issue were taking a look at American food: what it is, and how Soho Houses chefs in America manage to take often humble foods to new heights...but without making things too complicated

for amber waves of grain


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On the flip side, lots of dishes that are thought of as Italian are

actually as close to being American as food can be: People think of

Caesar salad or chicken parmigiana as Italian but actually they were

created by immigrants right here, says Andrea (who serves traditional

Italian dishes in Cecconis LA and Miami). Caesar salad, for example,

was probably invented in the 1920s, by an Italian chef, Caesar Cardini,

working in San Diego and Tijuana. Chicken parmigiana is a hybrid of

dishes from all over Italy invented in New Jersey or New York in the

1930s. (By the way, if youre in the UK and craving a taste of the USA,

head to Hoxton Grill in London for their New York strip steak, pulled

pork or barbecue ribs.)

A more recent development in American food has been the extravagant

dressing up of comfort food which is, after all, what most classic US

food is. Some chefs find this frustrating, like Paul Gerard, head chef

at Soho House New York, who simply wants to find the best ingredients to

cook good, straightforward food. The resurgence of moms meatloaf made

with a chefs twist has become trite, he says. Its all so over-thought.

My mac n cheese, for instance, I dont do anything particular with no

beer, no truffles, no bacon. A lot of work goes into each ingredient for

me. I just use really good pasta and really good cheese. In the same way,

my burger is very simple: chuck chop and brisket mix, salt and pepper.

And then I grill it. I went to a local bakery and had them spec out a

really good roll. It wont heighten me as a chef but its not about me,

its about the people eating my food.

for amber waves of grainClassicAmericanfoodiseasytoperceiveaspredictable.Theworldoverknowstheburger,macncheeseandthealmightyfriedchicken

Theresurgenceofmomsmeatloafm

ade

withachefstwisthasbecometrite

International politics gave America its food over

the last two centuries. As wars and economics forced

or encouraged people from all over the world to

seek their fortunes in the USA, they brought their

favourite dishes with them. Hamburgers travelled

with Germans while pasta came with Italians. Chinese railroad

workers brought their knowledge of spices, rice and noodles and

Mexicans introduced burritos and tortillas. Sushi arrived with Japanese

immigrants just after the Second World War and South East Asian food

took off as refugees fled the Vietnam war in the 1970s.

The new foods then evolved to suit local tastes and produce. The

California sushi roll was invented a long way from Japan; Tex-Mex is

less spicy than food south of the border and mac n cheese with New York

cheddar isnt the medieval formaggio dish it once was. Today, many of the

dishes on Soho Houses menus in the US and Europe are the result of this

mixing of culinary cultures.

Because of all this mingling, its hard to define American food, but

there are ways in which food is served that are typically American.

Andrea Cavaliere, executive chef US kitchens, explains: American food

is thought of as being served in huge portions because of the Irish and

Italians, he says. Because they were starving, literally, before they

arrived, once they had success they began to show off, with their clothes

and the amount of food they could afford.

Italian food has been one of the most successful imports, perhaps because

17.8 million Americans reckon they have Italian blood. There are Italian

dialects spoken in Brooklyn that are no longer used in Italy, says

Andrea. Italians had a huge influence in the 1930s and 1940s in New

York. He finds it funny that sometimes people dont even notice that

what theyre eating is Italian. Theres a restaurant in LA that says it

serves American classics, but the dishes are all meatballs or pasta.


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RECIPES

Prepare the bchamel. Once cooled add the cooked macaroni. Place in pot and cover with more cheddar and parmesan. Grill until golden. Should be very moist, cheesy and NOT dry!

Lots of dishes

that are thought

of as Italian are

actually as close

to being American

as food can be

Meanwhile in the kitchens of Soho House West Hollywood, Australian sous

chef Maxim Roberts has also been thinking about what US food means to

him, as a fairly new arrival:

Classic American food is easy to perceive as predictable. The world over

knows the burger, mac n cheese and the almighty fried chicken. Look a

little closer, though, and you may be pleasantly surprised. Nearly every

state and city has its own claim to a classic dish, invented by a group

within its population. These dishes end up being loved by all that live

there like the po boy (sandwich) from New Orleans, a deep dish (pizza)

pie from Chicago or a breakfast burrito in California.

Los Angeles is an interesting mix, with classic American foods found

abundantly throughout the city and the major influence of Mexico

appearing at every turn. Theres also a focus here on fresh and healthy

food which as a newcomer I found surprising, but I now see as just

another facet of this strange and wonderful city. There are farmers

markets nearly every day that are always full of amazingly fresh local

ingredients. These have been great for us as we develop new dishes. In

the last few months lots of clean-flavoured, raw items have found their

way onto our menu. (See over the page for two of Maxs brilliant, modern-

American, California-inspired recipes.)

So things just keep on changing. What will it be like here in 50 years?

asks Andrea. Still an exciting place to be cooking, we reckon.

PAUL GERARDS SHNY BURGERPaul uses his insiders knowledge of New Yorks best ingredients for his cooking

50% prime chuck50% prime brisketGrind on a 1/8 die (mince)

Look at and feel the meat. Note: You want an 80/20 meat to fat ratio. Any more fat will cause flare ups on the grill. If the meat looks and feels like it needs more fat - it shouldnt with prime meat that is nicely marbled- you can add fat.

Form 8 oz (225g) patties. Loose. Go easy. Youre not making play doh pizzas; you only need it tight enough to stay formed. Season with salt and pepper. Cook to desired temperature. Top with sharp NY cheddar...melt.

Serve on a soft roll, with seasoned, ripe tomato, red onion, half-sour pickle (gherkin) and fries. And thats that.

SOHO HOUSE MACARONI CHEESEserves 81l / 2.2 pints milk70g / 2 oz plain flour70 g / 2 oz butter650 g / 1 lb grated cheddar1 tbsp English mustard200g / 7 oz parmesansalt and pepper1kg dried macaroni,



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MAX ROBERTS CALIFORNIAN KALE SALADserves 42 bunches of Tuscan kale (black cabbage)1 bunch of Easter egg radishes (watermelon radishes which are not as peppery and beautifully colourful are also great)100g / 3 oz of ricotta salata (salted ricotta) cheese2 tbs pangrattato (fried breadcrumbs)lemon juice good quality extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper.

First the breadcrumbs: break up the bread and place in a warm place to dry for 1/2 an hour or so, then pulse in a blender roughly. Heat some cooking oil in a pan (not too hot) and just before adding the crumbs, place a garlic clove and a few sprigs of rosemary in the oil. Then fry the bread until crispy and golden brown. Strain out the breadcrumbs and soak up excess oil on paper (kitchen) towel.

After removing the stalks wash the kale and drain well, then finely chop. Thinly slice the radishes on a mandolin if you have one, or with a knife if you dont. Grate half the ricotta (keep the other half to shave over at the end). Mix these three in a bowl with salt, pepper, lemon juice (you may need to be quite generous) and olive oil. Finish with the shaved ricotta and pangrattato.

MAX ROBERTS CALIFORNIAN MIXED BEET AND CARROT SALAD

serves 41kg / 2 lbs mixed large beets (red, gold, candy stripe)500g / 1 lb mixed heirloom carrots200g / 7 oz cherry tomatoes2 bunches cilantro (coriander)100g / 3 oz toasted pumpkin seeds (sunflower seeds also work and are a nice addition)sherry vinegar extra virgin olive oiloptional a little grapefruit juice adds zingsalt and pepper.

Start by washing the beets and carrots. Then roast them separately in a medium oven, dressed in some olive oil and with a few garlic cloves and hard herbs (rosemary or thyme) for about 45 minutes to one hour, or until tender but soft. Pick the cilantro leaves and place to one side. Wash the stems and chop. Halve the tomatoes and season. Cut the beets and carrots into big chunky wedges. Mix with the tomato and cilantro stalks. Dress with sherry vinegar, oil and grapefruit juice if youre using it. Finish with the toasted seeds and cilantro leaves.


In the last few months lots of clean-flavoured, raw items have found their way onto our menu.


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to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group teams around the world contact [email protected]

MY FAVOURITE AMERICAN RECIPE:RED BEANS AND RICE, NEW ORLEANS STYLEChef Andrea Cavaliere, an Italian working in Los Angeles, has fallen for this all-American Creole dish

No dish represents American-Creole cuisine like red beans and rice, and it may

be the best testament America has to multiculturalism. The ingredients are from

all over: after the abolition of slavery, new plantation workers came from

China and India and they brought the long grain rice which is now standard

for most bean and rice dishes.

Although in Cuba and Central America black beans rule, in Puerto Rico, Jamaica

and New Orleans red kidneys are the favourite (theyre native to Peru).

The French gave mirepoix, a combination of onion, carrots and celery, and the

Spanish gave sofrito tomato, garlic and onion. Combined with pepper, they

became whats now called the trinity: one onion, two green peppers and three

stalks of celery.

You also need two dry herbs (originally from Europe), bay and thyme, as well as

cayenne pepper (originally from Jamaica) and pickled pork (from the days before

refrigeration). Some people add chopped parsley, green onions or even sausage.

Traditionally, it was made on Mondays, wash day, with the leftover meats from

Sundays meal simmering as clothes were scrubbed. Now, although its often a

Monday special in New Orleans restaurants, its also a staple for the Super

Bowl and Mardi Gras.

WANT TO COOK WITH US?Tuck in!

for amber waves of grainwor

ds

by C

arol

ina C

avali

ere

RECIPEThis rice and beans recipe is by Donald Link, who is the James Beard award-winning chef-owner of the Link Restaurant Group in New Orleans, which includes Herbsaint, Cochon, Cochon Butcher,

Calcasieu and Cochon Lafayette.

1lb / 450g dried red beans1 gallon / 3.5 litres water1 ham bone6 bay leaves8 oz / 225g sausage, chopped inch / 1.5 cm square8 oz / 225g smoked ham, chopped inch/ 1.5 cm square1 medium onion, small diced1 small tomato, small diced2 jalapeno, finely chopped6 cloves garlic, finely chopped2 tbs wholegrain mustard cup / 60 ml red wine vinegar2 tsp dried thyme 1 scant tbs salt tbs pepper

Soak beans overnight; drain. Combine beans, water, ham bone and bay leaves, boil and then bring to a simmer. In a separate pan, brown the sausage and ham for 4 to 5 minutes. Add onion and brown for 5 minutes more. Add tomato, jalapeno, garlic, mustard, red wine vinegar, thyme, salt and pepper and continue to saut for an additional 5 to 8 minutes.

Transfer the sausage and ham mixture to red beans. Simmer slowly, uncovered, for 2 hours. Approximately 10 minutes before beans are done, use a wooden spoon or spatula to cream the beans along the inside of the pot. If beans are too tight, add a bit more water and cook until beans are soft. Serve over rice.

Optional: For added heat, mix in a teaspoon of cayenne or other dried pepper.

America is a melting pot and red beans and rice maybe be the finest testament America has to multicultarism.

Leon Markham-Lee is a sous chef on the pastry section at Dean Street Townhouse in London. In his spare time hes a Thai boxer

The mentality you need for boxing is the same one you need

for the kitchen. You get out what you put in with both and

if you give 110% then things really start happening. Both

are a bit intimidating too they either grab you and pull

you in, or scare you off.

Ive been doing martial arts since I was 13 and I started

Thai boxing in 2003. Ive been doing it competitively

since 2007. It means Ive had to give up the outside-of-work chef

lifestyle and focus on my training. It doesnt make a difference

that I was born without one hand its natural to me. I wouldnt know what to do

if someone stuck a hand on me now. I go to the gym three times a week, but before a

competition I train six days a week which can mean going for a run at 1am after a

double shift! Because, like all chefs, Im on my feet and on the go for hours at a time

I think my stamina and cardio are probably better than some of the people at the gym

who sit at work all day. Before a fight I drop 4-5 kg and basically become a vegan

for a few weeks no meat, sugar or fat which can be hard when we have tastings!

The job fits perfectly with boxing. Having done martial arts when I was a kid I

understood the hierarchy of the kitchen when I started cooking, and that if you want

something you have to work for it whether thats the next belt or a better job. Now

I teach kids and its really satisfying. I can see the benefits of it in myself.

Our chefs work hard but we didnt realise how hard they played too! Here we meet three chefs who are just as serious about what they do with their spare time as about what they do at the stove

Seth Wheeler is a banquet cook at Soho House New York. He is also a cyclist and loves adventure sports

Im an adrenaline junkie. Im a big cyclist but I also

like motocross, hang-gliding and climbing. I havent sky-

dived yet Im trying to convince my wife. Ive got three

kids though so I dont think shell agree! My six-year-old

daughter comes climbing and shes getting pretty good on

her bike. I dont have the patience to sit still and play

with toys so its a great feeling to do things together. I

didnt have that growing up in New York in the 1980s and

1990s. My three-year-old son and one-year-old daughter

are really active too. We all go hiking and kayaking.

I ride 100 miles a week, at least. And I ride from Penn

Station to Montauk Point, which is 140 miles and takes

around nine hours, at least two or three times every

summer. Next summer I plan to do the Pacific Coast Highway. Its 454 miles and the goal

is to do it in three days, but it will most likely take four.

If I was rich Id compete. I try and beat my personal goals though. I always want to be

better. Thats something I apply to my cooking, my family and my life.

Brian McGowan is a sous chef at Pizza East in Shoreditch. Hes also an animator

The style of animation I do depends on the project. I do

projects which require hyper-realism, working with live

action footage, and I do work which is very stylised. It

varies a lot. When you put together a showreel, although the

actual animation might be CGI, you put in everything the concept

drawings and sketches, test animation and models, right down to the

finished product. So it involves lots of different skills.

Animation is what my degree is in and I came to London to study

it more. But Ive worked as a chef since I was 15 and Pizza East

has been very good to me, so Im happy to be where I am. Things are

good. Animation will always be there for me and London is

the place to be if you want to get into it.

Leon Markham-Lee

out of the kitchenSeth Wheeler

Brian McGowan

playing hard


Leon Markham-Lee in action

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Having done martial

arts when I was a

kid I understood

the hierarchy of

the kitchen when I

started cooking

I ride 100 miles a week,

at least. I try and beat

my personal goals

Animation will

always be there

for me and London is the

place to be if

you want to get

into it

SOUND GOOD?

So, who knew that vodka and bread are close relations? Its all about ratios, explained Grey Goose vodkas brand ambassador Joe McCanta, who hooked up with Pizza Easts head chef, Jon Pollard, and junior sous, Nicholas Fitzgerald, to make focaccia to pair with aperitifs. If you alter the ratio of water, yeast and flour, you can either start the bread-making process, or the vodka-making process, said Joe. Hed brought along some of the special flour used to make Grey Goose vodka soft winter wheat harvested sustainably and grown by a co-operative. It comes from the Picardie region in France and is classified as a superior bread-making wheat, the same as for French breads and pastries. Today, though, it was getting the Italian treatment. Were using the finest French wheat to make a beautiful East London-style Italian bread, said Jon.

Looking over the flours, Jon and Nicholas were sure that they could make some great breads with it. Grey Goose is unusual because the wheat is milled at the distillery and isnt a by-product of another industry, so the flour looked particularly good.

Jon and Nicholas got to work: Were starting with a poolish, a starter thats about six hours old, said Jon. I always use fresh yeast, with equal quantities of both flour and water. They then added salt (You need a lot because it will expand by five times the size of the dough, said Nicholas), Sicilian olives and anchovies (Rip, dont chop them, otherwise you lose all the oil on the board, said Jon), garlic and single-pressed, single-estate, extra-virgin olive oil. Later, they also dished up loaves made with either their home-made pecorino cheese, rosemary or tomatoes.

While the doughs proved and baked, Joe devised a special cocktail to go with them. Im using Byrrh, a grand quinquina, which is a bitter French aperitif. Its made from the same tree bark that quinine is derived from. Im adding Cynar, an artichoke amaro, to get a vegetative bitterness and mixing them with Grey Goose vodka to make a spin on a dirty martini.

The resulting drink was garnished with yellow tomatoes that the Pizza East team had harvested from their farmland in North London, plus Sicilian olives and basil. It cut brilliantly through the saltiness of the warm and light focaccia when it emerged from the pizza ovens.

flour powerfocaccia you!


As part of Cookhouses on-going partnership with Grey Goose vodka, we explore the relationship between wheat, bread and booze, and discover some great cocktails along the way.

Grey Goose vodkas Joe McCanta, Pizza East head chef Jon Pollard and junior sous chef Nicholas Fitzgerald

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Were using the finest French wheat to make a beautiful East London-style Italian bread,

cocktail70 ml/2 oz Grey Goose

vodka15 ml/ oz olive juice

5 ml/ oz Byrrh3 ml/1 barspoon Cynar3 ml/1 barspoon white

balsamic vinegar

Stir, strain and top with lemon peel (discard). Garnish with olive,

tomato and basil on a cocktail stick (pick).

Cocktail of the Month Grey Goose LEte

35 ml/1 oz Grey Goose vodka

6 seedless white grapes20 ml/ oz white grapefruit juice

15 ml/ oz white grape juice

5 ml/ oz Chartreuse10 ml/1/3 oz agave syrup

5 sprigs mint

Muddle, shake and strain over ice in highball.

Garnish with white grapes on a cocktail stick with

sprig of mint.

Being an avid fan of Robson Greens Extreme Fishing (OK, I saw it once on TV), I thought the Babington team could re-create the programme with one or two extra challenges thrown in. One: we only take beer. Two: we all spend the night camping at Eweleaze farm. We eat what we catch or trade beer with other boats if, God forbid, we dont catch anything. Simple!

Id been catching up on fishing TV programmes so as not to look like an idiot. I had visions of something like TV chef Keith Floyd on tour: glass in hand, witty repartee, floppy sun hat, grilling mackerel over an open fire. So I was slightly alarmed when I call Paul (a Babington member, local fisherman and our guide) and he tells me to meet him

hooked!


Last month saw the Babington team head to the south coast for a day of fishing and night of camping.

General manager Matt Greenlees reports back

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Id also snuck in a bottle of wasabi.

I was hoping for sashimi for lunch.

gone fishin

at Weymouth port. Weymouth? With its beach, Punch and Judy and dodgy fish and chips?! That was not the vision... We met at Babington at 5.30am for a bacon butty and the pre-trip check list. Hat, sunnies, tent, sleeping bag, beer. I was a little apprehensive as my wing man, head chef Ronnie Bonetti, was stuck in London working. Being from North Queensland, fishing and camping come naturally to Big Ron. As a more refined Brisbane boy, I would have to make it up as I went along.

We arrived to see the port full of working boats. No Punch and Judy, just fisherman loading boats with bait and rods. Paul met us and helped unload the precious cargo beer! (Id also snuck in a bottle of wasabi. I was hoping for sashimi for lunch.) Paul took us through the boat safety instructions (If I jump in, you follow) and told us that we were fishing for mackerel, bass, bream


and turbot. I raised the subject of sustainable fishing, with which Paul agrees; hes a pole-and-line man.

We made for Portland Head. When we started fishing there the mood on the boat changed from calm to frantic in a matter of seconds, as Kelly dropped a line overboard and immediately caught four mackerel. Girlish squeals followed as she had no idea how to get them off the line. Within minutes the boat was full of mackerel. Paul and David (deck hand for the day) raced around, unhooking fish and untangling lines. We had caught enough mackerel for dinner and to make bait for turbot.

Paul called a fellow boat to check if there were any sea bass about. It wasnt looking good. It was only 10am and that boat had given up for the day. They gave us their sand eels (for bait) and wished us luck. On the hunt, we hit the Portland race (a body of choppy water which sea bass love)...and entered a scene from The Perfect Storm. James Jesty (senior sous chef) turned green and spent the rest of the trip indisposed below deck. No bass for the barbecue. We decided to hunt for flat fish which prefer calmer water. I was both excited and angry when Kelly landed a fine-looking brill. Excited: I was going to eat well. Angry: I had not caught it.

One decent fish was in the esky, so Paul took us to black bream territory. New hooks, new bait: two bream and three sharks later, we turned for home.

We were all tired after eight hours fishing but the mood turned when we pulled into Eweleaze. We pitched camp on a hill overlooking the sea. It was a perfect end to the day. I broke the rules and bought some provisions for dinner. Frank got the fire going and Karina took charge of fish mise-en-place. Phil gutted, James and Kelly filleted, and Gav washed. The menu? Mackerel and tomato bruschetta, black bream, whole barbecued brill, grilled red peppers and courgettes, and barbecued rum bananas. Amazing.

hooked!


COO K H O U SE29

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Excited: I was going to eat well. Angry: I had not caught it

The Babington team set sail

The fishing team included: Matt Greenlees, Kelly Wardingham, Darren Keays, Nick Thornton-

James, Neil Smith, James Jesty, Karina Moche, Gavin Davis and

Phil Licciardo


SOUND GOOD?

members recipe dear diary...

SERVES 22 red-leg partridge, plucked and cleaned

10-15 sweet chestnuts

6 rashers of smoked streaky bacon

1 small squash (butternut, acorn,

carnival, fairytale pumpkin or autumn

cup)

6 large sage leaves

olive oil

ground nutmeg

crushed chilli

butter

RED-LEG PARTRIDGE WITH CHESTNUTS, SQUASH AND BACON

Franklins is a neighbourhood restaurant in East Dulwich, south

London, which shares the Soho House philosophy of using local

produce wherever possible most vegetables come from Kent, they

use rare breed meats and their fish is from British waters.

This autumnal recipe is by head chef and co-owner Tim Sheehan.

www.franklinsrestaurant.com

[email protected]

IM AVIN PARTRIDGE!

COO K H O U SE30


IF YOUD LIKE TO SEE YOUR RECIPE HERE,

PLEASE EMAIL IT TO

Roast the chestnuts first, so theyll be cool for peeling. Pre-heat oven to 200C/400F and give them 20-25 minutes on a tray. While theyre cooling, peel, quarter, deseed and dice the squash into 1.5cm/ inch cubes. Toss the squash in a bowl with olive oil, salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg and chilli.

Turn up the oven to 220C/425F. Take a couple of cubes of butter and two sage leaves and stuff them inside the partridge. Wrap the feet together with some tinfoil to pre-vent scorching. Lightly oil and season the birds and seal them all over in an oven-proof frying pan. Halve two of the bacon rash-ers and drape two pieces over each of the birds bellies. Transfer to the oven. Put the squash in at the same time in one layer on a tray. Cook for 35-40 minutes. (The birds should be eaten pink or theyll be tough.) Turn them over onto their breasts halfway and remove the rashers for later.

Dice and fry the rest of the bacon in small-ish pieces and set aside. Peel the chestnuts and roughly crumble them into the bacon with a couple of chopped sage leaves. When the birds come out

let them rest for five to ten minutes somewhere warm. Mix the squash with the bacon and chestnuts. Serve this in a generous mound on a plate with the bird perched on top, the bacon rash-ers perched on the bird and a rich cider or wine gravy on the side.

london callingAnother sign, as if more proof was needed, of Londons amazing food culture is the growth of the London Restaurant Festival. Now in its third year, the festival will involve more than 600 restaurants last year it saw 30,000 people served from special, great-value Festival menus, all over the city.

The Gourmet Odyssey is a huge attraction eat your three-course meal in three different restaurants and travel between them in a vintage Routemaster bus! There will also be a fabulous pop-up restaurant in a pod at the London Eye have supper hovering over London plus a food quiz, food markets, a tapas tour and special film screenings.

However, the two biggest events are the iVoucher London Restaurant Festival Awards on 17th October in Old Spitalfields Market and the Big Debate, held at Kings Place, Kings Cross on 11th October.

At the glittering awards, judges will include renowned British food critics and food writers Tracey MacLeod, Marina OLoughlin, Christine Hayes, Giles Coren, Tom Parker Bowles, Joe Warwick and LRF co-founders Fay Maschler and Simon Davis. Theyll be deciding some unusual categories expect food awards for Bravery, Discovery, Warmth and Welcome, Passion and Fun!

The Big Debate will be chaired by Soho House Group CEO Nick Jones wife, the brilliant broadcaster Kirsty Young, and promises to be a humdinger of a night. The motion There is No Such Thing as Ethnic Food will be knocked about by Sunday Times restaurant critic A.A Gill, writer and broadcaster Jonathan Meades, cook Clarissa Dickson Wright and writer, broadcaster and foodie Hardeep Singh.

Phew! What a fortnight its going to be!

For tickets to the Big Debate Please call the box office: 020 7520 1490 Tickets include a glass of wine from Wines from Rioja and canapes.

For more information on London Restaurant Festival go to: www.londonrestaurantfestival.com

(ow,ow, owwwwwww!)

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Cook House Issue 6