Construction Casual Bottoms (Unlined)

8/11/2019 Construction Casual Bottoms (Unlined)

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Ann Taylor

Ann Taylor LoftAnn Taylor Factory Stores

Construction Guidelines

CASUAL BOTTOMS

Unlined


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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Casual Bottoms - Unlined 5 February 2004

CASUAL BOTTOMS

INTRODUCTION:

The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology andcomponents.

These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft andAnn Taylor Factory Stores apparel products.

The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.

NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:

SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal): Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.

Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be A/B marker. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package.

NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR CASUAL BOTTOMS - PANTS & SKIRTS: Fully Lined.

Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch

FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES: All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. Following parts to be fused, unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.:

* Inner & Outer Waistband - Note: Contour Waistbands, cut 2 piece fusible w/ Front and Back Waistband fusible parts cut on Straight Grain(Waistband Fusible Quality Options: Outer Waistband: Kufner #R861 /PCC #1061 Inner Waistband: Kufner #V401 / PCC #2610)

* Waist Facing * Zipper Setting + Fly Facing& Extension * Pocket Edge + Pocket Setting


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STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-15):

PANT LEG PRE-CREASE:

NOTE: See Spec Package for style details - Crease OR NO Crease.

Centerof Leg

B9-1 Pre-Crease Leg

Front Front

CenterofLeg

Note:Crease Leg toThigh Line Only

ThighLine

Crease along

center of Leg

NO Creasefrom Waist toThigh line

Center of leg is at "right angle" to Hem l ine.

Align

Outsesam &Inseam edgefrom Knee toLeg Opening

Front Leg

Back Leg

At "final" pressing:Position along Front legcrease prior to pressingBack Leg crease.

Note: Inseam andOutseam are alignedfrom Knee to LegOpening.


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PANT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: See Specification Package for Construction Method.

Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. Overedge stitch width 1/8 minimum.

Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Open press Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge

(double stitch base of Rise) Front Rise Back Rise Open press above rise curve

Method 2 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Open press Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge Front Rise Back Rise Open Press above rise curve

Method 3 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Open press Safety Stitch Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: Menswear

Fly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)

Method 4 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Press toward back Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge

(Double stitch base of Rise) Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: Menswear

Fly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)

Method 5 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Press toward back

Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: MenswearFly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)

Method 6 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Safety Stitch Outseam Inseam Press toward back

Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: MenswearFly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)

Method 7 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) JEANS Safety Stitch Outseam Press toward back

Felled Seam Front Rise Back Rise Inseam Back Yoke

Rises: Felled seam on wearers left (Exception:Menswear Fly Closure, seam on wearers right)

Inseam: Felled seam on Front Leg Back Yoke seam direction per Design Details


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SKIRT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: See Specification Package for Construction Method.

Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. Overedge stitch width 1/8 minimum.

Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)

Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Side seams Center Back Open press Panel seams Center Front


Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge Side seams Center Back Open press Panel seams Center Front


Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Center Front Press toward wearers right Panel seams Press toward center


Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Center Front Press toward wearers right Panel seams Press toward center


Safety Stitch Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Center Front Press toward wearers right Panel seams Press toward center


French Seam Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Panel seams Press toward center


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STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:

Lockstitch - Open Press w/Overedge Finish Chainstitch Open Press w/ Overedge Finish

Open Press

Lockstitch Overedge

Lockstitch

A1-1 Lockstitch w/Overedge finish - Open Press

Seam Details 1/2 seam

allowance

Overedge atraw edge

Lockstitch

Open Press(Above risecurve)

(Note: If Topstitched,press to oneside of seam.See Spec Pkg.)

A1-2 Chainstitch w/ Overedge finish - (Open press)

Chainstitch(under side)

Overedge

Open Press

(top sideof stitch)

Overedge


allowance

Overedge atraw edge

2-ThreadChainstitch

Open Press(above risecurve)

(Note: If Topstitched,press to one sideof seam. SeeSpec Pkg.)

Lockstitch - Closed w/ Overedge Safety Stitch

Lockstitch Close w/ Overedge

A1-5 Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge -(press to one side)

Seam Details 3/8 to

seamallowance

Lockstitch

Closed w/Overedge

Press to oneside(See

ConstructionMethods Chart

/ Spec Pkg.)

Chainstitch(under side)

(top sideof stitch)

Overedge Stitch

A1-6 Safety Stitch (5-Thread)

Safety Stitch(Combination ofSingle Needle Chainstitch+ Overedge Stitch)

Press to One Side (see Spec Pkg)


allowance

Press to oneside (see

ConstructionMethods Chart orSpec Pkg.)

Shell seams

Lining seams


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Felled Seam w/ Chainstitch Felled Seam w/ Lockstitch

A1-20 Felled seam - Chainstitched

Chain Stitch

Outside of Garment Inside of Garment

Cross SectionThrough

Stitch

Seam allowances inter-lap

ThroughStitch

Seam Details

Lapped Seam(Raw edgesenclosed)

1/4 to3/8seamallowance

2-ThreadChainstitch

Outside View

A1-21 Felled seam - Lockstitched

Inside View

Lockstitch

Seam allowances inter-lap

ThroughStitch

Cross SectionThrough

Stitch

Seam Details

Lapped Seam(Raw edgesenclosed)

1/4 to 3/8seamallowance

Lockstitch

Lockstitch; Raw Edge

Seam Types: Waistband / Waist Edge, Pocket Edge

LockstitchRaw Edge

A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)

Lockstitch

Seam Details

1/4 seamallowance

Edge seams

Internal seams(i.e. Waistband

/ Waist Edge,Pocket Flap)

When pressedto one side (See

Construction

Methods Chart orSpec Pkg.)

Back Tack

1/2" Tail

A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch

Single Point

*Follow Dart Guideon pattern

Darts

Lockstitch

Press darttoward CenterFront / CenterBack

Run off DartPoint w/ tail.

No dimpling atDart Point

Follow Dartmarker


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Stay-Stitch (Pre-Stitch) Hip Curve Inseam for patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam.

Seam Line

B9-2 Hip Curve Stay-Stitch

F ro nt

Staystitch1/16"fromSeamline

Seam Line

B ac k

Staystitch

1/16"fromSeamline

Seam Details

PANT: Outseam

SKIRT: SideSeam

Lockstitch

Stitch in seamallowance

(approx. 1/16from seam line) Stretch

Back Inseamevenly tomatchFront Inseam

I n s e a m

I n s e a m

(align edge@ seam)

(match notches)

KneeKnee

Back RiseFront Rise

B9-3 Inseam from Rise to Knee

* NOTE: For patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter thanFront Inseam from Rise to Knee

(match notches)

Seam Details

Seamallowance(unless notedotherwise inspec pkg.)

l l b l d d d l


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STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES:

Full Bendback & Topstitched Clean Finish (Partial Bendback) & Topstitched

A15-1 Hem w/Full Bendback; Topstitch

Outside Garment Inside Garment

Topstitch

Full Bendback

A15-2 Hem w/Clean Finish (Partial Bendback) &Topstitched


Topstitch

Overedge Finish & Topstitched Overedge Finish & Blindstitch

A15-3 Hem w/Overedge; Bendback; Topstitched


OveredgeTopstitch

A15-6 Hem w/ Overedge; Bendback; BlindstitchOutside Garment Inside Garment

OveredgeBlindstitch

(No deep stitch pick )

1:1 stitch ratio

Blindstitch requirements: Machine should be set to 1:1 stitch ratio Do not use skipstitch function ( 2:1 or 3:1) unless specified by Technical Design. Overlap blindstitch by 1 and lock tail either by tacking or by using a self locking blindstitch machine. (Treasure Co. produces such a machine) Recommended Needles: Groz-Beckert V-Needle size 65. Needle will be relevant to fabric. Recommended Thread Quality: Amann Serafil 200/2 ( www.amann-online.de ). Thread quality will be relevant to fabric.

A T l Gl b l S i S d d C i G id li


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A T l Gl b l S i g St d d C t ti G id li


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STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES (continued)

Cuff w/ 2 Tacks (for Narrow Leg Opening)

A15-9a Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Hem Tape & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam)

Outside Garment

Seam

CUFF

Stitch-tackat Seams(under cuff)

Inside Garment

Seam

Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Hem Tape& Blindstitch

A15-9b Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Overedge & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam)

Outside Garment

Seam

CUFF

Stitch-tackat Seams(under cuff)

Overedge& Blindstitch

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Inside Garment

Seam

Cuff w/ 4 Tacks (for Wide Leg Opening)

A15-10a Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Hem Tape &Blindstitch (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)

Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

CUFF

Stitch-tackat Seams,Frt & BkCreases(under Cuff)

Outside Garment

Hem Tape& Blindstitch

Seam

Inside Garment

Seam

Inside GarmentOutside Garment

Seam

Seam

CUFF

Stitch-tackat Seams,Frt & BkCreases(under Cuff)

A15-10b Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Overedge Finish (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Overedge Finish& Blindstitch



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STANDARD BUTTON SETTING:

Button Placement aligned at Buttonhole outer end. Leather and Suede - Stay button for all functional buttons.

B8-3 Outside Button Setting

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg

Outside Button:* Set w/ Lockstitch machine* Thread Shank w/ wrap (except Button w/ self shank)

* Logo Buttons set w/ logo in same direction.

Button Setting:* 2-Hole Button: Align 2 holes w/ Buttonhole.

* 4-Hole Button: Set w/ "X" stitch (unless specified otherwise).


B8-4 Inside Button Setting

Inside Button: * 2-Hole Button;* Dyed to Match; Matte Finish

* Set w/ 2 holes aligned w/ buttonhole * Stitch through inner layer only.



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STANDARD INSIDE BUTTONHOLE TYPES & PLACEMENT:

Ann Taylor StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 wide For Waistband Height wider than 1

B8-5 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"

* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband

NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:

B8-6 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider

Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband


NOTE: See Spec Pkg for * Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

LOFT & Factory StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 wide For Waistband Height wider than 1


NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:

B8-7 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"

Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband

B8-8 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider




NOTE: See Spec Pkg for

STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 16 62)



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ZIPPER CLOSURES:

*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg

A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

A4-2a Kissing Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom


A4-3a Exposed Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom


Invisible Zipper: Sealed at bottom Length: 1 1/2 longer than Opening Order to length do not cut to length.


A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

Seam Line

Bottom ofZipper

Interlining Width:1/4" beyondseam line

Interlining Length: 1" beyond

Zipper Opening

A4-a Invisible Zipper Interlining -Pant / Skirt:

A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband

Inside of Waistband

* Clip seam allowance at 1" from opening edge.* Open press Waistband seam allowance 1".

Press seam allowance toward Waistband

w/ Zipper to top edge

Zipper Sealed End

Shell -Inside of Garment

Lining

A4-4a Invisible Zipper -Inner Construction; LINED

* Stitch Zipper Tape tailto one seam allowance

*BIAS Skirts: Do notstitch Zipper Tail to

seam allowance.

Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2"longer than

Zipper Opening

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED

Sealed End

* Stitch Zipper Tape tailto one seam allowance


seam allowance.

Inside of Garment

Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2"longer than

Zipper Opening

* Stitch Zipper Tapetail to one seam allowance


seam allowance.

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED

Sealed End

* Safety Stitch seam

from 2 1/2" belowZipper Tail* Press to Back or

Wearer's Left Back

Open Press forZipper Setting

Lockstitch

Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longerthan Zipper Opening



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FLY CLOSURES:Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:

NOTE: Sketch for Fly Constructiononly.

See Spec Package for:Inside Waist FinishOutside Closure

Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down

from seam.Bottom: maximum upfrom Fly stitch.

FlySeam

Backstitch orEdgestitch(per Spec Pkg)

1 1/4"

Inside top edge:1/8" belowoutside top edge

B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband -

2 1/2"

ImaginaryFly seam line 2 1/2"

Inside of Garment

Standard Measurements

* Reinforce Fly Openingw/ Stitch-tack or Bartack

* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)

B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

Inside of Garment

Raw edge

Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge

Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

Wearer'sLeftClean Finish Backstitch

or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg

Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband

NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction

only.

See Spec Package for:Inside Waist FinishOutside Closure

Zipper Placement:Top: maximum downfrom seam.Bottom: maximum upfrom Fly stitch.

Inside top edge:

B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband

Facing

Inside of Garment

Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg

Wearer'sLeft

1 1/4"

2 1/2"

Fly Seam

Standard Measurments

1/8" belowoutside top edge

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined

* NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg

Clean FinishEdgestitch


Wearer'sLeft

Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg

* Reinforce Fly Openingw/ Stitch-tack or Bartack

* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head

(w/ zipper fully open)

Buttonhole Type per Standard

w/ Button Closure



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FLY CLOSURES: (continued)

Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):

NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction only.

See Spec Package for:Finish at bottom of Fly ExtensionInside Waist FinishInside / Outside Waistband ExtensionOutside Closure

Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down from seam.Bottom: maximum up from Flystitch.

1 1/2"Wide,Topto

Bottom

B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band

FlySeam

B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom

Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End


Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment


EdgestitchClean Finis h

Fold

* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack


1 1/2" InsideExtension

Clean Finish

B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottomInside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End



Clean Finish Edgestitch

Fold

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

1" Extension to corner

3/4" Point



Clean Finish

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Fold


B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom No Inside Extension



* See Spec Pkg forWaistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)

Clean Finish



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ay o G oba Sou c g Sta da d Co st uct o Gu de es



Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Overedge Stitch at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):




1 1/2"Wide,Topto

Bottom


Fly

Seam

B4-15a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom; Inside Waistband Extension w/Straight End


Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment


EdgestitchClean Finis h

Fold




Overedge Stitch

B4-15b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge bottomInside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End



Clean Finish Edgestitch

Fold

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment


3/4" Point



Overedge Stitch

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Fold


B4-15c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom No Inside Extension




Overedge Stitch



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Straight 2-Piece Fly Extension(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):




1 1/2"Wide,Topto

Bottom


Fly

Seam


B4-6a 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Straight End

Clean Finish


Outside of Garment

Seam w/BackstitchOR Edgestitch

Edgestitch

* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum

1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)


Inside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Clean Finish


Edgestitch

Outside of Garment


B4-6b 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Point End

* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack


Seam w/BackstitchorEdgestitch

3/4" Point



* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack


Seam w/BackstitchorEdgestitch

B4-6c 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension

Outside of Garment


Inside of Garment

Edgestitch


w/Outside Waistband Extension



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Fly Closure - Straight Fly Extension, without Waistband Ladies Button Fly Closure


See Spec Package for:Finish at bottom of Fly ExtensionInside Waist FinishOutside Closure

Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down fromseam.Bottom: maximum up from Flystitch.

1 1/2"Wide,Topto

Bottom

B4-11b Straight Fly Extension Width

w/ Facing

NOTE:Facing Finish per Spec Pkg.

Fly

Seam

Edgestitch

Outside of Garment Inside of Garment

B4-9 Button Fly Ladies Closure

* Bartack to reinforceFly Opening


Fold

Waist SeamWaist Seam

W a i s t S

e a m

Fashion Fly ClosuresB4-3 Shaped Fly Extension w/Binding Edge Finish

Outside of Garment

Wearer'sLeft

Inside of Garment

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg.


Edgestitch


* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head

(w/ zipper fully open)

Full CleanFinishBinding

Clean Finish Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg

Inside of Garment

B4-4 Shaped Fly Extension w/Binding Finish

Full CleanFinishBinding



Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

Clean Finish



Wearer'sLeft

Backstitch orEdgestitch.See Spec Pkg.



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Ladies Fly Closure & Mens Fly Closures:

B4-12a Ladies Fly Closure w/ Waistband

Outside of Garment - Closed

NOTE: Waistband w/ orw/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.


B4-12b Ladies Fly Closure w/ Facing

NOTE: Facing w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.


B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Waistband* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure

NOTE: Waistband w/ or

w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.

NOTE: Facing w/ or

w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.

* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure

B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Facing




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WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH:

OpeningEdge

a. Waistband w/Straight Front Edge

Crackstitch

OpeningEdge

Crackstitch

b. Waistband w/Straight Outside Extension

B1 Waistband Closed w/ Crackstitch Finish

Outside Views

OpeningEdge

c. Waistband w/Pointed Outside Extension

Crackstitch

Clean Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View

OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg)

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Crackstitch

TurnBackEdge Seam allowance

Stay Tape

Inner ConstructionTurn Back

Inner Waistband

Outer WB

B1-1a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband

Topedgeseam

B1-1b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

OpeningEdge (SeeSpecPkg)

See Spec Pkg forWaistband end

Inside View

Seam allowance

Outer WB

Clean Finish TurnBackEdge

Inner Construction

CrackstitchInner Waistband

Turn Back

Top edge



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WAISTBAND CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):

Overedge Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View

Opening Edge(SeeSpecPkg)

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Crackstitch

OveredgeSeam allowance

Overedge

Inner Construction

Outer WB

B1-2a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Inner Waistband


Top

edgeseam

Stay Tape


B1-2b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Clean Finish


Inside View

Overedge

Inner Waistband Crackstitch

Outer WB

OveredgeSeam allowance

Inner Construction

Top edge

Binding Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View

O

peningEdge(SeeSpecPkg)

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Crackstitch

3/16" Binding Seam allowance

Binding

Outer WB

Inner Construction

B1-3a Contour Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Inner Waistband


Topedgeseam

Stay Tape

O

peningEdge(See SpecPkg)

B1-3b Straight Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Clean Finish

Inside View


Binding

Inner Waistband Crackstitch

Outer WB

3/16" BindingSeam allowance

Inner Construction

Top edge



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WAISTBAND CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):

Curtain Finish at Inside Edge(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)

Opening Edge(SeeSpecPkg)

Crackstitch Bias setin seam

Waistband

Inside View

Inner Construction

Outer WB Seam allowance

Stay Tape

B1-5 Straight Waistband w/Curtain Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/ Crackstitch

Curtain Binding

Inner Waistband


Self

WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED: See Spec Package Design Details for Topstitching Details (Single or Double Needle).

OpeningEdge

a. Waistband w/

Straight Front Edge

Crackstitch

OpeningEdge

Crackstitch

b. Waistband w/

Straight Outside Extension

B1-6 Waistband closed w/ Crackstitch & Topstitched

Outside Views

OpeningEdge


Crackstitch



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WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:


Inside View

OpeningEdg

e

Clean FinishCrackstitch

TurnBackEdge

Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)

B1-7a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched


Inner Construction

Seam allowance

Inner Waistband

OuterWB

Stay Tape

Raw Edge

TopEdge

* See Spec Pkg for Closure

Backstitch

OpeningEdge

B1-7b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched


TurnBackEdge

CrackstitchClean Finish


Inside View

Inner Waistband

Seam allowanceOuter WB

Inner Construction

Raw Edge

Top edge

Backstitch


Overedge at Inside Edge

OpeningEdge

CleanFinish

Crackstitch

Overedge

Inside ViewTopstitch (see Spec Pkg)

B1-8a Contour Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched

Overedge

Inner Waistband

Outer WB

Seam allowance

Inner Construction

Stay Tape


TopEdge

Backstitch


OpeningEdge

B1-8b Straight Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched


Inside View

CleanFinish

Inner Waistband

Inner Construction

Overedge

Crackstitch

Outer WB


Seam allowance

Overedge

Top edge

Backstitch




28/63


WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ EDGESTITCH:

OpeningEdge

OpeningEdge

OpeningEdge

B1-9 Waistband closed w/ Edgestitch

b. Waistband w/Straight Outside Extension

Outside Views

Crackstitch

a. Waistband w/Straight Front Edge

Crackstitch


Crackstitch


OpeningEdge

Inside View

Clean Finish

TurnBackEdge

Edgestitch all around

B1-10a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish Inside Edge; Closed w/ Edgestitch


Inner Construction

Seam allowance

Inner Waistband

Outer WB

Stay Tape

Raw Edge

TopEdge

B1-10b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish Inside Edge; Closed w/ Edgestitch


Clean Finish

OpeningEdge


Inside View

Inner Waistband

Seam allowance

TurnBackEdge

Outer WB

Inner Construction

Raw Edge

Top edge



29/63


WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ EDGESTITCH (continued):

Overedge Finish at Inside Edge w / Edgestitch

OpeningEdge

B1-11a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/Edgestitch

CleanFinish

Inside View

Overedge


Overedge

Inner Waistband

Outer WB

Seam allowance

Inner Construction

Stay Tape


Top

Edge

OpeningEdge

B1-11b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Edgestitch


Inside View

CleanFinish

Inner Waistband

Inner Construction

Seam allowanceOveredgeOuter WB


Overedge

Top edge

Clean Finish at Inside Edge w / 1/8 Topstitch

Inside View

OpeningEdge

Clean Finish

TurnBackEdge

1/8" Topstitch

B1-12a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ 1/8" Topstitched


Inner Construction

Seam allowance

Inner Waistband

Outer WB

Stay Tape

Raw Edge

TopEdge


Backstitch

OpeningEdge

B1-12b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ 1/8" Topstitched

1/8" Topstitch

TurnBackEdgeClean Finish


Inside View

Inner Waistband

Seam allowanceOuter WB

Inner Construction

Raw Edge

Top edge

Backstitch




30/63


WAIST FACING OPTIONS:

OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg.)

Waist Facing

Inside View

Overedge,Bendback & Edgestitch

Backstitch

Inside of Waist Facing

Waist Join Seam

Inner Construction

Bottom Edgeof Facing

Stay Tape

Overedge,Turnback &Edgestitch

Backstitch

B2-1 Waist Facing w/Overedge, Bendback & Edgestitch Finish

OpeningEdge(See

SpecPkg.)

Waist Facing

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Inside View


OveredgeFacing Edge

Overedge

Waist JoinSeam

Inner Construction

Stay Tape

B2-2 Waist Facing w/Overedge Finish

Backstitch

Inside View


Waist Facing

Clean Finish

Backstitch

3/16" BindingStay Tape

Binding @Facing Edge

Inner Construction


Facing Seam

Backstitch

B2-3 Waist Facing w/Binding Finish; (w/ or w/o Lining)



31/63


OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:

OpeningEdge (SeeSpecPkg.)

Fold EdgestitchBinding

Inside View

Inner Construction

Inside of WaistBinding

Waist Join SeamStay Tape

Edgestitch

B2-5a Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Edgestitched (w/ or w/o Lining)

Top Edge

TopEdge ofBinding

BindingEdgestitch

OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg.)

Fold

Outside View

Opening Edge(SeeSpecPkg.)

Fold CrackstitchBinding

Inside View

Inner Construction

Inside of WaistBinding

Waist Join SeamStay Tape

Crackstitch

B2-5b Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Crackstitched (w/ or w/o Lining)

Top Edge

TopEdge ofBinding

Fold Crackstitch

OpeningEdge (SeeSpecPkg.)

Outside View



32/63


BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:

B3-1 Clean Finish @ Top;Single Bendback @ Bottom w/Bartack

(2) Reverse bendback

(4) Bartack (3) Single bendback

(1) Stitch-tack

B3-2 Clean Finish @ Bottom;Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack

(4) Bartack (3) SingleBendback

(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack

(4) ReverseBendback

(5) OutsideStitch-tack

(3) InsideStitch-tack


B3-3b Clean Finish Top & BottomOutside Stitch-tack @ Top

(4) ReverseBendback




B3-3c Clean Finish Top & BottomInside Stitch-tack

B3-4 Set in @ Waistband Join SeamOutside Bartack - Top & Bottom

(4) OutsideBartack (3) Single

Bendback

(2) Outside Bartack (1) Set intoWaistband

B3-5 Set in @ Waistband Join SeamOutside Bartack - Top

(4) OutsideBartack (3) Single

Bendback

(2) Inside Stitch-tack or Bartack

(1) Set intoWaistband



33/63


BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:

B3-6 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Inside Stitch-tack


(4) ReverseBendback

(3) Stitch-tack


(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack

B3-7 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top w/Outside Bartack

(5) OutsideBartack (4) Reverse

Bendback

(3) Stitch tack

(2) Stitch tack or Bartack


B3-7b Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Stitch-tack

(5) OutsideStitch-tack (4) Reverse

Bendback

(3) Stitch-tack

(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack


(3) Stitch-tack

(4) ReverseBendback

(1) Set into

Waistband

(5) Bartack

(2) Bartack

B3-8 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Bartack Top & Bottom

B3-9 Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Inside Stitch-tack

(4) Stitch-tack (3) ReverseBendback

(2) Stitch-tack


B3-10b Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Top Outside Stitch-tack

(4) Bartack

(3) ReverseBendback

(2) Stitch-tack



( d)


34/63


BELT LOOPS OPTIONS (Continued):

B3-12 Set in Top Edge &Waistband Join Seam

Set intoWaistband

Set intoWaistband Inside Stitch-tack

Press w/ Seam centered

A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop

A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop

Seam at edge.

Top side Under side

A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop

A12-3a Folder Finish-Belt Loop

A12-3b Wide Folder Finish - Belt Loop

A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/Tear Drop (at seam)

Seam

A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop /Tear Drop (at edge)

A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/Tear Drop (set in Seam)

A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop(set in Seam)


WELT POCKET OPTIONS


35/63


WELT POCKET OPTIONS:

Welt Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch

B5-1a Back Welt Pocket -No Edgestitch

Outside of Garment


B5-1b Back Welt Pocket -w/ Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B5-1c Back Welt Pocket -no Edgestitch


Outside of Garment

Note: w/ or w/o Waistband

Outside of Garment

Note: w/ or w/oWaistband

B5-1d Back Welt Pocketw/ Edgestitch


Besom Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Dartsw/ 1+1 Back Darts

B5-2a Back Besom Pocket -No Edgestitch

Outside of Garment


Note: w/ or w/o Waistband

B5-2b Back Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch



Outside of Garment

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B5-2c Back Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch



Outside of Garment

B5-2d Back Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch

Outside of Garment





36/63


BESOM POCKET OPTIONS:

Welt & Besom Pockets - Front PocketsHorizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch).


B5-1e Front - Welt

Outside of Garment

Pocket - No Edgestitch


B5-1f Front Welt

Outside of Garment

Pocket - w/ Edgestitch

B5-2e Front Besom Pocket -no Edgestitch

Outside of Garment


B5-2f Front Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch


Outside of Garment

POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET:

Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -

Length:4 1/2" from upperWelt seam

Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch

Upper Seam

Facing Appliedonto Pocket Bag

Version 2:Self-Facing

1) Full Self OR

2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

Top & Under Pocket Bag:



B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish


Pkt Bag set in Waist /

Waistband stitch

Upper Seam

Facing Applied ontoPocket Bag


1) Full Self Pocket Bag

OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)


Fold

* Clean finish* Seam allowance

enclosed

Backtackcorner

Backtackcorner Fold


enclosed



B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length



37/63


BESOM & WELT POCKET OPTIONS:

Vertical or Angled Besom & Welt Pockets

Outside of Garment

B5-3a Vertical Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch

Seam

w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch


Seam

Outside of Garment

B5-3b Vertical Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch




B5-3c Vertical Welt Pocket - no Edgestitch


Seam

Outside of Garment



B5-3d Vertical Welt Pocket - w/ Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

Seam


Vertical Welt & Besom Pocket - Inside of Garment

Seam

Inside of Garment

Waist Edge1) Full Self OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

SetFacing

ontoBag




38/63


ON SEAM POCKET OPTIONS:

Vertical On Seam PocketsPocket Bag Terms:

Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.

Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

Inside Stitch-tack

Seam

B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack

Outside of Garmentw/ inside Stitch-tack

Seam

Inside of Garment

See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.


Waist Edge

Inside Stitch-tack

Seam

Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks

Bartack


Bartack


Seam

Inside of Garment

Waist Edge

B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack


Inside Stitch-tack

Seam

Seam

Inside Stitch-tack

B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack


Outside of Garmentw/ inside Stitch-tack

Waist Edge

Inside of Garment

* Topstitch Opening* See Design Detail

Sketch for spacing.

Seam

Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks

Bartack


Bartack See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.

Seam

Inside of Garment

Waist Edge

B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack

* Topstitch Opening* See Design Detail

Sketch for spacing.



39/63



Vertical On Seam Pocket Facings

Backstitch@OpeningEdge

SelfFacing

Seam

Seam

Inside of Garment

B5-5a Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Applied Facing;

Under Pocket bag

SelfFacing

Seam

Top Pocket bag

Facing applied onto Pocket BagStitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.

Waist Edge


Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.

Seam

B5-5b Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Self Extended Facing

Top & UnderFacingsextend fromFront & Back

Inside of Garment

Stitch-tack orBartack 1/2" down

from Waist seam

Waist Edge




40/63


Horizontal / Angled On Seam PocketsPocket Bag Terms:

Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

B5-4c Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -No Topstitch @ Opening


Seam

Inside of GarmentStitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.

Pocket Opening

Backstitch along inside edge

Poc k eting

Top Pocket Bag: 1 Piece self or pocketing fabric. See Spec Pkg Trim pg.

Under Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment

B5-6a On-Seam Pocket Bag - Applied Facing -for Horizontal / Angled Pocket

Pocketing

Under Pocket Bag

On-Seam Pocket seam

Self-AppliedFacing

Clean Finish or Overedge

"Face" side ofUnder Pocket Bag

B5-4d Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -Topstitch @ Opening

Pocket Opening

Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.


Seam

Inside of Garment

* EdgestitchOR * Backstitch inside edge & Topstitch** See Spec pkg

Pocket Bag: Self or pocketing fabric.See Spec Pkg Trim pg.

B5-6b On-Seam Pocket Bag - 1 Piece Top & Under for Horizontal / Angled Pocket

Pocket Bag

Inside of Garment

Seam


QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:


41/63



Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

Inside Stitch-tack1/2" up

Inside Stitch-tack1/2" down

B5-8a Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistbandw/ Inside Stitch-tack

Waistband

Outside of Garment

Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

B5-8b Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband w/ Bartack

Bartack See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch

Outside of Garment


Waistband


B5-8c Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam

SideSeam

Waistband

Under Pocket

LiningorPocketing fabric


Self-Quarter Top Piece;applied onto Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Pocket Bagset into Waist Seam

Self Under Pocket Bag

SideSeam

SideSeam


Waistband

Under Pocket

B5-8d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Side Seam

See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication

Pocket Bag

set into Waist seam

Under Pocket

B5-8e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -Shaped Self Facing; w/ Open Pressed Side Seam


Waistband

Side Seam

Pocket Bagset into Waist seam






42/63


Quarter Top Pocket w/ NO Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B5-9a Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband w/inside Stitch-tack

Waist Top Edge

SideSeam

Outside of Garment

Inside Stitch-tack1/2" up

Inside Stitch-tack1/2" down Pocket Opening -

w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

B5-9b Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband w/ Bartack

SideSeam

Outside of Garment

Waist T op Edge


Bartack See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch


B5-9c Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam


SideSeam


SideSeam


Waist Facing

Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge

B5-9d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Seam

Self Under Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Under Pocket

See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication

Waistband

Pocket Bag toTop edge

SideSeam



SideSeam

Waist Facing

Self-Quarter Top Piece;

applied onto Pocket Bag


Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge

B5-9e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband - Shaped Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam




43/63



L-Shape* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

Outside of Garment

B5-11a L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -No Topstitch

SideSeam

Inside Seam

Waist Seam

B5-11b L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Single Needle Topstitch

Single

Topstitch;See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch

SideSeam

w/ or w/oBartack;See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch

Outside of Garment

Inside SeamWaist Seam

B5-11c L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Double Needle Topstitch

Dbl Needle TopstitchSee Spec Pkg -Detail sketch

SideSeam

w/ or w/oBartack;See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch

Outside of GarmentSeam or StitchedthroughWaist Seam


SelfAppliedto PocketBag

SideSeam

SideSeam

Facing

PocketingTop Pocket Bag

SideSeam

PocketingUnder Pocket Bag

Pocket Bags - Inner View

Under Pocket Bag

Reinforcementstitch at PocketOpening

B5-11 L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing - Inside of Garment

Backstitch(except w/ Dbl Ndl Topstitch)

Inside Seam

Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment




44/63


Q

Quarter Top Pocket w/ Self Pocket Bag

Topstitch through all Layers;See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

B5-10 Quarter Top Pocket - Self Pkt Bag; Set to Shell

Outside of Garment

SideSeam

Inside of Garment

Topstitchthrough allLayers

Under

Pocket Bag

Full Bendbackw/ Topstitch

Waist Seam Waist Seam

Scoop Pocket Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitching. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing

w/ or w/oTopstitch

SideSeam

Outside of Garment

Waist Seam

SideSeam

Inside of Garment

Self Appliedto Pocket Bag

Applied toPocketing

Top Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Facing

Inner Pocket View of Pocket Bag (before Bag is seamed)

Backstitch

B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing - Inner Construction

Waist Seam

Under Pocket BagTop Pocket Bag


QUARTER TOP POCKET BAG OPTIONS:


45/63


Pocket Bag Terms & Dimensions: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

SideSeam

Under Pocket

Waist Seam

4 3/4"

8 1/2"

Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam

6 1/2"

B5-14a Regular Quarter Top Pocket Bag - w/ Waistband

SideSeam

6 1/2"

B5-14b Quarter Top Pocket Bag - NO Waistband

Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam

4 3/4"

Under Pocket

8 1/2" fromWaistline position

B5-14c Short Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Under PocketPocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam

4 1/2"

5 1/2"

6 1/2"

Waist Seam


JEAN POCKET BAG OPTIONS:


46/63


Pocket Bartack Details: Scoop Pocket and Coin Pocket -

with or without Bartack. Bartack - Vertical, Horizontal or Diagonal. See Spec Package.

Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of

garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and

Under Pocket Bag.

Note: See spec pkg forRivet/Bartack detail

Pocket BagSet to Edge

Outseam

Bartack

Outside of Garment

Waist Seam

B5-12a Jean/Scoop Pocket(no Facing) - w/Bartacks

B5-12c Jean Coin Pocket w/Bartacks

Outseam

Wearer's Right

Waist SeamOutside of Garment

Bartack

Bartack

Pocket BagSet to Edge

Y N L

A R O N

N O R L Y N

A T A

T

A

Outseam

N

Y O L

N

R

L

N

O

N

Y A T

A

R A

A T

Outside of Garment

Rivets

Note: See spec pkg for

Rivet/Bartack detail

B5-12b Jean/Scoop Pocket(no Facing) - w/Rivets

Waist Seam

Outseam

A R

L

N

A Y T

O

N

R A

O Y L

A

N N

T

Wearer's Right

Waist Seam

Outside of GarmentB5-12d Jean Coin Pocket w/Rivets

L

N

A Y O

N

Rivets O R A

Y L

A

N N A

T

R

N A R O

T

N O R A Y L

A

N T

L

N

A Y T

O N A R

A

T Y A Y

L T

N A

N O

L R N

Rivets

SideSeam Fold

Inside of Garment

Self Appliedto Pocket Bag

Inner View - Under Pocket Bag

Under Pocket Bag

Waist SeamWaist Seam

B5-12 Jean/Scoop Pocket (no Facing)


PATCH POCKET OPTIONS:* N S S k f k Sh d i h d il


47/63


* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detailB5-15a Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/o Topstitch -

Lined or Unlined

Raw edgew/ or w/oStaystitch

Seamedinside

B5-15b Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/ Topstitch - Lined or Unlined

Raw edgew/ or w/oStaystitch

Seamedinside

SingleBendback

Rawedgew/ or w/oOveredge

Set Pocket w/ Topstitch

B5-16 Patch Pocket-Topstitched Setting

B5-17 Patch Pocket Lined to Top Edge

Lined to Top edge Set Pocket w/ Topstitch

Lining

PATCH POCKET BENDBACK FACING OPTIONS:

Outside View Inside View

1" Bendback Facing

Lining

B5-18a Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing -Lined

Outside View

1" Bendback Facing

Inside View

Overedge &Topstitched

B5-18b Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

1" Bendback Facing

Inside View

Clean Finish(bendback Facingseam allowance)& Topstitched

Outside View

B5-18c Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

B5-18d Patch Pocket w/Full Bendback Facing- Unlined

Outside View

Clean Finish& Topstitched

Full Bendback Facing;See Spec pkgfor Topstitch detail.

Inside View


PATCH POCKET ATTACHED FACING OPTIONS:* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.


48/63


p g p p


Lining

Backstitch (if not Topstitched)

5-19a Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing -Lined

See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight


Overedge &Topstitched

5-19b Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

Backstitch (if not Topstitched)See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight

Inside View

Clean Finish& Topstitched

Outside View

Backstitch (if not Topstitched)

B5-19c Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight

PATCH POCKET REINFORCEMENT OPTIONS:

Triangle Stitch

(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)

B5-20a Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner

Rectangle Stitch

B5-20b Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner


Diagnal Stitch

B5-20c Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner


Horizontal Stitch

B5-20d Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner


HorizontalBartack

B5-20e Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner


PATCH POCKET W/ CURVED OPENING:

Diagonal Bartack

B5-20f Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner


Vertical Bartack

B5-20g Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner


Waist Seam

B5-22a Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Lined

Outside of Garment

Self FacingBackstitchif needed

Inside of Pocket (before set)

SideSeam

SideSeam

Lining

SideSeam

SideSeam

B5-22b Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Unlined

Inside of Pocket (before set)Waist Seam

Self Facing

Outside of Garment

BendbackFinish


POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:


49/63


Welt Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

Flap set in upperWelt seam

B6-1a Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

Underflap:Bias


Outside of Garment

Backstitch

Waist Seam

Outside of Garment


B6-1b Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch


Underflap:Bias

See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail

Waist Seam

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

Underflap:Bias


Waist Seam

Outside of Garment


Backstitch

B6-1c Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

B6-1d Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch


Outside of Garment



Waist Seam

Underflap:Bias

Besom Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.w/ 1+1 Back Darts

Waist Seam

Outside of Garment

B6-2a Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias

Flap set inBesom upperSeam * w / or w/o

Bartack

See spec pkg -Detail Sketch

B6-2b Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch


* w / or w/oBartack


Outside of Garment

Under Flap:Bias

Flap set inBesom upperSeam

Waist Seam

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

Waist Seam

Outside of Garment

B6-2c Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch



Bartack


B6-2d Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch


* w / or w/oBartack


Outside of Garment

Under Flap:Bias


Waist Seam




50/63


Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Flap Front PocketsHorizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch)


B6-1e Front Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

Underflap:Bias


Outside of Garment

Backstitch

Outside of Garment


B6-1f Front Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch


Underflap:Bias


Outside of Garment

B6-2e Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch



Bartack


B6-2f Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch


* w / or w/oBartack


Outside of Garment

Under Flap:Bias


POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET W/ FLAP:


Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -



Upper Seam

Facing Appliedonto Pocket Bag


1) Full Self OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)




B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish



Upper Seam

Facing Applied ontoPocket Bag


1) Full Self Pocket BagOR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)


Fold


enclosed

Backtackcorner

Backtackcorner Fold


enclosed



B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length




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Patch Pocket w/ Flap* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B6-3 Bluff Patch Pocket w/Flap -No Topstitch at Edge

Raw edge

enclosed

Under Flap:Bias

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends

* See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail

B6-4a Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched Stitch-tack at Flap corners

Under Flap:Bias

Raw Edge

Enclosed

B6-4b Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched Bartack at Flap corners

Raw EdgeEnclosed

* See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Bartack at endsUnder Flap:

Bias

Under Flap Bias Cut

Bias

Underflap:*Cut smaller than outer flap.*Cut on bias.

B6-5 Under Flap -Pattern & Cutting Direction


POCKETS W/ BUTTON CLOSURE - OPTIONS:


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Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Button Closure Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B7-1a Welt Pocket w/ Button& Vertical Buttonhole

Outside of Garment

* Welt w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack

See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

B7-1b Welt Pocket w/ Button& Horizontal Buttonhole

Outside of Garment

* Welt w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack


B7-2a Besom Pocket w/ Button& Horizontal Buttonhole

Outside of Garment

* Besom w/ or w/oTopstitch / Bartack


B7-2b Besom Pocket w/Button & Loop Closure

Outside of Garment

* Besom w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack

* See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

Welt & Besom w/ Flap & Button ClosureB7-3a Besom Pocket w/ Vertical Wide Flap & Button Closure

Wide Flap w/VerticalButton Hole

* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details

B7-3b Besom Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure

Narrow Flapw/ HorizontalButton Hole


B7-3c Welt Pocket w/ Flap & Button Closure

Wide Flap w/VerticalButton Hole


Narrow Flapw/ HorizontalButton Hole

B7-3d Welt Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure


Patch Pocket w/ Button Closure B7-4a Patch Pocket w/Vertical

Buttonhole & Button Closure

See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type

* Topstitch Detail* Bartack

B7-4b Patch Pocket w/Horiztonal Buttonhole & Button Closure





B7-5a Patch Pocket w/Flap Vertical Buttonhole &

Button Closure

B7-5b Patch Pocket w/Flap HoriztonalButtonhole &

Button Closure




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VENTS:


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A13-6 Vent-Unlined; Lapped; Topstitched


VentEdge

Seam

With or without Tack (see Spec Pkg.)

Topstitch

Full Dbl Bendback

Seam

*See spec pkg for Topstitching & Hem type

A13-7 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; Topstitched


SeamTopstitch

LiningDbl Bendback w/Topstitch

Seam

Backstitch

VentEdge

Open Bottom

Blocked Hem

A13-8 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; No Topstitch


CtrBackSeam

LiningDbl Bendback w/Topstitch

CtrBackSeam

Backstitch

VentEdge

Open Bottom

Blocked Hem

Top of Vent

VENT & SLIT X TACK:

NOTE: Sketch is for X Tack only. See Spec pkg. for Vent style details.

A14 Slit-"X" Tack

* No tack if fabricwill be damaged

from tack.

Top of Slit

for Shipping

Outside Garment

Seam

A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack

for Shipping

VentEdge

"X" Tack for Shipping


BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:

A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler


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Folded

A6-1 Full Clean Finish

w/Edgestitch

A9 3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler

Outside of Garment Inside ofGarment

Backstitch

Edge finished w/Facing OR Lining

Piping w/ or w/o Filler

Note: No Backstitch ifedge is Topstitched

BUTTONHOLES:A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish

Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)

Underside

(Straight Buttonhole)Topside

A10-4b Bound Buttonhole -Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole

A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched

Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)

A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather

Topside Underside

A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end

Bartack

w/ or w/o Gimp Filler(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-2 Keyhole Buttonholew/ Fishtail End

w/ or w/o Gimp(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-3 Regular/StraightButtonhole

A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole - Horizontal

Seam

A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole -Vertical

Seam


ZIPPER TERMS:Note: See Specification Pkg. for Right or Left Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.


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(A) Closed end -

Normal type

(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended

Closed

(B) 2 - Ended

Closed

(D) 2 Pulls -2 Open Ends

(D) 1 Pull

Open End

Common Zipper Types

(A) Closed end -Invisible type

SealedEnd

Sealedat Top

Tape Ends

Stringer

Cord

Bead

Bottom Stop

Slider

Chain

Pull

Teeth

Top Stops

Retainer

Separable Pin

Retainer Pin

Opened Tape Closed

Basic Zipper Construction Terms

TapeWidth

ChainWidth

Length ofFastener

Zipper Dimension Terms


HOOK & EYE TYPES:


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A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye

A11-1b Hook &

Straight Eye

A11-1c Hook & Loop

Hook & Loop Eye Setting at inside top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting at inside top of zipper

A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye

Set Zipperw/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down fromfinished top edge

at Inside Top of Zipper

A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop

Set Zipperw/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down fromfinished top edge

at Inside Top of Zipper


LOOP & FROG CLOSURES:

A10 6 C h t B tt L

A10-7a Button Loop -

A10-7b Button Loop -


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A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -Kissing Setting

A10-6b Crochet Button Loop - Open Setting

A10 7a Button Loop Kissing Setting

pOpen Setting

A10-7c Button Loop -Closed Setting

Top Side

Under side of Loop

A10-8 Folder Button Loop

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure

OTHER CLOSURES:

A11-2a Hook & Bara. Machine Set

* Note: Reinforce w/Self or Interlining

A11-2b Hook & Bar b. Hand Set

A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape

Hook Tape Loop Tape


DECORATIVE STITCHES:

DST-1 Pearl Stitch*Overedge stitch w/ 18 26 Stitches per Inch depending on finish needed

DST-2 Shell Stitch*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape


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Inside Garment

Pearl Stitch

Outside Garment

*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.

Outside Garment

*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape.

Shell Stitch

Inside Garment

* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to havewavy Lettuce leaf edge.

* See spec pkg for stitch width & density.

Outside Garment

DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch

Lettuce Edge

Surging Stitch

Inside Garment

DST-4 Picot Stitch

Outside Garment

* Two thread multi-step Chainstitchformed just off edge.

Picot Stitch

DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting*Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges.*See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.

Two Needle Fagoting

DTS-6 Pick Stitch*See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.

* Stitch Length and Spacingmay be even or uneven.

Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction GuidelinesDECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):

DST-7 Saddle Stitch* Overedge stitch

DST-8 Blanket Stitch


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* Stitch Length and Spacingare equal size.

* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).

Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.

Overedge stitch.* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.

Outside Garment

Blanket Stitch

Inside Garment

Step 2 - Topside Step 2 - Underside

Seam at top of tuck

Double Needle w/ Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside * closes fold * creates tuck

* See Spec Pkgfor Tuck Height

Seam at top of tuck

Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside

DTS-9 Air Tucking

Documents

Construction Casual Bottoms (Unlined)