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Adding a Lining to an Unlined Commercial Pattern
By Kate Freeburg
How Many times have you looked through
pattern books, found the perfect pattern? Almost anyway, but
you wanted the garment to be lined but the description
says “unlined”.
Tools you will need
• Pattern
• Tissue Paper
• Ruler
• Tape (I recommend Scotch Magic tape ½” , in the green box)
• French curve
• Colored Pencils (I like Prismacolor)
• Cardboard cutting mat
• Pins (to hold pattern pieces down on cutting mat
• Optional – SA ruler (seam allowance ruler)
ConsiderationsBefore You
Start
• Are you using shoulder pads?
• Are you using a different size button than called for
• Do you want to off grain the center front?
• Do you have a center back seam?
• What is your hem allowance
Steps
• Trim your pattern
• Tissue fit pattern
• Make all adjustments to the pattern
• Trim facing pattern pieces as needed
• Create Lining pattern for front
• Create Lining pattern for Back
• Create lining pattern for Sleeve
Make Adjustments
to Your Pattern
Trim your facing pattern pieces
3” – 4"
1.5” – 2”
1.5” – 2”
• Draw the seam allowance on the facing
Creating the Front Lining
Pattern
• Pin your front pattern piece to your cardboard cutting mat
• Lay your altered front facing pattern piece on top
• Lay the tissue paper on top
• Trace the pattern on the tissue paper
• Mark the seam line of facing where it is sewn to the lining.
• Add the seam allowance to the lining pattern
Creating the Back Lining Pattern
• Follow the same steps as with the front pattern piece
Creating Back Lining Pattern
Continued• Shoulder Seam
• Under Arm
Seam allowance between neck facing and Lining
Use a ¼” seam allowance
Creating Sleeve Lining Pattern
• Pin sleeve pattern to cardboard cutting mat
• Trace pattern making adjustments at sleeve cap and underarm