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NATURAL RECYCLING: DEMONSTRATING COMPOSTING ENVIRONMENTAL STEWARDSHIP
IN ACTION This Guide has been produced by the Ministry of Health and Environment with technical and financial support from the GOJ/CIDA Environmental Action Programme. For additional information on environmental stewardship please contact:
Senior Director, Environment Ministry of Health & Environment
16A Half Way Tree Road, Kingston 10. Phone: 920-4081
Fax: 920-7267
GOJ/CIDA Environmental Action Programme
COMPOSTING: DEMONSTRATING NATURAL RECYCLING
ENVIRONMENTAL STEWARDSHIP
IN ACTION
A Practical Guide to Composting for Jamaican Institutions
April 2008
Ministry of Heath & Environment
About This Guide 1
Defining Composting 2
The Fundamentals of Composting
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Selecting the Compost Site 7
Composting Methods 13
The Benefits of Composting 15
Building and Managing the Compost Heap/Pile
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The Finished Product—The Compost
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Troubleshooting Composting Problems 26
Using the Compost Produced 28
Some Composting Questions & Answers 30
Key Composting Terminology 32
The Ingredients of a Compost Heap
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References 33
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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REFERENCES ENACT Prorgamme. 2006. Advanced Handbook in Envi-ronmental Stewardship. ENACT Programme. 2001. Handbook on Environmental Stewardship. Backyard Magic: The Composting Handbook. Available at: http://www.gnb.ca/0009/index-e.asp Composting 101: A Guide to Making Compost. Available at: http://www.composting101.com/ Compost Guide - Composting Fundamentals. Available at: http://vegweb.com/composting/ Composting. Available at: http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/non-hw/composting/index.htm How to Make Compost, A Complete Composting Guide. Available at: http://www.compostguide.com/links.html The Beauty of Compost Heaps. Available at: http://boldweb.com/gw/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=15&Itemid=25 Recycle Now, Compost at Home. Available at: http://www.recyclenow.com/home_composting/index.html
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KEY COMPOSTING TERMINOLOGY Activator— An accelerator that can expedite the natural decomposition process. Its purpose is to increase micro-bial activity. Aeration—The process of introducing air into the compost pile. This can be accomplished by turning the pile or using a compost aerator. Bacteria—A group of one-celled microorganisms that break down organic materials in the first stages of com-posting. Compost— Completely decayed organic matter used for conditioning soil. It is dark, odorless and rich in nutrients. Composting—The art and science of combining unwanted yard waste, food scraps, and other organic materials under controlled conditions so that the original raw ingredients are transformed into a soil conditioner/natural fertilizer. Humus—A dark, loamy organic material resulting from the decay of plants and animal refuse. Healthy and fertile soil will consist of about 3.5-5% of this soft, sweet-smelling and crumbly organic matter. Mulch—Any organic material, such as wood chips, grass clippings, compost, straw, or leaves that is spread over the soil surface (around plants) to hold in moisture, help con-trol weeds and eventually release nutrients to the soil Vermicomposting—Using redworms to convert food scraps and other organic materials into rich, dark compost.
ABOUT THIS GUIDE
T he Guide, Composting: Demonstrating Natural Recy-cling, provides information on the fundamentals of com-posting and is intended for use by various institutions
including government ministries and agencies. Though devel-oped primarily for operations staff, this Guide may also be used by all employees, as it provides practical ways of converting yard, select office, garden and kitchen waste into soil building compost. By the simple act of putting certain food scraps, yard clippings, fallen leaves, or anything of an organic nature into a compost heap we will be giving back to the earth a present of life. It is the supreme envi-ronmental act as it saves "trash" from going to landfill where it will receive very little air to decompose naturally. In a landfill what little matter does decay will be trapped deep within the earth, far too deep to be of much value to the plants on the surface. When this trash is used to build a compost heap, it becomes a valuable commodity, that will enrich and re-new the very earth it originally came from. This Guide is one of the many publications produced as part of the GOJ Environmental Stewardship of Government Operations Project, spearheaded by the Ministry of Health and Environment and funded by the GOJ/CIDA Environmental Action (ENACT) Programme, and like the other publications is intended to build the capacity of GOJ ministries and agencies to better manage aspects of their operations that may impact on the natural envi-ronment. Through this Guide we invite you to explore the environmen-tally-friendly world of composting.
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DEFINING COMPOSTING
C ompost is one of Nature's best mulches and soil amendments, and can be used instead of commer-cial fertilizers. Best of all, compost is inexpensive to
make. Using compost improves soil structure, texture, and aera-tion and increases the soil's water-holding capacity. Com-post loosens clay soils and helps sandy soils retain water. Adding compost to the soil improves soil fertility and stimulates healthy root development in plants. The organic
matter provided in compost provides food for microor-ganisms, which keeps the soil in a healthy, fertile and balanced condi-tion.
Composting is a simple technique that turns organic mate-rials, such as yard debris and some kinds of food scraps, into a rich soil amendment, which, when applied to lawns and gardens, can condition the soil and replenish nutrients. Composting is therefore Nature's way of recycling and is a critical step in reducing the volume of garbage sent to landfills for disposal. Composting also provides an alter-native means of managing waste. In other words “Don't throw away materials when you can use them to im-prove your lawn and garden! Start composting instead”. Composting is not a new idea. In the natural world, com-posting is what happens as leaves pile up on the forest
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SOME COMPOSTING QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
Finished Compost: When is compost "finished" and safe to use? When an active compost pile fails to heat up once more, and very little of the original material can be recognized (perhaps an eggshell or the shapes of old leaves), the com-post is ready to use. It will be the rich brown colour of good soil and smell something like the humus of a forest floor. Do I need to fertilize if I use compost? The nutritional value of compost depends on the materials that were used to make it -- one very good rea-son for putting as much variety into the pile as possible. If you are trying to enrich a severely de-pleted garden, or growing plants that demand a lot of food, you might want to add some commercially produced or-ganic fertilizer. Additional Information: Where can I get additional information? Some references are listed on page 35 of this Guide. Lo-cally you can get information from Rural Agricultural De-velopment Authority www.radajamaica.com.jm; as well as the Jamaica Environment Trust, www.jamentrust.org.
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SOME COMPOSTING QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
Structure/Space: Do I need a bin to make compost? No, organic matter will eventually decompose without hu-man help. However a container of some sort will keep your pile neat, protect it from the weather and pests, and make the job of tending it much easier. Where is the best place to put a compost pile? Pick a sheltered spot, out of the full sun if possible. Avoid trees and shrubs that may push their roots up into the pile. And give some thought to both convenience and appear-ance in choosing a location. Process/Problems: What if the pile has an odour? An earthy scent is normal and inoffensive, but a well-built compost shouldn't produce unpleasant odours. If it does, your problem is either too much "green" stuff (ammonia smell) or too little air (rotten-egg smell). First, aerate the pile. If the odour persists, turn and rebuild the pile with more "brown" materials. Should I wear gloves to handle compost? If you have not composted pet manures, which contain bac-teria harmful to humans, there is no need to wear gloves. Finished compost can be handled just as you would garden soil. Should I add ground limestone, soil and fertilizer? No! A perfectly good compost pile can be built out of noth-ing more than leaves and grass clippings.
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DEFINING COMPOSTING
Floor and fields and begin to decay. Eventually the rotting leaves are returned to the soil, where living roots can finish the recycling process by reclaiming the nutrients from the decomposed leaves. Most gardeners have long under-stood the value of this rich, dark, earthy material (humus) in improving the soil and creating a healthy environment for plants.
Composting usually involves mixing yard and organic waste in a heap/pile or bin and providing conditions that encourage decomposition. The decomposition process is fueled by millions of microscopic organisms (bacteria & fungi) that live inside the compost heap/pile, continuously devouring and recycling it to produce a rich organic fertil-izer and valuable soil amendment called compost or humus. Today, the use of composting to turn organic wastes into a valuable resource is expanding rapidly in many countries, as landfill space becomes scarce and expensive, and as people become more aware of the impacts they have on the environment. Composting is a viable option for Jamaica as over 70% of the country’s waste stream is biodegradable or organic—consisting primarily of yard waste, paper, and food waste.
THE NATURAL COMPOSTING PROCESS
Leaves/other organic matter breakdown by organ-isms humus mixing of humus and other soil components with the aid of the organisms natural soil improvement
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THE FUNDAMENTALS OF COMPOSTING
G ood composting is a matter of providing the proper environmental conditions for microbial life (e.g. fungi, bacteria). Microbes will slowly make com-
post out of yard and kitchen wastes under various condi-tions. However, like people, these living things need air, water, and food. If the pile is maintained to provide for their needs, they will turn the yard and kitchen wastes into compost much more quickly. The Needs of the Compost Pile The microbes in the compost pile have three basic needs: 1. Air 2. Water 3. Food Air Composting microbes are aerobic - they cannot do their work well unless they are provided with air. Without air, anaerobic (non-air needing) microbes take over the heap/pile, causing slow decomposition, resulting in the pile smelling like putrefying garbage!
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USING THE COMPOST PRODUCED Compost "Tea" To supply compost nutrients to house/office plants or to spot-fertilize seedlings, Soak an aer-ated bag (similar to a tea bag) or old pillowcase of compost in a pail of water until the liquid is tea-coloured. Or stir one part com-post into three parts water and pour off the "tea." Using this liquid to water plants makes a difference, particularly in the middle of the warm growing season. Of course remove the bags when the compost gets in the soil. Mulch Mulching should be done before summer's heat, to con-serve moisture. Spread several inches of compost on top of the soil around trees and shrubs, from near the base of the trunk out to the drip line. You can also mulch around vege-tables and flowers as soon as the plants are several inches high, to keep roots cool and discourage weeds. Potting Soil Office plants, window boxes and hanging baskets will all benefit from a potting soil mixed with sifted compost. Com-post alone can be used for growing vegetables in contain-ers, and for starting plants from seed. For indoor use, you may want to sterilize compost in the oven for an hour at 95oC (200oF) - but do not be alarmed by the (temporary) strong smell.
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USING THE COMPOST PRODUCED
F inished compost adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil, improving its texture and increasing its ability to hold air and water.
Because it does not burn plant roots, large quantities of compost can be applied to the soil at any time. The following provides information on ways your finished compost can be used. Soil Improvement Plough several centimeters of fin-ished compost into a flower bed or vegetable garden before planting. How much you use will depend on how much you have available. The soil can use it all. You can also give trees, shrubs, and nursery seedlings a good start by planting them in half-and-half soil and com-post. New lawns will develop healthy roots to keep them green, if compost is dug into the soil before the grass seeds are applied. Top Dressing Treating lawns with just over a centimetre of compost serves as a very effective feeding or natural fertilizer when the ground dries during the dry season. Side Dressing You can also apply compost as a spot fertilizer. Apply it lightly into the top several centimetres of soil around the plant that needs a boost, and water deeply.
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THE FUNDAMENTALS OF COMPOSTING
To ensure adequate aeration for the pile and its microbes, it is important to thoroughly break up or mix in any ingre-dients that might mat down and exclude air, such as wet leaves. The pile can also be turned to get air into it, which means completely breaking it apart with a spade or garden fork and then piling it back together in a more 'fluffed-up' condition. Water Ideally, the pile should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge to fit the needs of compost microbes. At this moisture level, there is a thin film of water coating every particle in the pile, making it very easy for microbes to live and disperse themselves throughout the pile. If the pile is drier than this, it won't be a very good microbial habitat, and composting will be slowed significantly. If the pile is a great deal wet-ter, the sodden ingredients will be so heavy that they will tend to mat down and exclude air from the pile, again slow-ing the composting process and, perhaps, creating anaero-bic odour problems. If there are alot of dry components in the pile, such as dry leaves, moisture will need to be added to the pile. Fruit and vegetable wastes generally have plenty of moisture, as do fresh green grass clippings and garden trimmings. Watch out for far-too-soggy piles during wet weather. Also, during dry periods, it may be necessary to water the pile occasionally to maintain proper moisture levels.
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THE FUNDAMENTALS OF COMPOSTING
Food There are two major kinds of food that composting mi-crobes need. 'Browns' are dry and dead plant materials such as dry brown weeds, dry leaves, and wood chips or sawdust. These items are a source of energy for the compost mi-crobes. Because they tend to be dry, browns often need to be moistened before they are put into a compost system. Paper is also a good source of energy. 'Greens' are fresh (and often green) plant materials such as green weeds from the garden, fruit and vegetable scraps, green leaves, coffee grounds and tea bags, fresh horse manure, etc. Greens are a good source of nitrogen which is a critical protein source for the billions of multi-plying microbes. Approximately equal amounts of browns and greens is the best nutritional balance for the microbes. This mix also helps to control aeration and the amount of water in the pile. Separating Waste For successful composting, ministries/agencies will need to begin to separate waste. Organic waste from kitchens, grounds etc. will need to be separated from other wastes and moved to the compost heap.
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TROUBLESHOOTING COMPOSTING PROBLEMS
PROBLEMS CAUSES SOLUTIONS
Smells like rancid butter, vinegar or rotten eggs
Not enough oxy-gen, or the pile is too wet or com-pacted
Mix up the pile so that it gets some aeration and can breathe. Add course dry materials like leaves to soak up excess moisture. If the smell is too bad, add dry materials on top and wait until it dries out a bit before you mix the pile.
Odour like ammonia Not enough car-bon
Add brown materials like leaves, organic hurricane rubble (such as fallen trees etc after a hurricane), shredded newspaper, etc
Attracts rodents, flies, or other ani-mals
Inappropriate materials (like meat, oil, bones), or other food-like material (e.g. fruit peel-ings) is too close to the surface of the pile
Bury kitchen scraps near the center of the pile. Do not add inappropriate ma-terials to compost.
Attracts insects, mil-lipedes, slugs, etc.
This is normal composting, and part of the natu-ral process
Not a problem
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TROUBLESHOOTING COMPOSTING PROBLEMS
M aking compost is quite easy, but having too much of a certain material or letting the compost get too wet or too dry can cause problems. The Table
below provides information on common problems, causes and solutions.
PROBLEMS CAUSES SOLUTIONS
Damp and warm only in the middle of the pile
Pile could be too small
If you are only composting in piles, make sure your pile is at least 3 feet high and 3 feet wide.
Nothing is happen-ing. Pile does not seem to be heating up at all
1. Not enough nitrogen 2. Not enough oxygen 3. Not enough moisture 4. Compost is finished.
1. Make sure you have enough nitrogen rich sources like manure, grass clippings or food scraps. 2. Mix up the pile so it can breathe. 3. Mix up the pile and water it with the hose so that there is some moisture in the pile. A completely dry pile doesn't compost.
Matted leaves or grass clippings are not decomposing
Poor aeration, or lack of moisture
Avoid thick layers of just one material. Too much leaves, paper or grass clip-pings do not break down well. Break up the layers and mix up the pile so that there is a good mix of ma-terials. Shred any big mate-rial that is not breaking down well.
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SELECTING THE COMPOSTING SITE
S electing the location for composting often depends on function and aesthetics. In terms of appearances and good relations with clients and neighbours, you
probably will not want to place the pile at the entrance of your ministry/agency or on its front lawn. Additionally, any pile of organic matter will eventually rot, but a well-chosen site can speed up the process. Step 1: Look for a level, well-drained area. Do not put the pile far away that you can neglect it. Step 2: Shelter the pile in a shady spot so it does not dry out too quickly. Step 3: Build the pile over soil or lawn rather than concrete or asphalt, to take advantage of the earth-worms, beneficial microbes, and other decomposers which will migrate up and down as the weather changes. Uncov-ered soil also allows for drainage. Step 4: Look for a spot that allows you to compost discretely, espe-cially if you have neighboring offices/yards in close prox-imity. Aim for distance and visual barriers between the pile and the neighbours. Keep the site protected from animals such as dogs, cats and goats.
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THE INGREDIENTS FOR A COMPOST HEAP
L ike any recipe, the compost heap relies on the right ingredients to make it work. Almost any organic mate-rial is suitable for a compost heap/pile.
The heap needs a proper ratio of carbon-rich materials, or "browns," and nitrogen-rich materials, or "greens." Among the brown materials should be dried leaves, and wood chips. Nitrogen materials include fresh or green, such as grass clippings and kitchen scraps. Mixing certain types of materials or changing the proportions can make a difference in the rate of decomposition. Achiev-ing the best mix is more an art gained through experience than an exact sci-ence. The ideal ratio approaches 1 part browns to 1 part greens. Judge the amounts roughly by equal weight. Too much carbon will cause the pile to break down too slowly, while too much nitro-gen can cause odour. Leaves represent a large percentage of total yard waste. If they are ground or shredded or mowed over, they will re-duce in size making them easier to store until they can be put in the heap. Once smaller, they will decompose faster. Leaves are loaded with minerals brought up from the tree roots and are a natural source of carbon. Grass clippings break down quickly and contain as much nitrogen as manure. Since fresh grass clippings will clump together, become anaerobic, and start to smell, mix them with plenty of brown material. If you have a lot of grass clip-pings to compost, spread them on the driveway or other sur-face to bake in the sun for at least a day.
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THE FINISHED PRODUCT—THE COMPOST
C ompost is finished when it is a dark, rich colour, crumbles easily, and you are unable to pick out any of the original ingredients. It should also have an
earthy smell. If the compost is too stringy or lumpy, it may need more time. If this is the first time you have tried making compost, keep in mind that the amount of time can really vary. In Ja-maica’s hot climate it can take anywhere from 1 to 3 months to produce compost. Decomposition depends on a number of things including temperature, the type organic matter you used, site of compost pile, how fine the waste material was chopped, and how often the pile was turned.
For many outdoor garden applications, it can be fine to use compost that still has a few recognizable bits of leaves or other material - it will finish rotting in the soil. However, if you plan to use compost in seed-starting mixes, the com-post should be well-finished because seedling roots may be attacked by decomposer microbes if the roots contact unfinished compost.
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BUILDING AND MANAGING THE COMPOST HEAP
KEY POINTS TO REMEMBER
1. Use equal amounts of "greens" and "browns” 2. Mix together a variety of ingredients 3. Shred or chop all ingredients, if possible 4. Build the pile large enough to retain heat 5. Turn or aerate the heap regularly to let in the air 6. Keep the pile as moist as a damp sponge 7. Whenever you add a food scrap layer, make sure
you sprinkle it with soil and then cap off with a brown layer to prevent odours and discourage-flies.
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THE INGREDIENTS FOR A COMPOST HEAP
Once the grass begins to turn pale or straw-like in colour, it can be used without danger of souring. Avoid grass clippings that contain pesticide or herbicide residue, unless a steady rain has washed the residue from the grass blades. Garden refuse should also be included in the compost heap. All of the spent plants, thinned seedlings, and dead flowers can be included. Office waste, primarily paper and cardboard can be in-cluded in the compost heap. They should however be shred-ded. Colored paper and glossy paper should be excluded. Much Kitchen refuse including fruit and vegetable peelings such as melon rinds, carrot peelings, ground provision peelings (yam, coco), tea bags, etc. is good for the compost heap. Egg shells are a wonderful addi-tion, but decompose slowly, so they should be crushed. However, some things should be left out of the compost pile. Not to be Included: No cooked vegetables, no meat, no dairy products, no peanut butter or salad dressing no diseased plants, and definitely no dog droppings or cat litter. Putting these in the pile can create problems. Meat scraps and the rest will decompose eventually, but will create strong odours and at-tract pests. Non-biodegradable materials such as plastics, metals and glass should also be left out of the compost pile.
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THE INGREDIENTS FOR A COMPOST HEAP
Manure is one of the finest materials that can be added to any compost heap. It contains large amounts of both nitro-gen and beneficial microbes. Manure for composting can come from bats, sheep, ducks, pigs, goats, cows, pigeons, and any other vegetarian animal. As a rule of thumb, you should avoid manure from carnivores (meat-eating ani-mals), as it can contain dangerous pathogens. Most ma-nures are considered "hot" when fresh, meaning it is so rich in nutrients that it can burn the tender roots of young plants or overheat a compost pile, killing off earthworms and friendly bacteria. If left to age a little, however, these materials are fine to use. Manure should be layered with carbon-rich brown materials such as leaves to keep the pile in balance. REMEMBER: All additions to the compost pile will decompose more
quickly if they are chopped up a bit before adding to the compost heap.
The list of organic materials which can be added to the compost heap is long. The following table provides a par-tial list of common materials that can be used for compost-ing.
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BUILDING AND MANAGING THE COMPOST HEAP
The Composting Timetable The temperature of the pile should rise steadily, peaking between 50 and 65 degrees Celsius (120 F to 150 F). Twenty-four hours to one week later, when the tempera-ture begins to drop, the compost is ready for turning. Break up any clumps of material, and move the outside parts to the base and centre. If the pile is too dry, this is the time to wet it. Cover the pile again, and wait. The temperature should peak again in about a week, in a pile made of well-shredded materials. (Remember, the smaller the pieces, the faster the com-post.) As soon as it begins to cool, turn the pile once more. In another week or two, the compost should be finished; that is, dark and crumbly, fresh-smelling, with very little of the original material identifi-able. When compost is ready for use, the temperature of the pile won't rise above 43 degrees Celsius (110 F) no matter how often you turn it.
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BUILDING AND MANAGING THE COMPOST HEAP
When a compost pile is not heating up, the problem is al-most certainly one of three things: a) the pile is too small b) it is too dry c) it needs more "greens" or, a "starter" to give it more
nitrogen Compost Starters Garden suppliers sell compost starters or "activators," of-ten composed of high-nitrogen fertilizers. In some cases, "inoculants" of dehydrated bacteria are also used as com-post activators. There are also several effective organic alternatives: finished compost, or well-composted manure, for example... or you can simply rebuild the compost pile with additional grass clippings or other "green" materials. Compost Activators A compost activator contributes either high nitrogen, mi-croorganisms, or both, and provides a quick boost to the decomposition process. You "jump start" your compost by adding aged manure, or compost starter. Step 6: Add new materials on an ongoing basis to an already es-tablished pile. Turn, turn, turn. This introduces air and gets the pile heating up again. Mix older materials with newer materials for faster decomposition. It is also possible to have two heaps—consider starting a new one if the first one is advanced and compost is near in the making.
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THE INGREDIENTS FOR A COMPOST HEAP
The chart below lists common materials for composting.
TYPE OF MATERIAL USE IT? ADDITIONAL INFOR-MATION
Algae, seaweed Yes Good nutrient source
Ashes from charcoal No May contain materials bad for plants
Beverages, kitchen rinse water
Yes Good to moisten the mid-dle of the pile. Do not over-moisten the pile.
Bird droppings Careful May contain weed seeds or disease organisms
Cardboard Yes Shred into small pieces if you use it. Wetting it makes it easier to tear. If you have a lot, consider recycling instead.
Cat droppings or cat litter No May contain disease or-ganisms. Avoid.
Coffee ground and filters Yes Worms love coffee grounds and coffee filters
Dog droppings No Avoid
Dryer lint Yes Contains moisture
Eggshells Yes Break down slowly. Crush-ing helps
Fish Scraps No Can attract rodents and cause the pile to develop offensive odours
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THE INGREDIENTS FOR A COMPOST HEAP
TYPE OF MATERIAL USE IT? ADDITIONAL INFOR-MATION
Hair Yes Scatter it so that it is not in clumps
Manure (horse, pig, sheep, goat, chicken)
Yes Great source of nitrogen. Mix with carbon rich mate-rials such as brown leaves so that it breaks down bet-ter.
Meat, fat, grease, oil, bones
No Avoid
Milk, cheese, yoghurt Careful Put it deep in the pile so that it does not attract ani-mals
Newspapers and other plain paper
Yes Shred it so it breaks down easier. Avoid use of col-oured paper.
Leaves (green) Yes Shredding leaves help them break down easier
Sawdust and wood shav-ings
Yes Do not use too much and don’t use treated wood
Weeds Careful Dry them out before use
Branches and twigs, fruit and vegetable peelings
Yes Chop up branches and twigs
Yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides
No Might kill beneficial com-posting organisms
Non– biodegradable ma-terials (aluminium foil, plastics, glass, metals, Styrofoam containers)
No These materials will not break down
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BUILDING AND MANAGING THE COMPOST HEAP/PILE
Step 3: Layer 15 cm (6 inches) of well-watered "browns" and 15 cm of "greens," mixing the two layers together. Step 4: Alternate and mix layers of each type of material, adding water as needed, until the pile is at least one meter (3 feet) high. Adding the material in layers simply helps you judge the right proportions of "brown" and "green." But every-thing should then be thoroughly combined or mixed to compost efficiently. Moisten each layer as you stack the pile. Step 5: Cover the pile with a thin layer of soil to protect it from heavy rain and vermin then wait. Turn the pile weekly to thoroughly mix the materials. Turning allows for thorough decomposition and speeds up the composting process. Continue to cover with soil as necessary.
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BUILDING AND MANAGING THE COMPOST HEAP/PILE
Step 1: Gather both "green" and "brown" ingredients, enough to make a compost heap measuring at least 1 cubic metre, that is 3 feet in each direction (high, wide and long). Use equal amounts of "greens" and "browns." It may be useful to consider starting a new heap after the first heap is well underway in the decomposition process. A smaller pile will not generate or re-tain enough heat. If you choose the ap-propriate ingredients to compost, and keep pets and pests out, there's no reason for concern. A much larger pile is more likely to compact, will shut out air, and is more dif-ficult to work with. Step 2: Chop or shred into small pieces as much of the material as possible. Dry materials like leaves can be run through a shredder or under a lawn mower. Shredded materials make a better home for decomposer organisms, with more surface area for them to work on. A shredded pile is also better insulated, has more pockets for air and retains mois-ture more easily. The finer the pieces -- the faster your compost will be finished.
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COMPOSTING METHODS
C omposting can be performed by a variety of meth-ods. These include:
1. Placing Materials in Open Piles—Compost Heaps/Piles
Compost piles should be at least 1 cubic yard in size. Note that food scraps must be covered with at least 6 inches of soil to discourage animals and in-sects from gaining access to the mate-rials. 2. Burying Materials in Pits or Trenches Materials can be buried in holes or trenches and allowed to decay naturally. This is a useful way of composting food scraps. 3. Enclosing Materials in Drums or Bins (e.g.
holding bins, turning bins, and worm bins) Composting units or bins can be constructed from inex-pensive materials with little carpentry or masonry skills. Bins can also be purchased at garden centres and through garden supply catalogues. GOJ Ministries and Agencies can choose anyone of the methods above.
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COMPOSTING METHODS
Worm Composting or Vermicomposting Worm composting can be accomplished in bins or pits and adapted for indoor or outdoor composting. It can be ideal for small land areas or those with no land space who want to derive some of the benefits of composting and reduce waste. Worm bins are easy to construct and can be adapted to accommodate the food scraps generated within an organization's lunchroom or cafeteria. Indoor methods involve placing red worms (not earthworms or field worms typically found in gardens) in a bin containing shredded newspaper and garden soil. The worms consume their own weight in food each day. Once the worms are established in the bin, they will degrade fruit and vegetable scraps as well as coffee grounds added to the bin.
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BUILDING AND MANAGING THE COMPOST HEAP/PILE
c omposting involves various activities, ranging from turning the heap occasionally to a major commit-ment of time and energy. If the heap is properly
managed, finished compost can appear in 3-4 weeks. The speed with which finished compost is produced is de-termined by whether materials are chopped up, how they are mixed together, amount of moisture and the tempera-ture. The decomposition rate increases with the decrease in size of the composting materials. If you want the pile to decay faster, chop up large fibrous materials. Shredded organic materials heat up rapidly, decompose quickly, and produce a uniform compost. Layering is traditional, but mixing the materials works just as well. New materials can be added to the heap on an ongoing ba-sis to an already established pile. The temperature of the heap is important - it indicates the activity of the decompo-sition process. The easiest way to track the temperature inside the pile is by feeling it. If it is warm or hot, every-thing is fine. If it is the same temperature as the outside air, the microbial activity has slowed down and you need to add more nitrogen (green) materi-als such as grass clippings, kitchen waste, or manure. The following provides step-by-step directions for building your compost heap.
Composting...makes everyday Earth Day
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THE BENEFITS OF COMPOSTING • Control or suppression of certain soil-borne plant
pathogens • Supply of significant quantities of organic matter • Improvement of cation exchange capacity (CEC) of
soils and growing media, thus improving their ability to hold nutrients for plant use
• Supply of beneficial micro-organisms to soils and grow-ing media
• Improvement and stabilization of soil pH
Cation exchange capacity is used as a measure of fertility, nutrient retention capacity, and the capacity to protect groundwater from cation contamination (Wikipedia Free Encyclopedia)
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THE BENEFITS OF COMPOSTING
A s more and more compost is produced and utilized, the benefits of using compost have become more evident and measurable. Because of its many attrib-
utes, compost is extremely versatile and beneficial in many applications. Compost has the unique ability to improve the properties of soils and growing media physically (structurally), chemically (nutritionally), and biologically. To the Soil Compost does several things to benefit the soil that syn-thetic fertilizers cannot do. First, it adds organic matter, which improves the way water interacts with the soil. In sandy soils, compost acts as a sponge to help retain water in the soil that would otherwise drain down below the reach of plant roots. In this way, it protects plants against drought. In clay soils, compost helps to in-crease the porosity (tiny holes and passageways) of the soil, making it drain more quickly so that the soil does not stay waterlogged or dry out into a brick-like substance. Compost also inoculates the soil with vast numbers of beneficial microbes (bacteria and fungi) and enhances the habitat that the microbes need to live in. These microbes are able to extract nutrients from the organic part of the soil and eventually pass the nutrients on to plants.
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THE BENEFITS OF COMPOSTING To Plants Compost can: • Suppress plant diseases and
pests • Reduce or eliminate the need for
chemical fertilizers • Promote higher yields of agri-
cultural crops To the Environment Compost can: • Reduce the volume of waste sent to landfills • Reduce the demand for water • Reduce the need for fertilizers • Remove solids, oil, grease, and heavy metals from
stormwater runoff • Capture and destroy 99.6 percent of industrial volatile
organic chemicals (VOCs) in contaminated air • Facilitate reforestation, wetlands restoration, and habi-
tat revitalization efforts by amending contaminated, compacted, and marginal soils
To the Pocket Using compost can reduce the need for water, fertilizers, and pesticides. It serves as a market-able commodity and is a low-cost alternative to standard landfill cover and artificial soil amend-ments. Composting also extends municipal landfill life by divert-ing organic materials from land-fills. Composting will also reduce the amount of money ministries and agencies will have to pay for the disposal of their waste.
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THE BENEFITS OF COMPOSTING To Human Health Compost contains valuable nutrients that could replace and/or supplement use of chemical fertilizers. Use of chemical fertilizers can therefore be cut down to a mini-mum. Use of chemical fertilizers, particularly when the user does not use appropriate gear has been linked to various types of cancers. It is also well known that chemical fertiliz-ers lead to contamination and pollution of water supplies. Saves Time • Compost makes plants grow faster, bigger, and
stronger. • Using compost as a mulch reduces the need for weed-
ing and watering gardens General Benefits of Using Compost • Improvement in the soil structure, porosity, and den-
sity, thus creating a better plant root environment • Increase of moisture infiltration and permeability of
heavy soils, thus reducing erosion and runoff • Improvement of water-holding capacity, thus reducing
water loss and leaching in sandy soils • Supply of a variety of macro and micronutrients
Into: Clean rich soil
Convert: food scraps, coffee grounds, tea bags, grass cuttings, leaves and other plant parts plants
