Commodore’s Corner — Len Dignard - Flagler Beach Yacht ...flaglerbeachyachtclub.com/newsletter/fbyc_newsletter_2014-jul.pdf · Latitude 29.28 Official Publication Of The Flagler

Official Publication Of The Flagler Beach Yacht Club, Inc.

July 2014

PAST COMMODORES 1992-1993 Tom McBride

1994 Ed Finney

1995-1996 Tom Johns

1997-1998 Denis Thornton

1999-2000 John Darrow

2001 Paul Van Buren

2002 Howard Graves

2003 Pat Slattery

2004 George Barnett

2005 Pete Poole

2006-2007 Mike Cocchiola

2008 Claudia Towne

Hello to everyone, I hope you are all enjoying our Florida

summer, I know Carol and I are. Now that the snow and ice

have gone away, I know many of you are making trips up

north. Please be safe in your travels.

Mantanzas Steak Bake

Another incredibility successful and fun club event. We ad-

vertise this as our most popular on water event of the year

and it lived up to its’ billing. A dozen or more boats and more

than sixty people were in attendance. The steaks were better

than any of our local steak houses in the area. Folks, the lo-

gistics of this undertaking is massive and requires a large number of volunteers. My

Commodore and Cook hats go off to Kate and Chris and all the volunteer members, for

pulling this entire operation together. A tremendous amount of work but always worth

the efforts. Thanks to everyone involved.

Membership Dues

Our annual membership dues cycle is all but over and while the final count is not in,

it appears, we are losing very few of our current members. That is terrific news, we

must all be doing something right since we are keeping a very large percentage of our

membership. With that, I expect we’ll make only a small dent in our applicants wait-

ing list.

Commodore’s Corner — Len Dignard

2009 Jane Gaulding

2010 Dee Cocchiola

2011 Rich Franco

2012 Greg Hansen

2013 Randy Meyer

[email protected] 386-206-4143

Latitude 29.28 Longitude 81.08

Inside this Issue

Vice Commodore 3

Maritime 5

Refrigeration 7

Anchoring 8

Birthdays 11

Rear Commodore 4

Ship Store 12

Events

Events

13

14

Continued on Page 2

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Latitude 29.28 Official Publication Of The Flagler Beach Yacht Club, Inc. Longitude 81.08

Commodore - Continued

Election of new Club Officers

Can you believe it, our club year is half over which requires us to kick off our annual election cycle.

As you know our Club members can always be counted on to step up and help in any manner needed. At

our last meeting, I asked for volunteers for our Club’s Election Committee. To date, I have three people

who have stepped forward. Russ Jones, Kate Nelson and Nancy Epstein. The committee may consist of 3 to

5 members, so if you are interested in joining the committee OR becoming a Board member in any capac-

ity, contact anyone of these individuals.

Election Schedule;

- July 1 - commence search, solicit and nominate candidates.

- Sept - Publish slate of candidates in the Newsletter and notify members via email. At September General

Meeting, confirm the slate.

- Oct - Accept nominations from the floor at the General Meeting from voting members present. If any

nominations are received, they validate eligibility and publish a revised slate to the membership by Nov

1st.

- Nov - November General Meeting, elections take place.

We’ll keep you posted as the process progresses.

The 4th of July Parade and Picnic

Rich Franco assures me all plans are in place, the float is designed and the picnic plans are all set. The

Parade starts at 10:00 AM and Rich is waiting for the parade float position assignment to send out a blast

as to where to meet and when. The after parade picnic will be at Carol’s and my house starting around

12/12:30 PM.

See you there!

Page 3


Vice Commodore — Bob Jaeger

[email protected] 386-446-9110

hanks go out to Mark & Danielle Pierro and their Hot Diggity Dog committee (Carol Sposato,

Jeanne Meyer, Carol Triano, Dottie Cohen, Dotty Schamis, Den & Pam Miller, Zee Pierro) for the

scrumptious dogs, beans, coleslaw and chili at our June general meeting. And yes, Rich Franco

still holds the record for downing 7 of those bad boys!!

Dave and Sue Smith are planning a big HOE DOWN BBQ for our July monthly meeting. Be sure to dress

in you Western attire (but leave the chewing tobacco home)!! Rumor has it that there will be a Wild West

sheriff patrolling our meeting looking for varmints, vagabonds and miscreants to throw in the pokey!! Be

warned!! Make sure you bring someone to bail you out of jail just in-case the sheriff

catches you with some ‘firewater’!

Mark your calendar: Take Me Out To The Ball Game - Saturday, August 9th

Daytona Cubs game. We will meet for supper (all you can eat, beer & soft drinks

@ $27 per person) in the bull - pen area at 5:30 PM. Game starts

around 7:05 PM. Please be sure to sign up at the July monthly meeting if you haven’t

already. If you are interested in tak- ing your boat down to the game, contact PC Dee Coc-

chiola for details. Guests are wel- come! A minimum of 30 is required to secure the bull

-pen area. The deadline for reservations and payment is July 31.

Just a reminder that there will be NO monthly meeting in August. Be sure to check out the calendar on

our website for upcoming events.

Also, mark your calendar: Thursday September 4th at 5:00 PM – Under the 100 Bridge at the

Betty Steflik Pavilion for the September Commodore’s Social. A $5 check per member will be

collected from the membership and returned when you arrive at the event; in other words, it’s

FREE!!! Guests will be charged $15. Woody’s BBQ will be catering the event. So that we can get an ac-

curate count, please sign-up at our July meeting, or contact me.

Bob Jaeger, Vice Commodore

Page 4


Rear Commodore - Joe Linholm

MEMBERSHIP

We have made it through half the year already, where does the time go??

I hope as you read this you all have had a safe and enjoyable Fourth of July holiday.

Patty and I had a three week, 5,900 mile adventure in June that took us to Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota,

Colorado then back to Illinois and then home. We got to see our kids and grandkids, friends kids get mar-

ried, both of our younger daughters get engaged and our future son-in-law graduate from college. We are

very proud and very happy to be back in the Sunshine State.

Enough about us!!

Some discrepancies were identified in the membership lists on the website and they have been corrected. If

you have a chance, please look on line and make sure your information is correct.

July should be a busy month as far as membership goes. We should have a few vacancies due to members

not renewing their memberships. The board will be reviewing the waiting list and approving the pending ap-

plications according to the date the application was received.

Please get out and enjoy a safe boat ride.

Joe

Page 5


Fleet Captains Chris and Mike

1-The Matanzas Steak Bake was held on June 20, 2014, with over sixty people in attendance. I could be

mistaken but I believe this is the largest steak bake we have had. Our thanks go out to all who assisted in

making this event a success: from Kate Nelson, lead for this event, to all the cooks, supply, and support

staff that make this laborious event possible. A special thanks to Mark and Danielle for the use of their

pontoon boat to provide transport between the mainland and Rattlesnake Island.

2- The next event will be the July 4, 2014, boat trip to St. Augustine. This appears to be an “every boater is

on their own” as some people are going on the 3rd, and some on the 4th. If you know someone who is going

give them a call and buddy up for safety’s sake.

3-The next event will be the boater’s trip to Loggerhead Marina/Caribbean Jacks

on August 15, 16 and return on the 17th. Please use the maritime sign-up sheet

at our next monthly meeting for those coming by boat. Fill out the information on

the sheet or call Mike Triano directly with this information as soon as possible.

The sooner he has this information the sooner he can try to have the boats

grouped together. Slips will cost $2.02 a foot and we have the use of the pool and

hot tub. We can have our own drinks by the pool but they cannot be in glass con-

tainers. There is entertainment every night and a dance floor is available.

For those coming for supper on the 16th at 5.00 p.m. please sign the dinner

only sheet for that as soon as possible. Seating is limited to about 60 people.

Please contact Mike at 447-2962 or email him at [email protected]

4-The next event in September is the Astor pontoon trip on September 20th. The total number of FBYC

members allowed will be 50, and it will be on a first paid first to go. Guests will not be considered until

members have been accommodated. We will meet at 1000hrs. at the Astor Bridge Marina, 1575 West

Continued next Page

Page 6


Fleet Captains Chris and Mike

Highway 40, Astor, FL 32102. It takes approximately 1 hour to get there from Flagler Beach.

There will be a sign-up sheet at the next monthly meeting. The cost for this event is $20.00 per person and

checks should be made out to the FBYC and either given to Chris at that time or be sent to Avalon Avenue,

Flagler Beach, FL 32136. The names of all persons you are paying for should be noted with your check.

The restaurant is located at the marina and we will eat immediately upon our return from boating. You are

responsible for bringing your own libations.

Some of us will be renting a room at the marina for the night. The rooms are dated but clean and they are

giving us a discount on the room, and the bar is next door with another restaurant/bar across the river.

We are obtaining a group of rooms directly on the river with picnic tables to hang out at. The approximate

price is $90.00 per night. If interested you may contact the motel directly at: 386-749-4407; Elaine and

Mike Thompson are the managers. Mention that you are with the Flagler Beach Yacht Club.

Any other questions concerning this event, contact Patrick Tooker, the lead for this event.

Page 7


Marine Refrigeration

Roger Hellyar-Brook

Soundings, July 2014

A great deal of our comfort aboard relies on the refrigeration cycle. Cold beer, ice cubes and a dehu-

midified, cool cabin are all possible thanks to the working of the vapor compression refrigerator. Fish

lockers, ice machines, wine coolers and air conditioners all rely on the same principles.

A compressor is driven by an electric motor or engine power, and it compresses a refrigerant gas that is

selected for its temperature range. The hot, compressed gas goes to a condenser that removes heat by

flowing air or water across tubing. (Water is more efficient but requires a pump and plumbing.) As heat

is removed, the vapor changes state to a high-pressure liquid and flows to the next major component: a

metering device. This can be an expansion valve—think of a carburetor for refrigerants—that is very re-

sponsive to temperature changes; a simple skinny tube, called a capillary; or a pressure-sensitive valve.

These are selected by the manufacturer for different performance characteristics (temperature and

pressure), depending on the application. They all do the same thing, which is to allow a limited amount of

refrigerant liquid to boil into vapor as the pressure changes on the low side. The metering device causes

this pressure differ- ential by only allowing a small amount of refrigerant into the

evaporator. This change of state in the refrigerant absorbs heat and carries it

away in the now gaseous refrigerant. Evaporators can look like the finned radia-

tor of an air condi- tioner, a stainless steel fish cooler or a holding plate in an ice-

box. It’s the cold part of the system. The gas now flows back to the compressor

to start the cycle again. It’s the change of state in the refrigerant that performs

the work, and maintenance is required to ensure that all components work well in the system.

Condensers have to be cleaned and have enough water or air to carry away heat efficiently, and evapo-

rators need to be ice-free and have circulation to absorb enough heat. Clean air

conditioning filters and screens and make sure evaporator fins are straight to provide

maximum airflow. Defrost heavily iced freezer and refrigerator units. A complete

system is a well-balanced unit, and poor maintenance can result in overloaded com-

pressors and major component damage.

Page 8


Anchoring Made Easy

A lot of us typically boat from one dock to another and don’t really give anchoring much thought, but it is a

necessary skill to have for everyone. Anchoring is really simple if you have the proper equipment and cer-

tain bits of important information.

Select the Right Anchor

There are several different types of anchors. Nevertheless, there are certain very important attributes you

should keep in mind when selecting an anchor. Will it set quickly, and hold in a variety of different bottom

types? Can it withstand significant loads? Is it easy to deploy and retrieve, and is it easy to store?

An anchor is a significant piece of safety equipment. Look for quality construction features such as heavy

duty components, strong materials, strong welds, and quality galvanizing. You should have at least one

heavy anchor for each type of bottom you expect to anchor on. Actually, you should have more than one

depending on the bottom conditions, and you will need two (bow and stern) in tight anchorages.

There are essentially three categories of anchor. First, there are those with deep penetrating, lightweight,

pivoting flukes such as the Danforth or the Fortress. These anchors are reported to have the greatest hold-

ing power per pound of any style of anchor. Second, there are the plow-style anchors such as the Bruce,

Delta, CQR, Spade and Max. These have excellent structural strength, but do not penetrate as deeply into

the seabed as fluke-style anchors. On the other hand, they tend to set more easily due to increased weight.

Finally, there are specialty anchors for specific bottom types. No single anchor design is best in all condi-

tions. Thus, a critical consideration when selecting an anchor will be the bottom conditions in the areas

you want to visit. In fact, studies suggest that the selection of a suitable bottom for anchoring is a much

more critical factor than the design of the anchor.

Sand is relatively easy for anchors to penetrate. Most anchors will hold best in hard sand. The Danforth

and Fortress anchors work very well in sand. Mud, on the other hand, has low sheer strength, and requires

an anchor with a wider shank-fluke angle and greater fluke area so that the anchor will penetrate deep to

where the mud has greater sheer strength. Mud is frequently thin and layered over some other material.

Thus, anchors that can penetrate through the mud to the underlying material will hold better. Fortress an-

chors work very well in mud, because they can be converted to a broad fluke angle.

Rock and coral bottoms present different challenges. Here, holding power is more dependent on where you

happen to drop the anchor, than on the type of anchor you have. Plow-shaped or grapnel-type anchors

generally work best. These include the Bruce, CQR, Delta, or Yachtsman. Shale, clay and grassy bottoms

present tough challenges for all anchor designs. Here, it is the weight of the anchor, more than its design

that is the most important factor. CQR, Delta anchors, and Yachtsman anchors are able to penetrate the

vegetation. However, be careful of a "false-set" as it is possible the anchor has caught on roots or other pro-

trusions rather than something solid.

Continued Next Page

Page 9


Anchoring Made Easy

Now that I have an anchor, what do I attach it to?

Anchor rode on pleasure boats generally consists of three strand nylon line with a short length of galva-

nized chain. Nylon is used because it stretches thus reducing the load on your anchor. Chain is used be-

tween the anchor and the nylon line for abrasion resistance, and to keep the pull on the anchor shank

more parallel to the seabed. Experts recommend that the amount of chain be equal to at least one-half to

one full boat length, and of a diameter equal to one half that of the nylon line.

Setting the Hook

The best anchorage offers a good holding bottom, suitable depth, and protection from wind, waves and

passing craft. Setting your anchor properly is critical to holding your boat in place. Follow these steps to

anchor your boat:

1. Select an area of little current, protected from the weather, preferably with a flat bottom. The area

should be well upwind of where you want the boat to end up. Make your approach slowly into the wind or

current. Look at other boats in the anchorage and follow their lead in using either a single anchor or bow-

and-stern anchors. Determine where their anchors lie so you will not foul them, and select a position that

will allow you to swing with the wind or current without bumping into other boats.

2. Prepare Your Crew. Nothing marks a novice as much as yelling orders at your crew. A briefing before-

hand will let your crew know what you expect of them, as well as help you to sort out the anchoring proce-

dure in your own mind. Keep a pair of work gloves aboard to protect their hands from the rode and chain,

as well as from mud or seaweed that may come up with the anchor.

3. Be Courteous. If you are not sure how a nearby boat is anchored or where their anchor lies, cruise past

and ask them. It's much better to find out now, before you have to re-anchor in another location.

4. Don't Splash. Never throw the anchor over the bow: it is a sure way to both tangle your anchor and

mark yourself as an amateur. And be sure that the boat has stopped all forward motion before lowering the

anchor, or you could tangle your propeller.

5. When at the spot, stop the boat, and check that the boat will be free to swing in all directions. Slowly

lower the anchor over the bow to the bottom, and then slowly back the boat away, downwind or down cur-

rent.

6. Once the hook is on the seabed, put your engine in reverse until you feel the hook dig in. Back up stead-

ily, paying out anchor rode until you reach the predetermined scope. Let out about seven to ten times as

much line as the depth of the water, depending on the wind strength and wave size. Scope is the ratio of

the amount of anchor line paid out to water depth plus freeboard. Anchors hold best when the pull on the

anchor is parallel to the bottom. More line paid out also increases shock absorption by the anchor line. An-

choring experts recommend 7:1 scope when possible. Using a larger anchor or more chain to lower the an-

gle of pull will compensate for shorter scope. Continued Next Page

Page 10


Anchoring Made Easy

7. Tie off the line around a bow cleat, and pull on the anchor to make sure it is secure. After anchoring, check

your position with local landmarks. While at anchor, recheck these landmarks periodically to make sure you

aren't moving. Most GPS units have an alarm that will alert you if the boat moves. Be sure to use it if you are

going to sleep aboard at anchor.

8. Periodically check connecting knots on your anchor line. When possible, use splices instead of knots. Knots

weaken a line more than splices Remember, when anchoring overnight, you must turn on an anchor light. Also,

never anchor or otherwise obstruct passage through channels or areas such as launching ramps or any other

high traffic areas.

Follow these guidelines when retrieving your anchor.

1. Always retrieve your anchor into the boat before leaving the area.

2. To retrieve the anchor, move the boat over the anchor while pulling in the line. Pulling the anchor straight up

should break it free. If the anchor is stuck, turn your boat in a circle while under power.

3. When the anchor breaks loose, stop the boat, and retrieve the anchor. Never drag the anchor behind the boat.

A Few Extra Reminders

Wind determines the overall force on an anchoring system. Larger boats present greater resistance to wind,

which in turn causes a heavier pull on the anchor and rode. Sizing anchors based upon conservative wind ve-

locities is foolish because you cannot run out and buy the next size up when the wind starts blowing hard. It is

recommended that you size your anchor to withstand heavy weather.

Make sure you inspect your entire anchor system frequently for chafe, loose shackles, and bent flukes. The sys-

tem is only as reliable as its weakest component.

Store at least one anchor so that it can always be used immediately. Even the strongest anchor will not do you

any good if you cannot deploy it. Quickly deploying even a small anchor can keep you from going aground.

Be aware that the boat will swing down wind or current from the anchor. Allow "swing room" for any change in

wind or current!

Since anchoring can be an emergency procedure, store the anchor and its lines in an accessible area. Use the

anchor immediately to avoid drifting aground if the engine breaks down.

Anchoring is one of the most important skills to master if you plan to cruise from one area to another. Since

there is rarely any need to rush, use the same slow, cautious approach to anchoring that you use when docking.

With a little preparation and practice, you'll be the one enjoying the pina colada in the cockpit watching others

as they anchor.

Attributed to: LT/C Larry Golkin, AP SEO, Ventura Sail and Power Squadron

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Page 13


Matanzas Steak & Bake

Page 14


Hot Diggety Dog

Page 15


Commodore

Len Dignard

386-206-4143

[email protected]

Vice Commodore

Bob Jaeger

386-446-9110

[email protected]

Rear Commodore

Joe Lindholm

386-445-1793

[email protected]

Fleet Captains

Chris Nelson

386-693-4331

[email protected]

Treasurer

Linda Jaeger

386-446-9110

[email protected]

Secretary

Patty Lindholm

386-445-1793

[email protected]

Board Members

Randy Meyer

Jeanne Meyer

Denise Green

FBYC— OFFICERS

Documents

Commodore’s Corner — Len Dignard - Flagler Beach Yacht ...flaglerbeachyachtclub.com/newsletter/fbyc_newsletter_2014-jul.pdf · Latitude 29.28 Official Publication Of The Flagler