College of Engineering HuskyADAPT: Accessible Design & Play Technology University of Washington

Stevens Way, Box 352600 Seattle, WA 98195 USA

206-54305090

Climbing Higher 

Catherine Newton, Psychology & Communication Ruby Davis, Human Centered Design & Engineering Jenny Lee, Human Centered Design & Engineering

Mentored by Dr. Dianne Hendricks and Dr. Kat Steele

Need Expert: Alex Jones, Outdoors for All

June 7, 2019

Executive Summary Rock climbing has become a very popular recreational sport for people, especially in the Pacific Northwest. In the past few years, several large efforts have been made to make rock climbing more adaptive in order to assist people with physical disabilities, so they can also experience the joys of rock climbing. However, not many adaptive climbing solutions have been explored for individuals with cognitive disabilities. In collaboration with Outdoors for All, a nonprofit organization that delivers adaptive recreation for people with disabilities, our team has spent the past six months exploring the design challenge of creating an adaptive climbing solution for adults with cognitive disabilities. After consulting with a few needs and rock climbing experts, we have identified several design objectives. The design should be fun and age-appropriate for adults, provide opportunities for people to celebrate small successes, and should also be easily implemented at any climbing gym facility. Keeping those design objectives in mind, we went through the design process, an iterative method to help us improve our design with user feedback. This report documents our design process, the final solution in the design of adaptive climbing wall for individual with cognitive disabilities and recommendation for the next steps in this project.

The Challenge Outdoors for All is a nonprofit organization that facilitates adaptive recreational programs for people with disabilities. Their challenge to us was to create more adaptive climbing opportunities for climbers with cognitive disabilities. These disabilities are often “invisible” and consequently overlooked in modern adaptive rock climbing spaces. While current adaptive climbing solutions for climbers with physical disabilities have dramatically increased the accessibility of rock climbing spaces, it is time for climbers with cognitive disabilities to enjoy similar access and enrichment. Rock climbing not only requires physical strength but also mental skills such as focus, attention span, problem-solving and communication. For this reason, we feel adaptive climbing solutions should be created for individuals with cognitive disabilities, so they also have the opportunity to gain the numerous benefits that come with rock climbing, such as confidence building, strength building, and problem solving skills.

Point of View Statement People with cognitive disabilities need more inclusive and user-friendly rock-climbing walls because everyone should have the opportunity to reap the physical benefits of strength and endurance as well as the mental benefits of confidence and problem solving. A summary of a few of these pre-existing solutions can be found in the table below.

# Name Pros Limitations

1 Transfer Bench Allows climbers to take the first step onto the wall

Heavy, not “a part of” the actual climbing wall

2 Larger Climbing Holds Easy first step, easier to hold onto Limited space

3 Climbing Partners + Partner Routes

Teamwork, extra support + motivation

Communication could be difficult

4 Beanie Babies & Candy Fun and engaging; motivating, guiding tool

Not age appropriate for adults and difficult placement

5 Slanted Stone Climbing Wall

Rope to assist, less steep Outdoors, very different from most rock climbing facilities

The Solution Over the past two quarters, our team has produced two solutions for our challenge. The first are thermochromic rock climbing holds that change color when touched or activated by warmer temperatures. This solution allows rock climbers to see their hand marks on climbing holds after gripping the hold, all while climbing. To create these, we mixed different colored thermochromic

pigment (pictured below) into white paint and painted the thermochromic paint onto pre-existing holds from the IMA’s Crags Climbing Center. After drying, we were able to touch the hold, leaving our handprint marks behind on the hold. This solution allows climbers to track their progress and to keep track of which holds they have climbed on. This assists climbers who have difficulty remembering what holds they grabbed on to; it also serves as a way for climbers to progressively track their accomplishments. The climbing holds are also visually appealing because they are different colors and change colors as people hold onto them. This motivates climbers with cognitive disabilities who may initially be intimidated or unmotivated to climb. Watching them change colors, also allows climbers with cognitive disabilities better focus on their climbing routes. Our second solution is an Adaptive Climbing Manual composed of previous adaptive climbing solutions for people with cognitive disabilities as well as adaptive climbing solutions we developed over the course of this class. We organized our different solutions into five different categories: (1) Adaptive Climbing Walls, (2) Motivators, (3) Trackers, (4) Directors, and (5) Climbing Assist Tools.

The Process

Research At the beginning of our project, we conducted research to better understand the current state of the problem space and the needs of the climbers themselves. In the first few weeks of our project, we reached out to local climbing experts at the Crags climbing center on the University of Washington campus and tried rock climbing for the first time. Later, we completed a literature review of prior solutions and of the needs of climbers with disabilities. As it is important to involve stakeholders in the design process, we launched a survey to gain insight and to connect with climbers with disabilities. We received 21 responses describing personal experiences with sports, rock climbing, and cognitive disabilities. We also met with Aspiring Youth, a local organization dedicated to providing enrichment experiences for children with autism or ADHD. This allowed us to further develop our understanding of our direction and design requirements.

Ideation We held several brainstorming sessions to come up with possible solutions to the problem space we defined during the research phase. During these sessions, we employed ideation strategies such as concept sketching, 15-minute idea generation sprints, and group conversational brainstorming. While sketching and sprints did help us generate some ideas, our most successful ideas were conceptualized during organic conversations among the team.

Once we had put together a list of ideas, we needed to pick a single direction in order to develop a prototype. We decided to seek feedback on some of our preliminary prototype ideas by soliciting feedback in Red Square. We set up a table, displayed our prototype ideas, asked passers-by to fill out surveys, and conducted impromptu informal interviews. This guerilla testing style of feedback-seeking proved to be very effective, and we were able to obtain enough information to know which prototype ideas participants found the most helpful. This feedback steered our design direction towards thermochromic holds.

Prototyping Our first prototype was 3D printed. To begin prototyping our thermochromic rock climbing holds, we purchased thermochromic PLA filament to use with a 3D printer. We then 3D printed a rock climbing hold to demonstrate our concept and test the physical interaction of touching the hold. Unfortunately, the 3D printed hold was not structurally sound enough to endure the rigorous use it would see in an active rock climbing gym. In addition, it was difficult to regulate the texture of the hold. Our next set of prototypes were created by painting holds using a mix of acrylic paint and thermochromic pigment. After experimenting with a painting directly onto the holds, we tried using an outdoor paint primer, a different brand of thermochromic pigment, and multiple colors of thermochromic pigment. These prototypes were significantly more visibly responsive to touch than our first attempt, as the pigment was more sensitive and the color change was more dramatic. Unfortunately, the pigment turned out to be a little too sensitive; at the adaptive climbing event we held, the gym space was warm enough for the holds to remain permanently activated. In future iterations, we would need to find pigment with a higher activation temperature.

Evaluation To gain feedback on our designs and to better connect with the climbing community, we hosted an adaptive climbing event at Crags climbing center. We set up our thermochromic holds in the gym and also displayed our adaptive climbing manuals to showcase our other solutions. To get feedback on our designs, we asked event attendees to fill out surveys and provide verbal feedback. We also set up pages of our manual on the wall and asked participants to place dot stickers on the designs they would find most useful.

The Future In future implementations, we would like to iterate our thermochromic hold prototypes to have more consistent temperature change. Currently, the ambient temperature of the room greatly affects whether or not the hold’s thermochromic properties will be effective. We would like to test different brands of thermochromic pigment to see how we can solve this issue. We would also like to experiment with adding the pigment into the polyurethane resin that holds are made of to avoid needing to paint holds.

References

“Adaptive Climbing Wall,” Everlast Climbing. [Online]. Available: https://everlastclimbing.com/products/adaptive-climbing-wall. [Accessed: 18-Mar-2019].

Appendices Part 1: Images of Prototypes

Thermochromic Pigment we used that was later mixed into white paint

Prototype 1: 3D printed hold using thermochromic filament

Prototype 2: climbing hold painted using thermochromic paint

(materials: thermochromic pigment, tempera paint)

Prototype 3: climbing hold painted using thermochromic paint

(materials: thermochromic pigment, paint primer, and acrylic paint)

Figure 4. This table displays user feedback from the tabling event we hosted. Participants were asked to rank the different prototype ideas we displayed from 1 (most helpful) to 5 (least helpful). These scores were synthesized into an Average, Mode, and Median in

order to help us select a direction to move forward with during the prototyping phase. Part 2: Resources for Materials Used

● Prototype 1: Color Changing with Temperature 3D Printer PLA Filament,From Purple Blue to Pink,1.75 mm, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, 1KG Spool(2.2LBS), 3D Printing PLA Material CC3D

○ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074T8TGL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

● Prototype 2: Thermochromic Temperature Activated Pigment Powder (Blue) ○ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPTLKG3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_

o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ● Prototype 3: ATLANTA CHEMICAL ENGINEERING Temperature Activated

Thermochromic Color Changing Powder Pigments Multicolor Pack ○ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBH24IF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o

00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Part 3: Adaptive Climbing Manual

Adaptive Climbing for People with Cognitive Disabilities HuskyADAPT | June 2019

Table of Contents Introduction 3

Project Background 3

Adaptive Climbing Walls 4 Slanted Climbing Walls 4 Everlast Climbing Wall 5

Motivators 5 Stuffed Animal or Candy Motivators 6 Bell at the top of the climbing wall to signal success 6

Trackers 7 Use Dot Stickers (or Sticky Tak) 7 Thermochromic Holds 8

Figure 10. Thermochromic pigment which may be mixed into paint. Perfect for multiple kinds of DIY projects—including thermochromic rock climbing holds. 9

Sequin “Mermaid” Fabric 10

Directors 11 Laser Pointer 11 Light-Up Rock Climbing Route 12

Climbing Assist Tools 13 “First Step” Bench 13 Rope Assist 14

Ladder 15 Easier holds 15

Conclusion 16 About the Authors 16 Acknowledgements 16

Introduction Rock climbing is an incredibly rewarding pastime for people of all ages. However, rock climbing spaces are not always accessible to people with cognitive disabilities. These disabilities are often “invisible” and consequently overlooked in modern adaptive rock climbing spaces. While current adaptive climbing solutions for climbers with physical disabilities have dramatically increased the accessibility of rock climbing spaces, it is time for climbers with cognitive disabilities to enjoy similar access and enrichment.

Rock climbing not only requires physical strength but also mental skills such as focus, attention span, problem-solving and communication. For this reason, we feel adaptive climbing solutions should be created for individuals with cognitive disabilities, so that everyone has the opportunity to participate and gain the numerous benefits that come with rock climbing, such as confidence building, strength building, and even problem solving skills.

This manual describes various accessibility solutions we discovered or developed throughout this project. We have separated these solutions into five categories: climbing walls, motivators, trackers, directors, and climbing assist tools. We hope that rock climbing gyms may be able to adopt some of these solutions to create more accessible climbing spaces for individuals of all abilities.

Project Background This project began in January 2019 as a part of the University of Washington’s HuskyADAPT class: a course dedicated to bringing students from a variety of disciplines together to develop adaptive solutions for people in the community. The project was sponsored by Outdoors for All, a local nonprofit organization that facilitates adaptive recreational programs for people with disabilities. Their challenge to us was to create more adaptive climbing opportunities for climbers with cognitive disabilities.

Adaptive Climbing Walls Adaptive climbing walls can provide less strenuous alternatives for climbers, decreasing the difficulty and lowering barriers for new climbers.

Slanted Climbing Walls

Figure 1. An outdoor slanted rock climbing wall made from real rock. Climbers may attach themselves to a rope system for safe climbing. This particular climbing area may be found at Magnuson Park in Seattle, WA.

Figure 2. A lofted bed with a small slanted rock climbing wall for children to climb up to the bed area. A child is climbing up the wall with assistance from a parent.

Slanted climbing walls may be less intimidating, safer, and less strenuous for beginner climbers. Consider incorporating these kinds of walls into new gyms to create an easier starting point for new climbers. Purchasing free-standing wall segments with adjustable incline levels may also provide further opportunities for transitioning new climbers into traditional gym environments.

Everlast Climbing Wall

Figure 3 and 4. These two images depict the Everlast accessible rock climbing wall, which includes easy

steps onto the wall, handle-like holds, and a whiteboard backing for easy route marking.

This wall, originally designed for younger climbers, includes holds that are easier for climbers to hold onto while climbing. The horizontal rock climbing wall makes rock climbing feel less intimidating for new climbers. Having horizontal boards mounted to the bottom of the wall provides more physical support for climbers. It also includes a whiteboard surface which could be used to add instructions for climbers as well as color-coded holds. *Full climbing wall unit can be purchased online*

Motivators Motivators are rock climbing tools use to encourage climbers to climb. They may provide tactile, visible, or audible goals that motivate climbers to get to the top of a given route and share their success.

Stuffed Animal or Candy Motivators

Figure 5. In the two images above, stuffed animals are sitting on top of rock climbing

holds or hanging from rock climbing holds. The stuffed animals are being used to motivate people climbing on this rock climbing route.

Placing stuffed animals (Beanie Babies have been used in the past) or candies on top of the holds on climbing walls serve as extrinsic motivators for climbers. It can also make climbing more fun by turning it into a game of “how many candies (or stuffed animals) can I collect while climbing?”

How to use:

● Collect motivators (candy, stuffed animals, etc.) ● Place on top of different holds of climbing route. ● (tip: place on top of larger holds, so the motivators do not fall.

Bell at the top of the climbing wall to signal success

Figure 6. This climber is approaching the top of their roped climbing wall, where a small orange bell has

been affixed to the apex.

With a bell at the top of the wall, climbers can proudly ring the bell once they reach the top of the route. It provides climbers with an end goal while they are climbing. Additionally, it provides climbers with a great sense of achievement once they are able to reach the bell. How to use:

● Hang or attach a bell at the top of each climbing route.

Trackers Trackers are tools to allow climbers to better visualize their progress on a rock climbing route. They may help climbers see where they have been or where they need to go.

Use Dot Stickers (or Sticky Tak)

Figure 7. Dot stickers arranged by color on sticker sheets. Dot stickers may be found online or at any

office supply store.

Placing sticker dots on climbing holds allows climbers to keep track of their route while climbing. This is also a great way to see the whole route you have climbed once you have finished climbing it. Dot stickers (and sticky tak) - when using different colors - can also be used to indicate easy versus difficult routes. For example, a red sticker could indicate a harder hold to grab onto or a bad route for beginners whereas a green sticker could indicate a good route to start with or an easier hold to grab onto. The climber, while climbing, could also place a red/green sticker on a hold if they thought that hold was easy/hard to grab onto. This allows climbers to personalize their route and allow them to see which holds work for them and which do not. * Super affordable on Amazon!

How to use:

● Collect dot stickers or sticky tak. ● Put dot stickers or sticky tak in climbing pouch, pant pocket, or somewhere easy to reach

while climbing. ● While climbing, place dot sticker or piece of sticky tak on climbing hold to indicate

easy/hard route or to simply track which holds you have used in your climbing route.

Thermochromic Holds

Figure 8. This thermochromic slate appears black until it comes in contact with body heat

from a person’s hands. When touched, the slate reveals a colored diagram.

Figure 9. This 3D-printed rock climbing hold is made from thermochromic PLA filament. The

hold is purple until it is touched, leaving a bright pink handprint

A thermochromic hold will change color when climbers grip it, leaving handprint marks that are fun, visually appealing, and useful for tracking the climber’s progress. In addition, climbing mentors may view the handprints left on holds to critique climbers’ grip placement technique. Thermochromic holds can also increase climber engagement, as the tactile experience of touching the hold to create a visual reaction may improve focus and attentiveness in easily distractible climbers.

Thermochromic holds may be achieved in multiple ways:

1. Paint a hold ● Mix thermochromic pigment with white paint and use on pre-existing holds in your

rock climbing gym.

Figure 10. Thermochromic pigment which may be mixed into paint. Perfect for multiple kinds of DIY

projects—including thermochromic rock climbing holds.

How to paint your own holds. 1. Purchase thermochromic pigment, and white acrylic paint. 2. Clean your hold and let it dry. 3. Mix the two together, per the instructions included with the thermochromic

pigment. (We found that about a teaspoon mixed with enough paint to cover a medium-sized hold was sufficient.)

4. Paint the surface of the hold with two to three coats depending on the intensity of the hold’s original color.

5. Let dry and test. 6. Repeat with as many holds as your desired route requires. 7. Mount holds onto the wall and have fun!

2. Make your own hold

Add thermochromic pigment to resin and sand in order to create sturdy, industrial-grade holds that change color when touched. We recommend layering the pigment as close to the surface of the hold as possible in order to maximize the color-changing potential on the outside of the hold. Consider modifying this tutorial to create your own thermochromic hold: https://www.camp4.com/make-climbing-holds/

Figure 11. Clay molds filled with polyester or epoxy resin to create new and original holds.

Sequin “Mermaid” Fabric

Figure 12. Sequin fabric—also known as “mermaid” fabric. One side of the sequins reveals a rainbow

pattern. When flipped the opposite direction, the sequins are silver.

Sequin fabric may be used to indicate progress or other information when strips are affixed next to holds on a wall. When sequins are all flipped one way, they will be displayed as a single color—possibly indicating that a climber has not yet reached a given hold. While on the wall, a climber can touch the fabric to flip it the other way, exposing a new color and indicating that the climber has reached that hold.

Sequin fabric may also be used to create a game by taping or gluing the fabric at the top of a climbing route. The first player flips the sequins one way for their color, and the other player will flip the sequins back for their color. Sequin fabric may be purchased for $20 a yard at Joann Fabric.

Directors Directors serve as guides for people while they are climbing. While attempting a more complex route, climbers may need assistance determining which hold to grab next or what direction to move while climbing.

Laser Pointer

Figure 13. A cat chasing a laser pointer on the carpet. The laser pointer pictured is pen-sized

and may be activated with the simple press of a button.

Have a friend or climbing partner hold the laser while you are climbing. They will point the laser on the climbing wall. By using the laser, they will be able to help guide you on your route. Using the laser, your partner will also be able to help you find a hold if you are not able to locate one while climbing.

Light-Up Rock Climbing Route

Figure 14. A rock climbing wall which uses lights to highlight the holds included in a given route. The user

may select which route is highlighted using a smartphone.

Light-up holds can be a very effective director, as they are both easy-to-see and visually engaging. Lights may be used to highlight a specific route, as shown in the figure above, or to highlight a single specific hold for the climber to grab onto. Although effective, light-up holds can be expensive and difficult to implement in all rock climbing gyms, as they are not easily incorporated into pre-existing rock climbing gyms.

Climbing Assist Tools These tools can create easier transitions for new climbers who may not have the dexterity or stamina for more advanced climbing.

“First Step” Bench

Figure 15. A metal bench which may be moved to provide easier access to sections of wall at climbing gyms. Sturdy and easily movable.

Taking the first step while climbing can frequently be the hardest part about rock climbing. Using a bench (as pictured above) is a great tool to use to assist you in taking the first step onto the rock climbing wall and getting your foot on the first hold. How to use:

● Place bench or stool directly in front of and against rock climbing wall ● Step onto bench and search for nearest hold to put your foot onto

Rope Assist

Figure 16. A person is using a rope to climb a short vertical wall.

Figure 17. A sketch of a rock climbing wall with a rope and ladder to assist climbers through tricky sections of the route.

Figure 18. A short slanted rock climbing wall with a rope down the center.

Some climbers may get stuck or intimidated while attempting a climbing route. Adding an extra rope that runs parallel to their route may provide additional options while climbing. If stuck, climbers can use the rope as an extra “hold” option to get them through a tricky section of the route. Climbers can also use the rope for assistance to come down from a climbing route, especially if it is really high up.

Ladder

Figure 19. A gym with a built-in ladder that runs parallel to the routes on the wall.

Setting up a ladder alongside a vertical climbing route may serve a number of purposes. In partnered climbing, a climbing partner or friend may use the ladder to ascend the wall alongside the climber and provide tips or encouragement. A ladder may also assist the climber directly by providing a place for climbers to take breaks if they get tired mid-climb. The ladder can also serve as a “stepping stool” to facilitate the climber’s first steps onto the wall.

Easier Holds

Figure 20. These holds—known as “jugs”—are curved upwards to provide an protrusion that climbers can

easily hold onto. They are particularly helpful for new climbers.

Providing large, easy holds such as “jugs” can create a more manageable climbing experience for new climbers or climbers who struggle with fine motor control. This can allow climbers more freedom to focus on other aspects of climbing, such as remembering a route sequence or communicating with a teammate.

Conclusion This manual aims to provide a starting point for rock climbing facilities that want to provide more accessible rock climbing experiences for climbers with cognitive disabilities. Our work is certainly not comprehensive; other organizations and facilities are sure to have implemented solutions we were unable to find during our six-month research project. We hope that our work can kickstart a more widespread discussion of the ways that rock climbing can be made more accessible to people of diverse abilities—both physical and mental.

About the Authors Ruby Davis is a UX researcher and soon-to-be graduate from the University of Washington’s Human-Centered Design & Engineering bachelor’s degree program. Ruby has a passion for accessible design and informal learning communities. Catherine Newton is a Psychology & Communication double major at the University of Washington. Catherine is interested in creating more accessible solutions for people through her passion for design. Jenny Lee is a Human-Centered Design & Engineering Master’s students at the University of Washington. Jenny has a genuine interest in improving accessibility through research and co-design.

Acknowledgements We would like to acknowledge the mentorship, feedback, and resources provided by our instructors Dianne Hendricks, George Zatloka, and Kat Steele throughout our HuskyADAPT course. In addition, we received significant assistance in this project from our Outdoors for All sponsor, Alex Jones, who shared key advice, insight, and resources with us over the course of the last six months. Nathan Page, a lead route setter and climbing program manager at the University of Washington’s on-campus climbing center, was also very helpful to us in sharing the climbing space, his climbing resources, and his knowledge with us as we delved into prototyping and hosting our end of year showcase event. We also received highly useful insight from the local organization Aspiring Youth, whose perspectives on adaptive climbing helped us better understand the needs of climbers with cognitive disabilities. Finally, we would like to extend a

huge thank you to all the individuals who assisted us in our research while exploring and iterating on our adaptive solutions.

Without the help of these individuals and organizations, this project would not have been possible. Thank you all so much for your amazing assistance and support!